We just returned from a three week trip to Peru. We saw a lot in 3 weeks, but had no time to rest or relax. When planning your trip, keep in mind that the distances are long and the travel times even longer. After arriving in Puerto Maldonado around mid-day, we spent 8 hours going to and 8 hours coming back from the Heath River Lodge (actually in Bolivia) and only stayed two nights. We stopped on the way back at Sandoval Lake Lodge for another 2 nights. Both places are great and we saw lots of birds, but since we arrived at 1000 PM on day 1 and left at 0800 AM on day 3 (from Heath), we didn't really have much time there. By the way, the brochures claim it will only take 5 hours to get to Heath - don't believe them.
After the jungle, we went to Cusco, spent three nights so we could acclimatize for our Inca Trail trek (another message for the Inca Trail!). Again, we had to spend most of a day getting from the jungle to Cusco and arrived late in the afternoon. We loved Cusco and wished we had planned to stay longer. The Hostal Corihuasi is great - they really took good care of us. Located up a steep hill not far from the plaza. They booked us on a tour of the Sacred Valley. There is a lot to see in one full day of touring.
After we finished the Inca Trail (see message to follow), we took the 8 hour tourist bus to Puno. It is very comfortable and makes several stops for sightseeing, pictures, lunch, etc. It gets into Puno around 5:00 PM. We used Inca Express and booked it ahead with Enjoy Peru. I used Enjoy Peru to book all domestic flights, some hotels, the bus from Cusco to Puno. I did it all by e-mail and their rep met our flight in Lima and gave us all the tickets and vouchers. I highly recommend them. The agent I used was Marcela ([email protected]).

The trip on Lake Titicaca was arranged the night I arrived in Puno. It was very nice, but long. We left at 7:00 AM and got back to our hotel - Hostal Pukara - at around 6:00. The next day we went to Arequipa by bus. We booked our ticket with Ormenos (used a travel agent in Cusco)because it is supposed to be the best company. Wrong! Our bus was very late and when it arrived from Cuscos it was broken. So, we had to transfer to another bus, not First Class, and it took much longer to get to Arequipa because ti stopped. No food or drink. The locals we talked to said Ormenos always has these problems and they just rely on their good reputation. Don't use them!
In Arequipa we stayed at the Casa De Melgar for one night then left for a two day trip to the Colca Canyon. The Canyon is very impressive and dramatic, but it is another LONG trip. In some ways, we wished we had just spent the extra time in Arequipa which is lovely.
Finally, to LIma for one last night - at the Hotel San Antonia Abad, It is very reasonable and in a safe neighborhood. They will pick you up at the airport. Our last night's dinner was at the Rosa Nautica - fantastic. Sopme on this board say it is expensive and by Peruvian standards it is, but it is really a bargain for what you get. Make sure you have a reservation for a table by the window.
We enjoyed peru, but came home exhausted - maybe tried to cram in too much in too short a time. We made all of our arrangements on our own by e-mail or when we were in Peru. I know we saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves. E-mail me if you have any questions

Welcome back Pegsimba! We're heading to Heath and Sandoval in mid-November and I'm curious to know more about the accommodations. Was there anything you wished you'd packed that you didn't? What about dining? How was the wildlife viewing? We'll be in Heath for three nights and Sandoval for one, which had me worried that we would miss a lot at Sandoval, but maybe it will turn out better.

Was there much to do in Puno? After the jungle we're heading to Cuzco to take the train up to MP (not enough time to walk it!), then the train to Puno and Titicaca. We considered the bus but were afraid it wouldn't be comfortable - next time I'll know better.

Thanks,
Heather

Hi Heather!

The accomodations are fine at both lodges. There is no electricity at Heath, but there are candles in the room. Also no hot water, but you don't need it. You will definitely need flashlights, better yet, headlamps. We used them in the room and on night walks in the jungle. You will also need bugspray with Deet - and long-sleeved shirts and long pants. It is HOT! But it does cool down some at night. "Dining" at Heath is OK - simple food and not tons of it which suited us fine. Take along some snacks (although they do not want you to have any food in the bungalows). We did not see much wildlife other than birds - had hoped to see more. The clay lick is fun with lots of parrots and maccaws. We didn't see a single monkey at Heath.
Sandoval lake is beautiful and the lake area is full of birds, monkeys and we were able to see the giant river otters. The lodge is quite simple, but has a generator during parts of the day so at times we had a ceiling fan and we did have hot water. Food about the same as at Heath. Good soups, meat and rice.
We had no rain while we were there. but it rained all day after we left - take along some rain gear. You will also need it at MP.
Have fun - let me know if you have any more questions.

This is great report about your trip. But I'm curious .....you mentioned that you only saw a lot of birds, some monkeys, and the giant otter.....were you expecting to see a lot more like jaguars, deers, caimans, boas, etc etc...?

Wow, that's extremely helpful. A few more questions if you don't mind:

At Heath do you know if there was a main area with access to electricity at certain times of day? With a digital camera we'll have to figure out some way to recharge batteries.
I realize it's different for each person, but did you have any altitude adjustment issues at MP or Titicaca?
Did you have a guide at MP? (we're strongly considering just using the Wright guidebook recommended here).
Was there much to see in Puno?

I would suspect that packing was a challenge, going from the heat of the jungle to the cold of Titicaca!
It's a shame you didn't see any animals at Heath beyond birds. It sounds like two nights in each location is about right - probably worth me reconsidering our itinerary.

Thanks!

Hi Heather -
I do believe they had a generator going at least part of the time in main lodge at Heath.
Yes, it is a challenge to pack for two extremes. We had wash done in Cusco - after the jungle everything is dirty! It is easy and very cheap - our hotel took care of it. Then again had some done in Puno.
Let's see - to answer your questions. Yes, altitude is definitely a challenge, but we were never "sick". Had two days in Cusco before our Inca Trail trek. I took Diamox, 125 mg twice a day and my husband didn't. I think I was a little better off on the trail because of it. We had a guided tour of Machu Pichu with our trek operator which was great (Andean Life). By the time we got to Puno/Lake Titicaca we were somewhat used to the altitude. The Lake is interesting, but a very long day (we did a visit to Isles Flotantes and Taquiles in one day), and there is not a lot more in Puno to see/do. We had a good dinner there at Inca Bar, though the service was terrible.

Have a great time!

Pls can you recommend hotels in Puno for two adults?