The Great North American Road Trip
Apr 22nd, 2012, 05:40 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 9 - 10
Moab (Arches National Park)
We got to the Park, after driving from Grand Junction, around 10 am. We had planned to spring for a park season pass (80$) but it turns out this week is free admission. Good news/bad news...some savings for us, but will it mean more people? Especially as the weather is fantastic.
It is readily apparent why Arches gets almost a million visitors a year. You hardly have to get out of your car to see some of the most spectacular scenes...sort of a "drive-thru" national park. We did the circuit and the several short hikes, and were in Moab for a late lunch at
There were no deals to be had at the chain hotels, so we opted for an inn at about the same price (the Sunflower Hill). It was a great choice, didn't give up any chain convenience and got a lot more, including a herd of mule deer wandering across the back lawn in the late afternoon.
We opted to do the Devils Garden primitive loop rather than Delicate Arch on Saturday. We wanted a longer hike, and figured it might be less popular. We were rewarded....we had Pine Tree Arch and most of the trail to ourselves, except at a couple of the tricky slick rock bits where it was helpful to have a group in front of us to provide some navigating insight. Of course, we had a LOT more company when we got to Double 0, and on the main trail on the way back to the parking lot which had been pretty quiet when we got there at 830, but was overflowing at 1:00. For some people, the real hike would be getting from their car to the trailhead! We figured we deserved an afternoon by the pool.
Today's philosophical pondering: it occurred to me at one point, standing on a fin and taking in the view of what seemed to be pretty close to the whole world around here that I would likely never be here again. I don't have a bucket list per se, but there are a lot of other places to see. How can I be sad and thrilled at the same time? Carpe diem.
Amana colonies...tomfuller has the backstory. I don't know how much of that history is told in the place. It seems to be promoted more as a "pioneer village". And yes, there are fridges and stoves across the continent with an Amana label on them, but I doubt that would warrant a visit. Although as I recall, the New Yorker had a good piece a few years ago, using it as an object lesson in the loss of craftsmanship and the power of brand.
Tomfuller,we didn't go in to Glenwood Springs. We had done some exploring in this area on a previous trip to Telluride and we wanted to get to Grand Junction in time to deal with some logistics and laundry. That was the best part of GJ.
Moab (Arches National Park)
We got to the Park, after driving from Grand Junction, around 10 am. We had planned to spring for a park season pass (80$) but it turns out this week is free admission. Good news/bad news...some savings for us, but will it mean more people? Especially as the weather is fantastic.
It is readily apparent why Arches gets almost a million visitors a year. You hardly have to get out of your car to see some of the most spectacular scenes...sort of a "drive-thru" national park. We did the circuit and the several short hikes, and were in Moab for a late lunch at
There were no deals to be had at the chain hotels, so we opted for an inn at about the same price (the Sunflower Hill). It was a great choice, didn't give up any chain convenience and got a lot more, including a herd of mule deer wandering across the back lawn in the late afternoon.
We opted to do the Devils Garden primitive loop rather than Delicate Arch on Saturday. We wanted a longer hike, and figured it might be less popular. We were rewarded....we had Pine Tree Arch and most of the trail to ourselves, except at a couple of the tricky slick rock bits where it was helpful to have a group in front of us to provide some navigating insight. Of course, we had a LOT more company when we got to Double 0, and on the main trail on the way back to the parking lot which had been pretty quiet when we got there at 830, but was overflowing at 1:00. For some people, the real hike would be getting from their car to the trailhead! We figured we deserved an afternoon by the pool.
Today's philosophical pondering: it occurred to me at one point, standing on a fin and taking in the view of what seemed to be pretty close to the whole world around here that I would likely never be here again. I don't have a bucket list per se, but there are a lot of other places to see. How can I be sad and thrilled at the same time? Carpe diem.
Amana colonies...tomfuller has the backstory. I don't know how much of that history is told in the place. It seems to be promoted more as a "pioneer village". And yes, there are fridges and stoves across the continent with an Amana label on them, but I doubt that would warrant a visit. Although as I recall, the New Yorker had a good piece a few years ago, using it as an object lesson in the loss of craftsmanship and the power of brand.
Tomfuller,we didn't go in to Glenwood Springs. We had done some exploring in this area on a previous trip to Telluride and we wanted to get to Grand Junction in time to deal with some logistics and laundry. That was the best part of GJ.
Apr 24th, 2012, 01:21 PM
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 11 - 13
Moab - Springdale Utah (Zion National Park)
Dayle, thanks for your encouragement. My reflection was more about that moment in Arches than an intention about Utah. You will see we have had a splendid time, and I can imagine a return. We didn't, for instance, get to Bryce or some of the interesting state parks except as drive-bys.
A cluster of antelope was gathered along a fence on the highway as we drove out of Moab. I don't know if they were confused, curious about the cattle on the other side, or thwarted in their efforts to get from point a to point b. I am sure if you live in this part of the world you see them a lot, but we thought that was pretty special.
Hwy 12/24 to Zion. Isn't that some amazing road? We had no idea, and enjoyed it thoroughly. Sun was shining, music was playing, and traffic was pretty much nonexistent. We have already had the essence of road trip, and the knot of work between my shoulder blades is loosening.
We were pretty open coming into Zion about how we would spend our couple of days, but it didnt take us long to figure out that we could have a perfectly satisfactory experience without tackling Angels Landing. We have done some "via ferrata" trails in Europe, but given the choice here in the park, and as first-timers, we decided not to go there. And we can maintain the pretense that we would have done The Narrows but for the fact that it is closed due to high water conditions. Released from the requirement to be heroic, we covered nearly all of the shorter trails and did about half of the Eastern Rim/Observation point trail (into the slot canyon at about 1000 feet). So we figure we got our money's worth (it's still free!)
And now for something completely different. Tomorrow, we drive to Las Vegas, a place I have never been and don't expect to go again (DH has been to a few meetings there). I figured it is a place you should see once...and who knows, maybe I will have an attitude adjustment. Because we are planning it as a once-in-a-lifetime thing, we are staying at the Bellagio, going to a Cirque show, eating in some terifically pretentious restaurant. Go big or go home. See you on the other side!
Moab - Springdale Utah (Zion National Park)
Dayle, thanks for your encouragement. My reflection was more about that moment in Arches than an intention about Utah. You will see we have had a splendid time, and I can imagine a return. We didn't, for instance, get to Bryce or some of the interesting state parks except as drive-bys.
A cluster of antelope was gathered along a fence on the highway as we drove out of Moab. I don't know if they were confused, curious about the cattle on the other side, or thwarted in their efforts to get from point a to point b. I am sure if you live in this part of the world you see them a lot, but we thought that was pretty special.
Hwy 12/24 to Zion. Isn't that some amazing road? We had no idea, and enjoyed it thoroughly. Sun was shining, music was playing, and traffic was pretty much nonexistent. We have already had the essence of road trip, and the knot of work between my shoulder blades is loosening.
We were pretty open coming into Zion about how we would spend our couple of days, but it didnt take us long to figure out that we could have a perfectly satisfactory experience without tackling Angels Landing. We have done some "via ferrata" trails in Europe, but given the choice here in the park, and as first-timers, we decided not to go there. And we can maintain the pretense that we would have done The Narrows but for the fact that it is closed due to high water conditions. Released from the requirement to be heroic, we covered nearly all of the shorter trails and did about half of the Eastern Rim/Observation point trail (into the slot canyon at about 1000 feet). So we figure we got our money's worth (it's still free!)
And now for something completely different. Tomorrow, we drive to Las Vegas, a place I have never been and don't expect to go again (DH has been to a few meetings there). I figured it is a place you should see once...and who knows, maybe I will have an attitude adjustment. Because we are planning it as a once-in-a-lifetime thing, we are staying at the Bellagio, going to a Cirque show, eating in some terifically pretentious restaurant. Go big or go home. See you on the other side!
Apr 24th, 2012, 07:35 PM
#25
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Because the Mormons regard the honey bee as a very industrious creature and theyhad to work very industriously in order to settle and survive in the Utah climate,like the honey bees. Of course "survive" in the way of east coasters. The native Utah tribes had been surviving quite nicely long before the Mormons arrived.
Apr 28th, 2012, 10:57 AM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a hotel karma story. Checking into our hotel in Zion, we were told we had been "upgraded". We found the room to be small and dark, and said so when we checked out, because we wondered how bad the original assignment had been, if that was an upgrade. Turned out it was a mistake, for which apologies and a discount were offered and accepted. So when we arrived at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, and were again told we were being "upgraded", our hearts sank. And rose again, as the door swung open to a suite that was bigger than our condo, including two complete bath/ dressing rooms with his and her amenities. So that was fun.
As was the following day--spa, pool, a dinner beside the fountains (another fluke, somebody hadn't shown up and we were in our best dress and on our best behavior, some got the premium seats) and the Cirque de Soliel show "O". We were luckier with our reservations than our gaming, I lost the entire amount I committed to the slots ($3.00)
I found all of the services to be of a very high quality, cheerful and professional. That was surprising, and expensive. Maybe I have read too much dystopian science fiction, as in Margaret Atwood. I found the mass spectacles, 360 degree marketing, gaps between the "magic" inside the hotel and the rather starker reality outside, and the profligate use of water in the desert made me queasy. And that was before the brandy.
As was the following day--spa, pool, a dinner beside the fountains (another fluke, somebody hadn't shown up and we were in our best dress and on our best behavior, some got the premium seats) and the Cirque de Soliel show "O". We were luckier with our reservations than our gaming, I lost the entire amount I committed to the slots ($3.00)
I found all of the services to be of a very high quality, cheerful and professional. That was surprising, and expensive. Maybe I have read too much dystopian science fiction, as in Margaret Atwood. I found the mass spectacles, 360 degree marketing, gaps between the "magic" inside the hotel and the rather starker reality outside, and the profligate use of water in the desert made me queasy. And that was before the brandy.
Apr 28th, 2012, 11:40 AM
#27
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A long road trip. About this covering so much territory, I am reminded of a TV personality who vowed to visited every state in the union in a week's time (I think a week). Then he came home and gave talks. Your adventures much better of course.
Yes, we are quite familiar with the Amanas and Moab and more.
Yes, we are quite familiar with the Amanas and Moab and more.
Apr 28th, 2012, 01:09 PM
#28
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 11,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like Picasa for posting pictures online. You get several gigabytes of storage for free. If you like, you can take a look at my England/Wales album here: http://picasaweb.google.com/10725546...plpyVmym0JIqFQ
Sounds like you're having a wonderful trip!
Lee Ann
Sounds like you're having a wonderful trip!
Lee Ann
May 6th, 2012, 02:36 PM
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 16 - Palm Springs
Day 17 - 24 Baja California (Rancho La Puerta)
Day 25 - Santa Monica
We haven't fallen off the face of the earth since the last posting, but it does feel like we have travelled through several realities. Our drive to Palm Springs from Las Vegas and our overnight stay there was unremarkable, apart from some interesting bits of the old Route 66, which we appeared to be sharing with every motorcyclist in all adjoining states. We also had a chance to break out the picnic kit for the first time, stocked up at the Whole Foods in Las Vegas and enjoyed in a park in Twentynine Palms. We stayed at the Best Western Las Brisas to pick up some points. I don't think I can recommend it for any other reason.
Then on to the San Diego airport to stow the car and connect with the shuttle for the short trip across the border into Mexico for a week at Rancho La Puerta. This is where this adventure really got started. Many months ago, I said that when I changed my relationship with work (a more flexible term than " when I retired "), I would like to mark the transition by going to someplace like Rancho for some decompression and attitude adjustment. DH proposed that we drive down, and that was the inspiration for The Great North American Road Trip.
After a week of hiking, hours of yoga and swimming every day, vegetarian meals and no alcohol (coffee ok, thanks be) in a beautiful setting with glorious weather, I feel like I have somebody else's back...somebody much younger and lighter. I need to figure out how to extend the loan!
Back in the car, we head to the ocean and spend the day with friends in DelMar and Carlsbad. And finish the day in Santa Monica, thankful we only have to negotiate Los Angeles traffic once on this trip. We toast our re-entry into the real world with a glass of sparkling wine at Shutters on the Beach and a walk along the pier to the end of Route 66 under the supermoon.
(We are not staying at Shutters, sadly. We have a free room on points at the Marriott, so at least the price is right and we have access to the better bar down the beach)
Day 17 - 24 Baja California (Rancho La Puerta)
Day 25 - Santa Monica
We haven't fallen off the face of the earth since the last posting, but it does feel like we have travelled through several realities. Our drive to Palm Springs from Las Vegas and our overnight stay there was unremarkable, apart from some interesting bits of the old Route 66, which we appeared to be sharing with every motorcyclist in all adjoining states. We also had a chance to break out the picnic kit for the first time, stocked up at the Whole Foods in Las Vegas and enjoyed in a park in Twentynine Palms. We stayed at the Best Western Las Brisas to pick up some points. I don't think I can recommend it for any other reason.
Then on to the San Diego airport to stow the car and connect with the shuttle for the short trip across the border into Mexico for a week at Rancho La Puerta. This is where this adventure really got started. Many months ago, I said that when I changed my relationship with work (a more flexible term than " when I retired "), I would like to mark the transition by going to someplace like Rancho for some decompression and attitude adjustment. DH proposed that we drive down, and that was the inspiration for The Great North American Road Trip.
After a week of hiking, hours of yoga and swimming every day, vegetarian meals and no alcohol (coffee ok, thanks be) in a beautiful setting with glorious weather, I feel like I have somebody else's back...somebody much younger and lighter. I need to figure out how to extend the loan!
Back in the car, we head to the ocean and spend the day with friends in DelMar and Carlsbad. And finish the day in Santa Monica, thankful we only have to negotiate Los Angeles traffic once on this trip. We toast our re-entry into the real world with a glass of sparkling wine at Shutters on the Beach and a walk along the pier to the end of Route 66 under the supermoon.
(We are not staying at Shutters, sadly. We have a free room on points at the Marriott, so at least the price is right and we have access to the better bar down the beach)
May 9th, 2012, 06:27 PM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 26 - 27 Santa Barbara
Our morning in Santa Monica was another study in contrasts. We took an early morning walk down the waterfront to Venice Beach and had breakfast at a sidewalk cafe. A shelter nearby had just opened its doors for the morning, and we got to see some of Venice Beach's more colorful characters beginning their day. Then we arrived by accident at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, with an impressive range of prepared food and organic produce, lots of young families and little girls delighting in pony rides. Different planets, only blocks apart.
Santa Barbara is one of the "new" places we are visiting this trip. You know those places you go where there may not be a lot of action and sights, but you feel like you could settle in for weeks or months? That's the way we felt about Santa Barbara. It didn't hurt that we stayed at the Simpson House inn, on the recommendation of our friend KDB. We had a small room and a big sun deck, which was perfect for the weather. We really loved the small parks and big gardens, the Spanish colonial architecture, and the very human scale of the city. The land use controls must be ferocious. Our pre- breakfast walk took us to a very different mission than the one the day before, for a prolonged session of smelling the roses. Irises are almost spent, but everything else is flourishing.
We even loved the Educated Car Wash, we have nothing like that at home. And after 3700 miles on the car at this point, it was welcome.
Tomorrow we are off to one of our "old" favorites, Big Sur. Looking forward to foggy mornings and wild turkeys.
Our morning in Santa Monica was another study in contrasts. We took an early morning walk down the waterfront to Venice Beach and had breakfast at a sidewalk cafe. A shelter nearby had just opened its doors for the morning, and we got to see some of Venice Beach's more colorful characters beginning their day. Then we arrived by accident at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, with an impressive range of prepared food and organic produce, lots of young families and little girls delighting in pony rides. Different planets, only blocks apart.
Santa Barbara is one of the "new" places we are visiting this trip. You know those places you go where there may not be a lot of action and sights, but you feel like you could settle in for weeks or months? That's the way we felt about Santa Barbara. It didn't hurt that we stayed at the Simpson House inn, on the recommendation of our friend KDB. We had a small room and a big sun deck, which was perfect for the weather. We really loved the small parks and big gardens, the Spanish colonial architecture, and the very human scale of the city. The land use controls must be ferocious. Our pre- breakfast walk took us to a very different mission than the one the day before, for a prolonged session of smelling the roses. Irises are almost spent, but everything else is flourishing.
We even loved the Educated Car Wash, we have nothing like that at home. And after 3700 miles on the car at this point, it was welcome.
Tomorrow we are off to one of our "old" favorites, Big Sur. Looking forward to foggy mornings and wild turkeys.
May 9th, 2012, 06:32 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Technical notes! Thanks to emalloy and Lee Ann for photo suggestions. I'm travelling with just an iPad, and while I know it can be done, I find managing pictures on it to be painful. So the gallery may have to wait until I am home with my PC. Thanks for the interest!
We are doing well with the parks and hiking, less so with the wine by the glass, especially as we explored Santa Barbara Pinot Noir.
We are doing well with the parks and hiking, less so with the wine by the glass, especially as we explored Santa Barbara Pinot Noir.
May 14th, 2012, 05:22 PM
#34
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 28 - 30 Big Sur, CA
This started out with a feeling of " you can't go home again". No fog, no turkeys!
We have stayed a few times at the Ventana, and we were really looking forward to this visit. The last time we had tried to go a few years ago, the highway was closed (a not infrequent hazard on this route) so we never made it. The inn has changed hands since our last visit, and it has a more corporate style. This has resulted in some upgrading, but we kind of liked the old funkier feel. And there was a big bicycle tour group with us on the first day that made the pools crowded and noisy -- relative to our previous visits, which memory has turned into splendidly tranquil and solitary idylls.
We decided to splurge on dinner across the highway at Sierra Mar in the Post Ranch. It hangs over the ocean, the setting is spectacular and we thought we deserved the sunset view. The meal was probably the poorest cost/value investment of our trip. We spent the sunset hour in the bar waiting for our table. It was too cold and windy to have the drink outside (that part I can't blame on the restaurant). DH asked for cab sauv, and the bartender gave him a glass of the house "signature" wine without offering options, or a sampling, or the price, which turned out to be $30. Tacky. Our table, when it was available, was shoehorned into a wedge that had us sitting nearly on top of a poor fellow eating on his own just a couple of steps down. We like modernist/minimalist cuisine, which is this restaurant's menu, but most of our meal just seemed mundane and mingy. (DH demurs on the salmon, which he thought was great. I am determined to be crabby.)
But on to the main business. We hit all three state parks in the area, as well as Pfeiffer Beach. Too early in the season for the footbridge at Andrew Molera, and I wasn't up for wading (the water is COLD, but it didn't seem to faze the Australians who were on the trail with us) so we just did the short but dramatic Headlands trail. The deterioration in the state park's maintenance capacity was evident at Big Sur Pfeiffer State Park. There are no loop trails that actually loop. The connections were broken in the flooding/land slides in 2008/9 and have yet to be restored. And while we have been travelling here, the news is that the state government is proposing to close about a third of its parks. Seems a shame if that comes to pass. A different picture entirely at Point Lobos ( which is a state park reserve, not a park, although I am unclear on the distinction). It is closer to Monterey and appears to be well-supported by private investment and volunteers. I was thrilled to see the harbour seal nursury beach in active use. This is more of a ramble around the headlands and cypress stands than a hike, but we enjoyed it enormously. The spring flowers, especially the poppies, add to the palette of blue, green and grey.
The Restaurant at Ventana has benefitted from the recent upgrading, we thought the food was really good. And certainly more reasonable (and friendly) than the place across the highway! And there was a very nice yoga class offered every morning. At the end of it, we are reconciled to change and continue to hold a special love for this special place. And I am rewarded with fog on our final morning that softens the landscape as we take our leave.
This started out with a feeling of " you can't go home again". No fog, no turkeys!
We have stayed a few times at the Ventana, and we were really looking forward to this visit. The last time we had tried to go a few years ago, the highway was closed (a not infrequent hazard on this route) so we never made it. The inn has changed hands since our last visit, and it has a more corporate style. This has resulted in some upgrading, but we kind of liked the old funkier feel. And there was a big bicycle tour group with us on the first day that made the pools crowded and noisy -- relative to our previous visits, which memory has turned into splendidly tranquil and solitary idylls.
We decided to splurge on dinner across the highway at Sierra Mar in the Post Ranch. It hangs over the ocean, the setting is spectacular and we thought we deserved the sunset view. The meal was probably the poorest cost/value investment of our trip. We spent the sunset hour in the bar waiting for our table. It was too cold and windy to have the drink outside (that part I can't blame on the restaurant). DH asked for cab sauv, and the bartender gave him a glass of the house "signature" wine without offering options, or a sampling, or the price, which turned out to be $30. Tacky. Our table, when it was available, was shoehorned into a wedge that had us sitting nearly on top of a poor fellow eating on his own just a couple of steps down. We like modernist/minimalist cuisine, which is this restaurant's menu, but most of our meal just seemed mundane and mingy. (DH demurs on the salmon, which he thought was great. I am determined to be crabby.)
But on to the main business. We hit all three state parks in the area, as well as Pfeiffer Beach. Too early in the season for the footbridge at Andrew Molera, and I wasn't up for wading (the water is COLD, but it didn't seem to faze the Australians who were on the trail with us) so we just did the short but dramatic Headlands trail. The deterioration in the state park's maintenance capacity was evident at Big Sur Pfeiffer State Park. There are no loop trails that actually loop. The connections were broken in the flooding/land slides in 2008/9 and have yet to be restored. And while we have been travelling here, the news is that the state government is proposing to close about a third of its parks. Seems a shame if that comes to pass. A different picture entirely at Point Lobos ( which is a state park reserve, not a park, although I am unclear on the distinction). It is closer to Monterey and appears to be well-supported by private investment and volunteers. I was thrilled to see the harbour seal nursury beach in active use. This is more of a ramble around the headlands and cypress stands than a hike, but we enjoyed it enormously. The spring flowers, especially the poppies, add to the palette of blue, green and grey.
The Restaurant at Ventana has benefitted from the recent upgrading, we thought the food was really good. And certainly more reasonable (and friendly) than the place across the highway! And there was a very nice yoga class offered every morning. At the end of it, we are reconciled to change and continue to hold a special love for this special place. And I am rewarded with fog on our final morning that softens the landscape as we take our leave.
May 14th, 2012, 05:26 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 31 - 32 Yosemite NP
So you would think, with all this time and flexibility, that we would have avoided coming to Yosemite on a weekend. Think again! We were out of luck for accommodation in the park, stayed at a motel in El Portal just outside the gate. This proved to be lucky, because it meant we could be at our chosen hike, Vernal Falls, well ahead of the throngs we crossed paths with on our way down. The hike is amazing. It sounds short, just 1.5 miles, but it climbs about 1000 feet over that time, and as some of that feels like it is through the waterfall, footing is a bit tricky. The morning light in the canyon was magical. At several points, we were encircled by rainbows...I don't think the pictures will turn out, but I don't think I will forget that. Some people we crossed on the way down reported seeing bears. We didn't. I am ok with that.
Finishing the hike early, we had time to drive through the park to the main iconic sites--Tunnel View, Mariposa Grove, Glacier Peak. Of course, all the falls are at their most spectacular with spring runoff and the dogwoods are flowering. The most (only?) appealing feature of our hotel is that it backs onto the Merced River, so we have the best possible white noise as a background to sleep.
I have not visited Yosemite before, DH did as a child. It is impressive, to be sure. And the attraction is obvious if you are a serious backwoods type, or a rock climber, or travelling with a family and looking for some accessible wilderness. As we are none of the above, it is a less obvious option for a return visit.
So you would think, with all this time and flexibility, that we would have avoided coming to Yosemite on a weekend. Think again! We were out of luck for accommodation in the park, stayed at a motel in El Portal just outside the gate. This proved to be lucky, because it meant we could be at our chosen hike, Vernal Falls, well ahead of the throngs we crossed paths with on our way down. The hike is amazing. It sounds short, just 1.5 miles, but it climbs about 1000 feet over that time, and as some of that feels like it is through the waterfall, footing is a bit tricky. The morning light in the canyon was magical. At several points, we were encircled by rainbows...I don't think the pictures will turn out, but I don't think I will forget that. Some people we crossed on the way down reported seeing bears. We didn't. I am ok with that.
Finishing the hike early, we had time to drive through the park to the main iconic sites--Tunnel View, Mariposa Grove, Glacier Peak. Of course, all the falls are at their most spectacular with spring runoff and the dogwoods are flowering. The most (only?) appealing feature of our hotel is that it backs onto the Merced River, so we have the best possible white noise as a background to sleep.
I have not visited Yosemite before, DH did as a child. It is impressive, to be sure. And the attraction is obvious if you are a serious backwoods type, or a rock climber, or travelling with a family and looking for some accessible wilderness. As we are none of the above, it is a less obvious option for a return visit.
May 16th, 2012, 07:21 AM
#36
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 33 - 34 Calistoga CA
Day 35 Eureka, CA
Eureka! I just wanted to stay here for the sound of it. The older historical features of this former lumber and military HQ are more interesting than the drive into town might suggest.
We have made the transition from the southern to the northern legs of our tour over the last couple of days. The weather has turned grey and cooler for the first time since we left a month ago. It is hard to believe we are just past the mid-point of the adventure in term of both time and distance.
We spent last evening taking advantage of the great laundry here at the Best Western to swap out the suitcases, stowing linens and hiking clothes and digging out jeans and jackets. We "dined in" on supermarket rotisserie chicken. It seemed like the most appealing option, but we didn't do a lot of exploration, so that may be an unfair judgement.
We had a bottle of champion Navarro muscat blank, picked up in a return visit to this wonderful Anderson valley winery on our drive across from Napa.
In Calistoga, we stayed at the Indian Springs to take the waters and the mud baths. This resort too has been spruced up since our last visit. That's what happens when you don't come back but every 10 or 15 years. Calistoga is our favorite of the Napa/Sonoma towns, less twee than some of the others, and lots of great eating and drinking within stumbling distance.
Everything north of Mendocino is new to me. The drive through the Avenue of the Giants, a redwood lined secondary road, was stunning. Looking forward to a couple of days of redwoods and sand dunes in Oregon as we make our way to Portland.
Day 35 Eureka, CA
Eureka! I just wanted to stay here for the sound of it. The older historical features of this former lumber and military HQ are more interesting than the drive into town might suggest.
We have made the transition from the southern to the northern legs of our tour over the last couple of days. The weather has turned grey and cooler for the first time since we left a month ago. It is hard to believe we are just past the mid-point of the adventure in term of both time and distance.
We spent last evening taking advantage of the great laundry here at the Best Western to swap out the suitcases, stowing linens and hiking clothes and digging out jeans and jackets. We "dined in" on supermarket rotisserie chicken. It seemed like the most appealing option, but we didn't do a lot of exploration, so that may be an unfair judgement.
We had a bottle of champion Navarro muscat blank, picked up in a return visit to this wonderful Anderson valley winery on our drive across from Napa.
In Calistoga, we stayed at the Indian Springs to take the waters and the mud baths. This resort too has been spruced up since our last visit. That's what happens when you don't come back but every 10 or 15 years. Calistoga is our favorite of the Napa/Sonoma towns, less twee than some of the others, and lots of great eating and drinking within stumbling distance.
Everything north of Mendocino is new to me. The drive through the Avenue of the Giants, a redwood lined secondary road, was stunning. Looking forward to a couple of days of redwoods and sand dunes in Oregon as we make our way to Portland.
May 16th, 2012, 07:38 AM
#37
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,904
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking forward to the northern part of CA that I haven't been to yet.
I also agree with your take on Yosemite. Maybe it was the hype, but I was expecting something much better and hope to get back another time to see if I just didn't get it. We were there in April and it is lovely, the waterfalls were beautiful, but not more spectacular than some in Hawaii or Yellowstone IMHO and the crowds were terrible in the valley.
I also agree with your take on Yosemite. Maybe it was the hype, but I was expecting something much better and hope to get back another time to see if I just didn't get it. We were there in April and it is lovely, the waterfalls were beautiful, but not more spectacular than some in Hawaii or Yellowstone IMHO and the crowds were terrible in the valley.
May 17th, 2012, 06:34 AM
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 36
Redwoods National/State Park CA
Coos Bay OR
My favorite park, so far. 1500 year old trees, a few elk, trails that muffle and soften sound rather than amplifying it, and it's free...what's not to like? These are more like spiritual strolls than demanding physical challenges, but we spent a few hours at it so hopefully traded off intensity for distance. We saw a grand total of two other people on the trails (ok, maybe 4 because we saw them twice) and a small crew dealing with a falling tree, so we got to learn a bit about the forest management.
Emalloy, I was thinking even before I saw your post about the contrast with Yosemite. Lots of big spectacle and glamour at Yosemite. No drama at Redwoods, but a more satisfying experience for some of us, and maybe for you too!
Coos Bay mostly a convenient place to stop, but we found a great little restaurant, the Empire Cafe. All fresh and "home-made". Oysters and salmon nicely handled and served with 2 vegetables, which we appreciated. Road food tends to be a fiber-free zone. Huckleberries and blueberries as a sauce or dessert filling. Yum. And we picked up a bottle of 2004 Castello Volpaia that was being cleared out at a good price. Saves us a trip to Italy.
Redwoods National/State Park CA
Coos Bay OR
My favorite park, so far. 1500 year old trees, a few elk, trails that muffle and soften sound rather than amplifying it, and it's free...what's not to like? These are more like spiritual strolls than demanding physical challenges, but we spent a few hours at it so hopefully traded off intensity for distance. We saw a grand total of two other people on the trails (ok, maybe 4 because we saw them twice) and a small crew dealing with a falling tree, so we got to learn a bit about the forest management.
Emalloy, I was thinking even before I saw your post about the contrast with Yosemite. Lots of big spectacle and glamour at Yosemite. No drama at Redwoods, but a more satisfying experience for some of us, and maybe for you too!
Coos Bay mostly a convenient place to stop, but we found a great little restaurant, the Empire Cafe. All fresh and "home-made". Oysters and salmon nicely handled and served with 2 vegetables, which we appreciated. Road food tends to be a fiber-free zone. Huckleberries and blueberries as a sauce or dessert filling. Yum. And we picked up a bottle of 2004 Castello Volpaia that was being cleared out at a good price. Saves us a trip to Italy.
