Pisco Dreams; Nine Days in the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Lima
Nov 6th, 2014, 12:09 AM
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Hi Kathie,
A couple of places we really enjoyed were Encantasq on Choquecasqa in San Blas. Great set menu. For modern Peruvian the renowned Gaston Acurio has a place on Plaza Rejocijo http://www.chicha.com.pe/index.php
If feeling adventurous some of the markets have some great food courts. Wanchaq market was our favourite. A great place for ceviche!
A couple of places we really enjoyed were Encantasq on Choquecasqa in San Blas. Great set menu. For modern Peruvian the renowned Gaston Acurio has a place on Plaza Rejocijo http://www.chicha.com.pe/index.php
If feeling adventurous some of the markets have some great food courts. Wanchaq market was our favourite. A great place for ceviche!
Nov 10th, 2014, 05:58 PM
#83
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Ugh, Kathie, I'm sorry I missed your query. In case you check from there...
In Cusco we ate at Cicciolina, which was really good (chicken liver app, and two of the nightly specials; duck breast and ragu with polenta). Had cocktails at the Museum of Pisco (fun!) and another dinner at Limo (cevichie x 2, sushi rolls, and tuna), right on the main square which was also very good. Had a basic lunch (sandwich and pasta) on our first day at the Baghdad Cafe overlooking the square and it was decent, filling and a fantastic view from the balcony.
Also, chicken soup in the market!
In Cusco we ate at Cicciolina, which was really good (chicken liver app, and two of the nightly specials; duck breast and ragu with polenta). Had cocktails at the Museum of Pisco (fun!) and another dinner at Limo (cevichie x 2, sushi rolls, and tuna), right on the main square which was also very good. Had a basic lunch (sandwich and pasta) on our first day at the Baghdad Cafe overlooking the square and it was decent, filling and a fantastic view from the balcony.
Also, chicken soup in the market!
Jan 18th, 2015, 02:13 PM
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Will I win a prize for "Longest Time Taken to Complete a Trip Report"?
I'm still not done, but I press on...
Cusco:
We didn’t do too much sightseeing in Cusco. First, we only had about a day and a half in the city and second, I pretty much felt like I could not catch my breath the entire time we were there. I found myself really looking forward to getting back to sea level once we returned to Lima. This was a bit odd to me because I didn’t really feel this way at the higher elevations we visited in the Sacred Valley, some of them well over Cusco’s 11,800 foot elevation.
On our first day there we didn’t arrive until mid afternoon, had lunch, then had to deal with a bit of a hotel glitch so all we did was walk around the Plaza de Armas area a bit. We’d wanted to visit some of the churches but many were closed for Holy Week (the week before Easter). Also, we were a bit put off by steep entrance fees to the main Cathedral (almost $10).
Fortunately, the next evening we were able to go inside during a service open to the public and part of the Easter Week celebration of the Stations of the Cross procession. We even got to hear the choir sing which was wonderful.
On day two we visited the central market and the Museo de Sitio del Qoricancha (covered by the bolleto touristico) where we could not take photos inside. Still, it was very interesting to see the history of the Inca there in the small rooms under a park in the city center.
We also walked around the San Blas neighborhood taking in its views and funky vibe and stopping for a beer in a small hostel with a fantastic view. This is a neighborhood filled with youth hostels and hippie kids who have “been out too long” trying to finance their travels by selling woven bracelets laid out on a blanket on the street. I found myself wanting to tell them to take a shower and go home to mama. Yeah, and “get off my lawn!” I kept my mouth shut, don’t worry.
Several times during this trip we found ourselves comparing Peru to Nepal. It wasn’t just the mountains, though yes, that’s a big part, but more of just a feeling. The same type of traveler who goes to Nepal, also goes to Peru. And with that follows the same type of tourism. There are a few streets off the main square which reminded us very much of Kathmandu, filled with travel agencies offering trekking tours, souvenir stalls, places selling hand woven goods, restaurants catering to budget backpackers. Aguas Calientes had some of this too, and in many ways is to Cusco as “Pokhara” is to Kathmandu in Nepal. The only difference is that in Peru you’re close to paying US prices for everything while in Nepal things are still much, much cheaper.
A note on Lodging:
During our stay in Cusco, we spent one night at the Andenes al Cielo and then moved to the Palacio del Inka, an SPG property. In general the Andenes is a decent hotel, but we had too many little things go wrong and decided to cut our stay short and move, using SPG points for our night at the Palacio del Inka. Our room there was quite small, but well appointed and the hotel is in a great location and in a really lovely historic palace building.
Links to the photos for this post:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...-around-cusco/
I'm still not done, but I press on...
Cusco:
We didn’t do too much sightseeing in Cusco. First, we only had about a day and a half in the city and second, I pretty much felt like I could not catch my breath the entire time we were there. I found myself really looking forward to getting back to sea level once we returned to Lima. This was a bit odd to me because I didn’t really feel this way at the higher elevations we visited in the Sacred Valley, some of them well over Cusco’s 11,800 foot elevation.
On our first day there we didn’t arrive until mid afternoon, had lunch, then had to deal with a bit of a hotel glitch so all we did was walk around the Plaza de Armas area a bit. We’d wanted to visit some of the churches but many were closed for Holy Week (the week before Easter). Also, we were a bit put off by steep entrance fees to the main Cathedral (almost $10).
Fortunately, the next evening we were able to go inside during a service open to the public and part of the Easter Week celebration of the Stations of the Cross procession. We even got to hear the choir sing which was wonderful.
On day two we visited the central market and the Museo de Sitio del Qoricancha (covered by the bolleto touristico) where we could not take photos inside. Still, it was very interesting to see the history of the Inca there in the small rooms under a park in the city center.
We also walked around the San Blas neighborhood taking in its views and funky vibe and stopping for a beer in a small hostel with a fantastic view. This is a neighborhood filled with youth hostels and hippie kids who have “been out too long” trying to finance their travels by selling woven bracelets laid out on a blanket on the street. I found myself wanting to tell them to take a shower and go home to mama. Yeah, and “get off my lawn!” I kept my mouth shut, don’t worry.
Several times during this trip we found ourselves comparing Peru to Nepal. It wasn’t just the mountains, though yes, that’s a big part, but more of just a feeling. The same type of traveler who goes to Nepal, also goes to Peru. And with that follows the same type of tourism. There are a few streets off the main square which reminded us very much of Kathmandu, filled with travel agencies offering trekking tours, souvenir stalls, places selling hand woven goods, restaurants catering to budget backpackers. Aguas Calientes had some of this too, and in many ways is to Cusco as “Pokhara” is to Kathmandu in Nepal. The only difference is that in Peru you’re close to paying US prices for everything while in Nepal things are still much, much cheaper.
A note on Lodging:
During our stay in Cusco, we spent one night at the Andenes al Cielo and then moved to the Palacio del Inka, an SPG property. In general the Andenes is a decent hotel, but we had too many little things go wrong and decided to cut our stay short and move, using SPG points for our night at the Palacio del Inka. Our room there was quite small, but well appointed and the hotel is in a great location and in a really lovely historic palace building.
Links to the photos for this post:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...-around-cusco/
Jan 19th, 2015, 05:12 PM
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I'm curious where you were in the Sacred Valley that was at a higher elevation than Cusco? (I also was looking forward to sea level when we got back to Cusco, but my sleeping trouble had occurred on our trek, at well over 12000 ft.)
Jan 19th, 2015, 06:31 PM
#87
Yes I am curious also, locations that are higher than Cusco are not really in the Sacred Valley. Perhaps Kristina is thinking of Chinchero which is a town up in the high plains above the valley of the Urubamba River.
So it would be a bit misleading if others were to read this and think that the Sacred Valley towns such as Urubamba or Ollantaytambo are higher than Cusco.
So it would be a bit misleading if others were to read this and think that the Sacred Valley towns such as Urubamba or Ollantaytambo are higher than Cusco.
Jan 20th, 2015, 07:14 AM
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Ok, mea culpa. Yes, I was thinking of Chinchero which I guess I mistakenly thought was considered part of the general area called the Sacred Valley since we visited it when we stayed there.
Maras and Morey are also right at about the same elevation as Cusco and I felt fine there. But Cusco just left me winded most of the time. perhaps it's because we were at that elevation for longer than just a few hours.
Maras and Morey are also right at about the same elevation as Cusco and I felt fine there. But Cusco just left me winded most of the time. perhaps it's because we were at that elevation for longer than just a few hours.
Jan 20th, 2015, 08:32 AM
#89
I wouldn't normally send someone to visit Chinchero at the beginning of a stay since the whole point of staying in the Sacred Valley (ie in the Valley part) is to acclimate first to lower elevations for a few days. But it seems to be a rather common itinerary for people who spend the night in Urubamba. I guess they see how close it is on a map and think it makes sense.
Unless you are hiking the Inca Trail and need to spend several nights in Cusco ahead of the hike, it's better IMHO to start low in the SV (Ollantaytambo, Pisac town, Urubamba, etc), visit Machu Picchu by tren, and THEN return to Cusco via "the high road", visiting Chinchero and Moray on the way back.
Unless you are hiking the Inca Trail and need to spend several nights in Cusco ahead of the hike, it's better IMHO to start low in the SV (Ollantaytambo, Pisac town, Urubamba, etc), visit Machu Picchu by tren, and THEN return to Cusco via "the high road", visiting Chinchero and Moray on the way back.
Feb 16th, 2015, 04:15 PM
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Here's a little on our food experiences in Cusco, before we move on to Lima.
We ate (and drank!) very well in Cusco. There’s no shortage of decent restaurants and bars, especially those catering to tourists. But don’t feel that you have to spend a ton of money; one of my favorite meals was in the Mercado and cost us all of about $2 for a giant bowl of chicken soup. That said, craft cocktails, especially those with Pisco in them, are available in force on many menus, and go well beyond the pisco sour.
<b>Bagdad Cafe</b>
Address: Portal de Carnes 154, Cusco, Peru
This was our first meal in Cusco, a late lunch, and while it was nothing special in terms of food, it was decent and the view of the main square cannot be beat. Lunch was about $20.
<b>Chicken Soup in the Mercado San Pedro</b>
If you see this woman making chicken soup in the market, eat there. That is all (see photo in linked post at bottom)
Actually, a bit more…There are probably ten stalls in the market selling chicken soup, but hers was the one with the most patrons. That says a lot. There was a wait for a seat on one of the two benches and when two opened up right in front of her, she told someone trying to cut in line to let the tourists sit.
We each got a big bowl of Caldo de Pollo for about $2. The broth is fragrant and flavorful, and the vegetables are cooked in it and pulled out along with whole chickens when tender. Pasta of varying shapes and sizes is dumped into the simmering broth. When you order, she takes a big cleaver and hacks apart the bird, tossing chunks into the bowl with vegetables and a ladle or two of the broth with the pasta.
<b>Limo</b>
Address: Portal de Carnes 236, Cusco, Peru
This place is right on the main square, upstairs, close to the Bagdad Cafe. Same view.
Most of the menu seemed to be fish with an emphasis on sushi. We had octopus ceviche and fish ceviche as well as a sushi roll and an underwhelming tuna entree. My pisco cocktail with fresh basil and cucumber (along with the octopus) was the hit of the evening. Dinner for two with drinks and tip was about $85.
<b>Museo del Pisco</b>
Santa Catalina Ancha 398, Esquina con calle San Agustin Centro Historico, Cusco, Perú
This was a pre-dinner stop but I think we could have sat here all night having cocktails and little bites. The atmosphere was fun and the bartenders were more than happy to talk to us about the different types of Pisco. Great cocktails and a tasty charcuterie platter. Craft cocktails were about $6 each.
<b>Cicciolina Restaurant </B>
Address: Calle Triunfo 393, 2nd Floor, Cusco Phone: (+51) 84 23 95 10
This is one of those restaurants that’s always recommended to tourists who are looking for a fine dining meal in Cusco. I’m happy to say the food did not disappoint. Among the dishes we had were a polenta with mascarpone and meaty ragu, chicken livers with arugula, mango and fennel, and lamb with fava bean, rosemary and bacon puree. Dinner for two with drinks and tip was $80.
Blog post with photos:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...in-cusco-peru/
We ate (and drank!) very well in Cusco. There’s no shortage of decent restaurants and bars, especially those catering to tourists. But don’t feel that you have to spend a ton of money; one of my favorite meals was in the Mercado and cost us all of about $2 for a giant bowl of chicken soup. That said, craft cocktails, especially those with Pisco in them, are available in force on many menus, and go well beyond the pisco sour.
<b>Bagdad Cafe</b>
Address: Portal de Carnes 154, Cusco, Peru
This was our first meal in Cusco, a late lunch, and while it was nothing special in terms of food, it was decent and the view of the main square cannot be beat. Lunch was about $20.
<b>Chicken Soup in the Mercado San Pedro</b>
If you see this woman making chicken soup in the market, eat there. That is all (see photo in linked post at bottom)
Actually, a bit more…There are probably ten stalls in the market selling chicken soup, but hers was the one with the most patrons. That says a lot. There was a wait for a seat on one of the two benches and when two opened up right in front of her, she told someone trying to cut in line to let the tourists sit.
We each got a big bowl of Caldo de Pollo for about $2. The broth is fragrant and flavorful, and the vegetables are cooked in it and pulled out along with whole chickens when tender. Pasta of varying shapes and sizes is dumped into the simmering broth. When you order, she takes a big cleaver and hacks apart the bird, tossing chunks into the bowl with vegetables and a ladle or two of the broth with the pasta.
<b>Limo</b>
Address: Portal de Carnes 236, Cusco, Peru
This place is right on the main square, upstairs, close to the Bagdad Cafe. Same view.
Most of the menu seemed to be fish with an emphasis on sushi. We had octopus ceviche and fish ceviche as well as a sushi roll and an underwhelming tuna entree. My pisco cocktail with fresh basil and cucumber (along with the octopus) was the hit of the evening. Dinner for two with drinks and tip was about $85.
<b>Museo del Pisco</b>
Santa Catalina Ancha 398, Esquina con calle San Agustin Centro Historico, Cusco, Perú
This was a pre-dinner stop but I think we could have sat here all night having cocktails and little bites. The atmosphere was fun and the bartenders were more than happy to talk to us about the different types of Pisco. Great cocktails and a tasty charcuterie platter. Craft cocktails were about $6 each.
<b>Cicciolina Restaurant </B>
Address: Calle Triunfo 393, 2nd Floor, Cusco Phone: (+51) 84 23 95 10
This is one of those restaurants that’s always recommended to tourists who are looking for a fine dining meal in Cusco. I’m happy to say the food did not disappoint. Among the dishes we had were a polenta with mascarpone and meaty ragu, chicken livers with arugula, mango and fennel, and lamb with fava bean, rosemary and bacon puree. Dinner for two with drinks and tip was $80.
Blog post with photos:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...in-cusco-peru/
Feb 17th, 2015, 07:55 AM
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Kristina, did you stay at Museo del Pisco long enough for the music to start? We were seated at a bar table on the main floor and were getting ready to leave when our waiter whispered to me not to leave just yet. We didn't -- and eventually I got roped into joining the musicians (he only picked women, of course LOL) -- I was on cowbell! It's something I'd never ever do at home (more like run in the other direction) but it was fun, and the lead singer was a very Tony Bennett type, who was both charming and very talented.
Mar 3rd, 2015, 06:19 PM
#94
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sf7307- No, we didn't get to see or hear any live music there!
On to Lima!
We only had a day and a half on arrival to Lima from Cusco and we tried to make the most of it. But Lima is much larger than we expected and getting around isn’t that easy unless you rely on taxis, we we don’t really like. Lima reminds me a lot of Los Angeles, both in climate and proximity to the ocean, and in the fact that it’s very spread out.
For our transfer from the airport to the hotel we used a service called Taxidatum. I think it’s like Uber in that you’re picked up by someone in a private car and driven to your destination for a flat rate. It was $20 from the airport to the hotel and the service worked so well, we booked the return to the airport online the next day.
We stayed in the Miraflores neighborhood at the Sheraton Four Points. The hotel is perfectly fine, in a really good location (for Miraflores) and we were given breakfast with our Cash + Points room rate. The hotel is within walking distance of the ocean and the Parque Kennedy and has access to decent public transportation. There’s also a grocery store nearby which is handy for snack and Pisco purchases.
We had lunch at a local restaurant (dining will be detailed in a later post) and then walked down the road to the ocean and checked out the view which very much reminded me of Santa Monica and the Parque de Amor with its famous statue.
On the way back to the hotel we went to the Parque Kennedy, well known for its abandoned cat population. These cats seemed far from feral, and most had learned how to beg for food from the park visitors. As much as I love cats, it made me very sad to see so many here. We saw signs for a rescue group who helps care for them and find them homes, but clearly they are overwhelmed.
Photos and links from this day: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/03/02/lima-peru/
Coming up; where we ate in Lima, then our last day in Peru, spent roaming an amazing mercado, downtown Lima, a gastronomic museum, and crawling through the catacombs under the San Francisco cathedral.
On to Lima!
We only had a day and a half on arrival to Lima from Cusco and we tried to make the most of it. But Lima is much larger than we expected and getting around isn’t that easy unless you rely on taxis, we we don’t really like. Lima reminds me a lot of Los Angeles, both in climate and proximity to the ocean, and in the fact that it’s very spread out.
For our transfer from the airport to the hotel we used a service called Taxidatum. I think it’s like Uber in that you’re picked up by someone in a private car and driven to your destination for a flat rate. It was $20 from the airport to the hotel and the service worked so well, we booked the return to the airport online the next day.
We stayed in the Miraflores neighborhood at the Sheraton Four Points. The hotel is perfectly fine, in a really good location (for Miraflores) and we were given breakfast with our Cash + Points room rate. The hotel is within walking distance of the ocean and the Parque Kennedy and has access to decent public transportation. There’s also a grocery store nearby which is handy for snack and Pisco purchases.
We had lunch at a local restaurant (dining will be detailed in a later post) and then walked down the road to the ocean and checked out the view which very much reminded me of Santa Monica and the Parque de Amor with its famous statue.
On the way back to the hotel we went to the Parque Kennedy, well known for its abandoned cat population. These cats seemed far from feral, and most had learned how to beg for food from the park visitors. As much as I love cats, it made me very sad to see so many here. We saw signs for a rescue group who helps care for them and find them homes, but clearly they are overwhelmed.
Photos and links from this day: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/03/02/lima-peru/
Coming up; where we ate in Lima, then our last day in Peru, spent roaming an amazing mercado, downtown Lima, a gastronomic museum, and crawling through the catacombs under the San Francisco cathedral.
Mar 5th, 2015, 11:27 AM
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Lima Dining; Alfresco, Maido and T’anta
Lima is quickly becoming one of the gastronomic capitals of the world. We only had a day and a half and I wanted to make it count. I’d done a lot of research on where to eat and I had big plans for a ceviche-a-thon. It all seemed to go out the window once we arrived and realized how far apart everything was (the city is HUGE), and it was complicated by the fact that we were there on a holiday weekend (Easter) and many places were closed.
We arrived in the early afternoon and looking for a place nearby for lunch, went to a restaurant called Alfresco based on the recommendation of the concierge. While it’s clearly a popular place, we weren’t especially impressed with the food though perhaps we picked the wrong things; a couple ceviches and cocktails were about $40. Again, we felt our choices were limited.
For dinner we went to the critically acclaimed restaurant Maido, which if it doesn’t have a Michelin Star, it should. This place is Japanese-Peruvian fusion done with flair and everything we tasted made sense. It wasn’t forced. The chef, Mitsuharu Tsumura, is Peruvian born of Japanese descent, and trained in the US and Japan before returning to Peru. We did the Nikki Experience; this was a 15 course, splash out meal. I’ve eaten in restaurants of this caliber all over the world, and the tab, while pricey, was well valued and probably 40% less than a similar meal would cost in Los Angeles, Paris, or London. David had a beverage tasting to go with each course and it was very well thought out, ranging from local beers and Peruvian fermented corn drink, to sake, to cocktails with Pisco, to South American wines.
The menu was presented on a folded card which was meant to look like an old Japanese passport. If you'd like to see the photos and details of this meal, please check out the link below. I don't think it would make sense to list it all here.
As I said above, the meal was pricy, but for a fine dining experience of this caliber, I thought it was entirely reasonable. The Nikkei Experience was 320 soles per person (about $103) and the wine pairing was 150 soles ($48, but keep in mind there was something for every course). Looking at the menu today, it appears the price has gone up about 50 soles per meal, but the menu (online at least) appears the same.
On our last day in Lima, we went to the old center near the Plaza Mayor. For lunch we went to T’anta, which is a chain from the owners of the famous fine dining establishment, Astrid y Gastón. I had a sandwich with barbequed pork, David had a ceviche, and we both had a Chilcano (a fruit juice and pisco drink). Lunch was about $30.
Finally, we visited the grocery store near the hotel on our last night and bought two bottles of Pisco to being home. If you’re interested in a delicious cocktail using pisco which isn’t a pisco sour, then check out my recipe for the “Sacred Valley“, a cocktail inspired by our stay at the Tambo Del Inka hotel in Urubamba.
For details of the Maido meal and photos, go to:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...ido-and-tanta/
Lima is quickly becoming one of the gastronomic capitals of the world. We only had a day and a half and I wanted to make it count. I’d done a lot of research on where to eat and I had big plans for a ceviche-a-thon. It all seemed to go out the window once we arrived and realized how far apart everything was (the city is HUGE), and it was complicated by the fact that we were there on a holiday weekend (Easter) and many places were closed.
We arrived in the early afternoon and looking for a place nearby for lunch, went to a restaurant called Alfresco based on the recommendation of the concierge. While it’s clearly a popular place, we weren’t especially impressed with the food though perhaps we picked the wrong things; a couple ceviches and cocktails were about $40. Again, we felt our choices were limited.
For dinner we went to the critically acclaimed restaurant Maido, which if it doesn’t have a Michelin Star, it should. This place is Japanese-Peruvian fusion done with flair and everything we tasted made sense. It wasn’t forced. The chef, Mitsuharu Tsumura, is Peruvian born of Japanese descent, and trained in the US and Japan before returning to Peru. We did the Nikki Experience; this was a 15 course, splash out meal. I’ve eaten in restaurants of this caliber all over the world, and the tab, while pricey, was well valued and probably 40% less than a similar meal would cost in Los Angeles, Paris, or London. David had a beverage tasting to go with each course and it was very well thought out, ranging from local beers and Peruvian fermented corn drink, to sake, to cocktails with Pisco, to South American wines.
The menu was presented on a folded card which was meant to look like an old Japanese passport. If you'd like to see the photos and details of this meal, please check out the link below. I don't think it would make sense to list it all here.
As I said above, the meal was pricy, but for a fine dining experience of this caliber, I thought it was entirely reasonable. The Nikkei Experience was 320 soles per person (about $103) and the wine pairing was 150 soles ($48, but keep in mind there was something for every course). Looking at the menu today, it appears the price has gone up about 50 soles per meal, but the menu (online at least) appears the same.
On our last day in Lima, we went to the old center near the Plaza Mayor. For lunch we went to T’anta, which is a chain from the owners of the famous fine dining establishment, Astrid y Gastón. I had a sandwich with barbequed pork, David had a ceviche, and we both had a Chilcano (a fruit juice and pisco drink). Lunch was about $30.
Finally, we visited the grocery store near the hotel on our last night and bought two bottles of Pisco to being home. If you’re interested in a delicious cocktail using pisco which isn’t a pisco sour, then check out my recipe for the “Sacred Valley“, a cocktail inspired by our stay at the Tambo Del Inka hotel in Urubamba.
For details of the Maido meal and photos, go to:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...ido-and-tanta/
Apr 6th, 2015, 10:32 AM
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I am finally done, a year later and just in time for my next trip (Hong Kong and Shanghai). Unfortunately, I still have two other trips not yet written (Burma and London).
So, if you'd like to see the last post, mostly photos all about Lima's Mercado de Surquillo and Historical District please go here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...ical-district/
Thanks to those who have stuck with my report!
So, if you'd like to see the last post, mostly photos all about Lima's Mercado de Surquillo and Historical District please go here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2015/0...ical-district/
Thanks to those who have stuck with my report!
Apr 10th, 2015, 09:55 PM
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Thank you so much for your post. It is one of the most useful posts I have read. I will go through it in detail tomorrow. But I have already found some excellent tips for our trip in August. Thanks!
