I'm a travel photographer who normally takes an annual solo trip to Europe. My pictures are sold, licensed, and used as editorials worldwide. (all photos here were taken by me) Unlike the majority of trip reports it's important to remember that while there are certainly many pleasures that come with the job this isn't a vacation for me. That means no tours, museums, operas, shows, etc. This year's trip for May 2018 was a 10 day adventure by car that covered the following areas: Innsbruck, Vipiteno/Sterzing, South Tirol, Stein am Rhein, Bavarian castles, Rothenburg OBT, Wurzburg, Western Czech Republic, and Munich. Special thanks to everyone that helped me in this thread, especially PalenQ and fourfortravel. I couldn't do this without you.

Day 1. I touched down in drizzly Munich around 10 am and picked up my car rental. The plan for day 1 was to get to Innsbruck and photograph anything along the way that made my jaw drop. The traffic was bumper to bumper as the drizzle turned into a steady rain. I was obsessed with the weather prior to the trip and knew the first 4 days would likely be rainy or overcast. There wasn't an awful lot to look but there were a couple of breaks in the rain where I pulled over and began the first of my pictures.



https://flic.kr/p/259UMQE https://flic.kr/p/26wZi34


While there were occasional glimpses of snow peaked mountain tops low hanging rain clouds pretty much blanketed everything completely obstructing any views. My doppler app showed considerable precipitation that seemed to end at the Austrian border. For this reason, and the now steady rain I bypassed Garmisch and headed straight to Innsbruck. Before crossing the border I pulled into a rastplatz. I was very excited to practice my rudimentary German and successfully filled up, purchased a vignette for Austria, and a pretty tasty sandwich. Using as little English as possible is important to me so my interactions inside the rastplatz was a boost. I got to Innsbruck in a little over 3 hours which wasn't terrible given the traffic and weather. After checking in to my hotel I grabbed some gear and set out for Maria-Theresien-Straße which took about 20 minutes. What a vibrant and colorful area full of shops and people exploring. Wonderful architecture with a beautiful mountain backdrop.

https://flic.kr/p/26NWhxf https://flic.kr/p/26NWmbC


It got a little chilly as the sun got lower in the sky. By this time my stomach was rumbling so I went to the nearby Golden Adler where a wienerschnitzel and Zillertal beer was just what the doctor ordered. Blue hour was a huge success afterward. This is the highly coveted time to a photographer in which the twilight sky turns a brilliant shade of blue.



https://flic.kr/p/26NWgUw* **https://flic.kr/p/26NWfnd


The wind howled off the River Inn as the temperature plummeted even lower. By this time my breath was visible and my tripod felt like a frozen ice staff with no gloves on. Burrrrr. By nightfall Innsbruck was completely dead. Shops were closed. Cafe owners secured tables and chairs. Red trams clickety-clacked past me with next to no passengers. With a now runny nose it seemed like a pretty good time to throw in the towel. I saved my feet and took a cab back to my hotel.



Day 2. It was chilly and overcast when I awoke the next morning. After a pretty decent breakfast I jumped in the car and headed south to Tyrol via the Brenner Pass. My goal for today was to capture some Alpine scenery en route to Vipiteno/Sterzing. Then I would head back northward to see some Austrian waterfalls before returning to Innsbruck. The clouds hung around for a good while but there were some breaks where I was able to capture some beautiful scenery.



https://flic.kr/p/JfFi5v https://flic.kr/p/24ynNiH
I arrived in Vipiteno/Stirzing around lunchtime. Wow, what gorgeous surroundings! The sky began to thicken up with rain clouds so I got as much material as quick as possible. Eventually it began to sprinkle so I packed up my camera stuff and went into temporary tourist mode. My efforts to learn a little Italian were a complete waste of time! Despite being in Northern Italy, everyone spoke German. My stateside wife was highly amused by this after a quick Google query to find out why. Overcast skies produce flat lighting in photography which can dull colors and decreases contrast. Having had my fill of what I'd already captured I decided to call it quits. After a fairly mediocre pizza and magnet purchase from a gift shop I began the long walk back to the parking lot. As I reached for my key fob to unlock the car something miraculous happened: THE SUN CAME OUT!!! I COULD SEE MY SHADOW!! I quickly ran back and re-snapped as much as possible. I must have looked like the quintessential American-fool-in-a-rush with my Nikon gear bumbling about. I was happy with the "updated" material and left with a smile.



https://flic.kr/p/26wXWuH https://flic.kr/p/259SXPS


Next up was a quick stop near a town called Innerpflersch/Flere di Dentro. Despite some lovely foothills and waterfalls, the mountains were completely covered by clouds so not worth pursuing I made my way back into Austria and found some really nice scenics that warranted a "pull over". One of my favorites and most memorable is the one below:



https://flic.kr/p/26wXUMe


Wildflowers dotted the lush foothills. The air was so crisp and clean that I didn't want to leave. Eventually I made it over to the Grawa Wasserfall. The volume would have been more impressive after a torrential downpour but still very beautiful nonetheless. Overcast skies are perfect for shooting long exposures of waterfalls so it was a little ironic that the sun peaked out. My knees were a little sore from riding in the car so I decided to skip the Stubai Wasserfall a few miles away and instead return to Innsbruck.



https://flic.kr/p/259SUQA


"Pretty good day of shooting" I thought. Back at Innsbruck I charged my batteries a little bit with a hot bath and laying around my hotel room. I was so exhausted from my Day 2 expenditures that I actually fell asleep. After dinner I poked around Maria-Theresien-Straß and surrounding area some more, checked out the triumphal arch, and then called it a night.







The cab back to my hotel was curiously cheaper than it was the night before despite having the same exact driver from about the same distance. Laying in bed there was a logistical decision that had to be made for tomorrow and I didn't quite know what to do. Tomorrow I would drive straight to Fussen to see the Neuschwanstein castle. That much was a definite. Whether I would continue to Stein Am Rhein or my friends' family house in Stuttgart (where I had a place to stay) was the question. Originally I planned to pick up my friends and take them on part of my photo tour. Just about everything took twice as long as I planned so I was skeptical that I'd have time to socialize while taking pictures.



Day 3. My last morning in Innsbruck was a dreary one. The meat and cheese based breakfasts with bread, hard boiled eggs, and juice were quickly becoming my favorite meal. Great way to fuel up! Heading North towards Germany I couldn't help the feeling that my efforts for Alpine postcard shots were a complete failure. "There's always next time." Driving a stick (manual transmission) on the autobahn turned out to be a real treat for me because everything back home is automatic. Nothing like a relaxing drive through the motherland to center my thoughts and peak my curiosity. My journey towards Füssen was a very scenic one. Several times I was "forced" to pull over and whip out the Nikon. I mean seriously....How beautiful can you get?







Scenes like this definitely slowed the progress to my journey with the frequent stops. I began to wonder If I'd make it to Füssen before lunchtime when it happened. A silver BMW that was behind me for many miles finally passed and then slowed down right in front of me to about a car's length. "STOP, POLIZEI, BITTE FOLGEN >>>>>>>>>>>. STOP, POLICE, PLEASE FOLLOW" flashed in on a digital display on the back of the glass. Surely I wasn't going too fast?? Are these guys really the police?? I had questions but played it cool at the rastplatz. There were 2 of them. Bald. Dressed plainly. After whipping out some questionable looking credentials we spoke briefly in my limited German before switching over to English. "Vut ah you doing een Juh-many?" one asked. I told them I was a travel photographer and pointed to all my camera crap in the front seat before handing over my passport. After an examination they checked my trunk and made note of my suitcase. "Munich" one of them said while nodding. By this time I realized they were in fact legit and probably checking to make sure I wasn't a bad element with drugs or something. They handed me back my passport and told me to enjoy my trip. One of them then went inside the rastplatz to use the bathroom. I had to go as well but my nerves were shot and wanted to make up for lost time.



Due to the delay I opted out of lunch and instead snacked on this big bag of trail mix I got from Day 1. I also headed straight for Schwangau where the castle was located. My weather app now revealed that I missed my window of opportunity for partly cloudy and that grey skies would indeed be waiting for me when I arrived (yay!). It wouldn't matter honestly. My heart must've skipped a few beats the first time I laid eyes on Schloß Neuschwanstein perched up on that hill. I remember seeing it on the back wall of a kitschy German restaurant when I was in college. Since that day it was added to my bucket list. As I looked for a place to park I couldn't help noticing the hordes of tourists walking amongst horse drawn carriages and wondering what it must be like during peak season.





Schwangau was a colorful little village whose primary purpose appeared to be catering to tourists. In fact, the architecture of some of the buildings was almost "Disney like." After parking I secured a bus ticket up the hill where the castle was at. Many people walked but as we snaked our way up I was grateful to have saved my legs (and time). I got off at the Marienbrucke (Mary's Bridge) stop and waited until it was my turn to reach the bridge with a clear shot of the castle. There was an enormous group of Chinese tourists there taking selfies, admiring the view, etc. As a result the bridge vibrated and rocked in a way that kind of unnerved me. I basically got what I needed and then got out. The lighting and color was dulled due to the weather so I used Photoshop liberally when I got home. Voila!







This matters because destination scenics almost always look better in good weather. (There's a reason Caribbean brochures don't showcase exotic beaches in the rain.) I thought I'd make that clear for those wondering what my obsession with the weather was (that I have no control over.) I took exactly one picture of the nearby Schloß Hohenschwangau as I made my way back to the parking lot. I wasn't terribly interested and judging from the direction pedestrians were headed, I wasn't alone. After a quick fill up and another rastplatz sandwich I set a route for Stein Am Rhein with plans to meet up with my friend and her family later that evening. This was about the time my trip began to take a turn for the worse. The drive was slated to take about 3 hours according to my Garmin. After about 2 hours I encountered a roundabout on route 31 that had the exit I needed crossed out. It appeared that this highway was closed due to construction. Neither my Garmin nor Google Maps were able to help me around it. The directions kept leading me towards route 31 or towards that roundabout. I tried driving in different directions hoping that my navigation would take me a different route but that didn't work. I was basically stuck in this town for about an hour. At a nearby grocery store I walked up to the youngest clerk I could find in hopes that he'd speak English (and he did). He told me to follow a certain road a for a few miles and then turn with the rest of the trucks. I did exactly that and before long I was back on the right path. What I wouldn't give to be able to thank that young man today. (I ended up losing the grocery store receipt that he drew me a map on)



I hit some pretty good traffic when it began to rain. My nerves were jacked. Despite being tired and hungry getting to my destination was priority. I yawned as I crossed the border into Switzerland. With mental and physical fatigue eating me alive I nearly hit an old lady with my car at a gas station parking lot. I sat inside and attempted to reassess my plans. I cancelled with my friend for that night and instead booked a hotel. This took some weight off of me as I wasn't under any pressure to be anywhere at a certain time. I checked in at a gorgeous old world hotel called Landgasthof Hirschen and headed back out to see some of Stein Am Rhein. Just before arriving I pulled over by the water's edge to grab a few pictures. I sat my stuff on a bench and observed an older couple admiring the view from another bench a bit farther way.







After that I drove a short distance and parked in a mostly empty lot just outside of the Old Town. Stein Am Rhein is known for its painted buildings as well as its beautiful location on the Rhein river. After a few pictures I went to change lenses and realized I didn't have my camera bag with me. I thought for a minute...."probably in the car". I walked back to the parking lot and it wasn't there. "hmm.....probably left it back in the hotel room." As I walked back towards Old Town I had some doubts. I could've sworn I grabbed it before leaving. So if it wasn't in the car, and it wasn't in the room, then where? That camera bag had everything: 2 lenses, all of my memory cards, all of the batteries, charger, spare credit card and ID. Suddenly it hit me. "Back at the bench near the water's edge!!!!!". Completely freaking out I ran back to the car and attempted to desperately tried to find the same spot I pulled over. Eventually I found it and there on the bench was my camera bag. The old couple sat quietly on their bench as a woman walked a dog. It was a defining moment for me. My body was under an enormous amount of stress and craved rest which I repeatedly denied. Fatigue had affected my judgement in a way that my shots were hurried/rushed, I almost hit someone, and the entire trip was nearly wiped out. I sat on that bench for a bit and took inventory of the near disaster I was spared. Memory cards and batteries for a Nikon D700 were not something you could pick up at a stateside electronics store, let alone a Swiss Village. My expensive lenses would've been even more difficult to replace. From now on I decided to slow it down and after careful consideration abandoned plans to stay with friends completely.



I explored the historic center and marveled at its beauty. The lighting was flat, of course, but the next day would be sunny so I wasn't terribly concerned with quality photos. The tourists here were considerably older here than in Innsbruck. Definitely less families. Not a bad thing, of course, just an observation. I passed a chocolate shop but would save those shenanigans for the next day.







As the daylight began to fade I decided I was going to reward myself with an expensive quality meal. Burg Hohenklingen is a medieval castle which had been turned into a museum and restaurant by its owners. The winding drive up the cliff it was perched on gave me some serious anxiety. The castle was spectacular to walk through with sweeping views over the town below. The very friendly owner chatted me up after ordering, made beer recommendations, and showed me where I'd get the best shots of the town below. I ordered a delicious Beef Stroganoff with sauteed veggies and spaetzle. My first Swiss dining experience left me wanting more.



https://flic.kr/p/26wXTdc https://flic.kr/p/26NWxab


After lingering over a couple of beers I drove back down as it started to really cloud up again. There was a spot I had picked out by the river for a long exposure but it was a bit too early and light out. As it got dark it started raining. The sound of the rain drops hitting the water.....the soft quacking noises of ducks....the creaking of a small boat nearby, and the occasional church bell in the distance was all very soothing. I soaked it all in. That's the castle I ate at up top by the way.....



https://flic.kr/p/26wXNkr


I really needed this. After a few exposures I closed up shop and went straight to bed back at the hotel. Next on the agenda was a morning reshoot under sunny skies followed by a trio of castles before ending in Rothenburg OBT. More to come...

Thank you. There are times when grey skies set a really menacing tone. Not always bad!

What an enjoyable read, and looking forward to the rest. While I know there are those who prefer train travel (swandav, I'm thinking of you in a most friendly way ), I have frame-worthy snaps that were only possible because I exclaimed, "So pretty!" and DH pulled the car to the side of the road so that I could hop out and set the shoot.

Wow, fourfortravel! Thank you for thinking of me ..��

But it's not exactly that I "prefer" train travel; it is rather that I prefer to help preserve nature and the environment.

s

I truly appreciate your position and that is why I gave you a friendly shout-out. We strive to avoid driving whenever possible; this written, we do love our alpine scenery (Tirol is our favorite state in Austria) and the opportunity to drop in at a local Gasthof while we are on a tour. Sometimes that just doesn't happen when one is sitting on a train was all I meant with my post.

This is looking wonderful; thank you for posting. Fabulous photos, of course. Can't wait to spend more time looking at them.

What a truly wonderful trip report! I am enjoying your words and of course your photographs are stunning. I look forward to your next installment.

Day 4. So a lengthy Day 4 awaits, chock full of mishaps and blunders! Slept in a little later than I wanted to but my body definitely needed the rest. After a hearty breakfast punctuated by fresh meats and cheeses I made the short drive to Stein Am Rhein's Old Town. The photos were a big improvement day over day! Such a difference a little sunlight makes.

https://flic.kr/p/26NWzkJ https://flic.kr/p/RqDMhR
No matter the country I love watching locals start their mornings. Waiters setting up chairs at outdoor cafes. Shopkeepers sweeping. Old folks drinking coffee while reading the paper...maybe playing a game of chess. Water dripping into a fountain. It was all here. After a productive yet brief shoot I popped into a gift shop and went to town on some Swiss chocolate. The wife certainly earned some by watching 2 toddlers by herself! The jury is still out whether Belgian or Swiss chocolate is my favorite but there was definitely some bias on this trip.

https://flic.kr/p/RqDP9r
Up next was 3 consecutive castles that would take me through the German states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. Despite being relatively close together on a map, at least by American standards, I made the all too common mistake of underestimating the travel time. The drive was very scenic with lush green meadows dotted with countless yellow wildflowers. Of course there were plenty of things that required me to pull the car over and pop off a few snaps like this breathtaking castle perched up high.

https://flic.kr/p/26P3i4J https://flic.kr/p/26P3kpW
I simply don't understand how one is to focus solely on the road in situations like these. It's just too much to ask someone. After a couple of hours I arrived in the town of Sigmaringen. Before heading to the river bank where the castle was at I parked in the city center punctuated by steeples and spires and milled around at my new surroundings. What a charming area bustling with shoppers and of course the lunch crowd. A nearby restaurant featuring doner kebabs looked and smelled tempting but I'd save that first experience for another time.


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After parking I walked a short distance past a small park where I encountered a curious, yet amusing sight. A pot belly old man sat on a bench with a much younger, and much more attractive girlfriend. She was sprawled out on the bench with her head in his lap. It was my first real reminder that I was in Europe again as far as public displays of affection go. In cities I've traveled to like Paris and Brussels full grown adults made out with each other like teenagers do in the US, mainly in central squares and parks. You just don't see that much back in the states. On our a trip to Madrid my wife and I, surrounded by "lovers", joked that we needed to step up our game. Funny memories. The pictures of Sigmaringen castle turned out pretty good despite the sun's location. You normally want the sun behind you but clouds were out and I was grateful for that. A little tweaking in photoshop eliminated the harsh shadows.

https://flic.kr/p/KLFa9d https://flic.kr/p/26P3f3U
My stomach was pretty upset with me for passing on the doner kebab place so I picked up a French style sandwich w/ egg, and several meats as I filled up the gas tank. Back on the road again.The weather was amazing. Partly cloudy, a slight breeze, and 70°F. There were plenty of opportunities to pull over and take in all of the beauty the region had to offer. I still couldn't get over the wildflowers and how I had to motivate myself to get back in the car after each stop. The route was undulating and took me around all sorts of interesting curves and through gentle hills. This leg of the trip took me through some very small villages that seemed to be little more than a few houses sprinkled on both sides of a 1 lane highway. In fact, at times it seemed like I was driving along an extended driveway through a bunch of backyards. I saw dogs panting happily on porches. A man tinkering around under the hood of an older car. Small children running around barefoot. I was definitely grateful to have an intimate peak at life in the countryside.


https://flic.kr/p/KLF8mW https://flic.kr/p/2fcsSLr
Next up was Schloß Hohenzollern, a breathtakingly beautiful castle viewed from a vantage point called the Zeller Horn. It wasn't immediately clear to me on Google Earth if the road that led to the Zeller Horn was for vehicles or hikers. The only thing I was certain of was that it was, in fact, a road of some kind. With limited information about this I set out for the Berghotel Zollersteighof which was a nearby hotel where I assumed I would park. Upon arrival, however, I noticed that the parking lot was connected to a well paved road so I continued along. There were a couple of signs in German (I couldn't translate) before breaking left into the woods at a fork in the road. As the road narrowed considerably I encountered hikers that were walking in the same direction. Some of them did a double take as I crept past. As I got closer to my destination it dawned on me that vehicles were probably not permitted on this road; or should I say "paved walking path". Well, the view from the top was breathtaking as expected. There was a small group of people up there admiring their surroundings including what appeared to be a father and his 2 sons.

https://flic.kr/p/26P36V1 https://flic.kr/p/27QaPpo
Despite being one of them, I couldn't help feeling like an intruder with my car parked 20 feet away. Instead of lingering around I quickly shot what I came for, packed up the camera and tripod, and got inside my rental. As I began to leave a large group (20 or so) of mostly elderly hikers emerged from the woods. Jaws dropped in amazement as their eyes locked onto the castle but those expressions melted upon seeing me in the car. Confused looks of bewilderment. I think the consensus was "What the hell is that guy doing up here with a car???" Completely humiliated, I slowly drove back down the path with my tail tucked between my legs. Ashamed...Embarrassed....Red faced... I inched past dozens of people against the grain, some who had to press themselves against trees to allow me through. I avoided eye contact the best I could but couldn't help cracking a stupid grin when confronted with the ubiquitous look of shock. Sure enough, just before exiting through the hotel parking lot there was the damn sign. Next to narrowly losing my camera bag in Switzerland this was definitely the blunder of the trip thus far.

One culture shock I experienced was the concept of outdoor rest stops, particularly in rural Germany. Often times it would consist of nothing more than some bushes, boulders, or a few trees where travelers would relieve themselves. One could see where the best spots for privacy were by observing the toilet paper on the ground. The odor was overpowering to my accustomed schnoz at first, but as they say...."when in Rome..." I got used to it after a while.

It was only about a 40 minute drive to the last of 3 castles; Schloß Lichtenstein. The parking area and grounds were a lot bigger than I expected so I wasted about 30 minutes or so going the wrong way. I searched all over for the popular vantage point before finally asking an English speaking woman who worked there. I showed her a picture on my phone and asked "Where can I find this vantage point?" Without missing a beat and unable to keep a straight face her reply was "Google!". haha lady. Well played. I had to buy a ticket to enter the portion of the castle I was after. Admission was reasonable and the grounds were pretty spectacular.

https://flic.kr/p/26P35SQ https://flic.kr/p/2e6ASah


https://flic.kr/p/27UCfXa https://flic.kr/p/27UCgVx
The "money shots" of the castle came out OK at best. It was a little too late in the afternoon so I was literally shooting into the shadows. Morning time would have been better. Next time next time. Final destination was Rothenburg Ob der Tauber. Driving along the autobahn through Bavaria is something I recommend to anybody that just LOVES road trips. Plenty of beautiful countryside dotted with wind farms in the distance. More wildflowers. It was endless really. Getting yourself killed on the autobahn seemed like an easy task if you forgot to check your mirror before merging left. Many times I encountered BMWs screaming past me at breakneck speeds.



https://flic.kr/p/KLFbb3 https://flic.kr/p/T4kcNU
Originally I thought of renting one because "hey, it's Germany right?" In the end, however, I think I made the right decision, opting for a conservative crossover. In hindsight I would have rented something even smaller and quicker but the original plan was to travel with my friends' family. This made parking on the street an occasional irritant. I had many questions in my curious heart on the autobahn. Why don't we zipper-merge like here in the US? Why so many BMW wagons? (Those were about as common in the US as civil political debates on Facebook.) Why are German radio stations obsessed with Phil Collins? Where in the Sam hell are all the Mercedes Benzs???! I had questions, oh yes....Your American friend, photographer, and humble narrator had questions.

It was late afternoon when I got into Rothenburg. I had, roughly, a good 3 hours of daylight before my tripod was necessary. What a medieval gem! Historical architecture, old world charm, and postcard shots awaiting every corner. The whole town was surrounded by a wall which made it easy to imagine life in the middle ages. My visit happened to coincide with a very fortunate coincidence: an annual medieval festival. There were hordes of costumed participants. Bands played music surrounded by tourists. Crowds gathered to sing traditional folk songs of a long past period.

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Now I'm not saying I'm the Charlie Brown of travel photography or anything,but my luck is usually at the other end of the spectrum. In Montreal I missed out on one of the most vibrant sunsets over the skyline because I got off one bus stop too early. In Prague incorrect camera settings ruined a beautiful blue hour overlooking the castle across the river. I didn't find out until I got home of course. I forgot my tripod after walking nearly 2 miles in London. The list goes on, but today felt like I won the lottery.

I planned on eating dinner until blue hour was over but the tempting aromas around me warranted an executive decision. I ordered a glass of beer opting out of the mass (liter) so I could focus on steady photos afterward. My meal consisted of a very tasty schweinshaxe (roast pork knuckle) with red cabbage and dumplings. "Ah, the spoils of Bavaria!" Crispy outside, tender and juicy inside. I tried (in vain) to recreate this back home but local butchers are either unable or uninterested in selling a ham hock large enough. My waiter was very friendly but a bit overly chatty.

https://flic.kr/p/2fcyaeB https://flic.kr/p/27UCbjT
Evening had come and with it blue hour. The crowds began to slowly die off. Gradually, the folk music stopped. German speaking couples in alleys..occasional laughter. Gorgeous half timbered buildings. The night air slowly turned chilly but not in a "dammit where's my coat" kind of way. What a magical place to be at night with plenty of beautiful scenes to capture. As you could imagine my camera was working overtime.

https://flic.kr/p/27UCaY2 https://flic.kr/p/259X8rE
Wandering around Rothenburg at night was a welcome relief having spent most of the day in a car but the cobblestones had taken their toll on my feet. I spent a few more hours here until checking into my hotel shortly before midnight. Finding the hotel itself was a bit of a chore because it was not well marked and parking my car was even more stressful. The back lot was completely full so I had to park in the rear, partially obstructing a very small vehicle. I chatted with the owner over where it was legit or not and she shrugged and guessed that the tiny car should be able to squeeze past my rental and the wall. A night club across the street blasted very loud music (almost all former top 20 American hits) until about 1am. To this day when I think about that hotel I'll always remember "I'm gonna be" by the Proclaimers at concert-like decibels. It's kind of funny because there didn't appear to be any visible guests there or on the streets. OK that's it for now. Hope you’re enjoying the journey so far. Würzburg, Bamberg, and the Czech Republic await.

Thank you. So much was unexpected. Gorgeous country to drive through.

Day 5. I was relieved to see the small car from last night successfully squeezed past my rental. Despite getting to bed well after midnight, I got a surprisingly full night of sleep. My hotel was close enough to Rothenburg's Old Town so I made the 10 minute walk after breakfast. The medieval festivities were alive and well. Ladies braiding costumed little girls' hair. Bratwursts roasting on open flames. Folk tunes played on wooden flute-like instruments could be heard all over. There was more singing, dancing, plenty of people watching. Great stuff! I happily snapped away.

https://flic.kr/p/26P2sPs https://flic.kr/p/259WNKG
It was sunny and beautiful but for some reason I had a persistent runny nose along with itchy eyes and a scratchy throat. I was so busy with what was going on that I didn't realized I was having symptoms at all. That's when it hit me: "It's pollen season here in Bavaria" Having had more of my fair share of the early April "yellow funk" back in North Carolina, I wasn't about to let these same symptoms spoil my trip here. The building below with the blue half-timbered framing was actually an extremely convenient pharmacy. After speaking briefly to the pharmacist on duty I was given eye drops and a nasal spray that seemed to work wonders.

https://flic.kr/p/27QaovL

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There were lots of souvenir shops selling gorgeous beer steins, mugs, and glasses. I couldn't resist and ended up grabbing one along with a singing teddy bear for my son, a figurine doll for my little girl, and a magnet for our fridge. These pedestrian only streets featured colorful storefronts with flower boxes and ornamental signs. One cafe owner happily handed out samples of artisan bread to passing tourists. He smiled with his eyes and seemed to take great satisfaction in their reactions despite the fact hardly anyone stopped inside. Maybe that was the point the whole time.

https://flic.kr/p/27QahLE
https://flic.kr/p/26NZrg1
I had a very pleasant morning wandering around this well preserved medieval city. After a tasty Doner Kebab lunch It was back to the car. I've seen Rothenburg mentioned in "tourist traps to avoid in Germany" discussions. Complaints about the neverending swarms of tourists that crowd the narrow streets. Read numerous times that there are far more authentic experiences in Bavaria than this Disneyesque village....after forming my own conclusion, I'd say I largely disagreed and can't wait to return. I'd love to walk through the walls and see more of the towers next time.

The drive from Rothenburg to Würzburg was less than an hour. Along the way I was afforded with some beautiful views of wind farms. Other than that there wasn't much else to look at besides the BMW wagons that screamed past you at neck breaking speeds.

https://flic.kr/p/2efx1z7
https://flic.kr/p/KLFbb3
On the way in I got a glimpse of the magnificent Würzburg Residence; a baroque palace commissioned by the Prince Bishop of Würzburg in 1744. I smiled to myself at the stop light and thought "I'll see you a little later".

https://flic.kr/p/24JUaQF
My accomodation in Würzburg was a bit more upscale than any of my other bookings, almost by double. Occasionally I'll splurge a little bit and spoil myself for a night opting out of the 3 star hotels that normally dominate my expense reports. This one had a large soft bed, a parking deck nearby, and an impressive breakfast. Initially I thought the last 2 were included but found out otherwise upon checkout. Lo and behold, there it was in black in white on my confirmation email. Reading really is fundamental.

https://flic.kr/p/Tde3Ro
After settling in and checking out the map I headed back out. An African festival was just wrapping up which sent thousands of people spilling into the streets. A few well liquored youngsters nearly avoided getting hit by the trams that criss crossed through the city center.

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There was definitely a younger vibe here and a little more diversity. I knew ahead of time this was a college town but the seniors, whose numbers were so ubiquitous elsewhere, were largely absent. Millennials. A large Muslim family with shopping bags. Hipsters on skateboards. Lots of bikes. A beautiful young mother with young children. Teenagers laughing in small groups while smoking. That reminds me: the smoking wasn't too bad here in Germany; certainly not like London or Paris where walking outside meant walking smack into a foul cloud of cigarette smoke.

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The weather was really nice which meant plenty of people outside in beer gardens. There was plenty to observe while exploring the city center. Beautiful churches from street level. Later on I'd be observing their spires from a stunning vantage point. Eventually I made my way towards the Würzburg Residence. By this time it was starting to get pretty hot outside and it felt like the heat was radiating up through the pavement. Those who were smart enough to dress in layers were wearing their jackets around their waists with sleeves rolled up. I passed a gelato stand that stopped me in my tracks but the line was a little too long.

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The exterior of the Palace was absolutely beautiful. I would've loved to take off my photographer hat and go inside but that's the price of my job. Click click click click and then move on. Get what you need and get out. I could feel my blood sugar dropping so I retreated back to my hotel room for a snack, mini bar soda, quick shower, and 40 minute nap. I was awoken by church bells in the distance, which was fortunate because I could've easily slept longer.

I drove a short distance away, crossing the River Main somewhere beneath the Marienburg Fortress. The air had cooled as late afternoon began to slowly fade. I had a quick dinner at a nearby restaurant called MC Doner. The 12 year old in me couldn't help thinking I was Ronald McDoner eating at the McDoner House. Really tasty food and cheap too. I then walked over to the All Saints Bridge where endless photo ops presented themselves. Attractive, young faces strolling about with Franconian wine in hand. The setting sun casted a warm orange glow on everything and everyone as it got lower in the sky. Smiling couples walked hand in hand while a gentle breeze came off the river. I'll tell you, that was a very intimate peak at life here and I was more than happy to be a piece of furniture in the room.

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A nearby cafe appeared to be the source of this wine everyone had. I thought about going inside but remembered I was an hour away from the most anticipated shoot of the entire trip. Translation: I needed to be razor sharp and wine may have been counterintuitive. I lingered around on a bench opposite the bridge and shot some clean candid photos with my 400mm zoom lens. "Places and faces" is my unofficial motto for travel photography. When I first got started there was an overwhelming emphasis on architecture but when I got home, I realized they were just a bunch of buildings. The key to great cityscapes and destination scenics is to make your viewer want to be there. It's difficult to do this without photos of people. As it began to darken I made the trip up countless stairs to the courtyard of the Marienburg Fortress.

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When I got to the top I encountered a young couple with their camera gear and tripods set up. They were waiting for blue hour just like me. The wife was bubbly, attractive, and chatty asking me questions about the US, my travels, and photography in general. Her husband seemed to ignore us both, snapping up endless photos with very expensive gear. I thought it was a little strange before realizing he didn't speak any English. As it got dark a small group of college aged males came over and had a brief conversation with them (in German) while pointing to the gate. They seemed to be negotiating something back and forth before they eventually left. The wife told me they worked for the fortress and informed us they had to close. Her husband talked them into letting us stay as long as we latched the gate behind us on the way out. This turned out to be extremely fortunate because I wouldn't have been able to locate a similar vantage point on such short notice.

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The photos turned out to be a huge success. The church steeples, spires, and towers pierced the blue night sky as the sound of shutter clicks fired off. Würzburg kind of reminded me a bit of a "mini Prague" of sorts, but with its own distinct flavor. Eventually I had my fill and after some time reviewing the files at 100% I was satisfied with the material. I thanked them both for the single serving of friendship and headed back down the stairs to grab a few more shots of the bridge.

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It was Saturday night and the night crowd was definitely out for a little fun. By this time, however, I was pretty exhausted and decided to throw in the towel. Back at the room I tried a beer and some wine in the mini fridge which turned out to be complimentary before crashing for the night. The Czech Republic would be next with a stop in Bamberg. More to come...

I am still enjoying your trip report! Please keep your posts coming!

Your images are fantastic! Thanks for sharing

Thank you all. A very busy workload keeps me from posting that often but I'm happy to post what I can as long as you're enjoying the ride.

Day 6. A great night's rest at the Best Western Premier Rebstock and an equally exceptional breakfast. Back in the states, a Best Western is somewhere in the neighborhood of a Holiday Inn so I was a bit surprised to find such opulent interior decor, marble columns, and fine dining. Very nice hotel and I wondered if it was something else prior. Upon checkout I shared my impression with the young lady at the front desk. To my angst, it was revealed that the goodies I abandoned in the mini fridge were actually free afterall. As I was walking away I commented "...and a great breakfast too". A blip of confusion came over her as she tapped away while asking "oh, you had breakfast?" to which I replied "Yes". "Oh. We forgot to charge you for it! That will be 21 euros please!" I drove a short distance to the Residenz Palace which would be my last stop before continuing on. I wanted some nice morning shots of the back. After grabbing a parking spot along the road, the legality of which I cannot vouch for, I jogged along the wall and came in through and entrance in the back. What a beautiful work of art this place was. I've seen several vantage points of the Würzburg Residence but this one was my favorite. The gardens were very tranquil and relaxing. Most of the time the only sounds to be heard were the pebbles being kicked along foot paths or the soft buzzing of a nearby bee. There were vibrant spring flowers blooming which always makes a nice addition to an otherwise pedestrian composition.

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It was a bit cloudy to begin with but the sun came out and warmed everything up nicely. Strolling through the gardens was a pleasant way to spend the morning and what I would've given to be holding a non-Starbuck's cup of coffee. As previously stated, the tendency is to get what you need and move on. When finding oneself in such peaceful and beautiful surroundings, however, I really had to talk myself into actually leaving. This was made a little easier once I remembered my rental car may have been parked in a ticketed zone.

https://flic.kr/p/26P1YiE
At first I couldn't find the exit out but after some wandering towards the rear of the Residenz I found it. On the way back I encountered something odd along the wall. It was a small billboard advertising beverages. I don't remember seeing many (if any) of these prior to this one, which was a nice change from what I'm used to back home.

https://flic.kr/p/26P1Uww
All of these little "differences" add up over time and make for a unique experience. The trip from Wurzburg to Bamberg was a little over an hour taking me past small villages and Franconian vineyards. One regret that still lingers inside me a little bit was failing to sample a glass of wine while I was on the bridge. At least I got a few sips in thanks to the sample bottle in my hotel room. (It was very clearly marked "Complimentary")

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Traffic was noticeably lighter with far less speed demons torching past me on the left. The fact it was Sunday could've played a big role in that, not to mention I wasn't driving on the autobahn. There weren't as many trucks on this route either, which was equally as pleasing.

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I arrived in an unexpectedly charming city center and parked at a very crowded underground garage. My reason for stopping in Bamberg was twofold: break up the trip to the Czech Republic and grab some lunch. The colorful Altes Rathaus was a delight to behold. I'd seen pictures of it back home but was mistakenly led to believe it was somewhere near the Belgian border. I found out otherwise a few days before my trip and decided to make it a stop on route to Karlovy Vary. There it sits perched in the middle of a bridge just above the Regnitz River.

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This flamboyant eye magnet really seemed to be the centerpiece of tourism here. Despite a little pollen the weather was absolutely fantastic. Comfortably warm with just a slight breeze. The crowds were at a minimum as well. You could easily hear the babbling river below over conversations and the occasional laughter. Outdoor cafes were very popular on a day like today. No matter the destination al fresco dining is something I love to shoot. There's just something so satisfying about having a wonderful meal outdoors. There was the soft sounds of utensils hitting plates, the clanking of empty beer bottles as they go into recycle bins, and the aromas of many different dishes. By this time my stomach was trying to tell me something: "Time for lunch fella."

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Despite plans to indulge in yet another tasty doner kebab, I ultimately succumbed to the unmistakable aroma of marinara at Casa Italia. It was fairly empty inside so the owner and I made quite a bit of small talk. It turns out he was a budding photographer himself, so I gave him some tips and encouraged him to keep shooting. My lasagna didn't disappoint and went well with a Peroni. After lunch I wander around a little bit more before heading back to the parking garage.

https://flic.kr/p/Ti43o9
I could see that the spires of the Bamberg Cathedral contained some level of scaffolding so I didn't bother heading that way. Photoshop and patience can remove it but I had already stayed a little longer than I planned and still had some stops before arriving at my destination; Karlovy Vary.

https://flic.kr/p/24PAuMK
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Bamberg was definitely a place I could spend a lot more time. I loved everything from the laid back vibe to the mixture of medieval and baroque architecture. Upon returning home I was bummed to have stumbled onto a few scenic spots (courtesy of Google Earth) I missed, some only mere meters away from where I was. That's not such a bad thing, however because it gives you a reason to return. Before long I was outside of Bamberg's charming city center and back on the clock.

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The traffic was still pretty thin, being Sunday and all, so plenty of time to enjoy the open road and ingest more Phil Collins on the radio. The scenery as I made my way West was nothing short of spectacular. I was rewarded with sweeping views of distant meadows, endless fields of yellow flowers, and blue sky as far as the eye could see. Some of the scenes resembled something you'd expect to in a good Windows desktop wallpaper or high def screen saver for a TV.

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As I inched my way towards the Czech border I reviewed the 3 stops I had planned in my head: the cities of Cheb, Sokolov, and Loket. All 3 were on the way and fairly close to one another. Each location would take roughly 20 - 30 minutes and provide gorgeous stock of 2 charming city squares and a castle. After about an hour of driving I saw an all too familiar sign that let me know trouble was ahead. Oh yes, the dreaded "access denied, the exit you need is kaput" sign.

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Are you kidding me? I needed this like I needed a bottomless clown at my kid's birthday party. I was making such good time and things were going so well I fooled myself into thinking that Google Maps would lead me out of harm's way. Surely I'd be able to hop on a parallel highway if mine really did end. You'd think I learned my lesson near Switzerland. After driving through a city or two and around some curvy foothills my fate finally awaited and slapped me right in the face.

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Profanities were shouted and I can't tell you exactly how hard I slapped the steering wheel but my hand was pretty sore for the rest of the day. Frustration was an understatement. Frustrated with my situation and my decision to press on and let the navigation find me an alternate route. There it was in Google Maps but not visible until one zoomed in a good distance. After backtracking all of 30 minutes or so I tinkered around with my car's built in navigation system. After switching from German to English I saw that I was able to re-route by choosing to avoid certain roads; in my case federal highway 303. I wish I had known about this as it worked like a charm. As I inched closer to the border I stopped for gas and a vignette. The young girl who worked there didn't speak English but I was still able to get by with very limited Czech and German.

https://flic.kr/p/26NYp1G
Crossing the border was easier than like walking into the next room in your house. Piece of cake. Once that happened, however, there was a stark and undeniable contrast between one the wealthiest countries in the EU and my new host country. The scenery changed dramatically. Tall weeds grew alongside the highway and through crumbling pavement. The beautiful valleys and wind turbines had suddenly vanished and were replaced by thick brush on both sides of the road. BMWs were replaced by tiny vehicles, older cars with exhaust problems, and freight trucks with Polish, and sometimes Cyrillic writing on them. There were rusted signs and businesses featuring crude hand painted lettering along my route. As I came into Cheb proper peeled paint wasn't hard to spot along with unmistakably Soviet-era apartment blocks.

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Please don't mistake my observations for prejudice by any means. The Czech Republic is one of my favorites and come September 2019 will be my most traveled to country on the planet. (3 times) I don't have a problem with the aforementioned features per se, but they do exist. Those familiar with Prague, but not the rest of the Czech Republic, may know very little about what it's like beyond the boundaries of the enchanting Capital city. I was one of them. My initial impression was that it had its gritty spots and its beautiful ones, much like Lisbon Portugal. It's my job as a travel photographer to showcase the latter. Once I got to George of Podebrady square it was clear which side of the spectrum I was on.

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What a gem! From the smiling faces that walked past to the colorful buildings this was definitely a square with a pulse. Flanking the square was the gorgeous Church of St. Nicolas. It's twin towers were reminiscent of the countless Gothic masterpieces you find in Prague and beyond.

https://flic.kr/p/2e3y1EZ https://flic.kr/p/2ekvfHS
There was no shortage of material here. One of my favorite things to photograph in Europe is a gorgeous square and The Czech Republic is no slouch in this department. You're normally afforded great people watching, wonderful architecture, outdoor cafes, and the like. These are the kinds of destination scenics that make a person say "I want to go there". Cheb definitely delivered what I was going for and despite a desire to linger it was time to press on.

https://flic.kr/p/2frs3xZ https://flic.kr/p/2e3xrti
A short drive away I arrived at my next destination, Sokolov. Aside from a very pretty square, there wasn't much. Despite the pleasant weather there were very few people out. There were stares that ranged from curious to suspicious as I walked along shooting, especially from one of the outdoor restaurants. One guy wearing ripped jean shorts appeared to be under the influence of drugs babbling to himself. I contemplated an early dinner here but given the sterile vibe, I got what I needed and quickly got out.

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The last stop before Karlovy Vary was the town of Loket for it's fantastic castle. Like Bamberg, I was fortunate enough to find this mere days before my trip. After parking I pulled out my trusty maps app and walked towards the locations I pin pointed back home. There was a steady flow of tourism leading in and out of the castle. Definitely less families as the majority of visitors appeared to be senior travelers. As for the castle grounds themselves, what an absolute beauty! On a longer stay I'd definitely want to experience more than just the exterior.

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A gentle breeze kicked up off the Ohře River down below. The only sounds were the rustling of leaves in the trees. A beautiful girl and her man wave to me as they take in a leisurely stroll along the bank. I waved back with a big stupid grin, of course. As I processed all of this it took the jury less than an hour to reach a verdict: I really liked it here.

https://flic.kr/p/24PUZxK
Long shadows reminded me that It was late afternoon and the sun would be gone within a few short hours. That basically meant that my being here was cutting into what little shooting time I had at my final destination. Plans for different angles of the castle were scrapped as I trotted back to the car. It was only a 20 minute drive to the spa town of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad); one that took me through countless twists and turns...up and down.... in and around hills. I caught the magnificent Russian Orthodox Church of Saints Peter and Paul on my way in. The onion domes were gorgeous!

https://flic.kr/p/2fmPEf9
Eventually I reach Hotel Embassy where I was lucky enough to secure one of 3 parking spaces directly in front of the hotel. Anyone that's been here knows that parking is definitely at a premium. After check in and throwing my luggage into the room I dart back out to grab what I can before sunset.

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What a picturesque jewel of a city uniquely nestled within the rolling hills of Bohemia. The architecture was over the top beautiful featuring soft pastel colored buildings that were often reflected in the canal. It was easy to see why visitors pour so many tourism dollars into this mecca of rest and relaxation.

https://flic.kr/p/2e3zFmp
It didn't take long before I started to absorb the flavors of Karlovy Vary, so to speak. One of my most obvious observations was that there was some serious money here. Lots of it. I remember seeing at least one Lamborghini along with a number of expensive sports cars. Second, I encountered a good number of interesting couples that both turned my head and piqued my interest... more specifically, couples with huge differences in age. You've got bald-headed pot bellies walking hand in hand with much younger, well pampered, Eastern European goddesses. "Interesting! Interesting! I see what's going on!........or do I?" Third, I couldn't help noticing all of the Cyrillic, mostly in advertisements, menus, and tourist brochures. I got a taste of this in Prague but it seemed to flourish here in Karlovy Vary. There were definitely traces of the Soviets' occupation of Czechoslovakia from the Stalinist tower blocks to the matryoshka dolls in souvenir shops. The impression I got, however, was that despite the occupation Russian tourism was highly valued here.

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The daylight I so highly coveted was generous and seemed to last much longer than I bargained for. This was coupled by the fact that I covered a wide area in a small amount of time. I enjoyed watching people stroll along the canals while admiring the views bathed in gold. I detected French, Arabic, German, Italian, Russian, and many other languages that told me this wasn't just some Czech playground, but a Bohemian oasis with global appeal.

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Finally the sun began to slip behind the buildings as the temperature started to drop. My feet had absolutely had it and my stomach was running on an empty tank. After wandering through a pedestrian zone I made my way towards Becherplatz Pivovar Karel IV.

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I had this restaurant and brewery picked out well ahead of time. I sat at the bar where a nice waiter fixed me up with a platter I've been anticipating about for months. The Bohemian platter was designed for 2 people and featured smoked meats, sausage, dumplings, duck, sauerkraut and red cabbage. Definitely not for the faint of heart. I happily washed it down with a very decent pilsner style pivo (beer) that was brewed in house. A meal fit for a king.......or 2 of them.

https://flic.kr/p/RF6K72 https://flic.kr/p/24PXutB
After dinner I stumbled across a shop that sold chimney cakes (Trdelník) and decided to give it a try. It was just OK, having about half the flavor (and probably sugar) of those sold in Prague. By the time I got back to the hotel blue hour was upon us and I was pretty worn out. Fortunately I forgot to take the tripod into my room so it was waiting in the car. This saved my feet from more stairs.

https://flic.kr/p/TigtCU
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I didn't spend a lot of time shooting, only capturing a modest amount. When I look back at these particular pictures I'm instantly reminded of how badly I just wanted to be finished for the day. My body craved rest so after a hot shower and a phone call to my family I was fast asleep. Final destination is Munich so stay tuned for more...

I couldn't agree more with your impression of entering the Czech Republic from a wealthy western European country. The contrast is stark. I entered along the southern border with Austria from Linz on my way to Cesky Krumlov in 2010. I was not only taken with the difference in appearance but also with the attitude of the people in the southern Czech Republic, a much more laissez-faire approach to life. Still, what a gorgeous country!