Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Mexico & Central America
Reload this Page >

Notes from Shillmac on Recent Visit to Costa Rica

Search

Notes from Shillmac on Recent Visit to Costa Rica

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 19th, 2007, 06:18 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Notes from Shillmac on Recent Visit to Costa Rica

Good evening all! First of all, thanks to everyone who was helpful in my planning of this little vacation for 7 of our family members and a few in-laws.

We arrived in 3 different groups starting Thursday, the 8th, about noon and ending Friday, the 9th, about 7:30. We began our adventure together that night at Las Orquideas for dinner and drinks (until almost midnight!).

NOTE: Lots of you have mentioned the ATM at the airport. I'd like to add something further (probably has been said, but I didn't catch it). It is a Bank of San Jose ATM. This is one of the few in the country that will accept Mastercard CIRRUS. We found this very helpful since that is our card (it takes Visa PLUS as well). We'll know exactly where to go everytime now--right off the bat. Just exit out as usual (where the mad throng awaits), go to your right, then up the stairs or escalator. It's right there at the top. Very convenient. Worked like a charm. Also noticed one where you buy your exit tax, but the one outside seems a little more convenient.

Spent the night at Hotel Villa Bonita (4 rooms we had reserved some time ago) with Humberto, Carmen, and little Felipe. The next morning, after breakfast, we gathered ourselves together (that proved to be very tricky the entire time!!) for a tour of the countryside. But not before my daughter held 8 month old Felipe while his father played the guitar. We got such a kick out of Felipe "dancing". He kicked both of his little sandals off in his excitement at Dad's guitar playing and singing.

Visited Doka (didn't do the tour), cleaned out the gift shop (well, almost--we had some bona fide SHOPPERS with us!) and just walked around checking out the estate.

On to Poas (should've skipped this), but not before the clouds gathered. We arrived about 9:30 and it was TOO LATE. In hindsight, I'd go there first, then do a little backtracking to Doka since it isn't that far in between. Again, though, the shoppers among us loved the gift shop at Poas, and we had a nice late morning snack there.

From there we headed over to La Paz. NOTE: There is a warning in the parking lot not to leave anything of value in cars. We tend to obey these warnings and I remember it coming up on Fodor's a couple of weeks ago. I specifically looked to see if there was a sign and yes, there was.

It was cloudy and drizzly the entire time we were at Poas and La Paz. A little cool. Our group LOVED La Paz which was so gratifying to us. They loved everything about it. So much was new since we were there 2 years ago. The butterfly observatory was fabulous. The herpatarium (LOL--or whatever the heck it is called!) was interesting as was the ranario (frog house). The aviario wasn't open yet (and I really don't care much for the idea of the birds being enclosed). It will be soon. Our son in law spotted Kenny Chesney in the Butterfly Observatory, but thought it best not to tell us (guess he thought we'd embarrass him--who knows?) until several days later. I'm pretty sure the morphos were way more interesting to us, though!
I think we would have contained ourselves--I'm not that much of a fan anyway!

The little Costa Rican house was interesting where one of the young women served us all a little cup of agua dulce and we watched her cook some tipico dishes on a wood stove. We enjoyed the oxcart and oxen and the boyerio. My son-in-law's mother climbed up into the back and looked like Ben Hur in a chariot. We laughed a lot--can you tell? When it was time to put the oxen up, the boyerio tapped them on the noses with a stick and they backed right into their enclosure--very well trained. I tried it with my husband, but it wasn't as effective. Tully, later on while riding horseback on the beach, Miguel told me I might try a machete. He thought it would work better--the dull side of course!!

The waterfalls were beautiful as usual. My son-in-law is a mechanical engineer and was quite impressed with the workmanship of the stairway leading down the falls trail. He thought the steep price of admission was well worth it and necessary to pay for the job well done in designing the place. We paid $29 each. It was $23 2 years ago.

We left La Paz and arrived at Colbert's for dinner about 4:00. What an excellent meal we had here! Very easy to find--just leave La Paz, going back the same way (rather than on toward the Sarapiqui area) and make a left turn in Vara Blanca. This road takes you back into Heredia so you complete a loop if you leave from Alajuela. The restaurant is only about 5 km from La Paz.

These were some of the things we thought were very good and we passed our plates so everyone could sample a bit of everything:

Heart of Palm with mushroom sauce in puff pastry

Cheese Plate

French Onion soup

Chicken liver pate

I forget what all our main courses were, but I just remember all of it being very good.

Two wines we had, one red, one white--both were excellent and complimented our meal nicely:

Barton & Guestier, Vouvray, 2003 (red)

Cotes de Rhone, 2003 Georges Duboeuf

We lingered long, and by the time we left, it was dark and foggy. Not the best of driving conditions. We were all in a 7 passenger XL7--my husband got us back all in one piece, thankfully. We made a wrong turn in Heredia, so wandered around it bit there--always a little different in the dark.

I forgot to mention that the day before, when we arrived at the airport at 2:45 p.m., DH and I had picked up the vehicle at Tricolor and driven to San Joaquin de Flores (about 10 min from the airport) to visit our friends, the Espinoza-Aguilar family. My Mama Tica and Papa Tico, from earlier homestays (and scheduled again for this June). We were to be a part of their granddaughter's wedding (the next Saturday, March 17) and had brought some "wedding stuff" from the states: guest book, photo album, toasting glasses, wedding confetti, ring pillow, cake topper, etc. They informed us to be sure and be there the following Saturday by 2:00 to help dress the bride and help them prepare for the 4:00 wedding. We said, "of course" and off we went. More about that later!

Did a little laundry back at Hotel Villa Bonita, visited Mas X Menos and the farmacia and got to bed early. My son-in-law's mother and sister (they are the ones who had arrived early on Thursday and had already been out touring all day Friday when the rest of us arrived) had an EARLY 6:00 a.m. flight to Puerto Jimenez, the rest of us to follow at 10:30.

Next up: Bosque del Cabo
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2007, 07:25 PM
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Bosque del Cabo portion: What a nice time to be there, in March (although I enjoyed early July there as well and booked it again for this July as a solo gig following 3 weeks of Spanish school).

It was very dry (except for a brief time one afternoon which thrilled everyone including the staff).

We arrive Puerto Jimenez about 11:30, were picked up by Cirelo, a taxi driver. Frank (Pato) and Kevin were picking up other groups at or near the same time. We flew down on Sansa, back on Nature Air. Prefer Nature Air, I think. BdC seems to prefer them as well.

First stop was the mini super for bathroom and beer! Yes, in that order. I got an entire quart of Imperial and drew a few bemused looks as I exited with it. All I could think of was, "Tully would do the same!" LOL! I did share (begrudgingly) with my husband on the drive up to BdC. Outside the grocery store, Kevin came over to visit with us and showed us to scarlet macaws on a branch right above our taxi. It was a nice start! Beer and birds!

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Eduardo and Gerly. It was nice to be ushered right to the table for lunch (as is the custom upon arriving at BdC--food first!) and to meet up with those of us who had arrived earlier. They were waiting at the table with huge smiles, having been there since 8:00 a.m.!

Just a few highlights of the next 4 days:

Primary forest hike with Phillip on the Zapatero Trail--we did this first thing Monday a.m. and everyone enjoyed it. As those of you know who have done it before, no one tells the rainforest (or moist forest) story better than Phillip. This guided hike is a don't miss.

Birding with Eduardo: my daughter indulged me and went our the Eduardo and I early one morning. He offers afternoon tours as well, but it seemed the early start to the day made better use of our time. I added about 20 new sightings to my life list, one of them the Common Potoo, which Frank showed us on the way back to PJ on Thursday. I was especially thrilled with that one, having thought I might never see one! I got a few good photos, one of them of this bird, but nothing like the quality that SOME of you have posted!

Horseback riding with Miguel: Tully really stressed this one, and boy, was it a treat. I spoke with Phil about it one evening and he confirmed for us what she had already said. A true Costa Rican experience. All 7 of us went, mind you, including my son-in-law's mother, who has Parkinson's. I swear her energy put us all to shame! I was amazed at her desire to do it all--and very impressed! Back to Miguel. . .the horseback riding was fabulous! Phil took us to Miguel's home, a little wooden shack probably just right for him--very simple with a simple little outdoor bathroom and shower. He had 7 horses all ready for us. Mine was Pirata, or Pirate. Off we went through the forest and down to the beach. If I could describe for you the joy and freedom of riding on the wild Pacific side with its crashing waves, sometimes hitting rock and roaring 30 feet or more into the air, I would. It was simple indiscribable! We galloped, we walked, we rode in pairs, in threes, singly, all of us visiting with one another, me trying desperately to capture everyone on camera (didn't do too badly) and manage my horse at the same time (he already had his mind pretty well set on what he needed to do!). It was an afternoon for a lifetime, that's for sure. Thank, Tully! We stopped at the end of the beach in front of the huge rocks to rest the horses and walk out on to the rocks to view the huge waves. Miguel took his machete and prepared coconuts for us to drink and eat the meat. We all reveled in the moment, enjoying every single second. 3 of us were Spanish speakers and my son in taking a Spanish II course, so we were able to converse nicely and get in some good practice. Miguel was excellent, not only in horsemanship, but in pointing out birds as well. He was genuine, friendly, and a great guide. Very happy, a true people person. I'll do that one again!

The Pacific Trail and the El Ramanso Waterfall: DH and I didn't walk the distance down the beach to the fall on our last visit, but we all made it this time. It was such a fun time. The fall was magnificent and we all climbed our treacherous way up the rocks to it and stood beneath letting the icy water beat the heck out of us--hooting and hollering the entire time. We older gals even made it up there just fine and down (with a little help). I wouldn't have attempted it if alone, but with a group was no problem. In fact, I scrambled up there like a mountain goat (albeit an old one) ahead of everyone else. On the way back, about 4:30 p.m. (3 hours after low tide and an hour of hiking ahead of us back up the beach and trail), a nice wind hit with thunder and raindrops. I was glad it didn't come a gale and blow trees down while we were on the trail, but the coolness was nice!

The Golfo Dulce Trail: One of my favorites, but I didn't do it this year. DH and our son did, along with the others. Our daughter decided she needed some down time (indeed we had hiked morning and afternoon and were all going like gangbusters), so I stayed with her to visit. We got reflexology appointments with Uta. What a gorgeous setting she had back behind the bar a short distance at the base of a very tall tree--great view while lying on one's back!) There was a toucan on the ground (that seemed odd to me) scavenging around and spider monkeys putting on a show--not overhead thankfully! I'd not do the reflexology again--it was a little painful and I really didn't need any of my "organs" fixed. It was my feet that hurt, and I was just wanting a nice relaxing hour long foot massage! So what do you do when your feet are the problem, I asked? She kept torturing me! SIL's mother had gotten a massage and enjoyed it, though. The setting was nice.

We also enjoyed the pool and the bar, reading our books, and taking a short hike on the Creek Trail together.

Other Hiking: Several of us saw peccaries on the Creek Trail and the Titi Trail, but DH and I didn't. We all saw lots of capuchin monkeys, spider monkeys, and squirrel monkeys on the Titi Trail and on the road. I was glad because last time, we'd not seen the tiny little squirrel monkeys. Enjoyed cooling off one afternoon in the little river pool near the end of the Zapatero Trail (short distance from the Tropical Garden area)--until the water bugs got on me and little things underneath were nipping at my legs! I got out in short order. . .

We were on the Titi Trail 3 times and once did the entire Saino Trail hoping to see peccaries. Didn't see much on this trail, although I think sightings are fairly common. We HEARD some grunting, but didn't see anything.

Birds: The Potoo, Pale Billed Woodpeckers (loved the solid red hed), Bay Tanager (I'd wanted to see this guy for awhile), Lineated Woodpecker (more common), Back Throated Trogon, Roadside Hawk, Night Hawk, Yellow Caracara, to name a few. Saw LOTS more toucans than last visited. They were everywhere. And of course, the macaws. . .

Night Hike with Phillip: My daughter did this one with me the evening we skipped the Golfo Dulce Trail. We saw lots of good stuff, even though the rainy months are a little more lively. Red Eyed Tree Frog, spiders, of course, the night hawk, cat-eyed snake, Bolivian frog, marine toad, tent bats, to name a few. Phillip never disappoints! So glad he seems to be recovering from kidney surgery a couple of weeks ago (goodness, I'd still be in bed and he's out hiking miles a day)--seems several doctors misread a CAT scan and thought he had a malignancy, did immediate surgery, and found it wasn't that at all, but a bleeding artery? It all sounded a little odd, like a huge mix up, but the good news is he's going to be with us all a bit longer! And he seemed very thankful as he loves his family very much and wasn't quite ready to leave them (his words)!

Chocolate! I had bought some nice dark chocolate (almost puro) bars at a chocolate shop in the Houston airport and had intended to leave them in Alajuela at Humberto's. Forgot and took them to the Osa, so had to keep them in the pool bar fridge. We'd have a little snack in the afternoons after lunch. I offered some to Jose one afternoon and found him to be a lover of dark chocolate as well--very good for you, you know!

Jose's bartending and singing: always a spirit lifter--more ways than one!

The cabinas: Mariposa was indeed beautiful and our kids loved it. SIL's mother and sister were next door in Congo. DH and I were next to them in Lapa, and our son was alone in El Sol (the cabina we stayed in 3 years ago). Here is my revelation: Yes, Tully, after Jose's drinks they all look the same! No, seriously, I looked in all of them and a few others. I will never forget how much I enjoyed the shower in El Sol and still think it has the best shower of the bunch. It is in the sun, great ocean view. Our Lapa shower didn't have an ocean view, nothing special view, and I didn't like that very well. So I requested El Sol for my visit in July. I checked out the cabinas with the lofts (someone on Fodor's had asked me to do that, can't remember who?) and they were all nice. I specifically remember Palma, I think. I liked the layout of it, especially. Can't remember specifics about the other one I looked at. One had a loft, but no beds up there, I think. The loft area had the entire front of the cabina portion opened up to allow for ventilation. There was a big wedge of area (top of front cabin) lifted up to allow a breeze.

The howlers: love waking up to them, had one RIGHT outside our cabina one morning. Man, was he loud! One night a huge branch fell on top of our cabina and it was a huge crash. Woke us both up in a panic sitting bolt upright! We looked around outside with flashlights, couldn't see a thing and were quite puzzed--saw the branch on top the next day. It had even awakened the group in the cabina next to us, if you can imagine!

Had a little trouble sleeping the entire stay at Bosque. Not sure why--I would go to bed so tired and then not sleep well. Took a sleep aid one night and that was helpful, but didn't want to do that every night. I wasn't worried about bugs (although DH had to go over to the cabina next door and usher a large katydid out the door--he was summoned back again a bit later to get a spider off the mosquito netting, but it fell and scuttled under the bed, which wasn't a good thing). Those gals slept the the candles on all night, which didn't help I'm sure. We had nothing but a little spider or two. Phillip informed us that during March and April there is almost NO problem with bugs and we never once used repellent. His suggestion. It was not a problem at all. I'll use it in July, though.

Another Highlight: Jose's blackberry milkshake--to die for! Don't miss it!

Another Highlight: Meeting Francetrip (another recent poster). We knew we'd be there at the same time, so I sort of had it figured out and walked up to their table one night and just asked (thinking it was one of the ladies). Well, no, it was one of the men! As we all know, sometimes hard to tell! He informed me that he does have a bit of a feminine side! LOL! This guy was a hoot--life of the party all week long! One of my best memories will be the afternoon my daugher and I stopped by Miramar on one of our hikes (they'd said to stop by anytime). We yelled, "Yoo Hoo", Oklahoma - style, and someone called back, "Who is it?" Long story short, they had just gotten out of their shower, were wrapped in towels, and sitting out on the deck enjoyed that fabulous panoramic view. We got the full tour with Jefr and his wife still wrapped in towels (although he did go change at some point). Where else but Casa Miramar, Bosque del Cabo, could that happen? I was telling Phil and Kim about it later, and they got a kick out it as well! Very gracious couple--they insisted on showing us around. They were loving it there--and it IS a beautiful "house".

Well, folks, I'm sure I'll think of more later regarding the Osa. We flew out on Thursday at 11:45, after 4 nights and days of delight. There can't be many places on Earth more special. Let's all do what we can to protect it.

I'm signing off for now, as it is late, and estoy muy cansada. . .more tomorrow--coming up, Arenal and Tabacon Hot Springs--then, La Boda!

Sweet dreams. . .
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2007, 07:37 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for sharing!
hopefulist is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2007, 08:11 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh Jill, it all sounds so absolutely fabulous! You can bet I'll be taking notes with this one, down to the beer stop, horseback and blackberry milkshakes! Also, I have a good zoom on my camera so I hope to get some good wildlife pics.

BTW, it was me who asked about the cabinas, although I won't complain whatever we get, that's for sure! In the beginning, I asked for Mariposa, and I think someone suggested Toucan, and BDC said they would try to accomodate us.

Now you get to go back soon and fill in some of the things you didn't have time for!
hipvirgochick is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 05:22 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a wonderful report. We're going to BdC on March 30 for four nights--can't wait. Horseback riding sounds terrific but only one of us speaks a bit of Spanish. Do you think two boys 12 and 14 would enjoy it anyway? Will Phil still be there in 10 days do you think? Thanks so much for filling us in. HOpe our visit to Poas has better weather. Looking forward to hearing about Arenal.
sms73 is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 05:45 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Kenny Chesney was in the same space as you and you didn't get to say hello!?!? I would let your SIL know THAT was a site worth seeing!!
Anyway, enjoyed your post.
bamababe is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 05:59 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a great, and super detailed trip report! Thank you so much for sharing the details! I'm looking forward to reading about the rest of your trip. I printed out your report so that I know what to look for when we go to BDC next month! Thanks so much!

ShellD is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:11 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jill,

Welcome home and thanks for the post. Even though we aren't going to make it to BdC this time, I'm enjoying all this great info for a future trip.

Can't wait to hear more.

We'll also have an XL7 from Tricolor. How did you like it?

Fran
Floridafran is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:32 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the great trip report. That isn't an easy climb up into the waterfall - good for you!

We also wondered about how different it would be at Bosque during green season. Would like to do it, someday.

Look forward to hearing the rest of your report.
janenicole is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 01:13 PM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Janenicole,

The green season will be wetter, of course, but when we were there in early July 3 years ago, it wasn't bad at all. Mostly a brief p.m. shower (not every day) and rain during the night. More humid for sure. Sheets felt damp at night--clothes wouldn't dry, hair wouldn't dry. A little buggier, but we thought July was an excellent time to visit--greener, also!

Fran, although 7 of us pushed the limit for the XL7, it worked just great. Only complaint was not much leg room in the back seat, but we managed just fine. Only had it for one day while touring the north loop from Alajuela to Heredia.

sms73--your language skills will NOT be an issue. Joy, excitement, and pure pleasure break the language barriers every time! Definitely with your kids you should do the horseback. It was a super delight among many delights!

ShellD and hipvirgochick,
You're gonna love it--any of the cabinas are great. I just really like the sunshine in the shower, though! The loft looked really cool--I don't think we looked in Toucan--it was La Palma, but probably very similar with slight differences. They each seem to be just a little different one from the other.

bamababe, no way can KC be better looking than a blue morpho!

By the way, I should make a correction:

The horseback with Miguel was in the a.m. Started about 9:30, ended up about 12:00 or 12:30. I think we were out a little longer than the usual 2 hours. It would better less pleasant in the p.m. with the sun directly overhead, I think. I will NEVER forget walking my horse through the waves--he loved it!

Back to the blue morphos--they were everywhere. Twice as I walked up the road toward the Titi Trail, I counted 4-5 floating around. They always remind me of a little piece of heaven floating down to earth. Love them!

More tonight. . .
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 03:02 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report. Sounds like you are as hooked as I am on Bosque del Cabo. Will definitely have to try the milkshake. I have been drinking Mora con leche for years but have never seen it offered as a shake.
Suzie2 is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 04:15 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh Jill, such a wonderful time! Can't wait to see the pics.Loved all of your report. We will be back next yr! With our family. Toni
parrmt is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 05:22 PM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well, the pics will be awhile, but they will come!

As for the milkshake--same with me--mora con leche always before. The shake was special! Someone at the pool recommended it to me and I wasn't disappointed.

Another thing I forgot to mention about Bosque del Cabo: last time we were there, my husband and I spent NO time around the pool. We hung out a little this time and were treated to a hummingbird nest underneath a palm leaf that extended out over the pool. The mother was in constant attendance (except midday), so that was fun to watch. Not sure if there there eggs or little birds.

On to Arenal!

Somehow, having another final stop before leaving the country made me a little less sad at leaving Bosque del Cabo. Just one last little fling to look forward to. And fling we did!

SIL's mother and sister had flown out at 6:30 a.m. because sister had a connecting flight home. Mom flew with her for company. The rest of us arrived via Nature Air at 12:30, taxied into Alajuela ($20) to Tricolor, picked up 2 Suzuki Ignus 4x4's, and drove to Hotel Villa Bonita.

We met up with Sue there, had a little lunch at Inti Raymi down the street (excellent Peruvian food) and off we went. Later than planned, but that had become the norm for our group!

There have been a few guesstimates on here about time to Arenal. I timed it this time. We drove the regular way, through San Ramon, took a 10 min. rest stop midway, followed a detour (the long Pena Blanca Bridge was closed) and arrived at Arenal Paraiso in exactly 2 hours and 45 minutes. There is a new highway approaching La Fortuna and it was fabulous! Not sure how far it went toward the lake, but it went as far as Tabacon for sure. We picked it up in the first town following the detour (about 10km from La Fortuna) and the driving was great all the way in. Shoulders and centerline had those little yellow night markers.

Checked in at Arenal Paraiso (total was $279 for each room, 3 nights, 3 adults, including breakfast). We really like staying here--they have added a lot more cabinas, which took away some of the pretty property I remember from last time, but business is booming, I guess. I've always described the cabinas as simple, but our SIL thought they were "beautiful little cabins". He really liked it, and as I looked around I thought, "you know, they really are pretty. Nice wood, medium sized fridge, AC, large bathroom, hair dryer, 2 queen beds, great view. A very good value, I still believe. We had the deluxe with the enclosed porches. We had a good clear view of Arenal all evening, but never did see lava flow (or boulders). Heard a few rumbles.

Highlights:

Tabacon, Tabacon, Tabacon! I will continue to recommend it, even though recent comments by other posters have made me second guess myself.

The 3 of us girls had 9:00 appointments in the spa. It has been recently redone and the hotel is now called Tabacon Grand Spa Resort. The spa was listed in a recent issue of Travel & Leisure as one of the Top 10 in Mexico, Central America, and South America.

We arrived at 8:30. There had been a mixup and when the front desk phoned the spa and I spoke with Johanna, she told me our appts. were moved to 10:00. This was perfect! We had the entire hot springs to ourselves for one whole hour. There wasn't another soul. It couldn't have been better.

We had reserved day passes for purchase at 11:00 when the guys were meeting us (and when the day passes begin). Originally we had been told we could only buy the $60 pass with lunch or dinner buffet, but a week before we left, the front desk mgr had e-mailed me that we were welcome to come in for the day at $45 per person, no buffet included. That's what we did.

I'm going into detail here because it might be useful info to someone.

At 9:45, after getting a couple of lockers, towels, and enjoying several of the hot springs, we showed up inside the spa, which was breathtakingly beautiful. I've been in a few, and this one had them all beat as far as relaxing decor--the total ambiance was just amazing. Candles, soothing neutrals, flowers, music, comfortable chaise lounges--I won't say more--just go! You need to see for yourselves!

Because we booked online, we received a 10% discount. One of us had the Swedish and 2 of us had deep tissue. $90 and $100 respectively without the discount. We gave the 10% back as tip.

The dressing area was very nice, lockers had little velvet lined jewelry boxes, fabulous robes.

We met our ladies (all female staff), and were each led to a gorgeous little open hut among the foliage--complete with all the wonderful sounds and smells. I asked for a glass of water, and quickly someone appeared with a crystal goblet of cold water.

I had the deep tissue and it was perfect--her name was Lorena. It wasn't the kind of deep tissue you sometimes get that makes you sore the next day. Just a little more pressure than the Swedish--it was excellent and lasted 50 minutes. You can book 80 min. as well.

We all finished about the same time and day in the chaise lounges, just visiting while we were served delicious hot tea. It was just such a treat. At 11:30 I went up to the front desk (in my robe, no less) to see if the guys were there yet. They weren't, so I went ahead and purchased the day passes for the 3 girls. They put my bracelet on there, then came down to the spa to put bracelets on the other two. It would have been nice if the hot springs day passes could've been included with the use of the spa.

We emerged from our reverie about 12:30 after invigorating showers in the most state of the art showers I have ever seen. 4 horizontal sprays, one hand held spray, and a huge rectangular overhead attached spray. One almost needed to be a rocket scientist to figure out how to get right water flowing!

The guys were waiting at the pool bar. Don't think you'll save any $$ by buying the $45 pass with plans for a light snack at the pool bar. Most sandwiches are around $13. The drinks were $7 or more--except beer. We indulged ourselvesw just a tiny bit, but no more. My daugher and I shared a $9 ceviche.

The others left about 2:30 to go back into town to shop or use the internet or just walk around a bit. DD and I stayed. The volcano was in full view (first time I'd ever seen it from Tabacon) and was just so cool to look at. We just relaxed all afternoon, reading, talking, swimming, walking through the springs again, etc.

We were picked up at 5:30 and we all met at 6:00 at El Novillo for dinner. DH and I had the filets and they were excellent--melt in your mouth tender.

Some of the others went back to the hot springs for an evening visit, but DD and I turned in for the night. Too much time at the pool bar, I guess!

This is what we found and what the bar staff confirmed: There were very few people in the a.m. and up until about 3:00 in the afternoon. The tour buses seemed to arrive later. The bartenders said that was normal and that the nights are really much busier. I went back over briefly about 8:30 to deliver a vehicle and it was a bit crowded. So I'd say mornings are perfect. And if you use the spa about 10:00 a.m.--you've got it made with that private time at the hot springs.

Be sure and take your water camera. I did, but it malfunctioned or was full or something. The views were so good, I just had to get photos, so ended up paying $24 in the gift shop. It was a real rip-off, but the pictures with the volcano will be nice to have. If they turn out okay. . .

Following breakfast the next a.m., we packed up and headed back to SJO area. Left about 9:10. We were 15 minutes east of the airport in San Joaquin de Flores for lunch by 12:00.

We went to a little soda just down the street from CPI (language school) for comida tipica--hadn't really had much of that this trip! $3 per plate, we all had casados, included a drink. Carlos, who has worked there for years, said to me, "You come every year!". Yes, that's about right!
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 05:41 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oops, hit the button a little too soon, but it was time for another segment anyway.

Hopefully you will understand I meant to say "LAY in the chaise lounges, not DAY in them"!

Okay, we dropped the kids and SIL's mom off at the airport at 1:15 for their 3:45 flight. I think they had plenty of time.

It was wedding time! You won't want to hear all the details about this one, but just suffice it to say that it was a fabulous event. In spite of limited $$, they had put together a beautiful wedding in that lovely 130 year old gray stone church in San Joaquin.

DH dropped me off at the house to help with the "dressing of the bride". I mainly occupied myself getting in some special photography that I thought would add nicely to their professional album. You know, mother/daughter, grandmother/granddaughter, candid types of shots. All the preparations!

DH arrived at 3:00 and at 3:45 we loaded the beautiful bride in her gorgeous dress (and I do mean gorgeous--it was something!) into the backseat of the Ignus and off we went the few blocks to the church. The rest of the family walked. They don't own a car.

While outside the church waiting to go in, overhead went the COPA jetliner that carried our crew off to Panama City and then Puerto Rico (where they live). It was a cool moment, and camera happy as I was, I snapped a photo of them! Probably looked like some kind of nut! Which is partly true. . .

DH and I had been asked to do the rosary lasso during the ceremony and found ourselves part of the wedding party and processional. We had no idea and were a little intimidated. It was quite an honor, though, and our seats were on the front row directly behind the bride and groom and attendants.

It was a beautiful wedding, a fun reception over in San Lorenzo. A few different customs (like pinning money on the bride and groom) and lots of dancing! The band was very good and everyone had a great time. The family had prepared tons of arroz con pollo and they served it themselves to all of the 200 or so guests.

The cake was pretty, but not large enough to feed so many, so the reception table with the cake was there as more of a formality. I was given the honor of cutting the cake the next day when DH and I visited the house one last time before our flight.

Our gift to the bride and groom had been a couple of nights at Manuel Antonio (they had taken the public bus at 6:00 the next morning), so they weren't at the house when we had the cutting of the cake. That was a little odd, but they arrived back today, so I'm sure they have enjoyed "their" cake that they didn't get to cut by now!

We had an uneventful trip home, arriving in the wee hours yesterday a.m.

Definitely this time was different, but was full of such poignant moments. Definitely it was one of our most enjoyable visits to the land of Pura Vida.

And Tully, just in case you didn't see it on the other post--when I told everyone you said "hi" and that you were returning in May (which Kim already knew, of course) they were all excited to see you again. And Jenny said, "Ah, ______, she's Pura Vida!"

What a compliment!

Thanks everyone, again, for the suggestions here and there!

cmfong--Panama will not be until end of July--but your suggestions have already been most helpful!

glover--anxious to hear all about Casa Bambu!

'night all!
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:13 PM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hipvirgochick--go to the post about "Photo Follow Up for Feb. Trip" and look at the photos--there are some really good shots of La Palma cabina. But did you say you were staying at Toucan? They weren't too different, if I remember correctly.
shillmac is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:44 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So nice to read your report jill, especially of course BdC. Thanks for saying hola to all for me, their response brought such a smile to my face. And you know I'm not just all about Imperials, I favour daquiri's too Glad you enjoyed heading out with Miguel, such an interesting happy person. You know if we ever do meet up at BdC at least we won't have to fight over cabinas, you know Lapa is my fave, I'll have to check out El Sol to remember it better. Too bad you didn't run into any peccaries, you could've warned them I was coming (hopefully I will be so lucky!) So much of what you wrote just gets me excited and so anxious to go. I really hope Phillip is there when I'm there, and after always passing I think I'll get a massage at BdC (but just a normal one!) I was really unsure about Peace Lodge at first but your report really drives it home that I will have a great time. I will have a full day and a half there, so looking forward to seeing all you mention - especially the frogs. The birding tour with Eduardo - would you rec even if I'm not much of a birder? Oh, just thought of something else, is Liseth back at Orquideas yet?

Really great reading your report, and now you have another trip to look foward to you lucky duck!
tully is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:54 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey Shillmac, what a wonderful time it sounds like you had! Can only imagine the happiness it must bring to continue to introduce Costa Rica to more family members. So many wonderful trip reports coming back from BdC, I'm sorry we won't be staying there in April - I kept saying we'd stay there next time - but then I got this Casa Bambu thing in my head ... I think we're gonna love Bambu though (well actually it's Casa Linda next door) - did you see our little house this time? That horseback riding sounds fabulous - like something we'd enjoy. Thanks as always for sharing your trip and enthusiasm. Sure hope we'll meet up down there some time for Beer and Birds.
glover is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 06:59 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jill,

Wonderful report. Sounds like you had a fabulous time. I can hardly wait for May.

We'll only be using the XL7 for all six of us when we want to go out to dinner or sightseeing together. The rest of the time the 3rd couple will have a Terios. And we're going with Tricolor. You're right about the price and Cynthia has been a patient angel.

Loved hearing about the wedding. I was lucky enough to get to attend the wedding of our foreman's younger brother when I lived down there. We were the only non-Ticos there.

Fran
Floridafran is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 07:48 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
shillmac -- I'm just going to have to read your trip report a few times to get this all in my head. Sounds exciting and blissful at the same time

At this point in time, I really have nooooo idea which cabina we're staying in, and I'm starting to not really care, as long as we're there! In my original reservation I requested Mariposa, Toucan or one of the loft cabinas. I thought my daughter might like the loft, but since it's just the two of us she'd probably rather be on the ground with me. Also, since then I've learned more about the individual layouts and any of them will be just fine. Will let you know how it ends up though.
hipvirgochick is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2007, 07:48 PM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tully, I KNOW Lapa is your fave. I kept thinking about it while we were there because, although all the cabinas are wonderful, somehow Lapa and I just didn't jive. It was all about the shower. Weird duck that I am. The El Sol shower has the low front, so you just get that more "out in the open" feeling, while still protected by the cannas inside.

I thought about you a lot and your hiking alone and the peccaries! I wouldn't want to meet any of them while alone! But there do seem to have been several sightings lately. Several at the lodge mentioned it. Good luck!

Absolutely you should go birding with Eduardo--great guy. It's a nice treat, and if you're not into birds, once you start spotting them, you will be! At least that's how it worked for me--I just went once and got all hooked! My daughter and SIL's sister said the same thing. Something about it. . .

You'll have a great time at Peace Lodge. Being there got us excited about staying in July as well. We're taking our granddaughter there for a couple of nights. She'll love it! Looking forward to just relaxing and walking around at our leisure--lots of birds there as well!

Glover, you'll enjoy Casa Linda. No, I didn't check it out. Only my husband went on the Golfo Dulce trail this time. I really hated missing that one, but preferred to spend time with my daughter! Her husband said (when he returned) that the idea of staying down lower in one of the casas really appealed to him (proximity to the beach, etc). The only thing he thought he'd miss was the BdC food--it was so good, better than I remembered. I had the banana pancakes twice! And the huevos rancheros were good as well. One day at lunch the casado came with yellow fin tuna. It was wonderful! And I'll bet we DO meet up for beer and birds one day!

Fran, we were just about the only Gringos at the wedding. There was one other couple who were doing a homestay with one of the Tico families. Also, my Tico family had a homestay student as well who chose to skip a Saturday excursion to attend the wedding. We hardly noticed the difference. We knew so many of the Ticos, it felt very comfortable. Like family. I got such a thrill out of watching my Mama Tica and Papa Tico (69 and 72 respectively) dancing together. She didn't do any fast ones, but boy, he sure did! I danced with him a couple of times and occasionally we would form one of those little dancing circles with 6 or 7 people. He loved his time in the middle! Quite a jig he could do! I smiled a lot that night!
shillmac is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -