Jane62

Hi. Sorry in advance this is long. My husband and I and possibly our daughters (who'll be 14 and 11) are planning to come to the Osa Peninsula next summer and I have a ton of questions! As background, husband is very athletic and fit and I am not! The girls love animals but don't love hiking - however, they did enjoy our last trip to Costa Rica in which we visited Arenal and Manuel Antonio. I'm the one driving the trip, and am mainly interested in the wildlife and relaxation.

We'd probably like to keep the trip to about 10 days or 11 max including travel from San Francisco, CA. I definitely want to stay at Bosque del Cabo for several days, and want to have them coincide with some of the days Fodors group is having a get together from June 27-July 4. Don't need to be there that whole time. Here are the things we'd like to do (or possibly do, partly depending upon whether our kids come):

1. Husband is a surfer and will want to surf. I know he can do this from BdC but it's a 10-min drive each way and we don't plan to have a car. I know he can get rides from the Lodge but less convenient than if we stayed for a few days closer to the surfing beaches. I know Encanta La Vida is right on the surfing beaches - thought of staying there but I hear from Tully it's not that great a place (though staff is nice) and is very hot. Also thinking of a few days at Iguana Lodge instead, but is that any closer to the surfing beaches than BdC? Husband is like an advanced intermediate surfer. He doesn't need to surf every day we are there, of course, maybe just a few days. I read on Iguana Lodge website there's a local surfer who will take you surfing (not teach but go with, which is fine for my husband) but I just wonder how far it is.

2. I'm trying to decide whether to go to Corcovado but am leaning towards yes. I'd love to try to see tapir, peccary (or even puma? I know that is not too likely though!) I know you will see most of the Corcovado wildlife at BdC, but tapir not as likely there, right? No way I can hike in to Corcovado - I am overweight and in no shape for that - I can hike around at a leisurely pace for a few hours IN the jungle but think we'd need to boat in or fly in.
-- Also not sure whether to stay overnight.
-- If boat, how likely we'll be seasick, assuming we are people who do get seasick?
-- If plane, how much does it cost and who do we contact?

3. Also considering Cano Island for snorkeling. Not sure kids will want to do it if they come - older daughter very afraid of jellyfish, having been stung in the past. I'd think I'd like to do it if they don't come, though again, should I be concerned about seasickness from boat ride there?

Other possible activities we might want to do are the animal sanctuary and, if in Drake's Bay, the bug lady night tour.

What is the best base for all those activities - Encanta La Vida, Puerto Jiminez (Iguana Lodge) or Drake Bay? I've read it's good to do these activities before getting to BdC as you then don't waste an extra hour each way in time and cost getting to where you'd start the activities. If we were based in Drake's Bay, how do we then get to BdC? It sounds confusing! After reading reviews, I was interested in

And can I fit all this in with 3-5 days at Bosque in the time frame mentioned?

Thanks so much in advance for your expert help!

Jane62

Just realized I didn't finish a sentence there - was trying to say After reading reviews, I was interested in staying at Finca Maresia in Drake Bay if we stayed there but I emailed them 6 days ago and haven't yet heard back.

Would it make any sense to stay at 3 places in the amount of time we have? Drake Bay, Then either Iguana Lodge or Encanta La Vida, and then Puerto Jiminez?

xelas

Getting to La Sirena (which is in heart of Corcovado NP and where it is most likely to sse the baird tapir) is complicated. Since hiking is out of equation, you might take the boat from Drake Bay and air transfer by http://www.alfaromeoair.com/ from Puerto Jimenez. With boat rough sea is your enemy. With air only price.
If going to Drake Bay then fly Nature Air from SJO to DB first, and fly from DB to Puerto Jimenez (there are no flights from PJ to DB). You can stay first at BdC and then at surfing spot. There are nice easy breaks around Pan Dulce area where a home can be rented (just don't know if also for shorter period). Or your husband can drive a car to Cabo Matapalo beach (where best break in Corcovado is (also near is Encanta La Vida). So You will need a car here. Or rent a car in Puerto Jimenez and drive to Uvita/Dominical area where there are more chances for surfing. Second itinerary could be flying to Puerto Jimenez and staying several days at BdC and the transfering to Uvita. Your DH could surf while you can take tours either to Corcovado, Cano Island or inland. Very nice place to check is Tiki Villas Lodge http://www.tikivillas.com/ .

RAC

We stayed at Finca Maresia and used it as our base to boat into Sirena for a two-night stay.

And, yes we did see a tapir. And were within 25 feet of a puma (we didn't see it--only smelled it--but another group came after us and took a picture of it--with their iPhone).

I would email Finca Maresia again--the owners run the place themselves, and might not have seen the message. It's a lovely place and a fantastic bargain.

RKprov

I wouldn't take Encanta la Vida out of consideration. We stayed there last year and really enjoyed it. If you do choose to stay there, I would strongly recommend the upper Deluxe Cabina. The two Deluxe Cabinas are the largest rooms on the property (we looked at all the rooms one day when we were the only guests there). I like the upper one because of the two decks and the views over the property. The wildlife viewing in the area is really good, and you would be very close to two possible surfing beaches (and a short walk to Matapalo). The food at Encanta was also excellent. Sure it's hot, but it's hot just about everywhere in the area. I was only uncomfortable one night out of four, but of course that depends on the weather.

I haven't done the Corcovado hike, but there's so much to see in the area that I really haven't felt the need to do it. From your description of what you're looking for (relaxation, easy hikes, surfing), I would either do a split stay at BdC/Encanta la Vida, or take xelas' advice and do a split between a BdC and someplace in Uvita. Keep in mind you would need a rental car in Uvita, since that area is spread out (but also beautiful). Have fun planning! The area is very special and you really can't go wrong.

RKprov

One other thing -- Iguana Lodge is also a great choice! The beach directly in front of it is stunning and perfect for swimming and boogie boarding (but I don't think so much for surfing). The food there is also great. There's not as much wildlife immediately around Iguana Lodge due to it's location, but the beach is spectacular. It doesn't sound like it's what you're after for this trip, but it's a fun and interesting place.

tully

At Encanta, the upper Deluxe was the one I stayed in. Really could use an update. The netting had holes in it and was so old & warped it would not close. The 2 decks were nice but seemed like every time I tried to go out there to relax, several of the gardeners would gather right below and discuss for a half hour cutting down a branch/tree. Then take the chainsaw to it. Got to be quite annoying. Maybe it was time of the year with so few guests.

But anyway, if you're going to stay down at Matapalo, I would stay much closer to the surfing beaches. I think honestly you'd be good with a split between BdC and Iguana Lodge, especially if surfing may only be 1-2 days.

Jane62

Thanks for the info, everyone. A few more questions:

Jane62

Oops, sorry that got sent before I actually got to ask the questions.

1. Tully, I thought that Encanta was about as close as you could get to the surfing beaches - if it isn't, what is closer? I'm thinking of Pan Dulce and Backwash - I know there's also Pavones but I don't want to stay there.

2. I thought I've seen some people say they stayed at Iguana a few days as a base of operations to do tours before going to BdC where it would be an extra hour or so each way and extra expense to get to tours. If so, then it might work for us, RKprov, and the kids might enjoy the swimming beach in front. But how far is it from there for husband to get to Pan Dulce and Backwash? Does it make more sense to just stay in Drake Bay first - is that closer to taking tours to Cano Island and entering Corcovado (keeping in mind we'd boat or fly in)?

3. xelas made it sound like the only way to get from Drake Bay to Puerto Jiminez (i.e. to transfer to BdC) would be to fly - is that right? That seems like a pain, and expensive. Has anyone else combined Drake Bay and BdC and gotten from one to the other without flying and, if so, how?

Thanks!

RAC

You could also drive, but that would be subject to conditions (would not try in rainy season) and some rather challenging roads.

RKprov

Tully -- Maybe I'm just blocking out the things about Encanta I didn't like because it was my first trip to the Osa and I loved the area so much! I agree completely that it could use some updating, and the mosquito nets are definitely one area they could improve upon. Beds were just OK in general, but with four queen beds in the room we were able to get comfortable. I really did like the property in general though, and thought the location was pretty great -- my morning walk down to Pan Dulce (and especially Backwash) was my favorite part of the day. It was certainly a basic sort of accommodation, but that upper cabina did seem to be on a prime monkey route -- we generally saw at least three -- and sometimes all four -- varieties of monkey every day (we were there in Dec. 2011.)

Jane - Iguana Lodge is located out on Playa Platanares, which is fairly close to Puerto Jimenez, but not in the direction of Matapalo. (From Iguana Lodge, you have to go back to PJ before going out to the Matapalo area.) To get from Iguana Lodge to Matapalo is about an hour trip, I believe (but someone please correct me if I'm mistaken).

In answer to your other question, I think the easiest way to get from Drake Bay to PJ is to fly -- it's about a 10 min. flight and is not very expensive. If I were going to combine the two, that's definitely how I would do it (but I haven't been to Drake Bay yet).

tully

Jane there are 3 beaches. In order of coming in off the main road they are: Pan Dulce (calmest, for swimming), Backwash (often surfers & paddle boarders) and then Matapalo Beach, the one where there is usually the highest concentration of surfers. They often do the beginner surfing at Pan Dulce, as it has small waves on one end.

Re Drake, RK is correct, you can fly from DB to PJ (but not, I believe, vice-versa) for about $40 pp. A transfer would be pricey, I think last time I asked around it was $150-200.

RK you must have got to Encanta right after me. I left there on 12/01.

Jane62

ok thanks guys, this is very helpful. I emailed Finca Maresia again and this time got a reply right away. The owner there told me a taxi from Drake Bay to PJ would be about $125, but that doesn't get me to Matapalo. If we fly Drake Bay to PJ it's going to be about $160 but then also still need to get to Matapalo. But at least it would be faster I guess.

I think with your help I'm getting a handle on the beaches and the geography and how to get from one place to another now, kind of. I think it would be nice to stay at all three places if it's not too difficult, Drake Bay, Matapalo and Bosque (in that order)

So if we stayed at say Casa Bambu which says it's on Playa Pan Dulce, is it walking distance to the other two surf spots? or I was also looking at a place called Osa Clandestina that looks really nice, says 5-minute walk to the beach, I think Pan Dulce. Any other places you all recommend to consider that are on or within a short walk to these surf beaches?

And then lastly, how would we get from Matapalo to Bosque del Cabo for our last stop - I guess I should ask Bosque what they recommend!

tully

$125 is a really good rate I think. The Nature Air fare will possibly come down - last time I checked it was $38 pp for the 10 minute flight.

Casa Bambu is also down by Pan Dulce. I'm probably not the best keeper of time, I tend to dawdle, look at monkeys, etc, but I'd say it's about a 20 minute walk from Pan Dulce to Matapalo if you walk w/out stopping. The closest place to Matapalo I've seen is a place called Kapu, have only seen the outside. It is right across the road from the break. There was also a nice place before it, right at the curve of bamboo....I'll see if I can find the name.

I've also stayed at a place down there, about 3-4 minutes walk to Matapalo called Surfside Bungalows. Bungalows really nice, small pool. My main issue is sort of the opposite of yours - I don't surf, so being by the surfing spot and a goodly walk from the swimming beach was sort of a pain. I'll try to see if I can recall other places I've seen down there.

I agree with doing DB, Matapalo & BdC in that order, would be the smoothest. Bosque has always just come & picked me up when I stay in Matapalo, I just tell them a preferable time and they're there. (Usually around 10 or 11 cause I want to get there in time to get lunch and the infamous tuna melt )

RKprov

Wow - Osa Clandestina looks pretty great! I haven't heard of them before but just looked at their website and reviews, and I don't see how you could go wrong. The only thing I can't figure out it exactly where they're located -- my best guess is that they're up on the hill behind Pan Dulce, sort of where the two Casa Bambu houses are that are on the other side of the beach road. If anyone knows for sure I'd love to know.

It's great that they include all meals in their rates. When we went to the Osa this past April, we rented a huge house just south of there (in Carbonera, very close to Martina's), and while the house, owners and location were all great, we realized that we don't really like cooking for ourselves while on vacation. The vacation was still great, but having to do all the shopping for a week, bring ice out with us, etc., was a little more work than we expected (although I can make a pretty respectable gallo pinto now!) In any event, it's one more thing to consider when you're deciding on a property.

RKprov

Could I have used the word "great" a little more? Geez. Wish I could edit some of those out!

Jane62

LOL RKprov it DOES look pretty great! I know, I wish Fodors would let you edit like TA does. Yes, I'm trying to find out exactly where they are. I'm torn between so many places just on Matapalo now!

Osa Clandestina
Casa Bambu
Casa la Vida es Una Ola
Encanta La Vida

Oy vey!

I also don't like to cook on vacation so the availability of someone else cooking for me is essential. It's cool that Osa Clandestina has that included. I think most of those others have that as an option for an extra charge. But then there's the issue of someone has to shop for the food and all that.

The one thing about Casa Clandestina that isn't ideal is that it seems there are a bunch of steps to go down to the beach and back up - a few of these other places seem to be more actually on the beach.

RKprov

Aha! If you go to Google Maps (www.maps.google.com) and do a search for Osa Clandestina, you can see exactly where they are located (you can see the three cabinas very clearly). They are up the hill a bit, but are basically at the same elevation as the two Casa Bambu properties that are on the same side of the road. It wouldn't bother me to up the hill like that, and should make for good views and possibly better breezes. Just FYI, Encanta is also set back a bit from the beach. The other two Casa Bambu properties (Casa Bambu and Casa Linda) are closer to the water. Those properties get very good reviews, but if you're not up to shopping and cooking you would have to make arrangements to have them do that.

Jane62

Ah, perfect, thank you RKprov. Whatever did we do before Google? that is very helpful.

Ok, very good I think I'm leaning in that direction and I think this trip is beginning to make sense to me now!

Jane62

Colibri, if you're still reading this thread, I was interested in knowing more about the Wildlife Sanctuary tour. We did Projecto Asis in the Arenal area last time we visited CR and we all loved it. You sounded a little disappointed in this sanctuary (i.e. not that many animals). Can you say a little more about it? Is it worth doing? (anyone else who's done it, please chime in also!) I have seen a lot of good reviews about it.

If we did it, would it make sense to do it from Cabo Matapalo? It's supposedly a 35 minute ride to the airport in PJ from there but not sure where the tours leave from. Who was it that you said you used, Colibri - did your tour go right from Iguana Lodge? I"m still trying to get a handle on where everything is relative to other things so I have to do a google map with Iguana Lodge and Osa Clandestina, etc.!