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Costa Rica - Three Weeks in Paradise!

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Costa Rica - Three Weeks in Paradise!

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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 09:44 AM
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Costa Rica - Three Weeks in Paradise!

I spent three weeks in Costa Rica last month with some of my travels off the typical tourist route covering Turrialba, Earth University at Guacimo, Sloth Rescue Center near Cahuita, Selva Bananito Eco-Lodge, Savegre Mountain Lodge, Rancho Naturalista and Selva Verde in the Sarapiqui region.

Here is a link to some of my photos – I took 1100 in three weeks, so I have been deleting and editing a lot – this is just 140. Just hit the Slideshow option and if you would like to see the titles, hit Show Info. Enjoy!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rescued...7622950603940/

First night – San Jose, met some Tico amigos for dinner at Café Mundo. Loved the restaurant, located in an old house, reminded me of places in the French Quarter. Fun evening, catching up with friends I hadn’t seen since February.

Next – a small group participated in an eco-exchange program organized by Friendship Force International. First stop - Turrialba where host families were waiting. I’d been e-mailing with my host for several months and the entire family warmly welcomed me for the next five nights. Dinner was held that evening by all the hosts with special dishes they had prepared for our group, children doing folk dancing in gorgeous costumes and ended with us all salsa dancing.

Days - Guayabo Archeological Site, hiked the trails, learned about the native plants and the people who settled the area; Tapanti National Park - walked to the river, saw a beautiful waterfall, lots of orchids. Also stopped by the Casa del Sonador or House of the Dreamer, owned by the family of Costa Rica’s most famous woodcarver. Always wanted to stop by this wooden house, never had time. Senor Quesada died, his sons continue to carve gorgeous wooden statues, walking sticks and nativity scenes out of tree roots. Bought an interesting wizard figure for my garden, reminds me of Gandalf, very cool. Totally lucked out at Irazu Volcano, got there at 9:00 to crystal clear skies/fantastic views of the crater/lake. 30 minutes later clouds had rolled in for that famous view of white clouds/fog.

Enjoyed the botanical gardens and rookery at CATIE where my friend used to work and her husband still does. Had fun going to the Friday farmer’s market in Turrialba since Lisseth knows everyone in town, having been born and raised there. Met loads of new people and enjoyed the gracious hospitality of the Turrialba Ticos. My friend has even “adopted” a couple from Louisiana who moved there a few years ago searching for a great place to retire. Each day started by looking out my window at Turrialba Volcano – lots of steam/smoke pouring out of it. Park has been closed for a few months now since the volcano has become more active.

Next was three nights at the sprawling 8000 acre campus of Earth University at Guacimo where we learned about their leadership programs in sustainable agriculture and ecology. Earth accepts only 100 students per year from Latin American countries and Kenya. Stayed in the university hotel and attended lectures, toured the banana plantation, the ethno-botanical garden, the periurban recycling center, hiked in the primary nature reserve with its howler monkeys, went birdwatching and photographed frogs in the orchid garden. The students are very close knit since there are only 400 total and are mainly there on scholarships.

Drove down the beautiful Caribbean coast to the Sloth Rescue Center near Cahuita, met famous Buttercup, the center’s first rescue along with the sweet little orphans being cared for by volunteers. Canoe trip along the Boca del Estrella showed us herons, lizards and sloths.

Next - off to the small village of Bananito, inland from the coastal road where our transportation to Selva Bananito was waiting - a WWII military convoy truck! Piled into the back with our luggage, bounced up the worst road I’ve seen in Costa Rica. People say the road to Monteverde is bad, it looks like I-10 compared to this one. Drove through numerous streams and crossed the Bananito River a few times, drove up the middle of the river for a while.

An hour later we pulled up to this isolated property at the foot of Muchilla Mountain which adjoins La Amistad National Park. The owners of Selva Bananito are dedicated to conservation and the environment, have founded several organizations and foundations to preserve and protect the watershed of the Limon area. All eleven cabins have been built with reclaimed logs, are built up on stilts, have solar panel hot water heating, gray wastewater treatment and no electricity. My cabin had wooden shutter windows and folding doors leading out to the deck with hammocks and a fantastic view of Muchilla Mountain. My friend and I left the doors and windows open for the next three days to enjoy the sounds and views and used the mosquito netting on the beds.

Delicious dinners are served via candlelight in the rancho - first evening, sea bass. With no electricity, cooking is done via propane stoves, lanterns, flashlights and candles are provided in each cabin. Saw caiman’s eyes glinting from the pond when the flashlights hit them.

I came across a huge swath of leaf cutter ants on the move, seen them before, but never in these numbers. This army was about a foot wide, thick with thousands of ants, as far as the flashlight would go. I can’t even estimate how many there were, wish I had my camera with me. Guess they knew what I didn’t and were heading for shelter – torrential rain started during the night and didn’t let up too much over the next two days, so I took a “hammock tour”, chilled out, read, slept. Rain let up enough one morning for a horseback ride through the pastures, creeks, palm plantations, but my horse, Guicho, didn’t like my rain poncho, made him nervous, so off it came and the rains started up again. More hammock time along with my roommate’s bottle of rum and the rain didn’t matter! Next day, more rain, stopped long enough to head out with a guide for hiking – big mistake. The most challenging hike I’ve ever done due to the mud, mid-calf in some places, trying to suck the rubber boots right off my feet, slipping and sliding. No wildlife other than a snake and frogs, everything else was smart enough to stay under cover. Rain started up again halfway through, talk about drowned rats. Back to the hammock and the bottle of rum!

Back to San Jose (in the sun, of course!) where four of my friends from Baton Rouge flew in for a week of birdwatching. We hired a driver who took us down the Inter-American highway - first stop at rustic Paraiso del Quetzal for the fiery-throated and magnificent hummingbirds. I love the cloud forests with the lichens, mosses and bromeliads hanging from the trees. Driving through the clouds, we descended into the San Gerardo de Dota Valley and Savegre Mountain Lodge. We loved our rooms, newer ones on the hillside, excellent birding, great guide (Melvin) that we hired for ½ day birding, hummers galore – green violet ear, volcano, white throated mountain gems, scintillant, magnificent and quetzals in the trees right outside our door. Had three male quetzals competing for the lone female’s attention, pair of collared trogons along with numerous other birds. There were very few people there, our group of five, a few couples, a small group of eight guys. I highly recommend Savegre for anyone interested in birding, lovely location, great staff, will go back there again and enjoy the cool cloud forest.

Rancho Naturalista near Tuis (20 miles outside of Turrialba) was the next birding lodge – I was in seventh heaven with so many hummingbirds! Snowcaps, white necked Jacobins, hermits, violet sabrewings, brown violet ears, purple crowned fairies, violet crowned woodnymphs, green breasted mangos – 13 species in all, in spite of two days off/on rain. Late afternoon we walked to the clearing, waterfalls and pools in the woods to see the snowcap, purple crowned fairy and the red footed plumeteer splashing and flitting their wings in the water. Pure magic, a day I will never forget.

Stopped by Shillmac’s property to take photos for her and to be the first official Fodorite to visit – even though there’s not much happening with construction yet, the view is stunning. Good choice, Jill! What a dream come true to live around so many fantastic hummingbirds in a beautiful location.

The five of us were Rancho’s only visitors – it’s a theme we heard everywhere – tourism is down, economic climate has affected all hotels, every single owner thanked us profusely for visiting, particularly during the off season. I spent most of one day on the decks photographing the hummingbirds and other birds in the rain. So many new species – the bluecrowned mot-mot was a treat along with lots of tanagers, woodpeckers, chacalacas, oropendulas and collared aracaris.

Final stop was a three night stay at Selva Verde where I’ve stayed there before and love the rooms with the open air feeling of being in the middle of the rainforest. It’s one of my favorite places in Costa Rica. Took a boat tour on the Sarapiqui that afternoon, saw howlers, iguanas, crocodile, lots of birds – we were the only five people on the boat, so we had a private tour which was nice. The Sarapiqui is open to rafting again, but the water remains extremely brown from all the landslides in the January earthquake, plus all of the rain. It was interesting to enter the Puerto Viejo River and see the difference in color.

Next day was private birding tour at La Selva – saw loads of birds, including great green macaws flying overhead and nice view of the slaty-tailed trogon and the broad-tailed mot-mot. The coolest thing was five white collared manakins who set up a lek (were lekking?, not sure of the verbage on this) around one female. They flap their wings in a particular motion which sounds like someone snapping their fingers loud and crisp. They were in the brush but we were able to see several of them, quite a highlight.

Also had a private tour with Alexander, one of Selva Verde’s guides, over in the private reserve across the river on their newly rebuilt bridge. We started off great by spotting 6 pairs of great green macaws up in the almond trees, eating nuts. Alexander got them in his scope, was so excited and kept telling us how lucky we were to see this. Soon after, the skies opened up and other than frogs and a hermit hummingbird nest we saw nothing. After two hours of hiking through very muddy, slippery trails, we called uncle and threw in the towel, went back, showered, met Alexander at the bar and spent the rest of our day with him watching toucans, herons, monkeys, iguanas and other birds from the shelter of the rancho.

This was one of my best trips ever – I met so many interesting people and once again was shown fantastic hospitality for which the Ticos are so famous. Pura Vida!!
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 11:21 AM
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i have looked at your pics and they are so colorful.
They are beautiful.

i hope to find time to read your report
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 11:24 AM
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Oh, wow, colibri, your photos are beautiful, just gorgeous! The quetzals! And so many hummingbirds!
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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VG - I had so much fun on this trip, you can tell from the photos, but I decided not to burden you with all 1100!!
(By the way, did I end up MISSING yours from this summer??)

Thanks, Jet, I loved taking them!
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 02:02 PM
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Will look at the photos in a moment, just wanted to comment on your great birding experiences. Green macaws--how cool! Still on my "to see" list, along with a few others.

Savegre--Melvin has guided us before. It was very interesting this past summer while we were on our 4 day hike into Corcovado and staying at La Sirena Ranger Station, one evening a Tico group hiked in just before dinner. Later that evening, one of the fellows from that group was walking toward me, and as we met both of us locked eyes. I was thinking, "Who is that?!" Finally, it came to me. It was Melvin. I could see he recognized me, but was having more trouble figuring it out. What fun to run into someone we knew in such a remote location!

Always a small world, isn't it?

You've given a great report--now I'm off to the photos! Thanks for taking the time! And for liking our view. . .
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 02:11 PM
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NICE photos! You got some really good bird shots. Loved the sloth photos as well and so many others. Thanks!
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 03:21 PM
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Colibri- Very nice! Great hummer shots. The coral fungus looks exactly like fire coral. If you don't mind I have a few questions before my March 2010 trip to Savegre and Sarapiqui. After you turn off route 2 to San Gerardo de Dota ,is the road paved and in good condition? Not sure if I need a 4x4 or if a car will do. Did you eat any other places than the Savegre Lodge? Any recommendations? Will they allow you to wander by yourself at LaSelva after your tour? Thanks!
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 05:48 PM
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Wow, colibri, those are great photos of hummingbirds and quetzals! Sounds like a great trip. We love Selva Verde and Savegre both. Saw so much there. Had never heard of the Earth U, sounds so interesting. How did you come to go there?
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 06:33 PM
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Thanks for the wonderful report,and excellent photos,esp. of the hummers .Now if I can just experience a fraction of what you saw I will be a happy camper!I leave in a couple of days,and do have Marino booked.I hope to get some good video of the birdlife while at Savegre.
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 06:34 PM
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Love those pictures and the hummingbird pictures are really something.

Is shillmac's house almost completed !?( I am waiting ...the Imperial is going to go bad !)
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 07:02 PM
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Gorgeous photos! Did I read the properties right, you used a point and shoot and got this quality?
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Old Dec 7th, 2009, 07:38 PM
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Thanks all - glad you are enjoying the photos and my report! It was hard for me to choose which ones to post.

Millie - yep, these were all taken with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ5 camera with a 10x zoom on it. Very lightweight, great little travel camera, I'm pleased with it.

Percy - the only thing that is happening around Shillmac's lot is that the weeds are growing like crazy. That GTG isn't going to happen anytime soon, but Rancho Naturalista's owners are building another house down the road - 7,000 sq. feet and will be renting out two of the four bedrooms plus plan to hold weddings, parties, birding group presentations. We could have a GTG at Rancho and throw Shillmac a housewarming party!

Toon - we were supposed to have Marino, not sure what happened, but we had Melvin (his cousin)who is a great guide. One of my friends has been birding for over 30 years and was very pleased with Melvin, was spotting and ID'ing the birds as quickly as he did. We met Marino, the next day in the forest by the creek where the quetzals were hanging each out morning, a breeze to see them. I loved Savegre, hope you do, too.

Glover - part of my trip was an Eco-exchange through Friendship Force International who booked us at Earth University to learn about their various programs on sustainable agriculture, etc. It is an amazing place, founded in the 1980's - here's a short news clip and their website:

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/22425001...29102#24529102

http://www.earth.ac.cr/ing/index.php

Artiejay - Our driver (in a van) had no problem with the dirt/gravel road off the Inter-American Highway going down to Savegre. It took us maybe 25 minutes or a bit longer, gorgeous mountain scenery. It's lovely to drive out of the clouds as you descend into the valley. If you are interested in hummingbirds, stop by Paraiso del Quetzal (very well signposted) at the 70 km mark on the highway to see the fiery-throated hummers. It's run by the Serrano family, has several cabins, a restaurant, hiking trails to see quetzals and a deck to view the fiery-throated and magnificent hummers. My Heredia friends took me there in Feb. and it was a great intro for my birding friends this time. We didn't have a car so we only ate at Savegre, food was great, particularly the fresh trout from their creek. Most of the time we could order off the menu since there were so few people, but they serve buffet style when there are larger numbers. There are a few other lodges around, but there's really not much of a town, or if so, we missed it!

Also at La Selva, our guide stayed with us throughout our visit. I think (but am not positive) that if you stay at La Selva you have much more flexibility and freedom for hiking, but day visitors must have guides.
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 04:28 AM
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Beautiful photos, Colibri! Loved them all - scenery shots, birds, flowers, lovely Ticos - what a collection. Sounds like a great trip, full of fun and learning. Thanks for sharing!
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 05:57 AM
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Beautiful photos! What a great trip. Hey, that's the EXACT camera I have, not fair. I'll try harder on this trip.

(At the airport, getting ready to take off. Wish me big cat karma. At least tapir karma.)
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 06:22 AM
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Plumboy - Buen viaje y buena suerte en Corcovado!

Janenicole - it was probably my best trip ever!
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 06:39 AM
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Have a great trip, plum!
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 08:12 AM
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What a great trip colibri! You had some amazing experiences! I'm gonna check out the pictures when I have some more time...can't wait!
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 08:44 AM
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colibri -- Thanks for such a wonderful trip report! All of the places you went sound amazing...I'm going to take a look at the pics now. Thinking about trading up my camera before next trip so maybe this will push me along a bit. What we've planned so far is almost opposite of yours, mostly coastal locations, so I'm hoping I don't miss the inland areas too much...
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 10:56 AM
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I agree with all the others.....awesome pictures and very interesting itinerary. Nice to hear about some different places and I was intrigued by Earth University. Thanks for posting.
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Old Dec 8th, 2009, 01:46 PM
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What a wonderful report! Amazing to say the least ....all that you experienced. And the pictures were fantastic. Just beautiful! Thanks
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