My wife and I first visited Scandinavia in August 2006, and that trip remains vivid in memory even today. From the unforgettable Norway in a Nutshell journey between Oslo and Bergen, to the breathtaking views of the fjords and rugged coastline as we sailed north on the Hurtigruten, the mystical beauty of the Lofoten Islands, and the sophisticated charm of Stockholm and Helsinki... I could go on. It was a fascinating trip – in many ways it redefined my approach to travel and we promised ourselves we’d return someday. Twenty years later in May, 2026, we finally fulfilled that promise.

We began in Copenhagen and finished in Stockholm, with roughly three weeks in between dedicated to Norway. After spending a few days each in Stavanger and Bergen, we sailed up the Norway coast with Havila Voyages to Tromsø. We rented a car to road-trip through the spectacular islands of Senja, Vesterålen, and Lofoten. After returning the car in Narvik, we took the overnight train to Stockholm.



Unlike our last visit in the fall of 2006, this time we visited in May—an ideal time to experience Norway as it bursts back to life in spring, with limited crowds. The weather was supportive (and largely dry), and the long daylight hours allowed us to make the most of each day. We had three weeks for this trip, but even that felt like it wasn’t enough.

Over the next fortnight, I’ll post this report in instalments, and I hope you’ll enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed experiencing it.

ANUJ,

Hurray Norway!

You have a fantastic itinerary of your journey. Looking forward to your marvelous journey. I will go back to visit Norway in a heartbeat!

On arriving in Copenhagen, we checked into our hotel in Vesterbro - the trendy neighborhood west of the train station. While Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, the city “centre” is very compact and walkable, so made for a perfect start to our trip after a long overnight flight. It is a vibrant city with an eclectic blend of history and modernity.

Walking out of the station, in the direction of the old city, the first stop was the Tivoli Food Hall, for a quick lunch before a long self-guided walk. Tivoli is a garden and amusement park, but we had no interest in the rides.


Indoor stalls at Tivoli food court


Outdoor seating at Tivoli food court


View from the outdoor area


View from the outdoor area


The main entrance to Tivoli


Just around the corner is the main square, Rådhuspladsen, near the Copenhagen city hall (Radhus).


The main square


The dragon fountain, with the Radhus at the back


Popped into the Radhus to have a look, a popular marriage venue - with an ongoing rehearsal


The astronomical clock housed inside (Jens Olsen's World Clock) is one of the most advanced mechanical clocks in the world


The bronze statue of the Danish fairy tale author Hans Christian Andersen, just outside the Radhus gazing at the Tivoli Gardens


We then headed down the main pedestrianized zone - Strøget, lined with shops and restaurants.


At the start of Strøget


Gammeltorv, a square along the way


Nytorv, another square along the way with the courthouse in the back


Lots of shops and cafes, lining the streets


Ocassionally straying a few blocks off the Strøget, rewarded us with some charming historical spots.


Grabrodretorv, a quiet square away from the crowds


The University Quarter, with the Round Tower in view


We reached the end of Strøget, near Amagertorv.


Amagertorv, another square at the end of Stroget


Ostergade, the luxury retail street nearby


We then headed towards Christiansborg Palace, which now houses the parliament, courts and governmental quarters, with some beautiful canal views en route. Sadly, the (free) elevator to the top (The View) offering an eagle eye view of the city was closed.


Along the canal


By the palace


A passenger boat along the canal


We lumbered on down the Havnegade promenade with views across to Christianhavn. The island is home to Freetown Christiania-a unique, self-administered community in Copenhagen, occupying an abandoned military base there. Known for its alternative lifestyle and bohemian atmosphere, it operates largely autonomously from the Danish government.


Passing the famous Kayak Bar


Along the promenade


Views of Christianhavn from promenade

At the sliding bridge, we turned towards Nyhavn (the new Harbour), the gentrified former sailors’ quarter with cafes lining a canal filed with sailboats. Nyhavn is a riot of colors, and expectedly, a tourist magnet.


The swing bridge


First views of Nyhavn


.. with lots of historic wooden ships


.. and the famous coloured houses


.. and cafes along the waterfont


A few iconic shots near and from Nyhavnsbroen, the bridge across the canal.






After passing Kongens Nytorv, we headed passed the church to the Amalienborg Palace and square.


Kongens Nytorv (The King's Square) at the end of the Strøget


Frederik's Church


Palace grounds


We made the long walk down the Larsen Plads to the Little Mermaid statue.


Views from across the water on our long walk -the Opera House


Views from across the water on our long walk - just a factory, but reminded me of Pink Floyd's Animals album cover


The Little Mermaid statue, atop a rock


The statue is unexpectedly small, and even the mermaid wore a surprised expression why the crowds seemed to be drawn to her !


Heading back, we passed through the grounds of the Kastellet, a citadel with several buildings on its grounds, including the Citadel Church and windmill. The area has military buildings, but also serves as a public park.


Entering the Kastellet


The grounds


The church, the windmill sweeps visible behind the roof


Exiting the Kastellet


Our final stop for the day was the Rosenborg Castle (which houses the crown jewels) and the beautiful gardens.


The castle gardens


Approaching the castle


Moat around the castle

Great TR and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Gorgeous pictures ANUJ, we’ve been three times to Scandinavia, but never made it up to Lotofen and Nordkaap. Hopefully we’ll get there some say!

I always remember the Little Mermaid, so little you almost miss her in the crowd. But that was one of my favorite stories as a little girl and I absolutely had to see her!

Waiting for further installments, thanks!

Cherthor Norway had been on our minds for long, your recent TR was the final nudge I needed to act.

esm thank you for following along.

geetika thank you for following along. We didn't get further north than Tromso - though I understand the scenery beyond there gets more stark.

After breakfast in Copenhagen, we took one final stroll around the Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) in Vesterbro, a gentrified former industrial area now packed with restaurants, bars, and galleries.


Vesterbro, exiting our hotel for the Meatpacking District


The Vesterbro Walk of Fame, honouring marginalised locals not celebrities


The arch looked real, but was painted on the wall !


Hafn - a craft distillery producing local spirits like Kødbyens Vodka and bespoke yuzu gins


Popular pubs and cafes


Heading back to Copenhagen Central Station, for the airport train


Post-checkout, we headed directly to the airport to catch our 1.10pm SAS flight to Stavanger.




Stavanger is the fourth-largest city and the oil capital of Norway (with its own petroleum museum!). It sits on the stunning southwest coast, amid dramatic fjords and islands.

We began with a walk through its charming Old Town (Gamle Stavanger) with well-preserved 18th/ 19th century white wooden houses, in the proximity of our airbnb. The Ovre Strandgate is the “main street”, with little stairways to other sidestreets and terraces.












There are a few shops and high end boutiques.






A local architect Einar Heden is credited with the initiative to preserve these heritage houses.


Plaque


We descended to the west side (Strandkaien) of the harbour, passing the terminal for cruises to the Lysefjord and museum.


Descent to the harbour


Along the west side of the Stavanger harbour


Ferries/ boats to Lysefjord


The maritime museum


We walked up the eastern side (Skagenksien) of the harbour, lined with restaurants.


The east side of Stavanger harbour

We then turned in to the Fargegaten, the famously colorful street lined with bars and cafes.






We returned to the harbour by another vibrant street Ostervag.




Both streets have some interesting street art, that is easy to miss if you’re not looking.








Stavanger is also a gateway to adventure, and is best located to access iconic hikes like Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), towering 604 meters above the breathtaking Lysefjord. We decided to take it easy today and savour the city itself, and leave the hiking (our primary reason to visit Stavanger) for the next day.

The trailhead to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) is a short 45 minute drive from Stavanger by road, courtesy the Ryfylke tunnel - the longest (15km) subsea (300m depth) tunnel in the world! We took the Pulpit Rock Tours bus from Stavanger, which offers a few runs a day (and gets you there earliest). There are other options that include cruises on the Lysefjord combined with the opportunity to hike yourself or on a guided basis, but our focus was to hike on our own.




An early morning shot of the quiet Stavanger harbour - a complete contrast to the daytime !


By the Stavanger lake, heading towards our bus stop


We took the early 8am bus to beat the crowd, arrived at the basecamp by 9am and began the climb in the company of very few others. The trail is 3.8km long one way with a ~400m elevation gain. The start itself was ominous with a steep incline (gravel path, followed by stone steps) towards a forest but then flattens out along a boardwalk across a swamp.


Starting at the trailhead


View of basecamp as we got higher


Early peek at the fjord from above the treeline


The plateau


It’s after this that the trail starts getting steep - one section even had chains, some stretches necessitated mild scrambling due to the terrain, until you get to a lake.


Steep sections, with chains


Waymarkers


At the lake


After this you continue climbing over alternating smooth and rocky terrain, encountering some boardwalks and staircases as well. The final stretch is tough but exciting, as you see people in the distance and know a climax is near.


Footbridges


Stairways


.. and a glimmer of hope !


Preikestolen appears as a harmless rocky outcrop from a distance. It’s a real adrenaline rush when you finally get there - incredibly beautiful and equally terrifying! It’s a 600m sheer, vertical drop off the edge of the rock - no fence, no railings, nothing.


Outcrop in the distance


View of the Lysefjord


The Pulpit Rock


Views from the edge


Careful with the cracks !


The inconic fjord view


Getting down is easier on the lungs, but tough on the knees - some steps feature unusually large drops. I couldn't help wonder - first, do the Norwegians have extra long legs? And second, how did we ever manage to get up here? Due to a slight drizzle when returning, we had to be cautious with slippery surfaces - my wife took two tumbles on flat ground, no harm done other than a bruised ego. About 4 hours after our 9am start, we were back at the basecamp in perfect time to catch a 1pm bus back to Stavanger.


Leaving Puplit Rock, we noticed the cruise boat - gives you a sense of scale


And another smaller boat came in


.. gave us a little twirl, and left !


Back at the basecamp

With dramatic views over Lysefjord, and a well-maintained, clearly marked trail, this iconic hike is highly recommended. Hiking shoes are necessary given the terrain. This is no denying this a demanding hike - but even if you’re reasonably fit and not a seasoned hiker, don’t be deterred to attempt it. I understand this is the easiest of the iconic hikes, when compared to the likes of Kjerag and Trolltunga.

Back in Stavanger, we took one last stroll in the Sentrum.


A street market had taken over Stavanger Cathedral Square (Domkirkeplassen)


Stavanger Cathedral : Inside


Stavanger Cathedral : Outside


At Pedersgata, lined with shops and restaurants


St. Petri Church, from Pedersgata - notice the co-incidences with the colour red !

How lovely. Our son loved Copenhagen last year (he had 9 nights there, did some daytrips) - the elegance, the interesting neighbourhoods, the historic sites, the modern stuff, the food scene.

Oh, just read your Stavanger posts, what a nice town, and that hike - that’s a wow of a view!

Preikestolen! What a beautiful cliff outcrop.

When Norwegian said easy trail, by no means it will be easy. The trail may be short, but always with those gigantic Sherpa steps that you need to climb, but the reward after the climb is always outstanding.

Thanks for bringing back all our fond memories of Stavanger. I will be following along your beautiful journey.

What a wonderful start to your trip in one of my favorite cities in Copenhagen. I spent a full week there a few weeks back and it was very enjoyable.

Stavanger looks much more visually pleasing and inviting than what I had previously pictured in my head. For whatever reason, I've always imagined a gray industrial city, perhaps because of it being a center of the oil industry.

Glad that you had a good hike up to Pulpit Rock. Definitely up my alley. I've not made it to Norway yet, given the costs.

Great photos and a really wonderful report. Following along and taking notes.

Adelaidean thank you for following. Am enjoying your ongoing TR, especially as Garda is the one Italian lake we've overlooked so far.

Cherthor coulnt agree more on the Norwegian hiking standards - more on these escapades (and realisations!) later in our TR.

tripplanner001 Stavanger is interesting, would I visit it if it wasn't the access point for Pulpit Rock - maybe not. However, as tourists our exposure beyond the historic/charming centres (in any city, anywhere) is so limited, that the wider (soulless) urban sprawl is something we rarely see.

Paqngo thank you for your kind comments.

This morning we took the luxury express bus (Kystbussen, operated by Nor-Way Bussekspress) from Stavanger to Bergen.




This is an over 4 hour drive taking in some beautiful coastal scenery (enjoyed from panoramic seats on the top deck) including two ferry crossings en route. Over the past few days, I had come to realise that building tunnels and bridges are a national pastime in Norway, much like roundabouts in France and Britain, even where completely unnecessary.


The lounge on ferry #1 from Mortavika to Årsvågen

Arriving Årsvågen


The lounge on ferry #2 from Sandvikvåg and Halhjem

Arrving Halhjem


We arrived by afternoon, checked into our airbnb and spent the afternoon revisiting some of our favorite spots from our 2006 travel memories. Set in the backdrop of mountains, and adorned by the historic wharf (Bryggen) and pastel-colored wood houses lining it's winding cobblestone streets, Bergen is a sheer joy to explore.

On this self-guided walk, we began near the Sentrum at the Ole Pass square and Sailors' Monument, before heading down to the fishmarket (fisktorget).


Ole Bulls Square, named after the Norwegian virtuoso violinist and composer, Ole Bornemann Bull. The National Theater in the backdrop of gardens


The Sailors Monument on Torgallmenningen, Bergen's main pedestrian street


Stromgaten, one of the busy shopping streets of Bergen


Mathallen Fishmarket, this indoor fish market. This didnt exist back in 2006 !


Inside, featuring seafood counters and sit-down restaurants


The historic outdoor fish market ...


Featuring traditional stalls - interestingly, the 2nd grey building of the series of four in the backdrop is our hotel from 2006 - The Scandic Torget !


The old meathouse has also now become a restaurant hub. We detoured a bit from here towards the Bergen cathedral, and returned via Lille Ovregaten, a charming street lined with old, pastel shades buildings.


The old meathouse


McDonald's near the meathouse, the workers were on strike - notice the black and yellow jackets


Next door, Trekroneren's business was booming - they claim to serve the world's best hotdogs (don't ask me, I'm vegetarian!)


Bergen Cathedral


Lille Ovregaten


Alleyways along Lille Ovregaten


Eventually passing a square to ..


... emerge near the funicular base station


Turning towards the right side of the Bergen harbour, we headed towards Bryggen. In the 14th century, Hanseatic merchants from Germany settled in Bergen (to trade grain for stockfish) and it became a major overseas trading center. The surviving wooden buildings on Bryggen (the quay, now a UNESCO World Heritage site) were former warehouses, but now serve as shops, restaurants, and museums.


Some historic buildings to the right, on the way to Bryggen


First view of Bryggen


Frontages


Between and behind the buildings


Between and behind the buildings


Some art boutiques


And local crafts


Exiting back to the waterfont


Continuing ahead


to the end of the Bryggen houses


UNESCO plaque recognising this as a World Heritage Site


Towards the end of Bryggen, by St Mary's Church we stumbled upon a procession headed our way. We enjoyed the spectacle, and followed them to the Bergen fortress where their march continued.


St Mary's Church, built in the 12th century, and the oldest surviving building in Bergen


The Troll Museum, Norway's largest museum dedicated to folklore


At this point we noticed the procession


.. and followed them to the Bergen fortress


Rosenkrantz Tower, on the fortress grounds


With today's travel and a long day ahead of us to follow, we called it an early night.

Today, we decided to join a self-guided excursion to Hardangerfjord. Hardangerfjord is the second longest fjord in Norway after the Sognefjord. The Norway in a Nutshell tour takes you through two main arms of the Sognefjord: the Aurlandsfjord and the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord, which we had previously visited in 2006. The Hardangerfjord was a miss.




We took the 7.25am Skyss bus from Bergen to Norheimsund, timed to co-ordinate with the daily 9am cruise operated by Norled which takes you into the deep reaches of this 179km long fjord. The bus journey, was scenic - initially lush green countryside and coast, till it unexpectedly turned to a snow-clad winter wonderland approaching Norheimsund! We also saw the majestic Steinsdalsfossen waterfall near Norheimsund.


Passing by the pavilion at Bergen lake (Lille Lungegårdsvannet), early in the morning


.. and the beautful cherry blossom by the very quiet lakeshore at this early hour, towards the Bergen bus station


Our bus to Norheimsund


Views from the boat


Leaving Norheimsund harbour


Surrounded by towering mountains, waterfalls, and lush orchards, Hardanger is incredibly scenic and a popular destination for hiking, boating, and sightseeing. We boarded the Norled boat, which passes by / makes short halts at several villages - we chose to disembark at Ulvik, an idyllic spot on the fjord.


The village of Utne


Entering the Sorfjord the narrow finger leading to Odda at its end


The sun shining over the Folgefona glacier, obscured by clouds


The village of Lofthus


The Hardangerbrua, a suspension bridge across the Eidfjorden branch of the main Hardangerfjord


Reflctions in the water, heading towards Ulvik


After strolling around the village of Ulvik, we set off on the famous fruit and cider route (“Siderruta”), connecting three family-owned fruit farms. The route takes in some stunning scenery, and the cider tastings were deliciously refreshing.


Arriving at Ulvik


Our boat drops us off and leaves for the final stop Eidfjord


Bench with a view


Boats


.. and more boats


The signboard at the start of the Cider Route


Our first stop was Ulvik Frukt & Cideri, owned by a friendly couple. We enjoyed our conversation about their history and our first cider flight (a curated tasting of multiple craft ciders, usually served in small glasses on a wooden paddle).


The walking path


Passing by the orchards


Arriving at Ulvik Frukt & Cideri


The shop


The display wall with all their awards


Our cider flight


Views from the tasting room


Views from the tasting room


Our second stop was Syse Gard - the farm produces a wide range of ciders, but also other products like jams, preserves and cured meats.


The signboard


Arriving at Syse Gard


Gorgeous outdoor terrace, but it began to drizzle


So we went inside the shop


And parked oursleves in the tasting room with large windows to relish every sip


Views


Apple trees, flowers in bloom !


Our third and final stop, was Hardanger Saft-og Siderfabrikk - locally referred to as Lekve Gard. We tried some sparkling ciders, and couldn't get ourselves to leave from the panoramic terrace, which we had all to ourselves!


Arriving Lekve Gard


The orchards


The indoor tasting and dining room


The panoramic terrace, all to ourselves


Cider with a view


We retraced our walking route back to Ulvik harbour, enjoying some last views, admiring some beautiful homes lining the fjord (I think I could live here!) and of course, the magical scenery.


Leaving Lekve Gard, heading back to the harbour


Some traditional homes along the shores


..and some gorgeous modern ones


Moving on


But stopping every few minutes, as every corner presents a photo-op. The village of Ulvik in the distance.


We sat on this bench for what felt like an eternity !


Back at the harbour, we rejoined our boat on its return sailing to Norheimsund. Due to a delay in the last (and only bus) back to Bergen that evening, we returned late in the night, and crashed after a rewarding but long (near 12 hours) day out on the fjord.


Boarding our boat for the return sailing


Views on our return sailing, with intermittent spells of bright sunshine and overcast skies with a drizzle


Back in bright and sunny Norheimsund, waiting for our bus to Bergen

Wow. Just wow!