My July trip to Oaxaca was wonderful! It really exceeded my expectations. This post is intended to help those who are planning a trip.
- we stayed in La Casa de Los Sabores B&B: it was quite nice and the breakfasts were incredible. The owner of the B&B also owns a restaurant, La Olla, which I would recommend for lunch (set price of $6/great value).
- plan to relax and people watch at the zocalo every night
- restaurants: We stuck with our guide book recommendations (Casa Oaxaca, El Naranjo, La Olla) and found ourselves among other non-Mexicans/travelers doing the same thing which really took away from the experience. I'd suggest venturing out on your own or asking locals for other great places. One GREAT meal: La Casa de la Abuela - blue building in the zocola with the restaurant upstairs. Get the Almond Chicken - you won't be sorry!
- side trips: MUST GO TO "HIERVE EL AGUA" in the Sierra Norte!!! This was my favorite and locals told us about it. It was not in our guide book. So peaceful and beautiful. You can stay in bungalows for $8US a night if you want more time
- Monte Alban (of course)
- I loved the black pottery and the town of Tule (very well groomed)
- go to Noviembre 20 market
- Saturday market (of course)
- drink Chocolate everday you are there - it is not the same when you try and make it yourself!
- Don't miss all of the lovely churches

Thanks for the report, Betsy. We're making a return trip to Oaxaca next March - our last trip was over 10 years ago, and I'm quite excited about it. Coincidentally I had just sent a note to Los Sabores B&B, and got a reply from them today, so I'm happy to hear that you liked it. I'm also making inquiries at other places as well.

How did you get to Hierve el Agua? It sounds like an interesting side trip.

Thanks again.

Los Sabores was, indeed, very nice and the breakfast was the best I've had at a B&B (all fresh and healthy). The location was not as close to the zocalo as others, but not too far at all.

We actually rented a car for Hierve el Agua. If you do this, be sure to get very good directions from your rent-a-car place or go to the tourism office off the pedestrian street and ask for Maria - she is very helpful.

I know there are buses that go to and from Hierve el Agua from Oaxaca. I'm not sure how, but I discovered that Lonely Planet is the only guide book that writes about this. Also, I noticed in some of the youth hostels that they had photos and tours or bus packages to Hierve el Agua. It will take about an hour+ to get there.

Hope this helps - have a wonderful time!

To get to Hierve you can rent a taxi by the hour, rent a car, take the bus from the second class bus station on Saturday mornings, or bus to Mitla and get a bus from there to Hierve which, for me, is the easiest. As recently as June the final portion of the road there has been closed on occasion due to a dispute with locals over who gets the revenue from Hierve. It is worth finding this out before you go up there if it is still going on. Also, if you like it around Hierve you may enjoy heading up to Ixtlan and Guelatao which can reached by taking a collectivo close to the Benito Juarez statue at the south end of Oaxaca.

Thanks Betsy_B,
I'll follow your lead if I ever get bored in San Miguel de Allende.
M

We ended up booking Los Sabores. I had hoped to stay at Azucenas, but they are already booked during that time. I'm sure we'll enjoy the other place, especially the breakfasts.

Thank you for your report I loved Oaxaca. We were there last November. We stayed in Las Buganvilas owned by the sister of the owner of Los Sabores who is also the chef at La Olla, both are great places to stay and food in La Olla is great.. I agree with you that it is silly to follow, only, the guide books and to end up in the same places that everybody else. Hope you enjoyed it, I am looking forward to be back.