jhubbel

After the ride Javier and Blanca took me to the great museum in Chiclayo, which I believe mlgb and others had advised I go visit. I'd not thought this was going to be possible but becuase I'd been riding on and around these ruins for several weeks it was really wonderful to see what had been discovered there. It was a treat. They dropped me off for two hours, whereupon a great emotional debate took place because my camera was still attached to my belt. I had no idea, they were gone, and I had no place to put it. Big argument with the security guy and I was nearly led off the premises to sit for two hours. Until he finally said that lockers were available, something that had he offered that in the first place would have saved a great deal of discussion and drama. They of course wanted a passport (that was back in Jejetepque) or another ID (same) come on, how on earth could I have known such things were going to be required for a museum visit? Well they finally agreed to my giving them my passport number and name for a key, and I descended into the cool. Depths of the museum.

There followed a lovely experience, which anyone else who's been there can attest to. I won't spoil the fun but I will tell you that I have been to the exhibits for Egyptian tombs and this is better. Not only is this better but the displays are fantastic, and you get to see so many photographs of each find as it was discovered-precisely how time left it, and as the scientists discovered the burial sites and the unbelievable treasures within.

This museum is worth the trip- it is so gorgeous and it tells the history of the people of coastal Peru during a key time. It also lets us know just how sophisticated those people were in terms of their irrigation and agricultural societies. They had complex religious beliefs and they were incredibly able craftsmen. The beauty of their work and the remarkable quality of the reconstruction are breathtaking.

It is a pity to me that more people don't go north- There is much to see. When I again rode to the ruins during my final rides yesterday it was with a very different appreciation for the history of the place.

jhubbel

Yesterday morning was my last riding day here, and Javier and Blanca had arranged for me to ride in Canoncillo. This is a sweet area not far away, a series of dry mountains and high sand dunes surrounded by thick old forests. Nestled in the middle of this are several lagoons, and many hiking and riding trails. Roberto, a different guide, was to take me, and we trucked two horses out for the adventure. I was riding Oro Del Norte.

One of the characteristics of these very old trees is that as they age, their branches get quite heavy. As a result, they lower, and you end up having to ride beneath them while ducking your head. This might normally work with typical trail horses. Oro, however, wasn't very happy about my change in physical position. When I had to lean over to get underneath the trees he would bolt in discomfort, and it took some time for me to convince him that nothing was amis.

During one of these early times, we were moving through some thick brush and I leaned over. Oro bolted, and unfortunately I sat up too soon. A very heavy branch whalloped me underneath the helmet over my right eye just as a series of branches tore at my face and another very heavy branch slammed into my right shoulder. None of this was making Oro any happier as he was quite rightfully reading all this activity as attacks. Yeah, kind of. He bolted faster and I did my best to hang on.

We made it to a clearing and by that time I was spitting blood. I calmed Oro down, and had to take a moment to assess the damage. Nothing broken.,. Just bruised. Oro was fine, just startled. I had lumps and bumps but laughed, and told my guide that my cabesa was muy dura and not to worry.

After that we dismounted when the branches were too low, often nearly removing our saddles. It was fun in a way, having to solve some problems of how to get the through the woods with our animals, as sometimes we had to climb soft slidy hills, and I ended up on my butt while Oro headed down ahead of me. However he was hugely good mannered, never taking off, and each time I remounted he gave me his head for the reins and stood stock still.

The sand dunes were lovely, sculpted by the eternal winds, and the horses handled them beautifully although they are hard going. We made our way back to the starting point after about two hours and took photos of a small herd.Oro, who doens't care for water, refused to step on mud, so disdained the notion of following the herd so that I could take photos. Show horses.

A few hours later Blanca was taking photos of the damage in the kitchen and we were laughing, as we had a before and after set of photos. The guide was horribly worried I'd be angry but I kept telling him it's part of the adventure- it comes with the territory. As long as the horses are fine I'm good to go.

jhubbel

On the last day I woke up early, and snuck out to visit the babies in the corral and Oro and Senor one last time. I took in the soft cooing of the doves, the sun as it rose and spilled pink on the stables and flowers, the breath of the horses. That morning I bade goodbye to Blanca, which was very difficult, but she gave me a most kind gift.

Edwarda, the 78 year old housekeeper who had been so kind to me my first day, had been ill with back pain and I was going to be unable to say goodbye. However, Blanca loaded her other housekeeper into the taxi with me, and we stopped at Edwarda's house on our way out of town. I was able to go in and hug her, and kiss her hands, and leave her some money for medicines and what nots and at least say goodbye. And Blanca made me promise to return in a year. I am forever reminded that it's the personalities and people who make my visits, and while I love my animals, the reason I come back is because people like Blanca make me part of the family and it is a joy to be around them.

My last animalita was at the Lima airport. Upon disembarking and finding my taxi driver to get back to Miraflores, I came upon a young black dog which was on the sidewalk right outside the airport doors. No owner, just a stray, and a hungry one. The driver left me with my luggage for a moment and I went to the dog, and petted its head. Its reaction was immediate and memorable. It was so joyous and happy for this kind touch that he leapt into the air, licking my hand, wild with enthusiasm, and followed me and my luggage all the way to the taxi. While he loaded I knelt, and this sweet animal buried its head in my lap while I scrubbed him all over. I hated to think that we would have to leave him to an uncertain fate but that is the way it is. We did, and I think of him still, his sweet happy face so glad for a kind touch. I'd rescue each and every one if I could.

I had four hours at the Casa de Bayabar, which was nice but for a markedly musty smell. However the chance to rest, shower again, and nap for a few hours made the midnight departure to Houston far more livable.

Many hours later and exhausted I landed in Denver, almost two days later, where I am writing now, and honestly not glad to be home. Even more than the first time I am deeply in love with Peru, and eager to discover more.

By the way the glasses are Bolle. Excellent brand, interchangeable lenses.

I also found- and the brands vary- but in Arequipa's stores I found very small, packable backpacks that are about the size of a small softball, for about six bucks. They zip up and are tiny, yet they open up and carry a great deal. Extremely handy. Not very hardy, but for one time or two time trip use, they are indispensable. The brand name was Altus. I also found cheap versions, but larger, at REI and TJ Maxx on occasion. Small enough to pack in, and worth every penny for those very short day hikes when you only take a teeny amount of stuff along.

crellston

Hi Jhubbel,

Just been talking about you to the owner of the place at which we are currently staying, the Lazy Dog Inn near Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. I know you have only just returned from you travels but I think you would loved here. 3600m up in the mountains, great hiking and riding country AND they have a bunch of Paso horses. An added bonus are 4 very affectionate dogs here. May be worth considering should you return to Peru.