Our return to London (Ten days in May 2025)
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Our return to London (Ten days in May 2025)
It’s been almost two months since my husband (dh) and I got back from our May 2025 trip to London, and I’ve finally caught up at home – with spring yardwork and gardening initially. Then a family trip to the beach for a week. Finally, a few weeks to sort through the many pictures we took. Now, at long last, I have a chance to sit down to write up a trip report, something I love to do after each of our vacations.
We were rather more “touristy” this visit, not visiting any real off-the-beaten-path sites, instead calling this our “re-visit old favorites plus a few new-to-us” trip. But I always get such enjoyment, as well as hidden nuggets of advice, from reading other trip reports, so I thought I’d do a trip report and hopefully provide a bit of that here myself.
But I always add a fair warning – I tend to write lengthy reviews (with pictures!) - so take that into account before you begin reading. 😁 So, give me a few minutes to upload my first post, then on with the report!
We were rather more “touristy” this visit, not visiting any real off-the-beaten-path sites, instead calling this our “re-visit old favorites plus a few new-to-us” trip. But I always get such enjoyment, as well as hidden nuggets of advice, from reading other trip reports, so I thought I’d do a trip report and hopefully provide a bit of that here myself.
But I always add a fair warning – I tend to write lengthy reviews (with pictures!) - so take that into account before you begin reading. 😁 So, give me a few minutes to upload my first post, then on with the report!
#2
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PRE-PLANNING:
We decided on London initially for this year’s trip, since friends of ours had never been and asked if we could play tour guide for them. We were delighted to and began the planning process. A month in, however, issues came up on their end and they had to back out. Since we had only started to book things, all refundable (no plane tix yet), we could have opted out as well. But by this point, dh and I were getting excited to return to one of our favorite cities and decided to just switch to a smaller hotel and keep the rest of the trip, using it to celebrate our 32nd wedding anniversary.
Day 0: (Monday, May 5) Our travel day
We had booked an early evening business class flight out of Newark on United, when I saw a good deal come up, and were able to pick our seats right away. They never once changed, something I had an issue with when we last flew on British Airways. (I did check every Monday morning just in case, though!)
Not wanting to deal with parking at the airport, we asked our daughter to drop us off at one of the NJ Transit stations (Hamilton) and had a relaxing and stress-free ride to the airport station, then a quick 20-minute hop over on the AirTrain (included with the transit ticket.)
We were a bit nervous about Newark’s travel woes in the week leading up to our departure. All the news stations around were happy to run stories of Newark’s “issues” (air traffic blackouts, long delays, many cancellations) and it didn’t help that United kept pushing notifications that we could change our flight with no cost penalty. If you’re on the East Coast, you were probably aware of the situation. We decided to just ride it out, whatever came up, since we had no actual scheduled events on our first day in the UK anyway.
We had no checked luggage and had checked in the night before at home, so we ate an earlier supper in the lounge first, before heading to our gate.

Here's to a good trip!

Grabbing an early dinner in the lounge before our flight.
Neither of us sleep very well on planes, but I think we each managed to get about four hours sleep. Despite the rainy, somewhat foggy weather, our plane took off only about thirty minutes late, mostly due to waiting for a bit in a rather large departure queue. But we made up the time going over and landed at Heathrow early the next morning, right on time.

Dh in his little pod

Sunrise shortly before landing, about 1 am to our tired bodies.

Dh managed to get this shot of Windsor Castle as we were coming in for a landing.
We decided on London initially for this year’s trip, since friends of ours had never been and asked if we could play tour guide for them. We were delighted to and began the planning process. A month in, however, issues came up on their end and they had to back out. Since we had only started to book things, all refundable (no plane tix yet), we could have opted out as well. But by this point, dh and I were getting excited to return to one of our favorite cities and decided to just switch to a smaller hotel and keep the rest of the trip, using it to celebrate our 32nd wedding anniversary.
Day 0: (Monday, May 5) Our travel day
We had booked an early evening business class flight out of Newark on United, when I saw a good deal come up, and were able to pick our seats right away. They never once changed, something I had an issue with when we last flew on British Airways. (I did check every Monday morning just in case, though!)
Not wanting to deal with parking at the airport, we asked our daughter to drop us off at one of the NJ Transit stations (Hamilton) and had a relaxing and stress-free ride to the airport station, then a quick 20-minute hop over on the AirTrain (included with the transit ticket.)
We were a bit nervous about Newark’s travel woes in the week leading up to our departure. All the news stations around were happy to run stories of Newark’s “issues” (air traffic blackouts, long delays, many cancellations) and it didn’t help that United kept pushing notifications that we could change our flight with no cost penalty. If you’re on the East Coast, you were probably aware of the situation. We decided to just ride it out, whatever came up, since we had no actual scheduled events on our first day in the UK anyway.
We had no checked luggage and had checked in the night before at home, so we ate an earlier supper in the lounge first, before heading to our gate.

Here's to a good trip!

Grabbing an early dinner in the lounge before our flight.
Neither of us sleep very well on planes, but I think we each managed to get about four hours sleep. Despite the rainy, somewhat foggy weather, our plane took off only about thirty minutes late, mostly due to waiting for a bit in a rather large departure queue. But we made up the time going over and landed at Heathrow early the next morning, right on time.

Dh in his little pod

Sunrise shortly before landing, about 1 am to our tired bodies.

Dh managed to get this shot of Windsor Castle as we were coming in for a landing.
#3
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Day 1: (Tuesday, May 6): Lots of walking
Knowing we had to keep moving today to get over any jet lag, we first headed to the United arrivals lounge for a relaxing shower (no wait to get one!) and a small snack (breakfast on the plane was filling and actually very good) before leaving the airport. We were staying at the Locke at Broken Wharf, a new location for us. In the past, we stayed in the Earl’s Court area, a straight shot on the Picadilly line. But no worries. We took the Picadilly line as usual, then easily switched to the District line at Barons Court; we rode another eleven stops and got off at Blackfriars.

First ride on the tube this trip

Google maps suggested getting off at the Mansion House station, but others had suggested Blackfriars as it was near a lift down to Paul’s Walk, the path that led directly to the hotel’s entrance. We found out later that getting to the hotel from the Mansion House station involved walking down three flights of stairs, not so good with luggage.

Millennium Bridge - very close to our hotel.

Our hotel - Locke at Broken Wharf
Happily, our room was ready when we arrived, so we dropped off our bags, switched over to using one of our string backpacks, and were on our way again. This time, we did leave from Mansion House, the station we would come to consider our “home” station this trip. From the hotel we did have to slog up those three flights of stairs in the morning, but we usually were well-rested and are able-bodied, so it was never an issue. Those with physical limitations will probably want to use Blackfriars.
Just a quick note: taking the tube from Heathrow to the hotel, we used our phones to tap in and out, but once at the Mansion House station we went ahead and added a 7-day travelcard to our old Oyster cards. We also checked our Oyster card balances (leftover from a past stay in London.) Around £40 each, used later in the trip.
I’ve seen questions come up often as to using credit cards vs. Oyster cards, as well as whether adding on a travelcard is worth it. But for us travelcards were a good option this time:
-we did not have to pay £7 each for Oyster cards, since we had old ones already.
-we would have only gotten a six-day cap with cc (only good Mond – Sunday) and it was already Tuesday when we started out; but the travelcards extended that cap through the following Monday (seven day cap from the day you start, ie Tues – Monday).
-And it did provide small peace of mind as we weren’t taking our credit cards or phones in and out all the time. To make it easier, we brought lanyards with a plastic holder (like what people at business conferences wear) to carry our Oyster cards and they worked well. The signal went through the plastic no problem.
From Mansion House, we tubed (is that a word?
) over to Tower Hill, one of the few concessions we made today, to save our legs the extra walking. Tower Hill is one of our favorite areas of London, and we just meandered a bit taking pictures and enjoying being back.


Knowing we had to keep moving today to get over any jet lag, we first headed to the United arrivals lounge for a relaxing shower (no wait to get one!) and a small snack (breakfast on the plane was filling and actually very good) before leaving the airport. We were staying at the Locke at Broken Wharf, a new location for us. In the past, we stayed in the Earl’s Court area, a straight shot on the Picadilly line. But no worries. We took the Picadilly line as usual, then easily switched to the District line at Barons Court; we rode another eleven stops and got off at Blackfriars.

First ride on the tube this trip

Google maps suggested getting off at the Mansion House station, but others had suggested Blackfriars as it was near a lift down to Paul’s Walk, the path that led directly to the hotel’s entrance. We found out later that getting to the hotel from the Mansion House station involved walking down three flights of stairs, not so good with luggage.

Millennium Bridge - very close to our hotel.

Our hotel - Locke at Broken Wharf
Happily, our room was ready when we arrived, so we dropped off our bags, switched over to using one of our string backpacks, and were on our way again. This time, we did leave from Mansion House, the station we would come to consider our “home” station this trip. From the hotel we did have to slog up those three flights of stairs in the morning, but we usually were well-rested and are able-bodied, so it was never an issue. Those with physical limitations will probably want to use Blackfriars.
Just a quick note: taking the tube from Heathrow to the hotel, we used our phones to tap in and out, but once at the Mansion House station we went ahead and added a 7-day travelcard to our old Oyster cards. We also checked our Oyster card balances (leftover from a past stay in London.) Around £40 each, used later in the trip.
I’ve seen questions come up often as to using credit cards vs. Oyster cards, as well as whether adding on a travelcard is worth it. But for us travelcards were a good option this time:
-we did not have to pay £7 each for Oyster cards, since we had old ones already.
-we would have only gotten a six-day cap with cc (only good Mond – Sunday) and it was already Tuesday when we started out; but the travelcards extended that cap through the following Monday (seven day cap from the day you start, ie Tues – Monday).
-And it did provide small peace of mind as we weren’t taking our credit cards or phones in and out all the time. To make it easier, we brought lanyards with a plastic holder (like what people at business conferences wear) to carry our Oyster cards and they worked well. The signal went through the plastic no problem.
From Mansion House, we tubed (is that a word?
) over to Tower Hill, one of the few concessions we made today, to save our legs the extra walking. Tower Hill is one of our favorite areas of London, and we just meandered a bit taking pictures and enjoying being back.

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Suddenly, dh pointed out several military vehicles coming down the road right near the Tower. Rather important looking, and they were pulling some rather large guns (would that be modern cannons?) So, being ever the nosy people we are, we followed along until they went through a side gate into the Tower area and set up along the Thames.


Along with about fifty other equally curious souls, we found a gate nearby, offering excellent views of the event. Turns out, they were there for a 62-gun salute to celebrate the King’s coronation day (two years already!)




It was exciting to watch – for the first twenty or so firings. After that, we gave up our places to others in the crowd. A bit later as things wound down, we got more pictures from inside a nearby souvenir shop, as all the dignitaries lined up.

Even though we spent more time in the area than we thought we would, we felt lucky stumbling upon such an event. We’d again be just as lucky later in the trip.


Along with about fifty other equally curious souls, we found a gate nearby, offering excellent views of the event. Turns out, they were there for a 62-gun salute to celebrate the King’s coronation day (two years already!)




It was exciting to watch – for the first twenty or so firings. After that, we gave up our places to others in the crowd. A bit later as things wound down, we got more pictures from inside a nearby souvenir shop, as all the dignitaries lined up.

Even though we spent more time in the area than we thought we would, we felt lucky stumbling upon such an event. We’d again be just as lucky later in the trip.
#5
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By this time, morning clouds had given way to bright sunshine, but it was chilly with the wind coming off the water – mid-upper 50s F (about 10+C.) It was well past lunchtime, so we grabbed a few sandwiches and some hot drinks at the nearby Pret, before crossing over Tower Bridge, taking many more pictures along the way - it’s just such a picturesque area.





I love the juxtaposition of new and old
Next stop - Borough Market. A return visit for me, it was new to dh, so we took some time to really see the whole place. It was moderately crowded to walk through, but we never had an issue reaching vendors and only waited a few minutes at most to buy food.

Walking through Borough Market
Since we both love mushrooms, I suggested sharing a bowl from the mushroom risotto stand (yum!!) Dh agreed it was very good. We also picked up some fudge and a meat pie for later. After shopping, we got off our feet for a while at a nearby pub, with a Pimm’s cup for me (apparently made with ginger beer – delicious!) and a pint for dh. We also had a nice conversation with a gentleman on his own for the day, as his wife wasn’t feeling well and stayed back in their hotel room.

Mushroom risotto

Now recharged, we visited the nearby Southwark Cathedral, something I had wanted to do on my last visit but ran out of time for. It was peaceful and beautiful, and an organ was playing in the background as we wandered through. We made a small donation as we left the building.



Then it was back along the Queen’s Walk, heading toward supper at Doggett’s Coat and Badge pub, a favorite. We had wanted to stop along the way at the Tate Modern for the upper-level view of St. Paul’s, but the museum was closed. Probably a good thing, though, as our energy was quickly waning.

Winchester Palace ruins near Borough Market
Even though we had made a supper reservation, Doggett’s wasn’t very busy. We asked to be seated early, and they were happy to oblige.

When dh told me I had fallen asleep for a minute while pondering the dessert menu, we knew we needed to head back to the hotel. The walk to and across the Millennium Bridge, and then along Paul’s Walk, woke us up a bit, but it didn’t take long for us to collapse in bed.

St. Paul's Cathedral view from the Millennium Bridge
Total steps for the day: 21,262





I love the juxtaposition of new and old
Next stop - Borough Market. A return visit for me, it was new to dh, so we took some time to really see the whole place. It was moderately crowded to walk through, but we never had an issue reaching vendors and only waited a few minutes at most to buy food.

Walking through Borough Market
Since we both love mushrooms, I suggested sharing a bowl from the mushroom risotto stand (yum!!) Dh agreed it was very good. We also picked up some fudge and a meat pie for later. After shopping, we got off our feet for a while at a nearby pub, with a Pimm’s cup for me (apparently made with ginger beer – delicious!) and a pint for dh. We also had a nice conversation with a gentleman on his own for the day, as his wife wasn’t feeling well and stayed back in their hotel room.

Mushroom risotto

Now recharged, we visited the nearby Southwark Cathedral, something I had wanted to do on my last visit but ran out of time for. It was peaceful and beautiful, and an organ was playing in the background as we wandered through. We made a small donation as we left the building.



Then it was back along the Queen’s Walk, heading toward supper at Doggett’s Coat and Badge pub, a favorite. We had wanted to stop along the way at the Tate Modern for the upper-level view of St. Paul’s, but the museum was closed. Probably a good thing, though, as our energy was quickly waning.

Winchester Palace ruins near Borough Market
Even though we had made a supper reservation, Doggett’s wasn’t very busy. We asked to be seated early, and they were happy to oblige.

When dh told me I had fallen asleep for a minute while pondering the dessert menu, we knew we needed to head back to the hotel. The walk to and across the Millennium Bridge, and then along Paul’s Walk, woke us up a bit, but it didn’t take long for us to collapse in bed.

St. Paul's Cathedral view from the Millennium Bridge
Total steps for the day: 21,262
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#9
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Coral - thanks! Glad to have you reading along. Plenty more to come. Dh was the photographer for the Windsor Castle pix. He said thanks, too. It was a bit awkward to get pix out the plane window and he was happy with how it turned out.
TDudette - thanks for the anniversary wishes! We had several events come up this trip that completely surprised us. In that regard, it was very special.
Karen - I have to admit, the weather was almost perfect the entire time we were in London and surrounds. We had a few clouds our first and last days, but absolutely no rain. And if you like temps in the 60s to low 70s, you would have really enjoyed it. Hardly any humidity the whole time, either.
Now, I can't speak for future weather, but I think May would probably be the best time to come, out of those four months. My dd and I were in London in Sept. 2023, and it was definitely more humid and warmer. Some of the days we were getting quite sweaty moving around town. And I'm glad not to be there currently, with those high temps. We are getting them, too, but we have ac and are used to them.
Thanks for following along!
TDudette - thanks for the anniversary wishes! We had several events come up this trip that completely surprised us. In that regard, it was very special.
Karen - I have to admit, the weather was almost perfect the entire time we were in London and surrounds. We had a few clouds our first and last days, but absolutely no rain. And if you like temps in the 60s to low 70s, you would have really enjoyed it. Hardly any humidity the whole time, either.
Now, I can't speak for future weather, but I think May would probably be the best time to come, out of those four months. My dd and I were in London in Sept. 2023, and it was definitely more humid and warmer. Some of the days we were getting quite sweaty moving around town. And I'm glad not to be there currently, with those high temps. We are getting them, too, but we have ac and are used to them.
Thanks for following along!
#10
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Day 2 (Wednesday, May 7): St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Imperial War Museum
Not through any forethought on my part, but just by sheer luck I had scheduled our St. Paul’s visit for the one day of the week when the Cathedral didn’t open until 10a. A good thing, too, since after all the walking yesterday, we ended up sleeping very soundly through the night, a solid 10 ½ hours.
Now completely re-energized, we were out of the hotel in record time and on our way to a leisurely breakfast at a nearby Gail’s, on the way up the hill to the Cathedral. After staying near Earl’s Court in the past, it was a novelty to have so many of the attractions in London much closer to our hotel this time, something we will definitely consider for future visits.
After lingering over a yummy breakfast at Gail’s - a couple Americanos (dh) and cappuccinos (me), plus a few pastries - we completed the brief walk to the Cathedral entrance, where after a quick bag security check, we were let in. I had printed our tickets out, just in case, but the digital ones worked fine.


Getting our caffeine fix for the day

Selfie outside St. Paul's Cathedral

Once inside, we took some time to orient ourselves and snap a few pictures of the inside of the Cathedral. As always, it was simply magnificent.





With our behind-the-scenes Triforium Tour scheduled for noon (and with now well-rested legs), we decided to make the climb to the top of the Dome first. I won’t ever call the climb easy but will just say that there are plenty of resting spots along the way. And in some of the trickier spots it’s a one-way hike up; no need to feel you are hindering others behind you or those wanting to come back down.
Just a warning though: the stairs start out very innocent looking, with only a small rise to each. After the first gallery, though, the rise gets taller and a bit harder to climb. At the top, stone stairs transition to a wrought iron (see-through) circular staircase. This see-through nature makes some people (like my dd, on a prior visit) very nervous. My suggestion: just take your time and go slow. There are plenty of handrails.
Sadly, no photos are allowed in the Whispering Gallery, but we got more great shots at the other two levels. Although it didn’t get very warm today – low 60s F by now (about 16C) – the breeze at the two top levels felt refreshing, as we did get a bit sweaty after climbing each set of stairs.

At least they give you fair warning before you start to climb

Nice, easy, low stairs to start

Encouragement along the way

I guess they made them smaller back then

Now on to the harder-to-climb stairs

Stone Gallery - first chance to go outside


Great city views!

Millennium Bridge



Have you ever wondered what they look like from the back?

Reminded me a lot of stairs inside lighthouses.



Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) as seen through the London Eye.
Not through any forethought on my part, but just by sheer luck I had scheduled our St. Paul’s visit for the one day of the week when the Cathedral didn’t open until 10a. A good thing, too, since after all the walking yesterday, we ended up sleeping very soundly through the night, a solid 10 ½ hours.
Now completely re-energized, we were out of the hotel in record time and on our way to a leisurely breakfast at a nearby Gail’s, on the way up the hill to the Cathedral. After staying near Earl’s Court in the past, it was a novelty to have so many of the attractions in London much closer to our hotel this time, something we will definitely consider for future visits.
After lingering over a yummy breakfast at Gail’s - a couple Americanos (dh) and cappuccinos (me), plus a few pastries - we completed the brief walk to the Cathedral entrance, where after a quick bag security check, we were let in. I had printed our tickets out, just in case, but the digital ones worked fine.


Getting our caffeine fix for the day

Selfie outside St. Paul's Cathedral

Once inside, we took some time to orient ourselves and snap a few pictures of the inside of the Cathedral. As always, it was simply magnificent.





With our behind-the-scenes Triforium Tour scheduled for noon (and with now well-rested legs), we decided to make the climb to the top of the Dome first. I won’t ever call the climb easy but will just say that there are plenty of resting spots along the way. And in some of the trickier spots it’s a one-way hike up; no need to feel you are hindering others behind you or those wanting to come back down.
Just a warning though: the stairs start out very innocent looking, with only a small rise to each. After the first gallery, though, the rise gets taller and a bit harder to climb. At the top, stone stairs transition to a wrought iron (see-through) circular staircase. This see-through nature makes some people (like my dd, on a prior visit) very nervous. My suggestion: just take your time and go slow. There are plenty of handrails.
Sadly, no photos are allowed in the Whispering Gallery, but we got more great shots at the other two levels. Although it didn’t get very warm today – low 60s F by now (about 16C) – the breeze at the two top levels felt refreshing, as we did get a bit sweaty after climbing each set of stairs.

At least they give you fair warning before you start to climb

Nice, easy, low stairs to start

Encouragement along the way

I guess they made them smaller back then


Now on to the harder-to-climb stairs

Stone Gallery - first chance to go outside


Great city views!

Millennium Bridge



Have you ever wondered what they look like from the back?

Reminded me a lot of stairs inside lighthouses.



Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) as seen through the London Eye.
#13
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Janis - thanks for reading along! Although we made it to the top of the Dome, we did have to stop for several breaks along the way. (I think maybe we should have gone to the gym ahead of time a little bit more.)
And I do have to admit, between that and all of the steps we were getting each day, we were hurting a bit for the first few mornings, until our leg muscles warmed up!
Susan - thanks! Taking pictures each trip is a big part of the enjoyment for me, and dh has really gotten into it as well. Last year, we re-visited Scotland, and this time he was able to take a lot of scenic shots with his drone; ever since then, it's all I can do to rein him in a bit!
As for climbing the Dome, I never thought I could do it the first time, but those I was with at the time really encouraged and helped me. As they told me, so I share the same advice - just take it slow and steady!
And I do have to admit, between that and all of the steps we were getting each day, we were hurting a bit for the first few mornings, until our leg muscles warmed up!Susan - thanks! Taking pictures each trip is a big part of the enjoyment for me, and dh has really gotten into it as well. Last year, we re-visited Scotland, and this time he was able to take a lot of scenic shots with his drone; ever since then, it's all I can do to rein him in a bit!
As for climbing the Dome, I never thought I could do it the first time, but those I was with at the time really encouraged and helped me. As they told me, so I share the same advice - just take it slow and steady!
Last edited by scraphappylady1; Jul 11th, 2025 at 05:35 PM.
#14
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St. Paul's Cathedral, cont'd
We had some annoying moments at the very top, when a small family of tourists insisted on having a complete photo shoot right at the outside entrance to the Golden Gallery (the last level). Twenty photos I can handle. A hundred-plus, no. We were on the verge of just pushing through (and we are usually very polite people) when they finally finished and slowly moved out of the way. Dh and I just shared an eye-roll with the others behind us who were as (polite but) stuck as we were.
We took our time getting our own photos, all the while mindful of others since the walkway around the outside of the Dome was rather narrow but did get caught in a bit of “traffic” at one point when a large tour group of German students arrived. We needed to suck in our stomachs a bit to get by each other, but they, at least, were all very polite.
Back on level ground, we found the meet-up spot for our Triforium Tour, and after waiting a few minutes for midday prayers (over the loudspeakers) to finish we were on our way. Limited to fifteen people, iirc, the tour starts with a climb up (sigh) about 150 stairs to the Triforium, or as I’ve heard it referred to, the church’s attic.
Our tour included: the wide open Triforium itself, with many displays – “important clutter”; a huge collection of broken stones - Cathedral remains from the Great London Fire in 1666 carefully arranged by architectural style; the beautiful old library, re-opened after renovations in 2023; the fantastic circular Dean’s (or geometric) Staircase; Sir Christopher Wren’s gigantic model of the Cathedral; and what has been called the “BBC view” of the nave, the prime camera spot for filming events, like royal weddings, at the Cathedral. It was my second time on the tour, dh’s first, and we both highly recommend it.

The Triforium

Cathedral remains from the Great London Fire in 1666

The library at St. Paul's




Geometric (Dean's) Staircase

Sir Christopher Wren's Great Model of the Cathedral

"BBC View"
After the tour, we grabbed a bite at the café in the Cathedral’s crypt. It had not been open two years ago when dd and I visited, so it was nice to have this place to sit and get off our feet for a bit. And as we’ve found in the past, these public sites - whether castles, cathedrals or museums – all generally have very good food, usually better than what we would find in similar places here in the US.

Over the entrance to the crypt


Wren's grave in the crypt
Never ones to let valuable vacation time slip by, we next headed out to spend the rest of the afternoon at the Imperial War Museum. After consulting Citymapper, we saw that some buses were running behind schedule, so we took the City Thameslink (same cost as the tube) two stops to Elephant & Castle (not going to forget that stop, with a name like that!) and walked about ten minutes to the Museum.
Having seen the WWI section with dd on our last visit, I asked dh if we could concentrate on the Holocaust section. We spent over two hours here; it was a somber visit, and we couldn’t help but draw so many parallels with the state of things in our country currently.

Imperial War Museum
A quick stop for a cup of tea and a shared pastry, plus a little time in the souvenir shop for dh (while I had a nice chat with the security guard at the main entrance), then we were again off. Supper was in Leadenhall Market tonight, and we wanted to get a few pictures beforehand.
We picked up a bus close to the Museum, heading toward Monument Station. It was a longer ride in traffic, about twenty minutes, but gave us time to chat with a fellow rider; an older woman, she was riding with her Lab dog, Bertie, and offered dh the seat next to her. Dh didn’t want to squish the dog, but she said Bertie wouldn’t mind. And, indeed, he was the quietest, friendliest, most well-behaved pup.
After a few moments, we started chatting, and learned she used to live in London, lives further north now, and still comes into the city for work two days a week. She asked about our trip and gave us some great tips. We had a wonderful conversation and before we knew it, we were at our stop.
Once at Leadenhall, we explored some of the nooks and crannies, taking a few pictures at the Market and of the nearby Gherkin. Even though the pubs here were teeming with the afterwork crowd in their business attire, most of the shops were closed for the night by now.

Leadenhall Market

The Gherkin peeking around the corner

We picked Lamb Tavern for our evening meal and were not disappointed. Since the restaurant part is on the upper level, we requested a table by the window, to look out over the Market. The view – with the lights coming on as it got darker – was beautiful.

Our table in the Lamb Tavern

We went traditional tonight, with sausages and mash, delicious, cooked cabbage, and another Pimm’s for me (this one had prosecco in it so different taste); and fish and chips, and a glass of rose (which he said paired surprisingly well) for dh. We did indulge for dessert – sticky toffee pudding (my favorite) for me, with a glass of port; and an apple crumble and a glass of muscat for dh.
Sufficiently stuffed, we headed back to the hotel, stopping on the way at a small Sainsbury’s Local near Mansion House station for a few groceries, since our room came with a small kitchenette and fridge.


Our "home" station this trip
Our step count today:14,341.
We had some annoying moments at the very top, when a small family of tourists insisted on having a complete photo shoot right at the outside entrance to the Golden Gallery (the last level). Twenty photos I can handle. A hundred-plus, no. We were on the verge of just pushing through (and we are usually very polite people) when they finally finished and slowly moved out of the way. Dh and I just shared an eye-roll with the others behind us who were as (polite but) stuck as we were.
We took our time getting our own photos, all the while mindful of others since the walkway around the outside of the Dome was rather narrow but did get caught in a bit of “traffic” at one point when a large tour group of German students arrived. We needed to suck in our stomachs a bit to get by each other, but they, at least, were all very polite.
Back on level ground, we found the meet-up spot for our Triforium Tour, and after waiting a few minutes for midday prayers (over the loudspeakers) to finish we were on our way. Limited to fifteen people, iirc, the tour starts with a climb up (sigh) about 150 stairs to the Triforium, or as I’ve heard it referred to, the church’s attic.
Our tour included: the wide open Triforium itself, with many displays – “important clutter”; a huge collection of broken stones - Cathedral remains from the Great London Fire in 1666 carefully arranged by architectural style; the beautiful old library, re-opened after renovations in 2023; the fantastic circular Dean’s (or geometric) Staircase; Sir Christopher Wren’s gigantic model of the Cathedral; and what has been called the “BBC view” of the nave, the prime camera spot for filming events, like royal weddings, at the Cathedral. It was my second time on the tour, dh’s first, and we both highly recommend it.

The Triforium

Cathedral remains from the Great London Fire in 1666

The library at St. Paul's




Geometric (Dean's) Staircase

Sir Christopher Wren's Great Model of the Cathedral

"BBC View"
After the tour, we grabbed a bite at the café in the Cathedral’s crypt. It had not been open two years ago when dd and I visited, so it was nice to have this place to sit and get off our feet for a bit. And as we’ve found in the past, these public sites - whether castles, cathedrals or museums – all generally have very good food, usually better than what we would find in similar places here in the US.

Over the entrance to the crypt


Wren's grave in the crypt
Never ones to let valuable vacation time slip by, we next headed out to spend the rest of the afternoon at the Imperial War Museum. After consulting Citymapper, we saw that some buses were running behind schedule, so we took the City Thameslink (same cost as the tube) two stops to Elephant & Castle (not going to forget that stop, with a name like that!) and walked about ten minutes to the Museum.
Having seen the WWI section with dd on our last visit, I asked dh if we could concentrate on the Holocaust section. We spent over two hours here; it was a somber visit, and we couldn’t help but draw so many parallels with the state of things in our country currently.

Imperial War Museum
A quick stop for a cup of tea and a shared pastry, plus a little time in the souvenir shop for dh (while I had a nice chat with the security guard at the main entrance), then we were again off. Supper was in Leadenhall Market tonight, and we wanted to get a few pictures beforehand.
We picked up a bus close to the Museum, heading toward Monument Station. It was a longer ride in traffic, about twenty minutes, but gave us time to chat with a fellow rider; an older woman, she was riding with her Lab dog, Bertie, and offered dh the seat next to her. Dh didn’t want to squish the dog, but she said Bertie wouldn’t mind. And, indeed, he was the quietest, friendliest, most well-behaved pup.
After a few moments, we started chatting, and learned she used to live in London, lives further north now, and still comes into the city for work two days a week. She asked about our trip and gave us some great tips. We had a wonderful conversation and before we knew it, we were at our stop.
Once at Leadenhall, we explored some of the nooks and crannies, taking a few pictures at the Market and of the nearby Gherkin. Even though the pubs here were teeming with the afterwork crowd in their business attire, most of the shops were closed for the night by now.

Leadenhall Market

The Gherkin peeking around the corner

We picked Lamb Tavern for our evening meal and were not disappointed. Since the restaurant part is on the upper level, we requested a table by the window, to look out over the Market. The view – with the lights coming on as it got darker – was beautiful.

Our table in the Lamb Tavern

We went traditional tonight, with sausages and mash, delicious, cooked cabbage, and another Pimm’s for me (this one had prosecco in it so different taste); and fish and chips, and a glass of rose (which he said paired surprisingly well) for dh. We did indulge for dessert – sticky toffee pudding (my favorite) for me, with a glass of port; and an apple crumble and a glass of muscat for dh.
Sufficiently stuffed, we headed back to the hotel, stopping on the way at a small Sainsbury’s Local near Mansion House station for a few groceries, since our room came with a small kitchenette and fridge.


Our "home" station this trip
Our step count today:14,341.
Last edited by scraphappylady1; Jul 11th, 2025 at 05:40 PM.
#15
Original Poster

Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Day 3 (Thursday, May 8): Spitalfields, the British Museum, a tour and a play
Today began early, as I wanted to get to Spitalfields Market first thing at opening (8 am.) The Market is specifically dedicated to antiques and vintage items on Thursdays, and after visiting on my last trip, I was eager to get back.

View from our bed in the hotel room

A very quiet Mansion House station
While I’m certainly not an expert, I have a weakness for silver and happily found a few small pieces I really liked, along with a box of paper memorabilia. It also gave me a chance to use up some of my cash, left over from a prior trip.

Spitalfields Market

Dh isn’t fond of shopping, but he good naturedly offered to be my porter. I told him the lack of luggage space stopped me from buying anything too large – translation in his terms, expensive. He was happy to hear that.
I asked him if he could search through the area and scare us up some breakfast while he waited. He was happy to have something to do, and we soon were sitting at one of the tables provided by the Market enjoying pretty decent egg/bacon/pork/avocado sandwiches, and coffee.
Dh was good about keeping track of time for me (translation: he finished surfing on his phone and was getting antsy to move on) and after just shy of two hours I had seen every booth and was ready to go as well. Next - on to the British Museum.
The last time I went to the Museum (with dd) we accidentally stumbled onto the back entrance on Montague Place. This time, dh and I arrived at the Museum from the front, and after one look at the hordes waiting to enter, deliberately went around back.
To be fair, it was early still - only half an hour after the Museum opened - and the bulk of the crowd were various school groups, but we wanted to see our favorite Egyptian section and knew how crowded it could get. Of course, many people had the same idea. But true to our last visit, the Montague Place entrance was much less busy, and we made it through security in just under ten minutes.
First stop, as noted – the Egyptian section. Even though signs in the area prohibited tour groups from coming in, since the rooms were much smaller and narrower between the display cases, it didn’t stop the school groups from entering en masse. We gave it an hour, then moved on to quieter areas.








Having both visited the Museum in the past, we didn’t feel the need to re-visit too much, although I did want to see the Lewis Chess pieces (only got a glance last time) and especially the Sutton Hoo Hoard again – this exhibit especially, since I had recently started watching a Time Team show about ongoing excavations at the site.

Part of the Sutton Hoo hoard

Purse clasp from Sutton Hoo

Lewis chessmen

We also touched on some of the Assyrian and Greek sections, and spent some time looking over all the timepieces – watches, clocks, etc. – for dh.
Today began early, as I wanted to get to Spitalfields Market first thing at opening (8 am.) The Market is specifically dedicated to antiques and vintage items on Thursdays, and after visiting on my last trip, I was eager to get back.

View from our bed in the hotel room

A very quiet Mansion House station
While I’m certainly not an expert, I have a weakness for silver and happily found a few small pieces I really liked, along with a box of paper memorabilia. It also gave me a chance to use up some of my cash, left over from a prior trip.

Spitalfields Market

Dh isn’t fond of shopping, but he good naturedly offered to be my porter. I told him the lack of luggage space stopped me from buying anything too large – translation in his terms, expensive. He was happy to hear that.
I asked him if he could search through the area and scare us up some breakfast while he waited. He was happy to have something to do, and we soon were sitting at one of the tables provided by the Market enjoying pretty decent egg/bacon/pork/avocado sandwiches, and coffee.
Dh was good about keeping track of time for me (translation: he finished surfing on his phone and was getting antsy to move on) and after just shy of two hours I had seen every booth and was ready to go as well. Next - on to the British Museum.
The last time I went to the Museum (with dd) we accidentally stumbled onto the back entrance on Montague Place. This time, dh and I arrived at the Museum from the front, and after one look at the hordes waiting to enter, deliberately went around back.
To be fair, it was early still - only half an hour after the Museum opened - and the bulk of the crowd were various school groups, but we wanted to see our favorite Egyptian section and knew how crowded it could get. Of course, many people had the same idea. But true to our last visit, the Montague Place entrance was much less busy, and we made it through security in just under ten minutes.
First stop, as noted – the Egyptian section. Even though signs in the area prohibited tour groups from coming in, since the rooms were much smaller and narrower between the display cases, it didn’t stop the school groups from entering en masse. We gave it an hour, then moved on to quieter areas.








Having both visited the Museum in the past, we didn’t feel the need to re-visit too much, although I did want to see the Lewis Chess pieces (only got a glance last time) and especially the Sutton Hoo Hoard again – this exhibit especially, since I had recently started watching a Time Team show about ongoing excavations at the site.

Part of the Sutton Hoo hoard

Purse clasp from Sutton Hoo

Lewis chessmen

We also touched on some of the Assyrian and Greek sections, and spent some time looking over all the timepieces – watches, clocks, etc. – for dh.
#16
Original Poster

Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
In place of lunch, we opted to have afternoon tea, somewhat of a tradition for us now, and I had made reservations for 12:30p. The restaurant got progressively busier as we sat there. While we enjoyed everything that was offered, dh did ask me if he could trade me his salmon sandwich for my ham one.


Out of all the food, we both enjoyed the scones (and clotted cream, yum!) the best, which I found funny later looking back at a picture I took of the menu. They were supposed to be rhubarb, but I never got that flavor while eating them. They were still delicious. We requested, and were charged for, another pot of tea. Not a problem, since we thoroughly enjoyed it, but just something to note for others who might want the same.
Afterwards, we had time to check out a few more areas of the Museum and stop quickly at the gift shop (one of our favorite places to get souvenirs; the quality and choice is great).


Then it was off to the Baker Street station to meet up with our afternoon tour (next to the Sherlock Holmes statue near the station entrance).
Offered through the London Underground Museum, our Hidden London Tour was called Baker Street: The World’s First Underground. As the title states, the station was the home to the beginning of the London metro system, which opened in 1863. We learned the history behind the original underground rail system, which was interesting, and did get to tour some closed-off portions of the station, but I think the online description was a bit more enthusiastic than what we actually experienced. Plus, the cost - £45 each – was a bit steep for what was offered.

Behind the scenes in the Underground

Old tiles from a now closed station

Old elevator shaft now used for ventilation

Huge door also used to help with ventilation in the tube system

Old advertising poster in a now closed tube station
The Underground Museum offers other tours too, but the ones we thought sounded more interesting weren’t offered when we were there. The guides were well informed and engaging, though, so I can’t fault them.
Once the tour was over, we headed to the West End (Covent Garden), for a snack before our evening play. We didn’t need much, since we had the larger afternoon tea, but wanted to check out the tiny little Champagne and Fromage, a few minutes’ walk from our show, “The Play That Goes Wrong.” It was just what we wanted, and both the drinks and cheese dishes were delicious, in a nice, relaxed setting.
We didn’t need to rush through our meal to make our curtain, but others had suggested getting to our seats a bit early, to see some of the “pre-play activity.” I won’t spoil it with details but suffice it to say that if you like moderate slapstick humor, you will enjoy this play. It kept us laughing the entire time.

Duchess Theater for our play tonight

Stage set for the play
We opted to take the bus back to the hotel and got off almost directly in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which made for some wonderful nighttime photos. We didn’t linger too long, since it would be another early wakeup the next day.

Coming off the bus near St. Paul's Cathedral


The Shard lit up for VE Day

The Millennium Bridge, moon in the background

View from Paul's Walk, just outside our hotel
A lot of steps again today: 19,223


Out of all the food, we both enjoyed the scones (and clotted cream, yum!) the best, which I found funny later looking back at a picture I took of the menu. They were supposed to be rhubarb, but I never got that flavor while eating them. They were still delicious. We requested, and were charged for, another pot of tea. Not a problem, since we thoroughly enjoyed it, but just something to note for others who might want the same.
Afterwards, we had time to check out a few more areas of the Museum and stop quickly at the gift shop (one of our favorite places to get souvenirs; the quality and choice is great).


Then it was off to the Baker Street station to meet up with our afternoon tour (next to the Sherlock Holmes statue near the station entrance).
Offered through the London Underground Museum, our Hidden London Tour was called Baker Street: The World’s First Underground. As the title states, the station was the home to the beginning of the London metro system, which opened in 1863. We learned the history behind the original underground rail system, which was interesting, and did get to tour some closed-off portions of the station, but I think the online description was a bit more enthusiastic than what we actually experienced. Plus, the cost - £45 each – was a bit steep for what was offered.

Behind the scenes in the Underground

Old tiles from a now closed station

Old elevator shaft now used for ventilation

Huge door also used to help with ventilation in the tube system

Old advertising poster in a now closed tube station
The Underground Museum offers other tours too, but the ones we thought sounded more interesting weren’t offered when we were there. The guides were well informed and engaging, though, so I can’t fault them.
Once the tour was over, we headed to the West End (Covent Garden), for a snack before our evening play. We didn’t need much, since we had the larger afternoon tea, but wanted to check out the tiny little Champagne and Fromage, a few minutes’ walk from our show, “The Play That Goes Wrong.” It was just what we wanted, and both the drinks and cheese dishes were delicious, in a nice, relaxed setting.
We didn’t need to rush through our meal to make our curtain, but others had suggested getting to our seats a bit early, to see some of the “pre-play activity.” I won’t spoil it with details but suffice it to say that if you like moderate slapstick humor, you will enjoy this play. It kept us laughing the entire time.

Duchess Theater for our play tonight

Stage set for the play
We opted to take the bus back to the hotel and got off almost directly in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral, which made for some wonderful nighttime photos. We didn’t linger too long, since it would be another early wakeup the next day.

Coming off the bus near St. Paul's Cathedral


The Shard lit up for VE Day

The Millennium Bridge, moon in the background

View from Paul's Walk, just outside our hotel
A lot of steps again today: 19,223
#17

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,082
Likes: 1
So many memories from past trips, thanks for sharing. It's interesting to read how much you packed into each day. I'm guessing you're younger and fitter than me.
Where did you have your afternoon tea? We also saw that play a few years ago in London and loved it. So funny and inventive.
Where did you have your afternoon tea? We also saw that play a few years ago in London and loved it. So funny and inventive.
#18



Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 30,540
Likes: 4
I havn't been up St Paul's for 50 years (almost exactly, summer 75) and it is just as I remember it.
In the north of the UK, you ask for a refill of the tea pot (just hot water) which should be free. But in London... who knows.
In the north of the UK, you ask for a refill of the tea pot (just hot water) which should be free. But in London... who knows.
#20
Original Poster

Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Kay - I'm glad you're enjoying the report! We did do a lot this trip, but we tried to strike a balance between one big attraction a day, maybe a few smaller stops and then lots of down time and snacks.
We're not quite retirement age yet, and I do think we could have put in more time in the gym before we started our trip, but we managed those higher step counts pretty well. At least we slept well each night!
The afternoon tea was at the British Museum. We like what they offer and find it works well as a midday break.
We're not quite retirement age yet, and I do think we could have put in more time in the gym before we started our trip, but we managed those higher step counts pretty well. At least we slept well each night!The afternoon tea was at the British Museum. We like what they offer and find it works well as a midday break.


