Adventure in Brazil : 2011 Trip Report
Jan 22nd, 2012, 06:38 AM
#41
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Thank you for a great report - we've never been to Brazil, and now I am really considering it for the near future. Sounds amazing!
If you do not mind sharing, please post a link to your pictures, I would love to see them (especially the Amazon ones).
If you do not mind sharing, please post a link to your pictures, I would love to see them (especially the Amazon ones).
Jan 22nd, 2012, 08:03 AM
#42
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Watermelon juice with ginger, I’ll have to try that someday even if I must whip it up myself in the blender.
DW should be more considered about those wild pig herds than the anacondas. The combination of the two, plus high waves during the storm to rock the hammocks all adds up to quite an adventure.
It was only you on the boat? You had your pick of hammocks then. Would you recommend Swallows and Amazons, which is the company you used to book the boat? What was the boat’s name? Sorry if I missed it.
You saw the pink dolphins! Wow! It appears you had both a sighting from the boat and a communal snorkel with them. Beware a slew of <pink><b>pink dolphin</pink> </b>questions.
<pink><b>Was the pink dolphin encounter a scheduled stop on your boat trip? Is it common to see the pink dolphins from this boat? Were you planning on snorkeling with them? How long did you snorkel? Was the water clear enough for photos with a basic underwater camera? Who were the boys that were feeding the dolphins? Did you wear mini wet suits? How cold was the water? What were the dates of your trip and is there a better/worse time to go to see the pink dolphins?</pink> </b>
"<i>Which other place of our travel do you find interesting atravelyn ? We have already done a lot of travel within India, including visits to various "nature and wildlife" resorts and parks. Any particular ones or places that interest you ?</i>"
Other places you’ve gone that I like are New Zealand and especially Kenya/Tanz. I went to India a year ago for a once in a lifetime trip. I thought Kanha was just magical. Also enjoyed Bandhavgarh and Corbett. I will be visiting India again less than a year after I left—so much for once in a lifetime. Compared to Africa, it is much more affordable. This next trip I am especially interested in the wild ass sanctuary, Little Rann of Kutch. Also blackbucks in nearby Velavadar. What are your fav wildlife spots in India?
A good place to mention some of the Indian parks you have visited and describe your experiences is in this inquiry.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/wildlife-tour.cfm
Photos, please, at your convenience.
Wishing you many more unusual vacations. Thanks for a fantastic and detailed account of this one.
DW should be more considered about those wild pig herds than the anacondas. The combination of the two, plus high waves during the storm to rock the hammocks all adds up to quite an adventure.
It was only you on the boat? You had your pick of hammocks then. Would you recommend Swallows and Amazons, which is the company you used to book the boat? What was the boat’s name? Sorry if I missed it.
You saw the pink dolphins! Wow! It appears you had both a sighting from the boat and a communal snorkel with them. Beware a slew of <pink><b>pink dolphin</pink> </b>questions.
<pink><b>Was the pink dolphin encounter a scheduled stop on your boat trip? Is it common to see the pink dolphins from this boat? Were you planning on snorkeling with them? How long did you snorkel? Was the water clear enough for photos with a basic underwater camera? Who were the boys that were feeding the dolphins? Did you wear mini wet suits? How cold was the water? What were the dates of your trip and is there a better/worse time to go to see the pink dolphins?</pink> </b>
"<i>Which other place of our travel do you find interesting atravelyn ? We have already done a lot of travel within India, including visits to various "nature and wildlife" resorts and parks. Any particular ones or places that interest you ?</i>"
Other places you’ve gone that I like are New Zealand and especially Kenya/Tanz. I went to India a year ago for a once in a lifetime trip. I thought Kanha was just magical. Also enjoyed Bandhavgarh and Corbett. I will be visiting India again less than a year after I left—so much for once in a lifetime. Compared to Africa, it is much more affordable. This next trip I am especially interested in the wild ass sanctuary, Little Rann of Kutch. Also blackbucks in nearby Velavadar. What are your fav wildlife spots in India?
A good place to mention some of the Indian parks you have visited and describe your experiences is in this inquiry.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/wildlife-tour.cfm
Photos, please, at your convenience.
Wishing you many more unusual vacations. Thanks for a fantastic and detailed account of this one.
Jan 22nd, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Enjoying your recollections and vivid writing style.
Some thoughts/impressions/responses on your Salvador section for you and any future readers who might think of visitng here:
“a huge record shop called Cana Brava.,….owned by an American, who is also the author of the best website for tourism for the Salvador area, called www.bahia-online.net . The owner ….A very nice man,” is Randy, known as Pardal (Sparrow), a great resource on Salvador and especially on the traditional music of the region. Glad you managed to encounter him. His website is www.bahia-online.net
For future visitors, he is now doing unique guided evening visits to a small traditional village to see the music performed live, a great opportunity for anyone interested in traditional Bahian culture..
Note: “Theater San Miguel ….. for its evening folkloric show.” better known (in guidebooks) as the Balé Folclorico de Bahia, which also tours worldwide on occasion.
“Porta de Barra, supposedly the best beach of Salvador” Porto da Barra, an urban beach, IS the most lively for people watching, has the best variety of vendors, great service people, and the sun setting into the water, with the local boys in silhouette on the jetty, is indeed a photo op not to be missed. “Best” is pretty subjective though. The most beautiful are out past Itapua, Guarajuba for example, or Jacuipe (reachable by bus, but a little more of a challenge/adventure).
“..we rode a bus for the next 25 km out of town, getting down at Itapua beach. We were there in 25 minutes, after quite a scenic drive on the bus…….What we saw on getting there was totally contrary to expectations. It was a very very narrow strip of beach, packed to capacity with locals, with everyone trying to get drunk. The water was too filthy for swimming. There was a large run-down bar near the beach, where hundreds of locals were dancing away merrily to some music”
In fairness, bear in mind that Salvador has about 2.5 million residents, augmented by many foreign and domestic tourists, all of whom want to be at a nearby beach on a holiday. Itapua is not “out of town”; it’s a neighborhood of the city itself, and the beach there is very popular, especially on some weekends/holidays. You may have been at the “piscina”, which kids absolutely adore, at a time when the incoming tide brought all the holiday trash back into the small cove, though. I’m sorry you had a one-time experience at a small sliver of Itapua’s extensive beach at a not ideal time and did not experience its true beauty. The water itself is clean, but IMO Brazilians in general could use more public education in more responsible and “eco-friendly” trash disposal. That area is much calmer and more scenic on a non-holiday. We have moved a table onto the rocks, with the clear clean blue water lapping at our toes, and blissfully watched many a sunset while eating a yummy moqueca (seafood stew with coconut milk)out there near the farol (lighthouse).
And a couple of thoughts about (perceived) safety for tourists:
“got off slightly before the Farol de Barra, at the Christo statue atop a lovely hill. We walked on that hill, which was extremely pretty, with lush green grass, and swaying palms, and lovely views of the setting sun. It was 6pm, and getting close to sunset. We just sat there and watched a lovely sunset, with the sun sinking into the ocean around 7 pm. Very scenic and relaxing.”
Elsewhere you say about Rio “There was no sign of any threatening situation anywhere, ….Who said Rio is unsafe ? Probably some idiot. Junk and nonsense.” and “Is Rio safe ? This sounded like a joke now. It is as safe or as unsafe as any other large city. We never felt threatened in even the remotest way. Wonder what that brouhaha was all about.“
While I agree in general that there is no reason to be constantly worried, looking over your shoulder instead of at the scenery, what you may not understand is that you were extremely lucky, in Salvador and perhaps in Rio too. That particular hill in Salvador is notorious for robberies, esp. at that time of day, and you might not have seen it coming until too late, thinking all the while you were quite safe. You may not have read Randy's site as thoroughly as you might have, because he also says "The Cristo (the hill with the Christ statue just north of the beach at Farol da Barra) should definitely be avoided at night" and IMO as it arrives. It does not do to be overly alarmed, but neither should anyone, especially a casual tourist, ever minimize the risks in Brazil as “junk and nonsense”.
Note: Pelourinho is part of the Colonial historic district which attracts tourists, and Santo Antonio is the adjoining neighborhood with many pousadas.
“Lots of lovely houses in Santo Antonio too, but perhaps not as well maintained as in Pelo. Lots of pousadas, cafes and bars. Seemed like a safe place (hotel owner had also vouched for safety of this area), so I freely clicked pictures with my DSLR. As I walked, a local lady saw me and scolded me, advising me to put my camera away or risk having it snatched. I did as I was told, although I saw nothing threatening anywhere.”
This is what the neighborhood is like, charmingly crumbling Colonial houses. The part that you describe as “well maintained as in Pelo” got that way only because the government forced out all the local residents to pour money in, to pretty up the area for tourists, and now leases the buildings back to those with lots of money to use for commercial purposes. Sad, really, that what a tourist conceives as nicer to the eye came at such a high price to some locals.
Speculation is rife in Santo Antonio, esp. along the street with views over the bay from the back of the houses/pousadas, pushing out more longtime local residents. Many pousadas on the main street have been fixed up and freshly painted, anticipating some gentrification of the whole neighborhood that would make them a good profit. You might be surprised what luxury lurks behind some shabbier private facades, though; best not to call attention to what valuables might be inside. Again, the local lady was correct and those streets in Santo Antonio are also notorious for robberies, which again you might not have seen coming until too late, thinking all the while you and your camera were quite safe. Hotel owners have an investment in not alarming paying guests. Again, best to remain vigilant at all times.
As I mentioned above, I enjoyed your recollections of Brazil, and appreciate your efforts in posting such a long and complete account.
Some thoughts/impressions/responses on your Salvador section for you and any future readers who might think of visitng here:
“a huge record shop called Cana Brava.,….owned by an American, who is also the author of the best website for tourism for the Salvador area, called www.bahia-online.net . The owner ….A very nice man,” is Randy, known as Pardal (Sparrow), a great resource on Salvador and especially on the traditional music of the region. Glad you managed to encounter him. His website is www.bahia-online.net
For future visitors, he is now doing unique guided evening visits to a small traditional village to see the music performed live, a great opportunity for anyone interested in traditional Bahian culture..
Note: “Theater San Miguel ….. for its evening folkloric show.” better known (in guidebooks) as the Balé Folclorico de Bahia, which also tours worldwide on occasion.
“Porta de Barra, supposedly the best beach of Salvador” Porto da Barra, an urban beach, IS the most lively for people watching, has the best variety of vendors, great service people, and the sun setting into the water, with the local boys in silhouette on the jetty, is indeed a photo op not to be missed. “Best” is pretty subjective though. The most beautiful are out past Itapua, Guarajuba for example, or Jacuipe (reachable by bus, but a little more of a challenge/adventure).
“..we rode a bus for the next 25 km out of town, getting down at Itapua beach. We were there in 25 minutes, after quite a scenic drive on the bus…….What we saw on getting there was totally contrary to expectations. It was a very very narrow strip of beach, packed to capacity with locals, with everyone trying to get drunk. The water was too filthy for swimming. There was a large run-down bar near the beach, where hundreds of locals were dancing away merrily to some music”
In fairness, bear in mind that Salvador has about 2.5 million residents, augmented by many foreign and domestic tourists, all of whom want to be at a nearby beach on a holiday. Itapua is not “out of town”; it’s a neighborhood of the city itself, and the beach there is very popular, especially on some weekends/holidays. You may have been at the “piscina”, which kids absolutely adore, at a time when the incoming tide brought all the holiday trash back into the small cove, though. I’m sorry you had a one-time experience at a small sliver of Itapua’s extensive beach at a not ideal time and did not experience its true beauty. The water itself is clean, but IMO Brazilians in general could use more public education in more responsible and “eco-friendly” trash disposal. That area is much calmer and more scenic on a non-holiday. We have moved a table onto the rocks, with the clear clean blue water lapping at our toes, and blissfully watched many a sunset while eating a yummy moqueca (seafood stew with coconut milk)out there near the farol (lighthouse).
And a couple of thoughts about (perceived) safety for tourists:
“got off slightly before the Farol de Barra, at the Christo statue atop a lovely hill. We walked on that hill, which was extremely pretty, with lush green grass, and swaying palms, and lovely views of the setting sun. It was 6pm, and getting close to sunset. We just sat there and watched a lovely sunset, with the sun sinking into the ocean around 7 pm. Very scenic and relaxing.”
Elsewhere you say about Rio “There was no sign of any threatening situation anywhere, ….Who said Rio is unsafe ? Probably some idiot. Junk and nonsense.” and “Is Rio safe ? This sounded like a joke now. It is as safe or as unsafe as any other large city. We never felt threatened in even the remotest way. Wonder what that brouhaha was all about.“
While I agree in general that there is no reason to be constantly worried, looking over your shoulder instead of at the scenery, what you may not understand is that you were extremely lucky, in Salvador and perhaps in Rio too. That particular hill in Salvador is notorious for robberies, esp. at that time of day, and you might not have seen it coming until too late, thinking all the while you were quite safe. You may not have read Randy's site as thoroughly as you might have, because he also says "The Cristo (the hill with the Christ statue just north of the beach at Farol da Barra) should definitely be avoided at night" and IMO as it arrives. It does not do to be overly alarmed, but neither should anyone, especially a casual tourist, ever minimize the risks in Brazil as “junk and nonsense”.
Note: Pelourinho is part of the Colonial historic district which attracts tourists, and Santo Antonio is the adjoining neighborhood with many pousadas.
“Lots of lovely houses in Santo Antonio too, but perhaps not as well maintained as in Pelo. Lots of pousadas, cafes and bars. Seemed like a safe place (hotel owner had also vouched for safety of this area), so I freely clicked pictures with my DSLR. As I walked, a local lady saw me and scolded me, advising me to put my camera away or risk having it snatched. I did as I was told, although I saw nothing threatening anywhere.”
This is what the neighborhood is like, charmingly crumbling Colonial houses. The part that you describe as “well maintained as in Pelo” got that way only because the government forced out all the local residents to pour money in, to pretty up the area for tourists, and now leases the buildings back to those with lots of money to use for commercial purposes. Sad, really, that what a tourist conceives as nicer to the eye came at such a high price to some locals.
Speculation is rife in Santo Antonio, esp. along the street with views over the bay from the back of the houses/pousadas, pushing out more longtime local residents. Many pousadas on the main street have been fixed up and freshly painted, anticipating some gentrification of the whole neighborhood that would make them a good profit. You might be surprised what luxury lurks behind some shabbier private facades, though; best not to call attention to what valuables might be inside. Again, the local lady was correct and those streets in Santo Antonio are also notorious for robberies, which again you might not have seen coming until too late, thinking all the while you and your camera were quite safe. Hotel owners have an investment in not alarming paying guests. Again, best to remain vigilant at all times.
As I mentioned above, I enjoyed your recollections of Brazil, and appreciate your efforts in posting such a long and complete account.
Jan 22nd, 2012, 08:49 PM
#46
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atravelyn, lots of questions - let me answer them one by one. And yes, Brazil does conjure up strange combinations of ingredients in their fresh juices. And there are many fruits there whose names we are totally unfamiliar with, as they are not to be found anywhere outside Brazil. Don't ever try the acai juice, as you will get addicted, and start drinking it everyday !
We had wanted a private boat all to ourselves for the Amazon tour (plus crew and guide of course). Swallows and Amazons does not guarantee private tours, but they said that there is a fair chance that there would not be any other tourists with us. So it is all a matter of chance. We were promised a 10% discount if some other tourist joined us; I am glad that no one did. Yes, I would recommend Swallows and Amazons if you want a Riverboat trip like us, as they specialize in such tours. But do go through all the inclusions and exclusions with a toothcomb. We had a wonderful experience with a safari operator in Africa, who had sent a very detailed list of what was included, and what was excluded. He had surprised us by offering more that what was promised at every step. Not so with Swallows and Amazons, as you do need to go over the fine print about exclusions, which is unfortunate given that all their other arrangements were perfect. They are however quite well established and reliable in service. We were on a riverboat called Ajuaro Junior, but I don't think the boats are owned by Swallows; they rent them out from private owners.
The pink dolphins are found at a particular part of the Amazon, and I believe that they exist there year round (we were there in December end). It is an optional "extra" in the trip, for which a small sum of extra money has to be paid directly to the owner of the floating house, from where you go swimming with the dolphins. The boys feeding the dolphins were the teenaged sons of the lady who owned the place. The water temperature was most comfortable, and there was no requirement of any wet suit - just our regular swimming trunks. They have a platform on which you can stand, just outside their house, where you will be chest-deep in water. The boys stand on that platform and feed the dolphins, who come there. So you can stand on the platform and enjoy everything, feel the dolphins etc, and not go swimming if you don't want to. However, it would be criminal to go there and not take a swim - something to brag about when you return ! I don't think there is a time restriction on how long you can stay there. I guess anywhere between 30-60 minutes, and you will be quite satisfied. The water was quite clear, but I don't know if it was suitable for underwater photography; probably not that clear.
The wildlife parks that we have visited are Ranthambore (in Rajasthan), Gir Forest (in Gujarat: only habitat of Lions in India), and Betla (in Eastern India), plus a few smaller ones. Plan to visit Kanha someday. Of course, wildlife viewing anywhere has to be anti-climactic anywhere after Kenya & Tanzania, where we had our lifetime's fill of wildlife spotting.
We will post photos soon. Thanks for your wishes for many more vacations for us !
We had wanted a private boat all to ourselves for the Amazon tour (plus crew and guide of course). Swallows and Amazons does not guarantee private tours, but they said that there is a fair chance that there would not be any other tourists with us. So it is all a matter of chance. We were promised a 10% discount if some other tourist joined us; I am glad that no one did. Yes, I would recommend Swallows and Amazons if you want a Riverboat trip like us, as they specialize in such tours. But do go through all the inclusions and exclusions with a toothcomb. We had a wonderful experience with a safari operator in Africa, who had sent a very detailed list of what was included, and what was excluded. He had surprised us by offering more that what was promised at every step. Not so with Swallows and Amazons, as you do need to go over the fine print about exclusions, which is unfortunate given that all their other arrangements were perfect. They are however quite well established and reliable in service. We were on a riverboat called Ajuaro Junior, but I don't think the boats are owned by Swallows; they rent them out from private owners.
The pink dolphins are found at a particular part of the Amazon, and I believe that they exist there year round (we were there in December end). It is an optional "extra" in the trip, for which a small sum of extra money has to be paid directly to the owner of the floating house, from where you go swimming with the dolphins. The boys feeding the dolphins were the teenaged sons of the lady who owned the place. The water temperature was most comfortable, and there was no requirement of any wet suit - just our regular swimming trunks. They have a platform on which you can stand, just outside their house, where you will be chest-deep in water. The boys stand on that platform and feed the dolphins, who come there. So you can stand on the platform and enjoy everything, feel the dolphins etc, and not go swimming if you don't want to. However, it would be criminal to go there and not take a swim - something to brag about when you return ! I don't think there is a time restriction on how long you can stay there. I guess anywhere between 30-60 minutes, and you will be quite satisfied. The water was quite clear, but I don't know if it was suitable for underwater photography; probably not that clear.
The wildlife parks that we have visited are Ranthambore (in Rajasthan), Gir Forest (in Gujarat: only habitat of Lions in India), and Betla (in Eastern India), plus a few smaller ones. Plan to visit Kanha someday. Of course, wildlife viewing anywhere has to be anti-climactic anywhere after Kenya & Tanzania, where we had our lifetime's fill of wildlife spotting.
We will post photos soon. Thanks for your wishes for many more vacations for us !
Jan 22nd, 2012, 08:57 PM
#47
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Equestrian, thanks for filling up a lot of useful details for readers about Salvador.
We were at the Christo hill at sunset time, when there were atleast 100 people there,if not more. Cannot imagine a robbery taking place amidst so many people. If someone has recommended avoiding it at "night time" that is perfectly understandable. Basically, anywhere we went, if there were enough people walking all around, common sense suggested that it was safe, irrespective of what anyone may say. And if any place was deserted, we got away from it fast, whether night or day, whether rated as safe or unsafe. An experienced traveler can easily "sense" the danger factor, and if basic caution is observed, I still maintain that Brazil is extremely safe. However, I agree it is always better to err on the side of caution.
Thanks for your appreciation of the TR.
We were at the Christo hill at sunset time, when there were atleast 100 people there,if not more. Cannot imagine a robbery taking place amidst so many people. If someone has recommended avoiding it at "night time" that is perfectly understandable. Basically, anywhere we went, if there were enough people walking all around, common sense suggested that it was safe, irrespective of what anyone may say. And if any place was deserted, we got away from it fast, whether night or day, whether rated as safe or unsafe. An experienced traveler can easily "sense" the danger factor, and if basic caution is observed, I still maintain that Brazil is extremely safe. However, I agree it is always better to err on the side of caution.
Thanks for your appreciation of the TR.
Jan 22nd, 2012, 09:01 PM
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coldupthere, I am enjoying reading your own TR on the Inca trail in Peru right now. I also recall reading many of your posts and TR on the Turkey board a few months ago, when we were planning our Turkey trip last summer. I wish I had your sense of humor, as I am always laughing from side to side when I read your reports ! Great writing !
Thanks for the compliments - and I will keep your suggestion about welcoming anacondas on board in mind, next time I am on the Amazon !
Thanks for the compliments - and I will keep your suggestion about welcoming anacondas on board in mind, next time I am on the Amazon !
Jan 23rd, 2012, 03:38 AM
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"Cannot imagine a robbery taking place amidst so many people."
example: Local friend answered her cell phone on the (full) bus out to Itapua the other day. Guy sitting next to her showed her a knife. No one either noticed or moved to endanger him/herself to help. What would common sense suggest? He took the cell phone from her before he exited. Read a similar recent report about a couple of tourists walking on a populated street in the Santa Teresa neighborhood of Rio, approached and robbed by an armed teen in sight of people there.
Again, while Brazilians and longtime foreign residents have developed a relaxed vigilance that a tourist could well imitate, no one should trivialize the risks as “junk and nonsense”.
Very glad you stayed safe.
example: Local friend answered her cell phone on the (full) bus out to Itapua the other day. Guy sitting next to her showed her a knife. No one either noticed or moved to endanger him/herself to help. What would common sense suggest? He took the cell phone from her before he exited. Read a similar recent report about a couple of tourists walking on a populated street in the Santa Teresa neighborhood of Rio, approached and robbed by an armed teen in sight of people there.
Again, while Brazilians and longtime foreign residents have developed a relaxed vigilance that a tourist could well imitate, no one should trivialize the risks as “junk and nonsense”.
Very glad you stayed safe.
Jan 23rd, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Hello Indiancouple,
Just saw this trip report and am bookmarking it to return and read at leisure !
Looking forward to it - you write very vividly and can tell a story so well as I recall from your previous trip report that I enjoyed very much.
M.
Just saw this trip report and am bookmarking it to return and read at leisure !
Looking forward to it - you write very vividly and can tell a story so well as I recall from your previous trip report that I enjoyed very much.
M.
Jan 25th, 2012, 09:50 AM
#53
Have loved your TR - we're in Pipa now which is a fantastic beach town with great restaurants. Came here after our trip to the Amazon - we flew into Tefe and spent 3 nights at Uakari Lodge. Also saw pink dolphins there and had a fascinating presentation by the dolphin researchers.
Jan 29th, 2012, 05:29 AM
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Here is a link to our Brazil photographs :
https://picasaweb.google.com/1045351...CImb34aXwKuFVw
Enjoy !
https://picasaweb.google.com/1045351...CImb34aXwKuFVw
Enjoy !
Jan 29th, 2012, 01:52 PM
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I enjoyed your excellent report. Thanks. We too were at that floating dock where the pink dolphins gather. We were even given plates of fish to feed them. Got great video. Your report is as close as we'll get to handgliding!
