I did a mad dash in/out of London June June 13-18. The main purposes for the trip were 1) the Cartier Exhibition at the V&A, 2) visiting the brand new V&A 'warehouse' in east London, 3) Giant at the Harold Pinter Theatre, and 4) a tour of 8 College Street in Winchester where Jane and her sister Cassandra lived and where Jane died.

I'm a member of the V&A so I could do the Cartier any time and don't need a ticket -- but Giant is in a limited run and 8 College Street is normally not open to the public - this being the 250th anniversary of her birth it is open for small groups 2 days a week this summer. So I was pretty much focused on sometime late May though early August. Then I learned of a special Canaletto evening with a Vivaldi concert at the Wallace Collection on June 16 so that ended up being my target date.

Plan was fly SMF via either LAX or DFW > LHR on June 13/14 and fly home early on June 19, stay 4 nights in London, train to Winchester for one night, National Express coach Winchester to LHR, overnight at the airport and bacl on a plane in the morning. Assumed I'd fly business but even using the AAVacations discount airfares were astronomical. Like really REALLY high -- more than my first house cost! And I only had enough miles for a small 'co-pay'.

So talked myself into flying Premium Economy (poor me 😢 ) . . . I am sooooo spoiled. Once I'd made that decision I decided to make this a 'budget' trip and stay in a less expensive place and save my pennies for a big splurge later in the year. With memberships at the V&A, Tate's, Nat'l and Nat'l Portrait, etc. all the special exhibitions would be free. And with the London and LHR hotels, play, concert, 8 College Street, and afternoon tea at the National Gallery pre-paid - my only real expenses 'on the ground' would be public transport and meals. woulda coulda shoulda . . . my budget flew out the window when I hit Fortnum & Mason. More on that later.

Flew SMF > LAX > LHR with a 90 minute delay out of LAX arrived at terminal 3 at nearly 6 PM. The latest I've ever arrived transatlantic. And I survive PE Wasn't bad at all - not lie flat or private cubicle of course, but decent bedding, food was 'almost' Business Class quality, and footrests. That last is a biggie for me being so short my feet don't hit the floor and just dangle which is really uncomfortable on a long flight. Weird foot rests though -- I'm not sure how anyone not height-challenged can use them. Even though the seat pitch is generous the extended foot rest is really close and my knees were bent the whole way . . . but still 1000000% better than dangling off the floor.

Got through the e-gates really quickly, topped up my Oyster, and was on the Tube within about 20 minutes of landing. Piccadilly Line to Hammersmith, District to Westminster, and Jubilee one stop to Waterloo - two transfers but not a step or stair the whole way. Hardest part was the 10-ish minute walk from Waterloo to my home for the next 4 nights -- the Marlin ApartHotel in Westminster Bridge road. I booked it as an AAVacation so everything was pre-paid and my studio was great. Only problem was they had made up the sofa sleeper. So I went down to reception (no phones in the rooms) and asked them to close up the sofa - I did try myself first but couldn't figure it out. Popped out to the Sainsbury Local practically next door for dinner stuff for tonight and breakfast things/snacks. By the time I got back my room was all set up. Not posh by any means but I was pleasantly surprised -- Large studio with a couch, side chair, desk, decent bathroom, and a very well equipped kitchenette (full kitchen really but just no oven). Even a dishwasher. Plus full on a/c! Very welcome because the weather was hot verging on HOT the whole 5+ days of my trip. Had a brie and apple sandwich, some fruit and chocolate digestives for dinner and called it a night.

Next: Saturday June 14 - BUSY day. National Gallery (Siena exhibition and afternoon tea), National Portrait (Edvard Munch), in between squeezed in a peek at the Trooping of the Colour return procession (saw the King and everybody!), F&M - doing my bit for the economy, Giant (fabulous but emotionally shattering) and late dinner at San Carlo.

Definitely following along! A V&A Warehouse?! Jane Austen?! Giant! What an experience to visit 8 College Street--so interested to hear. I was looking through my records and it's already been 8 years since I visited Winchester and then Alton/Chawton for my Jane Austen tour. What a treasure she is. Also, can't wait to hear about your Fortnum and Mason haul. Ever since you bought the Christmas Tree, I've wanted one for myself.

Looking forward to more. Every time you write a trip report about London, I want to hop on a plane! 😀

OOPS -- just noticed a mistake. Too late to edit. My flight was over night June 12/13 -- arrived Friday 13th evening. Something just came up in the neighborhood so probably won't get a chance to work on the TR til later tonight. But just re my downfall at F&M . . . I can't post a link because I think it is sold out. (I'll search some more - but if not I'll take a photo and post it later) Its the most gorgeous large leather writing box -- opens up to disclose four small and one large drawer and three mail slots. The outside has brass fittings and it looks like it came straight out of a captain's cabin. I looked at it -- love it but nah -- I don't need it and its expensive £498. Wandered around he store then went back to look at it again -- Nah. Went down to the wine bar and had a glass of bubbly and sales resistance disappeared. The VAT took £99 off the top and shipping was £30 so net was £429.

Yes -- They are building a new V&A true 'museum' out in Stratford which is supposed to open next year. But first the new Storehouse and conservation centre opened May 31. (the Princess of Wales beat me by 4 days - she visited on June 10). https://www.vam.ac.uk/east - It is AMAZING.

janisj, I love these quick and fun trips you make to London! My mum was a huge Austen fan, moi not as much, but I grew up reading and discussing her books, so I can’t wait to hear more…

Love hearing about your travels.
As soon as I read about the writing box I thought how much Jane Austen would have loved it! Very glad you bought it - if it makes you happy then go for it!

the Storehouse looks fantastic, will interesting to see your view

Cant’t wait to hear what you think about V&A East! I’ve been reading about it and it’s on my list for either my September or December stay! Also Cartier of course! If you’ll be in town early December again let me know and we’ll connect again!

Quick update. My wifi has been down most of the day. I’m sitting in the Comcast service center as we speak using their wifi while waiting. Hopefully I’ll be up and running before very long

Dreaded/hated Comcast strikes again. Looking forward to more.

love your reports

Wi-Fi was supposed to be back up last night - but nope I’m back at the service center hoping they can fix me up - fingers crossed crossed

Update #2 won’t have Wi-Fi until Saturday at the earliest. Am in my neighborhood brew pub and if I stay any longer I’ll be schnockered.

Fingers crossed they get it fixed
🤞

The tech finally just left and I'm back up an running. Have sooooo muc email and other stuff I need to clear out then I'll try to finish up the TR this evening. In the meantime here are two photos of my F&M desk-y thing-y:



closed



interior -- the leather smells so nice

At Last! . . . Saturday Jun 14.

I knew today was Trooping the Colour but being short I knew I wouldn't have a prayer of seeing anything unless I got up early and spent all morning standing along the Mall. So instead I planed a "mall-adjacent" day focused around Trafalgar Square, hopefully see the fly past, and finishing up over off Haymarket for theatre and a late dinner. Seven scheduled 'events' all within less than half a mile. I know we always recommend one should group sites geographically but this was silly-convenient (It did end up being just under a mile when I squeezed in Fortnum & Mason)

Started off first with a booking at the National Gallery for Siena 1300-1350. (I'm a member so it free but even so needed to pre-book - the National Gallery is alone as far as I know where members need to book timed tickets) This same show was at the Met last year. What a lovely exhibition. It got 5 star reviews in all the major newspapers and I can see why. As the Guardian said -- the moment when western art came alive. Just a few short decades (centuries before the 'Renaissance') but the breadth of talent was amazing. I was familiar with some of the artists but many were entirely new to me. There is one wooden head of Christ that is the equal of Michelangelo's work.

Then I went next door to the National Portrait Gallery for Edvard Munch. What a difference -- Nothing as dramatic as The Scream Almost entirely portraits - and mostly of fairly unattractive people Some were obviously minor masterpieces, but quite a few were just plain weird.

It's now close to time for the procession back to the Palace so I figured I wander over and just soak up some of the atmosphere. I walked up the Mall a bit but the crowds were probably 12-15 deep all along the route so I retreated to just above where Horse Guards Road joins the Mall and wonder of wonders there was a gap just up from the intersection. Saw just about all of them -- they were turning away from me to head up the Mall of course but I was less than 100 feet from the apex of the curve so saw all the carriages/band/mounted guards/etc -- got clear views of the King/Queen, and Catherine - only saw the head of one of the children. plus a good view of Princess Anne and William and I assume Edward -- wasn't completely sure since they were turning away from me. Man -- William sure does sit tall in the saddle.

I didn't expect to see anything - but now I had to semi rush back because I had booked afternoon tea at Ochre in the National Gallery (it was special package offer for members for tea+Siena). It was a lovey tea -- not 'Connaught lovely' but quite nice. And for some reason they comped my glass of champagne -- I have no idea why??

Debated whether to head over to Covent Garden or what -- but decided to go the opposite direction and hit F&M. Where you've already heard about my leather letter box saga. Did some other small shopping, stopped in Boots - just about every trip I pick up a packet of Paracetamol+Codeine tablets (that's Tylenol3 to you and me) which is OTC in the UK.

Then it was on to the Harold Pinter Theatre where I had booked early access/pre-theatre drink. What can I say??!! Giant starring John Lithgow is a wonderful play. Fabulous really but draining. Especially Jessie Stone's (played by Aya Cash) long, extremely emotional/dramatic, heart wrenching speech to close Act1. The audience at first sat in silence - stunned really. Then erupted into rapturous applause and cheers. Needed the interval to recover. Second act was calmer but the play ended on a quiet note - disheartening almost evil with Roald Dahl throwing away the progress he seemed to have made personally.

Stepped out of the theatre to a still warm evening and walked maybe 3 minutes around the corner to San Carlo for dinner. Had olives to snack on then a salmon main and a nice Italian white. Was going to take the tube back but half way to Westminster station I said screw it and hailed a cab. Had some chocolate digestives and sent some texts/emails and tucked in to bed.

Next: Sunday June 15. V&A East Storehouse, Tate Modern, Southbank

Sunday June 15. A rude awakening then V&A East Storehouse, Tate Modern, Southbank

Woke up a bit after 6:00 still with no jet lag. But I must have fallen back to sleep because woke at 8:05 to the dulcet tones of a fire alarm. Luckily it went off before I went out in my jammies. After orange juice, tea, a croissant and yoghurt in the room I set out to Waterloo and caught the Jubilee line out to the end of the line at Stratford. I'm pretty familiar with the area having stayed out there when I saw ABBA Voyage -- but I didn't realize there were two entirely different bus stations -- one on either side of all the tracks -- 'Stratford' and 'Stratford City'. I wanted to catch the 388 bus and of course I went to the wrong station but a staff member sorted me out and I walked across to the other station closer to the (huge) shopping centre. It would have been walkable - its just over a mile to the large 'Here East' technology campus where the V&A Storehouse is located. But the bus goes right there. If anyone is visiting (and you MUST if you get the chance) the 388 bus from Stratford City station runs every day, or on weekdays there are frequent shuttle buses from both stations to Here East from 6:30AM to 9PM.

I'd advise visiting on a weekday and in the morning if possible -- at least until the 'newness' wears off. They limit capacity and when I arrived on Sunday about 11AM the wait to get in was about 20 minutes. But way (waaaaay) more than worth the wait. the place is absolutely amazing. I'll post some photos later. It is four stories of open space (the floors are metal mesh so no heels and if you have vertigo it might be difficult for you) Three floors are open to the public and the 'basement' has conservation work going on which you can be observed from above. Being on Sunday only 1 or 2 of the work stations were being used but I imagine on a weekday the work will be buzzing. The place is VAST and there are almost no barriers between you and the artifacts -- everything from a complete Frank Lloyd Wright office, to the 15th century ceiling from a Spanish Palace, to a trash can from the Glastonbury music festival with the names of Rod Stewart, Neil Young and the Deftones among many others. It isn't 'curated' as such a few items do have signs but most do not. Scattered around are large loose leaf binders with photos and descriptions of items on that floor so you can find the details of things that interest you -- and there will be a LOT Plus you can post an advance request for up to three item you can examine personally. There is a nice cafe inside the Storehouse so you can break your visit with drinks or a meal w/o having to go outside and queue again. This is a winner for sure -- when the new museum opens next year I can Imagine the two drawing huge crowds. It was busy enough on a Sunday morning. OH -- no large handbags/totes and they stress no cosmetics/toiletries of any sort. There are free lockers to stash your stuff.

After a couple of hours and a panini lunch I was planning on heading back to Stratford and take the Tube back into the city -- but I noticed the 388 bus continues all the way to London Bridge -- so I caught it the other direction and rode it all the way to the last stop and walked to Tate Modern from there. There were two exhibits that interested me - Anthony McCall's 'Solid Light', and Do Ho Suh's 'Walk the House'.

New York based Brit Anthony McCall uses light beams in pitch dark spaces to 'draw' images. Some rooms are all black but with mirrors reflecting the beams you walk through - some spaces are eerie and some downright disconcerting with fog and mirrors, and some are gorgeous. This is another place that vertigo or balance issue could be a problem.

Hard to describe Walk the House -- I'll just quote what the Guardian used in the intro to their review. "The Korean conceptualist invites us into all the spaces he’s lived in, re-created full-size in paper, polyester and fabric. It’s a bit like a vast portrait made in Homebase" I did find this fascinating and a lot easier on the senses than 'Solid Light' but not nearly as dramatic.

Tried to get something in the members room but at usual it was very crowded (with some of the best views in the city its no wonder) and on the glorious sunny day the terraces were closed for maintenance making it even more crowded. Did eventually find a seat and had a glass of chablis but decided to skip queueing for food.

Walked back along the Southbank -- Stopped in the Hayward Gallery but there were no tickets available for Yoshitoma Nara's exhibition. Should have booked ahead but today was sort of 'free form' and 'laid back' so didn't book anything.

Walked back stopping at Waterloo to pick up dinner / wine / dessert at M&S Food and on to the flat where I watched telly and enjoyed the AIR CONDITIONING! It has been bloody warm

Next: V&A/breakfast/Cartier/lunch/more V&A, shopping, 'cocktailing', Canaletto and Vivaldi at the Wallace Collection

Oh - some clarification re the V&A Storehouse. There are some solid floors plus some mesh plus some glass - and stairs but there are also lifts so no issues if you really really have vertigo. There are ways to avoid the possibly ‘scary’ bits. Just don’t wear heels.

I can understand the fascination with the F&M piece!! It’s beautiful. Really want to go and see the new V&A for sure. Will def look at a weekday.

beautiful writing desk piece

Next: Monday June 16 - V&A/breakfast/Cartier/lunch/more V&A, shopping, Canaletto and Vivaldi at the Wallace Collection

After another good night's sleep I had a leisurely morning and hit the V&A right at opening time. First went up to the Members Room for a light breakfast -- - fresh fruit, croissant, a mimosa and tea. Then down to the once in a lifetime Cartier exhibition. Wow -- just Wow! Overwhelming. I've seen some great shows at the V&A -- my favorite is probably still the Alexander McQueen back in 2015 -- which is when I re-joined the V&A after a break of probably 10 or 12 years. The entire run of the show being sold out the only way I could visit was to be a member. Been a member ever since. But this one is right up there -- the workmanship and designs are out of this world. hundreds of pieces covering 100+ years of the House of Cartier. Many from the Cartier collection, plus many from celebrities including Jackie Kennedy, the Duchess of Devonshire, Doris Duke, Barbara Hutton, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, the Royal family, several maharajahs, and many anonymous loans. But the famous owners are probably the least important aspect of the exhibition. Some of the necklaces have more than a thousand stones - not just diamonds but every sort of gemstone one can imagine plus jade, enamels, etc. And sooooo many tiaras! I spent two hours and if my feet weren't begging for mercy could have spent longer. The hardback catalog weighs more than my rollaboard -- only a slight exaggeration. I probably could have bought it on site but then I'd have to check my suitcase so I ordered it from home - with the member's discount it cost £30 . . . plus £30 bleedin' shipping! It arrived about 4 days later.

Went back up to the Members Lounge - I have a really early dinner booking and just wanted something light for lunch so ordered olives and a glass of bubbly then carrot ginger soup while reviewing all the photos I'd taken. Really needn't have bothered because the catalogue is so comprehensive. Bought a couple of small presents in the gift shop -- the V&A shop is dangerous Afterwards I spent maybe another 90 minutes in the V&A - but not in the Jewelry gallery Mostly in sculpture and stained glass.

Its now 3 or 3:30-ish and my dinner booking is 5PM so I head out - deciding to kill some time walking across the park and up Oxford Street to Selfridges. It was a beautiful day and and little cooler and the walk was lovely. Probably took me 45 minutes so I only had a short time in Selfridges -- bought a couple of small cosmetics things that are hard to find back home.

I'm going to a 6:30 Vivaldi concert / Canaletto reception at the Wallace Collection so originally had figured I'd just eat something at one of the MANY restaurants in Selfridges. But the very day I booked the concert the Times had published Giles Coren's review of the new Josephine Bistro in Blandford Street basically around the corner -- about a 5 minute walk from the Wallace. The is the 'little sister' of Claude Bosi's Josephine Bouchon in Chelsea. Coren loved the place - both the food and service giving it a 9 out of 10. So that was settled -- 5PM dinner at Josephine and it was great. Lovely room with lots of photos and artefacts (a very French vibe) linen table cloths and the service was top notch. Had a wonderful white asparagusstarter, Mussels for the main and a cold Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. Yuuuummmmy

Then a short walk around to the Wallace Collection -- I'd guess there were about 200 in attendance - the room was quite full. Vivaldi's Four Seasons plus other numbers -- the Orion Orchestra and violin soloist Danny Koo. This is part of the Marylebone Music Festival and it was a terrific venue. Afterwards we were served champagne and small canapés (I sure hadn't needed dessert at Josephine) and had free run of the gallery

Back to the Marlin - tidied up a bit and started packing, then finished up the last of the fruit and biscuits watching the late news. Oh joy (!) its gong to be sweltering tomorrow!

Next: Tues and Wed: Rubbing shoulders with all the toffs headed to Ascot (top hats, fancy dresses and all), train to Winchester, great pub with rooms, Wolvesey Castle, Winchester Cathedral, 8 College Street.