MichGuy

My wife and I (in our late 60's) plan to visit Peru and Chile in January 2019. I have traveled in South America a number of times, and speak passable Spanish, but those trips were always for business (and on an expense account).

My question is this: What's the best way to navigate through the following destinations? Can we use trains and taxis or is a rental car feasible for this one-way route? Are buses better than the train? Should we just fly some of the legs? Total trip - 14 days plus two travel days from the US (Miami). Here's our tentative itinerary -

Lima
Cusco
Ollantaytambo
Lake Titicaca
San Pedro de Atacama
Valparaiso
Santiago

We would love to extend the trip to include Patagonia but I'm not sure it's worth it. Mostly because our hard hiking days are behind us. Although we can still do six hours a day at 10,000 feet plus in Colorado. Any suggestions? Many thanks.

Bbult5

Hi MichGuy,

I can only speak to the Peruvian destinations and would certainly not recommend a car for any portion in Peru. Driving here is crazy and most of these destinations have other transport options.

Between Lima & Cusco, the only sensible option is a flight into Cusco (bus service just takes so many hours & there is no train service). Getting from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, private cars and transportation are the main way. Trains depart Poroy station (about 20 minutes from Cusco) about 4 or 5 times per day but you still need a hired car. Most operators offer transportation services, but be sure they are rated well online & have their own vehicles. This should be easy enough with your Spanish skills. Then of course train service links you from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.

As far as Cusco to Puno, there is air service once daily right now (at about 11am?). The busses between Cusco and Puno aren't nearly as bad since the distance isn't so far. I have experience with Inka Express and Cruz del Sur. Inka Express offers service with about 4 stops along the way at popular sites (takes about 11 hours though) and Cruz del Sur offers direct bus service with no stops (about 6.5 hours). Inka Express leaves at 6:50 and Cruz del Sur at 8 right now.

Have a great visit, and be safe on the wild Peruvian roads!

MichGuy

Thank you! Great comments, just the advice I need.

crellston

I pretty much agree with the suggestions made above but would suggest looking at Lima airport taxi transfers,taxi Jorge Chavez airport in lima, for the journey from Cusco to Ollantaymbo. Assuming that you want to see some amazing scenery, then definitely go for Inka Express rather than flying to Puno.

From Puno it is going to be very difficult to get to San Pedro. we have done it a couple of ways overland through Bolivia via Copacabana , la Paz, Salar de Uyuni but that was as part of a much longer trip and I just don’t think you have enough time. That section would take at the very east, a week of pretty rough travel overland.

To get there by air you would probably need to fly form Puno back to Lima and then to Santiago and then to Calama and then take a 3 hour bus ride to San Pedro!

One option would be to go from Cusco to Arequipa by bus - a nice journey and Arequipa is one of the most stunning cities in Peru. From there you can get buses down to Iquique via the border near Arica and then to San Pedro via Calama. we did it in the opposite direction and it involved around 24 hours on buses ( but spread over several days). there may be local airline that fly part or all of these routes - search fro Sky airlines.

Realistically though, if you want to include all those destinations you need to increase the amount of time substantially. if you can it is worth thinking about a tour of Salar de Uyuni from La Paz and some will drop you off in San Pedro at the end of the tour.

Huentetu

San Pedro de Atacama
Valparaiso
Santiago

How are you getting to San Pedro de Atacama? From where? Trying to combine what you want to see in Peru with what you want to see in Chile will not be easy and will be time consuming even using flights.
There are flights from Calama (1.5 hrs from San Pedro) to Santiago.
From Santiago to Valparaiso and back there are are very frequent buses, every 15-20 mins and more than one bus company.

There are no long distance trains to speak of in Chile, only some commuter trains but not many of those.

mlgb

I think you will want to split your trip into two halves, and not try to connect Peru and Chile by land. As crellston says, that takes a long time.

crellston did not post the name of the transfer company in Lima and Cusco but gave you a link. They are taxidatum. I have used them in Lima to and from the airport because they are easy to reserve online and are transparent in their pricing. Have always had a nice private car and safe driver (the first time I used them and actually had Leonardo, the owner!). Several of us repeat travelers to Lima like this company. You'll find the Tripadvisor DE trying to denigrate them because his nephew runs (or ran) a transfer company but if crellston says they are good I'd go with them for a tour/transfer from the Cusco airport to a lodging in the SV. I've used multiple ways to get around in the SV but with luggage to and from the Cusco airport your first time I'd want a person with my name on a card..the altitude can hit you and cause a little brain fog.

BTW you didn't ask but I would switch the order of Cusco and Ollantay.. it looks like you are first staying in Cusco? Not necessary if you are not hiking the Inca Trail..people always think they need to stay in Cusco first but there are more trains from Ollantaytambo and it's lower in elevation. So I would taxi transfer Cusco airport to Ollantaytambo, then do the train roundtrip to Machu Picchu (I assume you are going there). Then do a taxi/tour back to Cusco. IMO it's best to save the intermediate stops in Salineras/Moray/Chinchero for the return trip.

From Cusco to Puno/L. Titicaca I'd look into one of the all day tour buses which make several stops along the way. There is also a luxury train but I can't comment on that!

If you are in a Cusco hotel before you fly out, the airport is only about 15 minutes from the city center so it's just as easy to have them call you a taxi.

When I first went to South America I combined Chilean Patagonia and Peru. Not recommended!

I had a few days in Santiago because it was a transfer point but didn't find it worthy of very many days. Prefer Valparaiso. Have taken the bus from Santiago airport to Valpo and it was pretty easy for someone with passable Spanish (although the Chilean dialect is a difficult one to understand, at least they will understand you!)

I have done the Salar in Boliva rather than SPdA...

You aren't asking for itinerary advice but I might look into splitting this into several trips and just sticking with Peru. You could go from Lima to Ica/Paracas/Nazca for example.

I would do Chile as a separate trip

Bolivia works pretty well going in from Cusco although I think I'd want maybe 3 weeks rather than 2.

crellston

"crellston did not post the name of the transfer company” Thanks for pointing that out mlgb. I am not getting on very well in this new format! I just cut and pasted the Taxidatum web link and all that garbage came out??

I do agree with mlgb’s suggestions to either stick with Peru or maybe combine Peru and Bolivia. Chile and Peru is just not practical in the time you have. I think if you work out the number of hours you would need to spend in planes and buses, waiting and travel time to and from bus stations airports etc. you will have very little time to actually see stuff. Factor in the effects of altitude and you will probably return home needing a holiday..

MichGuy

Thanks again all. I'm paying attention!!