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Trip report from 3 weeks in Argentina

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Trip report from 3 weeks in Argentina

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Old Jan 3rd, 2005 | 02:38 PM
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Trip report from 3 weeks in Argentina

My husband and I just returned from 3 weeks in Argentina on Thursday. We spent 2 nights in Iguazu, 7 nights in BA, 4 nights in Salta/Jujuy, 4 nights in Mendoza and 5 nights in El Calafate/El Chalten. We were on lodging budget of $100 or less a day and easily did it for $80 or less per day. Our warmest days were spent in BA and coolest in Patagonia.

Our nine hour flight arrived into Buenos Aires International at 8:30AM, we gathered our luggage and took a taxi to the domestic airport 45 minutes away. We flew to Iguazu and checked into the four star Hotel Cataratas. This was more like a 2 star anywhere else, but we were happy because it was clean and the AC worked well. The following day we were at the falls from the minute it opened at 8AM until it closed at 7PM. We started by taking a 20 minute ride on a 4x4 through a jungle trail until it ended at the rivers edge where we entered a speedboat. The boat flew down the river towards the first set of falls allowing us to take photos before moving forward into the falls and drenching us head to toe. As we went into it, we were in complete awe looking up at the roaring force coming towards us. It is an image that will remain in my mind forever. After the boat dropped us off, we hiked on an island close to the falls for about two hours. Then we began our ascent up the man-made walkways toward the top of the falls. We spent the rest of the day enjoying views from the top, taking the train to the largest waterfall, Devils Throat, and rafting back on a tranquil part of the river. We were lucky to see cayman and monkeys during this part of the day. We ended the day with a cocktail at the Sheraton while enjoying our final view of the falls. We decided not to go to the Brazilian side because a Visa for Americans costs $90 US per person. Even if you can get through without paying, there’s a chance they will charge you when trying to reenter Argentina. It’s not worth it for a couple of hours, plus everyone says the Argentina side is the best because of all the trails and you are closer to the falls. We were extremely satisfied with our experience.

We arrived in BA in the early afternoon and checked into our hotel at Loi Suites Arenales – www.loisuites.com.ar. We had a nice large, clean and quiet room with a king-size bed, bathroom with separate vanity and a fully stocked kitchen. They also gave us free use of a cell phone. The location was ideal because it was one block from Florida St. and Santa Fe, 4 blocks from the Colon Opera House and 8 blocks from the fashionable neighborhood of Recoleta. We paid $60/night includes all taxes and breakfast. The following 2 days, we took 2 half-day private tours in the morning from Eternautus (www.eternautus.com) that is led by historians from the University. I highly recommend this company for those who are interested in learning about the country and it’s people. In the afternoon we visited museums, the Japanese Garden, toured the Colon Opera House and wandered around the streets. We spent an evening at a tango show called Piazzolla and another evening at the Opera. Our best meals were at Bar Uriarte and 1880 Parrilla. After 5 nights in BA, we flew to Salta at 6AM.

Our private guide, AngelicaValdez de Zaleski, picked us up at the airport. We started our four-day journey south of Salta on Route #68 towards Cafayate, the wine area best known for its Torrontes grapes. Our first stop was at a small roadside restaurant that produces homemade goat cheese from the goats on the property. Our next visit was to the small, picturesque ghost town of Alemania, abandoned buildings and a train station are inhabited by a handful of artisans. In Cafayate we visited 3 vineyards for tastings and had lunch in the center of town. After a few hours we left for the village of Angastaco, our final destination to overnight. In the morning we hiked up a dry riverbed towards an overwhelming array of burnt orange and cream colored mountains. We also discovered what our guide said was an Indian burial site littered with shards of broken pottery. At midmorning it was time to leave for Cachi where we had a delicious lunch overlooking the town at Hosteria ACA. We arrived in Salta around 8:30Pm and checked into the Salta Hotel for the night. Our guide met us at our hotel at 8AM and we drove north to Jujuy. This day we saw beautiful mountains with as many colors as a rainbow called Cerro de Siete Colores near Purmamarca. After an excellent lunch at La Posta in Purmamarca we drove over a mountain pass towards the salt flats. At the top of the pass we stopped for photos at a monument marking about 14,000 feet and saw a herd of 20 or so wild vicunas run by us. These animals are the smallest of the llama family. There seemed to be a shimmer reflecting from the honeycombed patterned salt flats as we approached. After an hour we returned to charming village of Purmamarca where we retired for the evening. The next morning we drove to Tilcara to see a hilltop stone fortress with panoramic views of the valley below. Our next stop was Uquia where we purchased ceramics and visited a church with paintings of Angels holding guns. For the past two years, the artist who owns the ceramic store had promised to show our guide a secret spot with ancient rock carvings. This was our lucky day. We drove just outside of Humahuaca down a dusty gravel road to the Aguasapa Gorge and parked by a single tree with a donkey resting in the shade. After hiking 20 minutes down into the gorge, we saw a 20’ x 20’ flat rock wall with carvings of animals, people and geometric shapes. We felt privileged to have learned about this special place. Finally we drove through Humahuaca, which was nice, but over rated in my opinion. With a quick stop for lunch and shopping in Tilcara, we were back in Salta by 7pm. We enjoyed the dry breezy days and cool nights of this region. By the end of our trip, we discovered the best prices and selection of textiles and ceramics here. For our taste, we thought the Salta/Jujuy region offered the best food with more flavor and spices than the other regions. We highly recommend using our guide who has lived in this area her entire life, worked in the travel industry for over 15 years and speaks fluent English. Her e-mail is [email protected] and her cell phone number is 154088612. We flew to Mendoza at 9:30AM the next morning.

We landed in Mendoza around 2PM and picked up our rental car at Avis. Trying to follow the not-to-scale Avis map, we were lost in 10 minutes after leaving the airport and a couple of roundabouts offering dubious directions. We surprisingly made it to our Finca called Club Tapiz, www.tapiz.com, via back roads and the help of a local man giving directions in Castilliano, of which I speak only a few words. Club Tapiz is an old bodega that was converted into a 7 room boutique hotel a couple of years ago. It's surrounded by a lush vineyard with very old olive trees and apricot trees. There's a lovely pool, a spa offering massages for only $20/hour, wine and cheese every evening at 8:30PM and an excellent restaurant with one of the areas top chefs. We paid only $80/night including taxes and daily breakfast. We spent the first day getting lost on the way to tasting wines and lunch at 1884 Frances Mallman in Bodega Escorihuela. It seems that many streets do not have signs, some names on signs are spelled differently and there are 2-4 streets with the exact same name, so it is very easy to get lost driving in this city. That evening we dined at our finca after the nightly wine and cheese tasting. The next day we drove into the Andes toward the Chilean border and visited Parque Provincial Aconcagua to see the majestic Aconcagua Mountain, the highest peak outside of the Himalayas. A few kilometers down the mountain we stopped at Puente del Inca, an orange-yellow bridge that was formed by sulfer-bearing hot springs. After a full day we returned to Tapiz just in time for the nightly wine tasting and dinner. Our final morning was spent on a private tour of Tapiz winery about 20 minutes from the lodging. This was very unique because we were able to taste wine directly from the steel fermenting tanks. Our last dinner was in Mendoza at Bistro M at the Park Hyatt. Much to our surprise, this was the best beef we ate in Argentina. We flew to El Calafate at 9:30AM.


Our first day in El Calafate was Christmas on the Upsala Explorer Tour. The bus picked us up at 7AM and an hour later dropped us off at the dock on Lago Argentino to board our hundred passenger boat. We spent 2 hours on the milky blue lake gazing at magnificent snow peaked mountains, icebergs and Upsala Glacier. At this point we were given a choice to do one of three excursions: 4x4, horseback riding or hiking - we chose horseback riding. We were greeted by a gaucho on the shore who led us to the horse stables where he gave us leather chaps to wear during the ride. Our small group of six headed out into the vast Patagonian landscape dotted with yellow wildflowers and meandering streams. We spent about 3 hours riding in the stunning expanse of untouched beauty. We returned for a delicious asado lunch at Estancia Christina. We boarded our boat for a two hour cruise back to the bus ending in town around 8:30PM. We had an awful Christmas diner at La Posta restaurant that was highly recommended by our guidebook. Our next day was another full day tour to Perito Moreno Glacier with Hotel Los Glaciar’s “Alternative Tour” – www.glaciar.com. This tour takes you to an area without other tourists to hike along the shoreline towards the glacier. We returned to town around 5:30PM and did some shopping. We were shocked to see the $110 Peso asking price of the same type of sweater we purchased in Salta for only $20 Pesos. At this point we decided to hold back on our shopping spree. My husband went by bus to El Chalten the following morning and I flew back to BA for 2 nights to finish shopping. There was an $18 Peso per person departure tax from El Chalten Airport. In BA, I had a hard time finding any leather jackets, gloves, shoes or handbags in the style and quality I prefer. Even though the price for leather is cheaper, the quality reflects it. 2 nights later my husband met me in BA for our final Argentine dinner of parrilla, followed by coffee at Café Tortoni. As we left for the airport we noticed large pieces of paper flying out the windows of buildings. Our driver explained that the Argentine businesses make confetti of their paperwork from the year and toss it out the window to exit the current year and usher in the New Year. This was a memorable way to end our trip and end the year 2004.

Recommended restaurants:
BA- Parrilla 1880, Bar Uriarte, Bengal
Salta-El Solar de Convento
Purmamarca- La Posta
Cachi- Hosteria ACA
Mendoza- !884 Francis Mallman, Bistro M, Tapiz

Recommended lodging:
BA- Loi Suites Arenales
Salta- Hotel Salta
Mendoza- Club Tapiz

Recommended guides or tours:
BA- Eternautus
BA-Isabel - Travel Agent with Buenos Aires Tours www.buenosaires-tours.com
Salta- Angelica Valdez de Zaleski
El Calafate- Upsala Explorer
Nicci is offline  
Old Jan 3rd, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Nicci....Great trip report, Thank You!
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Old Jan 5th, 2005 | 06:13 AM
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Correction of internet address for recommended travel agent:
Isabel at www.buenosaires-tours.com.ar.
Sorry, I forgot the .ar at then end.

Nicci
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Old Jan 5th, 2005 | 06:33 AM
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This was an excellent trip report! How did you put your trip together? Did you use a travel service?
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Old Jan 5th, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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Hi mcmomx4

My husband and I queried through Fodors, Frommers and Lonely Planet forums. We did most of our research on-line and through guidebooks.

I just posted a message on the terrible travel agency we used- argentinago.com. I would NOT recommend using them unless you are looking for a headache.

We were eventually helped out by a wonderful local agent named Isabel with www.buenosaires-tours.com.ar. I would highly recommend contacting her for assistance.
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Old Jan 5th, 2005 | 08:52 PM
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Nicci:

You indicated that you flew from Mendoza to El Calafate. Did you go through BA or are there direct flights. I have not been able to find any direct flights but it seems a bit odd that they don't exists.

Thanks for your report.

TT
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Old Jan 6th, 2005 | 05:54 AM
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Nicci,
If you could only go to either Salta or Mendoza, which would you choose? I'll be there in winter as well. Thanks!
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Old Jan 6th, 2005 | 06:58 AM
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TallTree: All of our flights connected through BA. It was very exhausting considering we lost almost a full day each time we flew.

lindy_lee: Our favorite destination in Argentina was Salta/Jujuy. We highly recommend using our English speaking guide, Angelica. Without her, I don't know if it would have been the same. We met an Italian couple that ended up tagging along with us because they only had a driver, who was supposed to also be a guide, but did not speak English or Italian as the tour company promised. Plus their driver's vehicle broke down at one point where they had to push to get it going and they were without AC.
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Old Jan 6th, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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nicci-ex. report, thank you. going to arg. in march with group-want to add few more days in ba. and trip to igauzu. few questions pls-your airline usa to ba to usa?--airline to ig?--purchase tix in usa?--few details of second full day in ig? thanks
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Old Jan 6th, 2005 | 07:18 PM
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hello again--tried and tried to find web and e-mail isabel in ba. nothing worked; pls check and post again please
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Old Jan 7th, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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Hello Nicci

Can you tell me who you booked your Iguazu trip with? I like to know more about the speedboat ride in Iguazu.Was that a Package that include flight,hotel and boat ride? How much?
I booked a flight in March To Buenos Aires and would like to see Iguazu Falls.
Thankyou
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Old Jan 8th, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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Excellent report. For people interested in more in-depth experience in Mendoza--capital of the wine country, 3,000 ft. at the base of the Andes, check out www.amazingmendoza.com
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Old Jan 8th, 2005 | 04:13 PM
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Jimy: We used Delta direct from our hometown of Atlanta to BA. Not sure of the cost since we used 50k Delta Skymiles per person for this roundtrip flight. We flew Areolineas from BA to Iguazu and arrived around 5PM. Then we had one full day to see the falls. The next day we flew back to BA around 2PM so we just went into Puerto Igauzu to see Hito Tres Fronteras, check e-mail and eat lunch before going to the airport.

Jimy: Isabel's correct website address is www.buenosaires-tours.com.ar.

Sfphototraveller: We did not use a package to go to Iguazu. The flights and hotel were booked separately. Hotel was about $60US/per night and air was about $200US each. The speedboat ride does not need to be booked in advance since there's one every 15 minutes or so. We entered the park in the morning and signed up for the activities at a small booth near the entrance. Each speedboat carries 20 people that takes you up the river and into a couple of waterfalls. Plastic bags were handed out before hand to keep items dry. The cost was $30 Pesos each for the speedboat only. We chose a package that included 4x4 through the jungle for another $40 Pesos each and rafting back for $10 Pesos each. Pefect for a full day of adventure.

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Old Jan 12th, 2005 | 09:17 AM
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I plan to be in in Iguazu in less than 2 weeks. If I do similar things that you did, Nicci, what would you suggest would be the best type of clothing to wear bearing in mind the water that we are bound to be hit with? Also, I have a waterproof camera as well as a camcorder and digital. Should I only use the waterproof one and not even bother with the others?
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Old Jan 15th, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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Lolo12: You could bring all of the cameras with you and use the waterproof one while on the boat. The boat trip is only 20 minutes of the entire day. They give you plastic bags to keep items dry and the boat makes stops for photos. You're showered with water for a few minutes, so anything outside the plastic bag will get drenched.

We just wore t-shirts and shorts, while some people wore bathing suits for the boat. Some of the viewing platforms close to the waterfalls gave off a light mist of water. So you may get a little wet while hiking.
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Old Jan 15th, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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Nicci, If I have a plastic poncho is it worth bringing i to wear? I was planning on bringing several zip-lock baggies for the camera anyway. I know the temperature will probably be warm during the day, but what about in the evening? Thanks for you help. I cant wait to go!!
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Old Jan 16th, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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Lolo12: You can bring a poncho, but I still think you'll get wet. Ziplocks are a very good idea. We had a nice breeze and dried in an hour.

We were lucky to have dry and breezy weather while we were there. I think Iguazu is typically hot and humid in the summer. So it's hard for me to say what the weather will be like for you since we were there the first part of December. It was warm enough to wear shorts in the evening.

Have a great trip!
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Old Jan 17th, 2005 | 02:28 AM
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We came back to Spain from a 14 days (12 nights) trip to Argentina and Torres del Paine (Chili), organised by ourselves. Some things we did were similar to Nicci. We went to Buenos Aires, El Calafate, Torres del Paine, Peninsula Valdes and Iguazu. We are native spanish speaking people.

The name of the adventure trip in the argentinian side of Iguazu is Jungle Adventure (Aventura en la selva) In my children's opinion is the most exciting thing they have done in their lives. You can buy it when you arrive at the airport, or at the hotel. The price is 70 ar. pesos (app.23US$) per person. We were staying at the Sheraton, which is very convenient.

I am preparing a report of the trip. If somebody is interested in one particular aspect, please post your questions.
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Old Jan 18th, 2005 | 05:10 AM
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Nica, can you give more info about this?
Jungle Adventure (Aventura en la selva)
 
Old Jan 18th, 2005 | 05:52 AM
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We are considering a one week trip to Buenos Aires in February so I was very interested in the hotel info you posted. Unfortunately, when I went to the Loi Suites website, the posted rates are $192 per night, for a standard double,not the $60 you mentioned. And February is apparently low season and we are prepared to book 8 nights. Do you have any idea why the posted rate is so high and how we might get your rate? Thanks for any help you can provide.
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