tom_mn

Thanks for the additional notes. I did check out Peru Hop but it all seems so formulaic. I have done dune stuff previously also so no appeal with that stop. The social aspect may be of interest however.

Noting for others that with LATAM now in SkyTeam it is possible to book Iquitos>>USA (and from other cities) on one ticket, no need to overnight in Lima on the way home if not interested. Delta will pick up the leg home from Lima (or JFK or Atlanta). Would also work with KLM or Air France I suppose. If the Holiday Inn near the Lima airport were not so dang expensive it wouldn't be a big deal to overnight there.

mlgb

To be clear, I'm not suggesting that you USE PeruHop, just that if you want to copy an itinerary theirs is probably as up to date as any. Your itinerary is already "formulaic". You are not going off the beaten path from what you've posted so far. The most off the beaten path places I've been are around Cajamarca, to Chachapoyas, via Celendin and the Maranon Canyon (THAT's a canyon) and then on to the Owlet Lodge. Huancayo is pretty off the beaten path, except for Peruvians, especially if the train isn't running..


The other thing to note about Colca, since you don't like paying taxes, is that they had started requiring tourist tickets, think it is about $20 USD equivalent. crellston has been more recently.
Colca is not just about a canyon. There are two distinct pre-Inca cultures there, small colonial churches from the 16th c, the Inca granaries, ruins at Uyo Uyo ruins (can be done as a tough day hike from the Killawasi Lodge in Yanque) and a few hot springs, some quite accessible. Plus Condors in the right season.

crellston

Of course it does, that is a key principle of their entire business model. They are transporting tourists around Peru along well trodden routes, staying accommodations that they have tried and tested using local guides at the various locations. What they add is flexibility as you can pick and choose where to use them and for what and mix and match with independent arrangements.
As mlgb points out, those itineraries are well used and they work but you will obviously pay a premium.

Independent travel in Peru is easier than in any other South American country. The transport system is excellent but one needs to recognise the realities that many of the more efficient routes/method require overnight bus travel. If that is definitely not for you then I do feel that you will need to perhaps adjust your itinerary to reflect this and perhaps reduce the number of places you visit and rely on air transport.

Another good source of itinerary inspiration is https://www.intrepidtravel.com/uk/peru They mostly operate small group tours but generally use local guides and transport (rather than their own) . I believe they also offer private tours at a premium. Again they will charge a premium over independent travel and I am not suggesting you use them but simply take one of their itineraries and use it for routes and timings.

crellston

Tom, looking through your past posts here, I think it might be an idea to identify priorities for which places you want to visit within your 24 days. See which places are better served by locally organised tours - A trek, the Colca Canyon and Amazon immediately spring to mind. Once you have that nailed, allocate time to each and then plan around that. Note that specialist treks such as the one you considered above will probably only run on specific days. Colca, Amazon and MP you will be able to arrange anytime you want subject to availability.

I am facing similar issues planning our second trip to Mexico. The first was easy enough but this one cover the Dia del Muertos celebrations which, as mlgb will attest to, is causing me all sorts of problems! As is always the case flexibility is key.

mlgb

Many people decide not to do Nazca on a first trip.

I had gone to Peru several times before I decided to tick it off the bucket list. For me, it was an out and back from Lima - Ica - Nazca and return.

I took a morning Lima bus, probably Cruz del Sur, to arrive in Ica mid day. Stayed one nIght at Hotel Villa Jazmin & thought was a good value , but not right in center of town (taxis were cheap). They arranged the dune buggy ride for me, and I taxied to Huacachina and back just for the sunset tour. Next day I bussed to Nazca, I probably waited until the following morning to book the Nazca flight with a travel agent in town. There are dozens of them. They also set me up with a few land tours, I liked the aqueducts and we went to some sites where you can see lines on the ground, and the cemetery. I stayed two nights in Nazca, Casa Andina, and then straight back to Lima. I remember the room was okay and it was just a few blocks from the bus terminal. Can't remember what time the bus was, bur probably a late because I went on a few tours that day.

Oh yes, Ica and Nazca were both excellent locations to try seafood, my receptionist at 3B (at the time) was a foodie and gave me some good leads. Since it was 10 years ago, I don't know that I should recommend them.

tom_mn

Part of the issue is running stuff past spouse who is so overwhelmed with migrant children this year at her school (ironically, the worst behavior issue is a 5 year old from Peru who walked here via the Darien Gap) that it takes forever for approval of the steps/lodging. Looks like this will be a retirement trip for us both, although it started out just being one for me.

The issue with straying from the Gringo Trail is that with only 24 days, that's pretty much all that there is time for, there's the bucket list items (Nazca, Titicaca, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Amazon) and the time's up. I just can't see going back.

I'm finding the Rough Guide is better than LP but still short of logistics. I guess with the Instagram set (those under 30) all doing Peru Hop without roughing it there's no market out there for a do-it-yourself guide anymore. A problem with PH according to videos is that there are 2 overnight bus rides but without the possibility of deluxe seats, just sitting up all night which just doesn't work for us.

mlgb

Footprint Guides were pretty good. Looks like the most recent is from 2018, Amazon sells.

ISBN 9781911082552

You can also find some info on the website of Bradt who bought out Footprint

https://www.bradtguides.com/destinat...-america/peru/

tom_mn

Footprint guide coming from library.

Just discovered https://mapcarta.com/N7103671797 and all the possibilities are finally opening up. I can zoom in and see the trails and lodging and roads, and then cross reference with alltrails.com for each segment of interest to see how demanding it is.

Re the lodge to lodge place for Salkantay: I finally got through to someone and the hikes mostly follow roads except the Salkantay pass. Not exactly false advertising but it is not a back door to Machu Picchu as advertised. It's another way to get to the train that stops at Aguas Calientes. Also their 40% off sale doesn't look so good once you finally get the July prices, double the January prices posted on the website. They do have nice maps of their extended tour which includes day hikes in the sacred valley, and I could just put any of those together myself.

mlgb

A nice excursion of a few hours is around Pisac, take a taxi to the top and hike down, this puts you on another part of the "Inca Trail". There are other walks around Ollantaytambo, the Sacred Valley and Cusco, alltrails and the Footprint Guide should cover them. I'm sure these hikes are now all swarming with other travelers but when I did them it was before the 100th anniversary and so relatively peaceful. And before the locals got priced out of living in their own villages, sadly.

Glad I went when I did.

crellston

When visiting Pisac, a nice DIY hike, would be to jump off the bus back to Cusco at Tambo Machay and then follow the Inca Trails from there to Cusco via various ruins - Puca Pucarra, Q'enko, and the magnificent Sacsayhuaman for where it is 20-30 mins stroll back down through San Blas into central Cusco. Takes around three hours, is all level or downhill and makes a great first hike to acclimatise to the altitude. Some photos and more detail https://accidentalnomads.com/2013/06...s-above-cusco/ Some great views along the way especially from Sacsayhuaman where you can see Cusco from above

tom_mn

I have finally started to reserve things. Questions about drug availability in Peru:

1. Is the altitude sickness preventative Acetazolamide (Diamox) available over the counter without a prescription?

2. What about malaria prophylactics like atovaquone-proguanil, doxycycline, mefloquine, or tafenoquine?

3. Do the internal airfares vary much, or just buy whenever plans firm up?

crellston

1. Acetazolamide is readily available in pharmacies without prescription. Stick to one of the big chains so as to avoid fake meds. I always use Mi Pharma which have outlets everywhere. Avoid the "soroche" pills which are sold everywhere as a remedy for AMS. They are just caffeine, aspirin and who know what else?
2. Not sure about malaria meds. If not available without prescription, private clinics will dispense for a consult fee. Probably cheaper than in your home country. There is a travel clinic in LIM airport. I usually take a malaria treatment course with me rather than prophylaxis. I contracted malaria once even though I was on medication- not a lot of fun!
3. Domestic airfares don’t seem to vary that much, but I usually buy when my plans are firmed up to be sure of availability, especially on popular routes like LIM-CUZ & LIM - PM and if tours are involved or dates fixed.

tom_mn

Thanks for the replies. Looking for someplace in Miraflores that gives the yellow fever vax if you know one. I might normally skip it for this short visit but planning to visit East Africa eventually so might as well do it now. I had the shot in 1988 so I think I am still good, so it's for my wife.

So far have booked a 4 night airbnb in Miraflores on arrival, then the last five nights are setting up like this:
2 nights at a restored mansion in Iquitos, booked via Booking.com (cancellable)
2 nights at Cieba Tops, also booked via Booking.com so cancellable and no money required up front. I realize this is an older, top end place but looking at the surrounding jungle this part of the Amazon is so populated I doubt any of these places is very good for wildlife, so this excursion is more an Amazon visit with history and some jungly elements. Last night in Lima looking at using IHG points at either the Holiday Inn across from the airport (expensive) or the Holiday Inn Express in San Isidro, fewer points and with free breakfast and then places to go during the day (flight home at 10pm). I don't know how we would spend the day at the HI across from the airport, I don't think there's any walking or sites in the area.

mlgb

IIRC many report getting the YF jab at Lima Airport. Otherwise it may be at a public hospital which I would avoid.

You are correct there is nothing of interest at the airport.

With that many nights in Iquitos you probably could get into a reserve with wildlife.

I don't think you can buy malaria meds OTC.I've always been able to get malarone from my US doctor. I'm not sure whether you can source it in Peru. You do need to find the recommended drug for whichever strain is present.

tom_mn

For my own record, posting a doxycycline approach to malaria prevention
http://www.defence.gov.au/adf-member...ns/doxycycline

mlgb

Too many side effects and contraindications. If you're able to get it malarone is better, but not cheaper.

tom_mn

If Malarone (or generic) is not available in Peru OTC then it ends up being pretty pricy for me. My doctor will only refer to their internal travel clinic, and that consultation (almost certainly with a nurse practitioner reading recommendations off the CDC website-- I can do that) is not covered by insurance, nor is the Malerone, so potentially a $450 prescription. Doxycycline is a form of tetracycline so well known and used.

crellston

$450 for Malerone?! are you sure about that? I can get a 10 day supply here in the UK from a reputable online pharmacy for around £35 (say $45) . Someone is ripping off the US travellers!

I doubt that a private consultation plus the cost of the drugs in a private clinic in Lima would be anything like $450. Maybe check out the clinic in Lima airport to see if they can help

tom_mn

I asked at a pharmacy what 30 tablets of generic malarone would be and got the usual cryptic reply.

”The full retail price is $170. But no one pays retail. If insurance doesn’t cover the drug we find coupons and promo codes to bring the total down by about 25%.”

But that’s only the hard cost, I would have to ask at the travel clinic what their consultation cost is since insurance won’t cover that either. Or just try to get something locally in Peru.

tom_mn

About tourist bus Arequipa>>Chivay>>Puno:

M4 is still operating but the cost is high, $110. I tried the 2 Whatsapp numbers on the Nativa Express, the first one was not responded to but the second one did, same service for $70, still expensive but a little more reasonable.