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Need some help in getting started-first vacation to South America!

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Old Jun 3rd, 2016, 12:23 PM
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Need some help in getting started-first vacation to South America!

One couple and a friend need some help in getting started. Some background - have visited Europe, Asia and NZ / Australia. We live in Texas and now want to head towards South America. We enjoy good food, beautiful scenery, red wines and history. Budget -- 4 to 5 star hotels. We speak Spanish -- or enough. Say 10-12 nights. Driving can be a pain so would consider getting guides to take us some places. I love to study travel options but would appreciate getting a jump start. With flip flop on seasons, best time to visit -- say April or November. Do they have bad rainy seasons (lived in Guatemala and you wanted to avoid their rainy season)?

For a first trip -- do you have itineraries you would suggest? What are the do not miss destinations in South America? Know is huge continent -- so should we head towards southern part on first trip (like South Island in NZ is, in our option, the best place for a first visit to NZ) or concentrate on the North. 2 or 3 great hotels would be nice.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2016, 01:13 PM
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I don't think anybody can answer this for you.

Imagine if somebody asked you what the weather was in North America, and the best places to go in 10-12 days.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2016, 01:20 PM
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I know exactly what you mean re the South v the North Island of NZ! With that in mind, and your desire for good food and red wine, I would give Argentina some serious consideration. Mendoza is renowned for its red wines, notably Malbec and it has some great vineyard stays. However, I much preferred Salta and the Northwest. It too has some great wines centred on the town of Cafayate and some stunning scenery in the region.

Either of those places could easily be combined with Buenos Aires and even perhaps, Iguazu falls. November would probably be the best time for that region.

Chile is another option. It too has great food and wine and, although it being a long thin country, it does have a much better airline system than Argentina which could arguably make it easier to get from place to place.

Normally, for a first visit to SA, I would suggest Peru, so much to see and easy yo get around but I don't feel that April or Nov are the best months weather wise. May- Sept would be better.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2016, 04:56 PM
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For good food and wine, I'd say Argentina. BA is a fabulous city and you could spend a few days there and then fly to the NW to Salta. spend time exploring the NW which has some beautiful scenery, good wines and food. If you check out some of the trip Reports in the SA forum, you might find something that strikes your fancy.

While I enjoyed Chile, I did not think much of the food there.
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 08:30 AM
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First of all, don't know where 'denihead' post came from. Have asked Fodors.

Been doing research on internet and looked at Abercrombie Kent. Don't think I am interested in taking their tour but here is what they do:

2 nights Santiago
3 nights Frutillar (fly from Santiago to Puerto Montt)
1 night Baricoche (Little Switzerland ?)
2 nights Iguazu Falls
2 nights Buenos Aires
?? add on Rio

For us that like reds, add on additional night in Santiago and do a whole day of wine tours. Looks like Bocanaiz for wine and dinner. Looks like excellent boutique hotels.

Appreciate your comments overall -- the smaller destinations -- and adding on Rio or just return from Buenos Aires. Also, restaurant and small hotel ideas. Any destination steak places along this route? Will need to compare with Texas.

Also, any suggestions/comments on tour guides in these locations?
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 08:40 AM
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Sorry, think should be spelled Bariloche.

What is 'blue rates' and do they still exist?
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 08:44 AM
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I think that is a pretty standard itin and is fine. How are you getting to Bariloche? There is a beautiful bus boat bus routing that is really lovely. I wrote about it in my TR. http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...-chile-arg.cfm

We were less than thrilled with Santiago...much preferred Valparaiso for charm and interest. Also didnt have great food at all in Santiago. In general thought the food in Chile was just so so to bad. They believe in covering fresh seafood in some gloopy substance (cheese? cream?) thus ruining good seafood. If you like red wines and steak, put your extra time into BA where they have both and its fabulous. The differnece between the food in ARG and Chile is night and day.

We stayed at a wonderful small boutique BnB along the lake in Bariloche. It was a bus ride into town itself. the lake is beautful, but I htought Bariloche, just okay. Again I preferred the neighboring San Martin de los Andes.

Fruitllar was nice -- very German with wonderful desserts. IF is fabulous and if you like falls dont miss it.
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 10:06 AM
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Thanks for good feedback so far -- denihead???.

Yes, will plan on best food in BA.

Still so early in my trip planning. Went back to Abercrombie website and remain confused. They say "Begin full day journey [from Puerto Varas]through Lake District" they include cruise on a Lake Nahuel Huapi -- then arrive in picturesque Bariloche. Must be in bus/vans!

Any thoughts?

Should we rent a car when we arrive at airport in Puerto Montt and turn in in Bariloche? Drive OK? We don't mind renting a car but will avoid if we can get tour guides, limo services, trains, etc.
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 01:56 PM
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QUESTION Airplane flights within South America!

Flights between Santiago and Puerto Montt and between Bariloche and Iguaza Falls -- looked at fares and they appear outrageous -- hundreds and hundreds of dollars each --- one way.

What am I doing wrong or do you have other suggestions?
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Old Jun 4th, 2016, 03:33 PM
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Chile has a discount airline - dont recall the name, but you can google and find out what it is.

Taking cars across the border apparently is a pain. Im not aware of any trains that you could take. What Abercrombie describes going from PV to Bariloche may well be the bus/boat/bus/boat deal I mentioned.

There is a Travel AGent who is always recommended on here, Isabel, that may be a good person to connect with Try searching for her name in Argentina forum.
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Old Jun 5th, 2016, 05:25 AM
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http://www.skyairline.cl/en/index.aspx Is the Chiles based discount airline. They also fly to other SA counties notably Argentina. Have flown with them a few years ago and they were efficient at cheap, sometimes 25% of the Lantam fare. However, the cheap fares don't always appear on their site. Some days they do sometime not. You have to keep trying - I think it's some for of software issue. At least that was the case whe I was looking at Santiago- Mendoza fares a few months Apart from that , easy to use.

If you by with your international ticket you may be able to get. Latam ( formerly Lan) , air pass. I think you need at least three flights. I look at those for our current trip but decided not because a, it didn't seem that much cheaper and b) expensive to change dates etc.

In the end we found it easier to book on Expedia ( rarely happens!) for our "direct" two hours salta to iguazu flight. A couple of weeks ago that changed to salta- BA-Iguazzu ( 8 hrs). Caveat Emptor!

It's maybe 8 years since we drove in southern Argentina it was fine but then the roads weren't great, gravel rather than Tarmac for most of the time. One way rentals tend to be very expensive.

We had great steak all over Argentina, certainly the equal of anything I've had in the US - can't speak for Texas though as I haven't been. BA is your best bet but I hesitate to recommend any specific places as they do change. But will be researching the matter in depth in August and will try to report back!

My wife follows a couple of foodie blogs for BA I will try and post a link.
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Old Jun 5th, 2016, 08:43 AM
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It really depends on how much you want to focus on eating steak and wine, versus seeing a different landscape and culture.

I happen to have a different opinion about Buenos Aires than yestravel. Not only didn't I find it especially attractive, the landscape is flat,food was bland, and it doesn't really seem very "South American". BTW we had better steak on our cruise ship (which sources their steaks from Uruguay) as well as in Montevideo and the Mercado del Puerto! My travel friend is a steak person and that was also his assessment.

I thought the seafood in Valparaiso was excellent, none of it covered in glop and exceedingly fresh. It just depends on how you order, I think. Chile is also well known for red wines. Valparaiso has entire neighborhoods covered in brightly painted houses and street art. Great ocean views and I think the climate in November or April is pleasant.

It might not be your ideal plan, but if I were going back to just Argentina/Chile, I would focus on Torres del Paine and Ushuaia for Tierra del Fuego NP. The Lakes area in Chile is suffering a drought, if you go in summer you may not see much snow on those famous volcanoes. Your travel months might be a bit out of season, though. November may be okay.

As you go further south in Chile and Argentina, the meat of choice is lamb which I prefer anyways.

One thing you might consider is a Cape Horn cruise. They generally start in November and run through March. Then you could tack on a few days before and after in Santiago and in Buenos Aires. If you go NCL they have the Uruguay steaks. The port stops had fairly generous layovers in most cases.
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Old Jun 5th, 2016, 10:43 AM
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I agree with mlgb about BA, and about the steak. My volunteer guide in BA told me that the cattle in Argentina were no longer free range, as the land was being used to grow soy beans for China. Uruguay definitely has great steak.
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Old Jun 5th, 2016, 11:13 AM
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I've been to BA 4 times over the years, but I haven't been to BA in a few years and I have heard that the steak is not at the quality that it was which is too bad. I'm not even a meat eater and did enjoy what I have had there. However ARG has some great wines and the Italian food in BA is topnotch. Maybe AV,our in-house ARG expert on Fodors, will check in here and enlighten us as to what has changed. He would also be able to answer your question about the "blue rate." I agree that BA is different from the other SA cities that I have been to. BA is a huge, buzzy city with lots of good museums, beautiful parks and interesting neighborhoods. There are many top notch hotels and smal boutique hotels. You have to enjoy big, noisy cities to appreciate it I think.

A definite nod to the avocado in Chile - it was wonderful and I pretty much lived on avocado sandwiches. They also had very good bread. We even bought it along the roadside fresh and warm. Never been a big fan of Chilean wines, but everyone has different tastes. Also recall having some very good smoked salmon somehere along the way. I agree that TdP is fabulous and if you can fit it in, do. Spectacular scenery and some great hiking if you are into hiking. But even without the hiking there is much to love there.

I also agree that overall I have enjoyed the countryside in SA to the cities. Yhe NW of ARG is a great place to think about going. Many love the lakes and Bariloche.
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Old Jun 5th, 2016, 01:51 PM
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I'm here, as requested by yestravel.

The reason I did not "check in here" before is that, as elberko said in the first reply to the OP, I, too, felt the question was "too general".

Philip:

1) As you can see, "denihead" is gone. You simply "report" such posts and the mods delete them.

2) For all practical purposes, the "blue" exchange rate does not exist any more.

3) I don't think it's a good idea to rent a car in Chile and return it in Argentina. Even if it CAN be done, it will certainly be preposterously expensive.

4) Isabel is a great travel agent, but runs a one-person operation and sometimes cannot take on any more business, even though she charges an up-front fee. Her e-mail is: [email protected]

5) I don't think the food has changed much here. It is still good and cheap, if you go to the right places.

6) Yes, internal flights can be quite expensive in Argentina.

7) You have received great advice above. It should help you plan your trip.

Have a great time in my country.

Signed: AV, "our in-house ARG expert on Fodors" (according to yestravel)
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Old Jun 6th, 2016, 11:01 AM
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Without a doubt, you can't miss the most iconic place in South America, which is Machu Picchu. You can spend most of your time in Cusco, if you want to experience something different than a large city (aren't they the same? , the vibe is amazing, historic at its best. Lima is the gastronomical capital of the Americas if not the world. If you need help with info and finding what you want/need contact me i will help you.
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Old Jun 7th, 2016, 07:57 AM
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Thanks eyamozner -- appreciate your suggestions. These destinations were originally what I had been thinking -- on my bucket list. Will need to go back to the drawing board again.

In the meantime, I have used the great comments from posters and spent hours (and hours) over the past three days (mainly flights within SA) researching. Maybe too detailed but REALLY want your suggestions, criticisms, observations, etc.

We use points for international travel -- AMEX -- business class. Having obstacles using Singapore FFM to get United direct flight from Houston to South America. Otherwise, Delta - Houston to Atlanta (or Mexico City) then on to South America.

Day 1 -- travel to Santiago.

Day 2 -- arrive Santiago; HOTELS Le Reve, Aubrey or Castilla Rojo; RESTAURANTS Singular, Peumayen, Bocanariz or Ox; private or group tour of city

Day 3 -- group or private wine country tour ("Uncorked Wine Tours"); we would love to visit vineyards with great USD $40-$50 reds; QUES suggestions?; where are the best reds vineyards close to Santiago?

Day 4 -- travel to Puerto Montt on Sky Airlines; find good tour guide (ex. Patagonia Austral) ("or rent a car" - hopefully not) to pick us up at airport and do Frutillar Teatro del Lao, Osorno Volcano, Perez Rosales Nat'l Park, visit Petrohue Falls, Paragua Bay, San Antonio de Chacoa), etc. -- over two days; HOTEL Hotel Patagonico on Lake Llanquihue in Puerto Varas; RESTAURANTS ??

Day 5 -- continue area tour with guide

Day 6 -- travel to Bariloche via Cruceandino.com; HOTEL Charming Luxury Lodge & Spa; RESTAURANTS ??; TO DO - Lake Nahuel Huapi, Vitoria Island, brewery, Playa Serena; QUES any tour guide suggestions???

Day 7 -- continue exploring the area with tour guide

Day 8 -- travel to Iguazu Falls via Aerolineas - Foz do Iguazu; HOTEL Sheraton Iguazu Resorts & Spa - on Argentina side; THINGS TO DO visit paths around Argentina side, Devil's Gorge, Brazilian side; RESTAURANT La Dama Juano in Puerto Iguazu QUES on hotel, is it easier to stay Sheraton since landing at Foz do Iguazu or any problem with Belmond Hotel das Cataratas?

Day 9 -- continue exploring Iguazu Falls

Day 10 -- travel to Buenos Aires on Aerolineas; HOTEL Mine Hotel Boutique; RESTAURANT Steaks by Luis; private or group tour of city

Day 11 -- continue tours Buenos Aires; late flights back to Texas
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Old Jun 7th, 2016, 08:45 AM
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I was born in Cusco, Peru i live in Los Angeles though so my "expertise" would be in Perú.
But we travel last year to Iguazu Falls and we had to get visas for Brazil and we weren't aware we needed one too to go to the Argentinian side, so we had to turn around at the border, even though we try to get one there, it became impossible. But we were not disappointed since the day before we took a helicopter ride on the Brazilian side...i highly recommend it, is spectacular!!
But be aware that you will need visas or reciprocity fee going to Argentina and Brazil.
Another suggestion : if you could flight LATAM airlines (former LAN AIRLINES) is a SA based airline, i would recommend, service is good, better than American and United.
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Old Jun 7th, 2016, 09:39 AM
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If you are a US citizen you don't need the Argentina visa/reciprocity fee any more. It changed this year (after I paid for it!)
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Old Jun 7th, 2016, 10:47 AM
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I didn't find a guide necessary.

In Bariloche, definitely go up Cerro Campanario. See:

mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/a-most-beautiful-view/

Pity to go to Santiago and miss Valparaiso.
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