Buenos Aires First Trip...A Few Random Questions...
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Buenos Aires First Trip...A Few Random Questions...
With some help from this Forum, I have booked a trip to Buenos Aires. I am leaving in a week and I will be staying for eight days. I decided to split my trip between Recoleta and Palermo; I will spend my first three days in Recoleta in one of the classic hotels, with the next five in a cool boutique hotel in las Canitas. I am a single man in my early 40's traveling alone. My intent is to take a day trip or two, but I have not figured this out yet, and I may just play it by ear. I have a few random questions....
- Regarding day trip(s), does anyone have any insight into a Colonia day trip and/ or a Le Tigre day trip. I really like the idea of taking the express boat to Colonia for lunch or a quick walk around. Any thoughts? Any other day trip options?
- Regarding safety, I know this is a difficult question, but I am just trying to get a sense of things so I can plan and pack accordingly. I love to walk; can I walk freely during the day in Palermo and Recoleta? Can I walk freely at night? I know not to bring my Rolex, but what about my DSLR, am I better off just bring a small point & shoot that I can keep in pocket? Can I sit outside and talk on my iphone, or do I need to be concerned someone will snatch it. Can I walk around San Telmo Or La Boca during the day?
- Dress: How formal is BA? Will I need (want) a jacket for any restaurants or tango shows? When I go to a nice restaurant in Paris, I wear a jacket. I live in LA, and I like wearing jeans with a nice shirt or sweater; is this ok in most places?
- Shopping: I understand that leather can be beautiful and inexpensive in BA. Any recommendations on men's leather jackets and/ or shoes? Are there places that custom make leather jackets? I am not a big shopper, but are there any other products that are good to buy in BA?
- Football (soccer): There are games scheduled at each of the major stadiums when i am there. Does anyone have any experience with ticket prices/ packages/ safety, or anything else related to going to a game? Does anybody have any experience with attending a polo match (not sure if it is in season)?
- Car from the airport. My hotel charges $80 for a sedan from the airport; this seems a little high. Is it safe and easy to get a taxi form the airport? Is there a car service that is better than a taxi that is not priced too much higher? i will be arriving early in the morning after a long overnight flight(s), so the idea of the hotel car is appealing.
- Are there any great street markets and/ or food markets? Are there specific tango shows or tango classes that are recommended?
Thank you.
- Regarding day trip(s), does anyone have any insight into a Colonia day trip and/ or a Le Tigre day trip. I really like the idea of taking the express boat to Colonia for lunch or a quick walk around. Any thoughts? Any other day trip options?
- Regarding safety, I know this is a difficult question, but I am just trying to get a sense of things so I can plan and pack accordingly. I love to walk; can I walk freely during the day in Palermo and Recoleta? Can I walk freely at night? I know not to bring my Rolex, but what about my DSLR, am I better off just bring a small point & shoot that I can keep in pocket? Can I sit outside and talk on my iphone, or do I need to be concerned someone will snatch it. Can I walk around San Telmo Or La Boca during the day?
- Dress: How formal is BA? Will I need (want) a jacket for any restaurants or tango shows? When I go to a nice restaurant in Paris, I wear a jacket. I live in LA, and I like wearing jeans with a nice shirt or sweater; is this ok in most places?
- Shopping: I understand that leather can be beautiful and inexpensive in BA. Any recommendations on men's leather jackets and/ or shoes? Are there places that custom make leather jackets? I am not a big shopper, but are there any other products that are good to buy in BA?
- Football (soccer): There are games scheduled at each of the major stadiums when i am there. Does anyone have any experience with ticket prices/ packages/ safety, or anything else related to going to a game? Does anybody have any experience with attending a polo match (not sure if it is in season)?
- Car from the airport. My hotel charges $80 for a sedan from the airport; this seems a little high. Is it safe and easy to get a taxi form the airport? Is there a car service that is better than a taxi that is not priced too much higher? i will be arriving early in the morning after a long overnight flight(s), so the idea of the hotel car is appealing.
- Are there any great street markets and/ or food markets? Are there specific tango shows or tango classes that are recommended?
Thank you.
#2
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,773
Likes: 0
hi fishskis
I really liked Colonia and spent a few days there although I know that others on this forum have been less impressed. Personally, I would highly recommend a visit. Here is a link to some of our photos http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...7680/tpod.html
Tigre was ok but with 8 days to play with, I would be inclined to give it amiss as there is so much else to see and do.
I read a lot about how "dangerous" BA was and the need to be wary of pickpockets. I have to say though during the month we stayed in the city I walked around with my DSLR and expensive watch and did not feel threatened or at any sort of risk once. You just have to be aware of your environment and take the usual precautions Maybe I was lucky or maybe it was because I am used to living in a large city (London). I really don't think it any more or less safe than any large city. (phone theft is a big problem everywhere and personally, if you sit outside using an iPhone in any major city, I think you are inviting trouble!
Dress is informal in the vast majority of places in BA - jeans and shirt will be fine.
As for the shopping, I was looking forward to bring something back but found that the good stuff was actually more expensive than in London. We ended up buying asado carving sets for presents to bring back. Really high quality and representative of Argentine life.
I can't help you with football (aka soccer!) as, although I am English I can't stand the game!
San Telmo has a great street market on a Sunday and for tango, I enjoyed Cafe Tortoni.
Have fun it is a great city.
I really liked Colonia and spent a few days there although I know that others on this forum have been less impressed. Personally, I would highly recommend a visit. Here is a link to some of our photos http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...7680/tpod.html
Tigre was ok but with 8 days to play with, I would be inclined to give it amiss as there is so much else to see and do.
I read a lot about how "dangerous" BA was and the need to be wary of pickpockets. I have to say though during the month we stayed in the city I walked around with my DSLR and expensive watch and did not feel threatened or at any sort of risk once. You just have to be aware of your environment and take the usual precautions Maybe I was lucky or maybe it was because I am used to living in a large city (London). I really don't think it any more or less safe than any large city. (phone theft is a big problem everywhere and personally, if you sit outside using an iPhone in any major city, I think you are inviting trouble!
Dress is informal in the vast majority of places in BA - jeans and shirt will be fine.
As for the shopping, I was looking forward to bring something back but found that the good stuff was actually more expensive than in London. We ended up buying asado carving sets for presents to bring back. Really high quality and representative of Argentine life.
I can't help you with football (aka soccer!) as, although I am English I can't stand the game!
San Telmo has a great street market on a Sunday and for tango, I enjoyed Cafe Tortoni.
Have fun it is a great city.
#3

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,068
Likes: 0
Hello Fishskis: Just to respond to a couple of your questions.
You can so very easily - and safely - take either Taxi Ezeiza or a Remis (World Car, VIP or Tienda Leon) from the airport with no advance planning and at less cost than your hotel limo, that this would be money well saved.
I would be VERY careful with an I phone - Crelleston was not a solo tourist; he is a very savy and conscientious traveller who was with someone else - 4 eyes are better than 2. We never had any problems in several trips (taking busses, metro walking day and night - but, not in questionable areas, etc.) but we do heed the recommended cautions.
We did enjoy day trips to Colonia and to the Delta, but I agree with Crelleston that fitting both into your time frame might curtail your enjoyment of Buenos Aires...and you are quite correct - you can decide when you are there depending upon your sense of things, the weather etc.
My husband never wore (or felt the need for) a jacket - but we were there in BsAs summer. It seems that a nice shirt/sweater works well even in the fanciest restaurants now.
Check out Fodors and TA searches for additional Tango suggestions. My favorite is La Ventana, but we also enjoyed the simple, upstairs show at Cafe Tortoni (do go to the cafe, even if not to the Tango show). Street Tangos or lessons - Yes, San Telmo on Sunday etc.
And for Markets, do not forget the Recoleta Market on Saturdays and Sundays - really interesting and decently made crafts etc. With outdoor bands and good food. Just in front of the Cemetary. Better Ferria than San Telmo (for purchases, that is) or Palermo, IMO.
I was not impressed with the larger leather items - but I think I did not do a good search - so I will depend upon your Trip Report for my next visit. The saddles in the Recoleta shops are gorgeous; but I couldn't convince DH to buy me a horse
Best to you,
~MarnieWDC
You can so very easily - and safely - take either Taxi Ezeiza or a Remis (World Car, VIP or Tienda Leon) from the airport with no advance planning and at less cost than your hotel limo, that this would be money well saved.
I would be VERY careful with an I phone - Crelleston was not a solo tourist; he is a very savy and conscientious traveller who was with someone else - 4 eyes are better than 2. We never had any problems in several trips (taking busses, metro walking day and night - but, not in questionable areas, etc.) but we do heed the recommended cautions.
We did enjoy day trips to Colonia and to the Delta, but I agree with Crelleston that fitting both into your time frame might curtail your enjoyment of Buenos Aires...and you are quite correct - you can decide when you are there depending upon your sense of things, the weather etc.
My husband never wore (or felt the need for) a jacket - but we were there in BsAs summer. It seems that a nice shirt/sweater works well even in the fanciest restaurants now.
Check out Fodors and TA searches for additional Tango suggestions. My favorite is La Ventana, but we also enjoyed the simple, upstairs show at Cafe Tortoni (do go to the cafe, even if not to the Tango show). Street Tangos or lessons - Yes, San Telmo on Sunday etc.
And for Markets, do not forget the Recoleta Market on Saturdays and Sundays - really interesting and decently made crafts etc. With outdoor bands and good food. Just in front of the Cemetary. Better Ferria than San Telmo (for purchases, that is) or Palermo, IMO.
I was not impressed with the larger leather items - but I think I did not do a good search - so I will depend upon your Trip Report for my next visit. The saddles in the Recoleta shops are gorgeous; but I couldn't convince DH to buy me a horse

Best to you,
~MarnieWDC
#4
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
1. Safety. My wife and I spent March in BA. We walked 6-8 miles everyday. We usually had late dinners and always walked back to our apartment. We spent most of our time in Recoleta and Palermo.
I did not bring my DSLR and was happy I didn't. In my case my concern was not safety, but convenience. When you walk for hours each day a pocket camera is much easier. I bought a Panasonic Lumix with 12X zoom. It fit in my front pocket and took great pictures. In areas with many people and perhaps some risk of theft like San Telmo, La Boca or the Subte, it was nice to slip the camera in my pocket.
Don't know about an I phone since we didn't bring any phones with us but I saw many Portinos walking and talking on their phones all day and night.
2. Dress. You will not need a sport jacket unless you want one for warmth. It was still warm in BA when were there. Saw very few men in sport coats during the evening. Shirt and or sweater will be fine.
3. Transportation from airport. Follow Marnie DC's advice. We used Taxi Ezeiza and it was perfect. Cost was 118 P going and 88 P returning. You can contact them through their web site and place a reservation. We did and when we arrived there was a sign with our name on their counter. I don't think it matters though, they are ready for morning arrivals.
4. Street markets. Recoleta on Sat and Sunday (near the cemetary). Palermo around Serrano plaza and Plaza Viejo on Saturdays, San Telmo and Belgrano on Sundays.
There is a lot to do in BA. Make your decision on a day trip after you have been there a few days so you can determine if you can afford the time.
Have a great trip.
I did not bring my DSLR and was happy I didn't. In my case my concern was not safety, but convenience. When you walk for hours each day a pocket camera is much easier. I bought a Panasonic Lumix with 12X zoom. It fit in my front pocket and took great pictures. In areas with many people and perhaps some risk of theft like San Telmo, La Boca or the Subte, it was nice to slip the camera in my pocket.
Don't know about an I phone since we didn't bring any phones with us but I saw many Portinos walking and talking on their phones all day and night.
2. Dress. You will not need a sport jacket unless you want one for warmth. It was still warm in BA when were there. Saw very few men in sport coats during the evening. Shirt and or sweater will be fine.
3. Transportation from airport. Follow Marnie DC's advice. We used Taxi Ezeiza and it was perfect. Cost was 118 P going and 88 P returning. You can contact them through their web site and place a reservation. We did and when we arrived there was a sign with our name on their counter. I don't think it matters though, they are ready for morning arrivals.
4. Street markets. Recoleta on Sat and Sunday (near the cemetary). Palermo around Serrano plaza and Plaza Viejo on Saturdays, San Telmo and Belgrano on Sundays.
There is a lot to do in BA. Make your decision on a day trip after you have been there a few days so you can determine if you can afford the time.
Have a great trip.
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Thank you everyone for the great replies. Obviously my questions were not challenging enough since you all answered them completely and with perfect detail.
I am very excited about my trip (though there is a tiny chance work might force a postponement), and I will try to do a decent trip report upon my return, though this is is not my strong suit.
Thanks again.
I am very excited about my trip (though there is a tiny chance work might force a postponement), and I will try to do a decent trip report upon my return, though this is is not my strong suit.
Thanks again.
#6
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
We were in BA for 6 days this past December and loved it. We had no crime problems as all - but a police man did tell my BF to cover up his watch (it wasnt expensive, but evidentally looked that way!). I wouldnt bring anything you arent willing to part with just in case and use your "big city smarts".
Cabs were so cheap that getting ripped off (provided you are prepared with small bills) isnt that big a deal. One guy did give us the extended tour - but actually turned off his meter when I made a fuss. And that was one guy out of 20 or so! Like cabbies everywhere there were nice ones and grumpy ones helpful ones and not so helpful - we just hailed them all on the street.
My BF and I both had jackets custom made at Silvia y Mario and were very pleased with the service and the jackets. Just go early in your trip so you can get adjustments if necessary and be very clear on what you want. I also got an inexpensive leather jacket at a shop call Crayons and another one at the San Telmo street fair. Who know how good they are but for less then $100, who cares?
They look and fit really nice!
I didnt find as much really unique stuff as I was hoping for but two shops I lover were Corraguppo and Chocolate. Be aware if you have big feet for a gal, you wont find much that fits.
We love La Cabrera - I would just have a reservation made for the first seating so you dont have to deal with the chaos of waiting for a table - just make sure you go to the right one (they arent that far apart). I know others had issues with the service but our guy was great! And less then $100 bucks for a feast that in Seattle would easily be twice that!
Colonia was cute but I dont know if it was worth the time to go over and back. Definately buy your tix online - the terminal is a ZOO! First class, although not necessary, was kind of nice
There is a leather store in Colonia - it is a German brand if you can believe it - that had nice $$$ leather. But there was a purse I passed up that was affordable. It is Christ leather (yes thats really the name
). San Telmo market was really, really fun and there is a lot to see - less antiques and more variety the further you get from the core.
Caminito was really, really, really toursity - and this is from a person that doesnt mind touristy. Good for photo-ops but that is about it. It wouldnt have broke my heart if we skipped it.
Lots of people bash Florida street but we loved it and actually walked around a number of times. There are some decent cheaper boutiques (thats where Crayon was).
The cemetary desrves a guide and a few hours - it was a highlight. And the market that sets up outside had some good stuff if your willing to hunt (I got a great woven shawl - really unique and a good value for $65).
Argentina and Buenos Aires were absolutley amazing. You are going to have a great time. Dont forget to eat as many alfahores as you can - they are hard to find back home
Cabs were so cheap that getting ripped off (provided you are prepared with small bills) isnt that big a deal. One guy did give us the extended tour - but actually turned off his meter when I made a fuss. And that was one guy out of 20 or so! Like cabbies everywhere there were nice ones and grumpy ones helpful ones and not so helpful - we just hailed them all on the street.
My BF and I both had jackets custom made at Silvia y Mario and were very pleased with the service and the jackets. Just go early in your trip so you can get adjustments if necessary and be very clear on what you want. I also got an inexpensive leather jacket at a shop call Crayons and another one at the San Telmo street fair. Who know how good they are but for less then $100, who cares?
They look and fit really nice!I didnt find as much really unique stuff as I was hoping for but two shops I lover were Corraguppo and Chocolate. Be aware if you have big feet for a gal, you wont find much that fits.
We love La Cabrera - I would just have a reservation made for the first seating so you dont have to deal with the chaos of waiting for a table - just make sure you go to the right one (they arent that far apart). I know others had issues with the service but our guy was great! And less then $100 bucks for a feast that in Seattle would easily be twice that!
Colonia was cute but I dont know if it was worth the time to go over and back. Definately buy your tix online - the terminal is a ZOO! First class, although not necessary, was kind of nice
There is a leather store in Colonia - it is a German brand if you can believe it - that had nice $$$ leather. But there was a purse I passed up that was affordable. It is Christ leather (yes thats really the name
). San Telmo market was really, really fun and there is a lot to see - less antiques and more variety the further you get from the core. Caminito was really, really, really toursity - and this is from a person that doesnt mind touristy. Good for photo-ops but that is about it. It wouldnt have broke my heart if we skipped it.
Lots of people bash Florida street but we loved it and actually walked around a number of times. There are some decent cheaper boutiques (thats where Crayon was).
The cemetary desrves a guide and a few hours - it was a highlight. And the market that sets up outside had some good stuff if your willing to hunt (I got a great woven shawl - really unique and a good value for $65).
Argentina and Buenos Aires were absolutley amazing. You are going to have a great time. Dont forget to eat as many alfahores as you can - they are hard to find back home
#7
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Fish, I just posted my travel blog that includes three weeks in BsAs - lived in Recoleta - and I am a single male traveler in his 40's. I think the advise you have gotten thus far is pretty on the money.
I lucked out with a ticket to a futbol match at the Juniors stadium in La Boca - escorted (english guide, pick up/drop off and led into and out of the stadium) ticket was $500 pesos.
The blog is at
http://dontdrinkchampagne.blogspot.com/
Enjoy! You'll have a great time.
I lucked out with a ticket to a futbol match at the Juniors stadium in La Boca - escorted (english guide, pick up/drop off and led into and out of the stadium) ticket was $500 pesos.
The blog is at
http://dontdrinkchampagne.blogspot.com/
Enjoy! You'll have a great time.
Trending Topics
#8
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
We did great leather shopping at Silvio Y Mario's at the top of Calle Florida. They will custom fit/tailor leather coats, sometimes overnight. Both my daughters bought great leather jackets and my husband bought a beautiful leather sportcoat, all of the custom tailored. My daughters essentially designed their own jackets by mixing features of several on display. Prices were really great, compared to LA - don't know about UK. We sent friends there recently who also were very happy.
Have a wonderful trip!
Have a wonderful trip!
#9
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
Very good advice from the others. But to add:
(1) See my recent post on counterfeit bills in Argentina. My husband got counterfeits from an ATM!!!
(2) Re: dress: A nice collared shirt and long pants will take you most places. Dress for the climate. A jacket always looks nice, but not always practical.
FYI: My husband was there on business the week before last and stayed at the Emperador. His colleague's wife tagged along during their trip. When she came down to breakfast one morning in her running shorts, she was turned away as being inappropriately dressed; she changed. The point: there is a difference between appropriate casual, and too casual. (Yes, they are from southern California. And yes, I appreciate some standards to keep things civilized.)
(1) See my recent post on counterfeit bills in Argentina. My husband got counterfeits from an ATM!!!
(2) Re: dress: A nice collared shirt and long pants will take you most places. Dress for the climate. A jacket always looks nice, but not always practical.
FYI: My husband was there on business the week before last and stayed at the Emperador. His colleague's wife tagged along during their trip. When she came down to breakfast one morning in her running shorts, she was turned away as being inappropriately dressed; she changed. The point: there is a difference between appropriate casual, and too casual. (Yes, they are from southern California. And yes, I appreciate some standards to keep things civilized.)
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lmavolio
Mexico & Central America
18
Jul 30th, 2008 02:10 PM




