Recent trip to Costa Rica
Aug 14th, 2008, 08:10 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Recent trip to Costa Rica
We just returned from our first trip to Costa Rica.
Despite many mishaps with delayed & canceled flights, lost luggage, water soaked cell phone & camera and a host of other complications, too numerous to mention, we had a wonderful time, lots of laughs and enjoyed it all.
What a beautiful country, incredible plant and animal live and lovely people. It certainly lived up to all of the enthusiasm expressed by many of you here who have been visiting CR for years.
The plans began a couple of months ago when a 'friend of a friend' offered his vacation home in Golfito.
He's a sport fisherman who spends time there during Marlin season and makes the home available to friends during off months....hence our going during the green season.
Golfito is not currently a tourist destination other than being a jump off point for Osa and surfer heaven at Pavones beach to the south.
That made little difference to us. We were going to CR and any part of the country, at any time of the year, was alright.
An old Lake Tahoe friend, now living in Savannah, would meet us there. It was her friend, whose home we'd stay in.
We couldn't go to Golftio only (who goes to Golfito?)so we planned to see one other area. After a bit of research (much of it here) and suggestions from other friends , we settled on Manuel Antonio, to not eat up our 12 day trip in lots of travel time.....or so we thought. Mother Nature had other plans.
The job of trip planner was then left to me.
As we all know, the more you read on travel sites, the more your appetite to see and do, eventually feeling that two months would be a reasonable time to stay. Next trip.
Lynn would arrive in SJ on July 31st., take Sansa to Golfito and have the papaya peeled, the cocktails poured and be waving to us from the house veranda when we stepped off the plane in Golfito the next day, following our red-eye from Las Vegas. That was the plan....
Lynn called from the Atlanta airport mid morning of July 31st. Her flight from Savannah was late getting into Atlanta, causing her to miss the connection to SJ & Golfito. She asked that I book a SJ hotel for her & move the Sansa flight to Aug. 1st, with us. I went back to the computer & phone, while rushing to finish packing for our 3 hr. drive to Las Vegas for flight that night. Sansa had space available on flight the next day, but would not transfer her ticket so I purchased another.
Bad weather in Atlanta ended up delaying Lynn's departure another 10 hrs. (with her 7 lb. dog who travels the world with her) getting into SJ at midnight.
All was smooth on our flights, until my husband's bag didn't make it to SJ. Costa Rica in Aug. without deoderent, clean underwear or hiking shoes is not recommended. We filed a report with AA and walked to Sansa where we'd meet Lynnn for flight to Golfito....that was the plan.
At check in, they said that she could not take the dog in the cabin. I was sure that their policy had stated; "dogs under 15 lbs. were welcome in the cabin." Wrong...that was Nature Air, who we had two other flights with. Nature Air didn't have an afternoon flight to Golfito from SJ....hence flying Sansa. My mistake in assuming that both airlines had same policy.
After much conversation, the decision was made that we'd keep our 2:00pm flight to Golfito and she'd hire a driver, leaving us to have the papaya peeled and the cocktails mixed, for her arrival. Sansa would not refund that flight either so Lynn now had $216 invested in transportation from SJ to Golfito and still had to hire a car for $300.
She didn't have cell service there, but I did so gave her my phone to use, if needed. A driver was called and off she headed. We waited for our flight, and waited and waited. Afternoon flights, during the green season, when thunderstorms build from the days heat, landing at tiny airstrips without instrumentation, can be iffy.
Flights from other parts of the country came and went, other passengers loaded and unloaded, we sat and sat, getting sympathetic looks from the very nice Sansa staff. Several hours later we were finally told that we could board...yeah...Golfito here we come. We'd been up 36 hrs. at this point and we're middle aged folks who consider 11:00pm a late night!
I tried not to take it personally that they had weighed us as well as my one bag, when seeing that we were the only two passengers on a 12 seater plane! Time to go on a diet.
The hour flight to Golfito was beautiful and exciting. The big thunderheads were incredible, from the up close view of a small plane at low elevation. The occasional glimpses of emerald green, when the clouds parted, were a tease of what we were about to experience. The stormy bumps and mostly zero visibility were a bit discerning, but our many similar experiences from living and flying in the Caribbean years before, reminded me to not be worried....sort of.
When our plane arrived at it's final approach point, 500 ft. above the Golfo Dulce, mountains looming in front of us, our pilots noted the complete lack of visibility and did a steep bank out of there. Back to SJ we headed, in storm clouds that were now more dramatic, tinged irridescent pink from the sunset and providing a bucking bronco ride. I knew that once we were safely back on the ground this would be a fun ride.
Walking across the Sansa tarmac and saying "we're back" I could see the polite expressions of the staff; "not them again."
6:00pm in SJ, no hotel, no cell phone, no luggage & no way to contact Lynn so that she won't worry when she arrives in Golfito later that night, to an empty house. Luis, on the Sansa desk, was wonderful. He called a hotel, a taxi & let me use their phone to call Lynn (no service where she was travelling) and the caretaker in Golfito...no answer, left a message.
From the Garden Court near the airport, we walked to a locals seafood place, cold beer, fresh fish & collapsed into bed after 40 hrs. on the road.
Back at the airport at 6:00am for flight to Drake Bay and onto Golftio. One other, cute young couple on flight to Drake Bay. We waited and waited. Departure time came and went with more sympathetic looks from Sansa staff. We were finally told that the leg from Drake Bay to Golfito was booked so we might have to wait until the 11:30 flight. We pretty much resigned ourselves to spending another day with the Sansa staff. Guess they were as eager to get rid of us as we were to be gone, because a bit later they said that management had decided to have that flight stop in Golfito first, drop us off (or push us out as we passed over the landing strip)then on to Drake Bay, back to Golfito and back to SJ. We were grateful to Sansa, apologetic to the cute young couple who's arrival in Drake Bay was two hours delayed due to us,and excited to finally be going anywhere that wasn't the Sansa airport.
Sansa may have cost Lynn $216 in non-refunded fares & $300 driver fees but they probably spent that much in fuel on us in two days.
Golfito...here we come....at last!
That brings us to the middle of day 2 in Cost Rica. More to follow.
Despite many mishaps with delayed & canceled flights, lost luggage, water soaked cell phone & camera and a host of other complications, too numerous to mention, we had a wonderful time, lots of laughs and enjoyed it all.
What a beautiful country, incredible plant and animal live and lovely people. It certainly lived up to all of the enthusiasm expressed by many of you here who have been visiting CR for years.
The plans began a couple of months ago when a 'friend of a friend' offered his vacation home in Golfito.
He's a sport fisherman who spends time there during Marlin season and makes the home available to friends during off months....hence our going during the green season.
Golfito is not currently a tourist destination other than being a jump off point for Osa and surfer heaven at Pavones beach to the south.
That made little difference to us. We were going to CR and any part of the country, at any time of the year, was alright.
An old Lake Tahoe friend, now living in Savannah, would meet us there. It was her friend, whose home we'd stay in.
We couldn't go to Golftio only (who goes to Golfito?)so we planned to see one other area. After a bit of research (much of it here) and suggestions from other friends , we settled on Manuel Antonio, to not eat up our 12 day trip in lots of travel time.....or so we thought. Mother Nature had other plans.
The job of trip planner was then left to me.
As we all know, the more you read on travel sites, the more your appetite to see and do, eventually feeling that two months would be a reasonable time to stay. Next trip.
Lynn would arrive in SJ on July 31st., take Sansa to Golfito and have the papaya peeled, the cocktails poured and be waving to us from the house veranda when we stepped off the plane in Golfito the next day, following our red-eye from Las Vegas. That was the plan....
Lynn called from the Atlanta airport mid morning of July 31st. Her flight from Savannah was late getting into Atlanta, causing her to miss the connection to SJ & Golfito. She asked that I book a SJ hotel for her & move the Sansa flight to Aug. 1st, with us. I went back to the computer & phone, while rushing to finish packing for our 3 hr. drive to Las Vegas for flight that night. Sansa had space available on flight the next day, but would not transfer her ticket so I purchased another.
Bad weather in Atlanta ended up delaying Lynn's departure another 10 hrs. (with her 7 lb. dog who travels the world with her) getting into SJ at midnight.
All was smooth on our flights, until my husband's bag didn't make it to SJ. Costa Rica in Aug. without deoderent, clean underwear or hiking shoes is not recommended. We filed a report with AA and walked to Sansa where we'd meet Lynnn for flight to Golfito....that was the plan.
At check in, they said that she could not take the dog in the cabin. I was sure that their policy had stated; "dogs under 15 lbs. were welcome in the cabin." Wrong...that was Nature Air, who we had two other flights with. Nature Air didn't have an afternoon flight to Golfito from SJ....hence flying Sansa. My mistake in assuming that both airlines had same policy.
After much conversation, the decision was made that we'd keep our 2:00pm flight to Golfito and she'd hire a driver, leaving us to have the papaya peeled and the cocktails mixed, for her arrival. Sansa would not refund that flight either so Lynn now had $216 invested in transportation from SJ to Golfito and still had to hire a car for $300.
She didn't have cell service there, but I did so gave her my phone to use, if needed. A driver was called and off she headed. We waited for our flight, and waited and waited. Afternoon flights, during the green season, when thunderstorms build from the days heat, landing at tiny airstrips without instrumentation, can be iffy.
Flights from other parts of the country came and went, other passengers loaded and unloaded, we sat and sat, getting sympathetic looks from the very nice Sansa staff. Several hours later we were finally told that we could board...yeah...Golfito here we come. We'd been up 36 hrs. at this point and we're middle aged folks who consider 11:00pm a late night!
I tried not to take it personally that they had weighed us as well as my one bag, when seeing that we were the only two passengers on a 12 seater plane! Time to go on a diet.
The hour flight to Golfito was beautiful and exciting. The big thunderheads were incredible, from the up close view of a small plane at low elevation. The occasional glimpses of emerald green, when the clouds parted, were a tease of what we were about to experience. The stormy bumps and mostly zero visibility were a bit discerning, but our many similar experiences from living and flying in the Caribbean years before, reminded me to not be worried....sort of.
When our plane arrived at it's final approach point, 500 ft. above the Golfo Dulce, mountains looming in front of us, our pilots noted the complete lack of visibility and did a steep bank out of there. Back to SJ we headed, in storm clouds that were now more dramatic, tinged irridescent pink from the sunset and providing a bucking bronco ride. I knew that once we were safely back on the ground this would be a fun ride.
Walking across the Sansa tarmac and saying "we're back" I could see the polite expressions of the staff; "not them again."
6:00pm in SJ, no hotel, no cell phone, no luggage & no way to contact Lynn so that she won't worry when she arrives in Golfito later that night, to an empty house. Luis, on the Sansa desk, was wonderful. He called a hotel, a taxi & let me use their phone to call Lynn (no service where she was travelling) and the caretaker in Golfito...no answer, left a message.
From the Garden Court near the airport, we walked to a locals seafood place, cold beer, fresh fish & collapsed into bed after 40 hrs. on the road.
Back at the airport at 6:00am for flight to Drake Bay and onto Golftio. One other, cute young couple on flight to Drake Bay. We waited and waited. Departure time came and went with more sympathetic looks from Sansa staff. We were finally told that the leg from Drake Bay to Golfito was booked so we might have to wait until the 11:30 flight. We pretty much resigned ourselves to spending another day with the Sansa staff. Guess they were as eager to get rid of us as we were to be gone, because a bit later they said that management had decided to have that flight stop in Golfito first, drop us off (or push us out as we passed over the landing strip)then on to Drake Bay, back to Golfito and back to SJ. We were grateful to Sansa, apologetic to the cute young couple who's arrival in Drake Bay was two hours delayed due to us,and excited to finally be going anywhere that wasn't the Sansa airport.
Sansa may have cost Lynn $216 in non-refunded fares & $300 driver fees but they probably spent that much in fuel on us in two days.
Golfito...here we come....at last!
That brings us to the middle of day 2 in Cost Rica. More to follow.
Aug 15th, 2008, 09:28 AM
#3
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, I hope things quickly started to look up for you! I'm sure the most frustrating part was being separated from your friend and not being able to easily contact her.
I'm also looking forward to chapter 2!
I'm also looking forward to chapter 2!
Aug 16th, 2008, 09:48 AM
#4
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Holy cow! I'm glad to hear you were able to stay in good spirits through all this! Can't wait to hear about the rest of the trip. 
If you can post all parts on this thread it's very helpful and easier to read about your entire trip rather than looking for other threads.
If you can post all parts on this thread it's very helpful and easier to read about your entire trip rather than looking for other threads.
Aug 16th, 2008, 02:37 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help....what am I doing wrong in having my 'part 2' report of Costa Rica trip, post on the Latin America site rather than Costa Rica? Was so sure that I was careful to be here. Appreciate suggestions as to where I'm going wrong.
Aug 16th, 2008, 08:46 PM
#6
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to be confusing.
What I meant is that it's nice to have the entire trip report on one thread, rather than post parts of your trip on separate threads.
That way we can read and respond to your entire trip on this one thread rather than have to go to another one to find part 2, part 3, etc.
What I meant is that it's nice to have the entire trip report on one thread, rather than post parts of your trip on separate threads.
That way we can read and respond to your entire trip on this one thread rather than have to go to another one to find part 2, part 3, etc.
Aug 17th, 2008, 06:54 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hipvirgochick,
You didn't confuse me a bit. I'd already done that to myself and I do appreciate the suggestions as I'm inexperienced in online forums. I primarily read others here, prior to our trip, with the exception of posting a few questions.
Yesterday, I wrote a long part 2 and it's nowhere to be found, either in the general Latin America or CR forums. I'm reluctant to write it again, until I understand what I did incorrectly so that another isn't lost.
We did have a wonderful Costa Rican experience, which is fun to share, as I enjoyed the trip reports of so many others here.
Thanks for the help,
Randi
You didn't confuse me a bit. I'd already done that to myself and I do appreciate the suggestions as I'm inexperienced in online forums. I primarily read others here, prior to our trip, with the exception of posting a few questions.
Yesterday, I wrote a long part 2 and it's nowhere to be found, either in the general Latin America or CR forums. I'm reluctant to write it again, until I understand what I did incorrectly so that another isn't lost.
We did have a wonderful Costa Rican experience, which is fun to share, as I enjoyed the trip reports of so many others here.
Thanks for the help,
Randi
Aug 17th, 2008, 06:57 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hipvirgochick,
Disregard my last reply as I did find the part 2 that I wrote yesterday. Just hadn't scrolled down far enough. I now understand what you mean by attaching future CR reports to this thread.
We oldsters need a 10 yr. old to improve our online skills!
Thanks again,
Randi
Disregard my last reply as I did find the part 2 that I wrote yesterday. Just hadn't scrolled down far enough. I now understand what you mean by attaching future CR reports to this thread.
We oldsters need a 10 yr. old to improve our online skills!
Thanks again,
Randi
Aug 17th, 2008, 08:04 AM
#9
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi RandiRA,
I agree with Hip; its easier to follow along with a trip report if all the parts are kept together on the same thread, but no harm done!
I just read your part 2 and enjoyed it thoroughly! Your descriptions of Golfito were so well written, it really helped me visualize the place! The house you stayed in sounds beautiful, and the caretaker and his family sound just like the wonderful, kind, warm Ticos so many of us have had the pleasure to meet in our own travels.
Sounds like you were really able to keep a good perspective on the various mishaps you encountered, and were able genuinely enjoy your vacation.
It also sounds like you've lived in some interesting places! Mexico, the Caribbean, Utah... I'm originally from Utah myself, although I now live in Florida. Just a bit of useless trivia for you!
I'm really looking forward to your next installment.
I agree with Hip; its easier to follow along with a trip report if all the parts are kept together on the same thread, but no harm done!
I just read your part 2 and enjoyed it thoroughly! Your descriptions of Golfito were so well written, it really helped me visualize the place! The house you stayed in sounds beautiful, and the caretaker and his family sound just like the wonderful, kind, warm Ticos so many of us have had the pleasure to meet in our own travels.
Sounds like you were really able to keep a good perspective on the various mishaps you encountered, and were able genuinely enjoy your vacation.
It also sounds like you've lived in some interesting places! Mexico, the Caribbean, Utah... I'm originally from Utah myself, although I now live in Florida. Just a bit of useless trivia for you!
I'm really looking forward to your next installment.
Aug 17th, 2008, 09:08 AM
#10
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I find it much easier to follow the report in separate numbered threads. When it's all packed together with the amens, LOLs, comuniques, and diversions, it is very hard to find all the parts. Either separate threads or make it possible find the actual report by starting each section with some sort of visual device, such as for part two:
2222222222222222222222222222222222
part three:
333333333333333333333333333333333
etc.
2222222222222222222222222222222222
part three:
333333333333333333333333333333333
etc.
Aug 17th, 2008, 09:10 PM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope the rest of your trip made up for that horrible beginning Randi. And I thought I was unlucky with airlines. The next time I start to b*&*^ about a delayed flight or lost luggage I'm going to remember what you went through.
I write my trip reports in Word and then paste them into the thread. But of course, I'm way overdue on my report from last month, so you probably should not listen to me. But, if you do write it in Word you will have a written account of your trip that you can read any time you want. Like Hip and Cmerrell, I find it easier to read reports when they are all on one thread.
Another hint: if you can't find one of your own posts, click on your name and your posts will be filtered from the other posts.
OK, now I'm off to find/read part two.
I write my trip reports in Word and then paste them into the thread. But of course, I'm way overdue on my report from last month, so you probably should not listen to me. But, if you do write it in Word you will have a written account of your trip that you can read any time you want. Like Hip and Cmerrell, I find it easier to read reports when they are all on one thread.
Another hint: if you can't find one of your own posts, click on your name and your posts will be filtered from the other posts.
OK, now I'm off to find/read part two.
Aug 18th, 2008, 09:04 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Recent Costa Rica trip, part 3:
Day 7 of trip, day 5 in Golfito:
Up at 5:00am, made coffee & back online to see if any updates on luggage with AA. Site said that it had arrived in SJ on Aug.2 and picked up for delivery to Golfito on Aug. 4th so I called both Sansa and Nature Air on the chance that one of them might have it. No luck, but no crisis as the items had mostly been replaced. I was just pursuing the principle of it now.
More fruit on the veranda, good-byes to Lucy as she left for school and plans made for the nest two days.
Being so close to Osa and reading so many wonderful reports here, that was one thing that I really wanted to do, (as we were so close) if even for only a day in the park. Yes, I know, 3 days should be minimum, but a quick visit seemed better than none. After checking the ferry schedule, Corcovado tours, travel time & cabinas, I came up with a scheme; late afternoon ferry from Golfito to Puerto Jimenez (the ferry is actually no more than a large, open panga with a canopy that carries about 15 people)spend the night in Puerto Jimenez, early am pickup at the collectivo for 2 hr. ride to other side of peninsula, 1 hr. walk on beach to Corcovado, 5-6 hr. tour in the park, return to PJ, spend another night there and return ferry to Golfito the following morning. Those of you who have spent time on Osa are probably saying; "Is she nuts? Way too much in too little time."
Alex had come down with a cold, so sloshing through rain & mud for 6 hrs., following a bumpy, 2 hr. ride there & another bumpy ride back, wasn't sounding like his idea of a good time. He volunteered to stay home with the dog so it would be Lynn and I. I suspect he was also becoming attached to his rocker on the veranda.
We thought we'd go to Banana Bay for lunch, walk around town & catch the 4:15 ferry. Later that morning, Chus said that the weather report was for a GRANDE storm coming in from Panama so Osa would be "tormenta" the following day. I went to the online forecast for Osa Puntarenes and sure enough: "tormenta, tormenta, tormenta." Rain is expected that time of year, particularly that far south, but a torrential storm in which the plant life is obscured and the wildlife has ducked for cover, didn't sound like a good idea after all. Osa will have to wait for another trip and more time to do it justice. Bummer!
Lynn & I consoled ourselves by going to Banana Bay for lunch anyway, with the intention of taking the 1:00pm ferry to PJ and the last one back, just to get on the water & have a change of scene. Boy did it begin to pour...those sheets of water....more like walls...and the wind blew. The large sportfishing yachts, just feet away from the marina cafe, were invisible. So much for the ferry ride to PJ. Being in the middle of the Dulce Golfo, in an open boat, didn't sound like such a smart thing to do just then. We consoled ourselves with their delicious bloody marys, made with onions, olives, pickled green beans and extra horseradish. A cute French family (probably live aboard, world sailors, as so many French are) sitting next to us,had a darling young son who entertained us with his little truck & tractor toys zooming everywhere. Boys are boys, the world over.
I have to say that was the only time in which rain interfered with any of our plans. We had great weather, starting with sunny mornings, into the afternoon & enough clouds to keep it comfortable with showers either in the late afternoon or evenings, when our day was mostly done and we were back on the veranda or in the pool. A swim in the warm rain was a treat, when there was no relampago....love that word.
We also did not see, hear or feel one mosquito the entire 12 days.
After getting home, Lynn and I walked to the airport to check with Sansa & NA for the luggage....just for laughs. Those poor guys. They almost begged me to call AA and leave them alone. I apologetically explained that the AA number was always busy or went to voicemail so they were my only 'in the flesh' contacts. As the usual Costa Rican nature, that I'd come to love and admire, they were sweet, patient & sympathetic as they could be, while probably thinking; "When is this broad leaving Golfito?" I thanked them and headed home.
That night we have more tuna sashimi , the most incredible ceviche from the remaining Dorado and, of course, Chus guacamole & homemade chips. Another gourmet meal in a paradise setting with good company.
The next day Lynn and I packed the cooler with tomato, avocado sandwiches, papaya, watermelon, chips, beer & water. Chus gathered his fishing gear and we went into town for a panga to a private island that has a few vacation homes of mostly North Americans and where a friend of his lives. The property was lovely, set back from the shore, with sprawling lawn, huge coco palms, hibiscus, haleconias, bird of paradise....all the basic landscape that we so lust after in the US. From the sea, the shoreline appeared to be dark sand, but was small rocks. Not comfortable for sunbathing, but very walkable. The guys headed off to fish and I went for a swim. The water isn't the crystal clear turquoise that had so spoiled us in the Caribbean, but still beautiful and felt wonderful. The sea was calm and no evidence of riptide so I swam out a ways. after a bit, I felt a stinging lash across both legs, that wasn't terrible, but enough to make me suspect jelly fish. I've gotten into them badly, years ago, in both Mexico and the east coast of Florida so decided it best to get out of the water. If they're profuse, the toxins can make it difficult to swim back to shore so better safe than sorry. I had slight, red lines on my legs that stung for a while only. Haven't heard anyone mention them here so not sure what it was?
One of the guys who lives in a primitive cabin, up in the mountains, offered to take Lynn and I for a guided hike. The thought of seeing wildlife was exciting so off we went. There was no path. Only he knew the way through the thick ground cover, vines and rocks. Not a good place to turn an ankle or lose your guide. We hiked up & up, on & on, listening and looking. Not a sound, not a creature, with the exception of a few paths of those very industrious ants, carrying leaves. We had managed to find the only jungle completely devoid of visible wildlife and total silence....odd.
Those ants, by the way, are all females. The queens only come in contact with a male to mate. I don't know where the males go, but the working colonies are all girls.
Ruiz led us to his very secluded & rustic cabina, high up on the hill. It was a hermit/campers dream. No electric or plumbing and no sign of a generator so am not sure how he handles refrigeration? That would be a long journey with a block of ice. The cocina was an outdoor Rancho with rustic shelves, a few plates & pots and a free standing, waist high stand, in the yard, that was filled with sand & firewood, for cooking. A long hose, that ran uphill (probably from a cistern) was attached to a pole and continually poured fresh water. Being from UT where every drop is a precious commodity, it took a bit of getting used to, to see so many running hoses in Costa Rica.
He led us back down to another part of the beach....we did see one Toucan....where we came across an abandoned shack, with a faded wood "Black Beach Bar" sign on it, that looked like something out of a Key West, Hemmingway novel....all rusted, covered in vines and probably a great snake haven. I was not going inside to explore.
When we returned Chus was still fishing & Alex was happily dozing in a camp chair, under a palm, with a cold beer. We played with the homeowners small dog, who was curious about Lynn's little guy and enjoyed the resident cat who got a big kick out of stalking Grayson around the palms, while Grayson explored. Am not sure he realized he was in danger of being cat nip! It was funny to watch.
Back in the panga for the trip home and another evening on the veranda with Lucy singing and dancing while we taught her every corny, gringo, Caribbean, "Wasting away in Margaritaville" song we could think of. She's a quick study. We did draw the line at "Junk Yard Dog." The world has heard enough of that one.
The following day was another adventure so part 4 to follow.
Day 7 of trip, day 5 in Golfito:
Up at 5:00am, made coffee & back online to see if any updates on luggage with AA. Site said that it had arrived in SJ on Aug.2 and picked up for delivery to Golfito on Aug. 4th so I called both Sansa and Nature Air on the chance that one of them might have it. No luck, but no crisis as the items had mostly been replaced. I was just pursuing the principle of it now.
More fruit on the veranda, good-byes to Lucy as she left for school and plans made for the nest two days.
Being so close to Osa and reading so many wonderful reports here, that was one thing that I really wanted to do, (as we were so close) if even for only a day in the park. Yes, I know, 3 days should be minimum, but a quick visit seemed better than none. After checking the ferry schedule, Corcovado tours, travel time & cabinas, I came up with a scheme; late afternoon ferry from Golfito to Puerto Jimenez (the ferry is actually no more than a large, open panga with a canopy that carries about 15 people)spend the night in Puerto Jimenez, early am pickup at the collectivo for 2 hr. ride to other side of peninsula, 1 hr. walk on beach to Corcovado, 5-6 hr. tour in the park, return to PJ, spend another night there and return ferry to Golfito the following morning. Those of you who have spent time on Osa are probably saying; "Is she nuts? Way too much in too little time."
Alex had come down with a cold, so sloshing through rain & mud for 6 hrs., following a bumpy, 2 hr. ride there & another bumpy ride back, wasn't sounding like his idea of a good time. He volunteered to stay home with the dog so it would be Lynn and I. I suspect he was also becoming attached to his rocker on the veranda.
We thought we'd go to Banana Bay for lunch, walk around town & catch the 4:15 ferry. Later that morning, Chus said that the weather report was for a GRANDE storm coming in from Panama so Osa would be "tormenta" the following day. I went to the online forecast for Osa Puntarenes and sure enough: "tormenta, tormenta, tormenta." Rain is expected that time of year, particularly that far south, but a torrential storm in which the plant life is obscured and the wildlife has ducked for cover, didn't sound like a good idea after all. Osa will have to wait for another trip and more time to do it justice. Bummer!
Lynn & I consoled ourselves by going to Banana Bay for lunch anyway, with the intention of taking the 1:00pm ferry to PJ and the last one back, just to get on the water & have a change of scene. Boy did it begin to pour...those sheets of water....more like walls...and the wind blew. The large sportfishing yachts, just feet away from the marina cafe, were invisible. So much for the ferry ride to PJ. Being in the middle of the Dulce Golfo, in an open boat, didn't sound like such a smart thing to do just then. We consoled ourselves with their delicious bloody marys, made with onions, olives, pickled green beans and extra horseradish. A cute French family (probably live aboard, world sailors, as so many French are) sitting next to us,had a darling young son who entertained us with his little truck & tractor toys zooming everywhere. Boys are boys, the world over.
I have to say that was the only time in which rain interfered with any of our plans. We had great weather, starting with sunny mornings, into the afternoon & enough clouds to keep it comfortable with showers either in the late afternoon or evenings, when our day was mostly done and we were back on the veranda or in the pool. A swim in the warm rain was a treat, when there was no relampago....love that word.
We also did not see, hear or feel one mosquito the entire 12 days.
After getting home, Lynn and I walked to the airport to check with Sansa & NA for the luggage....just for laughs. Those poor guys. They almost begged me to call AA and leave them alone. I apologetically explained that the AA number was always busy or went to voicemail so they were my only 'in the flesh' contacts. As the usual Costa Rican nature, that I'd come to love and admire, they were sweet, patient & sympathetic as they could be, while probably thinking; "When is this broad leaving Golfito?" I thanked them and headed home.
That night we have more tuna sashimi , the most incredible ceviche from the remaining Dorado and, of course, Chus guacamole & homemade chips. Another gourmet meal in a paradise setting with good company.
The next day Lynn and I packed the cooler with tomato, avocado sandwiches, papaya, watermelon, chips, beer & water. Chus gathered his fishing gear and we went into town for a panga to a private island that has a few vacation homes of mostly North Americans and where a friend of his lives. The property was lovely, set back from the shore, with sprawling lawn, huge coco palms, hibiscus, haleconias, bird of paradise....all the basic landscape that we so lust after in the US. From the sea, the shoreline appeared to be dark sand, but was small rocks. Not comfortable for sunbathing, but very walkable. The guys headed off to fish and I went for a swim. The water isn't the crystal clear turquoise that had so spoiled us in the Caribbean, but still beautiful and felt wonderful. The sea was calm and no evidence of riptide so I swam out a ways. after a bit, I felt a stinging lash across both legs, that wasn't terrible, but enough to make me suspect jelly fish. I've gotten into them badly, years ago, in both Mexico and the east coast of Florida so decided it best to get out of the water. If they're profuse, the toxins can make it difficult to swim back to shore so better safe than sorry. I had slight, red lines on my legs that stung for a while only. Haven't heard anyone mention them here so not sure what it was?
One of the guys who lives in a primitive cabin, up in the mountains, offered to take Lynn and I for a guided hike. The thought of seeing wildlife was exciting so off we went. There was no path. Only he knew the way through the thick ground cover, vines and rocks. Not a good place to turn an ankle or lose your guide. We hiked up & up, on & on, listening and looking. Not a sound, not a creature, with the exception of a few paths of those very industrious ants, carrying leaves. We had managed to find the only jungle completely devoid of visible wildlife and total silence....odd.
Those ants, by the way, are all females. The queens only come in contact with a male to mate. I don't know where the males go, but the working colonies are all girls.
Ruiz led us to his very secluded & rustic cabina, high up on the hill. It was a hermit/campers dream. No electric or plumbing and no sign of a generator so am not sure how he handles refrigeration? That would be a long journey with a block of ice. The cocina was an outdoor Rancho with rustic shelves, a few plates & pots and a free standing, waist high stand, in the yard, that was filled with sand & firewood, for cooking. A long hose, that ran uphill (probably from a cistern) was attached to a pole and continually poured fresh water. Being from UT where every drop is a precious commodity, it took a bit of getting used to, to see so many running hoses in Costa Rica.
He led us back down to another part of the beach....we did see one Toucan....where we came across an abandoned shack, with a faded wood "Black Beach Bar" sign on it, that looked like something out of a Key West, Hemmingway novel....all rusted, covered in vines and probably a great snake haven. I was not going inside to explore.
When we returned Chus was still fishing & Alex was happily dozing in a camp chair, under a palm, with a cold beer. We played with the homeowners small dog, who was curious about Lynn's little guy and enjoyed the resident cat who got a big kick out of stalking Grayson around the palms, while Grayson explored. Am not sure he realized he was in danger of being cat nip! It was funny to watch.
Back in the panga for the trip home and another evening on the veranda with Lucy singing and dancing while we taught her every corny, gringo, Caribbean, "Wasting away in Margaritaville" song we could think of. She's a quick study. We did draw the line at "Junk Yard Dog." The world has heard enough of that one.
The following day was another adventure so part 4 to follow.
Aug 18th, 2008, 10:07 AM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi cmerrell,
We've lived in Cedar City for the past 3 years and love it.
What area of UT are you from? The north is beautiful also. We enjoy visiting SLC, Sundance & the Wasatch.
We moved my very young, adventuresome, 85 yr. old mother here. She gets a ski pass at Brian Head every year and also snow shoes many winter days. She'll be spending a week on a houseboat, on Powell with us, next month.
We had lived in the Memphis & northern MS area where we retired from the gaming business in Tunica, MS. It has been casino work that has taken us to wonderful places to live such as Tahoe, Bahamas, St. Maarten, Florida and Memphis/MS.
Forty years ago, when I first experienced Arches Nat. Park, Monument Valley, Zion and Lake Powell, traveling with my gypsy mother, I was astounded at the unique beauty here and knew that I had to return. I never imagined that I'd be so fortunate as have them in my backyard.
When quite young, before moving to Mexico, my mother, brother and I lived in Lake Placid (central FL) which was the land of citrus orchards and lakes. It was a good life.
When Alex worked at Paradise Island (now Atlantis) our son & I lived in Coral Springs. We all commuted.
Thanks for your interest and am glad you're enjoying wading through my long CR reports. I'm guilty of writing volumes so am trying to limit them to tolerable installments.
Good thing we didn't stay a month!
Randi
We've lived in Cedar City for the past 3 years and love it.
What area of UT are you from? The north is beautiful also. We enjoy visiting SLC, Sundance & the Wasatch.
We moved my very young, adventuresome, 85 yr. old mother here. She gets a ski pass at Brian Head every year and also snow shoes many winter days. She'll be spending a week on a houseboat, on Powell with us, next month.
We had lived in the Memphis & northern MS area where we retired from the gaming business in Tunica, MS. It has been casino work that has taken us to wonderful places to live such as Tahoe, Bahamas, St. Maarten, Florida and Memphis/MS.
Forty years ago, when I first experienced Arches Nat. Park, Monument Valley, Zion and Lake Powell, traveling with my gypsy mother, I was astounded at the unique beauty here and knew that I had to return. I never imagined that I'd be so fortunate as have them in my backyard.
When quite young, before moving to Mexico, my mother, brother and I lived in Lake Placid (central FL) which was the land of citrus orchards and lakes. It was a good life.
When Alex worked at Paradise Island (now Atlantis) our son & I lived in Coral Springs. We all commuted.
Thanks for your interest and am glad you're enjoying wading through my long CR reports. I'm guilty of writing volumes so am trying to limit them to tolerable installments.
Good thing we didn't stay a month!
Randi
Aug 22nd, 2008, 11:39 AM
#14
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Randi,
I just finally had the opportunity to enjoy your 3rd trip installment. We've been dealing with Tropical Storm Fay here in Central Florida this week and internet connection has been a bit spotty. I happen to live in an area that was hit pretty hard. Luckily no one I know had any physical mishaps or property damage, but boy did it rain! Many of our roads turned into small rivers and one of my co-workers actually had a catfish swimming in the street in front of his house! Crazy!
It is indeed a bummer that you weren't able to get over to the Osa Peninsula. It's a truly magical place! A return visit is definitely in order. I'm glad you were able to come up with alternative daytrip options; jellyfish notwithstanding. ;-)
I grew up in Bountiful and still have lots of family strewn along the Wasatch Front. I haven't been to Cedar City in years. I'm sure it's grown like crazy since I was last there. I keep meaning to get out there for the Shakespearean Festival one of these years... Southern Utah is such a fascinating place. I absolutely love the terrain down there. I just visited Arches and Capitol Reef this past April on a visit home. Beautiful!
Not to digress too much from your wonderful trip report, but it's always nice to stumble across someone else from the "homeland"!
Looking forward to reading more about your Costa Rica adventures.
I just finally had the opportunity to enjoy your 3rd trip installment. We've been dealing with Tropical Storm Fay here in Central Florida this week and internet connection has been a bit spotty. I happen to live in an area that was hit pretty hard. Luckily no one I know had any physical mishaps or property damage, but boy did it rain! Many of our roads turned into small rivers and one of my co-workers actually had a catfish swimming in the street in front of his house! Crazy!
It is indeed a bummer that you weren't able to get over to the Osa Peninsula. It's a truly magical place! A return visit is definitely in order. I'm glad you were able to come up with alternative daytrip options; jellyfish notwithstanding. ;-)
I grew up in Bountiful and still have lots of family strewn along the Wasatch Front. I haven't been to Cedar City in years. I'm sure it's grown like crazy since I was last there. I keep meaning to get out there for the Shakespearean Festival one of these years... Southern Utah is such a fascinating place. I absolutely love the terrain down there. I just visited Arches and Capitol Reef this past April on a visit home. Beautiful!
Not to digress too much from your wonderful trip report, but it's always nice to stumble across someone else from the "homeland"!
Looking forward to reading more about your Costa Rica adventures.
Aug 22nd, 2008, 05:54 PM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What a wonderful trip report RandiRA. I can tell you are re-living the moments as you're writing them. The Costan Rican people truly are just amazing, aren't they? Even non-Costa Ricans seem to have that Pura Vida attitude when in Costa Rica. I hope they did eventually find your luggage.
Too bad you missed the Osa. It sounds like you really wanted to go. But, given the weather and your limited time, it's probably good you missed it. Now you have a reason to go back to CR.
Too bad you missed the Osa. It sounds like you really wanted to go. But, given the weather and your limited time, it's probably good you missed it. Now you have a reason to go back to CR.
Aug 26th, 2008, 12:25 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Costa Rica Trip, part 4:
My good intentions of getting this posted sooner got swallowed up in preparations for an upcoming week on a houseboat on Lake Powell. Like camping, the lists & packing seem to go on forever for a trip like that.
So where was I?
Still in Golfito, but leaving for Manuel Antonio on Fri. so the next day, I decide that a trip to an ATM is needed for extra cash.
The 3 of us, being retired casino people, who made much of our living from tips, are careful about taking good care of anyone who provides services for us. Jesus and Mariella would be at the top of our list, before departing Golfito.
I had a grocery list for Peasons so decided to walk to the Banco Nacional first, on the way into town.
It's interesting to see the older, large, now rundown homes, that were once part of the United Fruit (Chiquita Banana) community. Their lovely Caribbean elegance is still evident, under the mold, mildew, rust and overrun vegetation that happens so quickly in the tropics when unattended. As the owner of our home told me; when he bought Algo Mas, six years earlier, she was a beautiful woman with a very dirty face. He brought her back to her youthful beauty, and then some.
There's a large, open, empty warehouse, on the water, across from the hospital that has many, huge washers and dryers working at the back. It was probably part of the banana shipping operation at one time and now serves as laundry for the hospital with enough vacant floor space for a roller rink. I also passed an old steam locomotive, sitting alone, on a piece of abandoned track. It probably should be in a museum.
All the folks sitting around visiting and strolling were a bit shy, but very friendly when I spoke with them. As there isn't the large tourist trade in Golfito, it's much less razzle-dazzle in the PR department, but everyone was receptive & sweet when spoken to.
It occurred to me that walking around with a bunch of cash, that I'd just withdrawn in a very public place, might not be terribly smart (wouldn't do that in the US either) so went to Pearson's first and then the bank.
Now I had two bags of groceries and backpack, when I approached the double glass door, single person, security booth at the bank, with armed security on the other side. He signals that the bags all must be left in the exterior entrance lockers, before entering, so I crammed it all in (apologizing to the avocados and tomatoes) did the buzzer entry into the glass booth, where I'm scrutinized and allowed into the main lobby.
We tourists almost always experience reverse discrimination when traveling in foreign countries as we're rarely subjected to the intense scrutiny that local residents are. We're considered pretty harmless, but then a middle aged, female gringo with grocery bags & flip flops doesn't exactly resemble 007!
Finally in the bank, I asked the guard where the ATM was and he pointed back out, where I'd just come from. I'd walked right by it...dummy. Back through the glass booth, retrieve the bags, stand in line at the ATM and discover that I hadn't brought my card.....as in it's sill in my purse, on the dresser, in the US....double dummy. Oh well, there's always the cash advance option, but the line in the bank lobby was huge so decided to forgo that whole process, take the groceries home and head to the free zone in hopes that the small bank there would be less busy.
Chus (Jesus) insisted on going with me, for the company, which I enjoyed. There was a light sprinkle so he asked if I needed a taxi (always thoughtful) and I explained that after my earlier hike in the sun & humidity, with bags, I needed a shower. The rain felt good. It gave us a chance to chat about his family, his dreams for Lucy, desire to retire to their property in the mountains, etc.
We returned home with a king's ransom in colones. That conversion sure makes one feel flush.
That night Lynn and I made dinner with Lucy & Dillon (2 yr. old visiting Grandson of Chus) underfoot, yelling and screaming, having a big time as little ones do. We realized that we were ready for our 3 nights of middle aged, adult quiet time in MA.
Very early the next morning, Lucy accompanied us to the airport with her dad (teacher conference day so no school) loudly singing "Cuando caliente el sol aqui en la playa" as we walked. Her parents might not be so pleased that I taught her that one, if they have to now hear it daily.
They waited until we took off, with hugs all around and waves from the plane...the resident potcake chasing us down the runway.
A quick landing first in Drake Bay (don't you love it when your pilot says "We'll be here for 5 minutes" and they mean it?)that gave us an opportunity to view some of Osa's beauty, from the sky. Then on to Quepos & shuttle to Mango Moon.
I had chosen that hotel, as a result of recommendations in this forum, for the ocean view, a/c, hot water & small, boutique size with good service....oh, and they accept dogs. Not only accept them, but have two giants of their own who are instant buddies, along with two cats that hung out with us one evening on our veranda.
We shared an ocean view veranda with Lynn, that offered chairs, table, hammock and a big fat iguana who hung out on a tree branch, right in front of us, barely moving for three days. Not sure if he was watching us or we were watching him?
The rooms were nice, not fancy, but very comfortable & good beds.What we loved the most about Mango Moon was the one big room, quaint downstairs with bar, restaurant, lounge all open to each other, the ocean in the distance, trees, monkeys, pool below, lots of tile, wood , artwork and fresh flowers everywhere; large floor vases of haleconia and bird of paradise, with small vases on each table.
We arrived early, at 9:00am, but one room was ready so were able to deposit luggage and were invited to enjoy their breakfast buffet of pinto gallo, fruit, tortilla w/ sausage, avocado, tomato, hearts of palm, soft cheese, several varieties of thick sliced, wonderful bread, juice and coffee....all with tht pretty view.
Lynn was scheduled for zip lines that afternoon so she took a nap, while Alex and I went for a walk.
I was in search of another bank as discovered that my 10,000 colone bills couldn't be easily cashed by most places, despite being worth less than $20 US. Up the hill we went, across the hill, down a hill....lots of hills in MA so good for the legs and heart. I had caught Alex's cold, a couple of days before, and this was my most puny day so it felt good to get back to the hotel and plop down on the veranda with reading stuff.
I convinced Lynn that the chances were pretty good that the Titi Canopy folks wouldn't let her zip, with Grayson strapped to her chest (although he wouldn't care as long as he was with his Momma) so she left him with us for the afternoon, while she headed out to swing from the trees.
We walked up to Avion for late lunch. I wouldn't recommend taking your dog to Costa Rica on vacation (not that most people would) as the roads are very narrow, few shoulders or sidewalks and lots of traffic so if you do take your dog, be sure that it's small enough to carry as it could quickly become road kill. Without plastering yourself against a wall, when a car screeches by , a hair's breadth away, you too, could become road kill.
The waitress at Avion wasn't sure if they allowed dogs, but fortunately, another couple was seated with their Yorkie underfoot. We were placed next to them, in what became the official 'dog section' and a good chat, over lunch, view and perfect breeze, ensued.
I had the seafood soup, which I loved and a glass of wine, which I didn't care for, but none of the wine tasted good to me on that vacation...even stuff I was familiar with. Just didn't seem to suit my tropical taste buds. The beer and vodka tonics (with those fabulous limes) hit the spot. Alex had a margarita, which he rarely drinks, (a one beer a week guy) and it was really good. Not too sweet, not too tart...as so many tend to be. He had a fish sandwich that he really enjoyed & those wonderful Costa Rican fries.
We chatted with the couple next to us who were there looking at vacation property to replace their Maui condo, where it's become so crowded.
They live in Moss Landing, right down the road from my in-laws in Santa Cruz, CA. It's such a small world that I wonder how the witness protection program could ever work?
They were American, middle aged, hippy types with him still playing bass in a band, her in a Hawaiian sarong and long ponytail, growing organic produce on their CA property. Fun to visit with.. there in the dog section, overlooking that gorgeous landscape and sea.
We stopped at a tiny art gallery/shop, that's part of the Maripossa property. I'm crazy about the CR hardwoods so got some trivets and wooden jewelry for my Mom....then back to the Mango Moon.
Lynn loved the ziplines. She'd chosen Titi over the other as I'd read that it's a bit tamer, which seemed more suitable for her recent back surgery....not that her surgeon would have recommended either.
After showering off the days heat, we went downstairs for the cocktail hour, sunset & dinner. The white tablecloths, fresh flowers and candles were so pretty. Live music was scheduled...undoubtedly more Jimmy Buffet.
My cold was catching up with me and we had an early tour the next day so I passed on the cocktail & dinner and decided to put my stuffy head & aching body to bed extra early.
The timing turned out to be perfect as I'd forgotten it was the night of the Olympic opening ceremonies. When I crawled into bed at 6:30 it was just beginning....hurray...I love the Olympics and was determined to override the nighttime cold medicine, I'd just taken, to stay awake & watch them.
Alex came back up at 9:00 and said they'd had a good dinner, danced to the 2 man, live band, and had lots of laughs, as only great friends of 36 yrs. and many memories, can do.
Sat. morning an early breakfast (very good all days) and the van picked us up at 7:30 for Rainmaker Private Reserve. I really wanted to do a rain forest w/ hanging bridges. It was a 40 min. ride, with Liz from Ireland and picking up two young college girls from Germany, who were in CR for 5 wks. taking Spanish classes...or so they told their parents. We got to do the "Oh my God" bridge on the way. Am sure the locals look forward to the new one, next to it, getting completed.
After turning off the pavement and onto the dirt road to the reserve, we passed acres and acres of African date palms that have replaced most of the banana crop in CR. They're used for palm oil. We'd seen miles of them, from the air. Up close, you can see how densely they're planted and thick the undergrowth is. Looks like snake heaven to me. I can't imagine how difficult and labor intensive, the harvesting has to be? And it's still being done with machete and oxen drawn carts that we passed.
The Rainmaker Reserve is 1500 acres of private property that was purchased by a Costa Rican family, for conservation, when they saw the tremendous development happening in MA, years ago. They feared the entire area would become restaurants and condos so wanted to preserve what they could. It's nice to learn that even private owners are restricted from cutting the rare hardwoods on their property.
A guide is mandatory as it's fairly steep, damp footing, up and down, tall narrow bridges and critters. Not the winged, colorful kind of the lower elevations, but the stealthy, camouflaged, curled up,venomous kind.
My husband had just watched a National Geographic special about the deadly Fleur-de-lance, before our trip. When our guide explained that the rain forest is home to that, the eyelash viper and several other deadly ones, which is why it's so important to stay on the trail, not touch the vegetation and follow his lead, my husband said; "Oh great Randi, you've signed us up for the SNAKE TOUR!" Sorry, I thought it was the hanging bridge tour....which it also was, wonderful and we loved it. Lynn carried Grayson the entire time, as the guide strongly suggested.
Our guide was super knowledgeable, informative and fun.
At the end, we were rewarded with a delicious lunch of arroz con pollow, another simply herbed rice dish, black beans, chayote, cabbage salad, jugo de limon and jugo de star fruit, both of which were really refreshing and not overly sweet. It was all prepared and served under an outdoor Rancho with family style picnic tables. A good time was had by all.
Back to the hotel for shower, cocktail on the veranda, checking in with our iguana (lazy slouch hadn't moved all day)and downstairs for wonderful dinner of lobster.
The owner's dogs, Quina & Solo, (owners were out of the country so they were being cared for by an artist friend, painting murals for them) had our number as dog lovers. They strolled up to our table with those big soppy "when have you fed me lately" eyes. I scolded Lynn for feeding them from the table as not all guests appreciate an 85 lb. dog, flopping their jaw on their dinner table. We were encouraging them to be bad kids. The artist/dog sitter didn't seem to appreciate it either, but too polite to say anything.
Back to bed, Olympics on the TV and early pick up for MA Park tour.
I'll stop here and give your eyes a rest. Part 5 later.
Randi
My good intentions of getting this posted sooner got swallowed up in preparations for an upcoming week on a houseboat on Lake Powell. Like camping, the lists & packing seem to go on forever for a trip like that.
So where was I?
Still in Golfito, but leaving for Manuel Antonio on Fri. so the next day, I decide that a trip to an ATM is needed for extra cash.
The 3 of us, being retired casino people, who made much of our living from tips, are careful about taking good care of anyone who provides services for us. Jesus and Mariella would be at the top of our list, before departing Golfito.
I had a grocery list for Peasons so decided to walk to the Banco Nacional first, on the way into town.
It's interesting to see the older, large, now rundown homes, that were once part of the United Fruit (Chiquita Banana) community. Their lovely Caribbean elegance is still evident, under the mold, mildew, rust and overrun vegetation that happens so quickly in the tropics when unattended. As the owner of our home told me; when he bought Algo Mas, six years earlier, she was a beautiful woman with a very dirty face. He brought her back to her youthful beauty, and then some.
There's a large, open, empty warehouse, on the water, across from the hospital that has many, huge washers and dryers working at the back. It was probably part of the banana shipping operation at one time and now serves as laundry for the hospital with enough vacant floor space for a roller rink. I also passed an old steam locomotive, sitting alone, on a piece of abandoned track. It probably should be in a museum.
All the folks sitting around visiting and strolling were a bit shy, but very friendly when I spoke with them. As there isn't the large tourist trade in Golfito, it's much less razzle-dazzle in the PR department, but everyone was receptive & sweet when spoken to.
It occurred to me that walking around with a bunch of cash, that I'd just withdrawn in a very public place, might not be terribly smart (wouldn't do that in the US either) so went to Pearson's first and then the bank.
Now I had two bags of groceries and backpack, when I approached the double glass door, single person, security booth at the bank, with armed security on the other side. He signals that the bags all must be left in the exterior entrance lockers, before entering, so I crammed it all in (apologizing to the avocados and tomatoes) did the buzzer entry into the glass booth, where I'm scrutinized and allowed into the main lobby.
We tourists almost always experience reverse discrimination when traveling in foreign countries as we're rarely subjected to the intense scrutiny that local residents are. We're considered pretty harmless, but then a middle aged, female gringo with grocery bags & flip flops doesn't exactly resemble 007!
Finally in the bank, I asked the guard where the ATM was and he pointed back out, where I'd just come from. I'd walked right by it...dummy. Back through the glass booth, retrieve the bags, stand in line at the ATM and discover that I hadn't brought my card.....as in it's sill in my purse, on the dresser, in the US....double dummy. Oh well, there's always the cash advance option, but the line in the bank lobby was huge so decided to forgo that whole process, take the groceries home and head to the free zone in hopes that the small bank there would be less busy.
Chus (Jesus) insisted on going with me, for the company, which I enjoyed. There was a light sprinkle so he asked if I needed a taxi (always thoughtful) and I explained that after my earlier hike in the sun & humidity, with bags, I needed a shower. The rain felt good. It gave us a chance to chat about his family, his dreams for Lucy, desire to retire to their property in the mountains, etc.
We returned home with a king's ransom in colones. That conversion sure makes one feel flush.
That night Lynn and I made dinner with Lucy & Dillon (2 yr. old visiting Grandson of Chus) underfoot, yelling and screaming, having a big time as little ones do. We realized that we were ready for our 3 nights of middle aged, adult quiet time in MA.
Very early the next morning, Lucy accompanied us to the airport with her dad (teacher conference day so no school) loudly singing "Cuando caliente el sol aqui en la playa" as we walked. Her parents might not be so pleased that I taught her that one, if they have to now hear it daily.
They waited until we took off, with hugs all around and waves from the plane...the resident potcake chasing us down the runway.
A quick landing first in Drake Bay (don't you love it when your pilot says "We'll be here for 5 minutes" and they mean it?)that gave us an opportunity to view some of Osa's beauty, from the sky. Then on to Quepos & shuttle to Mango Moon.
I had chosen that hotel, as a result of recommendations in this forum, for the ocean view, a/c, hot water & small, boutique size with good service....oh, and they accept dogs. Not only accept them, but have two giants of their own who are instant buddies, along with two cats that hung out with us one evening on our veranda.
We shared an ocean view veranda with Lynn, that offered chairs, table, hammock and a big fat iguana who hung out on a tree branch, right in front of us, barely moving for three days. Not sure if he was watching us or we were watching him?
The rooms were nice, not fancy, but very comfortable & good beds.What we loved the most about Mango Moon was the one big room, quaint downstairs with bar, restaurant, lounge all open to each other, the ocean in the distance, trees, monkeys, pool below, lots of tile, wood , artwork and fresh flowers everywhere; large floor vases of haleconia and bird of paradise, with small vases on each table.
We arrived early, at 9:00am, but one room was ready so were able to deposit luggage and were invited to enjoy their breakfast buffet of pinto gallo, fruit, tortilla w/ sausage, avocado, tomato, hearts of palm, soft cheese, several varieties of thick sliced, wonderful bread, juice and coffee....all with tht pretty view.
Lynn was scheduled for zip lines that afternoon so she took a nap, while Alex and I went for a walk.
I was in search of another bank as discovered that my 10,000 colone bills couldn't be easily cashed by most places, despite being worth less than $20 US. Up the hill we went, across the hill, down a hill....lots of hills in MA so good for the legs and heart. I had caught Alex's cold, a couple of days before, and this was my most puny day so it felt good to get back to the hotel and plop down on the veranda with reading stuff.
I convinced Lynn that the chances were pretty good that the Titi Canopy folks wouldn't let her zip, with Grayson strapped to her chest (although he wouldn't care as long as he was with his Momma) so she left him with us for the afternoon, while she headed out to swing from the trees.
We walked up to Avion for late lunch. I wouldn't recommend taking your dog to Costa Rica on vacation (not that most people would) as the roads are very narrow, few shoulders or sidewalks and lots of traffic so if you do take your dog, be sure that it's small enough to carry as it could quickly become road kill. Without plastering yourself against a wall, when a car screeches by , a hair's breadth away, you too, could become road kill.
The waitress at Avion wasn't sure if they allowed dogs, but fortunately, another couple was seated with their Yorkie underfoot. We were placed next to them, in what became the official 'dog section' and a good chat, over lunch, view and perfect breeze, ensued.
I had the seafood soup, which I loved and a glass of wine, which I didn't care for, but none of the wine tasted good to me on that vacation...even stuff I was familiar with. Just didn't seem to suit my tropical taste buds. The beer and vodka tonics (with those fabulous limes) hit the spot. Alex had a margarita, which he rarely drinks, (a one beer a week guy) and it was really good. Not too sweet, not too tart...as so many tend to be. He had a fish sandwich that he really enjoyed & those wonderful Costa Rican fries.
We chatted with the couple next to us who were there looking at vacation property to replace their Maui condo, where it's become so crowded.
They live in Moss Landing, right down the road from my in-laws in Santa Cruz, CA. It's such a small world that I wonder how the witness protection program could ever work?
They were American, middle aged, hippy types with him still playing bass in a band, her in a Hawaiian sarong and long ponytail, growing organic produce on their CA property. Fun to visit with.. there in the dog section, overlooking that gorgeous landscape and sea.
We stopped at a tiny art gallery/shop, that's part of the Maripossa property. I'm crazy about the CR hardwoods so got some trivets and wooden jewelry for my Mom....then back to the Mango Moon.
Lynn loved the ziplines. She'd chosen Titi over the other as I'd read that it's a bit tamer, which seemed more suitable for her recent back surgery....not that her surgeon would have recommended either.
After showering off the days heat, we went downstairs for the cocktail hour, sunset & dinner. The white tablecloths, fresh flowers and candles were so pretty. Live music was scheduled...undoubtedly more Jimmy Buffet.
My cold was catching up with me and we had an early tour the next day so I passed on the cocktail & dinner and decided to put my stuffy head & aching body to bed extra early.
The timing turned out to be perfect as I'd forgotten it was the night of the Olympic opening ceremonies. When I crawled into bed at 6:30 it was just beginning....hurray...I love the Olympics and was determined to override the nighttime cold medicine, I'd just taken, to stay awake & watch them.
Alex came back up at 9:00 and said they'd had a good dinner, danced to the 2 man, live band, and had lots of laughs, as only great friends of 36 yrs. and many memories, can do.
Sat. morning an early breakfast (very good all days) and the van picked us up at 7:30 for Rainmaker Private Reserve. I really wanted to do a rain forest w/ hanging bridges. It was a 40 min. ride, with Liz from Ireland and picking up two young college girls from Germany, who were in CR for 5 wks. taking Spanish classes...or so they told their parents. We got to do the "Oh my God" bridge on the way. Am sure the locals look forward to the new one, next to it, getting completed.
After turning off the pavement and onto the dirt road to the reserve, we passed acres and acres of African date palms that have replaced most of the banana crop in CR. They're used for palm oil. We'd seen miles of them, from the air. Up close, you can see how densely they're planted and thick the undergrowth is. Looks like snake heaven to me. I can't imagine how difficult and labor intensive, the harvesting has to be? And it's still being done with machete and oxen drawn carts that we passed.
The Rainmaker Reserve is 1500 acres of private property that was purchased by a Costa Rican family, for conservation, when they saw the tremendous development happening in MA, years ago. They feared the entire area would become restaurants and condos so wanted to preserve what they could. It's nice to learn that even private owners are restricted from cutting the rare hardwoods on their property.
A guide is mandatory as it's fairly steep, damp footing, up and down, tall narrow bridges and critters. Not the winged, colorful kind of the lower elevations, but the stealthy, camouflaged, curled up,venomous kind.
My husband had just watched a National Geographic special about the deadly Fleur-de-lance, before our trip. When our guide explained that the rain forest is home to that, the eyelash viper and several other deadly ones, which is why it's so important to stay on the trail, not touch the vegetation and follow his lead, my husband said; "Oh great Randi, you've signed us up for the SNAKE TOUR!" Sorry, I thought it was the hanging bridge tour....which it also was, wonderful and we loved it. Lynn carried Grayson the entire time, as the guide strongly suggested.
Our guide was super knowledgeable, informative and fun.
At the end, we were rewarded with a delicious lunch of arroz con pollow, another simply herbed rice dish, black beans, chayote, cabbage salad, jugo de limon and jugo de star fruit, both of which were really refreshing and not overly sweet. It was all prepared and served under an outdoor Rancho with family style picnic tables. A good time was had by all.
Back to the hotel for shower, cocktail on the veranda, checking in with our iguana (lazy slouch hadn't moved all day)and downstairs for wonderful dinner of lobster.
The owner's dogs, Quina & Solo, (owners were out of the country so they were being cared for by an artist friend, painting murals for them) had our number as dog lovers. They strolled up to our table with those big soppy "when have you fed me lately" eyes. I scolded Lynn for feeding them from the table as not all guests appreciate an 85 lb. dog, flopping their jaw on their dinner table. We were encouraging them to be bad kids. The artist/dog sitter didn't seem to appreciate it either, but too polite to say anything.
Back to bed, Olympics on the TV and early pick up for MA Park tour.
I'll stop here and give your eyes a rest. Part 5 later.
Randi
Aug 26th, 2008, 02:00 PM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi cemerrell,
Am sorry to hear that you got a drenching from Faye, but glad that you're OK. It's so much work to prepare for those storms and clean up after them, to say nothing of the worry and danger.
Moving to UT, we miss much of the south, but not the hurricanes and tornadoes.
We're excited about an upcoming houseboat week out of Halls Crossing, where we have shared ownership. UT is one of those states that has magnificent landscape from north to south, Lake Powell being about my favorite.
I love that little, fruit orchard campground in Fruita, near Capitol Reef and the drive between Torrey and Hanksville, to say nothing of the Burr Trail from Boulder to Bullfrog....but guess this conversation is for another forum.
So many beautiful parks and so little time. No such thing as too many visits as the landscape, light and seasons makes them new each time.
Cedar City is now 28,000, but still a small town with wonderful theater and festivals.
They've just suffered a terrible tragedy when 10 locals (9 from one medical group flying back from service in Moab) were killed in a small plane crash Friday. My neighbors grew up with most of them ,attend the same church and share the same community activities so a difficult time for Cedar.
Hope you're drying out down south and will have a quiet remainder of the hurricane season.
Osa is our primary destination for the next CR trip.
bye,
Randi
Am sorry to hear that you got a drenching from Faye, but glad that you're OK. It's so much work to prepare for those storms and clean up after them, to say nothing of the worry and danger.
Moving to UT, we miss much of the south, but not the hurricanes and tornadoes.
We're excited about an upcoming houseboat week out of Halls Crossing, where we have shared ownership. UT is one of those states that has magnificent landscape from north to south, Lake Powell being about my favorite.
I love that little, fruit orchard campground in Fruita, near Capitol Reef and the drive between Torrey and Hanksville, to say nothing of the Burr Trail from Boulder to Bullfrog....but guess this conversation is for another forum.
So many beautiful parks and so little time. No such thing as too many visits as the landscape, light and seasons makes them new each time.
Cedar City is now 28,000, but still a small town with wonderful theater and festivals.
They've just suffered a terrible tragedy when 10 locals (9 from one medical group flying back from service in Moab) were killed in a small plane crash Friday. My neighbors grew up with most of them ,attend the same church and share the same community activities so a difficult time for Cedar.
Hope you're drying out down south and will have a quiet remainder of the hurricane season.
Osa is our primary destination for the next CR trip.
bye,
Randi
Aug 26th, 2008, 03:13 PM
#20
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! Is so great you were so good-humoured about the start of your trip, I'm sure there are some that would not taken it in such stride! Sounds like you & the Osa are a good match. Like your descriptions of wandering about Golfito, I like the same in Puerto Jimenez, such a sleepy quiet place.
Wanted to do Rainmaker years ago and never did, maybe one day. But - sounds like after all the build up you didn't see any snakes?! I love seeing snakes - from a distance and fair warning
Wanted to do Rainmaker years ago and never did, maybe one day. But - sounds like after all the build up you didn't see any snakes?! I love seeing snakes - from a distance and fair warning
