Trip Report -- Arenal/Monteverde/Manuel Antonio
Jun 15th, 2006, 02:26 PM
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Trip Report -- Arenal/Monteverde/Manuel Antonio
Trip Report
Just returned from a ten day trip with my husband. We had a great time and would love to provide feedback, so here it goes.
San Jose Environs:
Hotels: Finca Rosa Blanca; Xandari
We arrived on a Friday afternoon in San Jose. We cleared immigration, customs and baggage in less than an hour. We had arranged for our first night hotel (Finca Rosa Blanca) to pick us up instead of picking up our rental car immediately. I am really glad we did this. It made the transition to a foreign country a little easier, and we would have had a difficult time locating the hotel.
We spent our first night at Finca Rosa Blanca in the Guarumo room. We were greeted with a steaming cup of their very own coffee. I can’t say enough good things about this boutique hotel. It has warm hospitality, beautiful grounds and hotel, an ionized infinity pool (no harsh chemicals), amazing food and is immaculate. The other bonus for us was its strong commitment to the environment. Everything at the hotel was so well thought out and really appears to be an ongoing labor of love for its owner and staff. We had dinner at the communal table. I’m a big fan of occasional community meals when traveling, because I get to meet new people and hear their traveling tips. If this is not your cup of tea, I know that at least one couple had dinner in a private room. Regrets: I just wish we had planned more time to go on a horseback trip (they have their own stable) through their coffee plantation and neighboring farms.
The next morning – my first (of many) Costa Rican sunrise! I am a morning person by nature, and with the time change and the active wildlife, I regularly saw 5 AM. The mornings in Costa Rica are magnificent. I loved having a cup of strong coffee while watching the birds and the sun rise above the coffee plantations, volcano, ocean, etc. This was also my first morning (of many) of gallo pinto and plantains. So good!
While I am in the San Jose “area,” I’ll recap our last night at Xandari as well. We loved this hotel too. The San Jose area hotels seemed the most polished and had the best in-hotel food. We had Ultra Villa #4. It was huge and had a great view. Xandari has gorgeous ground – I think it employs 15 gardeners and it shows. It rivals any botanical garden. The artwork and villas are a little bit funky and would appeal to those who have a little hippie streak. For me, the vibe works really well in CR. We ate in the hotel for dinner and breakfast – the menu had lots of vegetarian options and the food was very tasty. In the morning before our flight, we went for a hike to the waterfalls and through the gardens and went for a dip in the pool. The pool was not green (as some others reported), and was perfectly clean, but it was not as luxurious as some of the other hotels we stayed in. Regrets: We didn’t get to try the spa.
She said: I preferred Finca Rosa Blanca, because of the really cool architecture and rooms.
He said: He liked Xandari better because of the privacy of the villas and bigger resort space.
We were picked up by Tricolor on our first morning and taken to their office right outside the airport. We rented a Suzuki Grand Vitara for the entire time. (We needed an automatic, so this was our 4X4 option at tricolor.) I am really glad we decided to do our own driving. I felt the car really came in handy in Arenal and Monteverde. I would not have liked to be reliant on taxis and tours for transportation. I just liked being more mobile. Of course, I was the passenger and got to enjoy the view the whole time! All in all, the roads were not that bad. The trip to Arenal was completely paved and easy. The trip to Monteverde was an adventure, but we expected a lot worse.
Arenal:
Hotel: Lost Iguana
Activities: Pure Trek canyoning, Rios Tropicales rafting on the Sarapiqui; hanging bridges; hike to the old lava fields; Tabacon hot springs
Food: El Novilla, Vaca Muca, Tabacan Palenque bar
We checked into the Lost Iguana early afternoon for three nights. I had read A LOT of reviews of this place and of course must add my two cents.
The room: We stayed in a luxury suite in the new portion of the hotel on the second floor. I LOVED our room during the daylight hours. The view of the volcano was fabulous, the room really spacious and nicely decorated. At night, the room seemed too cavernous and dark. There were no reading lights by the “island bed” and the room was either too warm or too cold with the air conditioning. I also agree with other posters that some of the construction was done in a hurry. We had a few windows that did not really fit into the frames, but all the doors had weather stripping. On our first night, we had a scorpion and a large spider in our room. To be fair to the Lost Iguana, bugs are unavoidable here. I do not think that this situation could have been avoided. In fact, because these were the ONLY bugs in our room, I believe that the room was probably sprayed down with pesticide. This first night kicked off our nightly ritual of a scorpion bed check and other “monsters” in the corners. We did not use the outside bathtub (although in theory it looked nice) because it smelled like chemicals when we tried to fill it up. We didn’t mind; however, since we were fairly pruney from the pool!
Pool/Restaurant: One of our favorite parts about the Lost Iguana was the pool bar. This was a great place to go for happy hour (for young and old alike). The orientation of the bar allowed for easy flow of conversation and we met some lovely people hanging out in the pool bar watching the volcano. I was not impressed with the food at the hotel (besides the pool chips and dips). It felt too American and uninspired. (We actually had our worst lunch of the entire trip here.) Although, the complimentary breakfast buffet was nice to have and included hot filling options.
The staff: We did not have any problems with our bill or tour booking. Our waiters and bartenders were all fine. The staff is young, but we both came to the conclusion that everyone just seemed a little shy (maybe an insecurity about the language?). I have a feeling that being yelled at in English by tourists has taken its toll.
The grounds: The gardens that were completed were very tropical and lush. There was a lot of construction “around” but we could not see or hear this from our room. The hotel is located on a hillside so it requires a lot of walking up and down hills. We didn’t mind this, but others might. Also, this hotel is located kind of far away from other restaurants and hot springs. We had a car and drove at night so this was not a problem. The road is very well paved.
Final verdict: Lovely room, but the hotel needs some more time to become more polished and well run. Although, for the area this is good choice for an “fancy” hotel.
The first afternoon we went to the Hanging Bridges. They are within walking distance of the Lost Iguana. This was the only time we saw a snake (yellow eyelash viper) the entire trip which we would not have seen if the guide near the entrance wouldn’t have pointed it out.
That night we went to El Novilla which we thought was great. It was kind of like eating at a backyard barbecue in terms of ambiance, but the food and view couldn’t be beat. I agree with other posters that currently, this spot has the best lava views. Try the bananas flambé for additional shooting flames...it really adds to the whole volcano experience.
The next day we did Puretrek canyoning. I thought this was great fun, although terrifying the first time the guide tells you to turn around and “sit down” off the edge of the platform. At no time did I feel unsafe – the guides were meticulous at clipping you into safety lines. Also, if you have trouble on your descent, the guide can pull your ropes which make you stop immediately. The trip also includes lunch at their office, which has a great patio and gardens.
That afternoon, we went to the Arenal Volcano Park and did the short hike to the lava fields. It is about a 30 minute walk to the fields and we kept wondering “are we there yet.” However, once you get there, you know immediately. This was a definite reminder that you are really close to a volcano.
We ate at Vaca Muca that night. I felt Arenal was sort of lacking for places to eat (compared to our other destinations). This place was completely empty, the food was just ok, but very cheap.
The next day we went on an all day rafting trip with Rios Tropicales. This was the only tour that I had the hotel book for us when we got there. They said this was the only rafting company they currently worked with, but I know there are others in the area. The man who did my booking called as soon as I asked to see if they had space available and immediately gave me the voucher for the following morning. RT picked us up at our hotel around 8 AM and we drove for about an hour to the river. The rafting trip was wonderful and really active. I think the river was rated Class III/IV. There was a break half-way for a fruit snack and then at the end we had lunch at a local restaurant. We both felt this was our best “adventure” tour of the whole vacation. For me, it was the best because I like water sports and this one didn’t involve any heights!
That night we went to Tabacon. Our biggest mistake was arriving after dark. For some, this would not be a problem at all. But for those, gulp, who are a little afraid of the dark (especially in a rain forest) this was a little unsettling. I just couldn’t get past jumping into a pitch black pool of steaming water, where I couldn’t see the bottom. It might have helped to arrive in daylight so I would know what I was dealing with first. I felt most comfortable in the large pool or the ones with people in them. I know this is fear is completely irrational...but it did make it hard to relax. A big tip (that I have not seen anyone else mention) is as follows: if you do not want to shell out for the buffet (or get dressed for dinner), the bar in the back of the property (Palenque?) has grilled skewers of chicken, beef or surf/turf with grilled vegetables. These are prepared right in front of you on a big grill and cost approximately $8. I was really happy with this meal. That bar also has a 2 for 1 happy hour until 9 or 9:30. Great deal!
The next day, on to Monteverde...
Just returned from a ten day trip with my husband. We had a great time and would love to provide feedback, so here it goes.
San Jose Environs:
Hotels: Finca Rosa Blanca; Xandari
We arrived on a Friday afternoon in San Jose. We cleared immigration, customs and baggage in less than an hour. We had arranged for our first night hotel (Finca Rosa Blanca) to pick us up instead of picking up our rental car immediately. I am really glad we did this. It made the transition to a foreign country a little easier, and we would have had a difficult time locating the hotel.
We spent our first night at Finca Rosa Blanca in the Guarumo room. We were greeted with a steaming cup of their very own coffee. I can’t say enough good things about this boutique hotel. It has warm hospitality, beautiful grounds and hotel, an ionized infinity pool (no harsh chemicals), amazing food and is immaculate. The other bonus for us was its strong commitment to the environment. Everything at the hotel was so well thought out and really appears to be an ongoing labor of love for its owner and staff. We had dinner at the communal table. I’m a big fan of occasional community meals when traveling, because I get to meet new people and hear their traveling tips. If this is not your cup of tea, I know that at least one couple had dinner in a private room. Regrets: I just wish we had planned more time to go on a horseback trip (they have their own stable) through their coffee plantation and neighboring farms.
The next morning – my first (of many) Costa Rican sunrise! I am a morning person by nature, and with the time change and the active wildlife, I regularly saw 5 AM. The mornings in Costa Rica are magnificent. I loved having a cup of strong coffee while watching the birds and the sun rise above the coffee plantations, volcano, ocean, etc. This was also my first morning (of many) of gallo pinto and plantains. So good!
While I am in the San Jose “area,” I’ll recap our last night at Xandari as well. We loved this hotel too. The San Jose area hotels seemed the most polished and had the best in-hotel food. We had Ultra Villa #4. It was huge and had a great view. Xandari has gorgeous ground – I think it employs 15 gardeners and it shows. It rivals any botanical garden. The artwork and villas are a little bit funky and would appeal to those who have a little hippie streak. For me, the vibe works really well in CR. We ate in the hotel for dinner and breakfast – the menu had lots of vegetarian options and the food was very tasty. In the morning before our flight, we went for a hike to the waterfalls and through the gardens and went for a dip in the pool. The pool was not green (as some others reported), and was perfectly clean, but it was not as luxurious as some of the other hotels we stayed in. Regrets: We didn’t get to try the spa.
She said: I preferred Finca Rosa Blanca, because of the really cool architecture and rooms.
He said: He liked Xandari better because of the privacy of the villas and bigger resort space.
We were picked up by Tricolor on our first morning and taken to their office right outside the airport. We rented a Suzuki Grand Vitara for the entire time. (We needed an automatic, so this was our 4X4 option at tricolor.) I am really glad we decided to do our own driving. I felt the car really came in handy in Arenal and Monteverde. I would not have liked to be reliant on taxis and tours for transportation. I just liked being more mobile. Of course, I was the passenger and got to enjoy the view the whole time! All in all, the roads were not that bad. The trip to Arenal was completely paved and easy. The trip to Monteverde was an adventure, but we expected a lot worse.
Arenal:
Hotel: Lost Iguana
Activities: Pure Trek canyoning, Rios Tropicales rafting on the Sarapiqui; hanging bridges; hike to the old lava fields; Tabacon hot springs
Food: El Novilla, Vaca Muca, Tabacan Palenque bar
We checked into the Lost Iguana early afternoon for three nights. I had read A LOT of reviews of this place and of course must add my two cents.
The room: We stayed in a luxury suite in the new portion of the hotel on the second floor. I LOVED our room during the daylight hours. The view of the volcano was fabulous, the room really spacious and nicely decorated. At night, the room seemed too cavernous and dark. There were no reading lights by the “island bed” and the room was either too warm or too cold with the air conditioning. I also agree with other posters that some of the construction was done in a hurry. We had a few windows that did not really fit into the frames, but all the doors had weather stripping. On our first night, we had a scorpion and a large spider in our room. To be fair to the Lost Iguana, bugs are unavoidable here. I do not think that this situation could have been avoided. In fact, because these were the ONLY bugs in our room, I believe that the room was probably sprayed down with pesticide. This first night kicked off our nightly ritual of a scorpion bed check and other “monsters” in the corners. We did not use the outside bathtub (although in theory it looked nice) because it smelled like chemicals when we tried to fill it up. We didn’t mind; however, since we were fairly pruney from the pool!
Pool/Restaurant: One of our favorite parts about the Lost Iguana was the pool bar. This was a great place to go for happy hour (for young and old alike). The orientation of the bar allowed for easy flow of conversation and we met some lovely people hanging out in the pool bar watching the volcano. I was not impressed with the food at the hotel (besides the pool chips and dips). It felt too American and uninspired. (We actually had our worst lunch of the entire trip here.) Although, the complimentary breakfast buffet was nice to have and included hot filling options.
The staff: We did not have any problems with our bill or tour booking. Our waiters and bartenders were all fine. The staff is young, but we both came to the conclusion that everyone just seemed a little shy (maybe an insecurity about the language?). I have a feeling that being yelled at in English by tourists has taken its toll.
The grounds: The gardens that were completed were very tropical and lush. There was a lot of construction “around” but we could not see or hear this from our room. The hotel is located on a hillside so it requires a lot of walking up and down hills. We didn’t mind this, but others might. Also, this hotel is located kind of far away from other restaurants and hot springs. We had a car and drove at night so this was not a problem. The road is very well paved.
Final verdict: Lovely room, but the hotel needs some more time to become more polished and well run. Although, for the area this is good choice for an “fancy” hotel.
The first afternoon we went to the Hanging Bridges. They are within walking distance of the Lost Iguana. This was the only time we saw a snake (yellow eyelash viper) the entire trip which we would not have seen if the guide near the entrance wouldn’t have pointed it out.
That night we went to El Novilla which we thought was great. It was kind of like eating at a backyard barbecue in terms of ambiance, but the food and view couldn’t be beat. I agree with other posters that currently, this spot has the best lava views. Try the bananas flambé for additional shooting flames...it really adds to the whole volcano experience.
The next day we did Puretrek canyoning. I thought this was great fun, although terrifying the first time the guide tells you to turn around and “sit down” off the edge of the platform. At no time did I feel unsafe – the guides were meticulous at clipping you into safety lines. Also, if you have trouble on your descent, the guide can pull your ropes which make you stop immediately. The trip also includes lunch at their office, which has a great patio and gardens.
That afternoon, we went to the Arenal Volcano Park and did the short hike to the lava fields. It is about a 30 minute walk to the fields and we kept wondering “are we there yet.” However, once you get there, you know immediately. This was a definite reminder that you are really close to a volcano.
We ate at Vaca Muca that night. I felt Arenal was sort of lacking for places to eat (compared to our other destinations). This place was completely empty, the food was just ok, but very cheap.
The next day we went on an all day rafting trip with Rios Tropicales. This was the only tour that I had the hotel book for us when we got there. They said this was the only rafting company they currently worked with, but I know there are others in the area. The man who did my booking called as soon as I asked to see if they had space available and immediately gave me the voucher for the following morning. RT picked us up at our hotel around 8 AM and we drove for about an hour to the river. The rafting trip was wonderful and really active. I think the river was rated Class III/IV. There was a break half-way for a fruit snack and then at the end we had lunch at a local restaurant. We both felt this was our best “adventure” tour of the whole vacation. For me, it was the best because I like water sports and this one didn’t involve any heights!
That night we went to Tabacon. Our biggest mistake was arriving after dark. For some, this would not be a problem at all. But for those, gulp, who are a little afraid of the dark (especially in a rain forest) this was a little unsettling. I just couldn’t get past jumping into a pitch black pool of steaming water, where I couldn’t see the bottom. It might have helped to arrive in daylight so I would know what I was dealing with first. I felt most comfortable in the large pool or the ones with people in them. I know this is fear is completely irrational...but it did make it hard to relax. A big tip (that I have not seen anyone else mention) is as follows: if you do not want to shell out for the buffet (or get dressed for dinner), the bar in the back of the property (Palenque?) has grilled skewers of chicken, beef or surf/turf with grilled vegetables. These are prepared right in front of you on a big grill and cost approximately $8. I was really happy with this meal. That bar also has a 2 for 1 happy hour until 9 or 9:30. Great deal!
The next day, on to Monteverde...
Jun 15th, 2006, 02:56 PM
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I'm enjoying your report immensely. Your itinerary is similar to the one we are planning.
We will only have 8 days, if you had to cut a few days out of your trip how might you have accomplished that?
Rest up and write some more! (Please)
Thanks!
We will only have 8 days, if you had to cut a few days out of your trip how might you have accomplished that?
Rest up and write some more! (Please)
Thanks!
Jun 16th, 2006, 05:08 AM
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Trip Report -- Part 2
Monteverde:
Hotel: Monteverde Lodge
Activities: Frog Pond, Hike with/without guide in cloud forest reserve, Sky Trek/Sky Walk, Butterfly Garden, Night Hike
Food: Monteverde Lodge; Pizzeria de Johnny’s; Morphos; Sofia’s; Moon Shiva
Despite all of the warnings, we drove to Monteverde and it was fine. It took us about 3 hours. The scenery is beautiful and there were barely any other cars on the road. For the last hour, the road IS bumpy and rocky, but you just have to go slow. We were a little unclear on the directions (although we had a map), but when you get to a town, you just had to ask for Santa Elena or Monteverde and people would just point in the right direction. There just aren’t that many roads to take. In one town, we must have looked a little confused, but a group of school kids saw us and just started pointing which way to go. It must have been the new SUV that gave us away as tourists!
We loved Monteverde. I think at heart, my husband and I are both big science nerds, so this town was perfect: cool things to learn about nature, adventure and great food. Santa Elena and surrounding area has a bit of a hippie/backpacker/environmentalist vibe, which we really liked. I think kids would really have fun here. It’s like being on a big natural history adventure. The roads; however, are horrendous, but nothing our 4x4 couldn’t handle. A lot of locals drive motorcycles – easier to dodge the potholes. Also, we never had a problem with reservations or crowding, but I don’t know what this would be like during the dry season
Monteverde Lodge: We were very happy staying here. The grounds are beautiful and the staff were really friendly. The rooms were equivalent to a Holiday Inn/Days Inn in terms of comfort (but of course with a nice picture window view of the forest). Translation: completely adequate, but a little lacking in ambiance. The lobby/fireplace/bar/restaurant area is nice and spacious and comfortable. We didn’t have to go outside to reach our room, which was a little bit of a relief for me...yes, that dark phobia again! The hotel restaurant had consistently good food and the best breakfasts of our trip (not included in room rate). The waiters were very professional and attentive. I liked the big jacuzzi off of the lobby. It is a bit chilly in Monteverde, especially when you get soaked hiking, so this was a nice way to bring the core temperature up. The hotel also had rubber boots for loan, which came in handy once my hiking shoes got wet.
The first afternoon we went into Santa Elena to go to the ATM and get some coffee. My ATM card would only work at the ATM at? the coopamax near the Serpentarium. We had a wonderful coffee at the Rainforest cafe in town where we also purchases souvenir coffee. Following that, we went to the frog pond. We arrived right before sunset, so were there when the frogs were waking up. I couldn’t stomach the Serpentarium, but I do like amphibians! (Yes, I am not only afraid of the dark, but I am also afraid of snakes.) The frog pond was really fun. Our guide was very sweet. He clearly loved frogs and couldn’t wait to tell us all about his little friends.
That night we ate at Pizzeria de Johnny’s. We shared two small pizzas, bruschetta and a small bottle of wine. The restaurant was really cozy (in the drizzle) and the food was great.
We woke up our first morning to a downpour. Hmmm, hiking in the pouring rain? I was determined not to be wimpy, so we donned our trusty rain gear and away we went. We met our guide at the reserve at 7 AM for a three hour, wet walk. We tried not to let the rain “dampen” our spirits, but I can’t say the same for the rest of me! We did not see a quetzal although we did hear the call of one. All of the animals were a bit shy due to the rain. (They must be smarter than the humans.) The walk ended at the Hummingbird Gallery which was really cool to watch all of the little birds whizzing by. Our guide was great and had a clear passion for the area and nature (this was a consistent theme during our stay at Monteverde).
Lunch was at Morphos in town. Great spot. We had typical Costa Rican fare again – more rice & beans, tortillas, etc.
That afternoon, we went back to the reserve. We considered going to the Santa Elena Reserve or Children’s Forest, but we had already paid the entrance fee and figured we would see similar things. We did a two hour hike on our own. This time, it wasn’t raining and we had that fabulous misty, cloudy effect. It was truly spectacular. Again, we did not see that “elusive” Resplendent Quetzal, so we will just have to go back another time.
Dinner that night was at Sofia’s. This may have been our best meal of the trip. Who would have thought we would find such a swanky place in the mountains of Costa Rica? The mojitos were very fresh and tasty and the food was excellent.
The next day, up bright and early again for our canopy tour with Sky Trek. It was sunny today. We decided to go with Sky Trek because I had read it was the most “intense” experience. Hey, if we were going to do a canopy tour, we were going all out! I started having second thoughts about this analysis upon climbing the first tower. My heart started pounding, my hands got clammy, and they wanted me to what? Jump out over a ravine? I quickly came to the conclusion that I just had to stop thinking and go for it. It certainly was exhilarating. My husband loved the experience. I too enjoyed it, but am pretty glad I have checked that off my “life list” forever. We also did the Sky Walk, which was sort of a let down after the adventure of Sky Trek. We had already done the Arenal bridges, so this was a bit repetitive.
Following that, we decided to check out the Butterfly Gardens. The Butterfly Gardens are staffed with some very enthusiastic volunteers, who love working there so much they hang out in the insect room at night and play games with the scorpions...to each his own. First, they show you a bunch of really cool looking “bugs” – tarantulas, hercules beetles, cockroaches, walking sticks, etc. They also have a board of chrysalis with butterflies in various stages of hatching. Then you are given a freshly hatched butterfly in a tupperware container to release in the enclosed gardens – so cool! They also have a neat leaf cutter ant colony. Very worthwhile visit.
We ate lunch at Moon Shivas. I was craving something different and falafel sounded good. It was good, but a bit overpriced.
That night we went on a Night Hike at the Biological Reserve. I agreed to this during a temporary moment of insanity (again, not good with the dark). In retrospect, I might have actually enjoyed myself if it didn’t start POURING again. So, it ended up being a two hour walk in the rain in the dark. Ugh. The positives: we saw baby owls, tarantulas (a lot less scary than it sounds), two kinkajoos (sp?), a sleeping toucan, and a porcupine.
Ate dinner at the Monteverde Lodge which was quite lovely and relaxing.
And on to Manuel Antonio...
Monteverde:
Hotel: Monteverde Lodge
Activities: Frog Pond, Hike with/without guide in cloud forest reserve, Sky Trek/Sky Walk, Butterfly Garden, Night Hike
Food: Monteverde Lodge; Pizzeria de Johnny’s; Morphos; Sofia’s; Moon Shiva
Despite all of the warnings, we drove to Monteverde and it was fine. It took us about 3 hours. The scenery is beautiful and there were barely any other cars on the road. For the last hour, the road IS bumpy and rocky, but you just have to go slow. We were a little unclear on the directions (although we had a map), but when you get to a town, you just had to ask for Santa Elena or Monteverde and people would just point in the right direction. There just aren’t that many roads to take. In one town, we must have looked a little confused, but a group of school kids saw us and just started pointing which way to go. It must have been the new SUV that gave us away as tourists!
We loved Monteverde. I think at heart, my husband and I are both big science nerds, so this town was perfect: cool things to learn about nature, adventure and great food. Santa Elena and surrounding area has a bit of a hippie/backpacker/environmentalist vibe, which we really liked. I think kids would really have fun here. It’s like being on a big natural history adventure. The roads; however, are horrendous, but nothing our 4x4 couldn’t handle. A lot of locals drive motorcycles – easier to dodge the potholes. Also, we never had a problem with reservations or crowding, but I don’t know what this would be like during the dry season
Monteverde Lodge: We were very happy staying here. The grounds are beautiful and the staff were really friendly. The rooms were equivalent to a Holiday Inn/Days Inn in terms of comfort (but of course with a nice picture window view of the forest). Translation: completely adequate, but a little lacking in ambiance. The lobby/fireplace/bar/restaurant area is nice and spacious and comfortable. We didn’t have to go outside to reach our room, which was a little bit of a relief for me...yes, that dark phobia again! The hotel restaurant had consistently good food and the best breakfasts of our trip (not included in room rate). The waiters were very professional and attentive. I liked the big jacuzzi off of the lobby. It is a bit chilly in Monteverde, especially when you get soaked hiking, so this was a nice way to bring the core temperature up. The hotel also had rubber boots for loan, which came in handy once my hiking shoes got wet.
The first afternoon we went into Santa Elena to go to the ATM and get some coffee. My ATM card would only work at the ATM at? the coopamax near the Serpentarium. We had a wonderful coffee at the Rainforest cafe in town where we also purchases souvenir coffee. Following that, we went to the frog pond. We arrived right before sunset, so were there when the frogs were waking up. I couldn’t stomach the Serpentarium, but I do like amphibians! (Yes, I am not only afraid of the dark, but I am also afraid of snakes.) The frog pond was really fun. Our guide was very sweet. He clearly loved frogs and couldn’t wait to tell us all about his little friends.
That night we ate at Pizzeria de Johnny’s. We shared two small pizzas, bruschetta and a small bottle of wine. The restaurant was really cozy (in the drizzle) and the food was great.
We woke up our first morning to a downpour. Hmmm, hiking in the pouring rain? I was determined not to be wimpy, so we donned our trusty rain gear and away we went. We met our guide at the reserve at 7 AM for a three hour, wet walk. We tried not to let the rain “dampen” our spirits, but I can’t say the same for the rest of me! We did not see a quetzal although we did hear the call of one. All of the animals were a bit shy due to the rain. (They must be smarter than the humans.) The walk ended at the Hummingbird Gallery which was really cool to watch all of the little birds whizzing by. Our guide was great and had a clear passion for the area and nature (this was a consistent theme during our stay at Monteverde).
Lunch was at Morphos in town. Great spot. We had typical Costa Rican fare again – more rice & beans, tortillas, etc.
That afternoon, we went back to the reserve. We considered going to the Santa Elena Reserve or Children’s Forest, but we had already paid the entrance fee and figured we would see similar things. We did a two hour hike on our own. This time, it wasn’t raining and we had that fabulous misty, cloudy effect. It was truly spectacular. Again, we did not see that “elusive” Resplendent Quetzal, so we will just have to go back another time.
Dinner that night was at Sofia’s. This may have been our best meal of the trip. Who would have thought we would find such a swanky place in the mountains of Costa Rica? The mojitos were very fresh and tasty and the food was excellent.
The next day, up bright and early again for our canopy tour with Sky Trek. It was sunny today. We decided to go with Sky Trek because I had read it was the most “intense” experience. Hey, if we were going to do a canopy tour, we were going all out! I started having second thoughts about this analysis upon climbing the first tower. My heart started pounding, my hands got clammy, and they wanted me to what? Jump out over a ravine? I quickly came to the conclusion that I just had to stop thinking and go for it. It certainly was exhilarating. My husband loved the experience. I too enjoyed it, but am pretty glad I have checked that off my “life list” forever. We also did the Sky Walk, which was sort of a let down after the adventure of Sky Trek. We had already done the Arenal bridges, so this was a bit repetitive.
Following that, we decided to check out the Butterfly Gardens. The Butterfly Gardens are staffed with some very enthusiastic volunteers, who love working there so much they hang out in the insect room at night and play games with the scorpions...to each his own. First, they show you a bunch of really cool looking “bugs” – tarantulas, hercules beetles, cockroaches, walking sticks, etc. They also have a board of chrysalis with butterflies in various stages of hatching. Then you are given a freshly hatched butterfly in a tupperware container to release in the enclosed gardens – so cool! They also have a neat leaf cutter ant colony. Very worthwhile visit.
We ate lunch at Moon Shivas. I was craving something different and falafel sounded good. It was good, but a bit overpriced.
That night we went on a Night Hike at the Biological Reserve. I agreed to this during a temporary moment of insanity (again, not good with the dark). In retrospect, I might have actually enjoyed myself if it didn’t start POURING again. So, it ended up being a two hour walk in the rain in the dark. Ugh. The positives: we saw baby owls, tarantulas (a lot less scary than it sounds), two kinkajoos (sp?), a sleeping toucan, and a porcupine.
Ate dinner at the Monteverde Lodge which was quite lovely and relaxing.
And on to Manuel Antonio...
Jun 16th, 2006, 05:19 AM
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To answer the questions posed:
If you only have eight days, you have a couple of options. One: eliminate time spent near the airport. We felt that we could have driven to Arenal after our flight on the first day, but of course this would depend on your flight schedule. I would want to arrive before dark. Also, you could fly from MA to San Jose the same day as your flight, so you wouldn't have to go the night before. Again, this would depend on your flights back to the U.S.
The other option would be to eliminate a location. I do not think I would have liked to just reduce the nights at each place because the whole trip would be about the travel. We wished we had more time in MA as it was. If I had to pick my least favorite location (out of three we went to), it would be Arenal. The volcano was cool, but there is a good chance you won't see it. La Fortuna was my least favorite town of the three as well. The tours you do in Arenal you could also do elsewhere. But, of course this is a personal preference...
As for the weather, it rained every day in varying amounts. Typically, it rained for about an hour starting around 3 or 4. A couple of times it started raining at 3 or 4 and didn't stop until the next day. In Monteverde we had a lot more rain than anywhere else, but nothing a good raincoat or poncho couldn't fix.
If you only have eight days, you have a couple of options. One: eliminate time spent near the airport. We felt that we could have driven to Arenal after our flight on the first day, but of course this would depend on your flight schedule. I would want to arrive before dark. Also, you could fly from MA to San Jose the same day as your flight, so you wouldn't have to go the night before. Again, this would depend on your flights back to the U.S.
The other option would be to eliminate a location. I do not think I would have liked to just reduce the nights at each place because the whole trip would be about the travel. We wished we had more time in MA as it was. If I had to pick my least favorite location (out of three we went to), it would be Arenal. The volcano was cool, but there is a good chance you won't see it. La Fortuna was my least favorite town of the three as well. The tours you do in Arenal you could also do elsewhere. But, of course this is a personal preference...
As for the weather, it rained every day in varying amounts. Typically, it rained for about an hour starting around 3 or 4. A couple of times it started raining at 3 or 4 and didn't stop until the next day. In Monteverde we had a lot more rain than anywhere else, but nothing a good raincoat or poncho couldn't fix.
Jun 16th, 2006, 09:07 PM
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Windy,
THANK YOU! Your Trip Report is awesome! Your writing is great.
I am going to CR next month for 11 days starting up north and I decided to drop Arenal from the "must do" list. Glad to read your account, Now I know I made the right decision. Monteverde is my number one choice. Good to hear about each different hotel and rest. I will have to check out the Xandari as gardens are a fav for me. Thank you.
Keep writing.
THANK YOU! Your Trip Report is awesome! Your writing is great.
I am going to CR next month for 11 days starting up north and I decided to drop Arenal from the "must do" list. Glad to read your account, Now I know I made the right decision. Monteverde is my number one choice. Good to hear about each different hotel and rest. I will have to check out the Xandari as gardens are a fav for me. Thank you.
Keep writing.
Jun 16th, 2006, 10:32 PM
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You have a great sense of adventure and you didn't let a "little" rain dampen your spirits (pardon the pun). Hope we are as resilient next month.
I have to ask how you managed to step off that platform (Sky Trek), which we plan to do. I was hoping the first one would be a bit tame for wusses like me to get used to it, but sounds like they go all out the first platform.
Great report. We don't have MA on our itinerary, but looking foward to your report as plans can change! Thanks.
I have to ask how you managed to step off that platform (Sky Trek), which we plan to do. I was hoping the first one would be a bit tame for wusses like me to get used to it, but sounds like they go all out the first platform.
Great report. We don't have MA on our itinerary, but looking foward to your report as plans can change! Thanks.
Jun 18th, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Trip Report -- Part 3
Manuel Antonio:
Hotel: Buena Vista Villas
Activities: MA National Park, beach at hotel (we became lazy!)
Food: Tulemar Cafe, Salsapuedes, Marlins, Barba Roja, Cafe Milagro
At this point in our vacation, I just needed to relax. We had been on so many adventure tours and done do much hiking that I just wanted to lie there. Manuel Antonio provided us that option. I know there are lot of tours here that provide the “typical” CR adventures (canopy, rafting, etc.), but our main focus was the beach. MA consists of one winding road with hotels and restaurants, ending in the national park and public beach. This town is a definite beach town and was unlike the other places we visited. The vibe is more "sit and look at the view." Perfect.
We loved staying at the Buena Vista Villas. This is in the same property as Tulemar, but under different management. You can use all Tulemar facilities and you can charge things to your room at either facility. Our villa (304) was beautiful and the view of the ocean was absolutely amazing. This was our nicest room (including best bed and bathroom) of the entire trip. It is a different type of hotel, more like having a condo with a concierge and room service. The property is very large and built on an extremely steep hill. The “front desk” is literally a desk by the pool; however, someone was always there when we went down to the pool or called. They have a van service that took us around the property and to restaurants near by. The van driver also said he would take us to the supermarket if we needed to go. We also LOVED having the private beach at the hotel (with free chairs, umbrellas and boogie boards). I am a little confused what people do at other hotels – just the pool, public beach?
On our first day, we got up really early in Monteverde to drive to Manuel Antonio because we wanted to get there in time to watch the Costa Rica/Germany World Cup game. The drive took about 3 hours and 15 minutes, and we arrived only in time for the second half. We watched the game with some guests and staff of our hotel – it was a fun experience although the Ticos lost to Germany.
We ate lunch at Tulemar cafe overlooking the water and thought the food was fairly good.
The first afternoon, we just went to the private beach and lazed around our villa. That night we went to Salsapuedes for dinner which was recommended by our hotel. This was a casual tapas style place heavy on sea food. I thought the food was amazing – tuna sashimi, grilled fish kabobs, calamari. The restaurants we went to all had great views of the water and would have been great for sunsets (although it rained both nights we were there.)
The next day we went to Manuel Antonio Park. I really hate to admit this, but we really didn’t like it that much. We did not get a guide (maybe a mistake) because we were all toured/guided out. The third beach was great for swimming, but the park is small and gets really crowded. We actually saw more animals just at our hotel property. (We saw white-faced capuchin monkeys, coati, crocodile, birds, but no sloths.) And I was really nervous to leave my stuff unattended on the beach – which I don’t know how you avoid with only two people. Swim alone? That’s no fun. We stayed a few hours and then went to lunch at Marlins across from the public beach. This had great fresh grilled fish in a nice beachy casual setting.
Back at the hotel meant back to our private beach...did I mention how much we loved having a beach at our hotel? After walking back to our villa we stopped at the pool where a family of squirrel monkeys were enjoying the trees. It was really fun to sit there and watch the monkeys swinging about. Unfortunately, one of the other hotel guests thought it would be a good idea to feed the monkeys some bananas. Honestly, I have no idea why she thought this was a good idea. There are postings in EVERY guide book and signs everywhere about how horrible it is to feed the monkeys. They get sick from diseases passed by humans and pesticides in foods. Squirrel monkeys are endangered and they think there are less than 2,000 remaining. In addition, other people than wanted the monkeys to come close enough to touch or hold possibly risking getting bitten. Fortunately, they were unsuccessful. Before this, we were able to see enough monkeys fairly close-up without possibly endangering their lives. I felt it was completely unnecessary and frankly a little disturbing. (Ok, I’ll get down off my soap box now.)
A storm rolled in that afternoon, and it poured all night, which again prevented us from seeing the sunset. We went to Barba Roja that night. The food was Mexican influenced, and there were great margaritas. There was a large outdoor area with tremendous views of the water (which would be really fun if it wasn’t pouring!).
The next morning (our last) we awoke to beautiful blue skies and a troupe of squirrel monkeys outside. We watched them swing from the trees and scamper across neighboring villa roofs from our balcony and then headed back to the beach to soak up as much sun and sea as we could before heading back to San Jose.
Our last meal was at Cafe Milagro. This is a great place – fresh sandwiches, amazing coffee drinks. I would go every day if they opened one where I live.
We hopped in the car and drove the three hours back to San Jose. Every drive we did lasted approximately three hours – it was very strange given the distances on the map. This drive was my least favorite – part was a paved, winding mountain road and we got stuck behind a bus. There were way more cars and buses then when we went to Monteverde.
Returned the rental car to Tricolor with no problems and they drove us to Xandari.
Well, that’s it. Hopefully, you can tell from my report that we loved Costa Rica. To me this vacation was the perfect balance of relaxing and adventure coupled with beautiful scenery, friendly people and fresh food. We learned a lot and can’t wait to return. I would love to see Corcovado. I even think just spending a few days in the Central Valley would be well worth the trip. If you are reading this that probably means you are planning your trip...I’m jealous just thinking about it.
Manuel Antonio:
Hotel: Buena Vista Villas
Activities: MA National Park, beach at hotel (we became lazy!)
Food: Tulemar Cafe, Salsapuedes, Marlins, Barba Roja, Cafe Milagro
At this point in our vacation, I just needed to relax. We had been on so many adventure tours and done do much hiking that I just wanted to lie there. Manuel Antonio provided us that option. I know there are lot of tours here that provide the “typical” CR adventures (canopy, rafting, etc.), but our main focus was the beach. MA consists of one winding road with hotels and restaurants, ending in the national park and public beach. This town is a definite beach town and was unlike the other places we visited. The vibe is more "sit and look at the view." Perfect.
We loved staying at the Buena Vista Villas. This is in the same property as Tulemar, but under different management. You can use all Tulemar facilities and you can charge things to your room at either facility. Our villa (304) was beautiful and the view of the ocean was absolutely amazing. This was our nicest room (including best bed and bathroom) of the entire trip. It is a different type of hotel, more like having a condo with a concierge and room service. The property is very large and built on an extremely steep hill. The “front desk” is literally a desk by the pool; however, someone was always there when we went down to the pool or called. They have a van service that took us around the property and to restaurants near by. The van driver also said he would take us to the supermarket if we needed to go. We also LOVED having the private beach at the hotel (with free chairs, umbrellas and boogie boards). I am a little confused what people do at other hotels – just the pool, public beach?
On our first day, we got up really early in Monteverde to drive to Manuel Antonio because we wanted to get there in time to watch the Costa Rica/Germany World Cup game. The drive took about 3 hours and 15 minutes, and we arrived only in time for the second half. We watched the game with some guests and staff of our hotel – it was a fun experience although the Ticos lost to Germany.
We ate lunch at Tulemar cafe overlooking the water and thought the food was fairly good. The first afternoon, we just went to the private beach and lazed around our villa. That night we went to Salsapuedes for dinner which was recommended by our hotel. This was a casual tapas style place heavy on sea food. I thought the food was amazing – tuna sashimi, grilled fish kabobs, calamari. The restaurants we went to all had great views of the water and would have been great for sunsets (although it rained both nights we were there.)
The next day we went to Manuel Antonio Park. I really hate to admit this, but we really didn’t like it that much. We did not get a guide (maybe a mistake) because we were all toured/guided out. The third beach was great for swimming, but the park is small and gets really crowded. We actually saw more animals just at our hotel property. (We saw white-faced capuchin monkeys, coati, crocodile, birds, but no sloths.) And I was really nervous to leave my stuff unattended on the beach – which I don’t know how you avoid with only two people. Swim alone? That’s no fun. We stayed a few hours and then went to lunch at Marlins across from the public beach. This had great fresh grilled fish in a nice beachy casual setting.
Back at the hotel meant back to our private beach...did I mention how much we loved having a beach at our hotel? After walking back to our villa we stopped at the pool where a family of squirrel monkeys were enjoying the trees. It was really fun to sit there and watch the monkeys swinging about. Unfortunately, one of the other hotel guests thought it would be a good idea to feed the monkeys some bananas. Honestly, I have no idea why she thought this was a good idea. There are postings in EVERY guide book and signs everywhere about how horrible it is to feed the monkeys. They get sick from diseases passed by humans and pesticides in foods. Squirrel monkeys are endangered and they think there are less than 2,000 remaining. In addition, other people than wanted the monkeys to come close enough to touch or hold possibly risking getting bitten. Fortunately, they were unsuccessful. Before this, we were able to see enough monkeys fairly close-up without possibly endangering their lives. I felt it was completely unnecessary and frankly a little disturbing. (Ok, I’ll get down off my soap box now.)
A storm rolled in that afternoon, and it poured all night, which again prevented us from seeing the sunset. We went to Barba Roja that night. The food was Mexican influenced, and there were great margaritas. There was a large outdoor area with tremendous views of the water (which would be really fun if it wasn’t pouring!).
The next morning (our last) we awoke to beautiful blue skies and a troupe of squirrel monkeys outside. We watched them swing from the trees and scamper across neighboring villa roofs from our balcony and then headed back to the beach to soak up as much sun and sea as we could before heading back to San Jose.
Our last meal was at Cafe Milagro. This is a great place – fresh sandwiches, amazing coffee drinks. I would go every day if they opened one where I live.
We hopped in the car and drove the three hours back to San Jose. Every drive we did lasted approximately three hours – it was very strange given the distances on the map. This drive was my least favorite – part was a paved, winding mountain road and we got stuck behind a bus. There were way more cars and buses then when we went to Monteverde.
Returned the rental car to Tricolor with no problems and they drove us to Xandari.
Well, that’s it. Hopefully, you can tell from my report that we loved Costa Rica. To me this vacation was the perfect balance of relaxing and adventure coupled with beautiful scenery, friendly people and fresh food. We learned a lot and can’t wait to return. I would love to see Corcovado. I even think just spending a few days in the Central Valley would be well worth the trip. If you are reading this that probably means you are planning your trip...I’m jealous just thinking about it.
Jun 18th, 2006, 10:35 AM
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To answer the question about Sky Trek. I have good news. Although you do have to climb a metal spiral staircase to reach the first line, the first three ziplines are the shortests and lowest. I think after this you can opt-out, but if you continue on, you must complete the course to get back to the base.
For puretrek canyoning, the first rappel is the highest. This is unavoidable given the geography.
For puretrek canyoning, the first rappel is the highest. This is unavoidable given the geography.
Jun 19th, 2006, 05:33 AM
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It was more a question of spreading out our tours. I knew we wanted to do canyoning and rafting and it seemed easier to wait to do sky trek in Monteverde. I don't know how the two sites compare, but Monteverde was a lot cooler (temperature wise) than Arenal if this would factor into your decision.
Jun 19th, 2006, 06:30 AM
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It's amazing how your trip is almost exactly mirroring ours in 5 weeks (and counting), hotels, restaurants, activities...great trip report, made me feel much more comfortable with our choices.
I am very surprised that it only took you a little over 3 hours from Monteverde to MA. We were expecting over 5 hours and were dreading that....some questions about driving:
How difficult did you find 'mapping it out' and getting from place to place? San Jose to Arenal to Monteverde to MA (we are flying from MA back to San Jose and leaving our rental in MA).
On your drive from San Jose to Arenal, did you go the route that takes you thru Grecia, Sarchi, Naranjo, San Carlos, etc.? From our map, it looks like there are 2 roads to take, one thru these small towns, and another that may be quicker but less 'scenic'?
Is the road to Monteverde that bad or is the feedback a bit exaggerated?
We are staying at Tulemar as well (in Motmot Bungalow), do you think the private beach there is just as nice as the other beaches you saw? Also, what is the general rule of thumb on tipping when using the van to drive down to/back from the beach, to restaurants, etc?
Thank you!
I am very surprised that it only took you a little over 3 hours from Monteverde to MA. We were expecting over 5 hours and were dreading that....some questions about driving:
How difficult did you find 'mapping it out' and getting from place to place? San Jose to Arenal to Monteverde to MA (we are flying from MA back to San Jose and leaving our rental in MA).
On your drive from San Jose to Arenal, did you go the route that takes you thru Grecia, Sarchi, Naranjo, San Carlos, etc.? From our map, it looks like there are 2 roads to take, one thru these small towns, and another that may be quicker but less 'scenic'?
Is the road to Monteverde that bad or is the feedback a bit exaggerated?
We are staying at Tulemar as well (in Motmot Bungalow), do you think the private beach there is just as nice as the other beaches you saw? Also, what is the general rule of thumb on tipping when using the van to drive down to/back from the beach, to restaurants, etc?
Thank you!
Jun 19th, 2006, 02:17 PM
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We were a little surprised with the driving time to MA as well. I do think it can take longer if on the road out of Monteverde you get stuck behind a bus. We were also in kind of hurry to get there (b/c of the soccer game).
In terms of mapping out the trip, we used the directions from the Lost Iguana web site to get to Arenal. We didn’t have any problems and there are signs for the most part. Some directions are funny, e.g. turn left at the soccer field. There are two other routes -- one through Sarchi which you mentioned and one to see Poas and waterfalls., but I am told the LI route is the shortest.
To get everywhere else, I would bring my map when checking out at the hotel and just ask how to get to the next place. There are just not that many options for roads. And it helped to know the name of the towns on the way (and maybe other hotels in the area). Unfortunately, a lot of roads don’t have signs, but people were very helpful and friendly about pointing us in the right direction.
The road to Monteverde is more funny/ridiculous than anything else. It is only the last 30km that are like this. It is very rocky and bumpy. We just went very slow. At no time, did I feel unsafe. The road IN Santa Elena was much worse.
When you leave Monteverde to go to MA, you take a different way out than the way you came in (I think near Insect World). My map showed this road to be less developed than the one on the way in, but it was the same (or maybe better). You reach the big highway much faster this way.
As for the beach, I agree with Missypie that the beach at the Park is probably nicer sand and is much bigger, but I just liked the convenience of the beach at the hotel. I didn’t like leaving my stuff unattended at the other beach, and I couldn’t find a rinse-off shower in the Park. I think I would just try both. If you’re going to MA, you have to go to the park. Hopefully, you won’t be as tired as us and you’ll get more out of it. We were also just a couple – kids might have more fun at the Park (more to see, maybe other kids to meet, etc.). Also the hotel beach has a dramatic tide -- the beach is totally different depending on if its low or high.
As for the van driver, I don’t know what the rule of thumb is and pondered this same question. I didn’t tip the driver when he drove us back from the beach (because I left all of my money in the room). This was probably a mistake, but I tried to make it up to him later. When he took us to restaurants I tipped him either a 1000 ($2) or 2000 ($4) colones. This is what I had in my purse and since the van was free I didn’t mind.
In terms of mapping out the trip, we used the directions from the Lost Iguana web site to get to Arenal. We didn’t have any problems and there are signs for the most part. Some directions are funny, e.g. turn left at the soccer field. There are two other routes -- one through Sarchi which you mentioned and one to see Poas and waterfalls., but I am told the LI route is the shortest.
To get everywhere else, I would bring my map when checking out at the hotel and just ask how to get to the next place. There are just not that many options for roads. And it helped to know the name of the towns on the way (and maybe other hotels in the area). Unfortunately, a lot of roads don’t have signs, but people were very helpful and friendly about pointing us in the right direction.
The road to Monteverde is more funny/ridiculous than anything else. It is only the last 30km that are like this. It is very rocky and bumpy. We just went very slow. At no time, did I feel unsafe. The road IN Santa Elena was much worse.
When you leave Monteverde to go to MA, you take a different way out than the way you came in (I think near Insect World). My map showed this road to be less developed than the one on the way in, but it was the same (or maybe better). You reach the big highway much faster this way.
As for the beach, I agree with Missypie that the beach at the Park is probably nicer sand and is much bigger, but I just liked the convenience of the beach at the hotel. I didn’t like leaving my stuff unattended at the other beach, and I couldn’t find a rinse-off shower in the Park. I think I would just try both. If you’re going to MA, you have to go to the park. Hopefully, you won’t be as tired as us and you’ll get more out of it. We were also just a couple – kids might have more fun at the Park (more to see, maybe other kids to meet, etc.). Also the hotel beach has a dramatic tide -- the beach is totally different depending on if its low or high.
As for the van driver, I don’t know what the rule of thumb is and pondered this same question. I didn’t tip the driver when he drove us back from the beach (because I left all of my money in the room). This was probably a mistake, but I tried to make it up to him later. When he took us to restaurants I tipped him either a 1000 ($2) or 2000 ($4) colones. This is what I had in my purse and since the van was free I didn’t mind.
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