Hello all,
Further to my earlier thread about Morocco which I posted in February. My husband and I are in our seventies and very experienced travellers in Southern Africa. This will be our first trip to Morocco, the first time in North Africa. We will leave on April 13th.
We will have a private guide who will accompany us on our 16 day journey through the country. We will spend three days in Marrakech before traveling through the Atlas mountains via Air Ben Haddou, Telouet, Skoura, Dades to Merzouga where we will spend two nights in the desert. We will then travel North, via Midelt to Fes and Meknčs.

In Marrakech we can pretty much decide for ourselves what we'd like to see. We would also like some time to acclimatize.
Given our ages (I for one am less mobile than I was 10 years ago due to a knee injury) we are not very big fans of crowds. We have no particular interest in shopping, certainly not at the start of our 16 day journey. I am looking for some advice on things to do and see in Marrakech itself.

In every foreign city we visit we usually start off by taking a hop-on-hop-off bus to familiarize ourselves with the city in question. I know that Marrakech also has several of such bus companies but wonder if it would be worth our while as most of the more interesting sights will probably be in the old city. Would love some advice on this.

• Having visited Granada and Sevilla in Andalucia, Spain before we are already quite familiar with the wonderful Moorish architecture. We watched some video's on the Bahia Palace and wonder if, given the above, it would be worth a visit. It is relatively new, 19th century whereas the much older El Badi palace is 16th century albeit mostly ruins.
• the Jamaa el Fna square is of course a must, we realize that, even though it will be very crowded. What would your advice be: a visit during the day or in the evening? Any suggestions on a roof top restaurant overlooking the Jamaa el Fna?
• The Koubba Almoravide is one of the oldest buildings in Marrakech. We would like to visit it. To my surprise it was not mentioned on the list sent to us by our guide.
• The Mellah Spice market is said to be less touristy and nearby the old Jewish quarter. Would that be worth a visit in your opinion?
• The same question about the Tinsmith's square.
• Which of the museums would you recommend?

In general we prefer the less touristy, less crowded parts of any town. Any suggestions, such as restaurants, places to have tea in the afternoon are most welcome. Shukran!

Re: bus tour. As you note, most sites you would probably want to see in Marrakech are in the medina and so not accessible by bus. FWIW, I greatly enjoyed a caleche tour the circled the medina with bits inside it. You can find a caleche for hire just off Jemma el Fnaa; they would be hard to miss.

I found the Bahia Palace sufficiently different from the Moorish architecture in Andalusia to easily merit a visit. I would think your experiences in Spain might provide an informed perspective on what you will see in Marrakech, not a substitute for it. YMMV.

The older Badia Palace is, indeed, in ruins. You will see a bit of the influence of Moorish architecture; not much more. I found it well worth visiting, but perhaps more for the insight into its harem than anything else. (That, and watching a young boy run around the fountains in one area.) Again, YMMV. With so little time in Marrakech, I think you would have to have a very high level of interest in this particular ruin to make it worth your visit. I could be wrong.

When I was there, the Jemaa el Fnaa was busier at night than during the day, but I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to move around at either time – and I abhor crowds. Even during the day, the surrounding restaurants and cafes were packed. If it is possible to reserve any of the roof-top restaurants that overlook the square, all I can say is that I was not able to do so – and I spent a fair amount of time trying.

IMO, the Almoravid Qubba is well worth visiting and is unlike anything else you will see in Marrakech. Not surprisingly, it’s similar in style to Cordoba’s Mezquita; whether you see that as an advantage or disadvantage (given your first bullet) is something I can’t say.

I’m not sure which markets I visited and so can’t advise you on their differences. I thought the Tinsmith’s square heavily geared to tourists; that doesn’t mean I’m sorry to have visited it! You might just want to roam a bit….

Museums in Marrakech … depends on your interests! The museums there that I enjoyed the most were (listed alphabetically)

· Monde des Arts de la Parure
· Mouassine Music Museum (try to see a concert)
· Musee de la Femme
· Musee de Marrakech – which you will find similar, in ways, to the Bahia Palace
· Musee Pierre Berge des Arts Berberes

Restaurants I enjoyed:

· Al Fasia Bueliz (reservation recommended)
· Le Tobsil (reservation necessary)

Places I enjoyed for afternoon breaks:

· Café Clock
· Kozybar
· La Jardin Secret
· La Mamounia
· Odette Rooftop Bar

I hope that helps!

Dear KJA, you are amazing! Thank you so much. We will hopefully be able to make reservations in one of the restaurants overlooking the square through our Moroccan guide.
I also thoroughly enjoyed your long trip report, so thank you also for taking the trouble of sharing your very interesting travel experiences. I loved the pictures too.
A few other practical questions if I may.

• During what time of year did you travel through Morocco?
• You mentioned that the desert can be cold at night. We will be staying for two nights. Do you recommend binging some thermal underwear or would that be too much?
• Beside a good windbraker/rain jacket would I need a separate sweater? We try to travel as light as possible.
• Does one generally leave a tip in restaurants and if so what kind of percentage would you recommend?
• What was your internet solution? Did you buy a separate Moroccan SIM card?

I cannot tell you how happy I am with this Fodor's travel forum. It is wonderful that so many people all over the world are willing to share their experiences. Thank you again!