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Hi from Shillman. .Great Fun in Costa Rica!

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Hi from Shillman. .Great Fun in Costa Rica!

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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 03:57 AM
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Taking a photo of casado? That's a new one! You're right, the bus station isn't the best place to do that!

Not sure I could do a 10 minute speech even in English so props to you for breezing thru it.

Sounds like you need that day at the spa, especially after all those bus rides, hope you have a relaxing day.
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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 04:59 PM
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Yeah, I had to smile. . .I can remember photographing a red snapper on my plate at Puerto Viejo once!
. . .and then the little cat who was looking up at me from the sidewalk with this pleading expression!

The bus ride up yesterday was interesting. Bought 2 tickets again (one for my bag). Sat holding them both in my hand for anyone to see in case they thought the seat might be available. . .probably not the most popular thing to do, but I´ve noticed Ticos doing it as well, so figured I could get by.

I have a little information in this post that might be helpful for people traveling to Arenal (a couple of things that have been discussed in the past. . .)

First of all, I caught the bus in San Jose (at the Atlantico Norte station) at 1:40 (having ridden by bus to San Jose from San Joaquin near Heredia).

The last direct bus all the way to La Fortuna had left at 11:30 and I couldn´t leave that early, so I took a bus that went only as far as San Carlos (Ciudad Quesada).

I actually enjoyed the route as it went through Zarcero, one of my favorite places. The little church and topiary there always amaze me. . .I had forgotten how pretty. Also some very nice scenery and it had been a long time since I had been that route.

Once there, I discovered the bus for La Fortuna was leaving in 45 min. Not bad, but decided to try to hop on a bus to Tanque leaving immediately (thinking I´d save a little time and could take a taxi the short distance from Tanque to La Fortuna). One of the station workers told me plenty of taxis in Tanque. HOWEVER, after I bought a ticket and hopped on, a man from Tanque told me the opposite--no taxis in Tanque to take me to La Fortuna (at least not regular ones). I hopped right back off, thinking the last thing I needed to do was ¨hitch¨ from Tanque to La Fortuna alone. . .besides, I´d have time for a cafe!

This station (San Carlos) is huge. It is attached to a fairly nice (developing) mall of sorts and as I wandered around, noticed also a 4 movie theatre. Not bad. . .

4:45. . on the bus to La Fortuna. A woman from UpaLa asked to sit next to me. I scooted over (having not bought 2 tickets) and it was a good thing as the bus was not direct and picked up a TON of people (they were packed in the aisles like sardinias). I napped a little, but then she began to tell me she had problems. She had been to San Jose to see and attorney (and had a whole sheaf of legal papers in a folder to show me) about her 6 year old daughter who has been sexually molested at school by the maestro, who is 30. It was a horrible story and I told her I was very sorry, and talked with her a bit, but didn´t want to talk about it all the way. She and I both slept. Just before I got off at La Fortuna, she whispered for some money for more bus trips to SJO. I fished in my pocket and found four 500 colones coins (everything else was packed away). It was a sad story and probably true. . . .she seemed very nice but looked pretty down and out and as if she were carrying a heavy load mentally.

So the bus ride is over. . .think I´ll post this and begin anew lest I lose it!
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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 05:24 PM
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LOL. . .2 corrections. . .the bus did not have aisleS, only one! And Upala does not have a capital ¨L¨!

About the time it takes to get to Arenal from the airport area. . .more than once I´ve said 2.5, but up to 3.
I checked my watch and the time it took me to get from San Jose city to La Fortuna by bus was exactly 4 hours and 45 minutes. That included a 55 minute stop in San Carlos, coming from San Jose instead of Alajuela (we actually came through Alajuela, but first had to cross San Jose) AND stopping along the way many times to pick up passengers. So I figure yeah, 2 hours and 30 min. by car from Alajuela, pretty accurate. . .

Another thing. . .might as well rent a car in La Fortuna if you don´t have one. I should have done that, but thought I´d save a few bucks. HA! Cost me $5 to get from La Fortuna to Arenal Paraiso, then $8 to get to Tabacon this a.m. (they charge me for their drive from La Fortuna), then another $8 to get back to the hotel. I´d thought to eat dinner at El Novillo tonight, but that would have cost another $16 in transportation. LOTS of price gouging going on here---increasingly so.

The hotel here is charging a ton of money for dinner. . .$18-20. . .by U.S. standards not so bad, but for Costa Rica, ridiculous. . and the food here at AP is not that great. Breakfast is fine, but my chef salad and a small glass of wine last night. . .$16. Tonight I had an early dinner at the pool bar--club sandwich (very good) along with an Imperial and a Tropico Tico (very good with guaro and guaynabana). Tab was $18.

The owner of AP has built a fabulous mansion on the same side of the road just a short way down the highway toward Tabacon. No wonder! He´s raking it in!

Anyway, in short. . .need a car here, my opinion. Particularly if you want to explore on your own, back into La Fortuna, up toward the lake, Tabacon, Eco Thermales, etc.

As for Tabacon. . .I gave it a bit of thought today. They have raised their prices. . .now $55 for a day pass, $70 to include lunch or diner. . .$85 to include both. In March the day passes were $45.

I made a comment to the girl at the front desk, but you know, she just works there. I was NOT able to use the pools before my spa appointment (guess last time was a lucky fluke). The spa invited me on down (1.5 hour early) and I showered, relaxed in their jacuzzi, and passed the time in a nice way. They served me ice water and chocolate, so I was pleased! A nice little platter of 2 white chocolate covered strawberries and 2 white chocolate rice crispy things. Very tasty!

They explained to me that the resort springs and the spa are 2 separate entities, so people coming to the spa can´t use the hot springs without paying for the daypass. I pondered all of that and decided that the owners seem to be making Tabacon more of a private hot springs for hotel guests. I guess they have been so overrun with day trippers that they are trying to find a way to cut the crowds down a bit. Makes sense doesn´t it? And I´ll BET the hotel wasn´t filling up so much. You know the negative reviews the hotel (and its food) have gotten on a regular basis. This sort of prods people to stay at the hotel to get the hot springs free. My opinion. . .

In that case, certainly they are not concerned with public relations. Heck, they aren´t trying to drum up business. . .they are trying to cut it back a bit!

As for the spa, I was a bit disappointed this time and talked to them a bit before I left. Don´t get me wrong. . .the treatments were excellent, just excellent. . and the service outstanding. I had a wonderfully relaxing experience. That said, those excellent state of the art showers in the dressing rooms weren´t working so well. I tried both of them and the knob that adjusts all the shower heads (there are several small ones and a huge one) came off in my hand in both showers. Now this didn´t happen when I first arrived. It was almost as if someone had gone in and broken them on purpose. Who knows?

I did tell them that, although the service was excellent, the showers were terrible today and that any spa that prides itself (and advertises its status) on being one of the Tòp Ten in Mexico, Central America, and South America should not be having shower problems. That just doesn´t fly.

Ah well. . .enough of my carryings on! Have spent a pleasant afternoon at the pool bar, watched a toucan, and am turning in early. Under different circumstances, I´d have probably tripped into La Fortuna for a bit, but think I´ll just stay here. Have arranged the volcano tour for in the a.m. That should be interesting and we´ve not done that before. Then I´ll pick up the 12:45 direct bus back to San Jose. It will be nice not to have to change buses!

Hope all of you are enjoying your weekend. . .it´s beautiful here tonight. Forgot to mention that last night there was a full noon which lit up the night beautifully. I looked out my window before going to bed and there was Arenal, totally visible, with stars hanging out at the peak and a red glow coming from the top. . .it was quite a sight on a moonlit night!

She was clear for a bit this evening as well and I had to leave the pool bar and my sandwich for a quick run to the room to get my camera. Got a few very nice shots. . .

Ciao, everyone!
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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 05:31 PM
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Oh, Shillman, that is indeed a sad story. (This is the last time I'll call you that, for fear of having my age revealed!)

Might you experience a bit of culture shock, bouncing back and forth between Costa Rica and the US?
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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 07:03 PM
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Hi Jill,

I've been away from Fodors for a few days (tight project deadlines looming at work, putting in lots of overtime, aaargh!). I'm just now getting caught up with my reading.

You are just having memorable experiences right and left! The bus stories alone are quite fascinating. It's an interesting way to observe people here at home, so stands to reason the same would be true abroad.

It sounds like you are having some valuable experiences, but will be glad to come home for a few days. It must be sort of a unique experience for you to be visiting places like La Fortuna as a solo visitor, when you normally have family with you. I expect the experience has its pros and cons. Wonderful that you've had some nice, clear nights there!

Reading your report-on-the-fly has been very fun. Looking forward to the next post!
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Old Jul 1st, 2007, 03:36 PM
  #46  
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Hi cam. . .hope the work projects are all under control! And Molly2. . .you can bet if I had been able to remember exactly cuantos anos tiene. . .I´d have posted it! Should have just said ¨her 40th¨and made your day!

The volcano tour didn´t happen for me this a.m.. . .hadn´t taken any shoes by flip flops, trying to pack light and not really intending to do tours. So I hooked up with the Safari Float group instead. Not so great. . after Cano Negro. But would be good for young children and older adults who still want a little adventure in a rubber raft! Saw some wildlife, of course, but nothing extraordinary.

The bus ride home was from hell. Got on in La Fortuna and was given a yellow laminated ticket to guarantee me a seat to San Jose, I guess. Lots of stopping and starting on this ¨express¨ bus. In San Carlos, the bus stopped for a break for 30 min. I had a great front row seat and asked the driver if I could get off for a bathroom break and still have a seat. I was emphatic in my question and he in his response as well. Sure, of course, go ahead. I thought, hmmm. . .we´ll see!

As you might expect, I got back to find a line a mile long waiting to ¨subir¨and the bus full already. Of course, I got on, but no seat. . the aisles were crampacked, must have been 35 or 40 like sardines. The 2 hours after that were pretty miserable with all the constant curves. Pretty cozy as well. . .I got off at the airport and got a taxi into San Joaquin.

Raining cats and dogs now. . .looking forward to Friday´s early a.m. trip to Puerto Jimenez and BdC. It will be wonderful and I can´t wait! Still a little concerned about the close connections and the Nature Air ¨drop off¨at the international airport, but hopefully all will go well. I have the flight to Boston out of OKC the next a.m., so hmmm. . .things really need to work!

Am sure Boston and the U.S. in general will be a culture shock. . always is. No doubt I´ll be dropping toilet paper on the floor next to the toilet all over Boston!

Hope all of you have had a great weekend. . Pura Vida!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2007, 05:12 AM
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LOL! I know exactly what you mean about the toilet paper! Boy, you're really making me want to ride those buses!

Hey, why not go for 30?
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Old Jul 3rd, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Then 30 it is, Molly2! LOL. . heck, why not!

Two more days of school for me, then it´s off to Bosque del Cabo for 4 nights. I am getting very anxious to get there and having a bit of trouble concentrating on my studies! I´m trying not to get too sloppy during this last bit of time!

Will be busy trying to gather everything in prepration for getting to BdC. . .lots of little details I need to keep track of with regard to what stays and what goes. . .since I´m going directly back to the U.S. from BdC with no time to regroup. Gonna leave my ¨main¨bag with the family until our return on the 17th.

Cooking lasagna for them this evening. They are excited about it. . perhaps they shouldn´t be! We´ll see. . it´s my ¨signature dish¨, but Papa Tico doesn´t like it, so we´ll see if I can make a believer out of him! Also bought the stuff to make homemade chocolate pudding with whipped cream. We tried out the pure cocoa last night with hot chocolate. I make it pretty stong and they weren´t used to that, but seemed to like it.

It´s a bit expensive to buy the American products here, of course. I went into Heredia to the big HiperMas (kind of like Wal-Mart. .and Wal-Mart owned) to buy the things I thought I couldn´t get here in the smaller town of San Joaquin de Flores. Never could find the basil. . .alba haca in espanol. . .

I hope everyone is looking forward to an exciting 4th of July! I´ll miss the extravaganza. Here there is always a celebration at the cervezeria in Alajuela, free beer and everything. . but I won´t be going. .been there, done that. Need to be in class! It´s always in the a.m. and into the afternoon. Just for American citizens. . .the local ex-pats pull it together.

Adios for now. . .have a great week, everyone!
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Old Jul 4th, 2007, 05:38 AM
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I'd be getting anxious to get to BdC too. Hope you make your connection on the return, I think it will be smooth sailing (flying)! Haven't heard from yet but I think K&P will be getting back any day now. Safe travels & good weather wishes to you. Maybe you can go to Nic with me, sounds like you would be an excellent translator
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Old Jul 4th, 2007, 06:12 AM
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It was great reading about your experiences at Rancho. We were there in March and Herman was our guide as well. The hospitality was incredible and Kathy was a delight. It has really turned us on to birding and in three weeks we are venturing again from Costa Rica and are visiting the Pantanal and Southern Amazon where the birds and wildlife are supposed to be incredible. It is hard to compare places like Rancho Naturalista and Bosque but this will definitely be a new adventure. I thought the plane to the Osa was small the one to take us into the Pantanal is a three passenger. I will post the adventure as there is almost no information on Fodors about Brazil. Thanks again for bringing back some great memories of a beautiful and unique place.
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Old Jul 4th, 2007, 08:16 AM
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How did the lasagna turn out, shillmac? Sounded delicious to me!

Looking forward to your reports from BdC (you're not taking the bus there too, I hope ;-) ). I also join Tully in wishing you hassle-free flight connections for your trip home... and then to Boston, and then back home... and then to Costa Rica and Panama... You are a busy, busy lady this summer, but travel is valuable and fun!

The trip lhgreenacres has planned sounds pretty fascinating as well. I would love to go the Pantanal and see an anaconda (not necessarily too up close and personal, mind you!).
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Old Jul 4th, 2007, 10:52 AM
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LOL. . no, certainly NOT too close up, cam! One of the people I have met at the school here has been quite a world traveler. Her experience at the Pantanal was NOT a good one, as she said she and boyfriend apparently went during the wrong time of year and the total experience was a bust, from, the guide to the hotel to the wildlife viewing, etc. Had planned 5 days, cut it short to 2, etc. Unfortunately I can´t remember what month she told me they went. . .

BUT, lhgreenacres, I´m sure your choice of travel times will be perfect and it will be all that you expect it to be. Have also heard good things about ¨the Pantanal¨. . .have yet to try to find it on a map and know very little about it. You are right, not much posted, but I do remember a thread or two. . .

I agree with cmerrell that your trip sounds wonderful. . .and I´ll be anxious to read your report! Safe travels to you. . .

Wasn´t Herman a great character? I found him to be wise beyond his years and he is obviously Kathy´s protege! She is very proud of him and he beams when she brags on his accomplishments, particularly with learning English. Indeed he speaks very well for the 3 years or so that he has been learning. Excellent guide.

Yes, cam and Tully, I´ve often thought of this summer´s travels as a white water rafting trip. The Class V´s are coming up and I hope not to capsize! If I can just navigate through the 17th of July, the rest should be a piece of cake.

I am having a bit of trouble with the agent I am using for travels TO Panama, IN Panama, and BACK to San Jose. . .as well as the Canopy Tower reservation. Have been using CentralAmerica.com. . .this is the company that seems to handle Canopy Tower´s reservation requests. . .just a heads up. . not an easy group to work with.

I´ve been corresponding with ¨Marlen¨ since late March. She dropped the ball on the CT reservation, and I almost didn´t get the suite that we had requested. Had to call Canopy Tower and check on some things myself. Then she keeps trying to double charge for part of the total package. $300 (to hold the hotel) was charged to my credit card account first of April. Now she is trying to charge the total costs ($1400 for hotel and 3 flights), without regard for the fact that $300 had been previously charged. It has resulted in more e-mails back and forth than I care to count. . and tons of time on my part. . .constant vigilance has been necessary.

On top of that, I got the flight itineraries yesterday and she had booked our first flight for June 30 instead of July 30. As far back as April when she sent the proposed itinerary to me, she had typed in ¨June¨. I corrected her and she sent me a corrected attachment of the itinerary. Nevertheless, now that the flights have actually been booked, she booked the wrong date, so am having to stay on her tail about that. It has been quite a headache and I wrote a rather scathing e-mail yesterday. Haven´t heard back yet, although she is always very prompt to answer.

WHY AM I BORING FODORITES WITH THIS STORY? Because someone might want to use this company (based in SJO) sometime and everyone should be very aware. . .I think it will be okay. . but you sure have to keep a wary eye out. . I don´t like that.

Tully, I hope P and K have returned by Friday, also. . .looking forward to seeing them again. Did you e-mail her about the t-shirt that you want?

As for the rest of the trip report. . .not sure there will be much more! Probably won´t be time during the ¨Boston¨ part of the summer, and after that my husband, our granddaughter and daughters will be here and I won´t want to miss much time with them. Also, probably not much access as we will be moving around a bit.

Only one more day of school left. . .Probably a good thing as this week´s experience hasn´t been the best. I am in a class now with only one other person. . a teacher also. However, the profesora tends to teach ¨TO
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 05:33 PM
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Interesting cut off to the last post (mine). . .who knows what that was all about! LOL!

Won't bore you with the details, but Bosque del Cabo was delightful as you might imagine! All 4 days I just had a ball. . .even alone which I'd been a bit nervous about! Enjoyed visiting with Phil and Kim and Eduardo and Phillip and Jeni and Heilin and Jose and Frank and Gerly. . .well the entire team!

Spent my time hiking (never saw another soul on the trails, although about 25-30 people each night at dinner) and I'd stay out 3-4 hours at a time. Rest of the time I took those wonderful showers, laid in my hammock, napped, enjoyed happy hour, etc. It was paradise and truly restful for me.
It rained all thorough the night, every night (enough to keep me from horseback riding with slippery trails) and the days were pretty cool and pleasant, sometimes sunny, sometimes overcast.

Thanks for sending the little hello while I was there, HVC, it was good to hear from you!

Tully, there were no red shirts, but I got 2. . one for each of us, Friends of the Osa. Got a dull green (grayish green) one and a white one. Both medium. I don't care which I have, so just call it! I'll be in touch with you when we get home in August and will get it in the mail to you with the coffee!

Gotta run. . just got back from Boston. . it was a fabulous trip, loved every minute, want to go back!

Leaving for CR in the a.m. with our granddaughter. . much to do tonight. . gotta rearrange some packing and have a very early flight.

Hi Percy!

I hope all of you are well. . .will try to check in off and on.

Ciao!
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 06:50 PM
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Hola shillmac! Glad to have you back home! I was beginning to wonder... Wait a minute...are you leaving again?!?!? I can't keep track! I thought you might get a smile from a hello of a fellow Fodorite (either that or think I was stalking you)! Kim wrote me a really sweet e-mail after that. Telling me all about her AK cruise, and how she loves all of us Fodorites because we're so down to earth. We bought a couple of t-shirts at BDC too. They're a bargain price. Women of the Osa for me and a BDC for my daughter. Hope to hear more details of your time at BDC when you get a chance. I FINALLY finished my trip report, now it's your turn!
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 06:54 PM
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P.S. I had an experience with CentralAmerica.com too. They handled our Peace Lodge reservations (direct for PL website, but maybe there's another way). Anyway, they were quick to respond to everything, but not very clear in some of their quotes, like van x-fer's being per person, and intra-flight ticket changes having change fees per leg, not per round trip. After the fact, it makes sense, but these things aren't always obvious at the time. Also, per typical travel agent, they wouldn't let me make date changes on the hotel with out a change fee. I know it's in the fine print, I'm just not used to working with agents, and hotels are usually fine changing dates with plenty of advance notice.
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 07:32 PM
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Hi shillmac

I have been reading and following your adventures.

Sounds like you had a great time as usual in Costa Rica.

Take Care
Percy

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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 02:02 AM
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Hi, Shillmac - I'm sorry we just missed you at BdC. Welcome home, and I guess I should say Bon Voyage again! BdC was everything you said it would be.
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 03:44 AM
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Hola Jill! Heard from Kim the day you left, she told me about the rainy nights you had. Totally different experience on your own isn't it? Glad you made it, knew you would. Sounds like you made that tight connection you had eh? Jeez, you're back & then leaving again, must be rough! No worries on the short, whichever colour, I really appreciate it! Check in when you can

ps I thought of something....you'll have to come to Tampa to make sure DD is all settled in right?
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Old Jul 29th, 2007, 10:28 PM
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Hi VolcanoGirl, HipVirgoChick, Percy, Tully, everyone!

Just checking in for a bit--I seemed so organized for a while there, and now am quite frazzled! We have had a wonderful 12 days with our granddaughter and daughters. Tiring, but fun--as they say, there's a reason why little children are supposed to have young mothers! Our time alone with our granddaughter her in Costa Rica was a real treasure, though. She loved her time at Peace Lodge and all that it had to offer--and we loved 2 dinners at Colbert's!

VolcanoGirl, I KNEW you'd love it there! Wish we could have overlapped!

HVC, I'm just hoping the arrangements they have made with the flights will all work out starting in the a.m. I have no idea how much luggage we are allowed, so traveling as light as possible! Leaving for Panama at 10:00 a.m.

Tully, yes, already planning a trip in October--I've thought of that too! What fun it would be to get together! And you should know, Hunter followed us to our room one night and slept on the bed with us. Our gd was delighted to have him curl up next to her as she went to sleep and to find him still there in the a.m.! I dealt with my allergies just for her and made sure my contact was minimal! She calls him "Mr. Hunter".

I hope everyone is well. .anything exciting on Fodors? haven't had time to check e-mail for many days!

Hi Molly2 also!

HVC--anxious to read your report in total when we get home Aug. 7. And I will try to finish up mine. . .I've made a few notes since July 17. . .some hotel observations, etc. We've stayed at 3 new places during that time as well as our old standby, Flamingo Beach Resort. .

Good NIght Everyone!
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Old Jul 30th, 2007, 04:00 AM
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shillmac great to hear from you, was thinking about you just yesterday. Can't wait to hear more and awesome you got to meet "Mr Hunter" Have an awesome time in Panama and write soon!
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