Planning Andalucia next spring
Jul 30th, 2022, 02:28 PM
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Planning Andalucia next spring
The plans for this year’s vacation are all set, so it’s time for 2023 planning. DH and I, both in our mid-late 50s (when did that happen???) are going to Spain: Andalucia, 3 weeks in probably late April, early May. Easter will be April 9th, so hopefully fewer crowds by April 15th.
Here is a first draft, and I’m looking for input and comments:
5 full days (6n) in Seville, with a day trip to Cadiz.
Then we’ll get a car.
4 full days (5n) in Ronda. I know some might think it’s too long, but we’ll use it as base for:
1 day Ronda
1 day drive to Setenil de las Bodegas and Olvera
1 day drive Zahara de la Sierra and Grazelma
1 day hike Caminito del Rey
Drive to Granada via El Torcal de Antequera and drop off car. From now on, all transfers will be by train.
3 full days (4n) in Granada, with a day trip to Guadix
2 full days (3n) Cordoba
3 full days (4n) Toledo, with a day trip to Segovia. I would love to see the windmills at Consuegra on the way to Toledo but unless we rent a car for the day, I don’t think there’s a way to do it.
Fly back from Madrid.
We’re skipping Madrid, I’ve visited it many years ago, and while I liked it, I don’t have any desire to go back, The other places seem much more interesting for us: history, nature, architecture, smaller towns.
So, how does this sound? Thank you.
Here is a first draft, and I’m looking for input and comments:
5 full days (6n) in Seville, with a day trip to Cadiz.
Then we’ll get a car.
4 full days (5n) in Ronda. I know some might think it’s too long, but we’ll use it as base for:
1 day Ronda
1 day drive to Setenil de las Bodegas and Olvera
1 day drive Zahara de la Sierra and Grazelma
1 day hike Caminito del Rey
Drive to Granada via El Torcal de Antequera and drop off car. From now on, all transfers will be by train.
3 full days (4n) in Granada, with a day trip to Guadix
2 full days (3n) Cordoba
3 full days (4n) Toledo, with a day trip to Segovia. I would love to see the windmills at Consuegra on the way to Toledo but unless we rent a car for the day, I don’t think there’s a way to do it.
Fly back from Madrid.
We’re skipping Madrid, I’ve visited it many years ago, and while I liked it, I don’t have any desire to go back, The other places seem much more interesting for us: history, nature, architecture, smaller towns.
So, how does this sound? Thank you.
Jul 30th, 2022, 02:56 PM
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Sounds like you have an awesome trip planned with a lot of time in each destination so you won't be rushing around like a nut!
The trains are an awesome way to travel. If for some reason the train schedule doesn't work out for you on some routes, also look into the ALSA buses. They are convenient, on time, clean, air conditioned, and modern. When we visited Andalucia in 2017, the train tracks weren't finished to/from Granada, so we took the ALSA bus for 2 legs.
I can't comment on the white hill towns because we didn't go there. But I like your allotment of time for the other destinations. Six nights in Seville with a day trip to Cadiz is perfect. We had 4 nights without any daytrips and I always wished we had an extra night. The same is true for Cordoba and Granada. We had 2 nights in each place and wished we had at least one extra night. We only spent one night in Toledo, and a second night would have been nice, but I didn't love Toledo the same way some people do. Four nights might be too much for me but you are visiting Segovia from Toledo so it's probably fine. And each person is different. I am sure many people would prefer 3 or 4 nights in Toledo. Perhaps you can find a bus tour to Consuegra from Toledo.
In Seville, I recommend visiting Casa di Pilatos. It's a small beautiful palace that is off the beaten track, at least it was when we were there in 2017. And in Cordoba, visit Palacio de Viana with its 12 lovely patios, another place that is off the beaten path.
The trains are an awesome way to travel. If for some reason the train schedule doesn't work out for you on some routes, also look into the ALSA buses. They are convenient, on time, clean, air conditioned, and modern. When we visited Andalucia in 2017, the train tracks weren't finished to/from Granada, so we took the ALSA bus for 2 legs.I can't comment on the white hill towns because we didn't go there. But I like your allotment of time for the other destinations. Six nights in Seville with a day trip to Cadiz is perfect. We had 4 nights without any daytrips and I always wished we had an extra night. The same is true for Cordoba and Granada. We had 2 nights in each place and wished we had at least one extra night. We only spent one night in Toledo, and a second night would have been nice, but I didn't love Toledo the same way some people do. Four nights might be too much for me but you are visiting Segovia from Toledo so it's probably fine. And each person is different. I am sure many people would prefer 3 or 4 nights in Toledo. Perhaps you can find a bus tour to Consuegra from Toledo.
In Seville, I recommend visiting Casa di Pilatos. It's a small beautiful palace that is off the beaten track, at least it was when we were there in 2017. And in Cordoba, visit Palacio de Viana with its 12 lovely patios, another place that is off the beaten path.
Jul 30th, 2022, 04:33 PM
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Hi Karen,
We don't travel too fast, and for us, taking it slow is much better. The places we remember fondly are the ones where we spent 6-9 nights.
Glad to hear that what we have in mind is a good draft, and both Casa di Pilatos and Palacio de Viana are on the list (which makes me think they might not be that off the beaten path anymore). Any recommendation for which area to stay in each town?
We don't travel too fast, and for us, taking it slow is much better. The places we remember fondly are the ones where we spent 6-9 nights.
Glad to hear that what we have in mind is a good draft, and both Casa di Pilatos and Palacio de Viana are on the list (which makes me think they might not be that off the beaten path anymore). Any recommendation for which area to stay in each town?
Jul 30th, 2022, 06:39 PM
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For Seville, we stayed in Apartamentos Suites Santa Cruz in Barrio Santa Cruz, which is the pedestrianized area of Seville. We had a small apartment which was nice for 4 nights, but we didn't cook there. We prefer to eat out, but it was roomy for 4 nights. The only drawback to staying in Barrio Santa Cruz is that our taxi could not drop us off right in front of the apartments. We had to walk several block with our luggage. But we didn't mind, and it's a very central location.
In Granada, we stayed at El Ladron D'Agua on Carrera del Darro, which is parallel to the Rio Darro, and at the bottom of the Albayzin. The location is very convenient to Plaza Nueva and restaurants, cafes, and stores. We took a taxi to Alhambra.
In Cordoba, we stayed at Las Casas de la Juderia, right on the edge of the Juderia. We walked every where, except to Palacio de Viana. We took a cab there.
And in Toledo, we stayed at Abad Toledo on Real del Arrabal. This small hotel is located at the bottom of the old town's hill and just inside the Bisagra Gate.
In Granada, we stayed at El Ladron D'Agua on Carrera del Darro, which is parallel to the Rio Darro, and at the bottom of the Albayzin. The location is very convenient to Plaza Nueva and restaurants, cafes, and stores. We took a taxi to Alhambra.
In Cordoba, we stayed at Las Casas de la Juderia, right on the edge of the Juderia. We walked every where, except to Palacio de Viana. We took a cab there.
And in Toledo, we stayed at Abad Toledo on Real del Arrabal. This small hotel is located at the bottom of the old town's hill and just inside the Bisagra Gate.
Jul 30th, 2022, 09:42 PM
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Looks pretty good to me. We spent a year in Andalucia in Villanueva del Tabuco , close to Antequera and loved it! We visited many of the places you mention and would (and did) return to most of them.
In addition to Cadiz, I would think about a day trip to Jerez especially if you have any interest in Sherry and Flamenco.
Make sure to book tickets for El Caminito del Ray early. We struggled to get them.
El Torcal deserves more than a drive through. There are some nice hiking trails there that take just an hour or two. I would also think about a night or in Antequera rather than all that time in Ronda.
When we ventured out and about we generally stayed at Paradors always full of character, great food and often in stunning buildings and locations. They often do some really good deals for packages of nights/driving routes
In addition to Cadiz, I would think about a day trip to Jerez especially if you have any interest in Sherry and Flamenco.
Make sure to book tickets for El Caminito del Ray early. We struggled to get them.
El Torcal deserves more than a drive through. There are some nice hiking trails there that take just an hour or two. I would also think about a night or in Antequera rather than all that time in Ronda.
When we ventured out and about we generally stayed at Paradors always full of character, great food and often in stunning buildings and locations. They often do some really good deals for packages of nights/driving routes
Jul 31st, 2022, 05:12 AM
#6
The trip sounds fabulous, xyz! And I need to look at my trip report and other notes for some additional ideas. A few thoughts while they are fresh in my mind..
I wonder if you might shave a day here and there and stay in Cadiz. We never got there, mind you, but it’s a place I’d like to visit, though in looking at it, it looks like a large enough place that I’d want to stay several nights in order to feel the ambience. Again, we haven’t been there so I’m only “thinking out loud”.
From Ronda (love that place), we really enjoyed driving through the region. We visited the Cava de La Pileta, a prehistoric cave, which was wonderful. We also drove to a couple of the Pueblos Blancos, but it was a Sunday, and parking was awful. We found the visit to the towns okay, but too rushed to really enjoy the experience fully. I mention this because I think one day of visiting the towns would be enough for me. So, for my money, I would take a day from Seville (no need for the day trip), a day from Ronda, and maybe one more and stay in Cadiz rather than making a day trip.
Other places and thoughts…
I used Maribel’s guides for a lot of my planning for our 2015 trip.
In Toledo, we stayed in a small, modest hotel, Santa Isabel, but it was centrally located and we had a room with a good view. Nothing fancy but very comfortable.
In Seville (one of our all time favorite cities), we rented an apartment in the Centro through VeoApartments on Calle Pajaritos. We loved the location - I had mixed feelings over the apartment, but the location was fantastic.
In Cordoba, we stayed in an Airbnb - small, but fantastic view and we loved it.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/648573?...2-bb4bd139b411
In Granada, we loved (like KarenWoo) the hotel, the Hotel Ladron de Agua. The hotel is lovely and the location is superb.
In Ronda, we stayed in Hotel Montelirio, which was so perfectly sited, overlooking the gorge. We stayed in one of the smaller rooms but it was still wonderful.
If I think of anything else, I’ll let you know!
I wonder if you might shave a day here and there and stay in Cadiz. We never got there, mind you, but it’s a place I’d like to visit, though in looking at it, it looks like a large enough place that I’d want to stay several nights in order to feel the ambience. Again, we haven’t been there so I’m only “thinking out loud”.
From Ronda (love that place), we really enjoyed driving through the region. We visited the Cava de La Pileta, a prehistoric cave, which was wonderful. We also drove to a couple of the Pueblos Blancos, but it was a Sunday, and parking was awful. We found the visit to the towns okay, but too rushed to really enjoy the experience fully. I mention this because I think one day of visiting the towns would be enough for me. So, for my money, I would take a day from Seville (no need for the day trip), a day from Ronda, and maybe one more and stay in Cadiz rather than making a day trip.
Other places and thoughts…
I used Maribel’s guides for a lot of my planning for our 2015 trip.
In Toledo, we stayed in a small, modest hotel, Santa Isabel, but it was centrally located and we had a room with a good view. Nothing fancy but very comfortable.
In Seville (one of our all time favorite cities), we rented an apartment in the Centro through VeoApartments on Calle Pajaritos. We loved the location - I had mixed feelings over the apartment, but the location was fantastic.
In Cordoba, we stayed in an Airbnb - small, but fantastic view and we loved it.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/648573?...2-bb4bd139b411
In Granada, we loved (like KarenWoo) the hotel, the Hotel Ladron de Agua. The hotel is lovely and the location is superb.
In Ronda, we stayed in Hotel Montelirio, which was so perfectly sited, overlooking the gorge. We stayed in one of the smaller rooms but it was still wonderful.
If I think of anything else, I’ll let you know!
Last edited by progol; Jul 31st, 2022 at 05:20 AM.
Jul 31st, 2022, 07:19 AM
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Wow, thank you all, some great ideas. I need to sit and think...
A few days in Cadiz sounds nice, it's by the water, while everything else is inland. Definitely a good idea.
Crellston, thanks fro the tip on the El Caminito del Ray tickets. I'll get them as soon as the plans are finalized. Should we worry about rain?
El Torcal - I was thinking of spending the day there, hiking. Leave Ronda in the morning, and get to Granada later in the day. Will that work?
Jerez was on my "maybe" list, and I will look at that again. We have for now 4 full days in Seville, is that too long for Seville only?
Now that I look at our days, the white villages are Sun and Mon, I did not consider the crowds and parking. I need to re-work that, too.
Thank you for all hotel/apt recommendations, they all sound wonderful.
Progol, the prehistoric cave is now on the list.
A few days in Cadiz sounds nice, it's by the water, while everything else is inland. Definitely a good idea.
Crellston, thanks fro the tip on the El Caminito del Ray tickets. I'll get them as soon as the plans are finalized. Should we worry about rain?
El Torcal - I was thinking of spending the day there, hiking. Leave Ronda in the morning, and get to Granada later in the day. Will that work?
Jerez was on my "maybe" list, and I will look at that again. We have for now 4 full days in Seville, is that too long for Seville only?
Now that I look at our days, the white villages are Sun and Mon, I did not consider the crowds and parking. I need to re-work that, too.
Thank you for all hotel/apt recommendations, they all sound wonderful.
Progol, the prehistoric cave is now on the list.
Jul 31st, 2022, 07:45 AM
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I agree with all the comments above, but just wanted to add to watch your dates in terms of Easter since prices tend to go up quite a bit then. Also, our favorite tapas in Seville were at Eslava in the San Lorenzo neighborhood. We also loved that neighborhood. Eslava itself does rent a few apartments in their building: https://espacioeslava.com/en/home-eslava/
We stayed at a hotel nearby, the Eurostars Regina, which we chose since we had a car and they have private garage parking. They have very good pricing that includes the parking on their own website. When we arrived, we parked the car for time we were in the city and used the bus that was easy to go anywhere in the city. We found that neighborhood much more car friendly and quieter and little more local than the pedestrian area of the city.
We stayed at a hotel nearby, the Eurostars Regina, which we chose since we had a car and they have private garage parking. They have very good pricing that includes the parking on their own website. When we arrived, we parked the car for time we were in the city and used the bus that was easy to go anywhere in the city. We found that neighborhood much more car friendly and quieter and little more local than the pedestrian area of the city.
Jul 31st, 2022, 09:29 AM
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One thing that I was concerned about, and now I realize I have nothing to worry about: nice apartments, in good area at reasonable prices. What a relief!
jpie - We're thinking to arrive in Seville on Sat 4/15, a week after Easter 4/9. Is that too close to Easter?
jpie - We're thinking to arrive in Seville on Sat 4/15, a week after Easter 4/9. Is that too close to Easter?
Jul 31st, 2022, 11:35 AM
#10
We were in Seville for 4 nights and I wish we had another day there! We fell in love with the city! It’s not even the sights as the city itself is so beautiful. And if you feel like you need to go elsewhere, you can do a day trip to Jerez. Personally, I’d be happy staying put in Seville - it just was one of the best places to explore. So 5 nights is not too much.
We loved Eslava, too! Wonderful restaurant! And another very popular restaurant, Azotea (near the cathedral). But the tapas pretty much everywhere….oh, sigh….can you tell how much we loved Seville?
I notice you didn’t include Malaga - it’s one of the places we did visit and weren’t immediately smitten, but it’s very popular and has a lot going for it, too. I think we needed more time to really “feel” the city. And it’s on the water as well.
Anyway, in case you want all the details (without photos - this is pre-photo Fodors!), here’s my trip report.
Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
We loved Eslava, too! Wonderful restaurant! And another very popular restaurant, Azotea (near the cathedral). But the tapas pretty much everywhere….oh, sigh….can you tell how much we loved Seville?
I notice you didn’t include Malaga - it’s one of the places we did visit and weren’t immediately smitten, but it’s very popular and has a lot going for it, too. I think we needed more time to really “feel” the city. And it’s on the water as well.
Anyway, in case you want all the details (without photos - this is pre-photo Fodors!), here’s my trip report.
Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Jul 31st, 2022, 12:23 PM
#11
Sounds like a good plan. We weren’t enamored of Toledo at all so 4 nights seems like too much time there but others seem to like it.
We liked Cadiz a lot and would happily return there for a longer stay. It was founded in 1100 BC so you’ll find a lot of history to explore there.
We liked Cadiz a lot and would happily return there for a longer stay. It was founded in 1100 BC so you’ll find a lot of history to explore there.
Last edited by HappyTrvlr; Jul 31st, 2022 at 12:32 PM.
Jul 31st, 2022, 01:07 PM
#12
Toledo isn’t quite as “pretty” as the Andalusian towns but there is SO much to see there! I’d agree that in 2 full days, one can see the sights of Toledo, but with a day trip to Segovia, 4 nights/3 days isn’t too much. We were in Toledo for 2 nights only and I nearly ran my poor husband ragged seeing it all in one full day, so 2 full days for Toledo would be a great improvement. And of all the cathedrals we visited on that trip, the Toledo cathedral was our absolute favorite.
Jul 31st, 2022, 01:36 PM
#13
We also loved Toledo. Spent 2 1/2 days there. Check out Chapters Fourteen to Sixteen. Besides, like progol stated, all there is to see in Toledo, it's also where I fell in love with the Spanish GinTonic. (below) Be sure to take the late afternoon tram to get an incredible view back to Toledo (also below)
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/spain-2015/
(below) Be sure to take the late afternoon tram to get an incredible view back to Toledo (also below) https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/spain-2015/
Jul 31st, 2022, 01:36 PM
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Yes, Malaga...I was considering it at some point, but decided against it. For some reason, it doesn't call me.
We might be able to take a day from the while villages and do a day trip from Ronda, but I'm not sure it's worth it for us. We prefer smaller places, and Malaga looks like a big city. Plus, Progol, you mentioned you needed more time to "feel" it, a day trip will not give us enough time.
Should I reconsider?
Toledo - we have 4 nights, so 3 full days. 2 in Toledo, 1 in Segovia. I think I'll keep it like this.
Cadiz sounds better and better. Should we skip the day trip to Guadix (from Granada) and have a 2 nights stay in Cadiz?
We might be able to take a day from the while villages and do a day trip from Ronda, but I'm not sure it's worth it for us. We prefer smaller places, and Malaga looks like a big city. Plus, Progol, you mentioned you needed more time to "feel" it, a day trip will not give us enough time.
Should I reconsider?
Toledo - we have 4 nights, so 3 full days. 2 in Toledo, 1 in Segovia. I think I'll keep it like this.
Cadiz sounds better and better. Should we skip the day trip to Guadix (from Granada) and have a 2 nights stay in Cadiz?
Last edited by xyz99; Jul 31st, 2022 at 01:39 PM.
Jul 31st, 2022, 01:42 PM
#16
xyz, I think you have a great trip! And, with Cadiz, you’ll have plenty in your itinerary. We weren’t in love with Malaga, though there are others who really like it a lot. But I think it’s a place that also requires more time to get the feel of it, and we were only there for 2 nights. So I’d leave your itinerary as it is and not add one more place.
maitatom, what a fab view of Toledo! Ours isn’t quite as dramatic, but its what we got!😉
maitatom, what a fab view of Toledo! Ours isn’t quite as dramatic, but its what we got!😉
Last edited by progol; Jul 31st, 2022 at 01:47 PM.
Jul 31st, 2022, 03:24 PM
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I would definitely spend 5 nights in Seville. We had 4 nights for Seville (no daytrips included) and I wish we had an extra night. As Progol says, it's not just the amazing sites, it's the beautiful city with its lovely architecture, parks, plazas, fountains, etc. Seville is a city meant for roaming and exploring.
Because of Maitaitom, I started drinking Gin and Tonics again while in Spain. I drank them while in my 20's, then stopped for some reason, and then started up again in my 60's while in Spain and after reading Tom's Spanish trip report.!
Gin and Tonic in Granada
Because of Maitaitom, I started drinking Gin and Tonics again while in Spain.
I drank them while in my 20's, then stopped for some reason, and then started up again in my 60's while in Spain and after reading Tom's Spanish trip report.!Gin and Tonic in Granada
Jul 31st, 2022, 08:08 PM
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A coastal town few mention is Sanlucar de Barrameda. We drove there just for dinner In one of the squares and it was absolutely lovely; lots of people, including babies and seniors, all out together, enjoying food and the weather. We parked near the beach and walked into the city, about 10 or 15 minutes as I recall. I don’t write good trip reports because I never make notes and don’t remember the details. I do know we thought the space and architecture and the huge, wide beach was beautiful, plus interesting history as explorers like Columbus launched some of their expeditions from there. Racing horses on the beach is a big sport. If you have an unplanned evening and it is not too far, you might consider it.
We also thought Cadiz was really beautiful and interesting and wished we had more than a day. The location is gorgeous, the city quite beautiful.
Last edited by Sassafrass; Jul 31st, 2022 at 08:16 PM.
