buckminster

We are a couple in early 60s planning a two week trip to Andalusia in late April/early May. We fly nonstop to Madrid but don't plan to stay there as we have been before. We prefer smaller towns and low key, slow-paced travel. Like to visit churches/historic sites but not big fans of museums. We enjoy walking/hiking and being outdoors and people watching at outdoor cafes. And good, unpretentious restaurants! Our itinerary includes a stop in Cadiz to visit a friend stationed in nearby Rota. We planned that for a weekend when she won't be working.
Here is the itinerary (nothing booked yet):
Sunday: Arrive early morning Madrid, train to Cordoba
Monday: Cordoba
Tuesday Cordoba
Wednesday: Train to Sevilla
Thursday: Sevilla
Friday: Sevilla
Saturday: pick up rental car in Sevilla, drive to Cadiz
Sunday: Cadiz area
Monday: Drive to Ronda with stop in Arcos de la Frontera
Tuesday: Ronda and environs
Wednesday: Ronda and environs
Thursday: Ronda and environs
Friday: Drive to Seville, return car, train to Madrid. Spend night near Atocha train station
Saturday: taxi to airport for midday flight home to US

We left out Granada because we hope to come back and visit that on another trip, in conjunction with Malaga and coastal towns in that area. We have a lot of nights in Ronda because we want to take our time visiting Pueblos Blancos and walking/hiking in Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema. Just couldn't fit it all in at the pace we like to travel.

Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated, especially hotel recommendations. I am a light sleeper and hoping to find places to stay that are walking distance to restaurants, etc, but in quieter areas on the outskirts of tourist areas. In Ronda, wondered if it's best to stay right in town or someplace more rural since we will be driving to Grazelema, etc for day trips. We don't like changing hotels constantly, which is why we are staying at least 3 nights in most places. Many people seem to do Cordoba as a day trip, but it sounds more appealing than Sevilla to me, since it's smaller and perhaps less big city/fashionable. Also the first day or two we expect to be pretty jet lagged so wanted to give ourselves plenty of time there.
Thank you!

Bedar

I think you are spending too much time in Ronda. The town itself can be seen in half a day, and the White Villages are not all that interesting. Would be better to go on to Granada and the glorious Alhambra.

maitaitom

agree with Bedar...

MoBro

Seville is fabulous. I'd take time from Cordoba and Ronda.

Look at apartments by SpainSelect.com. We loved ours in Seville:

https://sevilla.spain-select.com/en_...cio-san-jose-v

buckminster

Yes, I've been struggling with leaving out Granada/Alhambra. I'm not a fan of crowded touristy places but I guess there's a reason everyone goes there! It just sounded so relaxing to end the trip with a few days outdoors, hiking around the Natural Park filled with spring flowers by the White Villages. I suppose we could still spend a day doing that if we spend two nights in Ronda. Then we would have two nights for Granada. We could return our rental car there and then take the train back to Madrid on Friday. Or maybe we should spend only one night in Cadiz and add a third night to Granada. There's so many places to go and I remember it being a very big country when I was there many years ago. Although the trains were super slow then.

IMDonehere

I agree with all of the above and you need not stay too near to Atocha as Barajas is about 20 cab ride north of the city.

buckminster

MoBro, thanks for the link to the apartment website. I'm definitly going to look into that. The one you rented looks lovely but is completely booked for many months. but there are others available. I am not familiar with the neighborhoods so if anyone can suggest a quieter area of Sevilla that is still walking distance to restaurants, etc., please let me know. Since it will be April I'm thinking it won't be too terribly hot yet.

We could do:
Cordoba 2 nights
Seville 4 nights
Cadiz 1 or 2 nights
Ronda 2 nights
Granada 2 or 3 nights
Madrid 1 night before flight home

Bedar

If you don't like crowded, touristy places (who does ?), I hope you won't be disappointed by Ronda which is both. Yes, there is good reason why the Alhambra is both - it's breathtaking. You won't be disappointed there. You could also hike arounf the Sierra Nevada National Park or the Alpujarra which is full of white villages. Have a look.

Bedar

Just remember, the Feria de Sevilla takes place April 15 - 22. It will be very crowded then.

buckminster

Thanks Bedar, I will look into the Alpujarra. I guess I thought Ronda might not be too crowded midweek in early May, but that really was a guess. I am aware of the Feria de Sevilla and planning not to arrive there until April 24 when it's over. I figure some people do like crowds, since I read many reviews who recommend visiting during Holy Week or the Feria. When we see there is some sort of "event" or festival in a place we plan to visit, we always avoid that week

Bedar

No, I don't think anyone likes crowds, but these events are so unique, must be seen/experienced, that the crowds are endured. Ronda might have an off day while you are there, but the Costa del Sol is right down the road, and tour buses are sent up to Ronda. Good luck.

efarr99

You might want to consider Antequera instead of Ronda. Supposedly much less touristed. Considered the heart of Andalusia. You can see ancient dolmens and the El Torcal Nature Reserve is close by for hiking- famous for unstable limestone formations. Lots of churches too. We’re spending a couple of nights there in March on our way to Seville. Enjoy your trip!

PalenQ

Anyway about booking long-distance trains - www.renfe.com where you can book your own discounted tickets online if do early enough -but non-changeble non-refundable from a specific train at a sepcific time so if plane to train leave plenty of time for plane to be late. Check www.seat61.com for lots of help in booking discounted tickets - for general info www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

Agree with bedar about Ronda and overhyped white villages. But they are on way between Seville and Ronda.

PalenQ

Cordoba at 330,000 is a fairly large city but half the size of Seville.

Really smaller cities like Ronda often don't have much to occupy more than a day.

I though Jerez-de-la-Frontera to be a sweet easy day trip from Seville - Sherry House tours and practice session of Andalusian Horses in local arena many days.

buckminster

I believe Jerez is close to Cadiz where we will be spending a night while visiting a friend stationed in Rota, so might visit it then. I wasn't planning on spending more than one day in Ronda itself, but rather using it as a base for exploring the Sierra de Grazelema region. The White Villages look so pretty in the photos I've seen, so I was surprised to read that they are over-hyped and not all that interesting. I will look into Antequera-- thank you.

MoBro

Buckminster, our apartment was in a fabulous neighborhood for walking to nearby restaurants. Maybe another unit in that building is available?

You can email Spain Select. They are very responsive to answering your questions.

kja

Why go back to Sevilla to return your car? You can use public transportation from Ronda.

I adored Cordoba and am glad I gave it 2 full (and very busy) days. I don’t think you’ll regret the time there.

If you decide to visit Granada, try to give it at least 3 nights.

I’ll second Bedar’s recommendation of the Alpujarras.

Hope that helps!

buckminster

Thank you, I didn't realize there was train service between Ronda and Madrid. Fodor's guidebook only mentions buses. I guess I need to do more research!

Regarding the Alpujarras, what is the driving like there? We had such a scary experience driving on a mountainous road with no guardrails (with heavy fog/rain) in Costa Rica that I am much more nervous now. My husband is the driver, and usually fearless, but that experience has made him more cautious as well. I read some reports that used the word "terrifying" and others that say it's easy, so I'm confused. I don't think we would go to Sierra Nevada National Park as it sounds like there still could be snow at that elevation in late April.

kja

For public transpiration to Ronda, you probably have to go transfer en route. Check rome2rio.com, and be sure to click on the links to which it directs you, as the main site is not sensitive to seasonal variation.

I didn't (and wouldn't) drive to Las Alpujarras -- I took a bus from Granada into the Poqueira Gorge, and I must admit that I found the bus terrifying. I'm glad I went, but OMG, I would not want to drive those roads! JMO, though; lots of people do it every day.

Fodor's guidebook is, IMO, a great start for the area. The Rough Guide and Michelin Green are likely to give you a bit more detail.

KarenWoo

Have you made your airline reservations? If not, I recommend flying into Madrid, and then fly home from Seville, otherwise you are wasting time backtracking to Madrid. This is called an open-jaw ticket or multi-city ticket.

`We spent 2 nights in Córdoba and loved it, and could have used a 3rd night. It was one of our favorite cities. Seville is more beautiful architecturally, but also a lot more crowded than Córdoba. We spent 4 nights in Seville, so your allotment of 4 nights there is good.

I also recommend taking the time to visit Granada and the Alhambra. It is magnificent. Try to schedule a night time tour as well.