kja

I finally discovered what some of you have known all along – the times required to travel from place to place in this fascinating region of the world are wreaking havoc on my plans!

Warning: LONG post ahead!

After receiving a wealth of very helpful information on an initial post some time ago:
https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...of-bolivia.cfm
life interrupted my trip planning for all too long. (I’m sure many of you know that feeling!) Finally able to devote some time to my stack of guidebooks, I’ve come up with a very rough, wish-list based itineary -- but the plan calls for more time than I’d like, at 40 days rather than 31.

Day 0: Departure flight with several stops en route to Chiclayo (at least no jet lag!)
Day 1 - 3: Chiclayo; Lambeyeque; Sican day trip; Santa Rosa if I can…. <I plan on skipping Huaca Rajada, as I expect to see other Moche sites from Trujillo -- wise?>
Day 4: Long bus ride into the Chachapoya
Day 5 - 6: Chachapoya, primarily for Kuelap
Day 7: Long bus ride to Trujillo
Day 8 - 10: Trujillo; Chan Chan; Temples of the Sun and the Moon; El Brujo
Day 11: Long bus to Huaraz
Day 12 - 13: Huaraz, primarily for El Chavin de Huantar
Day 14: Bus or flight to Lima
Day 15 - 16: Lima
Day 17: Fly (or?) to Ayacucho
Day 18 – 19: Ayachucho, Huari, maybe Quinua
Day 20: Fly (or?) to Cuzco
Day 21 – 25: Cuzco, Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley… (splitting nights among locations -- I'll make more specific plans once I rough out the trip as a whole, but feel free to comment!)
Day 26: Fly (or?) to Arequipa
Day 27 – 30: Arequipa, day trip to Toro Muerto, overnight trip to the Colca Canyon
Day 31: Bus (or?) to Puno
Day 32: Transportation (what type?) to Rurrenabaque for access to the Park Madidi
Day 33 to 35: Park Madidi
Day 36: Transportation to La Paz
Day 37 to 39: La Paz
Day 40: Flight home

I seem to have 3 options, which are not necessarily mutually exclusive:
• Find ways to travel more efficiently, perhaps by using overnight buses (not included in my current plan, even though some may be my only option), routing flights more efficiently (since many seem to go through Lima), or using privately arranged transportation on occasion.
• Find things to cut from my itinerary.
• Commit to extending my trip.
I know I could – and perhaps should – do more research for reaching out for help, but thought that I might be able to move forward by leaps and bounds, rather than side-wise slipbacks, with your help. ;-)

So:
1. How can I make this plan more efficient?

2. I’m a little concerned about overnight buses – as I understand it, overnight buses in mountainous regions are not without risk, as the drivers are subject to fatigue and stress (etc.) and some roads can be treacherous. Too, as a solo woman, I’m not sure that all buses offer a level of personal safety with which I’m comfortable. Are their routes, or companies, that you do or don’t recommend? OTOH, are there routes that would be BEST at night, because they are safe and the scenery boring, or routes that are BEST during the day, even if safety is not an issue, because the scenery is not to be missed?

3. Are there particular ways in which I could reorder the itinerary to maximize the efficiency of my travel times? Since many flights would take me through Lima, I’ve experimented with a few options for moving it out of a roughly geographic sequence, but I haven’t identified any specific options – except, perhaps, to fly directly into Lima and start there, fly to Chiclayo, and then (later) fly from Huaraz to Ayacucho (through Lima, but without spending time there on that leg). I’m looking into that option a bit further, as I think it might be just a tad more efficient….

4. Are there specific legs for which you would recommend a guided tour or guide or hired driver or other privately arranged transportation? If so, any particular operators? And are there specific resources that any of you have found particularly helpful in identifying reliable and safe private options within Peru?

5. As for trimming my itinerary:
• Cutting Bolivia from this plan makes a lot of sense … except that I was becoming quite fond of the idea of visiting Madidi and La Paz.
• Perhaps I should consider cutting Chachapoyas & Kuelap or Huaraz & Chavin de Huantar (or both), as each involves a LOT of travel for just a few highlights? But ooh, they both sound so special!
• Maybe I’m missing some other obvious way to trim this plan?

6. Or maybe I should explore options for extending my trip? In theory, I’ve banked enough leave time from work to make that an option, although there’s no guarantee that my request would be honored. And honestly, I’m a bit leary of extending TOO much as I’ve taken several 31-day trips, and have come back so exhausted that I’ve concluded that one-month is my personal limit. OTOH, those trips have generally involved being on the go more-or-less non-stop, and maybe those long travel days, and some low-key evenings, would give me sufficient down time to keep going?

7. And before I try to adjust THIS itineary, do any of you see any glaring gap? Do any of you have current information about the Cuevas de Sumbay? I’m a sucker for prehistoric painting....


If it isn’t already clear, I need the help and wisdom and insights of my fellow travelers! Thanks for the information you’ve already shared and thanks in advance for your help with my planning dilemmas….

crellston

Hi kja,

My initial though is that you are attempting to pack in way too much even for 40 days. Am I right in assuming that your priority is to see archaeological sites?

A few random thoughts:

1. Jet lag may not be an issue for you but altitude certainly should be. A basic rule is to ascend gradually. Anywhere over 2700m is likely to cause symptoms, for most this just means breathlessness and a headache but it could be more serious. Ayucucho, Huaraz, Cusco, La Paz, Puno are all above this magic height! Diamox May be an option - check with your GP. A night bus is not the place to be if you do suffer although some carry oxygen. Travel is a lot more tiring at altitude than at sea level, at least until you are properly acclimatised. Try to plan your route low to high.

2. Buses throughout Peru are pretty safe as long as you stick to the big, well known companies. Cruz Del Sur, Movil, Ormeño cover the routes you need. I have done overnight trips on all of those routes without any issue. Book first class which is downstairs, lie flat beds and is less affected by the swaying on mountain roads. The better companies like those above track driving speeds remotely, use two or three drivers for o/n route to allow rest stops and breathalyse staff before departure. With the exception of Ayacucho - Lima you will probably be able to get some sleep.

3. Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca is stunning. Possibly my favourite area of Peru but it is mostly about the mountains and hiking rather than the archaeological sites ( I confess I have never heard of that one!). It is along way to go for just one night. From memory it is around 7-8 hours to Lima.

4. Chiclayo and Laymbaque I found less than enthralling but loved Trujillo. The bus we got fromChachapoyas left at 22.00 and arrived in Trujillo at 04.00 and passed through Chiclayo in the early hours so it should be relatively easy to do that en route. Find hotels that accept middle of night check in. Ours in Trujillo certainly did.

5. Safety on buses. I am neither female nor travelling solo, so I am not sure how Real ent my comments are. We have travelled all over South America by bus. Peru has always been fine (Bolivia, don’t even think about night buses!). Where you do need to take particular care is in and around bus stations. Always get your accommodation to arrange transport to pick you up.

6. There is a lot to see in Lima. It deserves more than just passing through
7. Chachapoyas has apparently changed quite a lot since we were there in 2013, I think a cable car has not been built. How that has affected things I don’t know. There may also be a back way into Huaraz from Chachapoyas- 8 May be wrong bu5 have a feeling that mlgb may have gone that way.

8. Madidi is amazing and I am hoping to get our blog entries and photos transferred over the next few weeks and will post a link when that has been done. The only way I know of getting there is by air or bus from La Paz which doesn’t seem to feature on your route. I think you would need to go Puno - Copacabana - LaPaz and flight to Rurrenabaque. Personally, I think this would be better incorporated into a longer Bolivia trip. It is harder travelling there but a truly amazing country!

Without going into too much detail now, with the time you have, I would think about dividing your trip into north and south Peru using Lima as a hub. Maybe heading south to Arequipa, through Colca to Puno then Cusco and the SV. Fly to Lima for a day or two with a side trip up to Ayucucho before heading north to Huaraz Trujillo etc.

Hope this helps rather than confuses matters!

I will add other thoughts later.

PS Thank you for your kind comments on the Asia board. I think I am am going to take a break, possibly a permanent one, from that forum.

mlgb

Yes, well we are not surprised that it will take a while longer to see all that!

Peru is big, even not counting the Amazon.

Following my opinions on flight options and night buses.

A new daily flight Lima to Jaen on LATAM with a connecting bus to Chachapoyas. I'm sure you have also read that the new cable car to Kuelap is operating (except Monday). Not sure how I feel about that vs the old way which tended to limit the number of people on site.

I would probably fly R/T Lima-Ayacucho, I think you'll find that you pay nearly the same for a return ticket vs a oneway and that is a hard place to reach without a twisty bus ride (not a great one to do at night, or even during the day).



The bus to Huaraz is twisty but even from Lima, it wasn't long as bus trips go in Peru. I did it as a night bus from Lima but maybe lesser lines go in the day from Trujillo. I did go to Chavin de Huantar (on a pool tour with mostly other Peruvian tourists), you don't have much time at the site itself but it is fascinating. With your time constraints Huaraz might be one site I'd drop. As I mentioned, you will see big mountains and the Andes elsewhere. Also May can be transitional so not always clear weather in the Andes.

You didn't include Caral, which I might substitute for Chavin, north of Lima. I did it as a day trip from Lima..but it is on the way to Trujillo.

My suggestion for streamlining time on the north coast part:

Fly Lima to Jaen and shuttle to Chachapoyas.

Then take the night bus back to Chiclayo. From Chiclayo I liked both the Sipan Museum and Tucume pyramids (Purgatorio) but I'm not sure what the rains last year did to the latter (and to the north coast in general). From Chiclayo you can also visit Pimentel and Santa Rosa. I used a taxi driver to see Pimentel and Santa Rosa in a shortish day. He's Herman (German) who works in front of the WinMeier. He doesn't speak English but is a great guy. I suspect any hotel can find you a taxi to do that trip.
The market in Chiclayo is interesting (especially the "witches market" part). It was suggested that inside the market is safe, but best to take a taxi there from your hotel). Of course I ignored that advice but I kind of "blend in".

I actually liked Trujillo less than Chiclayo, but an advantage is that it's easy to get a tour (or taxi) that hits nearby sites ChanChan and Huaca de Luna (you don't see much if anything at Sol) in the same day. I think it's now pretty easy to also get a tour to El Brujo but it may take up most of the day since it is outside of town. Definitely worth visiting.

There is a bus line called Emtrafesa that has regualar service between Chiclayo and Trujillo but I prefer Linea or Movil. Traffic getting in and out of both those cities can be very bad.

You should be able to fly back Trujillo to Lima (Avianca) if you decide not to go to Huaraz. I believe there is one day bus Trujillo to Huaraz on Linea.. It should be scenic although it is at least 8 hours.

Caveat on buses..if it's been raining then I would not take the buses through or over the mountains..eg Huaraz and Ayacucho.

The coast routes should be okay. The tourist services from Arequipa to Colca Canyon and Puno are very good (4-M or using a private or semiprivate tour such as Giardino). There is also a tourist service from Puno to Cusco.

I have only done Cusco etc using a roundtrip flight from Lima, since the flights are so frequent (and seemingly r/t costs about the same as one way) it is usually most efficient.

It will take a few days to get from Arequipa to Chivay/Colca to Puno and then either to La Paz or Cusco. I think those journeys are worth doing overland since the scenery is great. Some people do fly back from Juliaca (which is a pit and often the site of airport protests). Others end their visits in Puerto Maldonado and fly back from there to Lima.

kja

@ crellston &
@ mlgb

Thank you both for your thoughtful and informative answers! You have (once again) come through with the kinds of information I need to help me move forward with my plans – and that’s something I especially appreciate, as trimming an itinerary is my least favorite part of trip planning. I will be giving your answers much more thought over the long weekend, and BTW, Happy New Year. In the meantime, I’ll take just long enough to respond to a few questions / comments:

• Seeing archeological sites of a variety of Pre-Columbian cultures, and seeing museums with their artifacts, is a high priority for me. Other high priorities include seeing the scenery of diverse ecosystems; roaming through interesting and colorful markets (including those for produce, textiles, and yes, the witch-doctor’s market in Chiclayo); and exporing a range of indigenous, colonial, and modern towns and cities.

• I definitely plan to spend some time in Lima! I was just thinking that I might be able to place my time there at various points in my trip, as I may have to fly through it on several occasions and can choose which time I actually go into the city.

• I am aware that the cable car has opened at Kuelap. While I’m sure it will change the site – and hope that the infrastructure there can support the additional tourism -- it also means that I can realistically visit it. Unfortunately, I’m no longer a young mountain goat, and have been facing a long, slow recovery from a leg injury quite some time ago. Sigh. No more long hikes for me, at least for now.

Again, thanks so much for your detailed responses!

mlgb

Actually you could get to Kuelap without hiking, pre cable car..there were van tours that take you right up to the parking lot. Probably they still run on the Mondays.

I think you would really like Ayacucho. The so called Prison Market, and the weaving center in Santa Ana barrio, as well as the market in Quinua. It's also a city that seems to have a cultural performance just about every night. I mentioned Wari Tours before, Ask if you can visit the Gallardo weaving workshop in Santa Ana.

http://www.jornada.com.pe/cultural/7...nia-ayacuchana

kja

Oh, I misunderstood about Kuelap! I can’t travel back in time (just as well, as my travel wish-list is already too long), but I’m glad that you were able to visit before the cable car’s impact.

Thanks for recommending Gallardo’s workship – I’ll definitely look into it, along with your many other suggestions.

Bedar

Remember, you’ll need a yellow fever shot in order to enter Bolivia. My husband and friends didn’t want to get it, so did’t go there.

kja

@ Bedar: Thanks for making sure I know about it!

yestravel

I've only been to a very small portion of where you plan to travel.

"Day 21 – 25: Cuzco, Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley… (splitting nights among locations " I know you move quickly when you travel but I would want more time allocated to this portion of your trip. In particular the SV has a lot you can see.

I can't speak to the bus safety for a woman travelling alone, but buses in SA in general can be concerning. We've travlled around alot on buses and I know others do too, but for me, it's a always a bit nervewracking. Bus travel in SA has imporoved greatly over the years, but I am careful to try and pick a good, reliable company. Just recently there was a bus accident in Peru. http://www.cnn.com/2018/01/02/americ...ash/index.html If you're familar with my travels you will know that I am far from an alarmist.

Sounds like a great trip!

kja

@ yestravel: Thanks for chiming in! I appreciate the input. That was a tragic bus accident; my heart went out to all involved.

kja

I think I’m making some progress, and if so, it’s because of the help so generously provided to date – thanks so much! I am becoming reconciled to skipping Bolivia and Huaraz on this trip, and am adjusting my time in other locations a bit. I’d still like to trim a night, but am not seeing an obvious place to do so. Here’s what I’m now thinking:

• Fly "straight" (with 2 stopovers, sigh) into Jaen; bus or taxi to Chachapoyas. 3 nights in Chachapoyas to include day trips to Kuelap, Leymebamba, etc. (I think a few nights in Chachapoyas should give me enough time to acclimate to altitude enough for the day trip to Keulap -- make sense?)
• Overnight bus to Chiclayo. 3 nights in Chiclayo to include day trips to Lambeyeque, Sican sites, Santa Rosa, and maybe Tucume.
• Daytime bus to Trujillo. 3 nights in Trujillo to include day trips to the Huaca de Luna, ChanChan, and El Brujo.
• Late afternoon or evening flight to Lima. 4 nights in Lima to include a day trip to Caral.
• Fly to Ayachucho. 3 nights in Ayacucho to include a day trip to Huari+.
• Fly to Arequipa. 3 nights in Arequipa to include a day trip to Toro Muerto.
• Daytime bus or other transfer to Colca Canyon. 1 night in Yanque.
• Daytime bus or other transfer to Puno. 2 nights in Puno, to include a visit to the Uros Islands.
• Daytime bus to to Ollantaytambo; overnight in Ollantaytambo.
• Train to Aguas Caliente; afternoon visit to Machu Picchu; overnight in AC.
• Morning visit to Machu Picchu; train back to Ollantaytambo. (I'm planning to reserve two visits to MaPi in case the weather is bad one day and to make sure I have plenty of time. Make sense?) 2 nights in Ollantatambo, to include a day trip to Pisac.
• Daytime transit to Cusco with stops in the Sacred Valley en route. 4 nights in Cusco.
• Fly home.

Nothing is written in stone yet, though I hope to begin nailing down reservations soon. Any and all comments are welcome. Thanks again!

yestravel

I like Lima the least of all the places I have been in SA. I understand the dining scene has really taken off, although we had good food when we were there. So I would take a night off from there.

I assume your flight home starts with a flight from Cusco to Lima? If so, be sure to allow plenty of time. There are often delayed and even cancelled flights originating in Cusco. We got stuck for 4-5 hours due to the fog in Lima. As much as I owul dhave liked to avoid it we went back to Lima a day before our flight to the US.

We did a 2 day 1 night tour from Arequipa out to Colca Canyon. It was a small van and it worked out well for us non tour people. One couple got dropped off, did hiking and then got picked up later by another tour bus. I wished we had thought to do that.

I loved MP -- it's one of the top places I have ever seen - literally took my breath away. So allowing extra time seems like a good idea. I actually went on a Sunday which is the big market day in Pisac hoping it would cut down on the crowds and it did. Also it really emptied out at and & after lunch. While everyone went to eat (or left) we pratcially had MP to ourselves. it was fabulous.

Don't miss the sites outside Cusco.

Second to MP I thought the Pisac ruins very, very nice. The town itself was intriguing. We spent 2 nights there mid week and it was a treat to mingle with the locals and explore it viturally tourist free.

kja

Thanks, yestravel – I appreciate the input!

Perhaps you can help me understand the flight issues? If I book through on a single ticket, Cusco to home, then even if the flight from Cusco or Lima is delayed, then the airline has responsibility to get me onward when possible, right? So I would face twice the likelihood of a delay due to weather because my overall flight has 2 legs, but separate flights on separate days could also each be delayed by weather, right? In contrast, planning to stop in Lima for a night or two at the end of my trip would mean adding the time to get to and from the airport in Lima again. I can see that it would matter if I absolutely had to be home on a specific day, but a delay of a day or so wouldn’t pose insurmountable difficulties. But maybe I’m not thinking the matter through correctly?

Interesting observation about Lima – it makes me glad that this will be my first major city in South America. I’ve certainly read about Lima’s culinary offerings, but was thinking I would want 2 days in the city itself (not counting a day trip to Caral) more because I want to visit a number of its museums than for dining. Maybe it will depend on the timing of my flights into and out of the city….

If I can time it right, trying to visit Machu Picchu on a Sunday because of the local markets (especially Pisac’s) makes a lot of sense. I just read that in one of my guidebooks last night, but wasn’t sure whether to believe it, as I’d also read that admission is free or at least reduced for Peruvians on Sundays. That makes me particularly glad to hear your confirmation! And I’ll definitely give some thought to staying in Pisac for a night – as you know, I don’t mind relocating, and you make a compelling case for the advantages of doing so.

The sites outside of Cusco and in the Sacred Valley that I currently have on my “must-see” list include Sacsayhuaman, Ollantaytambo, Pisac, Salineras, Chinchero, and Pinkuylluna. Moray sounds intriguing, but I’ve read that it’s a 6-hour hike, so I’ll have to give it a pass. Are there others that you think I should consider?

mlgb

I'm not sure how long ago yestravel was in Peru, but I think it was a while back. Two of the airlines are now equipped to land in fog (at least LATAM and Avianca). I personally try to fly into Lima on a day earlier than my international flight. Problems can also happen with weather in Cusco and a "paro" at one airport or another. But yes, if you book your return from Cusco all on one ticket they will get you home (eventually). And if you don't need to be at work and a slight delay doesn't matter, than take a morning flight from Cusco with a longish layover at the airport (which isn't a bad place to hang out).

Yes the museums in Lima are outstanding..especially the Amano

http://eng.museoamano.org/visit-us/(given your interest in textiles I would ask for the "specialized" tour which includes them pulling out some of the drawers). The gauzes are simply astounding and there is also a good selection of Wari textiles. The Larco is also very worthwhile. In addition I like the downtown district which is quite safe now (during daytime) and the Riva Aguero (you can do a virtual tour to see if it interests you).
I take the Metropolitano down to the Central Station, and then walk to Plaza Bolivar and up Jiron de la Union to the Plaza de Armas. I can upload a walking route later.

If you really want to enjoy Lima for your first time I can't recommend any place other than 3B Barranco (although if you like art then Second Home Peru is another good choice.) Perfect for a single female. Click thru their own website for the best rate (multi night discount). In Barranco there are a number of galleries such as Dedalo which you'll want to spend a day browsing along with Artesanías Las Pallas and Don Bosco. 3B has a handy map of the local galleries, restaurants etc.

https://www.3bhostal.com/rooms-and-rates

Don't expect to have much "tourist free time" in the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, but I think you will find that in Ayacucho.

You don't need to hike to Moray, they drive you to the top of the circles. I'm not sure whether they allow you to hike down anymore.

If you stay in Yanque at Killwasi, walk down to look at the Colcas, it isn't very far from the hotel. I thought the hike to Uyo Uyo was difficult, however.

It's actually easier to visit Pisac from Cusco, vs Olly. I like Olly in the morning when it's more quiet (before the day trippers arrive in the afternoon). I would consider staying in Pisac after MP, if you manage to see the Olly ruins in the morning before you head to MP.

kja

Once again, I am awed by the information available here on Fodor’s – including textile expertise! I had no idea that I could request a special tour of the Amano -- how cool! I am one lucky traveler.

I must admit that I had worried that I was short-changing Lima far too much by giving it only 2 or 2.5 days (not counting my day trip to Caral), and so was a bit surprised by yestravel’s comment – but then again, I appreciate her perspective and her response to my request for ideas about where I might cut one more night. Maybe Lima is the place to cut a night, if for no other reason than the fact that I can more easily include time in Lima in any future trip to the region than any other place in Peru. I suspect I’ll find more than enough to fill every moment I give to Lima, whatever that is, but will continue to weigh my priorities for that city as I finalize my plans.


@ mlgb: Would it be fair to take your latest set of comments as a sign that you don’t see any major problems with my newest itinerary, either for timing or for mode of transportation?

For the much appreciated specifics:
• A “paro” is some kind of delay? What do you see as the advantages of spending a night in Lima prior to flying internationally?
• I know that you have recommended the 3B Barranco, as have others, and plan to look into it; I’ll also check the Second Home Peru.
• I have notes on Killwasi, too, and also the pricier Colca Lodge, which I am considering for a splurge – thoughts?
• While in the Colca Canyon, I hope to see the condors and admire the scenery, but want to avoid any hikes that involve climbing (either to or from), so thanks for the warning about Uyo Uyo!
• Nice to know about Moray – I would have hated to skip it unnecessarily!
• Great news about Pisac – sounds like I should really explore my options to spend a night in Pisac on way to/from Cusco. As someone who doesn’t mind one-night stays, that would mean avoiding a back track AND getting to see an interesting place without daytrippers. Bonus!!!


<b>** New Question! **</b> It seems that I could time my trip to be in Cusco for the full moon in late May, and I believe that marks the start of a local celebration a bit out of town, with associated festivities in Cusco itself, and if I’m reading correctly, that would also mean being in Cusco for the start of Corpus Christi celebrations. Being there at those times would, I’m sure, add to the crowds and the pressures on my time, but I would think those would also be incredibly memorable experiences. Am I right in thinking that if I can make that timing work, it would be worth my while to be in Cusco at that time? And if so, would I need to plan on extra time in the area to see things that might be crowded or closed because of the celebrations?

mlgb

Not really any major problems..I'm sure as you start to look at flight and bus times it may tweak a bit.

Paro is a local word for "strike"..different than some other Spanish speaking countries (And palta is a unique Peruvian word for Avocado).

Colca Lodge is down in the canyon, Yanque is on the ridge..if the church in Yanque is not closed due to quake damage you can walk there. Have not been to the lodge, but Killawasi was pretty nice, even splurgy...

I have never managed to catch any festivities in Cusco but I would try to if I could...

Also I DO like Pisac on Sunday, if you can be outside the chapel around 10:30is, for the 11 am Quechua Mass you see the villagers/mayors arriving in their local attire beforehand (and asking for 1 sol for the photo). The last time I went they had the fruit and veg vendors in the main square on Sundays..(Pisac isn't so much about the shopping any more). Also the Horno Colonial is s fun (there is one in Ayacucho also). I stayed in Pisac about 1km out of town on the Saturday night and walked into town early, which was interesting as you see the vendors come in from the outlying areas. There is also closer lodging to the center.

kja

Tweaks are to be expected; in the meantime, I’m so glad that my new plan sounds possible! As you know, my prior plans took me into Peru and on to Fantasyland all too often. ;-)

Ah, paro! I will hope to avoid them, but they certainly aren’t unique to Peru, even if the word is.

Thanks for clarifying the difference between the Colca Lodge and Killawasi!

And just to make sure I’m on the same page … the Horno Colonial is a restaurant / dining option, right? That’s what I’m finding with a google search…. (I have so much to learn yet!)

Your description of Pisac on a Sunday makes me smile. It seems that I have a wealth of wonderful options, and the only problem is how to choose among them.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your expertise, mlgb!

mlgb

Horno is oven..it's a wood fired colonial oven for baking bread..And there's a little guinea pig house. There were two of them on the same block, just ask around (drop the 'H')

kja

Cool! I saw a traditional wood-fired bread oven in Greece last spring; it will be interesting to see if I note any differences.

crellston

If you can swing it to spend time in Cusco when the celebrations are on DO IT. We have been there a couple of times when major fiestas were happening and it was amazing! Been better in Arequipa - each t8me we have been there there have been major parades going on. Somthing to behold.

Altitude in Chachapoyas/ Kuelap - it all helps but Chachapoyas is at 2300 and Kuelap 3000m but the latter will be in the daytime. It is the sleeping altitude that really matters. A good reason to avoid night buses until acclimatised?

Lima is a great city, whe have probably spent a couple of months there in hotels and apartments and have always loved it. Possibly our favourite South American city ( along with Bogota, Buenos Aires, La Paz) great food, intersting museums and a fine place to chill out before a flight home. We used 3B Barranco on mlgb’s excellent recommendation. Great location in Barranco.

We stayed in Killawasi in Colca and used them for onward travel to Puno. We got to Yanque two days after the earthquake struck and it was devasted! Buildings were destroyed, the army were in distributing food and Killawasi was still functioning! The town deserves th support of tourists. Colca is a wonderful place!

The trip to Puno is spectacular but Puno itself is no grea5 shakes and the Uros Islands are a theme park nowadays. I would skip and take a cruise to amanatni or Taquile instead.

Here is a link to our Peru blog with some of the destinations you are thinking of https://accidentalnomads.com/category/peru/ I am in the process of trying to transfer the entries from our now defunct Travelpod blog over to this one.

In essence, I think you now have the makings of a great trip.