Hola! It's been months since our life changing winter Spain trip. I do apologize for the delay in reporting, in particular to Scrunchita ( Ekscrunchy) whose many reports helped & inspired me. Apologies to nuestra querida Maribel who patiently awaits my personal two cents about the flamenco we saw this time around. That will follow.
The idea was for my husband to retire in Dec 2024 and then start our new life chapter by vacationing in Spain for 45 days. If I was lucky I'd connect with flamenco friends I met in USA and maybe even meet my distant unknown Spanish relatives for the first time. We designed the trip to include Zamora for that reason without knowing exactly what would happen.

This will be an " informal" off the cuff report ( unlike my blow by blow Segovia/ Pedraza report from so many years past) but now due to my fading memory and less dilligent approach I am just going to wing it. 😁
Please excuse any typos as this is written from my mobile.
So if you're still with me at this point, after leaving Scottsdale behind forever our Spain trip started Xmas Eve 2024 flying from Los Angeles. It covered Madrid on Xmas 🌲, Granada on New Years , Jerez for "Dia de los Reyes Magos" then Cadiz city, Sevilla, Salamanca, Leon, Burgos & Zamora, before returning to Madrid for a final 6 nights ( 47 days total winter days if you count travel days).
We did the bulk of our travel by rental car and that worked well. We traveled via Renfe train only from Madrid to Granada on New Years Eve 🥂 with no issues. Leaving Granada we rented a car & detoured to Benalmadena for lunch with a FaceBook Flamenco friend ( yes) & dropped rental car off in Jerez on Jan 4 hoping to be ready or Jan 6 celebrations . 👑👑👑
We used a taxi on some legs (specifically Jerez to Cįdiz & Cįdiz to Sevilla). We rented car again upon leaving Sevilla and drove without any problem the rest of the time returning it in Madrid We did not keep the rental car for the final week in Madrid it would have been an unnecessary expense and hinderence.

This exact itinerary is not recomended as it was designed to coincide with that of some working flamenco friends. It also shot us up from Andalucia & headed us northbound to the destination of Zamora which was my grandparents' birthpace. It will no doubt appear convoluded and perhaps illogical It was however amazing in so many ways.

45-night Itinerary
Dec 24, 2024 to February 7, 2025
1. Madrid (7 nights) Catalonia las Cortes arrive 12/24/25 Train to Granada
2. Granada (4 nights ) Aurea Catedral arrive 12/31
3. Jerez (6 nights) - Eurostars Asta Regia
4. Cadiz (6 nights) - Aurea Casa Sagasta
5 Sevilla (5 mights) H10 Casa de la Plata
6. Salamanca (3) Hospes San Esteban
7. Zamora (3) Corazon de Zamora Apt
Flex day 27 JAN
8. Leon(2 nights) Hotel My Palace Leon 1/28.
9. Burgos (2) - AC Hotel Burgos 1/30
10. Mad (6) Catalonia Las Cortes 2/1 to 2/7

FLIGHTS On Xmas Eve we traveled on Swiss Air from Los Angeles to Zurich for short layover then on to Madrid Our luggage did not make short transition in Zurich to Madrid and arrived next day. Thankfully we prepared for this mishap with our basics packed in carry on luggage . On our return we flew Madrid to CA on Lufthansa with short lay over in Munich. Lufthansa was somewhat superior but not much.

I have much more to tell you I just hope I can remember it. 😉 First stop Madrid.

PS how do I tag this under SPAIN?

Andale, Amsdoncita!!

I CANNOT wait!!!

ditto…🇪🇸

Thank you Scrunchita & Dannon. If I recall Dannon you may have a knee surgery in the future? I too was supposed to have had my total knee replacement well before this trip. I did not. Twice it was cancelled due to Covid so my time table changed and I decided to go to Spain regardless since we were moving home after the trip.

This is my experience as a disabled ( knee) traveler;

I used a cane always. I walked with more caution ( not a bad thing) We ommited Vejer de la Frontera at Eks & Maribel's warning of the hills & enchanting stairways of Vejer. I learned that I could be on the go if I included sitting periodically to rest & peoplewatch. But I found the need to elevate my leg in the hotel room daily with ice usually after being out 3 or 4 hours. Because of this, we often found ourselves back out and about for ROUND 2 during siesta hours....4/5/6 pm and that was not ideal. Its better to adapt to Spanish time.

I made sure by checking ahead of time via email, that we had rooms with a shower not just a tub.Many had both. I also asked if the room had couch or arm chairs. All of our hotels were 4 star and all of them obliged (but I was persistent and clear since I speak Spanish.) We rejected some rooms upon check in if they appeared too tight for me or didn't have chairs or sofa. We rarely paid much for upgrade but willingly did so when needed. I immediately signed up for loyalty programd upon booking btw. I did not ask for an " accessible " room as I felt someone more needy might require it, but did see some and these rooms are not always bigger. Most accesible rooms are on lower floors.

My orthopedic surgeon give me a pre trip " cortizone cocktail" shot the Friday before leaving. It did nothing at all ( this was not my first rodeo remember I used to be a flamenco dancer) I was instructed on my dosage of non narcotics for pain management ( A combo of Ibuprophen and Tylenol) This was a mistake. American physicians prescribe much stronger dosages of meds compared to the Spanish and after about 8 to 10 days I started to feel nauseous and a malaise that I admit affected by ability to enjoy meals and my overall enjoyment. I used my cane but I did end up walking much more slowly to be careful and took breaks to sit and rest often. Thankfully my husband was very supportive but it was " different" this time. When I needed to refill the Tylenol & Ibuprophen substitute at a Spanish Farmacia the pharmacist was horrified at the dosage I'd been prescribed.
I guess my advice is to be as conservative as possible when dealing with medical issues and " less is best". That applies to medicine AND luggage! 😁

Next entry this evening....The trip itself.

thx for all the knee related information. Very helpful. You seemed to have bravely endured all the obstacles.
My husband is the one facing the surgery, so I don’t wish to travel at the time it may happen.( October)
Fortunately, my legs are in good shape.

Now, if there was only a cure for days long jet lag…😳

Yes Danon that would be great. I usually suffer from jet lag too but fot some reason not this time. Perhaps it was because we arrived in Madrid at Midnight & went to bed?

Day 1 through 7 Madrid Catalonia de las Cortes
We have always wanted to stay at the Catalonia Las Cortes in the Barrio de las Letras. We opted for this hotel due to it's fantastic location next to Plaza Santa Ana and it's unique historical charm. A former 18th century Duke's residence, the hotel feels intimate & although renovated retains a historical feel in the common areas especially. It was fun to get a tour & explanation of the beautiful meeting rooms, lovely large foyers on each floor & impressive staircases. We were shown the room that was the former carriage entrance as well and it really brought that to life for me. This lovely hotel does not feel grand in the sense of size, but there is an air of elegance and history.One feels very " at home" here. Our 3rd floor double room was tasteful and had a traditional bathroom with a separate tub & shower. We specifically ask for these separate showers and prefer them separate so as not to have to step over a tub, nor have the newer half glass partitions that allow water to spray on the tile bathroom floors. The other unexpected detail was the huge size of the bed. It was the largest bed we had ever seen ( and the room average in size) In fact larger than our King bed at home! We were unable to reach each other with our arms outstretched ! Ours was unfortumately not one of the " frescoe" rooms but we felt very happy nonetheless. I assume those may be the suites? Important to note the Catalonia de las Cortes is the only "boutique style" hotel in Madrid for this particular hotel chain. There are several Catalonia hotels now in Madrid proper including a brand new Catalonia on Gran Via. The one near Atocha seems especially convenient too for travelers. We arrived at midnight on Dec 24 so we missed the opportunity to purchase the holiday meal offered especially for "Noche Buena". (The hotel offers breakfast but not lunch or dinner) Nonetheless we had Xmas Eve dinner on the plane....my first taste of MIGAS.. We booked most of our hotels to include breakfast and were so happy we did. The Catalonia Las Cortes offered a delicious breakfast in their cozy breakfast room. There was an array of cured meats, jamon Iberico & chorizos, eggs, vegetables, a variety of breads and tortillas. The very attentive staff ( our server from Venezuela) offered eggs cooked to order if you preferred. Thetmy even prepared individual tortillas de patata even though this was offered on the buffet table. Best of all was the freshly squeezed Orange juice and delicious cafe con leche, (Actually any sort of café) or teas. Itcwas all delicious. We loved this way of travel and brought our " breakfast attire" so we could just have breakfast and then shower afterward & get ready to go out. We felt adequately dressed since this was mainly a tourist hotel with many Europeans in touist outfits. (Later in Salamanca we learned what Spanish ladies of a certain age & background wear to breakfast. &#128562 After breakfast on Christmas we set off to explore the general area. It was brisk and drizzley but not terribly cold. This did not dampen our spirits at all.We walked the somewhat familiar streets as if retracing our steps from ourv ast trip 14 years before. Many businesses remained and others were new but we loved walking a long together saying " la Mayorquina is that way" or "Plaza Mayor is this way"
Sushi was now definately present.
Never in a million years wouldcwe have thought it would take 14 years to return. It is hard when the " rat race" feels like your universe. Maribel had forwarned us to book all our holiday meals in advance and we heeded her advice. Many restaurants were closed on December 25th. We booked Maribel's recomendation very near the hotel
" Parrilla del Barril " Our American timetable still very pronounced throught the entire trip, we reserved a coveted 2 pm spot. There were two similar & related Parrilla del Barril restaurants about ten minutes from our hotel. Of course we arrived at the first one and were graciously escorted two doors away to the second one. But I already longingly glanced at one of their delicious looking " arroces" as it was being served. Apparently one restaurant is best known of meats & the other for fish but both parrillas or grilled dishes. Needless to say we did not regret our choices; Croquetas de jamon, ( boy did we miss these babies) Gambas blancas de Huelva de parrila, rape de tripa negra al ajo , breads, a vegetable that now cannot recall . White wine recomended by Antonio our waiter, ( who was a delight) For desert I chose a creamy rice pudding and Don a simple cheesecake that we would end up seeing everywhere. ( not a Basque cheese cake) It was a great Christmas meal for usand we headed back to the hotel for a little rest because eating makes youbtired 😉 Later we would head to Puerta del Sol which was swaming with tourists and families from many countries....but clearly not the locals who were likely home with family & friends. It was fun in the madness and we happily posed for photos along the way... I will try to share those now hopefully I can do so. 🙂

Madrid Parrilla de Barril

Cheese cake Parrilla de Barril Madrid

Arroz con leche at Parrilla de Barril Madrid

Parrilla de Barril croquetas de jamon DELICIOUS!

Gambas a la plancha Parrilla de Barril

Parrilla de Barril Madrid Lubina ? En mojo de ajo.

Parrilla de Barril Madrid on 12/25

Enjoying your report...but would enjoy it even more with paragraph breaks.

Pretty staircases at Catalonia las Cortes but thank God for elevators ( lifts) !

Long halls = privacy between rooms. All rooms are different.

Catalonia las Cortes. Unusually large king bed. This is NOT typical! ( Yes he gave permission to share this)

English menu at Parrilla de Barril.
https://wp.grupo-oter.net/cartas/ind...lla-el-barril/

There you go my dear. I will be sharing many photos.

Of you cannot srar and hear this photoshow let me know please.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...ibextid=kFxxJD

lol I just realized you said paragraph breaks not photograph breaks 😅🤣

Thank you, following along.

No worries, photos are always appreciated too.

Enjoyed the FB photo show!

I'm with Mel, also enjoyed that FB show. Amsdon, I enjoy the vibe of your TR. Love the greeting nicknames that you & Eks have for each other - outstanding!
Looking forward to your upcoming Andalucian section. We too may have to skip Vejer if we visit this winter, given Mrs Z's ongoing knee issues.

I am done. the Amsdon Report (sounds like a movie title)

This report is more disjointed than my former one years ago. I had discsrded my original ways of written notes in a booklet & index cards. That system worked so well for me. And formerly EVERY SECOND was planned. Now in 2025 there was more strolling, more people watching, more window shopping.and due to the bad knee more sitting and or riding.

Which brings me to the On Off Bus. We happen to like the double decker on off busses. Perhaps because I now had mobility issues. But also I love getting the fresh air on the top level. We also like getting they lay of land up there and will drive it the full route (s) to see the neighborhoods. I use the earphone audio guides even though sometimes they don't work well. I believe they are now offering a QR code like they are doing in the museums & cathedrals so you can just use your cell & own earbuds. But I am still old school and resisting QR codes... which are appearing in some Spanish restaurants too. But not as widely as in the US.
We did the ON Off bus in Madrid, and in Cadiz. Also a small one level city trolly train in Granada. Some people do not think the On Off busses are worth the money. For us they were good. We liked that you could basically use it to get almost every area and got off and back on as intended. From our Hotel Catalonia Las Cortes it was a short walk to the area near El Prado to the kiosk to purchase the tickets. They tickets are sold at a few different places. Since it was just the two of us, it wasn't the end of the world if we briefly stood in the wrong line ( they have a few different routes)
After roaming around on the On Off we also enjoyed the vendors & artists OUTSIDE of El Prado. So much talent there too.

If you go to Madrid often of course these On/ Off buses will not be as appealing or needed. There are a few different companies.
https://madrid.city-tour.com/en/tickets/hop-on-hop-off

We enjoyed a couple of " touristy" but fun restaurants near Plaza Santa Ana in Madrid. One was the Cervecerķa Alemana ( loosely the German Beer garden) There is a table in the front which I loved because it was good for people watching. It's a hussling bustling
casual place that does not close for siesta if I recall but DOES close on time around 12:30 pm. We recommend just about everthing just keep in mind this is convenient historical place not really especially hailed for the cuisine but we were very satisfechos with the croquetas, a nice caldo de la casa, meatballs, octopus, olives bread, beer, wine , various deserts & vafe con leche when you need it. The history is interesting too. They have been open over 120 years!
https://www.cerveceriaalemana.com/main/en/historia