The Inca Trail - It's a Long Way Down
Jan 13th, 2012, 04:01 PM
#21
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Mlgb - a lot of rafting companies tell you to jump in the river. It was the "jump back in the raft" that caught us by surprise. It is hard to jump when your rafting suit is filled with 50 pounds of water.
Boots - we talked to the guides a lot about why there were not more world class Peruvian runners, a la Kenya, Ethiopia etc. Some of the porters and guides and many young people were extraordinarily fit.
On the other hand, two observations we made in other parts of Peru - there were very few female drivers (we saw one in 15 days) and much of the population seemed to be overweight. I have since found that the obesity rate in Peru is about half that of the US. It semed much "larger" than that in Lima.
Boots - we talked to the guides a lot about why there were not more world class Peruvian runners, a la Kenya, Ethiopia etc. Some of the porters and guides and many young people were extraordinarily fit.
On the other hand, two observations we made in other parts of Peru - there were very few female drivers (we saw one in 15 days) and much of the population seemed to be overweight. I have since found that the obesity rate in Peru is about half that of the US. It semed much "larger" than that in Lima.
Jan 13th, 2012, 05:45 PM
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I am just finding your trip report after I was alerted to it today, cold. I am loving all the details; this was so adventurous of you considering your fear of heights in particular. The Inca trail just seemed so arduous to me that I didn't do it.
The rafting is a blast, isn't it?!! I am so glad you got to experience it. They told me that it was class 4 and 4+ the day I did it but your description sounds just the same. Better than any roller coaster, imo.
Can't wait to follow along for the rest of your adventures...
The rafting is a blast, isn't it?!! I am so glad you got to experience it. They told me that it was class 4 and 4+ the day I did it but your description sounds just the same. Better than any roller coaster, imo.
Can't wait to follow along for the rest of your adventures...
Jan 13th, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Cmc - Maybe we should have an ass slider GTG. We could start at the top of the Eiffel Tower. IBT - She's fine. Until she reads this report.
NCounty I have read a lot of people say that seeing Machu Picchu is more rewarding if you have hiked there. I am not sure. We were so focussed on hiking that after four days I would have gladly hiked right by MP if anyone had suggested it. By then we were explorers, not tourists. That would make a nice t-shirt.
NCounty I have read a lot of people say that seeing Machu Picchu is more rewarding if you have hiked there. I am not sure. We were so focussed on hiking that after four days I would have gladly hiked right by MP if anyone had suggested it. By then we were explorers, not tourists. That would make a nice t-shirt.
Jan 13th, 2012, 06:40 PM
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The Inca Trail starts at 8,923 feet above sea level. Day 1 ended at the Ayapata campsite which is at 10,829 feet. Allowing for the downhill sections we probably climbed about 2600 feet that day. That is not that big a climb at sea level but is a challenge at altitude.
When we arrived at camp the porters had everything set up. Tents were ready, popcorn was being served and even beer was available as some entrepreneurial locals had hiked over with a few cold ones. The weather was perfect. Looking back down the mountain was encouraging. We had climbed a long way.
Our guides introduced our porters, who were invited to say a few words in Quechua. Most seemed painfully shy which is understandable. They then handed out the dumbest looking yellow clown hats for us to wear. Apparently this was in celebration of New Years. Looking at the pictures now we really do look like dorks.
I had probably read about 150 Inca Trail trip reports on the web. Many people mentioned that they ate very little during the hike. That had seemed strange to me given the level of exertion. But whatdoyaknow – dinner was served and I didn’t want to eat. Conversely, DS1 felt better and joined the others in the eating tent. For 15 minutes. He then rushed out and vomited again. He and I were both in bed by 7pm.
Our two guides, taking note of my wife’s slow pace, suggested that we start out early the next day, as in about 5:30am. In the trip reports I had read this was standard practice. Send the slower hikers out early in an attempt to keep the entire group within an hour or two of each other. And day 2 was to be the hardest day. It started with a climb of 3000 feet followed by a sharp descent and then another climb of 1500 feet. It did not take any convincing for us to agree to the plan.
One bit of good news was that the temperature that night did not fall below about 40 degrees. Sleeping at freezing or below can be difficult and we had been warned to expect near freezing temperatures. In fact it was a rather nice night for a snooze. And so many stars in arrangements us northerners had never seen.
The other bit of good news was that none of felt the need to use the squat toilets. Over the course of the hike it turned out that any day we did not use a squat toilet was a good day for everyone else in the group as well.
When we arrived at camp the porters had everything set up. Tents were ready, popcorn was being served and even beer was available as some entrepreneurial locals had hiked over with a few cold ones. The weather was perfect. Looking back down the mountain was encouraging. We had climbed a long way.
Our guides introduced our porters, who were invited to say a few words in Quechua. Most seemed painfully shy which is understandable. They then handed out the dumbest looking yellow clown hats for us to wear. Apparently this was in celebration of New Years. Looking at the pictures now we really do look like dorks.
I had probably read about 150 Inca Trail trip reports on the web. Many people mentioned that they ate very little during the hike. That had seemed strange to me given the level of exertion. But whatdoyaknow – dinner was served and I didn’t want to eat. Conversely, DS1 felt better and joined the others in the eating tent. For 15 minutes. He then rushed out and vomited again. He and I were both in bed by 7pm.
Our two guides, taking note of my wife’s slow pace, suggested that we start out early the next day, as in about 5:30am. In the trip reports I had read this was standard practice. Send the slower hikers out early in an attempt to keep the entire group within an hour or two of each other. And day 2 was to be the hardest day. It started with a climb of 3000 feet followed by a sharp descent and then another climb of 1500 feet. It did not take any convincing for us to agree to the plan.
One bit of good news was that the temperature that night did not fall below about 40 degrees. Sleeping at freezing or below can be difficult and we had been warned to expect near freezing temperatures. In fact it was a rather nice night for a snooze. And so many stars in arrangements us northerners had never seen.
The other bit of good news was that none of felt the need to use the squat toilets. Over the course of the hike it turned out that any day we did not use a squat toilet was a good day for everyone else in the group as well.
Jan 14th, 2012, 04:07 AM
#32
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SM - you know I hate writing anything longer than 4 words. This is torture. Ncounty I hope I don't think of squat toilets the next time I throw a curling rock. That would ruin the ice.
In case it’s not coming across we really were having a good time. For an outdoors person hiking the Inca Trail is like an artist visiting the Louvre or a Catholic visiting the Vatican. It’s just that we were vomiting in the Sistine Chapel and in front of the Mona Lisa. No big deal.
Day 2 was my focal point of the trip. I had watched a hundred YouTube videos of people reaching Dead Woman’s Pass (13,779). It was to be our “summit of Everest” moment. The surprising news in the morning was that DS2 would set out early with Mom and Dad. He wasn’t feeling well. So after a very quick breakfast at 5:15 the three of set out with Marcelito, our assistant guide. There was really no need for Marcelito to come with us as it would be hard to get lost. But there is a calmness and supportiveness about the guides. They have the ability to help people through tough moments. And no one wants to let their guide down.
The first 1500 feet up was through a very pretty forest, much of it following a cascading creek. Very beautiful. On the other hand when you see water rushing down at you you know it is coming from somewhere higher than you. Much higher. The trail was a series of steep switchbacks. We would come to a switchback and turn hoping to see a level path for awhile. Didn’t happen. More steps and more steps and more steps. Some of them with a good 12-18 inch rise.
Twice DS2 told Marcelito that he had to have a bowel movement. Twice Marcelito told him he would find him a good spot. We were not sure what constituted a good spot. It was just nice to be able to stop for a second and rest. And crapping in the woods was not an issue as the trail itself was littered with Llama crap.
Finally after a couple of hours we came to LLulluchapampa, another of the camping spots and a very beautiful area. I am going from memory here but this seemed to mark the trail’s transition from forest to open mountain. I am not sure we were above the tree line but if there were trees I don’t recall them. By now the other members of the group had caught up to us. We all took a few minutes to rest, play with the llamas and gaze up the remaining 1300 feet at our target - Dead Woman’s Pass.
Once again my wife and I left our resting spot a bit earlier than the others. It was only a matter of minutes before the Belgiums passed us and then the Irish. The Belgiums were both smokers but incredible climbers. The Irish had not acclimatized at all, but they were relentless climbers as well. And DS2, after his forest bowel movements, was feeling better. So he took off with the leaders.
I should have mentioned that during day 1 I had taken most of the contents of my wife’s daypack and put them in mine. That included two large plastic bags of medications that must have weighed 8-9 pounds. And the guides both offered to carry her remaining daypack much of day 2. Those guys are heroes. They didn’t ask. They would often just pick up her pack and swing it over their shoulders. It helped her a lot.
The one difference with the remaining climb up to the pass was that aside from the Belgiums/Irish and our two sons, no one rushed by us. This was a steep climb, with hikers from our group and other groups all around us. It probably took another two hours to get to the top. Step, step, step … all with the pass clearly visible the entire time.
So let me emphasize again that while it may not sound like it we were having a good time. It’s just that if there was a disappointing moment to the hike, reaching the pass was it. I had hoped to get a picture of the family at the top. But the weather had turned cold and rainy. Raul had told the faster hikers not to wait at the top for the rest of us as they would freeze. So by the time we got there our three kids were gone (DD was just a few steps ahead of us). It was miserable weather. And I wasn’t sure my wife could complete the trip. So the supposed highlight moment of the trip wasn’t a cheery moment. Having said this, we could still look around and be amazed at what we saw. It may not have been Everest but it sure felt like it.
Here's a 20 second video of what the pass looks like (not us):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iksPPJuHtr4
In case it’s not coming across we really were having a good time. For an outdoors person hiking the Inca Trail is like an artist visiting the Louvre or a Catholic visiting the Vatican. It’s just that we were vomiting in the Sistine Chapel and in front of the Mona Lisa. No big deal.
Day 2 was my focal point of the trip. I had watched a hundred YouTube videos of people reaching Dead Woman’s Pass (13,779). It was to be our “summit of Everest” moment. The surprising news in the morning was that DS2 would set out early with Mom and Dad. He wasn’t feeling well. So after a very quick breakfast at 5:15 the three of set out with Marcelito, our assistant guide. There was really no need for Marcelito to come with us as it would be hard to get lost. But there is a calmness and supportiveness about the guides. They have the ability to help people through tough moments. And no one wants to let their guide down.
The first 1500 feet up was through a very pretty forest, much of it following a cascading creek. Very beautiful. On the other hand when you see water rushing down at you you know it is coming from somewhere higher than you. Much higher. The trail was a series of steep switchbacks. We would come to a switchback and turn hoping to see a level path for awhile. Didn’t happen. More steps and more steps and more steps. Some of them with a good 12-18 inch rise.
Twice DS2 told Marcelito that he had to have a bowel movement. Twice Marcelito told him he would find him a good spot. We were not sure what constituted a good spot. It was just nice to be able to stop for a second and rest. And crapping in the woods was not an issue as the trail itself was littered with Llama crap.
Finally after a couple of hours we came to LLulluchapampa, another of the camping spots and a very beautiful area. I am going from memory here but this seemed to mark the trail’s transition from forest to open mountain. I am not sure we were above the tree line but if there were trees I don’t recall them. By now the other members of the group had caught up to us. We all took a few minutes to rest, play with the llamas and gaze up the remaining 1300 feet at our target - Dead Woman’s Pass.
Once again my wife and I left our resting spot a bit earlier than the others. It was only a matter of minutes before the Belgiums passed us and then the Irish. The Belgiums were both smokers but incredible climbers. The Irish had not acclimatized at all, but they were relentless climbers as well. And DS2, after his forest bowel movements, was feeling better. So he took off with the leaders.
I should have mentioned that during day 1 I had taken most of the contents of my wife’s daypack and put them in mine. That included two large plastic bags of medications that must have weighed 8-9 pounds. And the guides both offered to carry her remaining daypack much of day 2. Those guys are heroes. They didn’t ask. They would often just pick up her pack and swing it over their shoulders. It helped her a lot.
The one difference with the remaining climb up to the pass was that aside from the Belgiums/Irish and our two sons, no one rushed by us. This was a steep climb, with hikers from our group and other groups all around us. It probably took another two hours to get to the top. Step, step, step … all with the pass clearly visible the entire time.
So let me emphasize again that while it may not sound like it we were having a good time. It’s just that if there was a disappointing moment to the hike, reaching the pass was it. I had hoped to get a picture of the family at the top. But the weather had turned cold and rainy. Raul had told the faster hikers not to wait at the top for the rest of us as they would freeze. So by the time we got there our three kids were gone (DD was just a few steps ahead of us). It was miserable weather. And I wasn’t sure my wife could complete the trip. So the supposed highlight moment of the trip wasn’t a cheery moment. Having said this, we could still look around and be amazed at what we saw. It may not have been Everest but it sure felt like it.
Here's a 20 second video of what the pass looks like (not us):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iksPPJuHtr4
Jan 14th, 2012, 04:16 AM
#34
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In case I forget to mention it later, our guide Raul said at one point "adventure travel isn't for everyone". While it was an obvious point, it really clicked with us. This was adventure travel. It wasn't supposed to be easy. Feeling queasy and tired was part of the plan. The plan was working.
Jan 14th, 2012, 04:32 AM
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After reading about all of the vomiting I thought, "They are so lucky that no one had the trots!". Oh well!!
With all of the loss of fluids and exertion, how did you manage to stay hydrated?
And cold, is your wife still talking to you?
With all of the loss of fluids and exertion, how did you manage to stay hydrated?
And cold, is your wife still talking to you?
Jan 14th, 2012, 04:49 AM
#36
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STW - one litre bottles of water in our daypacks replenished every four hours or so by the porters. And the odd gatorade. Having said this on Day 1 DS1 drank his and my water forcing us to go dry for awhile.
I heard my wife telling someone yesterday ... it's not like you're out there thinking this is terrible. You're thinking this is amazing. You just feel shittty when you're thinking it.
I heard my wife telling someone yesterday ... it's not like you're out there thinking this is terrible. You're thinking this is amazing. You just feel shittty when you're thinking it.
Jan 14th, 2012, 05:11 AM
#37
Your report makes me feel like I am right there on the trail with you. I came back regretting not doing it; now I realize I made the right decision. I feel for your wife and am in suspense for the rest of the story.
