Crellston and Others
Dec 11th, 2013, 06:27 AM
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Crellston and Others
This time we are really retiring!
Just got back from SEA and back at work and already planning our retirement trip next fall to South America.
Mid-sixties, active, healthy, husband speaks ok Spanish.
Have been following Crellston's adventure and would like some advice.
1. Is Lima a good entrance city (best use of our miles).
2. We like the idea of a one way ticket so we can be flexible. Will this be a problem when entering various SA countries?
3. We plan on at least 3-6 months. Is that enough time to see a good bit?
4. We will need at least a couple of "rest stops" where we spend a week or more. Any suggestions?
5. Loaded question but ideas on budget? No high end hotels but smaller hotels, guesthouse, BnB. Perhaps an apartment in our rest up areas.
6. We plan on leaving in October. Any downside to that?
7. For those of you who have spent prolonged time in SA, would you do it again?
Any suggestions appreciated as we start the planning process. Thank you.
Just got back from SEA and back at work and already planning our retirement trip next fall to South America.
Mid-sixties, active, healthy, husband speaks ok Spanish.
Have been following Crellston's adventure and would like some advice.
1. Is Lima a good entrance city (best use of our miles).
2. We like the idea of a one way ticket so we can be flexible. Will this be a problem when entering various SA countries?
3. We plan on at least 3-6 months. Is that enough time to see a good bit?
4. We will need at least a couple of "rest stops" where we spend a week or more. Any suggestions?
5. Loaded question but ideas on budget? No high end hotels but smaller hotels, guesthouse, BnB. Perhaps an apartment in our rest up areas.
6. We plan on leaving in October. Any downside to that?
7. For those of you who have spent prolonged time in SA, would you do it again?
Any suggestions appreciated as we start the planning process. Thank you.
Dec 11th, 2013, 07:12 AM
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Avrooster, i have been reading your fabulous input on this forum for years so hope your later is sooner. Headed question with Crellston because it seems they are on a similar quest.
Thank you.....
Thank you.....
Dec 11th, 2013, 07:31 AM
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Just kidding, cindyjo.
Besides quite a traveler, you sound quite nice, so I'm available any time, particularly for more specific questions about Argentina.
You are, of course, aware of the fact that you will be travelling during our winter?
Our NW is wonderful in July/Aug.
I would say one of your "rest stops" could well be in BA, in an apartment.
Top poster (and TA BA DE) MarnieWDC knows all about that, but they come during our summer and stay in a flat in Palermo, for about two months.
Besides quite a traveler, you sound quite nice, so I'm available any time, particularly for more specific questions about Argentina.
You are, of course, aware of the fact that you will be travelling during our winter?
Our NW is wonderful in July/Aug.
I would say one of your "rest stops" could well be in BA, in an apartment.
Top poster (and TA BA DE) MarnieWDC knows all about that, but they come during our summer and stay in a flat in Palermo, for about two months.
Dec 11th, 2013, 08:32 AM
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Correcting my: "You are, of course, aware of the fact that you will be travelling during our winter?"
I thought you meant you would be LEAVING south America in October. Now I realized you meant you will be LEAVING the US in October, which means you will be travelling during our spring and summer.
You may even get to meet Marnie in BA, if she and DH come again in early 2015!
I thought you meant you would be LEAVING south America in October. Now I realized you meant you will be LEAVING the US in October, which means you will be travelling during our spring and summer.
You may even get to meet Marnie in BA, if she and DH come again in early 2015!
Dec 11th, 2013, 08:59 AM
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Cindyjo,
1. I think Lima is a good choice as an entry point. We gave the city a "second chance" on the advice of mlgb and fell in love with the city. In fact we spent our last month in South America in Lima.
2. I did look at a one way ticket but found that I could get an "open jaw" return for the same price. In our case we flew in to Quito and out of Lima. We had no problems entering any countries. In fact no one even asked to see our tickets on entry. It may be different for twenty something backpackers but unfortunately those days are long gone!
3. 3-6 months is a good amount of time. We went for 6 and did not regret it. Although in hindsight, I could have planned our itinerary a little better but we did want to keep an element of flexibility.
4. Very sensible to plan some rest stops along the way. Travel exhaustion can kick in no matter how much you are enjoying it. Apart from our last month in Lima we rented an apartment in Arequipa for 2-3 weeks and spent 10 days in a nice Hostal in Sucre, Bolivia. Cuenca in Ecuador was also a fantastic place to spend a week. In 2008 we finished off our RTW trip with a month in Avrooster's beloved Buenos Aires (even lunching with the man himself and his delightful wife). Salta, Argentina was also another favourite place.
We also tended to try and spend 3-5 nights in most places rather than moving on after just one night. We travelled light but it was great to unpack completely and also to do our own cooking. It is also cheaper than constantly being on the move.
5. As for budget, apart from the apartments we stayed in we tended to go for hostals, B&Bs etc. usually, but not always, with private bathroom. I would say around half the time, the places we stayed in had some form of cooking facilities which also kept costs down ( even more importantly, it is great fun shopping in the markets and creating dishes from strange ingredients). Costs obviously vary from country to country with Chile and Argentina being the most expensive and Ecuador and Bolivia the cheapest. I would say we averaged around $60-70 per day including everything - accommodation, food, travel tours and entrance fees. We weren't especially extravagant, nor did we stint on anything. Even the occasional meals we had at upscale restaurants were ridiculously cheap by UK standards.
6. I think October would be a pretty good time generally but it is VERY important to do your research, here or elsewhere to make sure you are in the right place at the right time weather-wise. We were there from may to nov when much the pacific coast was swathed in the Garua which did not make for great beach time. Altitude is probably as big a factor as time of year as well. If you have not been at altitude before, do not underestimate the effects and take it easy when first at altitude for the first few days
7. Would I do it again? We spent 5 months in SA in 2008 and 6 months again this year and I would go back in a heartbeat!
As you are in the early planning stages I would strongly suggest you spend some time researching the weather, high seasons etc. in each of the places on your short list and start from there.
Hope this helps a little. Happy to help out with any specifics ( inc. places to stay) as and when.
Good luck and happy planning
1. I think Lima is a good choice as an entry point. We gave the city a "second chance" on the advice of mlgb and fell in love with the city. In fact we spent our last month in South America in Lima.
2. I did look at a one way ticket but found that I could get an "open jaw" return for the same price. In our case we flew in to Quito and out of Lima. We had no problems entering any countries. In fact no one even asked to see our tickets on entry. It may be different for twenty something backpackers but unfortunately those days are long gone!
3. 3-6 months is a good amount of time. We went for 6 and did not regret it. Although in hindsight, I could have planned our itinerary a little better but we did want to keep an element of flexibility.
4. Very sensible to plan some rest stops along the way. Travel exhaustion can kick in no matter how much you are enjoying it. Apart from our last month in Lima we rented an apartment in Arequipa for 2-3 weeks and spent 10 days in a nice Hostal in Sucre, Bolivia. Cuenca in Ecuador was also a fantastic place to spend a week. In 2008 we finished off our RTW trip with a month in Avrooster's beloved Buenos Aires (even lunching with the man himself and his delightful wife). Salta, Argentina was also another favourite place.
We also tended to try and spend 3-5 nights in most places rather than moving on after just one night. We travelled light but it was great to unpack completely and also to do our own cooking. It is also cheaper than constantly being on the move.
5. As for budget, apart from the apartments we stayed in we tended to go for hostals, B&Bs etc. usually, but not always, with private bathroom. I would say around half the time, the places we stayed in had some form of cooking facilities which also kept costs down ( even more importantly, it is great fun shopping in the markets and creating dishes from strange ingredients). Costs obviously vary from country to country with Chile and Argentina being the most expensive and Ecuador and Bolivia the cheapest. I would say we averaged around $60-70 per day including everything - accommodation, food, travel tours and entrance fees. We weren't especially extravagant, nor did we stint on anything. Even the occasional meals we had at upscale restaurants were ridiculously cheap by UK standards.
6. I think October would be a pretty good time generally but it is VERY important to do your research, here or elsewhere to make sure you are in the right place at the right time weather-wise. We were there from may to nov when much the pacific coast was swathed in the Garua which did not make for great beach time. Altitude is probably as big a factor as time of year as well. If you have not been at altitude before, do not underestimate the effects and take it easy when first at altitude for the first few days
7. Would I do it again? We spent 5 months in SA in 2008 and 6 months again this year and I would go back in a heartbeat!
As you are in the early planning stages I would strongly suggest you spend some time researching the weather, high seasons etc. in each of the places on your short list and start from there.
Hope this helps a little. Happy to help out with any specifics ( inc. places to stay) as and when.
Good luck and happy planning
Dec 11th, 2013, 09:13 AM
#7
Congratulations! I take shorter trips (3-4 weeks) but have developed a particular fondness for Lima, great variety of food and I like the Barranco district as a place to stay (getting more expensive, with increasing popularity). Quito is cheaper than Lima although the food is less interesting, the climate is pleasant and there is plenty to see in the city. The public transport in Quito is easy to figure out since it is basically a narrow linear city, but extremely crowded and probably not entirely safe (I didn't have a problem though). Santiago is a modern cosmopolitan city, expensive, I think of it as a stopover city. I loved La Paz, but due to altitude it probably isn't the best place to start. It is easy to reach overland from Peru (Cusco to Puno).
Since I travel for shorter periods I can afford to spend a bit more on hotels. Prices in Peru have ranged from about $20 in the country (private room), to about $60 to $90 in larger or tourist driven cities (Lima and Cusco).
I usually do fly via Lima, as you have noticed it's easy on the miles. The other alternative is to fly in to Ecuador and work your way south over land (there are easier crossings than crellston's via Loja and onward to Chachapoyas, but I'd still like to do that one some day). You could also go via the north coast and see the ruins around Chiclayo and Trujillo. Buying a one way ticket could potentially be a problem. If you are using miles, I would book the second half, even if it costs you a change fee. If you are doing a loop, Lima has a fairly low exit tax, as international airports go.
If it is possible to leave earlier, September should be a drier month in the Andes. If you can push your departure to September, try to be in Ecuador for the Mama Negra festival in Latacunga (September 23rd and 24th every year which signifies the start of the rainy season!). There is also a second date in early November but it isn't fixed. I think the rains come a bit later to the Bolivia desert. If you are going to try to go to Patagonia, ie Torres del Paine, that should be toward the austral summer. Try to time that to avoid Chile's holidays.
The Barranco neighborhood of Lima is where I like to stay, rather than Miraflores. Hotel prices have been rising, I like to stay here:
http://www.3bhostal.com/
but their single rooms which used to be in the $45 range are now $72, so I will be looking for a new place next visit!
One of my favorite towns in Peru is Chachapoyas (still no airport), and I also liked Ayacucho (flights are now available). If you can time your visit to take the train between Lima and Huancayo, that is a great journey, Huancayo itself is not much but there are interesting towns to visit in the Mantaro Valley and it's possible to continue onward to Huancavelica and then Ayacucho, or overland to Cusco. These overland journeys should only be attempted if the roads are in good repair, and not in the wet season.
Here is next year's schedule to Huancayo by train
https://www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe/index_.php
Since I travel for shorter periods I can afford to spend a bit more on hotels. Prices in Peru have ranged from about $20 in the country (private room), to about $60 to $90 in larger or tourist driven cities (Lima and Cusco).
I usually do fly via Lima, as you have noticed it's easy on the miles. The other alternative is to fly in to Ecuador and work your way south over land (there are easier crossings than crellston's via Loja and onward to Chachapoyas, but I'd still like to do that one some day). You could also go via the north coast and see the ruins around Chiclayo and Trujillo. Buying a one way ticket could potentially be a problem. If you are using miles, I would book the second half, even if it costs you a change fee. If you are doing a loop, Lima has a fairly low exit tax, as international airports go.
If it is possible to leave earlier, September should be a drier month in the Andes. If you can push your departure to September, try to be in Ecuador for the Mama Negra festival in Latacunga (September 23rd and 24th every year which signifies the start of the rainy season!). There is also a second date in early November but it isn't fixed. I think the rains come a bit later to the Bolivia desert. If you are going to try to go to Patagonia, ie Torres del Paine, that should be toward the austral summer. Try to time that to avoid Chile's holidays.
The Barranco neighborhood of Lima is where I like to stay, rather than Miraflores. Hotel prices have been rising, I like to stay here:
http://www.3bhostal.com/
but their single rooms which used to be in the $45 range are now $72, so I will be looking for a new place next visit!
One of my favorite towns in Peru is Chachapoyas (still no airport), and I also liked Ayacucho (flights are now available). If you can time your visit to take the train between Lima and Huancayo, that is a great journey, Huancayo itself is not much but there are interesting towns to visit in the Mantaro Valley and it's possible to continue onward to Huancavelica and then Ayacucho, or overland to Cusco. These overland journeys should only be attempted if the roads are in good repair, and not in the wet season.
Here is next year's schedule to Huancayo by train
https://www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe/index_.php
Dec 11th, 2013, 10:00 AM
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About top poster Crellston's lunch with AVRooster and DW, mentioned above:
http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...ant-refuse.cfm
Just kidding, don't bother to read it, unless y'all feel you absolutely HAVE to.
Question for top poster Crellston: with the "blue dollar discount" did you still find Argentina expensive?
Have a great time in our country.
http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...ant-refuse.cfm
Just kidding, don't bother to read it, unless y'all feel you absolutely HAVE to.
Question for top poster Crellston: with the "blue dollar discount" did you still find Argentina expensive?
Have a great time in our country.
Dec 11th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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The blue dollar helped a lot and did make Argentina very good value, indeed cheap, when compared with my home country. Without the blue dollar it would have been relatively expensive, which I guess is to be expected with unfettered inflation and an artificial exchange rate. Even with the blue dollar it was still more expensive than Ecuador and Bolivia ( so worth it though!) but much cheaper than Chile ( San Pedro de. Atacama particularly, was outrageously expensive.
Dec 11th, 2013, 05:36 PM
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Well, great information from all of you.
We will think about a September departure. After all, we'll be retired and can pretty much go when we want to! !
I am working on a rough timeline now with best times for best place places. Will digest all these helpful ideas and return for more help.
Thank you.
We will think about a September departure. After all, we'll be retired and can pretty much go when we want to! !
I am working on a rough timeline now with best times for best place places. Will digest all these helpful ideas and return for more help.
Thank you.
Dec 17th, 2013, 11:55 AM
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FWIW:
4. You'll probably want to stay a week in and around Cusco, Peru, in any event (Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley, etc) so use that as one of the places to stop for a while. It's touristy, but one of the great places of the world, IMO. I'd love to go back and spend about two weeks or month there.
Also, consider Cajamarca in Peru. When I was there, there were very few Europeans, so it was a great place to sink into the culture of the Andes. As it is somewhat off the beaten path, lodging should be quite a bit less expensive than Cusco or Lima.
5. As a single traveller, I've never paid much for a hotel in Peru, although prices have probably gone up a good bit since I was last there in 2005. I've never found it necessary to make a reservation except for Lima (really Barranco, as that's a good place to stay) on the first nite (planes arrive around 11 P.M.). I believe you can get much better deals if you book in country--airports have a tourist desk and can guide you to good and inexpensive lodging.
7. I'd love to go again. It's a different and fascinating world.
4. You'll probably want to stay a week in and around Cusco, Peru, in any event (Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley, etc) so use that as one of the places to stop for a while. It's touristy, but one of the great places of the world, IMO. I'd love to go back and spend about two weeks or month there.
Also, consider Cajamarca in Peru. When I was there, there were very few Europeans, so it was a great place to sink into the culture of the Andes. As it is somewhat off the beaten path, lodging should be quite a bit less expensive than Cusco or Lima.
5. As a single traveller, I've never paid much for a hotel in Peru, although prices have probably gone up a good bit since I was last there in 2005. I've never found it necessary to make a reservation except for Lima (really Barranco, as that's a good place to stay) on the first nite (planes arrive around 11 P.M.). I believe you can get much better deals if you book in country--airports have a tourist desk and can guide you to good and inexpensive lodging.
7. I'd love to go again. It's a different and fascinating world.
Dec 29th, 2013, 02:51 PM
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making a little progress on our trip planning. I think the hardest part is gauging how long to be gone. Can't get used to the idea of almost unlimited time! Still have a month or more before we have to start looking for a miles return flight. Our arrival date is 09-21-14.
To make life easier for me, I want to nail down our first week which will include Spanish language classes. Arriving in Lima at midnight so we could stay in Lima for the first week to adjust to our new culture and language or we could move on to another area. Would we find language schools and enough to keep us occupied by starting in Cajamarca and then working our way south?
I like the idea of time in northern Peru as mlgb and dwdvagamundo suggest, however, I am concerned about the timing of our trip to the Sacred Valley and MP. Spending a week in Lima puts us into October for the Andes portion. Will weather permit some time in Cajamarca and places south of there as well as Cusco and MP? From Cusco we may well follow the Crellston route into southern Peru and Bolivia and then entering Argentina for some time in Salta before continuing further south in Argentina.
I have narrowed down the trip to Peru, Argentina and Bolivia with forays into Chile at the end of the trip while we are in Patagonia (which I also believe I have to set a timeline for as we will be there in high tourist season) . It makes sense to end up in B.A. for a week or more and then fly home. We are leaving out Ecuador with the hope of returning with a Galapagos trip.
If you have any thoughts on using the month of October for the Andes portion of the trip, both north and south, please share. As you can tell, I am still stirring the pot but am much clearer now than a month ago in large part thanks to all the detailed info I am finding here on Fodor's
As usual, grateful for input. .
To make life easier for me, I want to nail down our first week which will include Spanish language classes. Arriving in Lima at midnight so we could stay in Lima for the first week to adjust to our new culture and language or we could move on to another area. Would we find language schools and enough to keep us occupied by starting in Cajamarca and then working our way south?
I like the idea of time in northern Peru as mlgb and dwdvagamundo suggest, however, I am concerned about the timing of our trip to the Sacred Valley and MP. Spending a week in Lima puts us into October for the Andes portion. Will weather permit some time in Cajamarca and places south of there as well as Cusco and MP? From Cusco we may well follow the Crellston route into southern Peru and Bolivia and then entering Argentina for some time in Salta before continuing further south in Argentina.
I have narrowed down the trip to Peru, Argentina and Bolivia with forays into Chile at the end of the trip while we are in Patagonia (which I also believe I have to set a timeline for as we will be there in high tourist season) . It makes sense to end up in B.A. for a week or more and then fly home. We are leaving out Ecuador with the hope of returning with a Galapagos trip.
If you have any thoughts on using the month of October for the Andes portion of the trip, both north and south, please share. As you can tell, I am still stirring the pot but am much clearer now than a month ago in large part thanks to all the detailed info I am finding here on Fodor's
As usual, grateful for input. .
Dec 31st, 2013, 07:20 AM
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I think a week in Lima is probably too much. There are lots of Spanish schools in Cusco, and most people like Cusco much more than Lima. Probably not so many in Cajamarca.
So if it were me, I'd spend maybe three days in Lima, primarily to visit the big archaeological museums, arrange in-country flights, look at the Plaza de Armas and the surrounding churches, and then fly up to Cusco.
However, if you are planning to exit Peru through Puno on Lake Titicaca, that might mess up your planning. You could, though, take the train to Puno from Arequipa rather than from Cusco. You haven't mentioned seeing any of the coast, which is very interesting and varied, with a wealth of world-class archaeological sites, if you're into that sort of thing. With approximately a month in Peru, you should plan on seeing some of the coast, in my opinion, and you could conclude your trek south in Arequipa then take the train.
October is still dry season in the Andes. So you should be fine, whether you go immediately to the mountains or wait until later.
So if it were me, I'd spend maybe three days in Lima, primarily to visit the big archaeological museums, arrange in-country flights, look at the Plaza de Armas and the surrounding churches, and then fly up to Cusco.
However, if you are planning to exit Peru through Puno on Lake Titicaca, that might mess up your planning. You could, though, take the train to Puno from Arequipa rather than from Cusco. You haven't mentioned seeing any of the coast, which is very interesting and varied, with a wealth of world-class archaeological sites, if you're into that sort of thing. With approximately a month in Peru, you should plan on seeing some of the coast, in my opinion, and you could conclude your trek south in Arequipa then take the train.
October is still dry season in the Andes. So you should be fine, whether you go immediately to the mountains or wait until later.
Dec 31st, 2013, 08:30 AM
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A few years ago I went to Maximo Nivel, language school in Cusco. We also did some volunteer work with them and I loved that fact that they really give back to the community as well as a great language school.
A week is Cusco will fly by. We are going again next month and looking forward to it.
A week is Cusco will fly by. We are going again next month and looking forward to it.
Jan 1st, 2014, 02:55 AM
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We spent a month in. Lima and didn't find it too much. It was nice to be settled and "live the local life" for a short time. That said a week would be plenty for sightseeing. Thanks to mlgb's persuasive skills Lima is no my favourite city in South America .
As has been suggested northern Peru has a lot to offer. Trujillo is a great place to while away a few days lots of pre inca sites and antiquities.
As has been suggested northern Peru has a lot to offer. Trujillo is a great place to while away a few days lots of pre inca sites and antiquities.
Jan 1st, 2014, 11:59 AM
#17
October is not guaranteed to be dry, it is the start of rainy season. Weather is not consistent every year, but one week is not going to change your odds that much.
One year I went in November and the people I met coming from Cusco had some nasty storms in October.
Since you have lots of time you can also be flexible and not set it all in stone.
I haven't been to Cajamarca, the mining protests were going on and there were lots of roadblocks. Not sure if the tourism base has recovered well enough for you to find language schools.
One year I went in November and the people I met coming from Cusco had some nasty storms in October.
Since you have lots of time you can also be flexible and not set it all in stone.
I haven't been to Cajamarca, the mining protests were going on and there were lots of roadblocks. Not sure if the tourism base has recovered well enough for you to find language schools.
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