Back from Campania - Benevento
Jun 10th, 2010, 04:52 PM
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Back from Campania - Benevento
Well, we debated about adding two days in Benevento to our 2 week itinerary - but a number of tour books called the Benevento/Caserta/Avellino area a "hidden gem", visited only by Italian tourists. And that was irresistible.
We left Amalfi by car, and stopped in Vietri Su Mare to check out the gorgeous ceramics. This is a must stop if you like ceramics, there are some very famous studios and tons to choose from. We bought a few things we could squish in our suitcases and proceeded to Benevento.
We stayed at the Hotel Villa Trainano, very nice and just steps from Trajan's Arch. This arch is incredible, worth a trip in itself - it's the most well preserved Roman arch in the world and was cleaned 10 or so years ago. Really magnificent. We walked around the historic district, checked out some famous churches, ate gelato...
Dinner was one of the very best of the trip - at Nunzia, a local favorite, and now OUR favorite. I'd read about it in a guidebook and the hotel also recommended it. We had trouble finding it, and because we were in a non-touristy part of Italy - very few people spoke English. We asked a man for directions and all I understood was "two" and "left". Fortunately, a nice woman was with him and she basically dragged us the 3 blocks to the DOOR of the restaurant, chattering in Italian the whole time. We hugged and kissed when she left!
This is a mama-run kitchen. No menu. Mama shops in the morning and decides what she's going to make - and it's not a set menu, she makes LOTS of things. So she comes to your table to recite the long list of items - in Italian. We were VERY lucky that her son spoke English and helped us order. Wonderful bruschetta with white beans (which doesn't sound like much but was divine). Square pasta with tomato and basil sauce. Stuffed Squid and something LIKE squid but smaller and darker, with peas and a delicious sauce. We had NO idea how much anything cost - but with water wine and covert the total was...... 30 euros. Unbelievable.
The next day we drove to Caserta, destination the Royal Palace or Reggia. It was built to rival Versailles and it truly does. Huge, ornate, full of marble, gilt, frescoes, statues, chandeliers, long rooms.... Outside is a garden with a series of waterfalls. We decided to walk (so as to enjoy the waterfalls more), but our perspective was off and we were bushed when we got to the end. I decided we were taking the shuttle bus back even though we hadn't bought tickets.
The bus came and we jammed on with a field trip of 8 year olds! My husband was in the front of the bus, I was in the back, surrounded by adorable 8 year boys. One of them could speak English and I was grilled. Was I English? No, Americano - AAHHH! Where from? Washington DC - AAAAHHHH!!!! My name, my favorite color, did I like cats or dogs, what time did I eat breakfast. All this information was duly shouted to the kids at the front who were missing all the excitement. I felt like a Martian!
We were too tired when we returned to have a 2 hour dinner at Nunzia again (although that had been the plan). Instead we went to a close-by neighborhood place, Ristorante Pizzario Traiano. Good but not great. BUT, the treat was more BOYS. A group of about eight 9 or 10 year olds trooped in sans parents, took over a big table, pulled out their video games. The waiter brought huge bottles of coke, then fries. There was also a younger brother, maybe 5 years old. A parent didn't show up for 45 minutes!
The whole area is very nice, and it was a treat to be somewhere where tourists don't usually go. If you get the chance, DO it.
Alice
We left Amalfi by car, and stopped in Vietri Su Mare to check out the gorgeous ceramics. This is a must stop if you like ceramics, there are some very famous studios and tons to choose from. We bought a few things we could squish in our suitcases and proceeded to Benevento.
We stayed at the Hotel Villa Trainano, very nice and just steps from Trajan's Arch. This arch is incredible, worth a trip in itself - it's the most well preserved Roman arch in the world and was cleaned 10 or so years ago. Really magnificent. We walked around the historic district, checked out some famous churches, ate gelato...
Dinner was one of the very best of the trip - at Nunzia, a local favorite, and now OUR favorite. I'd read about it in a guidebook and the hotel also recommended it. We had trouble finding it, and because we were in a non-touristy part of Italy - very few people spoke English. We asked a man for directions and all I understood was "two" and "left". Fortunately, a nice woman was with him and she basically dragged us the 3 blocks to the DOOR of the restaurant, chattering in Italian the whole time. We hugged and kissed when she left!
This is a mama-run kitchen. No menu. Mama shops in the morning and decides what she's going to make - and it's not a set menu, she makes LOTS of things. So she comes to your table to recite the long list of items - in Italian. We were VERY lucky that her son spoke English and helped us order. Wonderful bruschetta with white beans (which doesn't sound like much but was divine). Square pasta with tomato and basil sauce. Stuffed Squid and something LIKE squid but smaller and darker, with peas and a delicious sauce. We had NO idea how much anything cost - but with water wine and covert the total was...... 30 euros. Unbelievable.
The next day we drove to Caserta, destination the Royal Palace or Reggia. It was built to rival Versailles and it truly does. Huge, ornate, full of marble, gilt, frescoes, statues, chandeliers, long rooms.... Outside is a garden with a series of waterfalls. We decided to walk (so as to enjoy the waterfalls more), but our perspective was off and we were bushed when we got to the end. I decided we were taking the shuttle bus back even though we hadn't bought tickets.
The bus came and we jammed on with a field trip of 8 year olds! My husband was in the front of the bus, I was in the back, surrounded by adorable 8 year boys. One of them could speak English and I was grilled. Was I English? No, Americano - AAHHH! Where from? Washington DC - AAAAHHHH!!!! My name, my favorite color, did I like cats or dogs, what time did I eat breakfast. All this information was duly shouted to the kids at the front who were missing all the excitement. I felt like a Martian!
We were too tired when we returned to have a 2 hour dinner at Nunzia again (although that had been the plan). Instead we went to a close-by neighborhood place, Ristorante Pizzario Traiano. Good but not great. BUT, the treat was more BOYS. A group of about eight 9 or 10 year olds trooped in sans parents, took over a big table, pulled out their video games. The waiter brought huge bottles of coke, then fries. There was also a younger brother, maybe 5 years old. A parent didn't show up for 45 minutes!
The whole area is very nice, and it was a treat to be somewhere where tourists don't usually go. If you get the chance, DO it.
Alice
Jun 11th, 2010, 03:13 AM
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Great, Alice! The part about the boys reminded me of a group of high school children on a school trip that we met at Paestum. When they heard that we were from New York City, they almost fell over themselves in excitement. That had absolutely no interest in the temples they were there to see, and lots and lots of interest in us.
How long was the drive from Vietri to Benevento?
How long was the drive from Vietri to Benevento?
Jun 11th, 2010, 01:27 PM
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I'm so glad to hear that somebody else enjoys being on buses with school children.
And YES!! Let;s give a shout out for spending at least 2 days per vacation in Italy heading off to where tourists don't go! In my experience, there are always jaw-dropping sights like there are in the places that are tourist-jammed, the food is better and cheaper, plus there is the amazement of experiencing Italy, the foreign country, instead of Italy, the tourist consumer item.
I suspect your something-like-squid-but-darker was seppie, a kind of cuttlefish -- and it isn't is amazing how well-cooked white beans with salt and true Italian olive oil can be exquisite?
And YES!! Let;s give a shout out for spending at least 2 days per vacation in Italy heading off to where tourists don't go! In my experience, there are always jaw-dropping sights like there are in the places that are tourist-jammed, the food is better and cheaper, plus there is the amazement of experiencing Italy, the foreign country, instead of Italy, the tourist consumer item.
I suspect your something-like-squid-but-darker was seppie, a kind of cuttlefish -- and it isn't is amazing how well-cooked white beans with salt and true Italian olive oil can be exquisite?
Jun 12th, 2010, 04:54 AM
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ekscrunchy - a little over an hour to get there. Much longer than necessary to find our hotel.
zeppole - I suspected cuttlefish, but hadn't researched it yet. And those white beans were a revelation.
Alice
zeppole - I suspected cuttlefish, but hadn't researched it yet. And those white beans were a revelation.
Alice
Jun 15th, 2010, 06:12 PM
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Hi Alice, I'm Antonio, Nunzia's son from Benevento. Big thanks for the nice words. You eate a stuffed Cuttlefish and the ones with peas were "totani" a type of squid, similar to calamari, but, as you said, smaller and darker (and much tastier too!). I tried to find a translation for it but, probably because it's a mediterranean fish, I couldn't find it.
If you want to make that bruschetta at home it's very easy. just make sure you get a really good quality extra virgin olive oil.
1)Cook the beans following the instructions on the packet (but often it's needed an extra 15 minutes)
2)toast the bread
3)gently rub a piece of garlic on the toasted bread
4)put on top the warm beans, olive oil, oregan
and enjoy it!
Thanks again
Antonio from Benevento
If you want to make that bruschetta at home it's very easy. just make sure you get a really good quality extra virgin olive oil.
1)Cook the beans following the instructions on the packet (but often it's needed an extra 15 minutes)
2)toast the bread
3)gently rub a piece of garlic on the toasted bread
4)put on top the warm beans, olive oil, oregan
and enjoy it!
Thanks again
Antonio from Benevento
Jun 15th, 2010, 06:21 PM
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I've read your request you did in May on which guide to use to eat well in italy. Well I don't know about the foreign guides but among the italian ones I would like to recommend the Slow food "Osterie d'Italia" for authentic and genuine food (normally below 60 usd per person), and "Gambero Rosso" for top restaurants.
Jun 16th, 2010, 06:09 PM
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We were in Benevento for two nights this past May, and it was a lovely and very friendly town. I was hesitant to go there at first, but I'm so glad I did.
My husband was searching for his roots in nearby Faicchio and San Salvatore, and although we spoke no Italian and found few outside the hotel who spoke English we were blown away by the warmth and helpfulness of everyone we encountered. One particularly nice guy at the Benevento town hall went out of his way to guide us to the hall of records - he searched high and low for a good town map, and then walked us part of the way.
Our dinner at Nunzia's was most definitely memorable. We had no idea what we were ordering either, but Nunzia called over an American from a nearby table, and she helped with the translation. The pasta dish (Nunzia just said it was pasta tipica) was honestly the best pasta I had in Italy.
We also enjoyed Osteria Cotton Club. The menu was simple, but different, and very good.
The Hotel Villa Traiano, where we stayed, is a lovely hotel with a nice breakfast.
Agree with Alice9. Benevento is definitely worth a stop for a night or two.
My husband was searching for his roots in nearby Faicchio and San Salvatore, and although we spoke no Italian and found few outside the hotel who spoke English we were blown away by the warmth and helpfulness of everyone we encountered. One particularly nice guy at the Benevento town hall went out of his way to guide us to the hall of records - he searched high and low for a good town map, and then walked us part of the way.
Our dinner at Nunzia's was most definitely memorable. We had no idea what we were ordering either, but Nunzia called over an American from a nearby table, and she helped with the translation. The pasta dish (Nunzia just said it was pasta tipica) was honestly the best pasta I had in Italy.
We also enjoyed Osteria Cotton Club. The menu was simple, but different, and very good.
The Hotel Villa Traiano, where we stayed, is a lovely hotel with a nice breakfast.
Agree with Alice9. Benevento is definitely worth a stop for a night or two.
Jun 17th, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Antonio, thanks very much - I will absolutely make the bruschetta at home - although I'd much rather eat it at your restaurant!
Totani, hmm, I'm going to have to look that up, it was certainly delicious though.
Alice
Totani, hmm, I'm going to have to look that up, it was certainly delicious though.
Alice
Jul 7th, 2010, 01:32 PM
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thanks so much for the update! I'm thrilled to hear others have taken the time to explore Benevento! I know I've said it before, but it really is not given the mention it deserves in most guide books. I, for one, was so pleasantly surprised when we explored the town for the first time.
Antonio, I have yet to dine at the restaurant, but I will definitely do so next time I'm in town - thanks for posting!
Antonio, I have yet to dine at the restaurant, but I will definitely do so next time I'm in town - thanks for posting!
Jan 25th, 2011, 08:46 AM
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We have two days to spend before we rent our house in Perdifumo, and I was trying to find a place to drive to after our flight into Rome. Benevento is currently on the list, as well as Fondi. Do you think it is doable to get into Rome at 8:00 am and then drive to Benevento? Can you recommend any hotels? Thank you! C
Feb 1st, 2011, 05:08 PM
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Alice -- what a great little report on an area that is so difficult to find information about.
Your time on the bus sounds adorable.
thanks so much for posting!
(i'm assuming you traveled elsewhere in the area, so i will search for your trip reports!)
Your time on the bus sounds adorable.
thanks so much for posting!
(i'm assuming you traveled elsewhere in the area, so i will search for your trip reports!)
Feb 7th, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Hi Alice, your post is interesting and I am very happy that you have found irresistible these 2 days in Benevento.
I am italian, I live near Naples, and I am repeating that in Campania there are not only Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Pompeii, Capri ecc, but even very small and nice places, near Benevento for ex., or in Cilento area, worth to be explored. Thanks again for posting.
I am italian, I live near Naples, and I am repeating that in Campania there are not only Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Pompeii, Capri ecc, but even very small and nice places, near Benevento for ex., or in Cilento area, worth to be explored. Thanks again for posting.
Feb 7th, 2011, 02:09 PM
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Annarita: I am going to bring up a thread here about the Cilento; perhaps you can add your ideas! We are fortunate to have a local expert on this forum!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-long-trip.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-long-trip.cfm
Mar 24th, 2011, 06:56 AM
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Hi Alice,
I've been in Benevento last week for work and I suggest you a brand new hotel for your came back!!
The Una Hotel Il Molino is very deligthful, in the center of the town near Duomo and historic monuments.
For a short stay or just to avoid Naple city you can try it and its excellent restaurant Le Macine!!!
have a look...
www.unahotels.it/Benevento
I've been in Benevento last week for work and I suggest you a brand new hotel for your came back!!
The Una Hotel Il Molino is very deligthful, in the center of the town near Duomo and historic monuments.
For a short stay or just to avoid Naple city you can try it and its excellent restaurant Le Macine!!!
have a look...
www.unahotels.it/Benevento
Mar 24th, 2011, 07:11 AM
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You know, I hadn't checked back on this discussion for a while, and I'm delighted that my report may generate some more folks to visit that area. We loved it. Not sure when we'll get back though. Too many places I haven't seen at all yet!
Alice
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