Liberia to Malpais

Old Oct 1st, 2006, 04:34 PM
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Liberia to Malpais

Any recent roadtrip experience from Liberia to Malpais? How long? Paved? Graded?? Worth it?
Thx
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Old Oct 1st, 2006, 07:45 PM
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It's been a year since we were on the road that tracks all the way down the east side of the peninsula to Paquera. It was THE worst road we've ever been on in CR. Extremely deep ruts and excruciatingly slow. Last I heard it was still in the same condition.

I'd suggest driving south of Nicoya (on highway 21), then turning left onto highway 18, crossing the Friendship Bridge, and driving south again to Puntarenas and the ferry to Paquera.

It will take you almost exactly the same amount of time (depending on how long you wait for the ferry), and the roads are much better. In addition, you can rest from driving for 1.5 hour while the ferry moves you along!

Do check the most recent ferry times as they are subject to change now and then. And you should plan to arrive at least 30 min ahead of time, more on a weekend. Have you seen this website? It has ferry schedules, but I'm not sure how updated they are. Lots of good info about the southern part of the peninsula.

www.nicoyapeninsula.com

Have a great time!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2006, 05:10 PM
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Thanks for the advice shillmac I don't get sick even on skytrek but the road from Nicoya to Nosara I got carsick from the bumpy roads so I will probably steer clear of the road on the east side. I see on other posts that you have crossed over into Panama from CR. After we leave Malpais we plan to cross over either to Bocas del Toro for a few days and then over to the David area for a few days or vice versa before concluding our trip in PC. Can you advise what your experience with this is and what you recommend - catch a flight? drive? bus? Thanks so much
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Old Oct 2nd, 2006, 07:11 PM
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We chose to combine flying and driving. We flew SJO to Bocas, then returned to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica by taxi. We could've taken the bus (and had thought we would), but decided to save a little time with a taxi. We were glad we did because the driver was very helpful in getting us back into Costa Rica--watched our luggage while we did the paperwork in Panama, then helped us carry it across the bridge (Sixaola River), watching it for us again as we went through customs on the Costa Rica side. His assistance expedited the entire process considerably. Of course, you can't take a rental car out of the country.

I think I'd probably opt to fly Bocas to David (assuming there is a flight). You could also use the bus between Changuinola (or Almirante, actually) and David, depending on how much time you want to spend in transit, or simply how you prefer to travel.

Bocas del Toro is the extent of our experience in Panama, although we hope to explore a little more later. Perhaps a rental car would be helpful once you are back on the Panamanian mainland or once you are in David? If not, then I suppose your choices are flights or buses.

There are a few things we really didn't think about. One was the necessity to pay the exit tax out of Costa Rica; another was paying $13 or so at the airport in Bocas (sort of an arrival tax; I'm sure it is used for airport maintenance). Others who crossed over by bus mentioned paying only $1 at the border to cross into Panama. When you reenter Costa Rica at the border, you have to show proof of plans to leave Costa Rica (airline paper ticket or printed e-ticket). If you don't have that in your possession, you have to go buy a bus ticket to leave Costa Rica. My husband bought a $9 bus ticket back into Panama. That satisfied the requirement.

I'm sure all this stuff is "old hat" to a lot of people, but we had no experience with border crossings, so it was all new to us.

So you've been to Costa Rica before, but this is your first time in Panama? I hope you have a great trip. Yep, you'll want to avoid that road down the Nicoya Peninsula--I doubt seriously that it gets on the maintenance list very often! Did you by any chance take a look at that Nicoya Peninsula website? It looks like the ferry times are pretty regular every 2 hours. I'd still check a couple of days before, or leave early enough to catch the 10:30 ferry. Your looking at about 6 hours Liberia to Malpais--at least.

When are you going? Have a great time!
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 10:56 AM
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Thanks again shillmac. We leave Feb 20 for 18 days in CR and then about 14 days in Panama looks like we'll catch a flight from SJ to Bocas for a few days then to David and then on to PC for the last weekend still working out the logistics for all of that I'll let you know how it all works out in a trip report. raspas
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Old Oct 5th, 2006, 02:14 PM
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Yes, please do. We spend at least a month in Costa Rica every summer between the end of June and the beginning of Augustd--and whatever extra "runs" we are able to make. I joke about having to return for coffee! We would like to explore Panama a little more--at least some areas, so I, for one, will be most anxious to hear your review. Thanks and have a great trip!
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