I left Miami (very difficult, very large airport) bound for Sevilla on Saturday 7 March. Flight on Iberia (business class) was fine and I even managed a few hours of sleep.
For the first time I ordered fish (lubina) for my dinner and it was surprisingly edible, served with pureed butternut squash.

We arrived early in Madrid (MAD) airport, and I had four hours to spend in the lounge before connecting to Sevilla (SVQ). Nice to be able not to worry about making a connection.
The experience at the Madrid airport--both the lounge and the walk to the gate) was so far superior, with none of the worry that I had in Miami.

I do not like the Miami airport!. I had spent the waiting time in MIA's AMEX lounge where seating was scarce and the food selection was much diminished from last year. I do not recommend going the extra distance needed to reach the Centurion Lounge if you depart from Miami...not worth the long walk with TWO train rides to get to the gate. Disappointing. (Coincidentally, I sat on the plane near a woman who works for Amex Platinum and she told me that she had had many, many complaints about that same Miami airport Centurion Amex Lounge)

But.....I was on my way to Spain,so all this is just tiny detail.

Landed a half an hour early in Madrid, and also landed early, about 12 noon, in Sevilla. I took a taxi from the Sevilla airport (no waiting time-- exist the terminal and the taxi ranks right outside; white taxis) to my hotel, PALACIO DON RAMON. Taxi is fixed price, about 28 euro-plus change (this was a Sunday). Paid with credit card, as I always do in Spanish taxis. Did not tip.

The hotel is near perfect for me. It's a renovation of an old palace with about 15 rooms, if that, arranged around an inner, tiled courtyard replace with greenery...... belonging to the KAIZEN GROUP and opened in 2023.

I've stayed at the KAIZEN property in Jerez, HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA, and will do so again at the end of this trip. If you care to splurge in Sevilla, this is the place. Great location a block from El Corte Ingles, a few minutes walk to Las Setas and to Canabota restaurant and bar, down the street from an ice cream shop that the front desk person lauds as among the best in the city (Bolas..will check this out). The location is much better than Sevillas's grade dame, ALFONSO XIII, which now flies the Marriott flag.

I imagine there are about 15 rooms here, each one following one of three styles: Modern, Arabic, Mozarabic. If you are a style fanatic, this is your place...every little detail from the reading lights to the inset tile floors to the heated towel rack.....you've got all the conveniences in a gorgeous envelope. the butter at the breakfast table has been left out long enough to soften. Little details!

Here are a few photos off the hotel; as you can imagine, it is at the top of the Sevilla price range but so far it's been worth it for me. My only slight disappointment was not to have more local products at breakfast (included with my rate). Why offer brie instead of payoyo cheese???? But that's such a tiny nitpick that I should feel ashamed!! Everyone here is super welcoming, not surprising that all staff that I've encountered cone from elsewhere, with exception of one older waiter at breakfast. Housekeeper hails from Hondura, bell "boy" from Foggia, Puglia (we had fun speaking about Gargano.). Front desk woman from Buenos Aires, etc.....Lots of fun to chat with them all!!

To summarize, although I've spent only one night here, so far I enthusiastically recommend for a splurge hotel in Sevilla and, if you head for Jerez, equal enthusiasm for their sister hotel, HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA, which I will spend my last night in Spain before flying back to the US later this month. (Kaizen also has a hotel in El Rocio, Huelva, Andalucia)





Gorgeous floors in public areas..stone inset into cement..must find out details

Stone and brick set into cement (?). The first thing that struck me as I entered the hotel for the first time.

Lobby with reception desk at far left

Breakfast, taken in the Orange Patio; elect from the menu and choices are brought to your table...lovely setting and impeccable service.



A big impediment for me is THE WEATHER!! Much of Spain is being hit by heavy rains and flooding. There were tornados last night in Sevilla province. So walking around is less pleasant than in the past. Weather changes..one minute there is a bit of sun and it's very warm..just cotton shirt weather. In the proverbial blink of an eye, heavy rains!
I hate carrying an umbrella, but I needed one for a few minutes of every hour I spent wandering around this morning. There have been major highways cut, near Ronda/Malaga, and people killed by mudslides and rushing rivers...... And the forecast is for more of the same for at least the next week.

But I'm here in Sevilla! And it's not so unpleasant relaxing in my room and eating....and posting this!!

My first dinner in Sevilla, last night, was at the superb BARRA BAJA. II was fortunate to be able to dine with Shawn Hennessy, who writes the premier food blog about Sevilla, in English. She is THE authority about where to dine in this city, which has been her home for more than twenty years.

We began with cava at a lovely bar across from y hotel, before moving to bar seats at BARRA BAJA, down the street. I LOVED this restaurant!!!! We were served by the Owner/Chef, Rafa Lian, who runs tha restaurant with his partner, Patri Molaner who was also much in evidence during our dinner. (Both worked with Super Chef Dani Garcia in his multi-starred Mucihlin eatery in Marbella) and their skills reflect their training.

This is a small restaurant, with eight seats along the bar, which offer great views of the food preparation and a chance to talk with the chef. There are a few tables in the small dining room but I liked sitting at the bar.

We had a booking for 8:30 and were the second party seated. it was not until abut 10pm that the place began to fill (Sunday night; good to keep in mind on a day when many place re closed for dinner). Definitely book ahead; you an do this on their website:

https://barrabajarestaurante.com

More details after I rest my fingers!!!

Wow! I am along for this ride!

Yahoo - Eks is back on the road! Looking forward to following your adventures.

My first dinner in Sevilla, at the wonderful restaurant BARRA BAJA, where I was joined by erudite and charming Shawn Hennessey, of who has lived in Seville for thirty years (not the twenty that I wrote, earlier). I could not have hoped for better company, and we just had a LOT of fun together:

https://shawnhennessey.substack.com/...utm_medium=web


https://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/barra-baja/


Dinner at BARRA BAJA--highly recommended!


There are eight seats along the bar and this is the best place to sit, so you can watch the chefs work their magic. Book online and ask for bar seating; see my white Costco rain jacket draped over the back of my chair

Spectacular Gillardeau oysters--each of us had one with sherry/butter sauce and the other, my favorite, with a cold sauce of cucumber and dill...I will be ordering more oysters from now on....

Almejas (clams) in a sherry butter sauce...excellent1

One of the best fish dishes I've had recently--these are chunks of monkfish tail with terrifically fresh sautéed spinach...

Owner/Chef Rafa (who owns BARRA BAJA with his partner, Patri,) putting the finishing touches on a brulled, flattened leek; I have this on my list for next time.... Rafa was most welcoming and happy to discuss details of the dishes he prepared in front of us.



The total bill for two of us: 96 euro. We shared the dishes and consumed a total of SIX glasses of cava and sherry. A memorable evening, both for the food and the company!


​​​​​​​https://barrabajarestaurante.com

My second dinner in Sevilla took place at AZOTEA, one of my favorite restaurants in Spain. I first dined there in 2012 and have returned quite a few times since then, even as they changed locations. It's just a great place...superb food and very friendly service. Dinners during the week are served across the street from the main restaurant, at AZOTEA LA TIENDA, but the cooked food is brought across the narrow street from the kitchen of the main restaurant.

The one disappointing dish were the navajas, the razor clams, with little pale green beans; I ordered a half-portion (media racion) but the clams were overcooked and on the tough side. No matter here; as soon as I pointed this out to my wonderful long-time Azotea waiter, Diego (I love you, you handsome guy!!). he agreed with me and immediately took this dish off my bill, without me asking. My next two dishes were excellent!!! A trio of large red prawns from Andalucia, served head on so I could get every last morsel of the juice out of the shells (why, oh, why do restaurants in the US serve shrimp without the heads????? Well, we know why but will not go there right now......I think it's a culinary sin but I am writing this at the risk of being made fun of....)

My next dish was one I've had before, at the one-year-old AZOTEA location in the beach town of EL PALMAR DE VEJER; I'm heading to this area at the end of this week but the el Palmar location does not open until early April so I'll miss it this year..... This dish is a version of the Tunisian pastry, Brik, made with [phyllo dough. In Tunisia I've had it stuffed with eggs and harissa. At AZOTEA the Brik is stuffed with a creamy white cheese and chunks of shrimp...and covered with a wonderful sauce made from pureed red peppers and maybe a tiny touch of harissa. I love this dish and could have it every day for breakfast. Every single day!!!! Or for dinner!! There is no person in the world who would not like this, I don't think.


With one glass of palo cortado (wine from Jerez--sherry to English speakers) my bill totaled 31 euro. That's about 33 US dollars.



Here are photos of my dishes, and the exterior of the restaurant, on a very rainy night in March:


[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_3355_9041a497ea17685ffaf584e0968c515ff9133b7c. jpeg
Chalkboard listing daily specials; most staff speak perfect English

Seating available along the bar, as well as at high top tables.

Bread, olives and the menu, which is augmented by the daily specials

My less-than-successful razor clams, which were eliminated from my bill even though I had eaten half of this "half order."

Wonderful, meaty red prawns from Andalucia

Brik pastry filled with creamy white cheese and hefty chunks of prawns...you need to call them for reservations for most dates; see their website for details--https://laazoteasevilla.com/es_es/

Exterior of AZOTEA TIENDA on this rainy night in March



I'll take a moment to mention the weather which seems to be very unusual for this time of year. This week and next are predicted to be very rainy, with flooding rivers, including the Guadalquivir which slices through the city of Sevilla. It's been raining hard one minute and sunny the next, but the predominant weather is cloudy and drizzly, interspersed with hard rain. BUT it's not cold so does not really impact anything except perhaps for photographers. As I've mentioned so many times, I bring along my trusty white rain jacker purchased at Costco for about $12. and it looks fine and has a hood which eliminates the need to carry a clumsy umbrella (The hotel, of course, offers these for guests but then you only have one hand to browse in markets or shops or to take photos on your phone....)

This afternoon I went to an exceptionally great 5pm flamenco show at the MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO. It was fantastic and I arrived early; not early enough to snag a front row center seat but early enough to have a front row side seat. I was awed. No photos allowed, but I snuck two before and at the end of the show:




MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO in Sevilla...fantstic!! The 29 euro ticket includes entrance to the flamenco museum, which I will visit on another day. Entrance to the show alone coasts a few euro less.

There is a bar where patrons can buy wine or Tinto de Verano; my red wine cost 4 euro

This man took my breath away....the entire show was thrilling!!! The best flamenco I've ever seen,a though I've not seen much....we need AMSDON and KIMHE here to comment..where are you both?? And Maribel!!!

Hi eks,
I totally agree regarding your flamenco venue.
As I postetd on HO just recently and perhaps here, the 3 intimate flamenco, pure choices for me (no tasting menus, cocktails, drinks/tapas with minor exceptons) are
1. Casa de la Memoria (which if memory serves you've also visited)
2. Museo del Arte Flamenco brought to the city by great, legendary Cristina Hoyos
3. Tablao Alvarez Quintero
No drinks during the performance, no tapas, no meal, just pure, inadulterated flamenco, which is what is all about.

Kimhe is no longer posting but I hope that amsdon see this and tells you more about the new venue at Las Setas, where I have not been

And having toured it last year, I felt that the Hotel Palacio Don Ramón would be perfect for you, with the perfect location, having recommended Spain hotels that you like very much over these many years ( I do know your taste!!). And the owner of the Kaizen group has another in Triana in the planning stages, so stay tuned..

Maribell you certainly do know my taste! This hotel is perfect! Small, elegant without being formal if that makes sense. The design is astonishingly beautiful, from the floors to the ceilings (the ceiling in my room, #10, has moldings, and closet doors reminiscent of ornamental plaster; similar to a couple of these:

https://www.shelterness.com/25-cool-...nd-trim-ideas/

The upholstery is incredibly detailed, with luscious fabrics on chairs and sofas scattered throughout the public areas. I must take a photo later.
My room is not very large but it's sumptuous in every detail. At the Maria Luisa in Jerez, guests take home their mascot, a little furry bear named Matteo. Here, my companion is the adorable silvery burro, Platero, whose name derives from the famous poetic children's book, Platero y Yo.

Later today I am going on a search for this cheese, which I think you recommended to me: It's a GOAT cheese from Malaga province that won a very important cheese award a couple of years ago and apparently sells out as fast as it can be stocked: OLAVIDIA. I hope they have this at ECI, which is just a few steps from the hotel.

https://www.quesosybesos.es/olavidia/



As you remember, I did attend the flamenco show at LA CASA DE LA MEMORIA last time I was here. I think the show at MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO was even better! The audience was enraptured. Even the big group of students from Bologna who were sitting behind me managed to quiet down during the show. They sell a couple of wines at the bar in an adjacent room but people bought their drinks beforehand and brought them back to their seats so there was no disruption during the program. I would say that this is an absolute must for any tourist visiting Sevilla. I arrived about 40 minutes before the 5pm starting time (I think they put on three shows daily) and there were already about a dozen people waiting on line. But I was rewarded with a front row seat (on the side of the stage) so I could see the footwork, which was dazzling.

Here is the website for tickets, and information; there is a flamenco museum in the building. I bought a ticket that allows me to visit the museum anytime during my stay here.

https://museodelbaileflamenco.com. (I attended the Puro Flamenco show)


Dinner last night was in the bar room, where I was given a small high-top table at the window right next to the long bar, of BARRA DE INCHAUSTI. (One solete in the Repsol guide) Although I had booked a table the adjacent, slightly more formal, restaurant, Shawn advised me to switch to the bar, instead and I was happy I was able to do so. I arrived on the dot of 8:30pm while the doors were still closed, so I was the first person to enter when the sign was flipped from "cerrado" to "abierto." The airy, white and blue room filled up quickly and I think I was the only non-local person, or at least the only tourist, in the place. Reservations can only be made by phone, so the hotel booked the table for me while I was still in the US.

I hadn't realized that the bad weather would affect local menus. As Shawn says on her website, the Inchausti brothers (three of them work the restaurant) have their own fish market on the coast in Cadiz province. This cuts out the middle man but also means that their kitchen is susceptible to weather that affects the fish supply. Unfortunately, this factor was much in evidence during my dinner here. I arrived with a short list of about five dishes that I wanted to try; These included fried ortiguillas (sea anemone) a signature dish of coastal Caiz that I fell in love with during my stay in Cadiz city a few years ago and that's no so common even as close as Sevilla; sopa de galera (mantis shrimp), another mainstay of the Gaditano table (a Gaditano is a person from Cadiz--Cadiz-ian (??); clams; and a couple of other items. None of these were available, due to the poor sea conditions this week.

But I needn't have worried; I ended up ordering only two dishes but both were excellent: Tortillita de camarones, the crispy fritters studded with little pieces of shrimp, another emblematic Gaditano dish and probably the most famous dish of that province. This was perfect!

Next: My kind and patient older waiter pointed me to the cod in a sobrehusa sauce, a name that was new to me. I read about its later and it seems that the recipe varies greatly from place to place and probably from kitchen to kitchen; the sobrehusa here was a golden yellow, velvety blanket for the large piece of perfectly cooked cod; the fish just melted in my mouth. I've never been a cod fan but that is changing. Fast. This was absolutely delicious, worth returning to the restaurant to repeat!! With a glass of sherry (sherries are known in Andalusia as "vinos generosos," or generous wines; I imagine the term refers to the fact that they are fortified.), and a 1.80 charge for bread and the little picos that appear on almost every table in this region, my bill totaled 11.50 euro:

3.50. copa de generoso
3.00. tortillita de camarón
3.20 sobrehusa
1.80 pan/picos

Total charge: 11.50

I've been in the habit of not tipping in restaurants in Spain, with the exception of the very few, very high-end places I go to once in a great while. But Shawn does tip so I've begun to follow her lead; I left a tip of 1.50 euro on the plate, for the waiter.

BARRA DE INCHAUSTI, Sevilla.
Excellent; more traditional than both BARRA BAJA and AZOTEA. A perfect place to sample very regional cooking, especially things from the sea. Very warm, welcoming and professional service. Not sure if English is spoken here (no English menu) but that should not dissuade the mono-lingual from visiting.

https://www.instagram.com/labarradeinchausti/?hl=en




Menu--I thought I had seen one online but cannot find it now; Inchausti has no website, only Facebook and Instagram pages

Tortillita of shrimp

Close-up--look how lacy and delicate. and not greasy!

Cod in a delicious sobrehusa sauce, with excellent potato, sliced

Closeup of the cod; I mopped up all the sauce with bread

Interior of bar area, taken from my table next to the window; this area was full by the time I left about 10pm. Next stop: Ice cream at MITO, a few steps away!!




I turned left upon leaving INCHAUSTI, and walked the few steps to one of the Sevilla outposts of MITO, a very-well-regarded ice cream shop (heladeria). One immediate signal that this would be a good product was the fact that the ice cream was not whipped into those towering, frothy piles that you see at lesser places. No screaming florescent colors here, either. As in the great gelaterias of Italy, the product is kept in metal containers topped with metal lids, so you cannot see the entire display--customers ask for one, or more, of the flavors listed on the wall, the lid is lifted, and your serving is stopped into a cup (in my case) or a cone. I did not hesitate one second after I spied "salted caramel" on the list!!! Yes, incredibly creamy and delicious. I asked for the smallest portion and received a very generously sized serving; it was enough for two people with skimpy appetites. I noticed that the helado was very slow to melt..I think this has to do with the butterfat content and is a quality of top-tier ice cream.

The price was 3.50 which I think is very little for such a quality helado; is my memory faltering, or did I not pay double that, even in Sicily, at the top tier gelaterias?
If any of you have traveled in Italy, do you remember the price of good gelato?? Could I have paid up to 7 euro there for a small-ish cup??

Anyway, after-dinner helado is going to be a habit while I'm here in Sevilla. I'm not sure I can find any nighttime ice cream in my next stop, near Vejer, unless I take the somewhat daunting after-dark drive up to the town itself. Do I dare buy a large container and ask the hotel to store in their kitchen freezer???

Maribel, would you recommend any supermarket ice cream brands? Or do you know of anyplace near my hotel outside Vejer where I could buy great helado?

It's dreary and rainy again today so it's a little hard to awaken the drive to go forth and wander, having to tear myself away from this cozy lair. I've been to Sevilla a number of times so I do not have any "essential" sights on my agenda, except the Museo de Bellas Artes, which I've visited a few times; its a superb collection and not too far a walk from the hotel. (One thing that is pretty new to me is the need to buy tickets in advance to the major attractions, so you do have to plan your day to the minute if you are headed for the Catedral, Giralda, etc etc. It's such a joy for me to just wander around aimlessly, admire the architecture and people-watch.

I've gotten lost so many times already in the three days I've been here but when that happens, I just stop someone on the street and ask directions..as is the norm here, every single person has been exceedingly helpful, with two people even walking a block out of their way to guide me...... Paradise!

it's now 1pm and all Ive accomplished so far today is to eat breakfast in the "orange" courtyard, and write this chapter of my food thread here. The word lazy does not even come close to describing me on this vacation! I've been waking at 10am, only that early because the front desk calls me at that hour, so I do not miss breakfast, which runs until 11 or 11:30, depending on who you ask. But I've got plenty of steam left over after dark and have not gone to sleep before 2am on any day since arriving. I guess I can blame it on jet lag, but does that not work the OTHER way..rising too early and conking out right after dinner???

Tonight will be dinner at AUGURIO.

Here is the site for the MITO ice cream shops; they call it a Gelateria; there are four locations in Sevilla and they have a nod from the Repsol guide, the principal gastronomic reference in Spain:

https://gelateriamito.com/en/

And this is BOLAS, also with several locations in the city and also with a Repsol recommendation; there's one very close to me on C/Orfila.

When a craving struck at 10pm on my day of arrival, this past Sunday, I found them shut tight; yesterday, a server told me that they were the victim on an online scam that caused them to deviate from their posted hours of operation (!). I might get the details when I stop by, hopefully tonight, for my first taste.



https://www.heladeriasbolas.com

I'm discovering that it's much more fun to read about a city when my own visit is imminent. Glad the iffy weather is not ruling out ice cream. Though what weather is not good for ice cream, now that I think about it.

Is it possible at this point for you to add a "Spain" tag to this thread, or does a mod have to do it?

Hellie, how do I add the tag? I'd love to if you or someone else can guide me.
Weather is not great, but its not at all cold; I went out today (shopping spree at basement supermarket of El Corte Ingles) with only a linen shirt and a rain jacket and I could have left the rain jacket back at the hotel. So far I've not seen any rain today.

Look:



That's the little burro, Platero, who lives at the hotel. (Well, he lives here now but once I get his pet-port in order he will be re-locating!!).

I also bought a nice-sized chunk of cabrales cheese from Asturias to have for snacks in my room. (I don't go out for lunch much).

The onion jam was less than 3 euro; I use this at home for little toasts, with sliced pears and smoked mozzarella on good bread--put in the oven to melt the cheese, a nice dinner with a salad. I think I paid about 10$US at Whole Foods for a different (Calabrian) type in a tiny jar.....look at me, shopping for supermarket bargains to bring home. I even bought some purple garlic! And the Navarra asparagus was half-price for the second can!! Good for salads back home!! I think I am a little eccentric.




I want to mention that I have not felt any anti-tourist sentiment here. I did not expect that I would, since I never experienced this in any country, ever. But I see many people asking about this on other travel forums. I've not seen any graffiti telling tourists to stay home...nothing like that. At all. Everyone I've met has been exceedingly kind and helpful. I know it makes a difference in the fact that I speak Spanish fairly well, but still....be polite and I cannot imagine anyone would have problems, at least in the places I've visited.

I always like to speak with any local person who has time for me. So I've had a few discussions with the housekeeper, a Honduran who has lived in Sevilla for ten years. She is the ONLY person who has alluded to our current political scene, and only then, she did it in a very light manner. I'm not sure that many tourists understand how many immigrants live in Spain. I've encountered so many people from Argentina, Cuba (I think half of the taxi drivers in Lanzarote are Cuban, or so it seemed last May) and Central American countries in my hotels and I love talking to them....I think I wrote about the person who cleaned my room in Cuenca last December..she is from Honduras, re-located to Cuenca and now has a daughter graduating from medical school....this was a lovely tale.

Anyway, just a small detour from the main topic: food and lots of miscellany. Do not look here if you want to read about the main attractions in Seville because I will not be visiting any (except for, possibly, the Museo de Bellas Artes). You cannot wander into the main "sights" nowadays; you need to book ahead for your time slot.

That little guy is adorable. And as for shopping for supermarket things to bring home, that's a very fun thing to do, especially when the haul is all arrayed at home. I remember after unpacking from one trip that ended in Brussels, I wanted to just roll around on the bed with all the chocolate boxes and bottles of beer. I did manage to restrain myself.

In a thread I was reading yesterday, someone advised a poster to click the little warning symbol at the bottom of a post, the exclamation point within a triangle, to summon a mod. I was a bit hesitant to try, since it says "report this post" or something similar, but I just tried it on one of my own threads, and all that happens is that it opens a little message box addressed to a mod.

Great..I did just what you wrote; will see what happens. They are usually good at responding.

I've now realized that I went to the wrong area of El Corte Ingles; I went to the normal supermarket in the basement where I should have gone to the rooftop "gourmet" area.
Tomorrow is another day!!

We had our American International School class reunion dinner at Azotea about 12 years ago.
Thanks for waking up a happy memory.
I do remember those prawns!

CDNYUL'. You are so welcome....I do love Azotea!!



I was not kidding when I wrote that this thread would have very little info for the first-time traveler to Sevilla, or for anyone focused on seeing the myriad sights that the city offers.
I spent my time eating and wandering. I'm going to wrap here, briefly, because I left the city this morning, bound for La Janda, where I will stray for two weeks in a small hotel in the countryside outside Vejer. de la Frontera. I learned today that there is an excellent school for learning Spanish in Vejer and that is where the British owner of my hotel became fluent in the language.

https://nightingaletrails.com/habita...ands/la-janda/


SEVILLA WRAP UP;


I was the recipient of quite a few glasses of various sherries from people at my hotel. This had a small effect on my system and by my fourth night in Sevilla, my appetite was not what it was when I arrived here. Taking my cue from Maribel, and from Shawn of SEVILLA TAPAS, I had booked at the tiny eatery, AUGURIO. This is a gem, run by a pair of women.--Carmen and Lorena--who extended a very warm welcome, indeed, to this drenched traveler from across the Atlantic. I had a lovely walk from my hotel, stopping at RATATOUILLE CHEESECAKE to admire the selection and to chat with the male staff member. I promised myself I would return but this was not to be. Nor war further tasting of the helados; besides AMORINO, Sevilla seems to have several ice cream place offering top quality, I wrote about MITO and their salted caramel (!!) but never did have the time to stop by at BOLAS when their doors were open. A shame, since they are but a block from the DON RAMON.


I had no hunger when I arrived at AUGURIO, so cannot offer any meaningful chatter about the restaurant except to say I already have it on my list for next year. The place sits about 24 diners in a sleek, simple but attractive one-room space. Determined to appreciate anchovies, I began with a
Cantabrian beauty atop a toast smeared with butter compounded with blue cheese. I tried....I did try. It was good but I still cannot say that I am an anchovy aficionado. But I am even more determined to learn more by tasting.....

Carmen recommended that I continue with grilled hearts of gem lettuce all melty with parmesan....this was lovely and I cleaned my plate. but by then I could not eat any more so I missed what is probably the best part of their menu, as well and their desserts. AUGURIO is a tiny spot; only one other table was occupied on this rainy Wednesday night and, again, I have it on my list for next year when I hope to return...



AUGURIO exterior...looks like a great neighborhood to stay in an apartment, or a hotel..

I was feeling so poorly that I managed only one pic of the food; this is their acclaimed anchovy with blue cheese butter. I followed by grilled hearts of lettuce with parmesan cheese and crispy bread crumb fried in bacon fat (!!!).....I drank only water that night..went straight back "home" with not even a cup of ice cream from the nearby outpost of MITO!! Total bill: 11.40euro

I came away with regret that I could not mange to sample more dishes, and also with this saying, imparted by Carmen.

Maribel, I need you here because I cannot remember the prompt for this, which came during our discussion of the very rainy and dreary weather, which was so unexpected by yours truly!!


"Hasta el 40 de Mayo, No te quites el sayo!"



The following afternoon, I took the terrific sherry tasting tour led by Shawn Hennessy, of SEVILLE TAPAS; not only did I learn so much about the wines of the "sherry triangle," now expanded to include a few other production areas, but Shawn had selected what must be THE typical, atmospheric SEvillana bar, HERMANOS DE E. MORALES, a landmark now celebrating its 175th year of operation by the subsequent generations of the Morales family. I knew that the wines would be top notch, but I never expected such fabulous food!!!! Highly recommend Shawn's tours (I was joined only be two other persons--both cheesemakers from Lancastershire) and the bar itself, which becomes easier navigate under the helm of a local person such as Shawn.

This bar was jam-packed by a few minutes after the 12:30pm opening time....a mix of tourists and locals and so quintessential Sevillana---the food, the people, the staff....ifi you have time to visit one place in Sevilla, you might consider this one. It's on the other extreme from the restaurants I had dined at earlier in the week--traditonal Andalusia recipes, cooked with care by the current owner, Reyes Morales, in her upstairs kitchen. For a minute, you might imagine your Sevillana grandma toiling one flight above and bringing down the food, one dish by one dish, each one better than the last, or so it seems to me yesterday afternoon. Essential!!!


​​​​​​​This is their menu; do not worry about prices as they are all extremely reasonable. The location is but a block from the Cathedral: Prepare to wait if you want a table, but the crowd flows in and out so just stick it out and I can alsmot promise a reward.


​​​​​​​https://www.casamoralessevilla.es/Nuestra-Cocina/




https://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/tapas-tours/sherry/

Yes, that's the perfect expression for what we're experiencing now. Who would have thought??? La instabilidad de la primervera.
https://www.elmundo.es/como/2024/06/...56b8b458d.html

We're hosting a barbecue tomorrow and it's going to be soooooo cold! No me voy a quitar el sayo. We´ll either be forced inside or wrap up in blankets on the porch.

ekscrunchy,
File this list away for your next Sevilla trip. More heladerías!
https://www.abc.es/gurme/sevilla/gui...10002913&jb=10

Maribel, I adore you!!

You know where I am lounging on the bed, writing this!!! Looking out at the green, so green, hills near Vejer from my room!!!! Oh, to be back here!!

The tour with Shawn was excellent!

Back story: My partner of (dare I reveal this--more than 25 years!) owned a small, unpretentious wine store in East Midtown, Manhattan, a few blocks north of the UN.

It was a small shop, patronized by the who's who (way, way back then) of the neighborhood--a certain reclusive Scandinavian actress, an often tipsy Southern author famed for his "true crime" novel, a CBS anchor with an unforgettable voice....on and on..... But, the selection of "vinos generosos" was limited to a few bottles of Harveys Bristol Cream, a Tio Pepe or two, and I think that was that.... NO ONE, and mind you, these were well-traveled patrons of no little spending cash, no one knew anything about sherry.

When I look back on those years, I wonder why and I imagine it was lack of advertising, or was sherry equated with Grandma with her dusty bottle of Bristol Cream?
We discussed all of that, and so much more, with Shawn (she is an accredited "sherry educator" who has passed the notoriously difficult exam to acquire her license and it was so interesting to hear the couple from rural UK (reputedly esteemed cheesemakers) tell us that the only sherry they knew was Bristol Cream... Shawn explained that the reason that brand has a poor reputation was that sherry, like other wines, cannot be stashed in the cupboard for years.....it's wine, after all!!! But many people treat it like whisky, to be brought out only on special occasions, and then stored under poor conditions which degrade the wine.

The tasting was wonderful....and the venue (!!) ..both were a highlight of my all-too-short stay on Sevilla..


I have already inquired about visiting in 2026 for the first two days of Semana Santa--Sunday and Monday when the hotel has viewing from their roof and from a spot in front..more on that later.....the people at the hotel thought I would get a good introduction to the festivities, without being overwhelmed, if I visited during the first two days of the processions...(??)


This morning I booked a driver (arranged and paid for by the hotel) to take me from HOTEL PALACIO DON RAMON to the airport of Jerez. We left just before noon.

(I will mention here that the same hotel group, the esteemed KAIZEN GROUP, will open a new hotel in Triana, on Calle Betis, next year)

What a pleasure--tiny Jerez airport, completing the paperwork for the SIXT rental car took under five minutes, and I was on my way, bound for my hotel outside Vejer via Cadiz and Chiclana (as opposed to the route via Medina Sidonia) I took all insurances to be safe and secure, and paid upon collecting the car, with GPS included, a small Audi automatic.

Sixt does not ask for the IDP; a US driver's license is enough to rent, although the IDP is helpful in case of a stop by police or in case of accident. (I had one in hand but was not asked to show it at the counter). I had to consent to a block on my credit card for the time of the rental, which amounted to about 2000 euro. (Helpful to ask for an increased credit limit if that's possible with your personal card; I use CITi Costco in Europe, which has no exchange fee)

Despite my anxiety about driving, the trip was easy, roads are in top condition, and well before 3pm I was met with lots of hugging and joyful exclamations by the staff members,, and from my beloved SOMBRA, my midnight black feline friend of 18-years-plus who managed a purr and who immediately, and much more emphatically, responded to the offering of a few treats purchased at my local D'Agostino!! (Wait until she sees the toys I've brought along, if I can figure out how to charge and work these floppy fishes!!)


Here are a few photos from my sherry tasting with Shawn Hennessy at Casa Morales, near the Cathedral of Sevilla:



FANTASTIC cod topped with a dab of the salmorejo typical of Cordoba....

Jamon Iberico, Ibgerian ham (Shawn explained the varieties of this delicacy and how it pairs so well with sherries; we had the opportunity to taste with different styles of sherry)

The atmospheric back room (enter by the side street) of Casa Morales....a trio of regulars sipping vino Tinto; some of th many menu offerings written on the barrels behind them.....a vast menu here!!

Delectable meatballs made from chicken...with good potatoes in lovely gravy.....

Artichoke hearts with jamon Iberico and finely chopped parsley.....

An ideal pairing with a Pedro Jimenez sherry: Foie gras with a red pepper jam and toast points....among the many, many \"must orders" at Casa Morales, Sevilla

Facade of E. Morales; there is this main entrance and one on the side street, to the right when you face the facade


Another notable dish which I forgot to photograph, was the carrillada, pork cheeks, braised to soft perfection in red wine.....I imagine that most any diet on their long menu would be good and I think this is a top spot for a snack or full meal. Undoubtedly this is only one of many in Sevilla but I can report only on my excellent experience here.

For someone running--ambling, really--at my very slow pace, five nights is a scant amount of time to devote to this glorious of Andalusian cities.

Hey Eks, congratulations on another successful and tasty trip. Those oysters were intriguing. I always tease fishermen vendors that they ought to consider a sign: 'OYSTERS: MORE ZINC FOR YOUR DINK!'
And gracias for including that interesting demographic summary--who knew so many immigrants lived in Spain?
*FYI 'world music' theme soon come next Monday in Song of the Week.

I am done. the tasty trip

eks,
Shawn really had a great time with you, BTW!! I'm so glad you could join her sherry tasting at Hijos de Morales, which is our favorite Sevilla time warp. We go there every night for our "penúltima". Yes, the little KAIZEN group grows, this time in Triana, but I think the Casa Palacio Don Ramón has a far better, actually perfect location.

We actually got caught in a Semana Santa "bulla" there (look that up!) across the street, while awaiting a procession. The first few days are best for Semana Santa beginners, as it's slightly less overwhelming. The Thursday evening to Friday morning Madrugá is for professionals!. Completely and totally exhausting, albeit thrilling.

We're doing the very solemn Semana Santa in Old Castile this year--processions actually begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday (Viernes de Dolores)--- León, Zamora, Valladolid, ending in Avila on Easter Sunday, but plan on going back to Sevilla & Jerez in 2026.

zebec,
There are now 50,623 and counting US citizens living in Spain--hard to believe. I´m now one of these immigrants and live in a Madrid suburb chock filled with immigrants (but just 47 of us from the US).

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming, Ekscrunchy and adventures in La Janda!