pshamrock

Pshamrock here. Second part of our month long trip was a week in the Salta area. We are SOOOO glad we decided to include the NW on our itinerary. Best piece of advice I could give is if you're going, try to see at least some of it with Angie. She seems to know every person, place and town in the entire area.

We used Salta as our base, and tooks trips from there. Spent first two nights at Hotel Salta in downtown Salta, one night at Manantial del Silencio in Purmamarca, back to Hotel Salta for one night, down to Cafayate for two nights at Hotel Killa, then one last night at Hotel Salta before leaving the next morning for the next leg of the trip to Iguazu. Sounds like a lot of moving around, and it was, but it worked out really well, and we were able to leave some luggage at Hotel Salta for the overnight trips.

Mendoza to Salta -
We left Mendoza on Aerolinas in the a.m. for BA. Surprisingly, we took about 8 trips on Aerolinas during our month there, and we never had a single problem with cancelled flights, late flights, etc. Planes were packed, but we arrived on time (with our luggage) on every leg. Our fabulous travel agent, Isabel of Buenos Aires Tours, kept an eagle eye on us - calling Angie along the way to make sure we were doing alright, and even letting us know one flight was going to leave 15 minutes early.

We had a five hour layover at AEP in BA before our flight to Salta. At Isabel's suggestion, we got a remisse that took us to a fabulous restaurant for lunch near the airport - Rodizio's. The biggest, best buffet ever with seafood, salads, fruit, and great waiters that come by the table every few minutes to offer you a different roasted meat. Had a nice table by the window that overlooked the water. Very beautiful and pleasant place - highly recommend it, especially if you have a long layover (there's another Rodizio in downtown BA, so make sure you go to the one near the airport). Huge meal for $60 AR. We had a couple shoulder bags on the chairs next to us. The waiters covered them up with cloth napkins, but they weren't pretentious about it. Had the remisse wait for us for two hours at the restaurant - can't remember what it cost - I'm thinking $20 US. It was worth it, although we could have probably had the restaurant call one for us.

Smooth flight to Salta, and there was a smiling Angie on the other side of the glass at the airport with a sign with our names on it. Whta a welcome sight! We weren't going to take off on our trip with her for another 36 hours or so, but she picked us up and drove us to Hotel Salta, a 1940's colonial style hotel right downtown on the Plaza 9 de Julio. Salta's a charming old colonial city. There's more to do in Salta than in Mendoza (it's much bigger), but strangely we didn't find nearly as many good restaurants. I suspect in Mendoza down there supports more of them. Had a nice room overlooking a church tower. We stayed in three different rooms there and they were all well appointed with comfy beds and very clean. The hotel is full of beautiful old tilework with beautiful wood floors. Nice buffet breakfast included, free internet room, and the only hotel we stayed in with CNN in English. There's a wonderful shared balcony guests can use, not that I ever saw anyone out there except us. Rooms were about $150 US. We walked everywhere.

The next day we spent exploring the town. Took the little tram up the mountain for $12 AR - it's a kick, and there's a nice garden with a fabulous view of the town at the top. Downtown has a wonderful central mercado where we bought way too many grapes - four kinds for a couple bucks. Some of the parks have book or other stalls, there's a stunning pink cathedral, and wonderful museums - don't miss Museo de Antropologia y Arqueologia and the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo, all on the main square. Balcarce Street is the up and coming area with newer galleries, nightlife, shops and restaurants.

We'd read about a restaurant called Cava on the square, but it has closed down. Walked (ran) through the pouring rain to another recommended restaurant, Altura, but it was closed as well, so we ducked in to Bonnie & Clyde's (yes, complete with pics from the movie on the walls). The place reeked of incense of all things, but they had decent food, although we were starving to death at that point so probably anything would have tasted good.

Near Hotel Salta is a very excellent and popular resturant called El Solar del Convento (recommended by Angie). Had a great trout and good pasta for dinner. At 10 p.m. it was packed, and we noticed that they seemed to be seating all the tourists in the back room, which sported bright flourescent lights and a warehouse ambiance. If you make a reservation, make sure you ask for the front room, which is lovely. Had our first Torrontes wine (the best comes from Salta) that Angie writes about. She says it tastes like sunshine, and I can see what she means. It's a flowery white wine, but not sweet. Really lovely.

On to Purmamarca!
Angie picked us up at 9 for the drive to Purmamarca. We were concerned when we planned the Salta piece that it would be too much time in a car, but Angie is so funny, speaks great English (our Spanish is minimal to say the least), knows so much about the history of Argentina, not to mention the geology and geography, and has so many great stories that the time on the road flew. She's a very careful driver - and she just bought a Renault van for her tours since we were down there. Her love of Salta is infectious.

It's impossible to describe the beauty of the area. Salta is very green, but the farther north you go the scenery changes to brightly colored mountains - and I mean stripes of panoramic colors. Angie pointed out condors circling overhead several times.

When we got to the lovely, tiny town of Purmamarca and drove on the mountain loop road next to town, those colored hills were so achingly beautiful that I was brought to tears. We've traveled all over, but it has to be one of the most gorgeous sites I've seen.

Checked into the hotel - Manantial de Silencio. The setting is stunning - surrounded by the technicolor hills, swimming pool, big trees, and fields of flowers in the back. It's a beautiful property, low slung - two stories high. Still, the place had a convent like feel - white bare hallways that carried sound so well you could hear conversations 40 feet? away in the lobby. It was packed with Americans on a bike trip. Excellent restaurant. All in all, although we'd read great reviews about it, we found the service and the place rather cold, although there aren't a ton of options for places to stay, although Angie likes a little place in town (can't remember the name of it though).

After lunch at a wonderful little restaurant on the square (had grilled llama - you only live once), we started the long and winding road up and over the mountains to the salt flats. The views along the way were - surprise - stunning. As we descended toward the salt flats, the vicuna appeared in small groups. They resemble a combo deer-llama. At first the salt flats looked like water, but it was a mirage. The flats are stark, blinding white and go for miles and miles. There's a building made of salt (lick it if you don't believe it), and workers harvesting salt in huge bags. We are really glad we went up there to such a unique place.

North to Tilcara -
The next morning we got up early to take a sunrise walk through the painted hills loop(also a must) and then we took off for Tilcara. More colorful mountains through the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Outside of Tilcara is Pucara de Tilcara - an ancient fortification with a panoramic view of the valley built by the native people to keep an eye on invaders - Inka's and others. Fascinating. Angie walked and talked us through the archeological museum on the square - is there anything she doesn't know about the NW? (included in admission ticket to Pucara), then on to lunch at Yacon a few blocks off the square. One of the best meals we'd had - humitas, lamb ribs, salads.

Long drive back to Salta, back to Convento restaurant for lomo and a big platter of mixed mystery meats.

250 miles south to Cafayate -
Angie picked us up the next morning for our two day trip to Cafayate. The scenery turned into lush farmland as we went south - lots of tobacco fields,olive trees, and some handsome gauchos riding down the roads. Along the way is Cabra Corral, a massive reservoir surrounded by mountains. Popular for rafting and water sports, it's worth a stop. Stopped for lunch at Posta de las Cabras, which is also a goat dairy farm. Lovely setting and very good goat cheeses. Further south the scenery changes from lush to dry with the beautiful Quebrada de Cafayate river, which runs red. Angie pointed out rock formations that resembled frogs, people, cities, and we stopped to go into the vertical canyon of Devil's Throat.

Approaching Cafayate the road is lined with vineyards, some 80 years old. We were stunned by the quality of the wines in this area! We checked into the really wonderful Hotel Killa ($110 US) - what a gorgeous little place - beautiful gardens, pool, and beautiful open rooms full of wonderful design touches. The warm and gracious owner made us feel right at home. Lots of fresh fruits at the breakfast buffet.

We loved the town - galleries, plazas, lots to see. The town has a reputation for weaving and tapestry. There were very few tourists, and the main plaza fills in the evening with families. Very pleasant place to have a Salta stout beer and watch the world go by.

Angie has talked on this site about the Heladeria Miranda. Who would have thought torrontes or cabernet ice cream would be so good. Managed to try their banana with dulce de leche, grapefruit and orange over the next day or two.

No surprise that the next day we went to wineries. Cafayate is at 1,660 meters above sea level with hot days and cool nights = happy grapes. There are several wineries in town, which we missed. Instead we went to a couple of small bodegas 10 miles or so outside of Cafayate. They matched or exceeded the beauty of the wineries in Mendoza in our opinion, and their wines were top notch. In hindsight, I can see why wine fiends would be happy if they hit Cafayate and missed Mendoza. If I had to choose between the two - Mendoza or the NW - no contest in our book - the NW was our favorite hands down.

Don't miss Bodega San Pedro de Yacochuya (www.yacochuya.com) about five miles northeast of town. They now have regular hours and have started serving special lunches at the owner's house if you reserve ahead ($60 US including wine I think). We didn't know about it ahead, but wish we had - the setting will take your breath away, and just try to resist their incredible Malbec and Torrontes. Highly highly recommended.

The second was Bodega Las Nubes. Tucked up against a hillside a few miles southwest of town, the winery is surrounded by olive and fruit trees. It's so small they do their entire harvest in one day with the help of locals and tourists. Very informative tour and great Malbec-Cab-Tannat blend, dry rose and of course, Torrontes. Very special place. We were tempted to go to Etchart, but ran out of time. Bodega Nanni in town (organic wine) was recommended as well.

In between the two wineries Angie took us to a goat cheese farm, right outside of town. They also own the Domingo Hermanos bodega, but we missed that one. Very interesting tour of the farm (maybe the 200 goats are so happy because they eat dried grapes and listen to classical music while they're being milked). They have a nice art gallery, and I fell for a painting that I hauled around for a couple of weeks. Best goat cheese we've ever had, which layed down a good base for a restaurant Angie recommended - Casa de Empenadas, which is about the size of a shoe box right of the main square. OK, they're the best empanadas you've ever had and only 1.5 AR each, made to order. Flavors like carnival, roquefort, greek, plus tamals and humitas (dammit Angie, when am I ever going to find a humita again?)
Dinner outside on the square at Carretas de Don Olegario - roasted rabbit and more humitas.

We hated leaving Cafayate - seriously - I could have stayed a week - but time for the drive back to Salta. I was kicking myself for not buying a tapestry I saw in Purmamarca, but when I described it to Angie, she took me to a tiny place down a dirt road place near El Obelisco on the way back to meet a weaver. Sure enough, she had a similar tapestry. Yahoo! That extra bag is getting heavier every day.

Back to Salta -
That night in Salta went to the ballet at the Teatro de la Ciudad -they were doing Raymundo & Suento en las Noches de Verano. I think it was $7 US. Great orchestra. The ballet was right out of the 1960's, including a really talented little green nymph. We enjoyed it very much. What a wonderful mash of humanity.

There are a LOT of concerts in Salta, plus folkloric venues that have dinner and show packages for $10 US. El Boliche de Balderrama was recommended (been there for 40+ years), but unfortunately we didn't make it there.

Coming back to the hotel from dinner at about midnight, the plaza was full of military personnel and military music. What's up? Apparently it was the anniversary of the Maldives war, and the new Governor of Salta was there for a ceremony. I must say, he is MUY guapo! Zounds - looks like Marcello Mastrianni. The soldiers were all armed with guns/bayonnets, and singing anthems. Every tried to take their eyes of the two dogs having rollicking sex - seemingly for the Governor's amusement since they were right in front of him. What a whacky way to end our trip to Salta.

Next Report - Iguazu and Misiones.

avrooster

Thank you again, pshamrock, for another great chapter, showing everyone why I always recommend hiring Angie, if you wish to tour our NW with a guide.

I guess Iguazú comes next. I can't wait! LOL!!! Would you believe I have never been to Iguazú? Maybe I'll go, after reading your report.

avrooster

BTW, pshamrock, I always suggest going to the Rodizio near the local airport http://www.rodizio.com.ar/sucursales_costanera_ing.htm
if you have a long wait for a flight near lunch time.

CollegeMom

Thanks pshamrock for a great refresher of the wonderful memories of NW from our trip in Sept. of 2006. We also used Salta as our base, stayed at Hotel Salta (possibly same room), and enjoyed the square, the museums, and area. Cayafate was possibly my favorite stop because of the delicious empanadas and wine, and we fortunately were there for two lunch meals and an overnight. The torrontes wine is a well kept secret! No wonder their goat cheese is so much better than any I have ever eaten elsewhere since the goats are fed dried grapes.

Our night at Manantial del Silencio in Pumamarca was not as upscale as we had been led to expect, but we did get our first llama meal there so it is a fond memory. The mountains with layers of colors more than made up for the hotel! The market square in Tilcara was a great place for shopping for "local" items. I bought more things in NW than in BA. The local textiles and fabrics are beautiful works of art.

The Salta and NW regions are such a sharp contrast to BA, but it should be a "must see" part of any Argentine itinerary. While we had an excellent guide/driver, we look forward to returning again to explore more of the area with Angie. She offers so much help and information on this site!

Iguazu is breathtaking and an interesting contrast to both NW and BA, but NW still is my favorite area. No doubt the Torrontes, Malbec, empanadas, and very friendly people helped! Thanks for the memories!

julies

Just read your great report because I am thinking about possibilities for a future South American trip (we just returned from Peru and really liked it so would like to explore other SA locations). I know absolutely NOTHING about travel in Argentina but have had numerous people recommend the country as an interesting and very affordable place. This brings me to my question. I keep hearing that Argentina is cheap for an American, but the prices you were quoting for lodging don't seem cheap (at least compared to what we paid in Peru). I'm getting the feeling that you opted for highend travel in Argentina. Or, am I wrong? Thanks for the report and the answer.

pshamrock

Hi Jules. I'd say we did medium range, with a few high range. You can definitely find cheaper lodging and restaurants, but we were on our delayed honeymoon, so we spent more than normal for us.

We found prices for meals and lodging to be about half of what you'd pay for similar quality in the U.S. Services (haircuts, massage, manicures, etc., were about a third when I did the buff and puff thing in BA). We found the NW area to be the least expensive area we visited.

I'm no expert, but from what we heard from people we talked to in Argentina, Peru and Bolivia are apparently cheaper, but prices in Chile, for hotels anyway, are quite a bit higher than Argentina.

That said, prices are rising quickly. Newspapers had frequent stories, sometimes headlines, about the high inflation rate, and locals were upset about the rising costs for groceries, restaurants, rent, etc. Internal airfares went up 18% right after we left.

We found the Moon Guidebook for Argentina very helpful. It was published in December, 2007. Even then, 6 months later the prices they quoted were already quite out of date.

In any case, AR's a bargain compared to Europe or the U.S. Locals in BA said tourism from the U.S. has grown incredibly there in the last six months especially, and they attributed some of it to the value of the dollar vs. the Euro. Glad we went when we did!

flintstones

Thank You, pshamrock, for your great report. I am glad you really enjoy yur time in this area and happy that you have wonderful memories.
Always I pass in fornt of the Obelisc I remember your purchase.
Flintstones.

flintstones

Have I thanked you???
Nice memories from that trip!
Flintstones