Trip Report - 18 days in Costa Rica!!
Aug 8th, 2004, 03:20 PM
#21
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(Part 7)
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (Caribbean Coast)
Getting there - The drive from Arenal, down Hwy 4 to Hwy 32 to Hwy 36, was pleasant, scenic, and easy, except for all the slow trucks on Hwy 32. We had to pass many of them, which was a little nerve racking. The whole trip, including a stop for lunch, took about six hours. We stopped for lunch at Buffalo Ranch (?) on Hwy. 32, just east of the Pacuare River. The food was delicious and our whole meal including beverages was around $7. I had the fish (tilapia) casado and he had the beef casado. Both were excellent.
Hotel - Puerto Viejo Bed and Breakfast - http://www.c-rica.com/bb.htm
We spent one night at this B&B on our way down to Bocas del Toro, Panama. The owners, Doug and Rozine, are very friendly and fun to talk with. They have two comfortable rooms for rent for $20 each. You share a bath with them and the guest in the other room. There was a nice young couple from Switzerland staying in the other room the other night we were there. They were also fun to talk with. The B&B is at the south end of town, within easy walking distance of the stores, restaurants, and beaches right there in town. We had to leave too early for breakfast in the morning, but Rozine offered us some juice and toast. They were nice enough to let us do a couple loads of laundry, with the promise that we would bring Rozine some cheeze-wiz from Panama! They also let us leave our car in their driveway and two pieces of luggage in their closet, while we were in Panama. We would have stayed with them on our way back too, but they had already rented out both rooms for that night.
Restaurants
Chile Rojo - This is a little restaurant in town, which serves an eclectic mix of Thai, Indian, and Mediterranean food. The Canadian owner goes out of his way to get all the ingredients to make tasty and authentic food, which is also very reasonably priced. I highly recommend this restaurant.
Lava (?) Rock Cafe - I think this was the name. It's on the beach side of the main road. We had a quick lunch here on our way north. Simple, reasonably priced food.
Puerto Viejo Activities
Beaches!! - The beaches south of Puerto Viejo are gorgeous. I really wish we had planned to spend more time in the area. The best ones we saw were Punta Cochles, just south of town, and Punta Uva a little further south. I highly recommend visiting these beaches. The weather on the Caribbean coast was hot but beautiful. It actually rained less than on the Pacific Coast.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (Caribbean Coast)
Getting there - The drive from Arenal, down Hwy 4 to Hwy 32 to Hwy 36, was pleasant, scenic, and easy, except for all the slow trucks on Hwy 32. We had to pass many of them, which was a little nerve racking. The whole trip, including a stop for lunch, took about six hours. We stopped for lunch at Buffalo Ranch (?) on Hwy. 32, just east of the Pacuare River. The food was delicious and our whole meal including beverages was around $7. I had the fish (tilapia) casado and he had the beef casado. Both were excellent.
Hotel - Puerto Viejo Bed and Breakfast - http://www.c-rica.com/bb.htm
We spent one night at this B&B on our way down to Bocas del Toro, Panama. The owners, Doug and Rozine, are very friendly and fun to talk with. They have two comfortable rooms for rent for $20 each. You share a bath with them and the guest in the other room. There was a nice young couple from Switzerland staying in the other room the other night we were there. They were also fun to talk with. The B&B is at the south end of town, within easy walking distance of the stores, restaurants, and beaches right there in town. We had to leave too early for breakfast in the morning, but Rozine offered us some juice and toast. They were nice enough to let us do a couple loads of laundry, with the promise that we would bring Rozine some cheeze-wiz from Panama! They also let us leave our car in their driveway and two pieces of luggage in their closet, while we were in Panama. We would have stayed with them on our way back too, but they had already rented out both rooms for that night.
Restaurants
Chile Rojo - This is a little restaurant in town, which serves an eclectic mix of Thai, Indian, and Mediterranean food. The Canadian owner goes out of his way to get all the ingredients to make tasty and authentic food, which is also very reasonably priced. I highly recommend this restaurant.
Lava (?) Rock Cafe - I think this was the name. It's on the beach side of the main road. We had a quick lunch here on our way north. Simple, reasonably priced food.
Puerto Viejo Activities
Beaches!! - The beaches south of Puerto Viejo are gorgeous. I really wish we had planned to spend more time in the area. The best ones we saw were Punta Cochles, just south of town, and Punta Uva a little further south. I highly recommend visiting these beaches. The weather on the Caribbean coast was hot but beautiful. It actually rained less than on the Pacific Coast.
Aug 8th, 2004, 03:54 PM
#22
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LA - I keep reading about people having the back deck at Arenal Paraiso - we supposedly had a deluxe cabin, but only had a front porch that I was aware of - no entrance to a back deck from our room. I noticed they were building there while we were there, so I wonder if some of the rooms are newer & could be the reason why I wasn't so impressed with the place. Maybe we had an older "deluxe" cabin??? Just a thought. I definitely didn't have the friendly service you had at the reception either. I guess it's just hit or miss.
Aug 8th, 2004, 04:01 PM
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(Part 8)
Bocas del Toro, Panama
Getting There - We were a bit nervous about the journey down to Panama, but it went much smoother and easier than we anticipated. We condensed our stuff into 1 bag plus a small backpack for the trip and left the rest of our stuff at the B&B in Puerto Viejo. We walked to the bus stop in Puerto Viejo to catch the 8:15 AM bus (which arrived around 8:40) and quickly met many other travelers heading to Panama. The bus ride to the boarder (Sixaola) took a little under two hours, including many stops along the way. The bus was comfortable and not crowded. At the boarder, several men are waiting for the bus, ready to "help" us all across the boarder. They offered to carry our bags, which we all declined swiftly! First you check out of Costa Rica at a small office and then cross the "bridge" to Panama. This bridge is long and looks about as safe, if not worse, than the ones heading south toward Quepos. There is a pedestrian walkway until the middle, which is the actual boarder. Then you have to walk across these boards VERY CAREFULLY until you reach the other side. Try to time this between the trucks and busses or else it could get pretty hairy. Over all, the bridge was less scary than I was expecting given everything I had heard in advance. A man walked me down to a small store where I could exchange some Colones to U.S. money, since nobody in Panama accepts Colones. He asked for a dollar tip, no big deal. We did get slightly jacked on the exchange rate. It ended up costing us about $7 or $8 to exchange about $100 U.S. Our "friends" then helped us into their buddy's cab for the ride to Finca 60 to catch the water taxi. Our cab driver was one of the most helpful people I've ever met! There were six of us in his extended cab truck (2 riding in the truck bed) heading for the water taxi. We were running late to catch the 12:30 boat, so he stopped and called Bocas Marine Tours and asked them to hold the boat for us. They did and that saved us from having to wait until 2:00. He also made arrangements with them to drop us off directly at our hotel, Punta Caracol, on the way to Bocas, so we wouldn't have to go to town first and then take another water taxi. Bocas Marine Tours runs a smooth boat ride between Finca 60 (just beyond Changuinola) and Bocas Del Toro, for $5 per person. The ride is also quite scenic.
Getting Back - On the way back we decided to take a cab from Sixaola to Puerto Viejo since it would be over an hour wait for the bus. The first cab driver quoted us $25,000 colones and then the second quoted us $5,000 colones. We went with the cheaper cab and the first guy got really mad and was screaming at our cab driver! Just outside of town, we got stopped at a police checkpoint. They checked our passports and then asked to see our cab drivers paperwork. They didn't like something, so they detained him in an office for about twenty minutes. Meanwhile, the angry cab driver was hanging around like a vulture, hoping that our cab driver wouldn't be able to take us. We talked him down to 12,000 colones, but then the cops let our guys go, so we were back on the road again with him. The ride took about 45 minutes. When we got out of the cab, he demanded $20 rather than the 5,000 colones. We were planning on tipping him $5 anyway, so we gave him the 5,000 colones, plus the $5 and he was happy with that.
Hotels
Punta Caracol Aqualodge - http://www.puntacaracol.com/index.htm
This place is located on a dock over an amazing, crystal clear, lagoon, complete with large schools of small, bright green, flying fish. The atmosphere is really serine and this would be a great place to get away from it all; however, they are currently under really load construction. I was really looking forward to the snorkeling from the little deck on our room, but after a few minutes we started seeing a lot of jellyfish in the water, so I was a bit nervous about swimming. That really bummed me out, because the water was so warm, clear, and beautiful. We tried again the next day and did a little more until I saw another jellyfish after about half-an-hour. I also got some sort of rash on my upper arm while we were there. I'm not sure if it was "sea-scratch" from the jellyfish or a heat rash from not having air-conditioning. The room was a really cute bungalow right over the water. The downstairs is very comfortable with a nice sun deck. The bed is upstairs, which could use some better cross-ventilation. They are currently building three new bungalows and the construction was intrusively load during the day. The nights are very peaceful though. I would recommend visiting here when the construction is complete and preferably when it's not jellyfish season (whenever that may be). Breakfast, dinner, and a welcome drink are included in the room rate, which is pretty high. They offer many day tours by boat, although we decided to just relax during the full day that we were there. They will also pick you up and drop you off in Bocas del Toro for your arrival and departure. Trips into town on their boats are expensive. Note: they have no change on premises, so bring your own if you want to tip. Also, they accept credit cards, but you have to go to town for them to run the card upon departure.
Hotel Bocas del Toro - http://www.bocas.com/hbocas.htm
After our two nights at Punta Caracol, they brought to town to settle our tab and then paid for our cab to the Hotel Bocas del Toro. The small hotel is located right in town, over the water. Our room had air conditioning, cable TV., and a nice little balcony overlooking the water. We could sit there and watch all the little boats coming and going every which way. We had originally planned on taking a boat or snorkeling tour this day, but do the heat, jellyfish, and late time of day, we opted to forgo the tour. There was an Internet cafe near by for $2 per hour, where we could check our e-mail. The hotel also has a restaurant, but it was out of lobster that night so we didn't eat there. I believe they provide continental breakfast, but we didn't wake up early enough to check it out.
Restaurants
There was a small restaurant to the left of the hotel where we ate lunch, but I can't remember its name. We had delicious food and even tastier drinks for really cheap! Many of the restaurants also have happy hours.
El Limbo On-The-Sea restaurant
This was to the right of our hotel. I had lobster and my husband had fish. Both meals were delicious and very reasonably priced. This restaurant was very busy!
Bocas del Toro, Panama
Getting There - We were a bit nervous about the journey down to Panama, but it went much smoother and easier than we anticipated. We condensed our stuff into 1 bag plus a small backpack for the trip and left the rest of our stuff at the B&B in Puerto Viejo. We walked to the bus stop in Puerto Viejo to catch the 8:15 AM bus (which arrived around 8:40) and quickly met many other travelers heading to Panama. The bus ride to the boarder (Sixaola) took a little under two hours, including many stops along the way. The bus was comfortable and not crowded. At the boarder, several men are waiting for the bus, ready to "help" us all across the boarder. They offered to carry our bags, which we all declined swiftly! First you check out of Costa Rica at a small office and then cross the "bridge" to Panama. This bridge is long and looks about as safe, if not worse, than the ones heading south toward Quepos. There is a pedestrian walkway until the middle, which is the actual boarder. Then you have to walk across these boards VERY CAREFULLY until you reach the other side. Try to time this between the trucks and busses or else it could get pretty hairy. Over all, the bridge was less scary than I was expecting given everything I had heard in advance. A man walked me down to a small store where I could exchange some Colones to U.S. money, since nobody in Panama accepts Colones. He asked for a dollar tip, no big deal. We did get slightly jacked on the exchange rate. It ended up costing us about $7 or $8 to exchange about $100 U.S. Our "friends" then helped us into their buddy's cab for the ride to Finca 60 to catch the water taxi. Our cab driver was one of the most helpful people I've ever met! There were six of us in his extended cab truck (2 riding in the truck bed) heading for the water taxi. We were running late to catch the 12:30 boat, so he stopped and called Bocas Marine Tours and asked them to hold the boat for us. They did and that saved us from having to wait until 2:00. He also made arrangements with them to drop us off directly at our hotel, Punta Caracol, on the way to Bocas, so we wouldn't have to go to town first and then take another water taxi. Bocas Marine Tours runs a smooth boat ride between Finca 60 (just beyond Changuinola) and Bocas Del Toro, for $5 per person. The ride is also quite scenic.
Getting Back - On the way back we decided to take a cab from Sixaola to Puerto Viejo since it would be over an hour wait for the bus. The first cab driver quoted us $25,000 colones and then the second quoted us $5,000 colones. We went with the cheaper cab and the first guy got really mad and was screaming at our cab driver! Just outside of town, we got stopped at a police checkpoint. They checked our passports and then asked to see our cab drivers paperwork. They didn't like something, so they detained him in an office for about twenty minutes. Meanwhile, the angry cab driver was hanging around like a vulture, hoping that our cab driver wouldn't be able to take us. We talked him down to 12,000 colones, but then the cops let our guys go, so we were back on the road again with him. The ride took about 45 minutes. When we got out of the cab, he demanded $20 rather than the 5,000 colones. We were planning on tipping him $5 anyway, so we gave him the 5,000 colones, plus the $5 and he was happy with that.
Hotels
Punta Caracol Aqualodge - http://www.puntacaracol.com/index.htm
This place is located on a dock over an amazing, crystal clear, lagoon, complete with large schools of small, bright green, flying fish. The atmosphere is really serine and this would be a great place to get away from it all; however, they are currently under really load construction. I was really looking forward to the snorkeling from the little deck on our room, but after a few minutes we started seeing a lot of jellyfish in the water, so I was a bit nervous about swimming. That really bummed me out, because the water was so warm, clear, and beautiful. We tried again the next day and did a little more until I saw another jellyfish after about half-an-hour. I also got some sort of rash on my upper arm while we were there. I'm not sure if it was "sea-scratch" from the jellyfish or a heat rash from not having air-conditioning. The room was a really cute bungalow right over the water. The downstairs is very comfortable with a nice sun deck. The bed is upstairs, which could use some better cross-ventilation. They are currently building three new bungalows and the construction was intrusively load during the day. The nights are very peaceful though. I would recommend visiting here when the construction is complete and preferably when it's not jellyfish season (whenever that may be). Breakfast, dinner, and a welcome drink are included in the room rate, which is pretty high. They offer many day tours by boat, although we decided to just relax during the full day that we were there. They will also pick you up and drop you off in Bocas del Toro for your arrival and departure. Trips into town on their boats are expensive. Note: they have no change on premises, so bring your own if you want to tip. Also, they accept credit cards, but you have to go to town for them to run the card upon departure.
Hotel Bocas del Toro - http://www.bocas.com/hbocas.htm
After our two nights at Punta Caracol, they brought to town to settle our tab and then paid for our cab to the Hotel Bocas del Toro. The small hotel is located right in town, over the water. Our room had air conditioning, cable TV., and a nice little balcony overlooking the water. We could sit there and watch all the little boats coming and going every which way. We had originally planned on taking a boat or snorkeling tour this day, but do the heat, jellyfish, and late time of day, we opted to forgo the tour. There was an Internet cafe near by for $2 per hour, where we could check our e-mail. The hotel also has a restaurant, but it was out of lobster that night so we didn't eat there. I believe they provide continental breakfast, but we didn't wake up early enough to check it out.
Restaurants
There was a small restaurant to the left of the hotel where we ate lunch, but I can't remember its name. We had delicious food and even tastier drinks for really cheap! Many of the restaurants also have happy hours.
El Limbo On-The-Sea restaurant
This was to the right of our hotel. I had lobster and my husband had fish. Both meals were delicious and very reasonably priced. This restaurant was very busy!
Aug 8th, 2004, 04:10 PM
#24
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Sclubb,
Our room at Arenal Paraiso had two doors, one in the front to the glassed in front porch and one in the back to a small wooden deck overlooking the jungle. Maybe you're right about old vs. new. The staff was quite friendly to us, but I saw in their guest book where other people had recently experienced bad service, so it probably is hit or miss.
Our room at Arenal Paraiso had two doors, one in the front to the glassed in front porch and one in the back to a small wooden deck overlooking the jungle. Maybe you're right about old vs. new. The staff was quite friendly to us, but I saw in their guest book where other people had recently experienced bad service, so it probably is hit or miss.
Aug 8th, 2004, 04:27 PM
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(Part 9)
Cahuita
Getting There - The drive to Cahuita from Puerto Viejo only takes about 30 or 45 minutes and is very easy. We got there kind of late, so we didn't have time to go to the park or do any real sight seeing. We stopped in town and picked up some over priced Imperials at a small "Super".
Hotel - Atlantida Lodge - http://www.atlantida.co.cr
This hotel has a decent swimming pool with a little bar and served the purpose of giving us a place to stay and cool down for a night. Playa Negra is right across the street, so we took a nice stroll down there for while at sunset. A couple dogs latched on to us at the beach. They were a lot of fun to play with! Our room was very basic, but not terrible for $40. I wouldn't want to spend more than a night or maybe two there. It's close enough to town to be convenient though. This would make a decent base for exploring Cahuita National Park.
Cahuita Restaurant
Cha Cha Cha! - This restaurant has a wonderful variety of dishes. Everything is fresh, tastefully prepared, and very reasonably priced. They don't have a lot of tables and they are very busy, so you may have to wait a little while. My pasta was delightful. I really recommend eating here.
We saw a couple bars in the middle of town that appeared to be rocking (Saturday night), but we were too tired to venture in.
I really wish we had more time to spend on the Caribbean. We would love to tour the park in Cahuita and spend some time on the beautiful beaches.
Cahuita
Getting There - The drive to Cahuita from Puerto Viejo only takes about 30 or 45 minutes and is very easy. We got there kind of late, so we didn't have time to go to the park or do any real sight seeing. We stopped in town and picked up some over priced Imperials at a small "Super".
Hotel - Atlantida Lodge - http://www.atlantida.co.cr
This hotel has a decent swimming pool with a little bar and served the purpose of giving us a place to stay and cool down for a night. Playa Negra is right across the street, so we took a nice stroll down there for while at sunset. A couple dogs latched on to us at the beach. They were a lot of fun to play with! Our room was very basic, but not terrible for $40. I wouldn't want to spend more than a night or maybe two there. It's close enough to town to be convenient though. This would make a decent base for exploring Cahuita National Park.
Cahuita Restaurant
Cha Cha Cha! - This restaurant has a wonderful variety of dishes. Everything is fresh, tastefully prepared, and very reasonably priced. They don't have a lot of tables and they are very busy, so you may have to wait a little while. My pasta was delightful. I really recommend eating here.
We saw a couple bars in the middle of town that appeared to be rocking (Saturday night), but we were too tired to venture in.
I really wish we had more time to spend on the Caribbean. We would love to tour the park in Cahuita and spend some time on the beautiful beaches.
Aug 8th, 2004, 04:42 PM
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LAFadeAway,
We have really enjoyed reading your very well written reports. Especially the Panama portions which sound very interesting. I'm anxious to hear about where you decided to stay on the way to Peace Lodge, but I'll be patient! Sounds like Bocas del Toro is definitely worth a visit! Okay, diganos mas!
We have really enjoyed reading your very well written reports. Especially the Panama portions which sound very interesting. I'm anxious to hear about where you decided to stay on the way to Peace Lodge, but I'll be patient! Sounds like Bocas del Toro is definitely worth a visit! Okay, diganos mas!
Aug 8th, 2004, 05:37 PM
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(Part 10)
Varablanca - La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Getting There - The drive from Cahuita was quite easy and took about four and a half hours including lunch. We backtracked the same way we had come down from Arenal and then just stayed south at San Miguel instead of staying on Hwy 4. The road to the Waterfall Gardens is narrow and curvy, but very pretty. We stopped for lunch at Elli's just West of the Pacuare River on the south side of the road. Once again this restaurant had delicious and cheap food. On another note, there is a passport check just north of Cahuita. They also asked if we had any guns and had us open the glove box so they could take a peek.
Hotel - Peace Lodge
This hotel is located on the grounds of the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. It's expensive, but you also get breakfast and admission to the Waterfall Gardens. This was our favorite hotel of everywhere we stayed. Spend the extra money for the deluxe room. The room was just spectacular. Everything from the two Jacuzzi tubs (one in our bathroom and one on the deck) to the luxurious linens on the bad was just superb. I can't even begin to describe the "rainforest" bathroom. It is just stunning. The waterfall shower is the best shower I've ever taken in my life. The hotel also has a larger hot tub, a small warm pool with a waterfall, and a cold pool. The pools are small, but they are nice and relaxing. The rainforest and mountain views from our room were gorgeous. You may want to pick up some snacks and beverages on your way to Peace Lodge, since there really isn't much close by.
Restaurant
The dinners at Peace Lodge are upstairs in a cozy room. The service is excellent, but the food was just average in my opinion. We ate there both nights due to the convenience. The menu does not change from night to night, but it has an adequate number of choices. Dinners are $20 per person, plus drinks. The wine was $18 per bottle.
Breakfast is available in the main dining room or by room service. If you go to the dining room, they have a buffet, but they will also cook eggs, omelets, and pancakes to order. We had the room service one morning and it was really nice. They set it up on our balcony for us.
We did not try their lunch.
Activities
La Paz Waterfall Gardens - We walked through the butterfly garden and the hummingbird garden before venturing down to the Waterfall trail. The butterflies and hummingbirds are so beautiful! The waterfalls are all large and powerful and the mist coming off them feels great. The hike is a little rough, just because there are a zillion steps down and then you have to walk up a good ways at the end. I worked up a pretty good sweat on that walk, but it was worth it.
Poas Volcano - We drove ourselves to the volcano one morning. We got there early, but even the guard collecting our $7 warned that it was "very cloudy" that day. It looked sort of clear from our room before we left, so we gave it a try. It's an easy half-mile walk to the "lookout" point. However, keep in mind that it is very cold, windy, and wet up top. We weren't really prepared and it was COLD!!! The wind was ruthless. I had a rain poncho, which helped a little. We stood underneath the place where people go up to take pictures, to get out of the rain, and waited for the clouds to lift. We waited and waited and waited. After freezing for two hours, we finally gave up. All we got to see was a small section of the top of the crater, no beautiful blue lake
. Oh well, we knew our great luck had to run out some time.
Doka Coffee Plantation - We saw signs for this, so we decided to give them a visit. It was about 40 minutes south of Poas. The tour was $16 and took an hour and a half to two hours. We were tired and decided not to do the whole tour. We still got to sample some of their coffees and take pictures of the coffee field. They have a nice gift shop with a lot of cool art and nick knacks. We bought a bunch of coffee and some souvenirs before heading back to Peace Lodge.
Varablanca - La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Getting There - The drive from Cahuita was quite easy and took about four and a half hours including lunch. We backtracked the same way we had come down from Arenal and then just stayed south at San Miguel instead of staying on Hwy 4. The road to the Waterfall Gardens is narrow and curvy, but very pretty. We stopped for lunch at Elli's just West of the Pacuare River on the south side of the road. Once again this restaurant had delicious and cheap food. On another note, there is a passport check just north of Cahuita. They also asked if we had any guns and had us open the glove box so they could take a peek.
Hotel - Peace Lodge
This hotel is located on the grounds of the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. It's expensive, but you also get breakfast and admission to the Waterfall Gardens. This was our favorite hotel of everywhere we stayed. Spend the extra money for the deluxe room. The room was just spectacular. Everything from the two Jacuzzi tubs (one in our bathroom and one on the deck) to the luxurious linens on the bad was just superb. I can't even begin to describe the "rainforest" bathroom. It is just stunning. The waterfall shower is the best shower I've ever taken in my life. The hotel also has a larger hot tub, a small warm pool with a waterfall, and a cold pool. The pools are small, but they are nice and relaxing. The rainforest and mountain views from our room were gorgeous. You may want to pick up some snacks and beverages on your way to Peace Lodge, since there really isn't much close by.
Restaurant
The dinners at Peace Lodge are upstairs in a cozy room. The service is excellent, but the food was just average in my opinion. We ate there both nights due to the convenience. The menu does not change from night to night, but it has an adequate number of choices. Dinners are $20 per person, plus drinks. The wine was $18 per bottle.
Breakfast is available in the main dining room or by room service. If you go to the dining room, they have a buffet, but they will also cook eggs, omelets, and pancakes to order. We had the room service one morning and it was really nice. They set it up on our balcony for us.
We did not try their lunch.
Activities
La Paz Waterfall Gardens - We walked through the butterfly garden and the hummingbird garden before venturing down to the Waterfall trail. The butterflies and hummingbirds are so beautiful! The waterfalls are all large and powerful and the mist coming off them feels great. The hike is a little rough, just because there are a zillion steps down and then you have to walk up a good ways at the end. I worked up a pretty good sweat on that walk, but it was worth it.
Poas Volcano - We drove ourselves to the volcano one morning. We got there early, but even the guard collecting our $7 warned that it was "very cloudy" that day. It looked sort of clear from our room before we left, so we gave it a try. It's an easy half-mile walk to the "lookout" point. However, keep in mind that it is very cold, windy, and wet up top. We weren't really prepared and it was COLD!!! The wind was ruthless. I had a rain poncho, which helped a little. We stood underneath the place where people go up to take pictures, to get out of the rain, and waited for the clouds to lift. We waited and waited and waited. After freezing for two hours, we finally gave up. All we got to see was a small section of the top of the crater, no beautiful blue lake
. Oh well, we knew our great luck had to run out some time.Doka Coffee Plantation - We saw signs for this, so we decided to give them a visit. It was about 40 minutes south of Poas. The tour was $16 and took an hour and a half to two hours. We were tired and decided not to do the whole tour. We still got to sample some of their coffees and take pictures of the coffee field. They have a nice gift shop with a lot of cool art and nick knacks. We bought a bunch of coffee and some souvenirs before heading back to Peace Lodge.
Aug 8th, 2004, 05:44 PM
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(Part 11)
Final Thoughts
I think the highlights of our trip were the awesome weather, amazing wildlife, beautiful beaches, seeing the lava on Arenal, and meeting so many great people.
The worst part for me was all the bugs! I got bit everywhere we went, no matter if I wore bug spray or if there was mosquito netting or whatever. I went through a box of Benadryl and a tube and a half of cortisone trying to stop the itch. It sometimes kept me up at night. My husband didn't get bit nearly as bad. Bugs just seem to like me.
We are really glad that we chose to drive ourselves. Having a car gave us a lot of freedom and the roads and other drivers weren't nearly as bad as we had expected.
Overall, we absolutely loved our trip to Costa Rica. I'm sure we'll be back some day!
Please feel free to ask me any questions you might have and I'll try to help.
Final Thoughts
I think the highlights of our trip were the awesome weather, amazing wildlife, beautiful beaches, seeing the lava on Arenal, and meeting so many great people.
The worst part for me was all the bugs! I got bit everywhere we went, no matter if I wore bug spray or if there was mosquito netting or whatever. I went through a box of Benadryl and a tube and a half of cortisone trying to stop the itch. It sometimes kept me up at night. My husband didn't get bit nearly as bad. Bugs just seem to like me.
We are really glad that we chose to drive ourselves. Having a car gave us a lot of freedom and the roads and other drivers weren't nearly as bad as we had expected.
Overall, we absolutely loved our trip to Costa Rica. I'm sure we'll be back some day!
Please feel free to ask me any questions you might have and I'll try to help.
Aug 8th, 2004, 05:51 PM
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LA, thanks again for such a wonderfully detailed report. You are right, you did have some wonderful highlights--seeing the volcano this time of year--what luck! Sorry you had such problems with bites--I've been very lucky there, knock on wood! You must be much sweeter! Safe travels on your upcoming trips to the northeast and Jamaica. Have a great time!
Aug 9th, 2004, 06:35 AM
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LA,
Thanks for the fabulously detailed trip report! We leave for our trip next Sunday -- I'm so excited!
I just have a quick question regarding La Paz Waterfall Gardens. How strenuous is the hike to see the falls? (Say, for people -ages 9 thru 70- who've only had 2-3 hours sleep the night before.)I've read that you can take a shuttle back up to the parking lot.
Here's the reason I'm asking --We are taking the TACA red-eye from LA (which means we get to LAX at 10:30pm - not expecting to get much sleep on the flight) and into San Jose at 8:45 am. Our driver suggested a stop at the Waterfall Gardens on the way to Arenal Paraiso, where we have reservations that first night. Of course, now I'm wishing I had made reservations at the Peace Lodge our first night, but that's beside the point. I'm just a little worried that we may be too exhausted to enjoy the falls.
Also, could you expand on the Jaco as a "reincarnation of hell" remark? Is it really that bad? Should we avoid it like the plague?
Thanks again for being so helpful!
Thanks for the fabulously detailed trip report! We leave for our trip next Sunday -- I'm so excited!
I just have a quick question regarding La Paz Waterfall Gardens. How strenuous is the hike to see the falls? (Say, for people -ages 9 thru 70- who've only had 2-3 hours sleep the night before.)I've read that you can take a shuttle back up to the parking lot.
Here's the reason I'm asking --We are taking the TACA red-eye from LA (which means we get to LAX at 10:30pm - not expecting to get much sleep on the flight) and into San Jose at 8:45 am. Our driver suggested a stop at the Waterfall Gardens on the way to Arenal Paraiso, where we have reservations that first night. Of course, now I'm wishing I had made reservations at the Peace Lodge our first night, but that's beside the point. I'm just a little worried that we may be too exhausted to enjoy the falls.
Also, could you expand on the Jaco as a "reincarnation of hell" remark? Is it really that bad? Should we avoid it like the plague?
Thanks again for being so helpful!
Aug 9th, 2004, 10:53 AM
#33
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Ivk,
The last waterfall on the trail at La Paz can be seen very well from the road, which may be what your driver is suggesting that you do. The walk down all the steps can be rough on your knees, especially for an older person. Also, even though there is a shuttle at the "bottom", you have to walk up many flights of stairs from the last two waterfalls if you want to see them. Even if you skip the last two, the walk to the shuttle is up hill and has a lot of steps. The waterfalls are absolutely beautiful, but it may be a little rough if you're tired and pressed for time.
As far as Jaco is concerned, it just reminded me too much of a crowded Panama City Beach or Daytona Beach atmosphere and the beach wasn't pretty to me at all. The restaurant we went to was way overpriced and the food wasn't good. I personally would never stay there. I would save my money and go to Florida if I wanted that type of atmosphere. Costa Rica has too many other wonderful things to offer.
The last waterfall on the trail at La Paz can be seen very well from the road, which may be what your driver is suggesting that you do. The walk down all the steps can be rough on your knees, especially for an older person. Also, even though there is a shuttle at the "bottom", you have to walk up many flights of stairs from the last two waterfalls if you want to see them. Even if you skip the last two, the walk to the shuttle is up hill and has a lot of steps. The waterfalls are absolutely beautiful, but it may be a little rough if you're tired and pressed for time.
As far as Jaco is concerned, it just reminded me too much of a crowded Panama City Beach or Daytona Beach atmosphere and the beach wasn't pretty to me at all. The restaurant we went to was way overpriced and the food wasn't good. I personally would never stay there. I would save my money and go to Florida if I wanted that type of atmosphere. Costa Rica has too many other wonderful things to offer.
Sep 5th, 2004, 05:44 PM
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Dear LA_FadeAway,
I'm booked into one of the Banano Beach bungalows next week and I was wondering if you would mind sharing more details regarding their construction. When I called to book my bungalow, the reservation agent mentioned the construction but said it was 100 meters away. I guess I'm just concerned about how it affects the sound level and look of the property. Do you think it could interfere with a trip where rest and relaxation matter?
I requested a bungalow just steps away from the beach. They said they could provide that. In your opinion, will I get what I asked for? I was also told there is a lovely pool near the bungalow area of the hotel. Did you not see or use this pool?
Did you do any research on other hotels in this specific area? I figured, if the noise and dirt turned me off, I'd switch to another hotel. Any recs?
I'm not sure I have accurate info on tap water. either. Is it safe here? Did you need to be concerned about eating raw vegetables in the local restaurants?
Thank you kindly, in advance, for your response.
I'm booked into one of the Banano Beach bungalows next week and I was wondering if you would mind sharing more details regarding their construction. When I called to book my bungalow, the reservation agent mentioned the construction but said it was 100 meters away. I guess I'm just concerned about how it affects the sound level and look of the property. Do you think it could interfere with a trip where rest and relaxation matter?
I requested a bungalow just steps away from the beach. They said they could provide that. In your opinion, will I get what I asked for? I was also told there is a lovely pool near the bungalow area of the hotel. Did you not see or use this pool?
Did you do any research on other hotels in this specific area? I figured, if the noise and dirt turned me off, I'd switch to another hotel. Any recs?
I'm not sure I have accurate info on tap water. either. Is it safe here? Did you need to be concerned about eating raw vegetables in the local restaurants?
Thank you kindly, in advance, for your response.
Sep 5th, 2004, 06:04 PM
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Matthu,
LA Fadeaway has been away from the board for awhile. Traveling, I believe! Hopefully someone else will be able to advise you concerning the hotel. As for tap water, eating vegetables, fruits, etc., no worries. All very safe! We've never taken any precautions anywhere in Costa Rica. The only place where we have ever been aware of non-potable water was in the restrooms up on Vulcan Irazu. And there were signs posted.
LA Fadeaway has been away from the board for awhile. Traveling, I believe! Hopefully someone else will be able to advise you concerning the hotel. As for tap water, eating vegetables, fruits, etc., no worries. All very safe! We've never taken any precautions anywhere in Costa Rica. The only place where we have ever been aware of non-potable water was in the restrooms up on Vulcan Irazu. And there were signs posted.
Sep 6th, 2004, 07:27 PM
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Dear Matthu:
We stayed at Sano Banano July 19-24 and thoroughly enjoyed it! We stayed in Coco Joe's bungalow which was a very short walk away from the beach(with a wonderful view of the beach)--there are several bungalows about the same distance from the beach close by and a couple more set back in the hillside. When we were there, noise from the construction was not a problem at all--the sound of the crashing surf , I think, effectively nullified any of that. I don't know if it has changed in the past month--others would be able to tell you. The pool at Sano Banano is very lovely--has little waterfalls at one end that provide a nice massage for aching shoulder muscles. The grounds are beautifully planted, we had a troop of capuchins come through morning and evening to visit --very curious. We saw coatimundi, howler monkeys, and lizards of all sorts--something my children loved. The beach immediately in front of the property is not good for swimming as it is very rocky. Further north--about 3 beaches, I think, is Playa Grande--wide, no rocks, great for body surfing. We had a blast there. By the way, you have to walk to these beaches.
I highly recommend this place--great service, restaurant, really nice people.
We had no problems with food or water anywhere we went in Costa Rica--we've been there twice. We ended up staying five nights at Sano Banano and found it to be extremely relaxing --a little bit of paradise.
We stayed at Sano Banano July 19-24 and thoroughly enjoyed it! We stayed in Coco Joe's bungalow which was a very short walk away from the beach(with a wonderful view of the beach)--there are several bungalows about the same distance from the beach close by and a couple more set back in the hillside. When we were there, noise from the construction was not a problem at all--the sound of the crashing surf , I think, effectively nullified any of that. I don't know if it has changed in the past month--others would be able to tell you. The pool at Sano Banano is very lovely--has little waterfalls at one end that provide a nice massage for aching shoulder muscles. The grounds are beautifully planted, we had a troop of capuchins come through morning and evening to visit --very curious. We saw coatimundi, howler monkeys, and lizards of all sorts--something my children loved. The beach immediately in front of the property is not good for swimming as it is very rocky. Further north--about 3 beaches, I think, is Playa Grande--wide, no rocks, great for body surfing. We had a blast there. By the way, you have to walk to these beaches.
I highly recommend this place--great service, restaurant, really nice people.
We had no problems with food or water anywhere we went in Costa Rica--we've been there twice. We ended up staying five nights at Sano Banano and found it to be extremely relaxing --a little bit of paradise.
Sep 7th, 2004, 09:34 PM
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Dear Sharon,
I can not thank you enough for your reply to my posting. Wonderful advise with several aspects of Costa Rica I am looking forward to experiencing for myself.
I am currently arranging my trasportation from San Jose Airport to Montezuma and am saddly running into issues. It turns out that I will most likely not have the time to catch the last plane to Tambor which will get me a quick 30min car ride from Montezuma. How did you venture to Montezuma? I am desperately trying to avoid the bus. I was wondering about taking a taxi from San jose to Montezuma. I assume this must be very expensive. What are your thoughts? Do you have any idea of how much a taxi would cost?
Thank you so very much!
Matthu
I can not thank you enough for your reply to my posting. Wonderful advise with several aspects of Costa Rica I am looking forward to experiencing for myself.
I am currently arranging my trasportation from San Jose Airport to Montezuma and am saddly running into issues. It turns out that I will most likely not have the time to catch the last plane to Tambor which will get me a quick 30min car ride from Montezuma. How did you venture to Montezuma? I am desperately trying to avoid the bus. I was wondering about taking a taxi from San jose to Montezuma. I assume this must be very expensive. What are your thoughts? Do you have any idea of how much a taxi would cost?
Thank you so very much!
Matthu
Sep 8th, 2004, 07:50 AM
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Matthu--We did not take taxis at all when in Costa Rica. We rented 4WD vehicles both times because it's more comfortable for us to travel with two very tall teenagers in our own vehicle and go at the pace that we feel comfortable with. We drove to Puntarenas(a couple of hours) and took the Paquera car ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya. That was about 1 1/2 hours with an additional 1 hour or so from Paquera to Montezuma. There's quite a lot of road construction along that route right now so travel time may vary. My husband loves driving the rocky, potholed roads so we make pretty good time. I'm sorry I can't be of any assistance regarding taxis. Maybe somebody else will respond with advice for you. Hope you enjoy your trip! As soon as we got back from CR both times I started dreaming about our next trip there. It's really incredible.
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