Chile-Argentina-Patagonia trip report
Jun 10th, 2006, 05:32 PM
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Chile-Argentina-Patagonia trip report
This report is overdue but I’m posting it in case any of this is helpful. Thanks to all those who responded to my initial posting when I traveled in mid-April to Argentina & Chile/Patagonia. If you love the outdoors, Patagonia is a must. If you're pressed for time and can only get to a few places in Patagonia, I recommend Torres del Paine and El Calafate. I hear that El Chalten is also terrific.
Buenos Aires (Sat-Tues): Stayed at Hotel Plaza Francia in La Recoleta – simple, clean rooms (but hotel interiors needs updating), free Internet and breakfast included, helpful staff, terrific location in La Recoleta (steps from some of the major attractions in Buenos Aires). Metered cab from airport to hotel was approx. 51 pesos. Generally, I used cabs to get around in Buenos Aires, which was fine except for one incident in San Telmo with a cab driver who pretended he didn’t have change, etc. (I would be wary of cabs in San Telmo because they know the place is full of tourists). I changed some currency at the airport, which was a mistake – better rates at the banks and even better just using ATMs.
Highlights: Eternautus city tour for a good, quick, introductory tour; the outdoor fairs and just strolling around different neighborhoods (La Recoleta and La Boca fair on Sat. and San Telmo fair on Sunday); outdoor tango shows in San Telmo fair; Museo MALBA (sleek museum with amazing collection of Latin American art); concert at the Teatro Colon (I got last minute upper tier tickets right before the concert for roughly $17 US but the acoustics were great; if you want better seating, get tickets at least by the afternoon before the show); Japanese Garden in Palermo; dining in Palermo, which has plenty of great restaurants and boutique shops. Good places to eat: Olsen for brunch (Palermo), Bar 6 (Palermo), La Biela (Recoleta), El Desnivel (San Telmo).
Tango shows: I went to the shows at Esquina de Carlos Gardel and Gran Café Tortoni. I recommend Carlos Gardel if you’re looking for a formal, theatrical show – it’s a great venue and had plenty of amazing dancers. Dinner was fine but I would just see the show. The show at Gran Café Tortoni is cheaper, more casual, pretty good but not terrific. The best tango I saw was outdoors at the San Telmo Street fair on Sunday. Fellow travelers I ran into recommended Bar Sur for an excellent, interactive show.
Santiago (Tues-Thurs): Stayed at Hotel Orly in Providencia, which was a charming bed-and-breakfast type of place with warm and helpful staff; connected to a great café called Cafetto. Tourism counter at the airport recommended that I take the shared-vans (TransVip) to my hotel instead of a cab which was a great recommendation – the ride was approx. $8US. I did not take any cabs in Santiago (no need to because of the convenient and easy subway I took to get around the city).
Highlights: Excursiones Turis Tour (Hotel Orly also recommended About Chile) introductory city tour which hits most of the top tourist spots (Patricio was a great guide) – but this tour did not include taking the funicular up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal, which I recommend even if the smog that the city is known for obscures the view; La Chascona (one of Neruda’s homes); Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino; a vineyard tour (there are many to choose from, I went on a half-day one to Undurraga); craft shops and restaurants in Bellavista; Azul Profundo and Esta Aqui Coco for seafood, Cafetto for dessert and coffee.
Patagonia/Torres Del Paine National Park (Thurs-Mon): breathtaking and awe-inspiring destination of a lifetime – words and photos cannot fully describe. This is where I splurged – stayed at the Explora Lodge, which was expensive but worth it for me because I was a solo traveler and didn’t have time before my trip to figure out the logistics for hiking the “W Circuit” (which I hear is the hike to do here). If you’re looking for pampering luxury, Torres Del Paine is not for you, but if you love the outdoors, you’re active and want a comfortable, beautiful, peaceful place to stay with wonderful tour guides, Explora is a terrific option. Only very minor drawbacks of Explora: there isn't much diversity among the guests -- mostly couples/families from the U.S.; the size of the group or different fitness levels of the members of the group for the hikes may not always be ideal.
Patagonia/El Calafate (Mon-Tues): Spectacular, scenic drive to El Calafate from Cerro Castillo. Stayed at America del Sur Hostel, which is a great budget option if you don’t mind staying at a youth hostel – friendly, enthusiastic, helpful, English-speaking staff; spectacular view of the lake; clean and simple rooms, on top of the hill on the edge of the main commercial part of the town but scenic; can rent bikes directly from the hostel; great for meeting other travelers. Make sure to see the lake (I think it was Lago Argentino) at sunset. The highlight was Glacier Perito Moreno in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares – absolutely incredible glacier and beautiful park with dramatic views. Got there at sunrise, which I recommend if the weather is good. The drive from the park was breathtaking.
Patagonia/Bariloche (Tues-Thurs): Bariloche is aptly described as Argentina’s Swiss Alps. More touristy, less remote than other parts of Patagonia but there are still some scenic and amazing landscapes. Stayed at the Hotel Tres Reyes, a conveniently located-budget option with friendly staff. I only had time to squeeze in the Teleferico Cerro Otto funicular (stop for a snack at the revolving restaurant on top which has terrific panoramic views) and the full-day La Isla Victoria/Parques Nacionales boat tour, both of which I highly recommend. You can pick up the Teleferico tickets easily in one of the various booths in town, but I used a travel agent for the boat tour. The agent I relied on for this leg of the trip was Mayra Brill (recommended by others on Fodors postings) – my understanding is that she specializes in Argentina. She was great and very quick in responding to e-mails. Her e-mail is [email protected]. If you can’t speak Spanish, make sure to let her know when she selects tour operators for you because in Bariloche, there aren’t many English-speaking guides, hotel operators, etc., so this is the place where I used most of my Spanish.
Buenos Aires (Sat-Tues): Stayed at Hotel Plaza Francia in La Recoleta – simple, clean rooms (but hotel interiors needs updating), free Internet and breakfast included, helpful staff, terrific location in La Recoleta (steps from some of the major attractions in Buenos Aires). Metered cab from airport to hotel was approx. 51 pesos. Generally, I used cabs to get around in Buenos Aires, which was fine except for one incident in San Telmo with a cab driver who pretended he didn’t have change, etc. (I would be wary of cabs in San Telmo because they know the place is full of tourists). I changed some currency at the airport, which was a mistake – better rates at the banks and even better just using ATMs.
Highlights: Eternautus city tour for a good, quick, introductory tour; the outdoor fairs and just strolling around different neighborhoods (La Recoleta and La Boca fair on Sat. and San Telmo fair on Sunday); outdoor tango shows in San Telmo fair; Museo MALBA (sleek museum with amazing collection of Latin American art); concert at the Teatro Colon (I got last minute upper tier tickets right before the concert for roughly $17 US but the acoustics were great; if you want better seating, get tickets at least by the afternoon before the show); Japanese Garden in Palermo; dining in Palermo, which has plenty of great restaurants and boutique shops. Good places to eat: Olsen for brunch (Palermo), Bar 6 (Palermo), La Biela (Recoleta), El Desnivel (San Telmo).
Tango shows: I went to the shows at Esquina de Carlos Gardel and Gran Café Tortoni. I recommend Carlos Gardel if you’re looking for a formal, theatrical show – it’s a great venue and had plenty of amazing dancers. Dinner was fine but I would just see the show. The show at Gran Café Tortoni is cheaper, more casual, pretty good but not terrific. The best tango I saw was outdoors at the San Telmo Street fair on Sunday. Fellow travelers I ran into recommended Bar Sur for an excellent, interactive show.
Santiago (Tues-Thurs): Stayed at Hotel Orly in Providencia, which was a charming bed-and-breakfast type of place with warm and helpful staff; connected to a great café called Cafetto. Tourism counter at the airport recommended that I take the shared-vans (TransVip) to my hotel instead of a cab which was a great recommendation – the ride was approx. $8US. I did not take any cabs in Santiago (no need to because of the convenient and easy subway I took to get around the city).
Highlights: Excursiones Turis Tour (Hotel Orly also recommended About Chile) introductory city tour which hits most of the top tourist spots (Patricio was a great guide) – but this tour did not include taking the funicular up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal, which I recommend even if the smog that the city is known for obscures the view; La Chascona (one of Neruda’s homes); Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino; a vineyard tour (there are many to choose from, I went on a half-day one to Undurraga); craft shops and restaurants in Bellavista; Azul Profundo and Esta Aqui Coco for seafood, Cafetto for dessert and coffee.
Patagonia/Torres Del Paine National Park (Thurs-Mon): breathtaking and awe-inspiring destination of a lifetime – words and photos cannot fully describe. This is where I splurged – stayed at the Explora Lodge, which was expensive but worth it for me because I was a solo traveler and didn’t have time before my trip to figure out the logistics for hiking the “W Circuit” (which I hear is the hike to do here). If you’re looking for pampering luxury, Torres Del Paine is not for you, but if you love the outdoors, you’re active and want a comfortable, beautiful, peaceful place to stay with wonderful tour guides, Explora is a terrific option. Only very minor drawbacks of Explora: there isn't much diversity among the guests -- mostly couples/families from the U.S.; the size of the group or different fitness levels of the members of the group for the hikes may not always be ideal.
Patagonia/El Calafate (Mon-Tues): Spectacular, scenic drive to El Calafate from Cerro Castillo. Stayed at America del Sur Hostel, which is a great budget option if you don’t mind staying at a youth hostel – friendly, enthusiastic, helpful, English-speaking staff; spectacular view of the lake; clean and simple rooms, on top of the hill on the edge of the main commercial part of the town but scenic; can rent bikes directly from the hostel; great for meeting other travelers. Make sure to see the lake (I think it was Lago Argentino) at sunset. The highlight was Glacier Perito Moreno in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares – absolutely incredible glacier and beautiful park with dramatic views. Got there at sunrise, which I recommend if the weather is good. The drive from the park was breathtaking.
Patagonia/Bariloche (Tues-Thurs): Bariloche is aptly described as Argentina’s Swiss Alps. More touristy, less remote than other parts of Patagonia but there are still some scenic and amazing landscapes. Stayed at the Hotel Tres Reyes, a conveniently located-budget option with friendly staff. I only had time to squeeze in the Teleferico Cerro Otto funicular (stop for a snack at the revolving restaurant on top which has terrific panoramic views) and the full-day La Isla Victoria/Parques Nacionales boat tour, both of which I highly recommend. You can pick up the Teleferico tickets easily in one of the various booths in town, but I used a travel agent for the boat tour. The agent I relied on for this leg of the trip was Mayra Brill (recommended by others on Fodors postings) – my understanding is that she specializes in Argentina. She was great and very quick in responding to e-mails. Her e-mail is [email protected]. If you can’t speak Spanish, make sure to let her know when she selects tour operators for you because in Bariloche, there aren’t many English-speaking guides, hotel operators, etc., so this is the place where I used most of my Spanish.
Aug 10th, 2006, 12:02 PM
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How did you transfer from Explora to El Calafate?
We are staying at Explora and would then like transfer to the Chile-Argentina border at Cerro Castillo; and then be met and transferred by private vehicle to the airport in Calafate for our flight to Buenos Aires.
Did you arrange that with Explora or is there a travel agent that you used?
Thanks.
We are staying at Explora and would then like transfer to the Chile-Argentina border at Cerro Castillo; and then be met and transferred by private vehicle to the airport in Calafate for our flight to Buenos Aires.
Did you arrange that with Explora or is there a travel agent that you used?
Thanks.
