Belizeitornot!
Jul 18th, 2010, 08:14 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We all assemble at the bar for the night hike; they have industrial strength head lamps for us to wear. Our guide Adrian notices that the birding couple is wearing shorts and flip flops and tells them that for safety's sake, they'll have to change. Bad thing is that they haven't packed long pants or enclosed shoes. They end up not letting them go which is disappointing, but understandable. Along for the ride with us are another couple and a family with three kids. After the porcupine incident, I'm looking forward to some good spotting. We've done a night hike in CR and seen raccoon, fox, sloth, etc. So off we go...
Adrian tells us to shine our headlamps in the grass, and reflected back are what look like hundreds of little shining sequins. The reflection off spider eyeballs! The kids really love that! We hike more - uphill again! WE hike, and hike, and hike, and you know what? We don't see anything! Adrian tells us that he can never guarantee sightings, and we understand that. I'll have to give the wildlife advantage to Costa Rica - seems like wildlife is way more abundant there. We still have fun though. Every one in a while, the kids will yell out that they've spotted something, and it will be a tiny toad or one time the littlest scorpion you've ever seen - about the size of a fingernail. The kids have eagle eyes. Adrian takes us down by a frog pond, and we do end up seeing lots of toads and frogs - sheep frogs and cane toads, and leopard frogs. We begin the long hike back, and we see a rice rat - it's actually kind of cute and fluffy. As we approach the cabins we see an opossum dart by and a few tarantulas. Total hours of hiking this day for us = 7, and we're pretty wiped out. But we managed to stay up until 11:00 - that feels like a big accomplishment in itself!
Adrian tells us to shine our headlamps in the grass, and reflected back are what look like hundreds of little shining sequins. The reflection off spider eyeballs! The kids really love that! We hike more - uphill again! WE hike, and hike, and hike, and you know what? We don't see anything! Adrian tells us that he can never guarantee sightings, and we understand that. I'll have to give the wildlife advantage to Costa Rica - seems like wildlife is way more abundant there. We still have fun though. Every one in a while, the kids will yell out that they've spotted something, and it will be a tiny toad or one time the littlest scorpion you've ever seen - about the size of a fingernail. The kids have eagle eyes. Adrian takes us down by a frog pond, and we do end up seeing lots of toads and frogs - sheep frogs and cane toads, and leopard frogs. We begin the long hike back, and we see a rice rat - it's actually kind of cute and fluffy. As we approach the cabins we see an opossum dart by and a few tarantulas. Total hours of hiking this day for us = 7, and we're pretty wiped out. But we managed to stay up until 11:00 - that feels like a big accomplishment in itself!
Jul 18th, 2010, 03:02 PM
#22
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, this brings me to our last day in the jungle. We had a great debate about which tour to do because we wanted to tube through the caves, do ATM, and also canoe at Barton Creek.
I wish we had more time, but it's almost time to move on to the beach portion of the trip. I really want to see some Mayan history, but we don't want an all day trip. Given that we spent 7 hours hiking the previous day, we decide on the Barton Creek canoe caving. The guides say it's beautiful and that we'll see some neat things along the way. Husband promises that we'll do ATM next trip, and I'm going to hold him to it. I know we'll go back to Belize.
We meet our guide, Miguel, who looks a little bit like a Belizean movie star. He's interesting and charming. I tell him that we really like to see wildlife so he says he'll keep an eye out for us. He spots an aracari, and we pull over to take pictures. This one has a nest in a telephone pole and little babies are poking their beaks out. It's nesting season. He also sees a big snake in the road, but it slithers off before we can take any pictures. He's a great guide and really interesting to talk to.
On the drive there, we end up behind an Amish horse and buggy. Then another one, and another one. I really want to take pictures, but Miguel says that you can't take pictures of them - it's just so interesting to see them, and again it's amazing to see all the diversity in this country. They're very friendly and tip their hats as we go by. Miguel says they drive about 16 miles on a bumpy road to take fruits and vegetables into town to sell. Several were already making their way back. One had a cart full of tiny piglets.
The road that we take goes right through their property, so we see men working in the fields, cows, oxen, etc. I think they're just as curious about us as we are about them. We wave as we go by, and they wave back. I imagine how hot they must get on those dusty roads, dressed in long pants and wearing long-sleeved shirts.
We arrive at Barton Creek, and the water in the creek is running high, so we park the car and decide to walk over the bridge - a rickety bridge that's really just a few planks spaced kind of far apart - again something you would never see in the U.S. but kind of fun. Before we come to the cave, we walk through lush green fields. It's gorgeous here, and I'm glad we came. This is a protected area, and there are bathrooms you can use before you go into the cave.
Miguel says that one person needs to paddle, one needs to be the photographer (me), and one needs to handle the spotlight (hubby). I got the easy job. It is gorgeous here. I really love it. There's a worker who helps us all into the canoe, and we set off with Mr. VG in front, then me, then Miguel. We can hear toucans calling around us. They sound like frogs croaking in the distance. There's a big battery in the boat that the spotlight will be hooked up to. The water is a beautiful shade of greenish blue and clear so that you can see fish swimming around. There are lush green vines dangling around us. We approach the cave, and it's kind of eerie because we don't have our spotlight on yet, and it's dark inside. Miguel has me hook up the light, and he paddles us in.
It's full of really cool rock formations, stalagmites and stalactites, and we see some bats. The walls sparkle like diamonds in some spots due to the calcite crystal formations. There's even a rock bridge that goes across the top of the cave. The cave opens up really high in some spots and then is very short and narrow in others. Miguel asks my husband to shine the light to the left, and the light lands on a human skull. This is a Mayan sacrificial site that was used for religious ceremonies. There are also bats flying around in the cave. The whole thing is very cool, eerie, spooky, interesting, and beautiful all wrapped up into one package. Miguel tells us that Mayans viewed these caves as a portal to the underworld. Skeletal remains of 28 people have been found here, most of them women and children.
We go further into the cave with Miguel directing on where to shine the light, and we also see pieces of old Mayan pottery that have become calcified along with the cave. We don't see any other people, and it's neat to have the place all to ourselves. Eventually we hear some voices from far away, and it's easy to imagine that there are Mayans in there or ghosts. Miguel narrates the entire trip and says that some people are bothered by tour guides taking people into the caves because they are still considered sacred to some people. I feel lucky that we got to see it. On the way out, Miguel says I can unplug the light, so we can be in total darkness. I detach the cable from the battery and the darkness envelops us. Just a really cool experience.
As we exit the cave, we pass other canoes that are making their way in. We start hiking back, and I spot a spider monkey. Wow, this is exciting, but then Miguel tells us not to get too excited because this one is on a chain. An adjacent property owner keeps it chained up. It's sad really, and I can tell it makes Miguel sad to see it. He says that people reported it, and the monkey was taken away, but the owner managed to get it back somehow. Why anyone would want to do that is beyond me. The monkey looks lonely.
We head back to Chaa and make it there just in time for lunch. Burger and fries for hubby and a big salad for me. Chaa makes all of their dressings homemade, and everything is really good. Since we're back with half a day left, we decide to visit the museum and blue morpho project. I'm also hoping that we'll get to see the howlers. The owners brought howlers to the area several years ago, and they've set up a couple of different troops. We keeps hearing them, but they remain elusive. People from the tent camp tell us that the howlers are keeping them awake all night long so I know they're nearby.
I wish we had more time, but it's almost time to move on to the beach portion of the trip. I really want to see some Mayan history, but we don't want an all day trip. Given that we spent 7 hours hiking the previous day, we decide on the Barton Creek canoe caving. The guides say it's beautiful and that we'll see some neat things along the way. Husband promises that we'll do ATM next trip, and I'm going to hold him to it. I know we'll go back to Belize.
We meet our guide, Miguel, who looks a little bit like a Belizean movie star. He's interesting and charming. I tell him that we really like to see wildlife so he says he'll keep an eye out for us. He spots an aracari, and we pull over to take pictures. This one has a nest in a telephone pole and little babies are poking their beaks out. It's nesting season. He also sees a big snake in the road, but it slithers off before we can take any pictures. He's a great guide and really interesting to talk to.
On the drive there, we end up behind an Amish horse and buggy. Then another one, and another one. I really want to take pictures, but Miguel says that you can't take pictures of them - it's just so interesting to see them, and again it's amazing to see all the diversity in this country. They're very friendly and tip their hats as we go by. Miguel says they drive about 16 miles on a bumpy road to take fruits and vegetables into town to sell. Several were already making their way back. One had a cart full of tiny piglets.
The road that we take goes right through their property, so we see men working in the fields, cows, oxen, etc. I think they're just as curious about us as we are about them. We wave as we go by, and they wave back. I imagine how hot they must get on those dusty roads, dressed in long pants and wearing long-sleeved shirts.
We arrive at Barton Creek, and the water in the creek is running high, so we park the car and decide to walk over the bridge - a rickety bridge that's really just a few planks spaced kind of far apart - again something you would never see in the U.S. but kind of fun. Before we come to the cave, we walk through lush green fields. It's gorgeous here, and I'm glad we came. This is a protected area, and there are bathrooms you can use before you go into the cave.
Miguel says that one person needs to paddle, one needs to be the photographer (me), and one needs to handle the spotlight (hubby). I got the easy job. It is gorgeous here. I really love it. There's a worker who helps us all into the canoe, and we set off with Mr. VG in front, then me, then Miguel. We can hear toucans calling around us. They sound like frogs croaking in the distance. There's a big battery in the boat that the spotlight will be hooked up to. The water is a beautiful shade of greenish blue and clear so that you can see fish swimming around. There are lush green vines dangling around us. We approach the cave, and it's kind of eerie because we don't have our spotlight on yet, and it's dark inside. Miguel has me hook up the light, and he paddles us in.
It's full of really cool rock formations, stalagmites and stalactites, and we see some bats. The walls sparkle like diamonds in some spots due to the calcite crystal formations. There's even a rock bridge that goes across the top of the cave. The cave opens up really high in some spots and then is very short and narrow in others. Miguel asks my husband to shine the light to the left, and the light lands on a human skull. This is a Mayan sacrificial site that was used for religious ceremonies. There are also bats flying around in the cave. The whole thing is very cool, eerie, spooky, interesting, and beautiful all wrapped up into one package. Miguel tells us that Mayans viewed these caves as a portal to the underworld. Skeletal remains of 28 people have been found here, most of them women and children.
We go further into the cave with Miguel directing on where to shine the light, and we also see pieces of old Mayan pottery that have become calcified along with the cave. We don't see any other people, and it's neat to have the place all to ourselves. Eventually we hear some voices from far away, and it's easy to imagine that there are Mayans in there or ghosts. Miguel narrates the entire trip and says that some people are bothered by tour guides taking people into the caves because they are still considered sacred to some people. I feel lucky that we got to see it. On the way out, Miguel says I can unplug the light, so we can be in total darkness. I detach the cable from the battery and the darkness envelops us. Just a really cool experience.
As we exit the cave, we pass other canoes that are making their way in. We start hiking back, and I spot a spider monkey. Wow, this is exciting, but then Miguel tells us not to get too excited because this one is on a chain. An adjacent property owner keeps it chained up. It's sad really, and I can tell it makes Miguel sad to see it. He says that people reported it, and the monkey was taken away, but the owner managed to get it back somehow. Why anyone would want to do that is beyond me. The monkey looks lonely.
We head back to Chaa and make it there just in time for lunch. Burger and fries for hubby and a big salad for me. Chaa makes all of their dressings homemade, and everything is really good. Since we're back with half a day left, we decide to visit the museum and blue morpho project. I'm also hoping that we'll get to see the howlers. The owners brought howlers to the area several years ago, and they've set up a couple of different troops. We keeps hearing them, but they remain elusive. People from the tent camp tell us that the howlers are keeping them awake all night long so I know they're nearby.
Jul 18th, 2010, 04:55 PM
#23
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How fantsastic to relive the trip into the caves, from the Menonites to the canoes and unplugging the light. It was an absolutely amazing experience eight years ago and sounds like it is still as magical. I am so looking forward to the rest of your trip. My husband and I honeymooned at Victoria House fourteen years ago and have made a few return trips since then. I am always looking to go back but especially to take our daughter there.
Jul 18th, 2010, 06:22 PM
#26
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We really enjoyed Barton Creek too. That monkey made me so sad, I wouldn't even walk over to it. Broke my heart. It's funny because our hometown is right smack in the middle of Pennsylvania Amish country and we were so surprised to see Amish and Mennonite people in Belize! And they have their pictures taken ALL the time here by tourists - you're supposed to ask them. We had an addition put on our house last summer and nearly all the contractors were Amish and with all of their lack of technology, wouldn't you know they all had their cell phones 
But I couldn't help myself from snapping a picture of the Amish roofers taking their lunchbreak, sitting on the the lawnchairs they'd brought with them, under one of our trees, reading the newspaper...it was classic.
Anyway - your time at Chaa Creek sounds wonderful and yes, you have a reason to go back for ATM! You'll LOVE it!
But I couldn't help myself from snapping a picture of the Amish roofers taking their lunchbreak, sitting on the the lawnchairs they'd brought with them, under one of our trees, reading the newspaper...it was classic.Anyway - your time at Chaa Creek sounds wonderful and yes, you have a reason to go back for ATM! You'll LOVE it!
Jul 18th, 2010, 06:38 PM
#27
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Enjoying your report so far! Did you keep a journal while you were there? I always say I will, but never do. Loving all the details. Hoping to take daughter to Belize/Guatemala late August next year (shorter "adult trip" to CR early Summer) so taking lots of notes.
Jul 18th, 2010, 06:59 PM
#28
Following and enjoying it all
Jul 18th, 2010, 07:04 PM
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
odie, magical is a great way to describe it, and I can't imagine a better place than Belize for a honeymoon. If I could take up permanent residence in Victoria House, I would do it in a heartbeat. Thanks, sharie for slogging through my report!
Shell, I've never seen Amish people before. They are really fascinating to me. I am compulsive with the camera, and it was so hard for me not to take their pictures. I came home and googled it, and it said they are not allowed to POSE for pictures, so technically I think maybe I could have done it, but I didn't want to offend them. I think you're the one that turned me onto Barton Creek Cave - wow, it was so cool!
hip, I didn't take a journal. I made notes on my Chaa Creek note pad! hopeful, I enjoy your trip reports too.
I think if someone had plunked me down between Chang's Grocery and an Amish cart and had me guess where I am, Belize probably would have been the last thing on my mind. What a neat cultural mix.
Shell, I've never seen Amish people before. They are really fascinating to me. I am compulsive with the camera, and it was so hard for me not to take their pictures. I came home and googled it, and it said they are not allowed to POSE for pictures, so technically I think maybe I could have done it, but I didn't want to offend them. I think you're the one that turned me onto Barton Creek Cave - wow, it was so cool!
hip, I didn't take a journal. I made notes on my Chaa Creek note pad! hopeful, I enjoy your trip reports too.
I think if someone had plunked me down between Chang's Grocery and an Amish cart and had me guess where I am, Belize probably would have been the last thing on my mind. What a neat cultural mix.
Jul 18th, 2010, 07:59 PM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, Percy!
After lunch we head off to the natural history museum and blue morpho farm that they have on the property. They are both uphill as usual! There wasn't a guide at the museum when we were there, and I think we would have gotten more out of it if there had been, but there are some neat artifacts and cool info. on the howler project. There are also some animal skulls, snakes in jars, and a display that looks like a mayan hut. I really like the display showing all the different bird's nests, including a tiny hummingbird one. A guide comes in and says that they are about to start the butterfly tour, so we head over to the little butterfly shelter that's next door. It's one of those double-doored buildings designed to prevent the butterflies from escaping. It's pretty small, but the cool thing is that they show you the entire life cycle of the butterflies. They show you the eggs, and then tiny caterpillars, bigger caterpillars, pupas, etc. The eggs are on leaves that contain cyanide, so when the caterpillars eat the leaves, they pick up some of the poison and become toxic to birds. It's all really interesting. As we walk through the little shelter, one lands on my husband's red shirt, and another one lands on top of a girl's hat. Despite our best efforts, one escapes while we're all exiting. It flits off happily, looking like it's enjoying the freedom of the great outdoors. And the guide says, "A bird's gonna get that one." So much for freedom!
We hike back and go to the conference center to check our e-mail. There are two computers you can use if you need them. And then we head off to dinner. Tonight is blackened tilapia and chicken with chimichurri sauce served with roasted potatoes. I get the drink special of the day which is a rum and cranberry midori punch. Tully, I thought of you since it's midori! There's some kind of pudding for dessert, but I'm intrigued by something I saw on the lunch menu, and ask if I can have the fresh fruit sorbet instead. They run off to the kitchen to check and come back with delicious papaya sorbet - wow, it's so good! We should have been eating this all along!
We go back to the cabin to relax and eventually drift off to sleep. Howlers start going off at 1:00 a.m. and awaken me. I am determined to see them before we leave!
After lunch we head off to the natural history museum and blue morpho farm that they have on the property. They are both uphill as usual! There wasn't a guide at the museum when we were there, and I think we would have gotten more out of it if there had been, but there are some neat artifacts and cool info. on the howler project. There are also some animal skulls, snakes in jars, and a display that looks like a mayan hut. I really like the display showing all the different bird's nests, including a tiny hummingbird one. A guide comes in and says that they are about to start the butterfly tour, so we head over to the little butterfly shelter that's next door. It's one of those double-doored buildings designed to prevent the butterflies from escaping. It's pretty small, but the cool thing is that they show you the entire life cycle of the butterflies. They show you the eggs, and then tiny caterpillars, bigger caterpillars, pupas, etc. The eggs are on leaves that contain cyanide, so when the caterpillars eat the leaves, they pick up some of the poison and become toxic to birds. It's all really interesting. As we walk through the little shelter, one lands on my husband's red shirt, and another one lands on top of a girl's hat. Despite our best efforts, one escapes while we're all exiting. It flits off happily, looking like it's enjoying the freedom of the great outdoors. And the guide says, "A bird's gonna get that one." So much for freedom!
We hike back and go to the conference center to check our e-mail. There are two computers you can use if you need them. And then we head off to dinner. Tonight is blackened tilapia and chicken with chimichurri sauce served with roasted potatoes. I get the drink special of the day which is a rum and cranberry midori punch. Tully, I thought of you since it's midori! There's some kind of pudding for dessert, but I'm intrigued by something I saw on the lunch menu, and ask if I can have the fresh fruit sorbet instead. They run off to the kitchen to check and come back with delicious papaya sorbet - wow, it's so good! We should have been eating this all along!
We go back to the cabin to relax and eventually drift off to sleep. Howlers start going off at 1:00 a.m. and awaken me. I am determined to see them before we leave!
Jul 19th, 2010, 04:43 AM
#31
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VG, your report is so enjoyable to read, and helpful, too. You do such a nice job of describing everything from the environment to the food to the activities. I'm really getting a "feel" for what a trip to Belize would be like. It's on my list for someday. Happy to hear that you enjoyed your trip!
Jul 19th, 2010, 08:48 AM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, jn - we really can't recommend it enough. I started reading trip reports and realized I've never read a bad one about Belize. Thanks for reading though all of mine. I hope you make it there someday. I think you'd really love it.
Jul 19th, 2010, 03:03 PM
#34
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm really enjoying your report, VG! I always like reading about your adventures.
Belize has been on my 'to do' list for awhile, and it sounds like I really ought to move it closer to the top. It was a prime contender a few years ago, but I ended up going to Costa Rica instead (for my very first trip) because the airfare was much cheaper. How did the trip costs stack up overall in comparison to CR?
Belize has been on my 'to do' list for awhile, and it sounds like I really ought to move it closer to the top. It was a prime contender a few years ago, but I ended up going to Costa Rica instead (for my very first trip) because the airfare was much cheaper. How did the trip costs stack up overall in comparison to CR?
Jul 19th, 2010, 04:33 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, c! Belize is more expensive. We travel using miles, so that wasn't a huge factor for us, but for tours and food and everything, Belize seemed pricier to us. We stayed at some of the more expensive places, but even Çhaa has a more affordable alternative. They have a tent camp that's popular called the Macal River Camp, and you can still use the Chaa grounds if you stay there - it's just cheaper than getting one of the cabins. We met people that were staying there, and they really liked it.
A lot of the tours are set up like they are at BdC - if you have more people going on the tour, then the cost drops. A big part of the price is the transportation. We used Luxury Link to save money, and I was afraid we might get a bad cabin or view or something, but Chaa really came through with us and gave us everything we requested which I think is awesome. We wanted a king-sized bed, private patio, nice view, and they said they would do their best, and they did. We got it all.
If you like CR, you'll like Belize. Belize is easier to get around, the roads are in better shape, I thought the food was better, and things are in English which is both good and bad I guess. I kind of missed practicing my Spanish, but everyone speaking English and the signage being in English sure is easier. We saw a lot more wildlife in CR, but beaches and snorkeling and ruins are better in Belize. CR has the volcanoes which earns it big points with me. It's hard to choose a favorite; I think they're both pretty terrific. I also really love the waterfalls in CR; Belize may have some, but we didn't see them in the areas we went to.
A lot of the tours are set up like they are at BdC - if you have more people going on the tour, then the cost drops. A big part of the price is the transportation. We used Luxury Link to save money, and I was afraid we might get a bad cabin or view or something, but Chaa really came through with us and gave us everything we requested which I think is awesome. We wanted a king-sized bed, private patio, nice view, and they said they would do their best, and they did. We got it all.
If you like CR, you'll like Belize. Belize is easier to get around, the roads are in better shape, I thought the food was better, and things are in English which is both good and bad I guess. I kind of missed practicing my Spanish, but everyone speaking English and the signage being in English sure is easier. We saw a lot more wildlife in CR, but beaches and snorkeling and ruins are better in Belize. CR has the volcanoes which earns it big points with me. It's hard to choose a favorite; I think they're both pretty terrific. I also really love the waterfalls in CR; Belize may have some, but we didn't see them in the areas we went to.
Jul 19th, 2010, 06:12 PM
#36
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 5 - Today we get to enjoy a real sit-down breakfast. I like the breakfast in a box, but this seems like a real treat. We end up ordering eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, and juice. I'm excited to see that homemade mango jam again. The bacon is huge, looks more like ham than bacon - not sure if this is Belizean or just at this lodge, but it tastes good.
Today we're heading off to Ambergris, so we want to take one last look around and shoot a few photos, check out the gift shop, etc. So, lo and behold what do I see? A howler monkey! He waited until our last day, but he showed up! He doesn't seem inclined to pose for photos and is sitting high in a tree, so I get a couple of shots that look like a big black ball of fur, but at least we got to see him!
We go to check out, and it's an easy process. We'll be going through the Municipal airport this time because the flight was cheaper, and I ask the concierge if there's a gift shop or place to eat lunch there. He looks amused and says, "I would be pleasantly surprised." I don't get my hopes up.
I asked one of the guides if Belize has an army, and unlike Costa Rica they do. We ask when the last time they were at war was, and the answer is never. Sounds like a good army to be in!
We meet our driver, Alexi, and just like the other guides and drivers, he's smart and interesting to talk to. We talk politics, culture, religion, etc. We pass a few interesting things on the road. One is a joint venture between Belize and Taiwan to study the genetic engineering of plants. Rumor has it that they are trying to develop a square watermelon! We also see a number of basketball courts. Basketball seems popular here. A lot of Belizeans follow the NBA. The Chicago Bulls seem to be popular.
The drive takes a couple of hours, and eventually we end up back in Belize City. We pass through a pretty rough looking area, and Alexi says that you probably wouldn't want to walk on this street at night. It's a big change from the jungle environment. Looks very urban.
He drops us off at the airport, and it's teeny. We get our bags unloaded, and enter the small building. It's basically just a counter and some chairs where you wait for your flights. There are also restrooms, which is a step up from some of the CR airports I've seen. No gift shop or restaurant for sure though! My husband goes up to the counter, and tells them our names, and the clerk says, "Let me get your boarding passes." At which point, we are each handed a laminated piece of paper that says "Boarding Pass" - lol! No time, gate, number, etc. Just Boarding Pass!
We had asked Victoria House to book our flights for us, and we notice on our paperwork that instead of the 1:00 flight back that they told us they would book, they have us on a 9:00 a.m. flight the last day. It's on Tropic Air, so we decide to clear it up with the clerk, so there's no hassle the last day. Our flight back to the states isn't until 4:00, and we don't want to spend the day at the airport after flying back from the island. He says he can't help us and that we should talk to Tropic Air. Okay, but we're at Tropic Air. No help, so we figure we'll just work it out with Victoria House once we get there.
We sit down to relax, and then they say that we're boarding the plane. It's really early, but I guess everyone is there, so we hand them our passes and board. They seat us by weight so big guys go in the front and kids in the back. There are about 13 people on the plane. One of the drivers had told me to sit on the right side to get good photos, and luckily I end up on the right hand side. We take off and pretty soon we're over some amazingly beautiful water - greenish blue and gorgeous. Lots of little colorful houses appear below us. We're getting excited to get our first glimpse of Ambergris. And to see the famous Victoria House. And to get in the air conditioning! After a quick 15 minute flight, the plane lands and we're off on a new adventure!
Today we're heading off to Ambergris, so we want to take one last look around and shoot a few photos, check out the gift shop, etc. So, lo and behold what do I see? A howler monkey! He waited until our last day, but he showed up! He doesn't seem inclined to pose for photos and is sitting high in a tree, so I get a couple of shots that look like a big black ball of fur, but at least we got to see him!
We go to check out, and it's an easy process. We'll be going through the Municipal airport this time because the flight was cheaper, and I ask the concierge if there's a gift shop or place to eat lunch there. He looks amused and says, "I would be pleasantly surprised." I don't get my hopes up.
I asked one of the guides if Belize has an army, and unlike Costa Rica they do. We ask when the last time they were at war was, and the answer is never. Sounds like a good army to be in!
We meet our driver, Alexi, and just like the other guides and drivers, he's smart and interesting to talk to. We talk politics, culture, religion, etc. We pass a few interesting things on the road. One is a joint venture between Belize and Taiwan to study the genetic engineering of plants. Rumor has it that they are trying to develop a square watermelon! We also see a number of basketball courts. Basketball seems popular here. A lot of Belizeans follow the NBA. The Chicago Bulls seem to be popular.
The drive takes a couple of hours, and eventually we end up back in Belize City. We pass through a pretty rough looking area, and Alexi says that you probably wouldn't want to walk on this street at night. It's a big change from the jungle environment. Looks very urban.
He drops us off at the airport, and it's teeny. We get our bags unloaded, and enter the small building. It's basically just a counter and some chairs where you wait for your flights. There are also restrooms, which is a step up from some of the CR airports I've seen. No gift shop or restaurant for sure though! My husband goes up to the counter, and tells them our names, and the clerk says, "Let me get your boarding passes." At which point, we are each handed a laminated piece of paper that says "Boarding Pass" - lol! No time, gate, number, etc. Just Boarding Pass!
We had asked Victoria House to book our flights for us, and we notice on our paperwork that instead of the 1:00 flight back that they told us they would book, they have us on a 9:00 a.m. flight the last day. It's on Tropic Air, so we decide to clear it up with the clerk, so there's no hassle the last day. Our flight back to the states isn't until 4:00, and we don't want to spend the day at the airport after flying back from the island. He says he can't help us and that we should talk to Tropic Air. Okay, but we're at Tropic Air. No help, so we figure we'll just work it out with Victoria House once we get there.
We sit down to relax, and then they say that we're boarding the plane. It's really early, but I guess everyone is there, so we hand them our passes and board. They seat us by weight so big guys go in the front and kids in the back. There are about 13 people on the plane. One of the drivers had told me to sit on the right side to get good photos, and luckily I end up on the right hand side. We take off and pretty soon we're over some amazingly beautiful water - greenish blue and gorgeous. Lots of little colorful houses appear below us. We're getting excited to get our first glimpse of Ambergris. And to see the famous Victoria House. And to get in the air conditioning! After a quick 15 minute flight, the plane lands and we're off on a new adventure!
Jul 19th, 2010, 07:41 PM
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So the Tropic Air Airport is actually pretty nice. They get our bags unloaded quickly and we're taken to an outside area to pick the bags up. It's funny because they unload them from the cart right in front of you, but there's a rope between you and your bags, and you're not allowed to cross it. Meanwhile pushy drivers are all trying to get us to get into their taxis. I should mention that Tropic Air doesn't have the strict luggage restrictions that Sansa and Nature Air have, so we've gone a little nuts with the baggage. I have a big rolling bag, as does my husband, and we each have a smaller bag and a carry on. Once we get the luggage, we're sort of bogged down, and we can't find our Victoria House driver.
We're standing there with all our bags, and the taxi drivers are hounding us, and our driver just isn't there. It's kind of freaky because the drivers are pushy, and the taxis don't look like taxis; they look kind of like creepy vans that have seen better days. How do we know who has a legit taxi? It's stressful because we were counting on the pickup, and now we're not sure if they're coming to get us. The drivers are all yelling, "taxi, taxi, taxi" but we tell them VH is on the way to get us. Finally one guy just picks up our luggage and puts it in his van and says, "Get in the van and come with me." Okay, we don't really have a choice, so we get in. I ask the guy a few questions to see if he's a real taxi driver, and my quiz consists of questions about good places to eat breakfast, shop, etc. He answers them all, so I feel like we're probably not being led off to our doom. He tells us that VH will reimburse him, so we don't have to pay him. He's actually pretty nice.
Here's my hint to you - the vans with green license plates are taxis. I wish we had known that from the start. We drive a couple of miles through town, and it's a cute little place - lots of restaurants and little shops, very colorful. I like it already. We pull up in front of Victoria House, and it's beautiful. Pretty hibiscus blooming everywhere and right on the beach. It seems very quiet and private. We go to reception and tell them that no one picked us up; they check and our name is on the list, but they just neglected to get us. No one says they're sorry or offers much of an explanation. I don't know if it's cultural or just this hotel, but they don't seem to want to deal with it, so they give us the room key and someone leads us off to our room.
We get the to room; ours is called a Plantation Room, and it's gorgeous. Decorated in dark woods with creamy fabrics and a big gauzy canopy over the bed. Pictures of palm trees; it looks very Caribbean. We head out to the private balcony, and get a load of the view - white, white sand, lots of palm trees, the pool. I'm starting to feel less annoyed. There are two nice robes on the bed and hibiscus flowers everywhere. Also a little box of chocolates and best of all two free drink tickets. Okay, I can get over it, and we head off to the dive shop and to lunch!
We're standing there with all our bags, and the taxi drivers are hounding us, and our driver just isn't there. It's kind of freaky because the drivers are pushy, and the taxis don't look like taxis; they look kind of like creepy vans that have seen better days. How do we know who has a legit taxi? It's stressful because we were counting on the pickup, and now we're not sure if they're coming to get us. The drivers are all yelling, "taxi, taxi, taxi" but we tell them VH is on the way to get us. Finally one guy just picks up our luggage and puts it in his van and says, "Get in the van and come with me." Okay, we don't really have a choice, so we get in. I ask the guy a few questions to see if he's a real taxi driver, and my quiz consists of questions about good places to eat breakfast, shop, etc. He answers them all, so I feel like we're probably not being led off to our doom. He tells us that VH will reimburse him, so we don't have to pay him. He's actually pretty nice.
Here's my hint to you - the vans with green license plates are taxis. I wish we had known that from the start. We drive a couple of miles through town, and it's a cute little place - lots of restaurants and little shops, very colorful. I like it already. We pull up in front of Victoria House, and it's beautiful. Pretty hibiscus blooming everywhere and right on the beach. It seems very quiet and private. We go to reception and tell them that no one picked us up; they check and our name is on the list, but they just neglected to get us. No one says they're sorry or offers much of an explanation. I don't know if it's cultural or just this hotel, but they don't seem to want to deal with it, so they give us the room key and someone leads us off to our room.
We get the to room; ours is called a Plantation Room, and it's gorgeous. Decorated in dark woods with creamy fabrics and a big gauzy canopy over the bed. Pictures of palm trees; it looks very Caribbean. We head out to the private balcony, and get a load of the view - white, white sand, lots of palm trees, the pool. I'm starting to feel less annoyed. There are two nice robes on the bed and hibiscus flowers everywhere. Also a little box of chocolates and best of all two free drink tickets. Okay, I can get over it, and we head off to the dive shop and to lunch!
Jul 20th, 2010, 04:49 AM
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 24,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hadn't realized that VH has its own snorkel and dive shop where you can book tours. This made things pretty easy for us. I know we want to go to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley, so we reserve that for the next day. We just tell them our room number, and our reservation goes up on the board. They tell us that they really limit the size of their tours - around 6-8 people max. We can't wait! The dive shop is a little straw palapa just sitting out over the water on a long pier. It really looks like something out of a Corona commercial - white sand, gorgeous teal water, palapas, nearby a hammock swings in the breeze. I really love this beach. While I'm normally a go, go, go girl, I think I could just sit in this spot for 3 days and be happy! The sand is powdery and soft.
We decide to go to the bar for lunch, wanting to try something with a more local flavor, husband gets stewed chicken with rice, and I get a lobster po-boy. Both are great. We sit out on the patio and enjoy the view. The portions are huge, so we get the leftovers boxed up to take back to our room since it has a minifrig. A minifrig and air conditioning seem like huge luxuries after a few days in the jungle!
http://www.victoria-house.com/
We decide to go to the bar for lunch, wanting to try something with a more local flavor, husband gets stewed chicken with rice, and I get a lobster po-boy. Both are great. We sit out on the patio and enjoy the view. The portions are huge, so we get the leftovers boxed up to take back to our room since it has a minifrig. A minifrig and air conditioning seem like huge luxuries after a few days in the jungle!
http://www.victoria-house.com/
Jul 20th, 2010, 05:42 AM
#39
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am thoroughly enjoying your trip report! We are headed to Belize next March for 9 days and are planning to stay at both Chaa Creek and Victoria House (though I haven't booked them yet) so this has been very helpful! Can't wait to read more...
