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Trip to CR: Did I bite off more than I can chew?

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Trip to CR: Did I bite off more than I can chew?

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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 11:59 AM
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Trip to CR: Did I bite off more than I can chew?

I'm beginning to have serious second thoughts about our May trip to CR. We've got nine nights planned, three in Arenal, four in Osa at BdC and 2 around San Jose at the tail ends.

I consider myself a moderately adventurous person. When all is said and done, I like my creature comforts. After reading a few blogs about CR trips and getting advice from a friend who just returned, I'm worried we've bitten off way more than we can chew.

Fears: car rental problems, crime, Gringo tax, CR drivers, trip logistics seem stressful, no recourse if victim of crime, bats flying in my face (happened to someone I know), declining BdC reviews on tripadvisor.com, etc.

Any thoughts - are these common fears? Did any of you feel this way, then went and loved it? I'm not usually this hesitant or unadventurous, but for some reason this trip has me on edge. I can't put my finger on it.

If we bail, we lose very little $ at this point - only the $ to re-deposit our FF miles and our NatureAir flight (which was dirt cheap anyways).

I'm not looking for anyone to tell me what to do, just looking to see if anyone else has had these same hesitations. Please, no flaming posts calling me a "chicken" or some such.
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 12:42 PM
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I think people need to stretch their comfort zones when they travel. If you've always stayed at five star resorts, need pampering and exceptional service, you won't like your trip.

Where else have you been? Costa Rica was our first trip to Central America. We did Arenal, Monteverde and Manual Antonio with a rental car. There were some stressors, but we had a wonderful time. Next trip was the Osa, it was wonderful, even though our luggage was lost for a day.

Personally, the biggest stress was the driving. If that bothers you, look into a private driver or Interbus.

Crime happens everywhere. You're hearing more about crime in Costa Rica because more people are traveling there. If you decide to drive, don't leave your rental car with anything in it. Ever.

Our first trip I actually left a bag sitting beside the car at Si Como No in Manual Antonio. I had to pay to have it shipped home, but everything was there.

If what attracted you to Costa Rica was beautiful scenery, nice people, wildlife, and a bit of the feeling of stepping 'outside the box', go for it.
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 12:47 PM
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I could tell you I think all your fears are unfounded (which I do), but then if you are a victim of a crime, then . . .well, you get the picture.

The only thing you have to go on is the experiences of SO many people who have gone time and time again and have loved every single minute of it. Bosque del Cabo is nothing short of wonderful for most of us. I don't pay much heed to TripAdvisor and consider this forum to be more on the money regarding reviews. I do think you are hearing about things that VERY RARELY happen and letting them influence your thinking.

We don't even THINK about Gringo anything, tax or otherwise. We just go and enjoy ourselves.

Getting to and from Arenal in a car is a piece of cake with darned good roads. Yes, you do need to drive defensively--of course!

How about you write out your exact itinerary, times and everything and post it for us to look at. I'll bet we'll all see that the logistics aren't much of a problem. They don't sound like they would be. . .

You do know that you should fly to the Osa and not drive, right? That will save you a LOT of time and worry. You'll most likely want to catch an early a.m. flight down there? That usually involves being in the area the night before. . .you'll feel better when you know exactly what your plan is--down to the last little detail.

Do you have your domestic flights booked?

Your last couple of days will be marvelous if you will stay somewhere like Orquideas Inn and let their tour company (request Luis) take you to some of the high points in and around San Jose--it's a real treasure chest of sights and activities. That, too, will relieve some of your stress.
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 01:06 PM
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Here's our itinerary, it basically goes SJO-Arenal-SJO-PJ-SJO:

Day 1: Arrive SJO late evening, transfer to hotel (still unbooked)
Days 2-5: Arenal, drive back to San Jose on night 4 (overnight in same hotel as night one) for early morning Nature Air flight to PJ.
Days 6-9: Bosque Del Cabo
Day 10: Fly back to San Jose early morning, 2:30 flight home

Yes, our NatureAir flight is booked. I am perhaps freaking out for no good reason. I am not normally a five-star resort person, which is why my hesitation is sort of surprising to me. As weird as this sounds, I think I'm having second thoughts about BdC. It bothers me to be that close to the ocean but not be able to get in it or relax on it. Maybe I'd be better suited to try Iguana Lodge? Or should I just have BdC take us to the beach one day?
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 01:52 PM
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I was stressing about renting a car too, so I canceled the car and hired a driver.

When it's all said and done it will only be about $80 more for the week, and it's worth $80 to us not to have to get directions, keep an eye on our belongings, worry about breaking down or getting robbed and not having to return the car before our flight (I hate that!).

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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 01:56 PM
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Just wanted to add that we've always rented cars wherever we go, but I just didn't want to do it after reading some horror stories in CR, and after our last trip to Italy where every trip took about twice as long as we anticipated, we got lost AND we couldn't find parking in Florence. Renting the car was the only bad part of the trip.

It will be a lot more relaxing for both my husband and me if we leave the driving to a pro.
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 05:46 PM
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alw1977,
Probably not everyone is a BdC person, but I've not run into one of those yet!

It is important, though, that you enjoy hiking and nature, since there are those wonderful trails all around you, extensive, with lots of wildlife.

We, too, like to stay places where the beach is right in front of us, steps away. Who doesn't? But the BdC experience is really more about the wildlife, I'd say.

Getting to the ocean is no problem. It just involves hiking and wildlife viewing on the way! In fact, you should plan to hike down the Golfo Dulce Trail one day and spend the day exploring the 3 beaches on the Golfo side: Pan Dulce, Backwash, etc. Take a packed lunch, and arrange a pickup for your return. We usually leave on this trail about 10:00 or 10:30 in the a.m. and arrange a pick up about 4:00. The hike down is between an hour and an hour and a half.

We also like the steep hike down to the Pacific side (Pacific Trail). It is a puffer coming back up, but won't be a problem if you are in at least moderately good condition. This beach is not swimmable, but it is gorgeous and there are some nice tide pools. To your right, you can hike down to a trail that leads up to a wonderful waterfall. You can stand right under it. The waterfall trail is easy to miss, but I remember there being a little hut on the right just before the trail, and a small estuary that you'll cross.

The horseback riding with Miguel is an EXCELLENT way to spend a morning. He'll take you through the rainforest and down to the beach. Riding horses on the beach is always fun. It is truly amazing, and you'll see parts of the beach you wouldn't ordinarily see. There are SO many tours available out of BdC for you to do, but being on the property and exploring those trails is fun--and you pay so much to enjoy the property. I always hate to spend much time away from it!

One of these days, we'll stay at Iguana Lodge or someplace else down below in Puerto Jimenez and do those things there are to do down there. But while at BdC, we really like to just enjoy our lodging, the porch, the views, the hammocks, the trails, the food, the bar, the birds, the animals, etc. . . .

Hope this helps! Glad you have your reservations. I hope you'll go for it, and then tell us all what you thought! It sounds like a fun trip!
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 06:08 PM
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I won't call you a chicken! But I do think maybe you're reading too much I've never heard of Gringo tax and, as far as I know, haven't been a victim of it.

I know people hate the apples vs oranges comparison, but look at cnn.com headlines....murder, every day, everywhere. But in a country like CR, who got close to 2 million visitors last year, the occaisonal theft/robbery from rental cars gets written up like it's a war zone down there or something. Why not have a driver so you won't even have to worry about it? Taxis are plentiful, most tours include transport.

Bats swoop down on me where I live on my nightly walks constantly. People still keep coming to FL though.

I can't say I've had these hestitations, no. To me the excitement of having a live volcano outside my window or being woken up by howler monkeys or meeting such warm, friendly people pretty much quashes any vague 'something may happen' feelings.

As far as Iguana Lodge is concerned, though you'll have the beach right there I think you'll be sacrificing more than you gain imho. I haven't been there and I know it gets good reviews, but the accomodations strike me as much more basic than BdC, not to mention it lacks one of the biggest draws of BdC - land, which BDC has in spades (1000 acres or so). You can get someone to take you to the beach but it's much nicer to take the 90 min or so walk down the trail and then have someone pick you up.

I just posted a long answer to someone else tweaking about the TA reviews last night, so I will just bump that thread up again.
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Old Feb 8th, 2008, 08:21 PM
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I too had the exact same concerns.. especially about renting a car. After two weeks in Costa Rica this January(San Jose,Arenal, Guanacaste (Junquillal & Ostional).. I can honestly say that concerning crime I think I am more threatened in Salt Lake City.
We needed a car for the isolated areas that we stayed in. We were pulled over for speeding... but even that was a non-threatening nice experience.
Be alert.. but honestly America is a far more violent place than Costa Rica.. We were repeatly warned not to leave anything in our car.. so we didn't. And we avoided driving at night.. But I can not wait to return and I will get a car the next time too... Have a great time!
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Old Feb 9th, 2008, 03:23 AM
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Hi, alw - it seems like a lot of your concern is stemming from driving/crime/trip logistics, etc. I really think if you're that concerned, you should just hire private drivers. My husband has driven in Mexico and found it stressful; when we go to CR, he just wants to relax and enjoy the scenery, so we just hire drivers through our hotels. It's worked great for us - they can stay with your luggage if you see a point of interest, they recommend places to stop or eat, they know all the directions. For a lot of people, driving is part of the adventure, and they love it, but sometimes there's peace of mind in letting someone else do it, and I think it sounds like that might make you feel better.

Regarding BdC, we were there in July and adored it. I can't imagine there has been a huge change in just a few months. The food and service were excellent and the wildlife was amazing. Feel free to ask us any questions if we can help. We did have bats swooping around us on the trails because we stayed out too late one night watching the toucans. At first, I thought it was birds or butterflies, and then I realized, "Holy cow, those are bats!" And I just ran like heck. My husband started running after me, and we thought it was pretty funny. They didn't do anything to us, they're really just going after the little insects to eat. I am not a rugged or roughing it kind of gal, but CR has really sucked us in and now we're having a hard time going anywhere else.

Regarding Arenal, we loved it - seeing and hearing the volcano is one of the most amazing things we've ever done. And the Cano Negro tour is fabulous. Most people who go to CR return again and again, and I think that really says something, but only you know what's best for you.

If you get a chance, I'd spend a night at the Peace Lodge - it's the most unroughing it spot I've seen in CR, and you will feel truly pampered.
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Old Feb 9th, 2008, 10:45 AM
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Will be leaving for CR in a couple of weeks and the four of us are planning to rent an SUV at SJO and then head to Puerto Viejo for a few days and playing it by ear after that for a week. I'm intrigued by Nina's comments about not renting a vehicle but hiring a driver instead. Anyone care to share any experiences? What's the best way to hire a driver/guide?
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Old Feb 9th, 2008, 11:12 AM
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ira, we just hired our drivers through our hotels. When we booked, we just asked them how much to get from point A to point B, and they gave us the cost. It was about $120 to go from SJO to Arenal, and about $180 to from from Arenal to Manuel Antonio if that gives you an idea of costs. They can have someone at the airport waiting for you when you get off the plane, completely work around your schedule - it really gives you a lot of flexibility. All of our drivers were nice and drove air-conditioned modern vans with a lot of room. Another option is Interbus - we haven't done it, but it's really popular and gets good reviews as well.
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Old Feb 9th, 2008, 12:04 PM
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Ira, I can give you the email addresses of drivers that I found, mostly through this site and tripadvisor.

I ended up hiring Luis who came recommended by quite a few tripadvisor members, he also had the best prices.

[email protected]

Here are some other email addresses you can write to for quotes.

[email protected]

[email protected]

Also, if you post looking for drivers you'll probably get more names.

I'll let you know how it works out but I did check references and you don't pay until they pick you up.
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Old Feb 10th, 2008, 05:54 PM
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Thanks nina and volcanogirl---I'll check them out. Are they available to be booked right at SJO?

Also, I'm wondering about cell phone use in CR---understand that US cell phones don't work there. What do you recommend as far as staying in touch with our friends who may be in another part of CR as well as contacting folks here in the US?
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Old Feb 10th, 2008, 07:12 PM
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ira, you have to book them before your trip, but if you book them to pick you up in SJO, they will be there at the pre-appointed time. We've had flight delays of 2 hours and our drivers were still there waiting patiently for us.
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Old Feb 10th, 2008, 08:45 PM
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Just a couple of extra comments...I agree with everyone else about everything. Having done a similar itinerary last year, I don't think it's going to be too much for you, but I think you're just maybe focusing on some people's bad experiences rather than most people's good experiences. I wouldn't call myself or my husband adventurous travellers at all. We like the resort type vacation, but have been to several caribbean islands and have been to Mexico five times, so we travel fairly frequently. CR was the biggest adventure we've been on and it was awesome! We rented a car, and never felt unsafe, but we took all of the recommended precautions. We went to Arenal and were fascinated by the volcano as well as everything to do in the area. We drove back to the San Jose area, spent two nights at Peace Lodge, which we loved and then flew Sansa to BDC. The domestic flight was something new for us as well, and it too was an adventure! It was fascinating!

We enjoyed our time at BDC. It was incredibly relaxing and the wildlife was so abundant! The food was very good and we met some wonderful people there! Sure it would have been nice to have easier beach access, but we enjoyed some afternoons at their pool after hiking and felt it was a great way to spend our last few days in CR.

We enjoyed CR so much that we are returning this August with our two children - who I think will just love the country and find the wildlife amazing!

The other thing is - my husband and I just returned from a 6 day trip to Riviera Maya, which used to be our favorite destination. It's his type of vacation - very relaxing etc...and the entire time I was there, all I was thinking about was how much that trip didn't hold a candle to Costa Rica. While it served the purpose for getting away from it all - the wildlife, the landscape, the beauty in Costa Rica is just so hard to compare to!

Also - ira49, regarding cell phone service. We have tmobile, if you have a triband phone and interational roaming, you should be fine. Just check with your cell provider about adding international roaming, which with tmobile is no additional charge. And then see if your phone is an international phone - many of the newer models are. If so, as soon as you land, you should be automatically switched over to a carrier and be able to call out. However, it's expensive! About $2.00/minute! But to keep in touch at home for short calls or in an emergency, it's nice to know you can call home. We could get a signal most places except at BDC and in some valleys when we were driving.
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Old Feb 11th, 2008, 08:40 AM
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As far as Trip Advisor goes, there are several people from this forum that post on there also so I wouldn't be afraid of not getting good advice.

There is a "gringo tax" so to speak. Gringos do pay extra for the parks and some other things but it really isn't all that much. My son got a few breaks with his student ID when he was in college a few years ago.

Our favorite driver is [email protected]. We have been using him for several years and just love him and his family. He is a real nature lover and we can always count on him to find the birds for us. We have even traveled to Nicaragua and Panama with him.


Costa Rica is a lovely place. Bats well, that is part of it although in over 15 years I haven't had one fly in my face. Had one flying around in my house over my head here in Ohio once so it can happen anywhere.

The reviews on trip advisor do seem to be a group review by several people at the same time. There was one other one that I saw as well posted on another date but lets face it, BdC isn't for everyone-no place is. I ran into a family whose kids really weren't happy. They couldn't handle being without their computers, video games etc. and were quite vocal about it. Bosque is almost always full these days during the busier months and all things considered, a couple of unhappy reviews doesn't tell the whole picture.

We have been driving off and on over many years down there. I still don't feel comfortable and we are building a home right now and will have to drive more. Costa Ricans aren't known for their safe driving habits. We have used several transfer companies over the years (before Orlando mostly but recently used Interbus and I will be using Anywherecostarica next week to get to San Isidro) and they always seemed safe enough.

Hesitations? You would be surprised at how many people get on here and the other boards that are really nervous. My own sister was terrified that her grown daughter was traveling down there this past summer with her own teenage daughter and was sure they were going to get lost in the "jungle". Now that she has seen the beautiful pictures that my niece took she is feeling more comfortable. My family has always been concerned about my travels and I think I push their comfort levels a bit sometimes. Costa Rica is so much more developed and user friendly than people realize. Not to mention beautiful. There is a reason over a million people now travel there every year. It is a beautiful place!!!!! Now, forget all those worries and start enjoying the planning process. That is always my favorite part of my travels there.





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Old Feb 11th, 2008, 08:44 AM
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oops
Orlandos email is [email protected]
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Old Feb 11th, 2008, 03:10 PM
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You have to be a little suspicious when you read one negative review out of so many positive ones.

I have been corresponding by e-mail this past weekend with Kim, the owner of Bosque del Cabo. She and Phil are SO conscientious of how they run their hotel. They want everything to be right for their guests, and they go out of their way when there is a problem, making every effort to get it fixed as quickly as possible.

You can be sure that the review-er didn't tell the entire story. That is usually the case.

By the way, if anyone wants to see photos of the new plunge pool at Miramar, e-mail me at

[email protected]

It' beautiful! I didn't think there was much that could enhance that deck and its view, but the pool is definitely a nice touch.

Phil and Kim are always looking to improve their property. Yes, it is an expensive place to stay. BUT when I think of other places, such as Flor Blanca at Ste. Teresa, Four Seasons at Papagayo, and Casa Chameleon at Ste. Teresa/Malpais (all of which get top marks) which charge from $350 to $500 nightly, without food, I think, then the $400 per night we spend at Bosque del Cabo doesn't sound so bad. Not with 3 excellent meals per day. Not with the extensive trail system. For those who love wildlife, nature, hiking, pretty cabins, great views, a beautiful property, it's a fair price.

And look at the tours they offer: Phillip's Primary Forest Tour, Eduardo's & Carlos's Early Morning Birding Tour, Miguel's Horseback Riding, these are all about half the price you'd pay anywhere else in the country. And all are top notch excursions.

No, it isn't for everyone. You need to enjoy hiking trails and the possibility of seeing something "wild" around every bend in the trail. You need to be at least sort of okay with the unlocked doors. My mom wouldn't have gone for that, but we find it rather refreshing. It's for those who appreciate those special things about it, especially the fact that it allows one to see a part of Costa Rica that will probably not look the same in ten years (if present trends continue). Call it the last frontier.

As for the food, most of us will agree Maureen (she was cooking at the time the reviewers stayed) is fabulous and stands out there during the serving time proudly explaining every dish. She has trained with the best. About that time, though, she had just returned from being out of the country due to her mother's death. Perhaps when she returned, she had an "off" night. Who knows? I rather doubt that it wasn't as good as usual.

No, Kim didn't ask me to post this information. It just seemed fitting to be on the side of those who work so hard at their business and take such obvious pride in it. For them, I really do not believe it is about the money as it takes a LOT of it to maintain their 50 employees and keep the place not only "up", but improving. I hope they are doing well, also, though. Why shouldn't they?

I teach school and do a darned good job of it, if I do say so myself. However, I will tell you that THERE ARE DAYS when I'm not at my usual level of energy and enthusiasm. For whatever reasons. Those times are few and far between, and I never think of it as "slipping". It isn't. You just can't read much into one negative review (or even a few) out of hundreds.

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Old Feb 11th, 2008, 03:37 PM
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Thanks shillmac for the wonderful informative update on BDC. Glad to hear Maureen's back as I'm so ready for some delicious food! I loved that she always came out and explained all the dishes and spices and such in each one of them. She definitely adds a personal touch and takes pride in what she prepares.

I would love to see new pic's of the plunge pool! Please send.

alw -- I think you'll find yourself relaxing more, especially once you get there. Plus, there's always Zanax. Just kidding! I took my 10 year old there for 17 days by myself last year, first trip to CR, and had such a great time we're heading back on March 22nd. I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is to settle in. Everyone is so friendly!

Have a great trip!
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