Itinerary feedback for Provence portion of trip
#1
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Joined: Jan 2024
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Itinerary feedback for Provence portion of trip
Hello - thanks to everyone for the great info I've found here! My wife and I are planning a 2-week trip to France this May, and would appreciate some feedback on Provence plans.
We will arrive in Paris in the early am for a jet-lag half day walking around the city. We then have 5 full days in Paris, one of which is a trip to Versailles and surrounding areas.
We will travel to Provence via TGV to Avignon, pick up rental car, and have booked a hotel in Saint Rémy. I'm trying to make a general plan for 4 open full days in Provence. Some things we are interested in, somewhat grouped by locale and listed in a rough order of priority; more than fit in the available time:
- Plan A - St. Paul de Mausole, Les Baux, maybe Carrières des Lumières, drive/hike through Alpilles, maybe find olive mill (this may be a lot for a day)
- Plan B - Pont du Gard and museum (museum closed Monday morning), possibly Roman stuff in Nimes or, more likely, visit Uzès
- Plan C - Lubéron villages L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue, Gordes, Rousillion, others and general driving around the area
- Plan D - wine trip to Gigandas (or Châteauneuf-du-Pape), up through Vaison-la-Romaine, plus scenic drive in this area and east of Vaison (I have Stu's 2023 itinerary and Michelin Green guide)
- Plan E - Arles
- Plan F - Avignon
Arles and Avignon will probably drop off the list. We'll want a good bit of unplanned time in Provence, and with Paris and Aix bookending the trip, we'll probably stay in smaller and more rural areas in between.
We're thinking of going to the Sunday morning market in L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue. If so, what would then be a good plan for Sunday afternoon? Hitting the larger villages of Gordes and Rousillion? Assuming the smaller villages would be closed up. Or sticking with scenic drives and/or heading north towards Gigandas? I also know many things are closed on Monday also (especially in the mornings) - keeping that in mind.
What are folks thoughts of wine touring here? I want to learn more about French wines and do some tastings, but don't want an involved/formal affair. We could hire a knowledgeable local guide to drive us around that region or just visit a couple of spots.
We're also looking for schedules for Course Camarguaise in different towns in the area to attend one event. It appears Saint Rémy has one the day we arrive, but we cannot find times listed yet. I may contact the tourist offices for more information.
Wednesday morning Saint Rémy market. Assuming tourist areas around Saint Rémy will be busy Wednesday afternoon, we may get provisions at market for an out-of-the-way picnic and lazy afternoon or decide to head further out of town. Maybe visit Pont du Gard that afternoon and drop Uzès/Nimes? This frees a day for other activities.
Provence Day 6, leave Saint Rémy towards Aix-en-Provence. Possibly visit Cassis to see Mediterranean with a boat ride through Calanques or wonder through other parts of Alpilles and Lubéron we may have missed. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is a consideration, but that seems a bit out of the way for this trip?
Drop off rental car and have 2 nights in Aix-en-Provence. Spend our last day hanging out in Aix-en-Provence.
Provence Day 8, early taxi to Marseille airport for flight home.
Thanks for any feedback or advice anyone has to share. I think we've kept things to a reasonable and flexible list while still getting a good taste of the region, but would love other opinions.
We will arrive in Paris in the early am for a jet-lag half day walking around the city. We then have 5 full days in Paris, one of which is a trip to Versailles and surrounding areas.
We will travel to Provence via TGV to Avignon, pick up rental car, and have booked a hotel in Saint Rémy. I'm trying to make a general plan for 4 open full days in Provence. Some things we are interested in, somewhat grouped by locale and listed in a rough order of priority; more than fit in the available time:
- Plan A - St. Paul de Mausole, Les Baux, maybe Carrières des Lumières, drive/hike through Alpilles, maybe find olive mill (this may be a lot for a day)
- Plan B - Pont du Gard and museum (museum closed Monday morning), possibly Roman stuff in Nimes or, more likely, visit Uzès
- Plan C - Lubéron villages L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue, Gordes, Rousillion, others and general driving around the area
- Plan D - wine trip to Gigandas (or Châteauneuf-du-Pape), up through Vaison-la-Romaine, plus scenic drive in this area and east of Vaison (I have Stu's 2023 itinerary and Michelin Green guide)
- Plan E - Arles
- Plan F - Avignon
Arles and Avignon will probably drop off the list. We'll want a good bit of unplanned time in Provence, and with Paris and Aix bookending the trip, we'll probably stay in smaller and more rural areas in between.
We're thinking of going to the Sunday morning market in L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue. If so, what would then be a good plan for Sunday afternoon? Hitting the larger villages of Gordes and Rousillion? Assuming the smaller villages would be closed up. Or sticking with scenic drives and/or heading north towards Gigandas? I also know many things are closed on Monday also (especially in the mornings) - keeping that in mind.
What are folks thoughts of wine touring here? I want to learn more about French wines and do some tastings, but don't want an involved/formal affair. We could hire a knowledgeable local guide to drive us around that region or just visit a couple of spots.
We're also looking for schedules for Course Camarguaise in different towns in the area to attend one event. It appears Saint Rémy has one the day we arrive, but we cannot find times listed yet. I may contact the tourist offices for more information.
Wednesday morning Saint Rémy market. Assuming tourist areas around Saint Rémy will be busy Wednesday afternoon, we may get provisions at market for an out-of-the-way picnic and lazy afternoon or decide to head further out of town. Maybe visit Pont du Gard that afternoon and drop Uzès/Nimes? This frees a day for other activities.
Provence Day 6, leave Saint Rémy towards Aix-en-Provence. Possibly visit Cassis to see Mediterranean with a boat ride through Calanques or wonder through other parts of Alpilles and Lubéron we may have missed. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is a consideration, but that seems a bit out of the way for this trip?
Drop off rental car and have 2 nights in Aix-en-Provence. Spend our last day hanging out in Aix-en-Provence.
Provence Day 8, early taxi to Marseille airport for flight home.
Thanks for any feedback or advice anyone has to share. I think we've kept things to a reasonable and flexible list while still getting a good taste of the region, but would love other opinions.
#2


Joined: Mar 2003
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When you say you have 4 open full days in Provence, does that mean you have 5 nights in Provence? I am happy to see that you are staying in St. Remy. It's the perfect location for visiting the Luberon villages and the other places you are interested in visiting. Our oldest daughter lived near St. Remy with her family until they recently re-located back to the US. We visited all of these places as daytrips from her home, although those visits were spread out over a number of visits. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is at least a 2-hour drive one way so it would be too far for a daytrip. We visited Moustiers when we visited the Gorge du Verdon, and we spent a few nights there. I wouldn't do it as a daytrip.
When you say Plan A, is this your first full day in Provence? And Plan B is your second full day, etc.? Have you made your airline reservations? What days of the week will you be in Provence?
For Plan A, you can easily visit St. Paul de Mausole and Les Baux. Visit the archaeological site of Glanum. The Carrieres des Lumieres is definitely worth seeing. And then you can explore the ruined medieval castle at the top. Have lunch somewhere in Les Baux. Not sure if you have time for other sightseeing. You can wing it at this point.
Plan B - Uzes would would make sense after visiting Pont Du Gard.
Plan C - Visiting the Luberon villages; In addition to Gordes and Rousillion, I recommend Bonnieux and Menerbes. We visited L'Isle Sur La Sorgue one year on a Sunday for the market, and it was absolutely mobbed! I am usually not averse to crowds, but we were rubbing elbows with everyone else there. It was unpleasant. And my husband had to cirlce around and around looking for parking. Our French son-in-law said "Never again." I would go to the Thursday market if possible. But I think the antiques market is not open on Thurdays. Just remember that driving through the Luberon is slow because of the narrow twisty roads.
Plan D - The drive to Gigondas was spectacular! Gorgeous scenery through the Dentelles. I remember visiting a small castle in the area. And we had lunch in Bedoin.
Will you be in Provence on a Friday? If so, I highly recommend visiting the lovely untouristed village of Eygalieres, which is about 20 minutes from St. Remy. Their Friday morning market is wonderful; you will hear mainly French spoken. This is a market where locals go. Very few foreign tourists. There are several great restaurants for lunch. Walk to the top of the hill to see the chateau ruins with gorgeous views of the valley below. Even if you aren't there on a Friday, I think Eygalieres is worth a visit if you want to get away from the tourist hordes.
We love Aix. Our daughter lived there for a couple years and we visited several times. Market days are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Visit the Cezanne Studio, Museum Granet, or just wander through the very pretty Old Town with no schedule in mind. My favorite square is Place d'albertas.
When you say Plan A, is this your first full day in Provence? And Plan B is your second full day, etc.? Have you made your airline reservations? What days of the week will you be in Provence?
For Plan A, you can easily visit St. Paul de Mausole and Les Baux. Visit the archaeological site of Glanum. The Carrieres des Lumieres is definitely worth seeing. And then you can explore the ruined medieval castle at the top. Have lunch somewhere in Les Baux. Not sure if you have time for other sightseeing. You can wing it at this point.
Plan B - Uzes would would make sense after visiting Pont Du Gard.
Plan C - Visiting the Luberon villages; In addition to Gordes and Rousillion, I recommend Bonnieux and Menerbes. We visited L'Isle Sur La Sorgue one year on a Sunday for the market, and it was absolutely mobbed! I am usually not averse to crowds, but we were rubbing elbows with everyone else there. It was unpleasant. And my husband had to cirlce around and around looking for parking. Our French son-in-law said "Never again." I would go to the Thursday market if possible. But I think the antiques market is not open on Thurdays. Just remember that driving through the Luberon is slow because of the narrow twisty roads.
Plan D - The drive to Gigondas was spectacular! Gorgeous scenery through the Dentelles. I remember visiting a small castle in the area. And we had lunch in Bedoin.
Will you be in Provence on a Friday? If so, I highly recommend visiting the lovely untouristed village of Eygalieres, which is about 20 minutes from St. Remy. Their Friday morning market is wonderful; you will hear mainly French spoken. This is a market where locals go. Very few foreign tourists. There are several great restaurants for lunch. Walk to the top of the hill to see the chateau ruins with gorgeous views of the valley below. Even if you aren't there on a Friday, I think Eygalieres is worth a visit if you want to get away from the tourist hordes.
We love Aix. Our daughter lived there for a couple years and we visited several times. Market days are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Visit the Cezanne Studio, Museum Granet, or just wander through the very pretty Old Town with no schedule in mind. My favorite square is Place d'albertas.
#3


Joined: Mar 2003
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Here is the link to my TR from December 2022, our last visit to France. Includes photos and some information on restaurants.
Provence in December
Provence in December
#4
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Joined: Jan 2024
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The 'Plan' days are unscheduled general ideas of what I thought would fit into a single day and be near each other. Our travel days are all set; now we're making rough plans for the 5 days based out of St. Rémy. I'm hoping to keep most things flexible to adjust for what we find when we're there, weather, etc.
I am concerned with crowd size for Sunday market at L'ilse-sur-la-Sorgue, but my wife is interested in it. This will be 12 May. Any experience with this time of year? It's shoulder season and not peak season, but it is also the Sunday after the holidays of Victory Day Wednesday, Ascension Day Thursday, and 'go ahead and take it off also' Friday. The deal may be to get there very early if we do it. If we don't visit L'ilse-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday, what do you think is a good alternative for that day?
The day in Aix will be our last day of the trip, so "wander through the very pretty Old Town with no schedule in mind" will probably be our choice.
Thanks again for the feedback!
#6


Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,173
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thomasrutledge6541, if you do go to L'Isle Sur La Sorgue on Sunday, definitely get there as early as possible. If you decide not to go on Sunday, then another possibility could be Lourmarin and Ansouis. Lourmarin is a very pretty village that you can explore, have lunch and visit the Chateau de Lourmarin. I think Ansouis is lovely, too, situated on a hilltop. Very pleasant to stroll around and have drinks or lunch outdoors. It wasn't crowded when we were there one time in the summer. I think it's a bit off the beaten track. And I remember driving to a wonderful place for ice cream that is nearby. Located on a hill with wonderful views. You eat outside on their terrace. Here is the link.
https://www.artglacier.com/
And here is a link to the market days in Provence.
https://provencedays.com/explore/act...0the%20village.
I don't remember exactly when we went to the Sunday market in L'Isle Sur La Sorgue. We visited France many times and at different times of the year when our daughter was there. I know the weather was warm. So either during the summer months, or it could possibly have been in May. I know we visited once in May but not sure if that is when we went to the Sunday market. Does Stu Dudley give any insight into this in his report?
https://www.artglacier.com/
And here is a link to the market days in Provence.
https://provencedays.com/explore/act...0the%20village.
I don't remember exactly when we went to the Sunday market in L'Isle Sur La Sorgue. We visited France many times and at different times of the year when our daughter was there. I know the weather was warm. So either during the summer months, or it could possibly have been in May. I know we visited once in May but not sure if that is when we went to the Sunday market. Does Stu Dudley give any insight into this in his report?
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#8

Joined: Apr 2010
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Provence probably my most fav region in France, we were in the Luberon last in June 2018 and hope to go back next year.
St Rémy is a perfect choice, do visit the ancient Roman site of Glanum on the outskirts of the town. The walk to the Van Gogh asylum takes you past several iconic sites the artist immortalized on his canvases, the asylum itself is a haven of peace, but the tiny room and view of lavander fields from the grilled window brings tears to your eyes. One of the paintings in the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam portrays this scene, albeit with darkening sky and crows circling.
The drive from Gigondas around the Dentelles is gorgeous, do stop at Vaison la Romaine, Seguret, etc. Gigondas has a wine coop with an extensive collection, a good place for tastings. There’s also an excellent Michelin star restaurant right across the road, l’Oustalet, you’ll of course need to make reservations. This circuit will take the better part of the day.
I’d spend half a day in Avignon if possible, the Palais des Papes is interesting and the half finished Pont d’Avignon a quirky sight. Do try and fit in Les Baux and the Carrières des Lumières.
We enjoyed the visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, especially the ruins of the chateau at the top of the village. On Stu’s suggestion we did a winery visit at Beaucastel a short distance away, then came back for tastings in town.
We didn’t have time for Uzès and Pont du Gard on our last trip, so much to see and do and never enough time!
St Rémy is a perfect choice, do visit the ancient Roman site of Glanum on the outskirts of the town. The walk to the Van Gogh asylum takes you past several iconic sites the artist immortalized on his canvases, the asylum itself is a haven of peace, but the tiny room and view of lavander fields from the grilled window brings tears to your eyes. One of the paintings in the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam portrays this scene, albeit with darkening sky and crows circling.
The drive from Gigondas around the Dentelles is gorgeous, do stop at Vaison la Romaine, Seguret, etc. Gigondas has a wine coop with an extensive collection, a good place for tastings. There’s also an excellent Michelin star restaurant right across the road, l’Oustalet, you’ll of course need to make reservations. This circuit will take the better part of the day.
I’d spend half a day in Avignon if possible, the Palais des Papes is interesting and the half finished Pont d’Avignon a quirky sight. Do try and fit in Les Baux and the Carrières des Lumières.
We enjoyed the visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, especially the ruins of the chateau at the top of the village. On Stu’s suggestion we did a winery visit at Beaucastel a short distance away, then came back for tastings in town.
We didn’t have time for Uzès and Pont du Gard on our last trip, so much to see and do and never enough time!
#10
Joined: Nov 2004
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Stu Dudley
#11


Joined: Mar 2003
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Regarding weather, when we were in Provence in May I remember having beautiful weather, sunny and warm. Not too hot for sightseeing. We have experienced very little rain whenever we visited Provence. Of course, you can't predict from year to year. We have experienced very hot weather in July and August (mid to high 90's) , so you are wise going in May.
#12
Joined: Aug 2019
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I have traveled every season many times to Provence. Crowds nor weather stop me. I like your plans - I always plan with the best lunch spots in the towns that I am setting out to see. Dinners I plan ahead as well if staying in St Remy or in a town. When I stay long term in a house I like to cook at home for dinner. Slow travel is the best way to go.
Sunday is great for L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue because it is brocante (antique flea market day). Others said they did not like it but if you want to find treasures it's a great day to go. Also a good day Châteauneuf-du-Pape and wine tour. So much is closed on Sundays so a good day to have a solid plan. You could do both of these in one day.
Consider not dropping off car before Aix because it will cost a fortune to taxi to airport. Ask your hotel about parking. Just return your car at Marseille (MRS) it is easy - small airport.
Aix en Provence is lovely - Yes to Cassis -
Allow time in St Remy the town - great shopping! Love the market on Wednesday a must! RegardingPlan C -one day- Lubéron villages Lourmarin (my fave!) Go to the Chateau. Gordes a must see but quick to see. Don't forget the lunch break times and driving you don't want to be rushed.
Sunday is great for L'Ilse-Sur-La-Sorgue because it is brocante (antique flea market day). Others said they did not like it but if you want to find treasures it's a great day to go. Also a good day Châteauneuf-du-Pape and wine tour. So much is closed on Sundays so a good day to have a solid plan. You could do both of these in one day.
Consider not dropping off car before Aix because it will cost a fortune to taxi to airport. Ask your hotel about parking. Just return your car at Marseille (MRS) it is easy - small airport.
Aix en Provence is lovely - Yes to Cassis -
Allow time in St Remy the town - great shopping! Love the market on Wednesday a must! RegardingPlan C -one day- Lubéron villages Lourmarin (my fave!) Go to the Chateau. Gordes a must see but quick to see. Don't forget the lunch break times and driving you don't want to be rushed.
#15

Joined: Sep 2019
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+1 for Gigondas and the picturesque Dentelles. No need to take a 5 hour return journey to Moustiers Sainte Marie, plenty of lovely scenery in western Provence.
Taxi from Aix to Marseille airport will cost about €50-60 depending on time of day.
https://aide.marseille.aeroport.fr/h...rseille-ou-Aix
A shuttle bus from the central bus station starts operating at 04h50 and whisks you to the airport in 40 minutes.
Your call whether the convenient car trip is worth extra days' rental and parking. Depends on the firm whether there will be an easy drop off location in Aix.
Taxi from Aix to Marseille airport will cost about €50-60 depending on time of day.
https://aide.marseille.aeroport.fr/h...rseille-ou-Aix
A shuttle bus from the central bus station starts operating at 04h50 and whisks you to the airport in 40 minutes.
Your call whether the convenient car trip is worth extra days' rental and parking. Depends on the firm whether there will be an easy drop off location in Aix.
#17

Joined: Jan 2003
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You already have many good ideas.
On the wine visits, our last trip to Provence included my husband and adult daughter, who are huge oenophiles. I am not. They preferred Chateauneuf-du-Pape over Gigandas, as a town to visit wine shops and caves. They very much enjoyed long conversations with the people at the shops/caves. After a while, I got bored and walked over to a cafe, having a coffee and people-watching.
To add another possibility, though you have far more on your list already than you have time for, if you like prehistoric cave paintings, look into Grotte Chauvet-Pont d'Arc. It's actually in the Ardeche, and a drive, but we decided we wanted to visit and this was likely the closest we would ever be to that site. Note, also, that what you will see is the expert reconstruction, as (like Lascaux), but to us it was still stunning (and knowing the actual cave was just around the corner).
Do you already have your lodging?
On the wine visits, our last trip to Provence included my husband and adult daughter, who are huge oenophiles. I am not. They preferred Chateauneuf-du-Pape over Gigandas, as a town to visit wine shops and caves. They very much enjoyed long conversations with the people at the shops/caves. After a while, I got bored and walked over to a cafe, having a coffee and people-watching.
To add another possibility, though you have far more on your list already than you have time for, if you like prehistoric cave paintings, look into Grotte Chauvet-Pont d'Arc. It's actually in the Ardeche, and a drive, but we decided we wanted to visit and this was likely the closest we would ever be to that site. Note, also, that what you will see is the expert reconstruction, as (like Lascaux), but to us it was still stunning (and knowing the actual cave was just around the corner).
Do you already have your lodging?
#19

Joined: Apr 2010
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Châteauneuf-du-Pape definitely has way more caves/wine shops than Gigondas, which is rural and has just the coop, plus sweeping views of the vineyards down the valley. The former is much more commercial and busier. But there again the surrounding area is beautiful and we particularly enjoyed exploring the ruins at the upper town.
#20
Joined: Nov 2004
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The coop in Gigondas is quite plain & basic. They offer little/no advice - you just tell them what wine you want to taste, and they pour some in a glass from a plastic bottle. But they have a huge selection of wines - not just one winery. It's usually one of the first places we visit when we stay in the area.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley



