Right now we are watching CNN and getting ready to leave for dinner, in our Catania hotel, the lovely PALAZZO MARLETTA, where we stayed last year and will return again next week. I have an indelible view off the Duomo and the Piazza del Duomo from our tiny terrace.

We left JFK on 28 August bound for Munich and then on to Catania--both flights on Lufthansa, which proved to be a great choice, as service was excellent and cabin staff were friendly, and I had a great seat mate who works for United and was off to see the Adele concert in Munich. He told me that our Airbus, along with 747, were his favorite two aircraft to fly.

All great...I never got so many chocolates on an airplane flight as I did last night!!!

Flight from NYC to Munich was late and had very tight connection to Catania.

You know what comes next and it was not our luggage!!!!
Second time in 6 months that my luggage has been misplaced (will not use the "L" word!!)

Taxis from Catania airport to Centro cita cost ABOUT 22 euro plus baggage fees; we chose to use the hotel driver but that cost 40 euro...will not do that again.

Spent about an hour waiting for luggage to arrive, than another 45 minutes at the lost baggage area. Sicilians are so much fun that we actually had a good time chatting about the various options for getting back our luggage. Decided to return to airport tomorrow morning since we have to go there anyway to pick up our car at SIXT.

BIG MAJOR PROBLEM that I am very anxious about:

I forgot to take my New York drivers license!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But I do have my IDP. Rental is in. my name and I will be principal driver. Partner has his license but I hope they rent the car to ME so I can drive....even without the NYC license!!! After all, it is supposed to be a translation of your US license, right? Has photo and all details..

Not only that, have forgotten converters for charging but we do have one with fraying wire....what is going on with me..so worried about all the shoes and clothes and I forget my driving license.

Tonight we are taking taxi to LE TRE BOCCHE (partner cannot walk 35 minutes--he is not doing well at all, of course popping a few Tyoenlol might help but that seems to be out of the question with this person..

We were shipped upon arriving at hotel but our room was ready for us..same one we had last year with the glorious ceiling......CRISMA is the name. I will take photos later.... This hotel occupies one floor on a renovated former private palazzo just across from the Duomo and near the fish market. Staff is exceedingly helpful!!! I had sent three e-mails to a hotel in Bari for a trip next trip. Got no reply. In a flash,, lovely Davide at the hotel called them and sorted it out in 2 minutes!!!! WE have just one floor in a building that looks nondescript and a little neglected on the outside..you would never guess what is on the hotel's floor. I think there are about 6 rooms..have not seen any other guests apart from a little adorable Italian boy who ran away from me when I went to the lobby area in my hotel robe! I have no clothes apart from jeans and a black t-shirt from the plane. And my ugly Merrill clogs......no Bella Figura here! Partner has JCrew shorts and black t-shirt with PRINTING on the front, at least in small letters, some old t-shirt from when he was in the wine business. BJUT anything goes here and we will be just fine!!!!!

Not much more to report as we have not gone out...its in the high 80s and we were really really tired.....

So that's my very tiny tidbit it of news....tomorrow IF we get the car we drive to a rural inn a couple of kms from MARINA DI RAGUSA where we stay for six nights. (The name is Silva Suri and it is the same family as owned our hotel in Ragusa Ibla that we so adored last May).

We have one dinner planned at LA MADIA for partner's birthday, and rest of time will explore the area, hope to get to Ibla and Modica (buy chocolate!!). and the beach, and probably to the Frantoio Cutrera to buy olive oil......that's in Chiaramonte Gulfi....easy drive from Ragusa.

One more thing about this hotel: I have never seen a longer breakfast menu; will take a photo--we already put in our order for 9:15am....Looks like 8 people are living in this room with all we ordered!!!! Everything from cannoli to arancini to granita with brioche ........besides the usual eggs and croissants but here they offer them filled with pistachio cream!!!!!!!


Will now put back same clothing and go find taxi to take us to restaurant.....

Have a wonderful vacation. You can order converter from amazon - we did that when we travelled to Italy in 2021 and we brought a UK converter we were so out of practice! Hope the car rental works-I had to show both my license and IDP so let's hope they are more relaxed in Sicily than Rome.

Can't wait to follow along. At least you know you will eat well!!

Mods, can you mark this as a trip report, please? Thank you.

We rested during our day of arrival and too taxi to LE TRE BOCCHE, a seafood place that was recommended to me by our driver Dario who we hired last year and for a few transfers on this trip.
Taxi cost 13 euro each way from hotel.

LE TRE BOCCHE is fantastic! Exactly what we wanted and I think a perfect Catania restaurant. Only fish and seafood, plus vegetable sides including many "under oil."

WE arrived about 8:45 for our 8:30 booking and the place was jam packed, many tables of large families..everyone is a great mood..babies, old people, couples....I do not think there was one person in the entire, pretty large, place who spoke English and we loved it. Menu is only in Italian and only with the QR code, plus waiter tells you the specials. Very little English spoken by staff but all were very kind even though they were practically sprinting around the dining room, stacked plates held high....it was a real scene and perfect for our first night. It is outside the center, hence the high taxi fares, but you could walk from the Duomo in about 40 minutes. But it is BLAZING HOT here!!! And partner cannot walk that far.


Here are some photos of LE TRE BOCCHE:



LE TRE BOCCHE CATANIA

SARDE A BECCAFICO ALLE CATANESE, BEFORE FRYING--TYPICAL CATANIA SARDINE DISH, not stuffed with raisins as in other parts of the island; here they use pecorino

Our waiter showing us the spigoLI selected, to be baked in salt..fish bar is at front and you choose your selections there; there is also a lobster tank for pasta with aragosta

Sardine after frying...fantastic..2.50 euro each; we had one apiece.

Complimentary fried potato balls

HUGE portion of spaghetti with Vongole (clams); they do not offer half portions here. (12 euro)

Partner's FANTASTIC mezzo paccheri with swordfish, tomatoes, bread crumbs.......best dish of the night. Even he could not finish it!!

Couple at adjacent table gave us a few of their scampi to try.....

This is one of the scampi.....barely cooked and delicious...I asked if they were gamberoni and he admonished me: No, no gamberoni!!! Scampi!!)

Spigola cooked in a salt crust, after waiter broke the crust and filleted the fish..this is half of the total portion served

Crowd outside waiting for a table at 10:30pm!!! Guys in shorts, women dressed up.....such superb people watching here!! We, of course, were on our clothes from the airplanes.. Me in a black t-shirt and blue jeans and partner in shorts. We fit right in, but sure felt grimy!!


Dinner cost 85 euro for both of us, with water and one glass of house white wine.

Got back to the hotel (no reception after 9pm) and were locked out of our room as the card did not work!!!! Called emergency phone number and the lovely front desk guy, Davide, was there is about 25 minutes to let us into our beautiful room at PALAZZO MARLETTA.

Woke early and I visited the fish market at 7:30aam, about two blocks from hotel...great fun...vendors sing Sicilian songs while they cast for customers..everyone super friendly. I bought some yellow peaches and a pistachio cream and a pistachio pesto (4 euros each jar); peaches cost 4 euro per kilo. The fish market is an essential stop in Catania and they have kiosks where you can buy spritzes and fresh orange juice......

Will post a few pics later.....everyone here is so friendly and we were then by how many people were walking at night, taxi could hardly get through the cross just walking along, laughing......so full of life age night when the sun goes down!!!! A great city and one that is overlooked by so many foreign tourists. Architecture is the flower of Sicilian Baroque and you could hurt your neck just craning up to see the glorious details on some of even the most grimy buildings!!! Sorry we are leaving this morning but will back for a night next week...

I hate to break it to you, but you are not supposed to drive without your license. The permit is not a license. I’m sure you know that. If something bad happens, they are going to want to see your license.

Lufthansa is the worst with lost luggage these days. I hope you get your stuff back soon, but consider waiting at the airport for the next flight it could be on, instead of expecting it to follow you.

Wow ekscrunchy ! Great start to the report… other than lost luggage! So glad you enjoyed Le Tre Bocche! Isn’t the variety of seafood on display so appetizing! I was surprised to see species like the cleaver wrasse in that mix. I learned later that it’s fairly common in the Sicilian diet, but perhaps not as common as tuna, swordfish, sardines and anchovies.

re. driving license, when I was in Greece, a dune buggy rental place I used was happy with a photo of my driving license and an original of my IDP.

Can’t wait for your next installment.

All good..we got the car BUT and soon as I drove from Catania to near Marina di Ragusa, the light went on 'LOW BATTERY!!" Rental office will pay for a taxi for me to return an get another car but have to drive all the way back down here. Or I can drive it myself and turn it in!!!!! All these little niggling things.

Alll these years e've been told we need at IDP to rent so I get one, and forget my real US license!! Manager of Sixt told me no problem.....g-d forbid we get in a road mishap he said the cops will not ask to see the actual license, only the IDP. Of course I know I SHOULD have my real license, like I SHOULD have had an IDP every time I went to Europe and rented a car but was never asked for one the the manager of Sixt actually laughed at me and said they never ask to see it. So I get in a "mishap". What are the cops going to do, put me in jail? I'm not worried about that, more about the car battery!

Anyone know about the "low battery" symbol on a car?. How many miles before it won't start? I know that is a silly question but maybe someone has some idea as we are clueless!!! I paid for the road assistance so if it does not start they will help out but do not want to be stuck in a parking lot waiting if I can't get a jump from a kind stranger.

Luggage came on the second flight of the day yesterday from Munich and I picked it up at airport lost and found this morning and packed in in the car and drove down to where we are now. The lost luggage guys were incredibly kind and fun to deal with.

This place, SILVA SURI, is LOVELY!!!!!!

Drive was very easy and roads very good.......just think 5 years ago I was terrified to drive in Europe!! Thank goodness for GPS in the car!

We even ate dinner at the inn (owner calls it a "country hotel") tonight--both very happy. I finally got my spaghetti with Ricci di mare!!!! Will post pics but very tired now and want to read and get off this machine!!!



How do I get this tagged as a trip report???

Thanks for reading....tomorrow I think we will try the beach near here.....it's very HOT--like in the 90s but in afternoon a good breeze set in.....

Yesterday afternoon we lounged at the gorgeous, large pool at this country estate, which I highly recommend IF you have a car.

https://silvasuri.eu



Dinner last night was at the hotel. which is very well regarded for its restaurant by locals. We ate outdoors looking at the lights of the Marina towns on the sea about 3km from here.
I normally shun hotel restaurants but this dinner was lovely. More expensive than Catania but slightly more creative cooking and each of the few dishes we ordered was sublime:


Appetizer of stupendous eggplant parmesan..so light. (18 euro)

Tortine of swordfish and eggplant (came topped with the two perfect friend shrimp which were donated to me, see photo at left). Excellent. (18euro)

Menu

Menu

Spaghettoni with Ricci di mare (sea urchin) topped with coarse bread crumbs (off menu special that I asked for). This is a half order.

Spaghetti alle carrettiera, with Rgusana cheese, basil and diced local tomatoes. (16 euro)

Second day at Silva Suri..YES, we had a working, new car (brand new automatic BMW!!) delivered to the hotel after I did a bit of asking/begging, so as not to have to drive back to Catania to change the car. Bravo to SIXT for good service.

Last night we drove into Marina di Ragusa for dinner and to walk along the lungomare. Even at 8pm the (public) beach was packed! Soft sand, pretty, clear water. Presence of jelly fish: TBD when I finally get to the beach. Today was sort of waste due to waiting for new car.... In Sicily, 45 minutes means two hours! But since we knew that already no problem. These Sicilian men are so courteous!!!! Loving being here even if the heat really precludes any daytime activities except pool or beach.

We had a booking at a lidi (Private beach club with chairs, umbrellas, casual restaurant) in the front line (facing the sea) but could not go due to the car issue. Later this week...

Last night we had dinner in MARISCO in Marina di Ragusa. Partner loved it; I thought it was very good. It was recommended by Vicenzo of Silva Suri.

Tonight when it cools down will drive to Scicli to walk around and have dinner at another Vicenzo-recommended restaurant.

. Driving very very easy here, so far. Drivers are VERY courteous even when I go half the speed limit!!! Since picking up the car only one driver honke4d at me..a big truck who was about 3 inches behind me. I have to go at my own pace.

So many beaches to choose from! Vicenzo recommended Sampieri and Donnalucata but I think the former is public only so you need to cart your chairs, umbrellas, eta. I prefer the private lidi.


DEFINITELY would not recommend coming to Sicily for sightseeing eat this time of year. I can barely walk from the room to the breakfast room without panting...cannot imagine anyone trying to view the Temples at Agrigento,, or doing ANY sightseeing after 9am or before 6pm. Niente!!!!! I'd say it's in the 90s. And if you are not near a beach, a pool would do a lot too mitigate the discomfort but then. you would not be going out and exploring. We've been before ado have no essential sights on our list..... Relax in the heat and walk around a to3wn before dinner. Tonight will be Scicli that many posters were recommended but is a town reportedly hotter than where we are!!!!

Pool at SILVA SURI, near Marina di Ragusa and known for its restaurant. Beautifully restored complex of the owner's grandparents cattle farm....

Lungomare at Marina Ragusa with unknown foreign man posing. Ten minute drive from hotel.

Marina di Ragusa public beach about 8pm.

Nighttime photo of our lodgings, Silva Suri. Owned by the brother of Laura, who owns SABBINIRICA in Ragusa Ibla, where we stayed four nights last May.

What an interesting report! Haven't been to Sicily yet but hope to go before we get too old. Love the photo of the beach at 8PM!!! and all your food photos! Will take your advice and not visit Sicily during the hot summer months!

Here are a few pics from yesterday, with the lunch at RISTORANTE SCALA in Porto Palo: But a few pics I took of the beaches did not make it to the laptop yet....we had a few power cutes duo maybe that is why they are taking so long. We drove from our hotel to PORTO PALO DI CAPO PASSERO to eat lunch here, and then driven a few minutes to Mafrzamemi where I bought a few food items including jars off the tuna pieces with pistacchio that I put on spaghetti last year, at ADELFIA, the large shop on the Main Street, Via Marzamemi, #7. There was a ZTL but no one paid attention!!! We all just scooted around the barriers and no one cared!



Interior of Ristorante Scala...we ate on the terrace which they told us would be cooler; it was fine but temps are in the 90sF. See description of drive, below--two hours from our hotel, they way I drove!!

Friendly waiter..he remembered us from last May, when we had the Same lunch!!

My spaghetti with aragosta (Lobster)...even without the sumptuous lobster, the spaghetti and the fresh tomatoes alone were a wonder......I just added more olive oil......it's got to be the tomatoes, plus the lobster.

My lobster spaghetti in foreground, with partner's spaghetti with fresh local cherry tomatoes....the most simple and the most incredible dish..I can't figure out how they can make it taste so good. All in the ingredients..the fewer ingredients the better has to be their quality!!
Yesterday we took a drive that the GPs estimated at 1 hour 7 minutes. It took me two hours to drive to PortoPalo di Cappo Passero, the southernmost point in Sicily. workaday town but one we had been last year, to eat at the wonderful RISTORANTE SCALA...very simple place a block from the sea (not the beach). No English menu but staff are as kind as they could be. On the way we took the coast road, past Sampieri, a beach reputed to be gorgeous, behind a pine grove, where Armani often sails on his yacht. But all along the drive were glorious beaches with few people on a hot Monday.....turquoise water, looked very clean, with very fine golden sand.

(Photos of the restaurant are above; note that we both wore shorts and t-shirts,, like most other diners).

Lunch for two, with water and one glass wine cost 40 euro. No tip.

MARAZMEMI ADELFIA TUNA SHOP..anything and everything connected with every fish caught in this area, plus dozens upon dozens of local Sicilian products at fair prices with great staff. No English but anyone can get by:



ADELFIA SOP FOR SEAFOOD AND SICILIANN FOODS IN MARZAMEMI. Surprisingly, the town was all but deserted at 3:30pm on a Monday, US Labor Day.

Inside of shop, Marzamemi...big sailing port..lots of new villas......adorable piazza...very much oriented to tourists from everywhere.....


ON the drive there, we passed some glorious beaches along the south coast near Sampieri and Marina di Ispica, but so far they have not made it to the laptop. Water as glorious as the Caribbean! Soft, fine sand, no rocks...

I tried to begin the Montalbano series but so far cannot get into it, as these are some of the places mentioned in his novels.

We have 7 days here at SILVA SURI and I highly recommend this place.....very low key, nice but not fancy rooms..staff ready to do anything for you.



I will add the other two restaurants later on--one in Marina di Ragusa and one in Scicli): neither was very notable.

EK, so glad the car worked out. I have always driven in Europe but we had a hell day on the last day of our N Italy trip last year driving back to Milan and now I am gun shy. I know Sicily is much easier with a car but hoping an occasional private driver and public transport does the trick for us next May. Keep it coming-your reports always make me so hungry. Catania isn't on our list-sound like it should be? How many nights?

I really like Catania and would recommend two nights IF you have time.....even three nights would to be too much, but would you have to cut anything to do that?
Also, a lot of people don't like Catania..there is a recent thread on TripAdvisor that is pretty interesting as the poster was REPULSED by the city! You already know, it has a lot of graffiti on those glorious buildings but so what? The people make up for all of that. And I did not see trash IN the city like so many people talk about.

I'm sorry I am lagging on this thread..we are not really doing much sightseeing due to the heat, and we saw a lot of places last year in this area.....

Just checking in to say that today, after seven nights, we (sadly) checked out of SILVA SURI country hotel, owned by the same family as the B&B we stayed at least year in Ragusa Ibla.
We ate a few meals at t he hotel=excellent, and had three meals outside, all of which were mediocre, the least satisfying being at the lone one-Michelin-star-restaurant in MARINA DI RAGUSA. MARINA itself is fabulous..a long pedestrian-only Lungomare runs along the beach in part of the town and it is lively and so much fun to still around after dark. But still hot!!!

I will be happy to describe the three restaurants we ate at--two in MARINA DI RAGUSA and one in SCICLI--but since they were not great I will just leave it at that unless anyone wants recommendations, or where NOT to eat.

So, this morning after breakfast we packed up the car (yet again, I brought far too many clothes, as so far we have usually worn shorts and t-shirts.) Even in last night's upscale restaurant, Italian men wore shorts and t-shirts and one young man wore what looked like a bathing suit!! One man in shorts was dining with a woman in a red evening gown! Sicily!!!!

Driving in this area of Sicily has been INCREDIBLY PLEASANT AND EASY......and this is from someone who was afraid to drive in Europe until three years ago! Inside the towns it can be tricky, with the narrow streets, but we did it, with some stress. Having a GPS is a huge help, even though for a stretch the voice spoke in mangled "Italglish!" I would not drive inside a city but in the countryside it is a complete breeze. I found drivers to very skilled and very polite even though I rarely dared to go over the speed limit like most others. This gave me a tremendous amount of courage for future trips.

I also want to praise SIXT rental car agency, who several times, went out of their way to help us. This morning after we dropped off the car, we realized that we were a long way from the taxi line in front of the terminal. No mind, the Sixt agent took the wheel and drove us right to the taxi line. We felt such warmth and helpfulness in so many places during this trip that it is really remarkable. I love Sicily more and more! Speak a few rods of Italian and smiles appear, people are interested in chatting....it's just fabulous! So many many times this has happened!!!

Last night in the supermarket I went to take a ticket for the cheese department, and I got #47. The woman next to me already had her ticket, #21. Despite my protests, she insisted that I take her ticket so I would not have to wait so long! Such kindness, over and over again. And if by chance you are American, and even better, if you re from New York, which seems to be every Sicilian's "favorite city," you have it made, in spades!!!

The only negative thing aside from the car breakdown and the missing luggage which have been all but forgotten, was today when the taxi driver's meter from the airport to Catania center read "53 euro." Now,, mind you, this was the guy who told me just five minutes before, how simpatica I was and how lucky my partner was to be with me. But then: 53 euro???? For a 15 minute ride from the airport? When I paid 32 euro last week?
Remember, we are coming from the airport and he knows we are from the US. Obviously I was not standing for THAT rip off, the first and only one we encountered since we arrived. I told him I had paid 30 euro last week and, with a few half-hearted tries to get me to pay up, told me..."OK, 30 euro, okay, okay!" And that's what we paid.

So just take care from an airport...know the fare in advance! Remember that his meter read 53 euro!!

Anyway, it's a delight to be back in Catania.... I had bought a wallet last year (purple!!) that had ripped. I went back to the shop and was greeted with "erica, erica, you have come back!!!! Do you remember me from last year when you also bought the purple ('myrtilo') handbag?????? So they are going to repair the wallet, the guy at our wonderful hotel who is also a customer of this shop, is going to pick it up for me and mail it to me in NYC!
Big city but kind of a small town...and the architecture!!!!

Unfortunatly I really had wanted to visit the museum of the Sbarco, the Allied invasion of Sicily which took place close to Marina di Ragusa, in and around Gela, and the troops proceeded up the same road we drive today!

But it is SO HOT here that after a brief walk around and stop at the ATM and wallet store, I returned to out hotel and relaxed and we will now ready ourselves for dinner inside the "piscaria," the legendary fish market of Catania that turns into a restaurant area at night. I really liked a place I ate at, alone when partner could not walk much, last year, so will take him tonight. The name is VUCIATA, on Via Gisira, in the heart of the market. I loved the eggplant and the horse meatballs so much in 2023 that we will probably order those, among other things... You can see the menu and prices, here:


https://vuciata.com/wp-content/uploa...ummer_24-3.pdf

I know how much you love this area (and helped us so much)! Wishing you a continued fabulous time.

Your report is so fascinating. And it's so nice to hear how helpful and kind the Sicilians are! That's amazing about your purple wallet ....the sales clerk remembered you! Wow! And the hotel guy will pick it up and mail it to you. Amazing!

eks, what a lovely story, it’s these little acts of kindness which we remember years later! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!

Catania is usually given short shrift by Fodorites but we loved it. There so much to see, three amphitheaters from small to huge, St Agata’s built over Roman baths… We had three nights there at the end of our trip in April 2022 and found more than enough to see and do.

Thanks to the three of you!
Geetika, you are so right!

We ate at the piscaria last night and, even apart from the glorious architecture, the vibrancy of the life outdoors is just so compelling!

Here are a few photos of Catania, most of which are from our dinner at VUCIATA on Via Gisira, in the fish market. Our dinner cost 47 euro with Etna Bianca wine and water. We had to cancel the two secondi (swordfish involtini and horse meatballs; I had the latter last year and loved them. Horse and donkey are very big in SE Sicily. But we were too full after the antipasti and the pasta)

....when they brought the pasta plates to the table I thought they had made a mistake and brought us two orders, but they had split one order into two and each one was huge, but more important, delicious. I make eggplant and tomatoes with ricotta salata at home all the time in the summer and mine falls so low In comparison! It's got to be the tomatoes. Probably from near Pachino.

And the waiters were so incredibly lovely and friendly! It was good to see a core of wait staff from so many countries including Egypt, Morocco and sub-Saharan Africa. It's a fun place for a not-expensive meal with not fancy, but excellent, local food.



CATANIA.. Piazza del Duomo about 10pm.

Umbrellas decorate the streets of the fish market, which turns into a restaurant zone at night

VUCIATA KITCHEN MARKET: Eggplant a la Siciliana at left and Caponata at right....

One half of an order of mezzo paccheri all Norma.

Do the Catanese men go to the barber every day?

IRIS...Catanese fried BREAKFAST pastry filled with cream, also comes with chocolate filling.....give me strength!!!! (This morning, at our Catania hotel)
because were were so full after the two eggplant appetizers and the shared paccheri all Norma.....when they brought the pasta plates to the table I thought they had made a mistake and brought us two orders, but they had split one order into two and each one was huge, but more important, delicious. I make eggplant and tomatoes with ricotta salata at home all the time in the summer and mine falls so low I comparison! And the waiters were so incredibly lovely and friendly! It was good to see a core of wait staff from so many countries including Egypt, Morocco and sub-Saharan Africa. It's a fun place for a not-expensive meal with not fancy, but excellent, local food.

Photo of fish market (piscaria) at night, with restaurants, one after another:


Via Gisira, Catania, a few steps from the Duomo.



This morning after breakfast, we were collected by DARIO CAFISO, ([email protected]) the driver who we had hired last year and who I HIGHLY recommend. He drives a new Mercedes van stocked with water and snacks. He drove us, and all of our assorted bags, to the port at Milazzo (about two hours from Catania Centro). We ran into traffic near Giarre but happily, we made the Liberty Line hydrofoil 2pm departure to Salina, our base for the next 12 nights. He will collect us at the end of our stay in Salina, and drive us to our final destination in Sicily, near Siracusa, and then to the airport.

And yet again, local people went out of their way to assist. I guess because we look old and feeble (well, partner does, I look young as a spring chicken as my Nana used to say!). We were ushered to the front of the line AND, not only that, a man from Messina traveling with his wife and grandchild insisted on carrying BOTH of our heavy cases all the way onto the boat and storing them in the bagagli area.

The boat was very hot and I wished I had brought a fan like many other passengers had on hand. But I now carry a washcloth art all time for moments like that, and I had to use it on the boat!
The boat to Salina makes two stops--Vulcano and Lipari, and arrives in Salina exactly at the appointed time, after a trip of about 1.5 hours. In a repeat of last year, we were picked up by a driver from our hotel, and rode along with two very friendly guys from London who are on their MINI honeymoon, after being married a few days ago in Ortigia!!!!! I am happy they are here with us in this small hotel, as dinners are communal and they seem like fun. I have already made a deal with one of the staff, Donna, from Lipari. She will speak to me only in English and I must speak to her only in Italian. (We will see how far that plan goes!!).

We have been here last year, when it rained for much of the time. We have a glorious view over the sea and are so happy to be back here. Unfortunately, the wonderful chef of last year (mother of the owner) has retired and no longer cooks for us, so we shall see how the food is but I expect very good things. And the husband of the owner is a fantastic break baker and pizza maker (that is all my partner wanted to know: Will Filippo still be there, making his bread!?!?!). Filippo is from the Middle East (I forget where) and they both lived in Saudi for years so it is fascinating to speak with Anita about that time in their lives.

Aboard Liberty Lines ferry to Salina, from Milazzo Porto.

Dapper Italian fellow-traveler.....it's not only the haircuts, it all the rest--the hats, the glasses, the fit of the clothing, etc etc.....!!