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Ecuador Trip Plan: What did we get right and wrong?

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Ecuador Trip Plan: What did we get right and wrong?

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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 02:20 PM
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Few comments

There are PLENTY of hotels near the airport, of all types. Place names include Puembo and Tabebela. You don't need to stay at an ugly Wyndham. It's a good idea to not go into Quito for just a night. It adds an hour or more to your trip just getting into and across Quito. If you arrive early, why not head straight for Otavalo?

If you are just going to Otavalo for the market, why? Cajas is beautiful for hiking. It isn't far from Cuenca at all. Gualaceo is a town with an interesting market, they roast guinea pigs on spits. And I think there is also an animal market near Quilotoa? I would perhaps look at spending more time around there, and in Banos, and maybe skip Otavalo? Have you looked at how difficult the hike is around Quilotoa, you may want to do just part of it (read crellston's blog).

Why Riobamba..it's kind of a dump from what I saw going through on the bus. Maybe someone else has something better to say about it, but I can't recall reading anything. Would Latacunga work better?

I don't think I'd go out of my way to do the Devil's Nose Train and I didn't go to Ingapirca for the same reasons as yestravel. I think you will find that the actual train ride itself is VERY short. I did it, but I had lots of time and also spent the night in Alausi. But if you are then going to Guayaquil, isn't Alausi sort of on the way? So it might be worth looking into continuing on from there. Note that although the name is romantic, the thrill of riding on top of the cars is no longer possible.

I absolutely HATED the Mitad del Mundo. Maybe your kids will find it more fun, though, if they want to do those tricks with eggs and toilet water.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 02:28 PM
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Re drivers/taxis, I used them a few times but it was for drives that were only a few hours, and coming from Quito (eg Quito to Latacunga, to San Isidro Lodge on the east slope, and to and from Mindo.) The price was always $100 but it was not a large van, just a truck, car taxi or SUV.

I know yestravel got some kind of back problem from riding a bus, but I didn't have any problems with them, although some are newer than others...eg I had a nice new bus from Quito direct to Banos. Between Banos and Alausi the buses were older, though. If you have a trip of just a few hours, a bus might save you a fortune...the fares are roughly $1 per hour of driving.

BTW I flew round trip Quito to Cuenca,and it wasn't expensive. It might be worth looking into at least a one way flight there...not sure how they price out for OW. My schedule was really messed up by Road Scholar cancelling my Galapagos trip so I had a lot of out and back travel.

One thing to bear in mind is that Ecuador is actually pretty small, and the main roads between cities are good, except for very sharp curbs and ditches which can get you in trouble if you hit one. It's when you decide to go to places not on the main road that you will hit one lane gravel curvy kind of scary mountain roads.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 02:56 PM
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Last year we stayed at the Garden Hotel San Jose in Puembo for a late night/early morning layover. It was a lovely property (although friends who also stayed there could hear airplanes) with friendly staff. They offer airport transportation.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 03:04 PM
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Regarding Galapagos accommodations in Puerto Ayora, last year we stayed at Hotel Silberstein, this year we are renting an apartment for a week before our cruise (we have friends who live there.) Eating at the Kiosks is a great way to spend the evening. If you're in town, the outdoor market is a fun way to shop for groceries, or just browse what the locals are eating.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 03:08 PM
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Oops, preview didn't work. The SATURDAY outdoor market is a fun way to shop for groceries. Probably not worthwhile if you're only staying for a few days.
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Old Apr 12th, 2016, 11:18 PM
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Re mlgb's comments - The market near Latacunga is at Saquisquilli and only operates one day a week, I think on a Thursday. It is massive and probably the best market in Equador. More like six markets spread around the village. It is only 20-30 mins from Latacunga but was one of the worst bus journeys I have ever done around 60 people squeezed into a 40 seater bus accompanied by more than a few live chickens and at least one pig!

Riobamba is a pleasant enough town with some nice eating places but not a huge amount going on. I think the main reason the OP is going there is for the bike ride down Chimborazo which is magnificent and worth the visit just for that. Also handy for the train and I am considering using that to head north ( but can't seem to find much info on trains at the moment?)

I agree with mlgb re bus travel in Ecuador. The longer routes seem to employ better buses. Not up to the standard of as Peru or Argentina but much better than Bolivia. The shorter local routes however can be "interesting" expect to share your seat with someone - maybe a human , maybe not. Always check the overhead racks for chickens and avoid sitting underneath

As far as hiking is concerned, quilatoa is tough at that altitude. We were well acclimatised after two months in the country and still suffered a little on our hike. I think the altitude is around 3900m which is very high. If you go there after just a few days I would be very wary of any of the longer hikes ( say from quilatoa to Chughilan) as the terrain is not easy. If you are just going to the crater, hiking down to the lake should be fine but make sure you book a mule to get back up! Some nice hikes around just Round the crater rim if it's not windy.

We are considering following yestravel's lead in getting a car from Latacunga to Otavalo on this trip, as changing buses in Quito always seems to involve an inordinate amount of time and we don't really want to spend much, or any time in Quito. We may even consider a one way rental say from Cuenca to Latacunga if it is not a total rip off.
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 04:02 PM
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Crellston - when you say, "getting a car." Does that mean renting a car? Latacunga didn't have any rentals that we could find. We went to Abato which was about an hour bus ride from Latacunga. Same was true for Otavalo. We were doing this on the fly so it's possible we missed an agent somewhere. There was the direct bus to Otavalo that bypassed Quito which you picked up on the PanAmerican highway.
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 07:21 PM
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You might look into just hiring a taxi from Latacunga to a bus station/stop at the north end of Quito where you catch a bus to Otavalo.

They should take the bypass highway so you wont have to deal with going thru much if any of Quito proper.
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Old Apr 13th, 2016, 10:02 PM
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Buy getting a car I meant a car and driver from Latacunga to Otavalo similar to what you did YT, I suppose renting a car in Cuenca and dropping off in Latcaunga isn't going happen if there are no agencies there.

Good idea re hiring a car just to the northern bus station mlgb. Even better I suppose would be if I could sort the train from Latacunga to Quito and then stay over in the old city just for a night.
We leave in a few weeks so will try and post my outline route soon for a reality/sanity check and no doubt lots of questions esp. Re Colombia
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 07:38 AM
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Thank you everyone! This has been so helpful. Crellston I love your manner of speaking!
We are trying to figure out how to minimalize travel time and crunch our days together in hopes of adding on the Galapagos if only for a few days. We were brainstorming this and realized we don’t need to take the time to go to Guayaquil if we “start” in Cuenca and head north. We just (possibly) turned the whole trip upside down, so please tell me what I am missing here.

(TH) Travel to Ecuador. Arrival at midnight. Flight at 6:20 to Cuenca. We may just stay in the airport. If there is a clean, low cost place nearby to grab a couple of hours of sleep we may do that.

(FR) Early morning flight to Cuenca. Is it safe to leave our bags in our hotel while we explore the city? Early flight comes in at 7. My dream would be to clean up and refresh before heading out to see Cuenca.I expect everyone to be exhausted. Maybe an early check in or partial day rate so we can store our luggage? Don’t know if we need a driver or just a taxi to the hotel. Thoughts?

(SAT) Cajas National Park. Guide? Should we stay in Cuenca that night or have a late afternoon transfer to Banos? Suggestions?

(SUN) All activities in Banos can be switched around days. Valley of the Waterfalls Cycling. To Puyo? Worried about getting back but we would like to see the edge of the Amazon.

(MON) Rafting, canyoning and/or the thermal baths. Maybe this is when we just get a ride to Puyo?

(TU) Bike tour of Chimbarazo. We can stay in Banos (one less move for us) or move to Riobamba? It looks like Posada Del Arte has biking, dining, lodging packages. We are not high end cyclers but we can all ride. Very exciting to see they have a relationship that will guide us to bike down Chimbarazo.

(WEDS, THURS, FRI) The next few days are tricky. We still want to see Quilotoa, Quito, a traditional Ecuadoran market (preferably with the animals, produce, spices etc., not as much the factory made stuff) and I had hoped to see the area around Otavalo like Cuicocha Lake and the Condor Center, the Peguche Falls. It looks like there is a five hour drive from Quilotoa to Otavalo. So maybe we’ll have seen enough waterfalls and beautiful scenery. Maybe we should just stay in the Quilotoa area Weds and Thursday? I know there is another market (Saquisili?) closer to Quilotoa on Thursdays. We thought about basing in Quito and coming out each of these places but we generally prefer to stay in the country side more than the city. La Cienga looks pretty neat and maybe there is enough to see (natural beauty) around the Quilotoa area that we don’t need to go to Otavalo area. I keep hearing the scenery is beautiful in both areas. We still want to see Quito and there is at least one in our group DEAD SET on being at the Equator. The stamping the passport there is pretty neat for my guys.

My current plan for these days looks something like:
Depending on where we stay Tuesday night—travel next morning to Quilotoa area (Latacunga?) or travel in the evening. (That may change the order of what we do in Banos.) If we can hike, maybe horseback ride and see a market maybe we will just stay in this area. Wednesday and Thursday.
On Friday we can tour Quito.Cathedral, Equator, Telerifico We would need a place to store our bags if we do this. We can stay in Quito and travel home after or if the price is right travel on to Galapagos for a few days. BTW flying to Cuenca was $64 between the time to travel and hiring drivers we feel this was worth it. We are leaning toward hiring drivers because our days are so packed we don't want to have to worry about the driving too.
Thanks again for your insights and opinions!
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 02:08 PM
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crellston, I assume you've tried to figure out things on the trenecuador.com website? You may need to click on each defined route and then look at the maps. I was able to buy my tickets on it last year. In fact my hotel recommended buying them online as the best way.

Hang20, the airport is pretty comfortable for hanging out. There are lots of lodgings within 15 or 20 minutes, but I don't know what you consider inexpensive. I liked Posada Mirolindo, if that works for you, or try booking.com

www.posadamirolindo.com

I have never had a problem with luggage storage at hotels yet. Many flights are early (I think because the weather often worsens during the afternoon).

I'm not sure if you realize how long it takes to get from Cuenca to Banos. Even by car it's a long winding road. (I flew back to Quito and did the travel to Banos by bus, which is about 4 hours). So if it isn't much more you might want to look into that.

Finding activities in Banos is easy, the public baths are open early to late, and just need a few hours. There are "party buses" to the Devil's Throat, and I doubt it would be difficult to rent bikes whenever you wanted them. It is a tourist-oriented town but pleasant.

As far as markets, its a matter of being in the right town on the right day. Even Cuenca has an interesting covered market near the center of town. Gualaceo outside of Cuenca is also very interesting.

I had collected this info a while ago, but it's probably still good.

Here are the market days in various villages (secondary market day in parentheses):

Monday - Ambato, Loja.

Tuesday - (Latacunga), Quito (clothing and crafts, Avenida 24 de Mayo and Calle Benalcazar).

Wednesday - (Ambato), (Otavalo), Quito (Santa Clara Market, La Floresta Market).

Thursday - Cuenca, Saquisili, Tulcan.

Friday - (Ambato), Tzalaron.

Saturday - Azogues, Cotacachi, (Cuenca), Guano, Guaranda, Latacunga, Otavalo, Pelileo, (Quito, clothing and craft market - see Tuesday), Riobamba, Zumbahua.

Sunday - Alausi, Biblian, Canar, Chordeleg, Gualaceo, Guamote, Licto, Machachi, Peguche, Pujili, (Quito, Santa Clara Market), Salcedo, Sangolqui, Saraguro, Sigsig, (Tulcan).
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 02:38 PM
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I think a driver is the way to go for you. You can kick back and relax between stops.

If you arrive at midnight into Quito by the time you go thru customs and get your bags it will be close to 1. Your flight leaves at 6:20 so you will need to be at the airport no later than 5:20. With the exception of the Wydham on the airport property most places to stay are about 10-15 minutes drive. That leaves you with ~4 hours. You will also need to check into a hotel. You are not going to have much time to sleep, so staying in the airport may be the way to go. Not sure of the prices of the Wyndham, but I bet not inexpensive.

I would imagine it will be safe to leave your bags at your hotel in Cuenca. I would definitely get an early check in and pay if need be. You all will be exhausted. Plus you have the altitude of ~8000 ft in Cuenca

Quilota and Otavalo are very different with different scenery and sites. I would want to experience both.

I would stay in Cuenca when you do El Cajas. I would not go in the late afternoon to Banos -- It took us ~7 hours from Cuenca - that was with stops. You really want to go in the sunlight so you can enjoy the beautiful scenery. Unless you plan to use it as time to sleep?

Too bad you need to waste time at the Equator. I did not hear one good thing about it while in Ecuador. But I get that one of your kids wants to go. Its something my son would have wanted to see.
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Old Apr 14th, 2016, 02:42 PM
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If you stay at the small place that I mentioned above, check in takes about 5 minutes. Not an issue.
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Old Apr 16th, 2016, 08:24 AM
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Mlgb - I have tried using that site but gave up. I don't think it is designed to work with an iPad (that's my excuse anyway!) . I will give it another try when in the vicinity of a pc. BTW excellent info on the market days - v. Useful for our upcoming trip.

hang20 - I think your itinerary is looking pretty good subject to the comments above. Definitely stay in Cuenca to do Cajas NP.

I had a look at the posada deal Artes and it seems they use Biking Spirit for their bike trips. Edison, who I think is the owner, was our guide for our Chimborazo trip and he was excellent. The fact that he was a double for Robert Downey Jnr was and added bonus as far as my wife was concerned!

Banos would be preferable as a place to stay rather than Riobamba if that works in with your other plans.

I agree with yestravel re the equator monument - it took us ages to get there and when we did, to say I was underwhelmed was an understatement. I really wish we hadn't bothered. Teleferico, on the other hand was definitely worth the effort. Also possible to get your horse riding fix there - although the horses did look a little on the sad and scrawny side ( but I am no expert where horses are involved)
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Old Apr 22nd, 2016, 06:10 AM
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This last minute cruise site puts you in touch with the ship owners - but only 15 ships. galapagoscruiselinks.com
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Old Apr 25th, 2016, 08:47 AM
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Thanks mpatry. I'll look into it.

Crellston Is is possible to do Teleferico, Colonial Quito and the Equator in one day? I don't have a good feel for how hard it is to get from place to place. My crew is very energetic. We tend to do very long days while on vacation.

I had a friend throw a monkey wrench in my plans. Said there is no way we can bike Chimbarazo after being in the country only a couple of days. I am guessing he is right. We may have to flip the whole vacay again. Any suggestions on things we can do to "train" for high altitude?

The agent I'm working with said we need to stay in Riobamba. Hummm it may actually work out and just travel the next morning to Cuenca.
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Old Apr 25th, 2016, 09:28 AM
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"Need to"?

Ask them why.
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Old Apr 25th, 2016, 11:37 AM
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"Is is possible to do Teleferico, Colonial Quito and the Equator in one day?" it is possible but I wouldn't want to do it. Way too rushed ( and I was distinctly underwhelmed by the equator monument and really wouldn't bother). I would be inclined just to do the old city, where it is easy to spend a whole day and then add Teleferico if it is a clear day.

There isn't much you can do to train for high altitude. It just takes time. Everyone is affected to some extent, it is a question of how much. Age, sex and fitness levels have little influence on how you might be affected. The best thing to do is take it easy for the first few days at altitude and try to ascend gradually - easier said than done in The Andes.

Here is a link which provides some pretty good advice on how best to adjust http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Altitud...revention.aspx

Consult your doctor for specific advice but drugs such as Acetazolamide aka Diamox can help when going straight to high altitude and could make life a bit easier.

Despite what your friend says, I wouldn't entirely discount Chimborazo. Our first time at altitude was climbing mount Kinabalu in Borneo which at 4400 m is a similar altitude to the starting point for the bike ride on Chimborazo. We did that in 24 hours and on foot and yes, it was a struggle to put it mildly! On Chimborazo you get to the starting point for the bike ride by jeep so there is minimal exertion. Obviously it is downhill from there! Plus the jeep will follow you all the way back so, if the going is to tough for anyone, you can just get back in the jeep.


One important factor to remember is that it is the altitude at which you sleep that is the most important consideration. Much, much better to sleep at a lower altitude than the highest altitude you hit during the day, as it is at night when the effects of altitude are usually felt. Yes you will get breathless at 4500 m on Chimborazo, but you would only be at that altitude for an hour or so before descending (quite rapidly on those bikes!!). You would then sleep at the much lower altitude of either Riobamba or Cuenca - both are around 2700m I think.

I can't stress enough that it does pay to travel at a slower pace at altitude than you would at sea level, at least until you get used to the altitude. Better to leave out one destination than to try and cram in one too many.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 09:16 AM
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mlgb I think the "need to" meant staying in Banos or Riobamba to bike Chimborazo. The agent I'm talking with said Riobamba was much closer to Chimborazo. If we do decide to go from north to south, it would make more sense in a linear fashion but if the concensus here is to stay in Banos, travel to Chimborazo, back to Banos and from there head to Cuenca, we will. I have no attachment to either place.

Crellston Our travelling pace is hectic for a lot of people. I like to relax a little more but it relaxing usually results in fights between our boys. We are back on the route closer to the original. Aside from the questions about if it was too soon to ride down the mountain we would travel all night then try to tour Cuenca. I think I'll enjoy it more if everyone has rested.

I'll check out that web site. Thanks.
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