althom1122

Thanks sooo much! Very helpful. I'll plan on booking the cruise and flight to Quito soon. For the Galapagos. I think we'll go with the Bonita 5-day northern cruise. It visits South Plaza, Santa Cruz, Genovesa, Santiago, Bartolome, and Seymour.

Now I'm focusing on the Lake District. Car rentals seem quite expensive, but tours also seem costly. We really like the independence of the car and not having to be with large groups, so here's what I'm thinking:

- Fly to Puerto Montt; get rental car and go directly to Puerto Varas
- 3 nights in Puerto Varas, including a day of whitewater rafting
- 3 nights in Villa la Angostura, with a stop in Frutillar enroute - take day trip to Bariloche and do the Circuito Chico; on the other full day drive the 7 Lakes (and back)
- Drive to Chiloe - spend 2 nights in Castro (so we'll have 1 full day)
- Return to Puerto Montt, drop car, fly back to Santiago

How does this sound?

crellston

Sounds fantastic!

Not sure I can add much as we took a very different route coming south from Santiago to Pucon before crossing over the border to San Martin de Los Andes and doing the seven lakes drive to Bariloche. Loved the drive despite the terrible weather! didn’t head much further south than Bariloche before heading off to the east coast to see the whales at Peninsula Valdez. Loved San Martin de los Andes and though seriously about returning there to buy a place but never got around to it (thankfully!)

In hindsight, I do wish we had spent more time on the Chilean side of the border though. I am very envious. One thing that has long been on my bucket list is the Cruce Andino crossing between Puerto Varas and Bariloche but guess that would be impossible with a rental car! I presume you have checked out the requirements for taking a hire car across the border? I vaguely recall it was very difficult and expensive from Argentina to Chile. Not sure about the other way around.

Car rental in Argentina has always been expensive but now it is astronomically priced . Not sure about Chile. But regardless of price, do check over teh car with a fine tooth comb . Not just for the usual dents and scratches but also for roadworthiness - types, fluid , brakes , steering , everything.


We did love the seven lakes drive. If you get teh time do try and make it to SMdelosAndes.

thursdaysd

I did the Cruce Andino crossing, taking two days, and highly recommend it. I did fine without a car, but I could see maybe using one for the Argentinian side. I got from Bariloche to San Martin by joining a day tour and getting off in San Martin.

For my TR for that section start here and use the links at the top of the page: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...t-care-for-it/

I just reread my own posts, and now I'm wondering why I haven't been back!

mlgb

If you can find an acceptable price, I would recommend l a 7 day rather than 5 day Galapagos cruise (bear in mind that the final day in particular is virtually nothing but a transfer) Especially witj a short cruise, an independent night or two in Puerto Ayora would be a good idea.

This is the company I used, the 5-day itinerary is really good. After December you may not see the waved albatross, so try to do that before January.

https://www.galapatours.com/trip/gal...ab=datesPrices

HappyTrvlr

We also enjoyed the Lakes Crossing from Bariloche to Puerto Varas with an overnight in Puella at the lodge.

mlgb

ETA : That was the boat/itinerary I took but I booked direct with Cometa.

crellston

Another trip on my bucket list, again, inspired I think by Thursdaysd's blog is https://www.navimag.com/en/explore-p...-ferry-navimag. May be worth considering as you are in that neck of the woods.

mlgb

Have stayed at several hotels in Medellin

My favorite is Poblado Alejandria, which is in a neighborhood uphill from the Golden Mile. It's on booking.com. Room service and a pleasant patio for breakfast. Not a far walk from a mall with a Carulla supermarket and some restaurants including a Gorditas (arepa) place that was quite good. Note that there is a lot of walking up and down hills in this part of Medellin.

The Ibis where both crellston and I have stayed is also an okay choice (although I recall checkin issues) and probably more convenient if you are will make extensive use of the Metro system and don't want to deal with as many hills. Often I spilt my stay, splurge at the at Poblado Alejandria for a few nights to chill and use taxis and other nights down in the flats.

Stayed once at the Porton (didn't like, big soulless hotel part of tour booking) and another for a final night at bh El Poblado across from big mall (okay but I remember extremely hard beds even by Colombia standards). It was convenient for last night before flights and not expensive.

Colombians in the hospitality industry are uniformly friendly and polite.

If you like ice cream don't miss Crepes & Waffles, some locations have good salad bar.

thursdaysd

Looks like they have a new boat since I did it. Probably still not for those who want luxury on their cruise, but much more interesting and scenic than flying.

crellston

The Ibis is an ok chain hotel in a decent location next door to the Museo de Arte Moderno which is definitely worth an hour or two. https://accidentalnomads.com/2016/06...s-in-medellin/ Strangely I recall some issues on checking out from that hotel but can't for the life of em remember what they were.

What I remember most are the food trucks just around the corner from the hotel behind the Museo https://accidentalnomads.com/2016/06...g-in-medellin/ a great way to sample a range of Paisa food

GalapagosGuy

Sounds like you are in for quite the trip. As you obviously know, planning is key with "only" 10 weeks. You could spend 10 months and still not soak it all in. I have lived in Ecuador for 13 years and traveled much of the continent myself. I think you should do the jungle, find a reputable lodge in Brazil, Peru, or Ecuador. I have also worked a long time in the Ecuador tourism industry, specifically the Galapagos. If you are flexible with the class, price, and length of the cruise you could probably wait and book about 2 months out, this is when most boats start offering discounts. Still, it doesn't hurt to keep checking on the prices up until then.

I would try and convince you to spend more time in Ecuador, but you have a lot of ground to cover. Feel free to ask me anything and everything about Ecuador.

Enjoy your travels!

SantacruzGuy

If you are only staying ten weeks in South America I would recommend only choosing one country and trace a travel itinerary, I would start with Peru, there are plenty of direct flights to Lima. It may not be the prettiest place, but it has an outstanding food scene. Also, Miraflores and Barranco are interesting barrios that warrant some exploration.

From there, you can fly to Cusco. Book your tour to Machu Picchu and stop off at Ollantaytambo on the way back. This little town is charming in its own right and it acts as a great base to explore the Sacred Valey. Pisac, Moray, Maras- there’s plenty to see and do. However, make sure to have a few days in Cusco before heading back to Lima. As the old Inca capital, it’s rich in culture and activities.

mlgb

Ten weeks is plenty of time to do at least three countries. Colombia and Ecuador are easy to pair up. Especially as they are adjacent with many daily flights between them.

Even a third country is quite feasible. Three weeks in Colombia, 1 in Ecuador (for the Galapagos) and a day or two in Quito and/or Guayaquil.

Rounding up to 5 weeks to include those transit days you still have 4-5 weeks left.

The OP has already been to Machu Picchu, the issue is that she is traveling during the rainy season in that part of the Andes.

As far as the Lake District, I think since you've been to TdP, it may pale in comparison.

I've only been to Puerto Montt with a side trips to Lago Llanquihue and the Alerce Andino NP. Also to Pto Chabuco. Had a great deal on a Valpo to BA cruise in 2016 during the Zika era fire sales. We went all the way round Cape Horn, including stops in the Falklands, Tierra del Fuego, Punta Tumbo, Montevideo, plus cruising the west side of Chile and the Beagle Channel.

You can see Lakes and volcanoes in Ecuador as well, the problem with all volcano viewing is the visibility.

althom1122

Thanks again, everyone! I've had some classes recently so I had to take a bit of a break from planning. But we bo. oked our flight home from Rio on April 2! So we have 10 1/2 weeks total.

We're definitely not doing Peru - I've been there (loved it, but the weather won't be conducive to a good experience).

Agree on 3 weeks for Colombia and a week for Ecuador - have already planned out the schedule for Colombia. Still thinking about possibly adding a couple of extra days in/around Quito.

I hear you, mlgb, regarding the Lakes District potentially paling in comparison to southern Patagonia, but I think it will provide a nice contrast to the other areas we're visiting. We enjoy driving trips and it looks very scenic, even if not as spectacular as Torres del Paine and El Chalten. I've checked into car rentals and will be reserving soon - have selected a company that can provide the paperwork for us to enter Argentina from Chile.

Starting to focus on San Pedro de Atacama and Salta/Jujuy. Assuming we fly from Santiago to Calama, we're considering renting a car to explore the area, although it's obviously easy to do via bus and then take individual tours. Any thoughts on this?

From there, we'd head to Salta. If we rent a car from Calama, though, we'd have to take it back to the airport and would probably fly to Salta (via Buenos Aires). Saw some relatively inexpensive flights. Alternatively, if we go to San Pedro by bus, we could take the overland bus to Jujuy/Salta - over the mountains. Quite a long, but very scenic, bus ride. Again, suggestions?

Lastly, we're thinking about our itinerary for the Salta area. We're very interested in spending enough time there to really get a feel for it. I've looked at quite a few itineraries and am still working out the details.

We've basically decided to exclude Buenos Aires (been there, enjoyed it, but didn't love it) - but we have considered whether it would be worthwhile to include Montevideo.

That's where things stand as of now. Keep those thoughts coming - we so appreciate hearing from you all.

crellston

Personally, I wouldn't bother with a car in San Pedro/Calama. Way easier.

We went in the opposite direction from Salta to San Pedro by bus. It is an easy and scenic journey and takes around 8-10 hours which is likely cheaper than flying. We used Pullman but I think Andemar also ply that route. Buses are likely more reliable than Argentine airlines of which I am not a fan!

We have done several road trips around Salta which I amalgamated into a number of posts in our blog @ https://accidentalnomads.com/categor...ica/argentina/
I like to think of it as a sort of figure of eight, to the north and south of Salta City. Something like this:

NORTH

Salta - Purmamarca - Huamhuaca - Salta

There is as much to see in between the towns as the towns themselves so allow PLENTY of driving time. Salinas Grande is an excellent side trip from Purmamarca. You could break your trip back to Salta by staying at Tilcara. You could extend the trip further north up to Iruya.

SOUTH

You will probably want to spend a night in Salta in between the two loops and then head off

Salta - Cachi (via Parque de los Cardones) - Ruta 40 to Cafayate and then back to Salta.

Ruta 40 is my favourite drive in South America, if not the world. We sometimes add a night in Molinos and a very nice hotel there and it also has a very pretty church (photos in our blog) we also sometimes also add a night at Finca La Paya 10 kms or so out of Cachi - great food!). Cafayate is the place for wine. Lots of vineyards around the town and lots of bodegas in town. Very much a foodie destination. THE place to hunt down the empanadas for which the town is famous.

I can take or leave Montevideo though, if you are meat lovers, definitely take it! the place is incredible for that. there are some photos of the mountains of BBQ meat in all shapes, sizes and parts in our blog.

On though would get the ferry to Montevideo from BA , Bus to the very quaint Colonia de Sacremento and ferry back to BA. I think it may prove difficult to avoid BA completely. Though, if you can fly out of Montevideo to wherever you want to go you could do as we did one time which was to fly from Salta to Puerto Iguazu, see the falls and then get the bus down through Uruguay via Salto to Colonia and then Montevideo. Just a thought!

mlgb

Have only been to the Bolivian part ( Eduardo Avaroa Reserve) adjacent to S Pedro de Atacama. It is spectacular and if the Chilean part is even half as good, it will be well worthwhile. I leave you in crellston's hands.

We spent a few hours in and around Montevideo (day off cruise ship) with some local birders. We walked around Parque Rodo. There is some nice Art Deco/Moderne architecture in the city center near the port. We later ate at the famous meat palace in the Mercado, which was on Parts Unknown. I preferred both the beef and the cityscape to Buenos Aires.

https://www.decopix.com/who-knew-mon...nary-art-deco/

https://turismo.gub.uy/index.php/que...deo-y-art-deco

thursdaysd

I thought the beef was definitely better in Uruguay. My volunteer guide in BsAs said that the beef in Argentina was no longer all grass fed.

GalapagosGuy

100% agree the better steak will be had in Uruguay. My understanding is that the majority of the good Argentine beef is now exported.

althom1122

Thanks! Regarding Uruguay, we'd insert it between Salta and Iguazu Falls. Debating about whether it's worth the cost of the additional flight - we enjoy a good steak, but it wouldn't be a driving factor. So we need to ponder that.

One thing I'm thinking about now is travel insurance. I've never bought it before except when I was with a tour group. In this instance, once we book the Galapagos cruise, we'll have several thousand dollars in the trip. Plus I want to start booking flights between destinations. We have two close relatives (hubbiy's mother and my sister-in-law) in poor health and it's possible we'd need to come home at some point. Recommendations on which company to go with? We'd need coverage in case we lose either of them and need to cancel/change flights or cruise - anyone have experience with this?

mlgb

Have a look at Seven Corners for insurance. They have a good array of options, including annual plans. World traveler friend recommends their annual plan but they do have shorter term ones.

Most policies cover death of a family member, but read fine print for restrictions on degree of relatedness, and a clause that says no cover if you knew about it. I have seen that on some.

Oh yes, re Uruguay I'm not that much of a steak eater and I don't know that I would book a separate flight and deal with South American airlines just for a steak, unless you are also one of those "country tickers", LOL.