Glover's back from 2 mos. in colonial Mexico - embarassingly long
Mar 5th, 2010 | 02:03 PM
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Glover's back from 2 mos. in colonial Mexico - embarassingly long
When some other winter travel plans fell through, we decided to spend two months in Mexico instead – figuring that we know it well enough by now - and speak just enough Spanish - that we could make the trip up as we went along. (Usually I plan it all and we’ve got at least reservations for the entire trip). Our general plan was to spend a month in Oaxaca, visit some family in San Miguel, spend a few days in Mexico City on the way in and out of the country, and explore some new spots in between: Puebla, Veracruz, Cuetzalan, and Lake Catemaco
Mexico City. We arrived in Mexico City on New Year’s Eve. Great fun to see the city at the end of the holidays. We always stay at the Hotel Catedral right behind the cathedral in the centro historico. Clean as a whistle, nice little restaurant for breakfast, great rooftop, and really cheap! So our NYE was spent with some European hotel guests on the rooftop (it was balmy out that night). We could actually see the bells being rung in the tower of the cathedral, fireworks in the distance. We toasted with beer and nacho chips from the 7/11 down the street. Oddly when we arrived at 8 or 9 we discovered the hotel bar had already closed “for the holiday.” Good for the employees anyway. They recommended the 7/11 for all our NYE needs. Stayed in DF 4 nights, this time checking out the Bazaar Sabado in San Angel and also Xochimilco. Road the turibus around town one day too. All things we’d not done before. It was fun walking around San Angel and looking at arts and crafts – nothing wonderful – just your basic arts/crafts show. Xochimilco was colorful and fun to see too – a cultural event. The metro was easy to figure out for both these locations – and very efficient. Plenty of people on it on Saturday and Sunday! Though didn’t see any other obvious tourists on the trains, we felt perfectly comfortable. LOTS of vendors getting on and off at each stop.
Took the bus to Veracruz – a first visit for us. By this time the weather was starting to get a little cooler and grayer. Really enjoyed the naval museum in Veracruz and the castle and a few other museums. As a port city it felt a bit like New Orleans. Malecon has a beautiful fountain, lots of people out strolling. We stayed at the Holiday Inn in centro – which is actually am historic building, so not at all sterile. Fairly reasonable price included a wonderful buffet breakfast. The place has its charms and we’d go back but rooms are musty. And, like everywhere in Mexico, some nights were LOUD. Our original plan was to go from Veracruz to some new spots – El Tajin, Lake Catemaco and Cuetzalan. Didn’t find much great food close by, so went by cab to Boca del Rio (3 times!) to eat at a wonderful Italian restaurant I picked up from chowhound.com called “Il Veneziano.” We thought we’d stop a night or two in Jalapa on the way to our other destinations. So we took bus from V to Jalapa, but by then weather had really started to get cool and wet. The night in Jalapa was miserable, so we got right back on the bus next day to Puebla, spent a couple nights there and then went on to Oaxaca where we thought it would be warmer – saving the other locations for end of trip.
Puebla was new to us this trip and we really loved it. Centro is beautiful. City feels very sophisticated. We stayed at the very lovely and historic Hotel Colonial- rooms around a restaurant/courtyard. One of the rooms we had (201?) was a huge corner room with French doors on two sides opening onto small balconies. (Rooms vary here.) This place is a really great value. Wonderful location and about $60 a night.
We returned later in the trip and stayed again. But when they were booked one night we moved “down” to the Hotel Imperial. Even cheaper, well located, and comfortable, but charmless. Ate at Meson de la Sacristia 3 times – really wonderful and beautiful. Also loved the very casual, popular taco place “Las Ranas” - where we learned to love tacos al pastor. Hoards of school kids wanted to interview us in the zocalo on Saturday to complete their homework. (Again, not too many of us fair haired tall people in town) As an English teacher I really enjoyed that and worked them as hard as I could. Spent several hours in the Museo Amparo, which is beautiful. Several others we wanted to see though were closed for renovation. (Seems a lot Mexico is being restored and spruced up right now in anticipation of big Bicentenario 2010 which officially begins in Fall. Went to a free folk dance concert at the Casa de La Cultura. And took a trip with tour van to Cholula to pyramids and beautiful churches at Tonatzintla and Acatepec.
Then it was on to Oaxaca. Made a reservation from Puebla for a couple nights at Casa Arnel in Oaxaca. Figured we use that as a base from which to nail down an apt. for a month. (Casa Arnel, a lovely, friendly, BUSY spot in Jalatlaco nabe, has a couple apts too, but they were full). It’s a great deal too – rooms are basic but comfortable and bldg and courtyard are gorgeous. Very helpful and friendly owners/staff also run a tour agency. Spent a day following up on various leads re apts – from the seedy and cheap to the superb and expensive. We settled on what we thought was an excellent deal – a studio apt just across the street from the Santo Domingo church. Talk about location, location, location. I believe the building there has the name: Casa de los frailes. Anyway, it’s the family home of a Mexican woman who probably owns not only a handful of apts there, but the space of the Italian Coffee Shop, another coming commercial concern in front and her jewelry store also in front. (apts. are back a corridor, so were actually (well for Mexico) reasonably quiet. Paid 600 pesos for the month for our smallish studio with good bed, good shower, and a few knives and spoons. We did make a fun trip south of the zocalo to buy a couple really cheap kitchen items to supplement. Ants were free. But we grew to love our little space. Husband said “I step out the door and it feels like stepping into Disney land.” i.e there’s the magnificent church – usually with some festival happening right in front. Internet café was two doors up. Best coffee store was 2 blocks away, as were many excellent restaurants: Casa Oaxaca, Biznaga, Temple, and the cozy Italian “Spaghetteria.” Our plan had been to take some Spanish classes at one of the local schools. But I went to the Oaxaca Lending Library’s intercambio session one Saturday am and there met a great local guy who wanted to practice his English (which was probably better than my Spanish. . . but he didn’t seem to be counting). We agreed that we’d both had PLENTY of grammar – but our issue was conversation practice – so hatched a plan to meet several times a week in front of the SD church to practice. My husband, more of a beginning Spanish student, came along as well. So that was our Spanish class. A great benefit since our friend introduced us to a couple new restaurants – Itanoni for great Mex breakfasts - La Gran Torta – for excellent pozole and gave us lots of other inside scoops. We revisited Monte Alban – such a gorgeous setting as well as interesting site – arranged with tour company on Alcala – van transport only rt less than $5 each. Made only one craft village trip this time - to San Martin Tilcajete. I was specifically looking for an artist whom I had in an English class in Oaxaca a few years before – Jesus Sosa – who makes the colorful wooden animals (alebrijes) as well as other art. Has also exhibited in California and elsewhere, a charming guy. We just hired a taxi to take us out to the little town and asked around for Jesus’ place, down a few dirts roads further and there he was. Great to see him again, and I brought back a beautifully painted deer. (I’m putting in a plug for him here in case anyone is on their way there – he does nice work.)
We were determined to get into the mountains around Oaxaca to do some hiking/birdwatching. By asking around A LOT we finally located the in town office of the Pueblos Mancomunados. A terrifically efficient employee there explained to us in flawless English exactly which second class bus to take, all the options available at the pueblos, times, prices, etc etc. We paid her a small admission fee to the communities and made a reservation to stay and hike for at least one night in the community of Llano Grande. The weather next day couldn’t have been better for this trip. Cool and crisp in am/pm and sunny warm and really clear during the day. Bus ride up into the mountains was windy but beautiful. We did a 4 hour hike that afternoon on the community grounds – wooded and mountainous with occasional glorious miradors. We 60 somethings thought we were in pretty good general and hiking shape. Hmmm. . the pace set by our indigenous guide was a slow run. We think it was beautiful up there, but didn’t have much chance to tell. We were running to keep up with him. Tried to slow him down, but it didn’t work. Oh well. And then when we returned to “town” (fewer than 100 people), it turned out that our cabin was up a short steep hill. We were whipped. After a brief rest we limped back down the hill for dinner at one of the “restaurants.” This turned out to be a long picnic table in the owner’s kitchen, where we had some soup (it was COLD at night), quesadillas, and beer. Then walked home (with flashlight) in pitch dark. Cabins (recently built by the community) were great. Comfy beds with 2 wool blankets and the deepest fireplace I’d ever seen (boy did it draw). Guide built us a roaring fire. Slept like the dead. Next am, after a 3 minute 2 person hot shower (we were warned), we had breakfast at another tiny spot and went off hiking to the next town with a different, somewhat slower guide. This hike was across more open land, but equally beautiful. Saw a beautiful speckled (?) tanager. In about 3 hours or so we reached the somewhat larger village of Cuayimoloyas, from which we took a shared taxi back down to Oaxaca. I guess those taxis are permitted to carry 6 people (they’re cars about size of old Toyota corollas). People got in and out as we journeyed down hill. I became very close to a young British guy who sat virtually in my lap, and husband made similar acquaintance in back seat with young mother, baby, and another young guy. Taxi driver zipped down the mts. Another clear day with beautiful views on the way. Just glad we lived to tell the tale. We laughed nervously about ending up on the “red” page of Oaxaca’s daily “Noticias” – the back page where the wounded and dead are graphically depicted. The rest of our Oaxaca time was spent seeing its wonderful museums (the culture one next to SD church again, the ethno-botanical gardens again, Tamayo museum (not his work, but his amazing collection of pre-columbian items so welled displayed), and a new jewelry museum. That and hanging at the zocalo for free music and danzon and watching the constant festivals/parades . . . such a great city.
We dragged ourselves away from Oaxaca after our month was up and bused back to Puebla. (Had considered going to Oaxaca beaches since we’ve not yet been, but decided we were running out of time for our itin). Had another great dinner at Meson Sacristia in Puebla and hopped another bus the next am for the 4 hour trip to the little town of Cuetzalan north of Puebla city on the border between Puebla and Veracruz states. This was a wonderful town and we’re so glad we got there! We’d read about it on the internet and just became fixated on getting there for a few days. It’s a cool, misty place in the mts. Town is cantilevered down a steep hill. All stone streets, and many stone buildings. Very indigenous – mostly Nahuats and Totonecs in the area. They come to town for market – which is especially large on Sunday – tiny barefoot women with live turkeys in shopping bags. Similarly tiny older men dressed all in white with sandals and hats. Meat vendors with pigs heads and esophagus’ A beautiful church in the center of town adorned with palm. The voladores (the dancers who climb the pole and then fly upside down) perform a few times on the weekends in front of the church. We saw a beautiful procession for a saint’s day while we were there. Stayed at the rather upscale (for Cuetzalan) Casa de Piedra – at the bottom of town – great property – beautiful tropical grounds, large rooms with attractive rustic furniture, great shower. Went to dinner that cool evening at Los Jarritos restaurant way UP the hill (owned by same owners of hotel). Great old place, was perhaps a stable (?) before. Live music on Saturday night – a good guitarist who played trova music. Voladores performed in large parking area outside restaurant. Tons of locals looking to take tourists to caves, ruins, around town etc. There were VERY few tourists in town that weekend, so we stood out. We were approached by a gentle young man whom we liked immediately. He became our guide for the next two days. We went with him to Yohualichan, thought to be a ceremonial site built by the Totonacs around 400 A.D. A nice site with several pyramids decorated along the base with rows of niches. He was so bright and knowledgeable about the area and so articulate (Spanish only mainly) and so patient with our mediocre Spanish, that we engaged him for the next day too. We went for a hike outside town to look at local birds. When it started raining we ducked into the “home” of his uncle for a cup of sweet locally grown coffee. Was VERY interesting to see how this indigenous family lived in the countryside. We had a 3 way conversation in Nahuatl-Spanish-English. We took public transport (small camionetas – pick up trucks with benches in back) each day. We can’t enough nice things about Eustaquio Flores Contreras. He doesn’t have a cell phone but is frequently walking about town selling local jewelry and looking for clients. He checks email often though at [email protected]. Hanging out with him really made our time in Cuetzalan all the more special. We had hoped to bus from Cuetzalan to Papantla in order to visit El Tajin. Couldn’t figure out whether this was possible from internet info. But according to our friend Eustaquio it’s quite doable via micro bus – about a 2 hour trip and not particularly terrifying. The weather forecast was dubious again though so we decided just to bus back to Puebla.
After a night in Puebla, we bused back to Veracruz – staying once again at the Holiday Inn and having another great dinner at Il Veneziano. It was supposedly the day after Carnival but you couldn’t prove it. That Sunday night we passed 3 or 4 music groups performing near zocalo, there was an amusement park set up across street from the HI and loud music went on till 2am! Some said it was yet a different festival!
Next day we hopped bus again (so efficient these Mexican buses) and went 3 ½ hours south to the town of Catemaco, which sits on the side of one of Mexico’s largest lakes – Lake Catemaco. Fortunately we had two nice days there. Highly recommended for nature lovers – and we barely scratched the surface of what’s available in the Catemaco/Los Tuxtlas area. We stayed at La Finca which was an ok overpriced place on the lake. Its pros were its on-lake location, beautiful grounds, and nice staff. It’s a modern turquoise cement pyramid. The rooms are huge, tiled, underfurnished. Kind of like sleeping in a bowling alley – but we had a great balcony on lake. Not very many people there either. . Food in attached restaurant only so so. Location was also nice because it’s possibly only on-lake hotel from which you can also easily walk to the town. The area is known for its witches/shamans etc. There’s a witch convention on the first Friday in March there (hey! That’s today). But we weren’t into that. We went for a boat ride on the lake the next day. Had a great driver with whom we chatted during drive. The standard boat trip stops by a cave where the Virgin was allegedly seen, an island where a group of baboons from Thailand has been left to live in a too small place, and an eco-tourism resort on the other side of lake where there’s a small piece of remaining rainforest. Intent on more serious birdwatching, we tracked down someone I’d read of on the internet – Felix Aguilar, who owns a rustic property “Ecobiosfera” some distance beyond Catemaco. We tried phoning him, but were unsuccessful. At suggestion of our hotel, we just hopped in a cab and had cab take us to the property. Lo and behold there was Felix who was enthusiastic about going out with us spontaneously. We opted to go down to the lagoon dock and find a boatman and launch to go out on lagoon and into mangroves. A terrific trip. The local boatman was even better at spotting things than Felix. Saw 2 trogons, a tiger heron, a sungrebe, beautiful kingfishers, yellow crowned night herons, a black hawk, and a laughing falcon among others. We enjoyed seeing Felix’s property, which amounts to a few rustic but comfortable looking cabins and a great lookout area, saw some indigo buntings there. www.ecobiosfera.com. Felix had some errands in “town” so drove us back to Catemaco. Enjoyed walking around the small town itself. Rather poor but friendly. So many boatmen for so few tourists. . . We never did find any good food in Catemaco though. Would love to go back and spend some more time in both Catemaco and Cuetzalan – surrounding areas.
Catemaco back to Veracruz, then Veracruz back to DF for a night. Then next day DF to San Miguel for 3 nights with family there. Relaxed with family members, met some of their friends, visited the wonderful mask museum and gallery there. Had a really nice dinner at Jackie’s Restaurant – place in the San Antonio neighborhood with beautiful view of town and great food. We’ve been here now many times. Despite there being way too many of “us” (well a wealthier versus of this particular “us”), the city really is a knock out. After SMA, we went back to DF for final 3 nights.
Spent one full day trekking the Frida/Diego/Trotsky trail in San Angel and Coyoacan. Though we’d done that before, we’d both read Barbara Kingsolver’s “The Lacuna” while in Oaxaca, which made us want to go back and review the trail. Took travel book advice and walked down a beautiful street that connects (via a long walk) Coyoacan and San Angel. Realized famous San Angel Inn was directly across from Diego’s studio, so decided we needed to stay at the SA Inn for early dinner (late comida?). It’s indeed a beautiful place and the dinner, which was very tasty, was still a little less than what we’d pay for soup to nuts in DC. We were glad to see that there was no jacket requirement for men in evidence, as noted by some travel books. Our last day we just padded around centro – taking in other museums we’d not been to before (difficult to finish that list), among them the Jose Cuevas museo, which is quite beautiful. Stumbled upon a nice free classical concert there with soloist and pianist. Went for early dinner at Puro Corazon at top of Arte Mexico bldg on zocalo. Cute place – seemed like a young restaurant – not bad food, great view of zoc AND VOLCANOES. Watched as snow covered volcanoes turned pink in the sunset. Then a little while later a full moon rose up next to the cathedral. Sigh. Really nice end to the trip. We’re still looking for that perfect restaurant near the zoc though. Went back to nearby Las Sirenas this time. Nice view, good food, but it’s getting rather ridiculously expensive. And the service was pretty indifferent. Had a meal and couple drinks at Bar Opera, which was fun for the ambience and food ok. Traffic at times makes it rather unappealing to get in cab and go over to Condesa or elsewhere for dinner. Or maybe we’re just lazy.
The further good news was that we missed all of DC’s historic snowstorm, returning to just a few melting remains. As always I was struck by the richness of Mexico – color, history, music, art, great food. Tourists who are bypassing Mexico as a whole and/or Mexico City and other interior colonial cities are really missing so much that’s so close and such a bargain. It’s so much more than just beach resorts. . . . .
Mexico City. We arrived in Mexico City on New Year’s Eve. Great fun to see the city at the end of the holidays. We always stay at the Hotel Catedral right behind the cathedral in the centro historico. Clean as a whistle, nice little restaurant for breakfast, great rooftop, and really cheap! So our NYE was spent with some European hotel guests on the rooftop (it was balmy out that night). We could actually see the bells being rung in the tower of the cathedral, fireworks in the distance. We toasted with beer and nacho chips from the 7/11 down the street. Oddly when we arrived at 8 or 9 we discovered the hotel bar had already closed “for the holiday.” Good for the employees anyway. They recommended the 7/11 for all our NYE needs. Stayed in DF 4 nights, this time checking out the Bazaar Sabado in San Angel and also Xochimilco. Road the turibus around town one day too. All things we’d not done before. It was fun walking around San Angel and looking at arts and crafts – nothing wonderful – just your basic arts/crafts show. Xochimilco was colorful and fun to see too – a cultural event. The metro was easy to figure out for both these locations – and very efficient. Plenty of people on it on Saturday and Sunday! Though didn’t see any other obvious tourists on the trains, we felt perfectly comfortable. LOTS of vendors getting on and off at each stop.
Took the bus to Veracruz – a first visit for us. By this time the weather was starting to get a little cooler and grayer. Really enjoyed the naval museum in Veracruz and the castle and a few other museums. As a port city it felt a bit like New Orleans. Malecon has a beautiful fountain, lots of people out strolling. We stayed at the Holiday Inn in centro – which is actually am historic building, so not at all sterile. Fairly reasonable price included a wonderful buffet breakfast. The place has its charms and we’d go back but rooms are musty. And, like everywhere in Mexico, some nights were LOUD. Our original plan was to go from Veracruz to some new spots – El Tajin, Lake Catemaco and Cuetzalan. Didn’t find much great food close by, so went by cab to Boca del Rio (3 times!) to eat at a wonderful Italian restaurant I picked up from chowhound.com called “Il Veneziano.” We thought we’d stop a night or two in Jalapa on the way to our other destinations. So we took bus from V to Jalapa, but by then weather had really started to get cool and wet. The night in Jalapa was miserable, so we got right back on the bus next day to Puebla, spent a couple nights there and then went on to Oaxaca where we thought it would be warmer – saving the other locations for end of trip.
Puebla was new to us this trip and we really loved it. Centro is beautiful. City feels very sophisticated. We stayed at the very lovely and historic Hotel Colonial- rooms around a restaurant/courtyard. One of the rooms we had (201?) was a huge corner room with French doors on two sides opening onto small balconies. (Rooms vary here.) This place is a really great value. Wonderful location and about $60 a night.
We returned later in the trip and stayed again. But when they were booked one night we moved “down” to the Hotel Imperial. Even cheaper, well located, and comfortable, but charmless. Ate at Meson de la Sacristia 3 times – really wonderful and beautiful. Also loved the very casual, popular taco place “Las Ranas” - where we learned to love tacos al pastor. Hoards of school kids wanted to interview us in the zocalo on Saturday to complete their homework. (Again, not too many of us fair haired tall people in town) As an English teacher I really enjoyed that and worked them as hard as I could. Spent several hours in the Museo Amparo, which is beautiful. Several others we wanted to see though were closed for renovation. (Seems a lot Mexico is being restored and spruced up right now in anticipation of big Bicentenario 2010 which officially begins in Fall. Went to a free folk dance concert at the Casa de La Cultura. And took a trip with tour van to Cholula to pyramids and beautiful churches at Tonatzintla and Acatepec.
Then it was on to Oaxaca. Made a reservation from Puebla for a couple nights at Casa Arnel in Oaxaca. Figured we use that as a base from which to nail down an apt. for a month. (Casa Arnel, a lovely, friendly, BUSY spot in Jalatlaco nabe, has a couple apts too, but they were full). It’s a great deal too – rooms are basic but comfortable and bldg and courtyard are gorgeous. Very helpful and friendly owners/staff also run a tour agency. Spent a day following up on various leads re apts – from the seedy and cheap to the superb and expensive. We settled on what we thought was an excellent deal – a studio apt just across the street from the Santo Domingo church. Talk about location, location, location. I believe the building there has the name: Casa de los frailes. Anyway, it’s the family home of a Mexican woman who probably owns not only a handful of apts there, but the space of the Italian Coffee Shop, another coming commercial concern in front and her jewelry store also in front. (apts. are back a corridor, so were actually (well for Mexico) reasonably quiet. Paid 600 pesos for the month for our smallish studio with good bed, good shower, and a few knives and spoons. We did make a fun trip south of the zocalo to buy a couple really cheap kitchen items to supplement. Ants were free. But we grew to love our little space. Husband said “I step out the door and it feels like stepping into Disney land.” i.e there’s the magnificent church – usually with some festival happening right in front. Internet café was two doors up. Best coffee store was 2 blocks away, as were many excellent restaurants: Casa Oaxaca, Biznaga, Temple, and the cozy Italian “Spaghetteria.” Our plan had been to take some Spanish classes at one of the local schools. But I went to the Oaxaca Lending Library’s intercambio session one Saturday am and there met a great local guy who wanted to practice his English (which was probably better than my Spanish. . . but he didn’t seem to be counting). We agreed that we’d both had PLENTY of grammar – but our issue was conversation practice – so hatched a plan to meet several times a week in front of the SD church to practice. My husband, more of a beginning Spanish student, came along as well. So that was our Spanish class. A great benefit since our friend introduced us to a couple new restaurants – Itanoni for great Mex breakfasts - La Gran Torta – for excellent pozole and gave us lots of other inside scoops. We revisited Monte Alban – such a gorgeous setting as well as interesting site – arranged with tour company on Alcala – van transport only rt less than $5 each. Made only one craft village trip this time - to San Martin Tilcajete. I was specifically looking for an artist whom I had in an English class in Oaxaca a few years before – Jesus Sosa – who makes the colorful wooden animals (alebrijes) as well as other art. Has also exhibited in California and elsewhere, a charming guy. We just hired a taxi to take us out to the little town and asked around for Jesus’ place, down a few dirts roads further and there he was. Great to see him again, and I brought back a beautifully painted deer. (I’m putting in a plug for him here in case anyone is on their way there – he does nice work.)
We were determined to get into the mountains around Oaxaca to do some hiking/birdwatching. By asking around A LOT we finally located the in town office of the Pueblos Mancomunados. A terrifically efficient employee there explained to us in flawless English exactly which second class bus to take, all the options available at the pueblos, times, prices, etc etc. We paid her a small admission fee to the communities and made a reservation to stay and hike for at least one night in the community of Llano Grande. The weather next day couldn’t have been better for this trip. Cool and crisp in am/pm and sunny warm and really clear during the day. Bus ride up into the mountains was windy but beautiful. We did a 4 hour hike that afternoon on the community grounds – wooded and mountainous with occasional glorious miradors. We 60 somethings thought we were in pretty good general and hiking shape. Hmmm. . the pace set by our indigenous guide was a slow run. We think it was beautiful up there, but didn’t have much chance to tell. We were running to keep up with him. Tried to slow him down, but it didn’t work. Oh well. And then when we returned to “town” (fewer than 100 people), it turned out that our cabin was up a short steep hill. We were whipped. After a brief rest we limped back down the hill for dinner at one of the “restaurants.” This turned out to be a long picnic table in the owner’s kitchen, where we had some soup (it was COLD at night), quesadillas, and beer. Then walked home (with flashlight) in pitch dark. Cabins (recently built by the community) were great. Comfy beds with 2 wool blankets and the deepest fireplace I’d ever seen (boy did it draw). Guide built us a roaring fire. Slept like the dead. Next am, after a 3 minute 2 person hot shower (we were warned), we had breakfast at another tiny spot and went off hiking to the next town with a different, somewhat slower guide. This hike was across more open land, but equally beautiful. Saw a beautiful speckled (?) tanager. In about 3 hours or so we reached the somewhat larger village of Cuayimoloyas, from which we took a shared taxi back down to Oaxaca. I guess those taxis are permitted to carry 6 people (they’re cars about size of old Toyota corollas). People got in and out as we journeyed down hill. I became very close to a young British guy who sat virtually in my lap, and husband made similar acquaintance in back seat with young mother, baby, and another young guy. Taxi driver zipped down the mts. Another clear day with beautiful views on the way. Just glad we lived to tell the tale. We laughed nervously about ending up on the “red” page of Oaxaca’s daily “Noticias” – the back page where the wounded and dead are graphically depicted. The rest of our Oaxaca time was spent seeing its wonderful museums (the culture one next to SD church again, the ethno-botanical gardens again, Tamayo museum (not his work, but his amazing collection of pre-columbian items so welled displayed), and a new jewelry museum. That and hanging at the zocalo for free music and danzon and watching the constant festivals/parades . . . such a great city.
We dragged ourselves away from Oaxaca after our month was up and bused back to Puebla. (Had considered going to Oaxaca beaches since we’ve not yet been, but decided we were running out of time for our itin). Had another great dinner at Meson Sacristia in Puebla and hopped another bus the next am for the 4 hour trip to the little town of Cuetzalan north of Puebla city on the border between Puebla and Veracruz states. This was a wonderful town and we’re so glad we got there! We’d read about it on the internet and just became fixated on getting there for a few days. It’s a cool, misty place in the mts. Town is cantilevered down a steep hill. All stone streets, and many stone buildings. Very indigenous – mostly Nahuats and Totonecs in the area. They come to town for market – which is especially large on Sunday – tiny barefoot women with live turkeys in shopping bags. Similarly tiny older men dressed all in white with sandals and hats. Meat vendors with pigs heads and esophagus’ A beautiful church in the center of town adorned with palm. The voladores (the dancers who climb the pole and then fly upside down) perform a few times on the weekends in front of the church. We saw a beautiful procession for a saint’s day while we were there. Stayed at the rather upscale (for Cuetzalan) Casa de Piedra – at the bottom of town – great property – beautiful tropical grounds, large rooms with attractive rustic furniture, great shower. Went to dinner that cool evening at Los Jarritos restaurant way UP the hill (owned by same owners of hotel). Great old place, was perhaps a stable (?) before. Live music on Saturday night – a good guitarist who played trova music. Voladores performed in large parking area outside restaurant. Tons of locals looking to take tourists to caves, ruins, around town etc. There were VERY few tourists in town that weekend, so we stood out. We were approached by a gentle young man whom we liked immediately. He became our guide for the next two days. We went with him to Yohualichan, thought to be a ceremonial site built by the Totonacs around 400 A.D. A nice site with several pyramids decorated along the base with rows of niches. He was so bright and knowledgeable about the area and so articulate (Spanish only mainly) and so patient with our mediocre Spanish, that we engaged him for the next day too. We went for a hike outside town to look at local birds. When it started raining we ducked into the “home” of his uncle for a cup of sweet locally grown coffee. Was VERY interesting to see how this indigenous family lived in the countryside. We had a 3 way conversation in Nahuatl-Spanish-English. We took public transport (small camionetas – pick up trucks with benches in back) each day. We can’t enough nice things about Eustaquio Flores Contreras. He doesn’t have a cell phone but is frequently walking about town selling local jewelry and looking for clients. He checks email often though at [email protected]. Hanging out with him really made our time in Cuetzalan all the more special. We had hoped to bus from Cuetzalan to Papantla in order to visit El Tajin. Couldn’t figure out whether this was possible from internet info. But according to our friend Eustaquio it’s quite doable via micro bus – about a 2 hour trip and not particularly terrifying. The weather forecast was dubious again though so we decided just to bus back to Puebla.
After a night in Puebla, we bused back to Veracruz – staying once again at the Holiday Inn and having another great dinner at Il Veneziano. It was supposedly the day after Carnival but you couldn’t prove it. That Sunday night we passed 3 or 4 music groups performing near zocalo, there was an amusement park set up across street from the HI and loud music went on till 2am! Some said it was yet a different festival!
Next day we hopped bus again (so efficient these Mexican buses) and went 3 ½ hours south to the town of Catemaco, which sits on the side of one of Mexico’s largest lakes – Lake Catemaco. Fortunately we had two nice days there. Highly recommended for nature lovers – and we barely scratched the surface of what’s available in the Catemaco/Los Tuxtlas area. We stayed at La Finca which was an ok overpriced place on the lake. Its pros were its on-lake location, beautiful grounds, and nice staff. It’s a modern turquoise cement pyramid. The rooms are huge, tiled, underfurnished. Kind of like sleeping in a bowling alley – but we had a great balcony on lake. Not very many people there either. . Food in attached restaurant only so so. Location was also nice because it’s possibly only on-lake hotel from which you can also easily walk to the town. The area is known for its witches/shamans etc. There’s a witch convention on the first Friday in March there (hey! That’s today). But we weren’t into that. We went for a boat ride on the lake the next day. Had a great driver with whom we chatted during drive. The standard boat trip stops by a cave where the Virgin was allegedly seen, an island where a group of baboons from Thailand has been left to live in a too small place, and an eco-tourism resort on the other side of lake where there’s a small piece of remaining rainforest. Intent on more serious birdwatching, we tracked down someone I’d read of on the internet – Felix Aguilar, who owns a rustic property “Ecobiosfera” some distance beyond Catemaco. We tried phoning him, but were unsuccessful. At suggestion of our hotel, we just hopped in a cab and had cab take us to the property. Lo and behold there was Felix who was enthusiastic about going out with us spontaneously. We opted to go down to the lagoon dock and find a boatman and launch to go out on lagoon and into mangroves. A terrific trip. The local boatman was even better at spotting things than Felix. Saw 2 trogons, a tiger heron, a sungrebe, beautiful kingfishers, yellow crowned night herons, a black hawk, and a laughing falcon among others. We enjoyed seeing Felix’s property, which amounts to a few rustic but comfortable looking cabins and a great lookout area, saw some indigo buntings there. www.ecobiosfera.com. Felix had some errands in “town” so drove us back to Catemaco. Enjoyed walking around the small town itself. Rather poor but friendly. So many boatmen for so few tourists. . . We never did find any good food in Catemaco though. Would love to go back and spend some more time in both Catemaco and Cuetzalan – surrounding areas.
Catemaco back to Veracruz, then Veracruz back to DF for a night. Then next day DF to San Miguel for 3 nights with family there. Relaxed with family members, met some of their friends, visited the wonderful mask museum and gallery there. Had a really nice dinner at Jackie’s Restaurant – place in the San Antonio neighborhood with beautiful view of town and great food. We’ve been here now many times. Despite there being way too many of “us” (well a wealthier versus of this particular “us”), the city really is a knock out. After SMA, we went back to DF for final 3 nights.
Spent one full day trekking the Frida/Diego/Trotsky trail in San Angel and Coyoacan. Though we’d done that before, we’d both read Barbara Kingsolver’s “The Lacuna” while in Oaxaca, which made us want to go back and review the trail. Took travel book advice and walked down a beautiful street that connects (via a long walk) Coyoacan and San Angel. Realized famous San Angel Inn was directly across from Diego’s studio, so decided we needed to stay at the SA Inn for early dinner (late comida?). It’s indeed a beautiful place and the dinner, which was very tasty, was still a little less than what we’d pay for soup to nuts in DC. We were glad to see that there was no jacket requirement for men in evidence, as noted by some travel books. Our last day we just padded around centro – taking in other museums we’d not been to before (difficult to finish that list), among them the Jose Cuevas museo, which is quite beautiful. Stumbled upon a nice free classical concert there with soloist and pianist. Went for early dinner at Puro Corazon at top of Arte Mexico bldg on zocalo. Cute place – seemed like a young restaurant – not bad food, great view of zoc AND VOLCANOES. Watched as snow covered volcanoes turned pink in the sunset. Then a little while later a full moon rose up next to the cathedral. Sigh. Really nice end to the trip. We’re still looking for that perfect restaurant near the zoc though. Went back to nearby Las Sirenas this time. Nice view, good food, but it’s getting rather ridiculously expensive. And the service was pretty indifferent. Had a meal and couple drinks at Bar Opera, which was fun for the ambience and food ok. Traffic at times makes it rather unappealing to get in cab and go over to Condesa or elsewhere for dinner. Or maybe we’re just lazy.
The further good news was that we missed all of DC’s historic snowstorm, returning to just a few melting remains. As always I was struck by the richness of Mexico – color, history, music, art, great food. Tourists who are bypassing Mexico as a whole and/or Mexico City and other interior colonial cities are really missing so much that’s so close and such a bargain. It’s so much more than just beach resorts. . . . .
Mar 5th, 2010 | 03:12 PM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
This is a very timely report, as we leave for Mexico City, Puebla, and Veracruz next Sun! As you probably discovered in your planning, there is not much current info on Veracruz . . . happy to hear you had a good time.
We also have reservations for Hotel Catedral in MC and for the Holiday Inn in V, glad to hear they are good places to stay. We're staying at the Santiago in P, I stayed there a couple of years ago, nice, cheap, across from the cathedral.
Thank you for your very nice report,
Sandy (in Denton)
We also have reservations for Hotel Catedral in MC and for the Holiday Inn in V, glad to hear they are good places to stay. We're staying at the Santiago in P, I stayed there a couple of years ago, nice, cheap, across from the cathedral.
Thank you for your very nice report,
Sandy (in Denton)
Mar 5th, 2010 | 06:46 PM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 0
Thanks you two- happy to give back, as your names are familiar to me as people I've gotten tips and info from over the years!
hopefullist: thanks for the kudos! Glad you were able to make it through . .
sandy_b: Hard to say what best room might be in either the HC or HI - both good bargains, but subject to noise (is there anywhere in Mexico where this isn't the case?) At Holiday Inn we liked our second floor room that faced the street (larger I think and less mustier than first floor). But several nights there people were practicing their DRUMS! across the street till 11 or 12 - supposedly for carnaval parade - so perhaps that's over. When we returned we noted the amusement park set up across street, so asked for room OFF the street - hence the first floor in back. That was the night loud music went on till 2 - and there were at least 4 directions that coulda come from. HI has computers with free internet too that we made great use of. In many visits to the Catedral we've stayed on numerous floors. By now I'm thinking that rooms on higher floors facing the street are best (and they've got little narrow balconies. The street is actually DEAD after about 9. On the other hand, there may or may not be construction of next door building going on on one side, and Saturday nights sometimes are invaded by disco/bar which we certainly heard from our first floor room that faced the airshaft. So bring your earplugs! After the city took down the skating rink and snow fun that was installed during the holidays they began construction of huge stage area there. Assume it's for the bicentenario and don't know when activities/concerts etc will begin there. Always lots of street performance going on though right around Cathedral. Nice folk dance performance was happening our last night. Another afternoon we stopped by to watch some really amazing break dancers . . . Turibus is right there - two routes - one round centro, condesa, etc. and the other south to San Angel/Coyoacan - we didn't take that, but it might be fun. YOu can get on and off. Also, they're closing off streets in centro now on Sundays for bike riding. Lots of people out riding - looked like fun. Don't know how interested you are in food or kinds - but I went down there with a whole sheaf of recs culled from chowhound, only some of which I used, because as mentioned above we wanted to WALK to dinner. But since you're on your way I'll just mention that MANY people recommended (I've now reread the recs) El Cardenal - which we looked for on the Alameda and never found. However we later found the other location on Palmas not far from zoc. Others recommended El Bajio, which might not be far. And last - someone mentioned "Zefiro" as a good restaurant related to a cooking school - later noticed that it was right on zoc - allegedly open only weekends. Has balcony overlooking zoc. You can only see it if you look up to second or so floor. Found out it's accessible from back of some jewelry store on street level. . . .
Also, desperate for food one Sunday night we ended up at some Argentinian steak joint on Cinco de Mayo just down from the Bar Opera. As I'm remembering the food there was good, and it was a very friendly, inexpensive, casual place.
Have a great time !
Hope you'll enjoy Veracruz. The most interesting part we thought was everything related to the port. Though seemed lots of music (and danzon) in the zocalo. The town further back is quite pedestrian and commercial, 5 million shoe stores. Didn't mention that we also did a day trip to Cempaole and La Antigua, which we found very interesting. We arranged it through the HI's contracted out tour desk - a nice woman we thought very helpful. The hooked us up with a guy named Raphael who spoke great English and was a nonstop font of information. Both stops were interesting! Can't remember what we paid to do that. Was sorry we didn't venture further up into Boca del Rio or beyond - or spend a little more effort searching out some good seafood, but we only had a short time. . . . .
hopefullist: thanks for the kudos! Glad you were able to make it through . .
sandy_b: Hard to say what best room might be in either the HC or HI - both good bargains, but subject to noise (is there anywhere in Mexico where this isn't the case?) At Holiday Inn we liked our second floor room that faced the street (larger I think and less mustier than first floor). But several nights there people were practicing their DRUMS! across the street till 11 or 12 - supposedly for carnaval parade - so perhaps that's over. When we returned we noted the amusement park set up across street, so asked for room OFF the street - hence the first floor in back. That was the night loud music went on till 2 - and there were at least 4 directions that coulda come from. HI has computers with free internet too that we made great use of. In many visits to the Catedral we've stayed on numerous floors. By now I'm thinking that rooms on higher floors facing the street are best (and they've got little narrow balconies. The street is actually DEAD after about 9. On the other hand, there may or may not be construction of next door building going on on one side, and Saturday nights sometimes are invaded by disco/bar which we certainly heard from our first floor room that faced the airshaft. So bring your earplugs! After the city took down the skating rink and snow fun that was installed during the holidays they began construction of huge stage area there. Assume it's for the bicentenario and don't know when activities/concerts etc will begin there. Always lots of street performance going on though right around Cathedral. Nice folk dance performance was happening our last night. Another afternoon we stopped by to watch some really amazing break dancers . . . Turibus is right there - two routes - one round centro, condesa, etc. and the other south to San Angel/Coyoacan - we didn't take that, but it might be fun. YOu can get on and off. Also, they're closing off streets in centro now on Sundays for bike riding. Lots of people out riding - looked like fun. Don't know how interested you are in food or kinds - but I went down there with a whole sheaf of recs culled from chowhound, only some of which I used, because as mentioned above we wanted to WALK to dinner. But since you're on your way I'll just mention that MANY people recommended (I've now reread the recs) El Cardenal - which we looked for on the Alameda and never found. However we later found the other location on Palmas not far from zoc. Others recommended El Bajio, which might not be far. And last - someone mentioned "Zefiro" as a good restaurant related to a cooking school - later noticed that it was right on zoc - allegedly open only weekends. Has balcony overlooking zoc. You can only see it if you look up to second or so floor. Found out it's accessible from back of some jewelry store on street level. . . .
Also, desperate for food one Sunday night we ended up at some Argentinian steak joint on Cinco de Mayo just down from the Bar Opera. As I'm remembering the food there was good, and it was a very friendly, inexpensive, casual place.
Have a great time !
Hope you'll enjoy Veracruz. The most interesting part we thought was everything related to the port. Though seemed lots of music (and danzon) in the zocalo. The town further back is quite pedestrian and commercial, 5 million shoe stores. Didn't mention that we also did a day trip to Cempaole and La Antigua, which we found very interesting. We arranged it through the HI's contracted out tour desk - a nice woman we thought very helpful. The hooked us up with a guy named Raphael who spoke great English and was a nonstop font of information. Both stops were interesting! Can't remember what we paid to do that. Was sorry we didn't venture further up into Boca del Rio or beyond - or spend a little more effort searching out some good seafood, but we only had a short time. . . . .
Mar 5th, 2010 | 07:36 PM
#5
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
WOW WOW WOW ! I love the colonial cities and you all had a great trip.. Kudos to you for winging it. Your report brought back so many memories. I also have stayed at Catedral. I always ask for a quiet room on the interior and thst works well for me. I also LOVED Las Ranas in Puebla- it is on my short list of top 10 meals of my life, as modestly priced as it is. I can still recall licking the pineapple drippings from my tacos arabe from my fingers. And I loved Hotel Colonial also. My room there had a balcony that faced the street on the side where the university entrance is. I hd the best Chiles en Nogada in Puebla in August, have you ever had that dish? I also loved Cholula.
I have wanted to go to Cuetzalan for years, it is on my list. There is a man on thorntree.com who has been there and has documented his stays well on that site and on his webshots pages. Bill Masterson is his name, his name on thorntree is "longford." He also has great pics of Veracruz on webshotsand Puebla; you can search for those.
Cuetzalan:
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554784544yyJrYB
http://travel.webshots.com/album/555101989AqzVfj
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554752405SBRkgZ
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554828541sAeCPF
I was in Oaxaca for day of the dead in 2009, 1st trip back there in over 25 yrs. Loved it, I want to go back. I walked by Santa Domingo church every day as I was at the Holiday inn staying on points back behind the church, it was a nice walk. You got a great deal on that rental!!
I really laughed out loud at your hiking story w/the fast guide, I could see it in my mind, I was tired from just reading it.
Your report is so inspiring! i hope my husband and I can do two months like this in Mexico when we retire...more than once.
I love your style, know what you like and go find it!
I have wanted to go to Cuetzalan for years, it is on my list. There is a man on thorntree.com who has been there and has documented his stays well on that site and on his webshots pages. Bill Masterson is his name, his name on thorntree is "longford." He also has great pics of Veracruz on webshotsand Puebla; you can search for those.
Cuetzalan:
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554784544yyJrYB
http://travel.webshots.com/album/555101989AqzVfj
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554752405SBRkgZ
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554828541sAeCPF
I was in Oaxaca for day of the dead in 2009, 1st trip back there in over 25 yrs. Loved it, I want to go back. I walked by Santa Domingo church every day as I was at the Holiday inn staying on points back behind the church, it was a nice walk. You got a great deal on that rental!!
I really laughed out loud at your hiking story w/the fast guide, I could see it in my mind, I was tired from just reading it.
Your report is so inspiring! i hope my husband and I can do two months like this in Mexico when we retire...more than once.
I love your style, know what you like and go find it!
Mar 6th, 2010 | 07:08 AM
#6
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 0
I really enjoyed your report. It showed me a more personal side of Mexico that alot of reports miss. Someday we will get to Oaxaca.
It seems magical and alluring.. Maybe one of those places like Venice or Paris, that steals part of your heart.
It seems magical and alluring.. Maybe one of those places like Venice or Paris, that steals part of your heart.
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Mar 6th, 2010 | 10:20 AM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
Thank you for all the wonderful tips/suggestions. I went to Puebla a couple of years ago on the way to Oaxaca and loved it . . . had my best meal at Taco Tony's. Now I can't wait to try Las Ranas.
We chose Veracruz as we read they don't get many tourists . . . I love going someplace like that and getting a chance to really practice my Spanish.
I've printed off your report to take with us . . . thanks again!
Sandy (in Denton)
We chose Veracruz as we read they don't get many tourists . . . I love going someplace like that and getting a chance to really practice my Spanish.
I've printed off your report to take with us . . . thanks again!
Sandy (in Denton)
Mar 6th, 2010 | 03:00 PM
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
glover, thanks for the great report. We just "discovered" Mexico this year and enjoyed colonial Mexico very much. Our next visit will be Oaxaca and maybe Puebla so I appreciate your info.
We loved Mexico City! I will have to do some research on Veracruz.
We loved Mexico City! I will have to do some research on Veracruz.
Mar 7th, 2010 | 07:06 AM
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 0
Hi Glover,
I enjoyed reading your trip report... especially since I remembered that you commented on my trip report (5 years ago now) when I went to Mexico City that you thought Xochimilco sounded wonderful, but that you didn't have time to visit when you were last in el D.F.... Anyhow, I'm glad you made the trek out to see the canals and gardens now in 2010 (as I know they require the greater part of a day to get to and appreciate). I hope it was equally as festive the day you went as during my visit in 2005.
I'm jealous of all the time you got to spend in central Mexico and you remind me that I must make an effort to go back one of these days, as I feel I've only scratched the surface...
Best wishes, Daniel
I enjoyed reading your trip report... especially since I remembered that you commented on my trip report (5 years ago now) when I went to Mexico City that you thought Xochimilco sounded wonderful, but that you didn't have time to visit when you were last in el D.F.... Anyhow, I'm glad you made the trek out to see the canals and gardens now in 2010 (as I know they require the greater part of a day to get to and appreciate). I hope it was equally as festive the day you went as during my visit in 2005.
I'm jealous of all the time you got to spend in central Mexico and you remind me that I must make an effort to go back one of these days, as I feel I've only scratched the surface...
Best wishes, Daniel
