Markets in Mexico

Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 11:53 AM
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Markets in Mexico

Anyone else a fan? It always amazes me how different markets even within one city can have completely different feels to them, and that certain products are only available in one small, isolated market.

Here is a recent visit I made to the Abastos Market in the city of Oaxaca: http://tinyurl.com/nzodgy
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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 02:48 PM
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Wonderful shots of the market! It takes me back.

The comments about the non-refrigerated meat made me smile. Many, many years ago, I was newly arrived on a small sailboat in Baja, and wanted a steak to cook aboard. My Mexican friend took me along to his butcher friend at the market. We walked up to his stall, and I tried out my Spanish to say I wanted some meat.

Up to now, I had not seen any cuts of meat for sale -- but there was this big black thing hanging from a beam overhead. The butcher asked me what kind of meat I wanted, and I answered, "Filete, por favor". He looked a bit puzzled and said, "Show me", slapping the black thing with his hand.

It was part of a side of beef that was completely covered with flies. I mean COMPLETELY! It was BLACK with them. As soon as he slapped it, the flies flew away, briefly, and I was able to point to the cut I would like.

He chopped it out, wrapped it, and I paid. As I turned to walk away with my purchase, I noticed that the side of beef was unrecognizably black again.

I have been in many Mexican markets in recent years, and I have never seen many flies on or near the meat. Any idea what they do differently today to stay insect free (relatively)?

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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 06:11 PM
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I was in the market in Jilotepec in central Mexico and was impressed with how clean it was. No flies around the meat there either.

I loved the variety, and everything was so fresh, I couldn't help but sample one thing after another; Figs, honey, pomegranate seeds, those deep fried donut things whose name escapes me now...

'Bustling' is a good way to describe the scene.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 07:54 PM
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Funny story, Nukesafe!

I remember my first trip to Mexico, @35 years ago. We were drinking pop in a small eatery and there were a few flies, which we waved away. Greatly concerned for the comfort of his patrons, the owner sent out a little boy with one of those old-fashioned "Flit" dispensers -- like the one Marlon Brando and the grandson play with in The Godfather. The child smiled reassuringly at us as he dampened everything with the strong smelling, probably carcinogenic substance.

There are definitely still flies, but maybe more of an attempt to keep them at bay, although I have no idea what methods are used. You do see more food items covered with plastic nowadays, and vendors use something that looks like an abbreviated pom-pom to keep the flies moving.

Femi ~~ sopapillas, maybe? I sorta moaned when you mentioned figs. Around here you never see fresh figs for sale. They sell them green to be cooked in syrup. Such a shame!

At the risk of boring you all with more of the same, here http://tinyurl.com/ye8l4b5 is the market close to where I live. I know you'll want to look when I tell you there are two photos of hanging meat! ;^}
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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 08:17 PM
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I once sat on the "small" Plaza in Patzcuaro sipping coffee watching a street vendor cleaning his taco cart. He scrubbed it in it's entirety for over an hour before setting up. Impressed the heck out of me.
PS Stopped back later for 3 fantastic Tacos Al Pastor con Coka for under 20 pesos.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 11:26 PM
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Ha ha! I have to admit the promise of more pictures of hanging meat made me look!

They were deep fried dough sticks sprinkled with sugar, quite common, even here in the US, but these were the best I've ever had. I just can't think of the name.

So many more things I wanted to try from my market visit, one of which was the fungus that grows out of corn. Has anyone tried that?

I had a beef taco which looked great, but which I didn't really enjoy because it was lots of beef parts chopped up and thrown in. However the stall was doing brisk business, so I guess it's an acquired taste.
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Old Sep 24th, 2009, 12:00 AM
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Stewbear, didn't you find that the taco carts in Patzcuaro fairly squeaked with cleanliness? I was deeply attached to the stainless steel one that sold tripas.

Churros! *slaps forehead* I think that's right, Femi. Do they look like this: http://www.capitalchurros.com/images/churro_stack.jpg?

The corn fungus is huitlacoche. I don't dislike it, but have never developed a deep fondness for it, either. It's sort of bitter.
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Old Sep 24th, 2009, 06:27 PM
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Yes!!!!! Churros! Now I can sleep at night! Silly, the things one forgets.

Glad to know I didn't miss much by not trying the huitaloche.
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Old Sep 26th, 2009, 04:44 AM
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I LOVE Mexican markets. Going to Oaxaca for day of the dead in a few wks so thanks for the pics.

I love the Cuidadela market in the DF. You can get almost any mexican handicraft there, from all over the country. Large olinala chests (which are hard to find), tin mirrors, jewelry, clothing from all over the country, baskets, leather, etc.

Also love the Merced market in the DF. That is where the locals go. HUGE, I mean HUGE, lots of food, stackes of cactus leaves, corn husks, stacked to the ceiling. An entire section just for candy, amazingly colorful.

Love the outdoor market in the square in Coyoacan. Lots of young people there on the weekends. Also the indoor market there.

Love market day in Cholula, when the people from the surrounding hills bring their donkeys in town, piled w/beans, veggies, etc. and set up impromptu places to sell right on the streets leading up to the indoor market.

What I really enjoy are the smaller markets that you just have to know about, tucked away here and there.
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Old Sep 26th, 2009, 04:48 AM
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Bixaorellana, I love that dish w/the fish in your photos that you have the fruit in (near the end of the postings). Where is that from, Michoacan?
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Old Sep 26th, 2009, 04:33 PM
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You have a good eye, Emd3! Yes, I got that six or seven years ago in Capula, Michoacan. Here's a picture of the top, sans fruit: http://tinyurl.com/ybp6t2m

I'm with you about the HUGE markets. Small is charming, but everything about the mind-boggling bigness of Mexico City is fascinating.

Too frustrating that there is no private message option on Fodor's. We could meet for coffee in between your cemetery visits.
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Old Sep 27th, 2009, 07:04 AM
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Bix, the fish gave it away...I have a vase from Michoacan w/fish on it.
We can email each other. We just need clear agreement on this thread that we want each other's emails, and then one of us emails the fodors editors (Katie usually responds) and tell her to check the thread, and they will send us the other one's email address. I've done that several times w/people on the Asia board.

Would like to email and maybe meet for coffee. So say you want to email w/me and I can contact the editors. I am going w/an old friend of mine (who is bilingual and used to live in Cuernavaca), she is delightful and we both love MX and travel there together every chance we get She was in Oaxaca this past summer and called me saying "let's go back!"

Would love to hear from others about their favorite markets and market experiences in Mexico!
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Old Sep 27th, 2009, 07:06 AM
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p.s. That dish is gorgeous! I want one! We should start a thread asking people to link to photos of crafts they love that they bought in or from Mexico.
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Old Sep 27th, 2009, 02:49 PM
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Yes, please, Emd3. I'd appreciate it greatly if you would pass on to the editors that I would like to exchange emails with you.

It is such a pleasure to be able to travel with someone you like and who enjoys the same things you do. My sister & I used to travel every summer, including one long looping no-plan venture from the border all the way to Taxco then back to Oaxaca so she could fly home.

I have a major fish fetish, so you can imagine how Capula affected me!

Thanks for echoing my sentiments in the OP about sharing market experiences -- come on, everyone!
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Old Sep 28th, 2009, 07:20 AM
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I am sending this post to the top of the list for the editors.
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