Thanks a lot for your replies. I'm edging towards Quito now. We love big cities and we don't mind if they're dirty. I think 4 weeks here will keep us pretty occupied. Also we want to see Galapagos so Quito's perfect for that. We'll make it down to Cuenca for sure though.

kangagirl80, I didn't make it to Cuenca but I liked Quito. Quito is a good hub for taking the bus out to other parts of the country for excursions. Food and dining out is not expensive and the produce is amazing. Loved the fresh fruit juices, sorbets and soups.

Another question! Crellston, you booked Spanish lessons when you arrived in Quito. I understand why, in terms of making sure that the school/teacher fit with what you're looking for, but you weren't worried that when you arrived they would not be able to take you due to other students already booked? You think there is always plenty of room in the schools (in general) to make a decision when you arrive? We're looking at studying in July/mid August and I've been researching schools, narrowed it down, but I don't want to get there and they say sorry, we're full! Sounds like you didn't have a problem.

We arrived in early May and really didn't have a problem. All the schools we looked at had places and we could have started at any of them. This does of course make one wonder about the quality and experience of some of the teachers employed. If you decide to book a course in advance, fine, but I certainly would not part with any Mahoney in advance.

Not sure which schools you are considering but here is a link to a post I made on TA re our experiences looking for a school
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop..._Province.html

Though I have only partially read through your posting at http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blo...i/6/tpod.htmlt -- so far it has been extremely helpful in considering our own trip.

The specific experiences you relate about places and experiences you had are interesting, but the overall lessons and generalities about traveling in this region are most valuable to me. You do a great job of fleshing out details about the range of experience to expect using various modes of transportation. Also your first-hand descriptions of hikes, bike rides, treks helps us consider the difference between guide-book descriptions and actual experience. I think that you and your travel companion may have a higher tolerance level for long-haul bus trips and remote border crossings than we do, but your descriptions add perspective for us in planning our own trip. It's worth doing some things that take a challenge. Thanks, I'm looking forward to reading the rest of the trip.

I'm looking forward to reading the rest of the trip--- as this is the same corner of world that we're trying to narrow down.

You are very welcome macboo. Glad you found my scribblings helpful.

mlgb and crellston, have another question for you. We keep reading horror stories about the safety in Quito. Is it really that bad? How did you find it? I know you need to let common sense prevail and give little reason for someone to steal something from you, be on guard etc etc but is it really that bad? As mentioned before we plan on starting off in Quito to learn Spanish but if we're constantly going to be worried about going out at night and during the day, not sure it's the best place to start our travels. I've read about public transport and pickpockets and that sometimes it's just easier to take a taxi. Have also read that in touristic areas the police presence is high. We're Australian and we're not sure if everything you read about Quito is a bit like Australia and shark attacks - there's one shark attack and then people think they happen all the time and you can't go in the water! Maybe we're just being overly paranaoid but just curious to get your opinions.

Hi Kangagirl. We spent around a month in Quito and used public transport exclusively. The only taxi we took was from the airport to the South Amarica explorers club where we were staying. The Trolebus and metro bus systems will get you most places you will want to go. Pickpockets can be an issue on buses etc. as they get very crowded, especially in the rush hours. Don't carry valuables, use a money belt or "secret pocket" and, like us, you are unlikely to experience any problems.

Use ATMs inside banks rather than on the street. Don't use them at night. Most banks have armed guards by their ATM ( both reassuring and disconcerting). Do have a look around before getting out your card, wallet etc.

The streets of Mariscal empty out at night after about 9.00pm and we were advised to take a taxi then. We didn't venture out that much at night except for a few meals but when we did we walked and were fine, but ist probably is more sensible to get a taxi. If you do get taxis get the restaurant to call one for you rather than hail one on the street.

Now that those words of "wisdom" are out of the way, we felt as safe in Quito as anywhere else we have travelled in South America. I really wouldn't be concerned that much about what you read as, in my opinion, most of it is out of date and exaggerated. We met lots of people travelling around Ecuador and nobody we came across had experienced any problems. The only problem we had was in a bus station in Ambato where my wife had a camera stolen.

Just be aware of your surroundings and I am sure you will be fine.

PS my son lives in Sydney and swims every morning at Manly Beach and has yet to get bitten by a shark!!

I was careful about where I stayed and where I walked at night. Did not have any problems but did experience the very crowded Trole buses.

Thanks again Crellston and mlgb. You've put our minds at ease. We know we have to be mindful, just don't want to have a bad time that's all. I've never been to Manly Crellston but I hear it's beautiful (we're from the other side of Australia, Perth). My gran grew up in Manly though and used to swim every day too.

BTW supposedly they've cleaned up the taxi safety issues. I was looking at my old trip report about how to tell a safe taxi.

Orange box, two cameras and red panic button in the back seat. My friend's uncle suggested just sticking your head in and checking. I had one taxi speed off when I did that!

Within a few blocks of the Plaza Grande is fine, as you go east and south beyond that it starts to deteriorate. I tend to blend in (especially from the back) but if you are tall and fair I would be a bit more cautious.

I recommend taking the Quito Tour bus circuit shortly after you arrive. It is great for orientation and it will give you a good feel for the boundaries of the safer areas.

http://www.quitotourbus.com/en

OK thanks! Great advice. Good to hear about the taxi situation. Panic button? OMG!