HELP! Last minute itinerary change - ideas needed
Jan 10th, 2016, 05:04 PM
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HELP! Last minute itinerary change - ideas needed
Our two daughters (22 and 23) are currently traveling in South America and to date have had a wonderful time (Galapagos, Amazon in Ecuador, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca) , but now (In Puno) things have turned down a little for them. First the one got what she thought was food poisoning (on the day tour of Lake Titicaca ), and 14 hours later the second daughter got it …. but it seems even worse. Finally a doctor was called and he has diagnosed not only a bad case of bacteria, but also altitude sickness. Poor girl has been on oxygen, drips, antibiotics, anti-nausea medication etc. (The doctor also diagnosed a milder case of altitude sickness in the other daughter)
They were due to take the bus from Puno to La Paz this morning, but have forfeited and rebooked for tomorrow morning. They are then due to fly to Uyuni tomorrow night to see the Salt Flats (4 nights) before flying back to La Paz (2 nights), flying on to Lima (4 nights), then to Santiago (1 day) before heading home again to Australia.
I have read that sometimes the only option for altitude sickness is to descend to a lower altitude. Neither La Paz nor Uyuni fit into that category. I am hopeful that our youngest will recover quickly and her much longed for trip to the Salt Flats will eventuate. I am however trying to be a little forward thinking. If she is not up to staying at such a high altitude, what alternative itinerary can anyone suggest as I cannot imagine that Lima for 10 nights would be interesting? My knowledge of South America is sketchy to say the least, and I thought if they have to replan it would be nice if I could suggest something else interesting for them to do.
Thank you so much for your help.
They were due to take the bus from Puno to La Paz this morning, but have forfeited and rebooked for tomorrow morning. They are then due to fly to Uyuni tomorrow night to see the Salt Flats (4 nights) before flying back to La Paz (2 nights), flying on to Lima (4 nights), then to Santiago (1 day) before heading home again to Australia.
I have read that sometimes the only option for altitude sickness is to descend to a lower altitude. Neither La Paz nor Uyuni fit into that category. I am hopeful that our youngest will recover quickly and her much longed for trip to the Salt Flats will eventuate. I am however trying to be a little forward thinking. If she is not up to staying at such a high altitude, what alternative itinerary can anyone suggest as I cannot imagine that Lima for 10 nights would be interesting? My knowledge of South America is sketchy to say the least, and I thought if they have to replan it would be nice if I could suggest something else interesting for them to do.
Thank you so much for your help.
Jan 10th, 2016, 05:48 PM
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It is true that the cure is to go to a lower altitude and that might be the best idea for them. On the Uyuni salt flats it can be very miserable if you are feeling bad and you are far from everything. On the other hand, they may feel better tomorrow once they adjust a bit to the altitude.
However, if they do have to go to Lima they could spend a couple of days there and then head south to Paracas to see the Isla Ballestas or a bit further south to see the Nazca lines.
However, if they do have to go to Lima they could spend a couple of days there and then head south to Paracas to see the Isla Ballestas or a bit further south to see the Nazca lines.
Jan 11th, 2016, 12:59 AM
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The important thing is not to panic and make any rash decisions and just give up on the trip to the salt flats as they could both start to feel better pretty soon.
i would stress that I am not a doctor but have travelled extensively in that part of the world and both my wife and I have been affected by altitude and by food poisoning to one degree or another. I was affect on my first trip to Cusco and, on the same trip, my wife became ill on Taquile island on titicaca - we both recovered within a day or two.
Firstly, the antibiotics usually start working in 24-48 hours and so should take of the food poisoning, sickness, diarrhoea etc. Making travel easier/possible. Sound as thought the other key concern of hydration has been taken care of with the drips, again that should yield results very quickly.
Secondly, yes, the effects of altitude will be alleviated by going to a lower altitude. It is spending the night that matters more than the day. La Paz varies in altitude from 4100m at the airport to around 3100 in the southern end - so aim to stay somewhere in the lower end of the city. The main part of the city is around 3500, so it will be a little lower which is a good thing as they wont lose too much of the acclimatisation already achieved. A couple of days at altitude does make a huge difference to the acclimatisation process.
The salt flats are one of the wonders of South America and I would really try to go if at all possible, but it is high ( only one point is higher than where they have already been) and it is very remote. If they do decide to go ahead , make sure there jeep has oxygen.
As for alternative itinerary, I would probably be thinking of heading to Arequipa, an absolutely beautiful town in southern Peru ( at a reasonable altitude of 2500m). Usually lots of fiestas, great food and, of course, the Colca Canyon ( parts at altitude but not for long). Easier to get there from Puno than la Paz ( but there may be flights from LP to Arq)
Arequipa is worth 3-4 days IMO before getting the busnorth stopping off at the places Huentutu has already suggested - Paracas, Isla Ballesta and possibly Huanchancina. Even if they did fly back to Lima they could always fly to Arequipa and work their way back.
As Huentutu says, they may well feel better tomorrow and, fingers crossed, they can go ahead with plan b. Do return and let us know how it pans out.
i would stress that I am not a doctor but have travelled extensively in that part of the world and both my wife and I have been affected by altitude and by food poisoning to one degree or another. I was affect on my first trip to Cusco and, on the same trip, my wife became ill on Taquile island on titicaca - we both recovered within a day or two.
Firstly, the antibiotics usually start working in 24-48 hours and so should take of the food poisoning, sickness, diarrhoea etc. Making travel easier/possible. Sound as thought the other key concern of hydration has been taken care of with the drips, again that should yield results very quickly.
Secondly, yes, the effects of altitude will be alleviated by going to a lower altitude. It is spending the night that matters more than the day. La Paz varies in altitude from 4100m at the airport to around 3100 in the southern end - so aim to stay somewhere in the lower end of the city. The main part of the city is around 3500, so it will be a little lower which is a good thing as they wont lose too much of the acclimatisation already achieved. A couple of days at altitude does make a huge difference to the acclimatisation process.
The salt flats are one of the wonders of South America and I would really try to go if at all possible, but it is high ( only one point is higher than where they have already been) and it is very remote. If they do decide to go ahead , make sure there jeep has oxygen.
As for alternative itinerary, I would probably be thinking of heading to Arequipa, an absolutely beautiful town in southern Peru ( at a reasonable altitude of 2500m). Usually lots of fiestas, great food and, of course, the Colca Canyon ( parts at altitude but not for long). Easier to get there from Puno than la Paz ( but there may be flights from LP to Arq)
Arequipa is worth 3-4 days IMO before getting the busnorth stopping off at the places Huentutu has already suggested - Paracas, Isla Ballesta and possibly Huanchancina. Even if they did fly back to Lima they could always fly to Arequipa and work their way back.
As Huentutu says, they may well feel better tomorrow and, fingers crossed, they can go ahead with plan b. Do return and let us know how it pans out.
Jan 11th, 2016, 12:54 PM
#4
From Puno, they could take the bus to Arequipa, however it also goes over some fairly high altitude, so if they are not recovered in a few days then might be best to return to Lima by flying and travel along the coast.
As crellston mentioned there is Paracas, Huacachina, also Nazca, and then Arequipa.
I don't really think it is a great idea to go to the salt flats unless they first spend a more days at altitude (perhaps do the days in La Paz to be sure they have adjusted to altitude). If they do go, perhaps drop the southern part of the trip and just stick with the salt flats. The Sur Lipez lakes are very, very high.
I heard more than a few stories of people getting food poisoning and altitude sickness in Puno (questioning some of those trout dinners).
As crellston mentioned there is Paracas, Huacachina, also Nazca, and then Arequipa.
I don't really think it is a great idea to go to the salt flats unless they first spend a more days at altitude (perhaps do the days in La Paz to be sure they have adjusted to altitude). If they do go, perhaps drop the southern part of the trip and just stick with the salt flats. The Sur Lipez lakes are very, very high.
I heard more than a few stories of people getting food poisoning and altitude sickness in Puno (questioning some of those trout dinners).
Jan 11th, 2016, 05:41 PM
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Thank you all for your suggestions, and Crellston I really appreciated your experiences of altitude sickness / gastro.
Well, I am told our youngest was feeling much better upon waking (when she had another 30 minutes oxygen under doctors orders) and they took the 6am bus to La Paz. I gather it broke down meaning they missed their connection in Copacabana but between collectivo and taxi they made it to the airport in time for their flight to Uyuni. Said they are both feeling fine, so hopefully after a good night sleep they will be ready for the Salt Flats!?
I must admit I was surprised that they succumbed to altitude sickness when they did, as they had, I thought, headed upwards at a relatively good pace (after the Amazon, it was Sacred Valley 3 nights, Aguas Calientes 1 night, Cusco 3 nights, before Puno 2 nights - which ended up being 3 nights).
I will report back when they get back from the Salt Flats excursion in 3 days time.
Well, I am told our youngest was feeling much better upon waking (when she had another 30 minutes oxygen under doctors orders) and they took the 6am bus to La Paz. I gather it broke down meaning they missed their connection in Copacabana but between collectivo and taxi they made it to the airport in time for their flight to Uyuni. Said they are both feeling fine, so hopefully after a good night sleep they will be ready for the Salt Flats!?
I must admit I was surprised that they succumbed to altitude sickness when they did, as they had, I thought, headed upwards at a relatively good pace (after the Amazon, it was Sacred Valley 3 nights, Aguas Calientes 1 night, Cusco 3 nights, before Puno 2 nights - which ended up being 3 nights).
I will report back when they get back from the Salt Flats excursion in 3 days time.
Jan 12th, 2016, 12:23 AM
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Good to know your daughter is feeling better and they made it to their flight. Travel disruptions are a fact of daily life in Bolivia. Much of the time on the Salar tours is spent sitting in a jeep so they should get plenty of time to rest an recuperate. I would be great to hear their impression of the trip.
Jan 16th, 2016, 07:32 PM
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They had a fantastic trip and it seems I worried needlessly.
This is from my daughter's blog post:
Finally, after visiting Galápagos, Amazon, Sacred Valley Region and Lake Tiricaca we made it to Salar de Uyuni – the salt flats, somewhere I requested that we visit (my chosen destinations were Machu Picchu and the salt flats). A restful night in some lovely accommodation in Uyuni was what we needed to charge us for three full on days visiting south western Bolivia.
Day 1: Salt, salt, salt, and……, more salt.
Yep, you guessed right, today was a day focused on salt! The salt flats are 12,000 square kilometres and the salt is 20 meters deep, followed by 80 meters of salt water and 20 meters of mud.
We started at the train graveyard. Here trains used for mining were ‘retired’ – i.e. Essentially dumped. They and in various states of disrepair and rust but we were able to climb all over and in them. I have officially now been train hopping between the roofs of train carriages! Yes, naughty me!
The rest of the day was spent on the salt flats themselves. When it rains, water pools on the flats and the wind creates waves. Once he water evaporates you are left with many ridges of salt forming different shapes on the flats. They make a decided crunch when you walk on them, and many of us felt like we were walking on the moon, only with gravity! We took many touristy pictures and did a thirty minute bike ride on the flats. The ride was hard work in the full sun, over the bumpy flats and ones perception of distance is shot over such a large expanse of white nothingness its mountains on (or over) the horizon!
We visited two islands, rocky hills which protrude out of the salt and look exactly like islands! The first had giant cactuses on them, over 12 meters tall which equated to 1200 years old! Pretty amazing views from the top. The other island had a cave with beautiful views from as well.
Last stop for the day was to watch sunset. We were very lucky with a sunny day, but a few clouds around to catch the suns rays. Beautiful!
Day 2: Lakes, Deserts, Volcanoes and a few more lakes
We started the day visiting a stone army. The landscape is desert like with sand and rocks. The rocks were plentiful and due to wind erosion all looked like they were facing one direction ready for combat! Many of the sights today made me think of Mars, the lack of vegetation and otherworldliness of the scenery!
We stopped for a few photo opportunities of the desert and extinct volcanoes. Then we reached the lakes in the afternoon. Many of the lakes have flamingoes in them and take on different colours due to the volcanic sediment in the water. With the extinct volcanoes framing the lake, they are all rather spectacular! However, in the afternoon the wind picked up which blew sand into faces and made it quite chilly, it was so strong you could lean into it and it would hold you up, or you could feel it shaking the car!
We also visited a stone tree, which reminded me of mushroom rock in Jordon (which was better by the way). The highest point we reached was 4700 meters, and our accommodation was at 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 3: Volcanoes and back to Uyuni
Up bright and early this morning for breakfast at 4am – 12 hours of driving today (with some stops o course)! We drove up and into a volcano to see the gotheemal activity, with the temperature at minus 5, the smoke with the sunrise was impressive but cold! This was the highest point of the trip at 5000 meters above sea level. Then went to some hot springs, which I think was probably the prettiest lake of the whole trip! After visiting green lake (which turns green when it is windy but there was not a breath of air this morning thankfully) we turned around and headed back to Uyuni.
Tour Observations:
Our guide is the most enthusiastic person I think I have met. He has been guiding in the area for two years, but still displays obvious pleasure at taking all the touristy photos, playing with the volcanic steam jet, or jumping in the hot springs! At times it is like he is the youngest in the tour group, not me!
Our group consists of ten people, four Pommies and six Aussies. We are in two four wheel drives and Laura and I were lucky enough to be in a car with two Brits and a guide and drive. It means we have one less person than the other car, and the guide is great at answering questions about what we are seeing, Bolivian lifestyle or history!
The roads are all dirt, often with multiple tracks leading off into every which direction and some real four wheel driving over rocks when going up hills. I can understand how people can get lost! Being dirt roads, I feel like I have consumed a lifetime worth of dust! But, I have seen two groups of people cycling who must be insane with the sand, altitude, wind and cold nights when camping!
Our accommodation for the first night was better than expected with private room and bathroom. The second night was a dorm and shared toilets (no showers). This had rocks holding down them tin roof and you could hear (and often feel) the cold. Wind rattling the building. However were warm at night and slept well.
We were told to bring lots of snacks as food was plain and simple. Not certain what I was expecting, but we have had vegetable soup, alpaca steak, chicken schnitzel, pasta, mashed potatoes, sausages and veggies. Certainly haven’t gone hungry (except for the time between an early breakfast and late lunch, or early lunch and late dinner, and this is where snacks came out!)
I really enjoyed the tour. It reinforces my love of the desert, though I have no desire to live in one. The are beautiful yet desolate places!
A day and a half in La Paz before returning to sea level at Lima. Countdown to coming home is unfortunately starting!
This is from my daughter's blog post:
Finally, after visiting Galápagos, Amazon, Sacred Valley Region and Lake Tiricaca we made it to Salar de Uyuni – the salt flats, somewhere I requested that we visit (my chosen destinations were Machu Picchu and the salt flats). A restful night in some lovely accommodation in Uyuni was what we needed to charge us for three full on days visiting south western Bolivia.
Day 1: Salt, salt, salt, and……, more salt.
Yep, you guessed right, today was a day focused on salt! The salt flats are 12,000 square kilometres and the salt is 20 meters deep, followed by 80 meters of salt water and 20 meters of mud.
We started at the train graveyard. Here trains used for mining were ‘retired’ – i.e. Essentially dumped. They and in various states of disrepair and rust but we were able to climb all over and in them. I have officially now been train hopping between the roofs of train carriages! Yes, naughty me!
The rest of the day was spent on the salt flats themselves. When it rains, water pools on the flats and the wind creates waves. Once he water evaporates you are left with many ridges of salt forming different shapes on the flats. They make a decided crunch when you walk on them, and many of us felt like we were walking on the moon, only with gravity! We took many touristy pictures and did a thirty minute bike ride on the flats. The ride was hard work in the full sun, over the bumpy flats and ones perception of distance is shot over such a large expanse of white nothingness its mountains on (or over) the horizon!
We visited two islands, rocky hills which protrude out of the salt and look exactly like islands! The first had giant cactuses on them, over 12 meters tall which equated to 1200 years old! Pretty amazing views from the top. The other island had a cave with beautiful views from as well.
Last stop for the day was to watch sunset. We were very lucky with a sunny day, but a few clouds around to catch the suns rays. Beautiful!
Day 2: Lakes, Deserts, Volcanoes and a few more lakes
We started the day visiting a stone army. The landscape is desert like with sand and rocks. The rocks were plentiful and due to wind erosion all looked like they were facing one direction ready for combat! Many of the sights today made me think of Mars, the lack of vegetation and otherworldliness of the scenery!
We stopped for a few photo opportunities of the desert and extinct volcanoes. Then we reached the lakes in the afternoon. Many of the lakes have flamingoes in them and take on different colours due to the volcanic sediment in the water. With the extinct volcanoes framing the lake, they are all rather spectacular! However, in the afternoon the wind picked up which blew sand into faces and made it quite chilly, it was so strong you could lean into it and it would hold you up, or you could feel it shaking the car!
We also visited a stone tree, which reminded me of mushroom rock in Jordon (which was better by the way). The highest point we reached was 4700 meters, and our accommodation was at 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 3: Volcanoes and back to Uyuni
Up bright and early this morning for breakfast at 4am – 12 hours of driving today (with some stops o course)! We drove up and into a volcano to see the gotheemal activity, with the temperature at minus 5, the smoke with the sunrise was impressive but cold! This was the highest point of the trip at 5000 meters above sea level. Then went to some hot springs, which I think was probably the prettiest lake of the whole trip! After visiting green lake (which turns green when it is windy but there was not a breath of air this morning thankfully) we turned around and headed back to Uyuni.
Tour Observations:
Our guide is the most enthusiastic person I think I have met. He has been guiding in the area for two years, but still displays obvious pleasure at taking all the touristy photos, playing with the volcanic steam jet, or jumping in the hot springs! At times it is like he is the youngest in the tour group, not me!
Our group consists of ten people, four Pommies and six Aussies. We are in two four wheel drives and Laura and I were lucky enough to be in a car with two Brits and a guide and drive. It means we have one less person than the other car, and the guide is great at answering questions about what we are seeing, Bolivian lifestyle or history!
The roads are all dirt, often with multiple tracks leading off into every which direction and some real four wheel driving over rocks when going up hills. I can understand how people can get lost! Being dirt roads, I feel like I have consumed a lifetime worth of dust! But, I have seen two groups of people cycling who must be insane with the sand, altitude, wind and cold nights when camping!
Our accommodation for the first night was better than expected with private room and bathroom. The second night was a dorm and shared toilets (no showers). This had rocks holding down them tin roof and you could hear (and often feel) the cold. Wind rattling the building. However were warm at night and slept well.
We were told to bring lots of snacks as food was plain and simple. Not certain what I was expecting, but we have had vegetable soup, alpaca steak, chicken schnitzel, pasta, mashed potatoes, sausages and veggies. Certainly haven’t gone hungry (except for the time between an early breakfast and late lunch, or early lunch and late dinner, and this is where snacks came out!)
I really enjoyed the tour. It reinforces my love of the desert, though I have no desire to live in one. The are beautiful yet desolate places!
A day and a half in La Paz before returning to sea level at Lima. Countdown to coming home is unfortunately starting!
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