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Iguaçu Falls fast trip

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Iguaçu Falls fast trip

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Old Oct 6th, 2017 | 07:25 AM
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Iguaçu Falls fast trip

Iguaçu or Iguazú or Iguazu--whatever language or translation, the falls are amazing.

I would have enjoyed 2+ days in this area to see the falls off peak, go bird watching, shop a bit, but my traveling companion was on a tight schedule, so I compromised to 1.5 days for me and 1 day for her.

We were arriving late on Friday night and then my friend would fly out early Sunday and I would leave late afternoon Sunday. Friday night flight from GRU was 1 hour late, so arrived after 1am. My flight on Sunday was delayed 1 hour due to flat tire. LATAM.

I settled on first night at San Juan Eco Hotel (close to airport, shuttle, reasonable price), then splurge on second night at Belmond to have late park access and putting me in the park for my .5 day. A $100 back offer from booking.com helped, but it was still the most expensive hotel room I have ever booked. SJE Hotel--shuttle mixup so took taxi, noisy, busy--I would not recommend. Belmond--high touch staff and service, lovely room and grounds, slow restaurant with mediocre food--I would recommend hotel.

The falls have to be seen to be believed. The brochure says more than 275 falls (counting upper falls separate from lower falls, I think). Each one is a waterfall that people would make a special hike to anywhere else. The walkways take you on top, below, alongside--so accessible. Absolutely one of the most amazing places I have seen! I walked around with a silly grin on my face the entire time.

We hired a car/taxi at the hotel with the help of the bellman and were on our way to the Argentina side first. Because of the late arrival, we didn't get started as early as we planned, but we needed some rest and food. We followed standard advice--walk directly to the train, waiting about 20 minutes before boarding and riding the slow train to Devils Throat, lingering along the walk to arrive after the crowd to the viewpoint. It was still very crowded, so we waited, looked around, and eventually the wave of people left and we had a few moments almost to ourselves. Then--back on the train and on to the lower trail. Short snack time, then quickly on the upper trail. We skipped a few falls and walkways because of our time constraint. No boat ride. No shopping at the local crafts stand. Back to the exit to find a taxi to take us back to Brazil, collect our bags, and move on to the other side of the park.

We were in the park from about 9:30 or 10:00 until 3:00 or 3:30. I could have stayed another 2+ hours to have time to look at the crafts, the museum, take all the trails, relax, and not push my friend to walk so fast. San Martin Island was not open, so not an option for us, but I would like to go out there too.

If I were going again (I'd love to), I think I would go in reverse--start with the lower trail to see falls from the lower level looking up, move to the upper trail to see from the top, then take the train to see Devil's Throat, which is the most dramatic. The train was packed when we went in the morning, but had only a handful of people by 2pm. Of course, one has to watch the last return train time to ensure enough time to walk the trail and enjoy the view over the falls.

It was crowded on a Saturday in September with packed trains steady flows of people on trails, and waits for people with selfie sticks to get out of the views. Lots of coatis aggressively trying to take food and packs. A few lovely birds.
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Old Oct 6th, 2017 | 07:35 AM
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We arrived at the Brazil park gate just in time for the Belmond shuttle. From here everything went smoothly--to the hotel, leave the bags (they will be in your room), and hit the trail directly across from the hotel. Because it was now around 4pm, hardly anyone was on the trail. We stopped at every view, walked out to the viewpoint below Devils Throat in driving mist, rode up the elevator to the top view, and then walked back to the hotel. We were wet, tired, but happy.

Turns out we could have ridden the park bus from the food/shopping area back to the hotel. The last bus doesn't leave until 6:30pm or so. So outside guests get later entry, but do not have to be out of the park at closing time. It is true (despite people at Argentina park telling us it wasn't so) that Belmond guests can wander in the park before/after hours (maybe the park guards would disagree, but hotel staff said OK), but once it is dark, there isn't much to see.
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Old Oct 6th, 2017 | 11:07 AM
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Spectacular, aren't they, the falls?
Sounds like you had a good trip, if brief.
Too bad you don't seem to have had time for the Bird Park; one of the highlights of my trip was being surrounded by free-flying macaws and parrots.
Also the coati "characters", one of whom climbed up my shoulder to get at my popsicle.
The boat ride under Devil's Throat is also pretty thrilling.
Looks like you'll just have to plan another trip someday!
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Old Oct 8th, 2017 | 02:11 PM
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Yes, I plan for my husband and I to go to Antarctica next winter and I was telling him how we could do a side trip to the falls from BA. I'm not sure I'll get him there on that trip, though.
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Old Jan 13th, 2025 | 05:45 AM
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2024 Update

So, I did finally return to the falls with my husband. I didn't think to look back at my old trip report for advice for myself. It would have been helpful.

This time the trip also included work beforehand in Sao Paulo, then one night at Belmond (price has risen considerably) and two nights Sanma Hotel. We wanted a no hassle escape so also hired M.S. Siqueira Turismo Receptivo (contact info on TripAdvisor) in advance for transport at agreed upon prices. We flew on LATAM from/to Sao Paulo.

Belmond remains high touch with comfortable room with nice touches. Food remains mediocre with emphasis on buffet. Staff was mixed bag with front desk trainee giving us bad information. We ended up overpaying and I didn't realize until home. Sanma was also mixed bag. Room just OK. Food bad one night and delightful the next. We could walk to the river and happened upon monkeys eating dinner.

The falls were not as full as my last visit (drought) but still amazing. We walked the rim in the evening and morning from the Belmond. The pier out into the water wasn't open as late/early as I would like to avoid the crowd, but we were able to enjoy the rest in private. This time there were an amazing number and variety of butterflies along the trails (and landing on me). Also saw a toucan.

We decided to take the boat trip with shuttle from hotel. Great to see waterfalls from that level. Even with waterproof clothing you will get very wet. The emphasis seems to be on ramming the boat repeatedly into a waterfall where all one can do is close eyes and let the forceful water ram into any opening.

We wanted to eat breakfast at hotel before heading to Argentina side and were unsure of arrival time so waited to purchase tickets at gate about an hour after opening so had to stand in line. Trains were already full so we started on upper trail. I wish I had read my earlier trip report that suggested starting with lower trail--maybe it would have been less crowded. The number of people everywhere was not overwhelming, but because the number of trails is limited, everyone is funneled along the same routes. For example, there is a great view at the top of a staircase on the lower trail, but one can't stop to admire it if a steady stream of people are wanting to go down the stairs. Nevertheless, one large family was determined to get a photo there with the falls in the background. Once we rode the train, my husband had to leave the Devils Throat overlook quickly due to the crowd. Generally the people were nice to each other, there were just too many in small spaces. We went to the exit to the Melia Hotel and convinced the guard to let us go there for lunch. We received specific instructions to go straight to the restaurant and back within a certain time--no using the rest of the hotel amenities. The hotel was an air conditioned oasis and the food was wonderful. I had been seated for several minutes before I looked out the window and realized we had a great view of the falls. The guard was much nicer when we left the property. We stopped in the museum but it was much too hot so not enjoyable. I meant to check out the craft sales this time but was too hot so we went to the exit, got an ice cream and let our driver know we were ready to leave as soon as he could get there.

Border crossings went smoothly with our driver letting us out to go inside hurriedly to beat a busload. Long line of locals waiting to cross into Brazil.

Details of delay: LATAM departure flight delayed 2 hours due to mechanical issues so we missed our connection in Sao Paulo (along with many others). The flight attendant was helpful and told us to insist on a hotel day room if we would have to wait 12 hours for next flight. LATAM passengers who had been rebooked were given new boarding passes at door but not those of us transferring to DL flights. We and another family used the shortcut immigration/security route between terminals and ran but missed our flights. An attendant was with them and they disappeared. Our gate was closed and no one around. Found a LATAM employee who gave us vague directions to go down somewhere. We asked at main security and he asked someone else who sent us back and down. We found the staircase down and a LATAM desk around underneath the stairs. She wanted us to go to DL check in in the lobby but we were unsure if it would be manned with no additional flight for 12 hours. Then she offered us the lounge upstairs. I followed the flight attendant's advice and insisted on a hotel room, which we eventually got along with confirmed rebooking. Lot's of Google Translate. Couldn't find the hotel shuttle (it goes on break for 2-3 hours midday) so took taxi to hotel. Checked in and lunch then returned to room to drilling overhead. Back to desk and change rooms for a nap and shower. Back to airport on shuttle to DL check in, then lounge for dinner and wait. Arrived home 12 hours late but safe and with our luggage!

Still highly recommend!
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