hello - I'd appreciate advice and suggestions on a proposed itinerary.
I'm a fit/active 55 year woman traveling with my daughter (age 24) and son (age 22).
We'll be in Japan from May 14 - June 2.
We don't enjoy spending too much time in big cities, but instead prefer smaller towns with fewer crowds. However, we will spend 4-5 nights in Tokyo expecting a day trip or two into the countryside. We love the outdoors and beautiful nature, as well as seeing historic sights, eating amazing seafood and local cuisines. We definitely want to experience at least a couple Onsens along the way.
Current draft itinerary and I'm not listing daily activities because we don't like to be over-scheduled. Believe if we get the base stays right we can be flexible while we are there for exploration.
- May 14 - 18: Tokyo in Asakusa neighborhood (believe it's quiet but easily accessible?)
- May 18-20: Hakone - looking to stay in a traditional Ryokan. Wondering if the travel time is worth it for only 2 nights?
- May 21-26: Takayama or Matsumoto - still not sure which and would love advice for a base that allows the easiest travel for exploration of the area surrounding
- May 27-June 2: Big question here, trying to decide if we stay close and spend the remaining time in Kanazawa, or if it's a mistake not to travel to Kyoto for the final 6 nights of the trip. I know Kyoto is culturally rich, but also quite a large and crowded city. So would appreciate ideas about whether we get a similar experience in Takayama or other smaller places? I realize nothing is the same as Kyoto, which is why we are debating this part.
On June 2 I'll travel by train from final location to Narita for 6 pm flight, so seems I could travel there from any final stop. My son will be heading south after I leave.

Ideas or recommendations appreciated!

I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time no matter what you choose – Japan is amazing!

FWIW, I can’t imagine skipping Kyoto. I know it’s become much more crowded than when I was there, but it is so full of temples that I find it hard to believe that one wouldn’t be able to plan a trip that minimizes one’s experience of crowds.

I think there are some corners of other places in Japan that evoke the feel of Kyoto … but visiting them might mean skipping the places that make THOSE places worthy of your time. And of course, it begs the question of what YOU would consider “a similar experience.”

For my tastes, it takes a minimum of 5 nights to see / experience Takayama and Kanazawa – 2 nights in one, 3 in the other. YMMV, and to be clear, my recommendation covers a minimum, fast-paced visit – NOT a leisurely one.

Have you consulted Japan-guide.com? It is, IMO, the ultimate resource for planning a trip to Japan.

Thank you so much for those insights! Would you change anything about this revised itinerary?

- May 14 - 18 (4 nights): Tokyo in Asakusa neighborhood
- May 18-20 (2 nights): Hakone in a traditional Ryokan. Wondering if the travel time is worth it for only 2 nights?
- May 21-23 (3 nights): Takayama
- May 24 - 27 (3 nights): Kanazawa
- May 28 - June 2 (6 days/5 nights): Kyoto

And thank you for the advise about japan-guide.com, I will start to use that information!

That's not a question I can answer -- it depends on what YOU want to see and experience. Off hand, it looks reasonable to me.

Hi
I have a different point of view on your itinerary. You are traveling during the tsuyu (rain) season and it will be extremely hot in the low lying areas especially inTokyo, Kanazawa, Kyoto and Osaka, etc. I have traveled extensively in Japan over the past two decades and only once, (last year lol), did I travel to Japan in the late May-July period. All the hype is real! It will be extremely hot and humid with a possibility of torrential rain.That is why, in the old days, the wealthy locals, emperors, rich nobles, etc. would leave those cities and have places to stay in the mountain areas during this time of year. Tokugawa Iyaesu (Shogun) made his base in Nikko during the summer. In other words I would plan very little time in Tokyo, Kyoto and especially Kanazawa during that time. Also, with your last plan, how do you get to your plane from Kyoto on your last day? Are you flying into Tokyo and back home from Osaka/Kyoto? You might consider a little time in Tokyo and Kyoto with Hakone(I love Hakone) and Hokkaido or Aomori mountain areas thrown in. There is so much there and it will satisfy your desire to stay in the countryside and not in the main cities. One idea would be to fly into and out of Tokyo from your home. When getting to Tokyo you could take a local plane(they are really cheap and reliable) to Sapporo or Asahikawa (second largest city on Hokkaido), rent a car and enjoy the countryside in comfort. I've spent three weeks driving all throughout Hokkaido one year. Car rentals are easy in Japan and driving on Hokkaido a breeze. I use https://www2.tocoo.jp/en/ for my Japan car rentals. Always choose the Nissan options as they are the only rental car company that requires English gps in all their cars. Just a thought to confuse you lol. Ask any questions you may have and we will try to answer.

Aloha!

Good point!
You might check weatherspark.com for excellent climate data.

Hello! Wow that is very different from the research I've done which told me the rainy season doesn't begin usually until June. The weather apps showed that if traveling that region in late May we may get some rain, but will most likely miss the bulk of the tsuyu rains. And it says the temperatures will be mild still as it doesn't get too hot until later June or July. I hope that proves true, but of course with so many climate changes nothing is reliable. If that has been your experience then we may be very disappointed.
I do fly in and out of Narita and was planning to take a train from Kyoto to Narita on my final day.
We hadn't actually considered going to the North end for this trip but appreciate those insights and advice and will start looking into that as an alternative plan.
Thank you!

FWIW, my time in Japan was in May. I had rain part of one day and otherwise beautiful weather. I hope you have the same!

I pretty much visit Japan every year in May and early June - spending time in Kyoto and Tokyo - and I don't remember that much rain or it being that hot....but then again everyone feels the temperature differently....

Thank you so much! Do you have any other thoughts about my proposed agenda?

Thank you so much!! Can you share your favorite places?

If you are asking me I really don't have any comments on your agenda....as far as favorite places, for your first visit I guess I would visit the famous places with all the other tourists...lol. I always like to go to the local Tourist Information Office....for up-to-date info....
Enjoy!!

>> - May 18-20 (2 nights): Hakone in a traditional Ryokan. Wondering if the travel time is worth it for only 2 nights?

Oh, yes, definitely. Good for 1 night stay or even day trip. Your stay is not on a weekend, yay!

>> the research I've done which told me the rainy season doesn't begin usually until June
That is correct (unless you were going to Okinawa). Maybe the tsuyu advice was for a July 2 departure, not June 2.

Of course, this is Japan which means it could rain on any given day, and it is springtime. Don't take umbrellas. They are cheap and available ~everywhere when the rain comes out. You'll probably leave one on the train anyway. Ask your lodging for a loaner. If you buy one you can leave it in Japan, somewhere. One rainy day, I stopped in a shop in Gifu to buy an umbrella but there were none for sale. The owner went in the back and got a large umbrella and gave it to me for no charge. The reason I needed one was because I had left my nice collapsible umbrella on a train on the way to Ise Jingu (it was expensive, bought in Salzburg). Businesses often have umbrella bags or racks at the front door. They say that the two things most stolen in Japan are bicycles and umbrellas, but I think that a good part of that is due to people picking up the wrong one. This is all more than you need to know. (Meanwhile, if you leave your wallet/purse somewhere then very well might still be there waiting for you, intact, or turned in at the business or a nearby koban.)

Your itinerary looks fine. All stops are on the first-time visitor path.
- The May Grand Sumo tournament in Tokyo will be on every day you are there (don't get the box seats with futons)
- A baseball game in Tokyo Dome won't get rained out
- Kenrokuen in Kanazawa should be wonderful (there is a reason everything will be green)
- Kamogawa Odori in May in Pontocho, Kyoto.
- Kyoto might not be too overrun by tourists this year because the CCP advised Chinese not to visit Japan due to a political conflict (mainland Chinese tourist visits down something like 75-80%)

You will probably be too late for
Hama Rikyu Gardens in Tokyo features a renowned peony garden with approximately 1,000 plants and 60 different varieties, blooming in vibrant colors from mid-April to early May.

But still would be nice. You can get there by boat from Asakusa. Instead of going to nearby Tsukiji (which has become a tour trap of sorts) you could, I think, take a boat from HR to Odaiba or somewhere.

-

You need to book your lodging soon. I would have booked this in January or earlier.

Do any of you have tattoos?

Yes, I know, that is what everything Ive read says also. That is why I said that I have a different opinion. I was in Japan this past 5/27/25 till 6/28/25. We flew into Osaka (KIX) and out of Narita. We stayed the first 6 nights in Osaka mainly to see and experience the Osaka EXPO held last year. I realize that is a little later than when you are going but I just wanted to make you aware of what you might run into. Our days in Osaka were the hottest and most humid we have ever experienced there in Osaka. No rain with abundant sunshine all of the days but temperatures in the upper 80's to low 90's with humidity above 70%. We did two daytrips to Kyoto during that time and its the first time we've seen Kyoto with heat smog and muggy. We then headed to the mountains in Hakone and our favorite place in the Hyatt Hakone. From there we headed north to the Tazawako area for a week and on to the Japan Alps,Yamagata region and environs for some ryokan and mountain scenery. When we finally got back to Tokyo for the last 7 nights, we arrived at Shinjuku Station to extremely hot weather of 96 degrees that feels like 101 F it said on my Iphone. The good part was that there was not that much rain (total of 5 days) during the whole trip. Our last full day in Tokyo that all changed when at about 15:00 it started to get really dark then the sky's opened up....I mean torrential thunder and a wicked lightning storm. About 2 hours into the storm the sirens went off in Tokyo. The sirens warned of the flood and meant take cover and get out from underground because of flooding. All train travel was cancelled through Tokyo for a few hours and we hunkered down in our hotel room and watch the show on NHK and our window view. I know it was later in June by this time but I just wanted you to know.
Oh btw, if you by an umbrella there (recommended) buy the ones with the black UV lining on the inside. They will block out the sun light on a sunny day along with protection during a rain session.

Forget about sumo tickets for the May tournament - the site where I bought tickets in the past sent out an email in January advising that they would have no ticket availability for May. Sumo has become more popular lately it seems - possibly because there is a Japanese yokozuna now.

And I meant to mention an umbrella - good for rain and sun....I used to laugh at a Japanese friend who used one in the sun but when it's hot it does really help....and I apologized to her!

Yep, Kyoto can be crowded, but I also can't imagine missing it. The key is to hit the really popular spots *very* early or to avoid them and seek out other shrines/temples/gardens. There are some amazing places that, while popular, aren't swimming with people. FWIW, we had pretty good weather in May a couple of years ago. A few days where it got warm in the plan and 1-2 days of rain, but in general quite comfortable.

In general, I think your itinerary looks good!

Do not miss Kyoto...
Also, Asakusa while a great place to stay was for me a bit far out.