BELIZE W/ TEENS: DARING FAMILY SURVIVES EXTREME CAVES AND BRUTAL HEAT
Apr 30th, 2009, 06:11 PM
#21
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Yes, now that you mention it, I do remember the bumper stickers.
Thanks for the gentle reminder to finish the report. I have already received a penalty for lateness on the Asia board and I wouldn't want it to happen here too.
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PLACENCIA
A Caves Branch guide/driver took us on the Hummingbird Highway to Dangriga (1 hour away) to catch our 15-minute flight on Tropic Air to Placencia. We had tried to arrange a ride all the way to Placencia, but CB told us the road was terrible and we'd be better off flying. Counting the inevitable flight delay, it probably took the same amt. of time to fly as it would have to drive, but it was an easy (though more pricey) transfer. Passed through a very scenic, quasi-mountainous part of the country (but not in the same league as Costa Rica or Guatemala).
The flight was in a 14-seater...Plane stopped at the little shack where we waited to let some people off and pick us up. Jumped aboard and 15 minutes later we were in Placencia, expecting a reprieve from the extreme 105 degree heat.
But sadly, even though we were at the sea, it seemed even hotter.
NEXT: WE REJECT OUR VACATION RENTAL AND FIND A RESORT
Thanks for the gentle reminder to finish the report. I have already received a penalty for lateness on the Asia board and I wouldn't want it to happen here too.
------------
PLACENCIA
A Caves Branch guide/driver took us on the Hummingbird Highway to Dangriga (1 hour away) to catch our 15-minute flight on Tropic Air to Placencia. We had tried to arrange a ride all the way to Placencia, but CB told us the road was terrible and we'd be better off flying. Counting the inevitable flight delay, it probably took the same amt. of time to fly as it would have to drive, but it was an easy (though more pricey) transfer. Passed through a very scenic, quasi-mountainous part of the country (but not in the same league as Costa Rica or Guatemala).
The flight was in a 14-seater...Plane stopped at the little shack where we waited to let some people off and pick us up. Jumped aboard and 15 minutes later we were in Placencia, expecting a reprieve from the extreme 105 degree heat.
But sadly, even though we were at the sea, it seemed even hotter.
NEXT: WE REJECT OUR VACATION RENTAL AND FIND A RESORT
May 2nd, 2009, 10:28 PM
#23
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PLACENCIA
Belize's "dirty little secret" is that there really aren't any decent beaches in the Caribbean or Mexican sense. That’s why all the brochures show a picturesque thatched hut on a long pier instead of the white sand beach of your dreams. In Belize it’s all about the reef rather than the sand...you won't see that fabulous turquoise water found in other top diving/snorkeling spots. So Placencia might be one of Belize's top beaches, but that’s not saying much. Still, we had a great time, once we found a place to stay.
OUR VACATION RENTAL
We had left a deposit on a cool-looking beachfront rental highly rated on tripadvisor. Envisioned a non-resorty vacation, walks into town, mingling with the locals. But the place was STIFLING and the coarse sand in front of our rental was covered with trash (as were most of the beaches in Placencia). So we dropped off our luggage, checked out the colorful, quirky town, had some much-recommend Tutti Frutti gelato and hopped in a taxi to find a room with AC and a clean beach.
- CHABIL MAR – Condo resort, walking distance to town w/lovely infinity pool (possibly two), a nice beach and large 2-bedroom condos, for which we were offered an extremely reasonable "walk-in" rate plus a free half-day use of a golf cart. But the place seemed dead, had no restaurant (just room and pool-side service) and the rooms were somewhat musty. And many of the bedrooms had views of Placencia’s ubiquitous half-completed condo construction.
- TURTLE INN - Coppola's place is gorgeous w/ a Balinese aesthetic - perhaps too romantic and honeymoonish for our family, although there were quite a few kids around the idyllic pool. But there were no suites available and two rooms would have been super pricy, even with the walk-in discount. And the dealbreaker was no A/C.
ROBERT'S GROVE - About 3 miles from town but other than that, everything was perfect for us, especially the great walk-in deal we were offered. Understated, laid-back Caribbean vibe, several pools, private marina, kayaks, two restaurants, tennis court (which was too hot to use). We had a beachfront 1 bedroom suite - master + living room + kitchenette + huge balcony with hammocks and ocean view - a little dark, but very clean, and stylishly furnished with wicker and ethnic fabrics. A/C was brilliant and the boys were happy to have a t.v. for the NCAA finals. Not as chic as Turtle Inn, but more relaxed. Fellow guests were an interesting mix of Americans, Canadians, and
Guatemalan VIPs who had come in their own yachts. Dozens of kids and teens.
BOTTOM LINE - Although we probably wouldn’t return to Placencia as a destination unto itself if we weren’t also doing the jungle, I would have been perfectly happy to spend a full week sitting on the beach playing board games and reading books at Robert’s Grove. We forfeited our deposit at our rental and never looked back.
-
NEXT: PLACENCIA ACTIVITIES
Belize's "dirty little secret" is that there really aren't any decent beaches in the Caribbean or Mexican sense. That’s why all the brochures show a picturesque thatched hut on a long pier instead of the white sand beach of your dreams. In Belize it’s all about the reef rather than the sand...you won't see that fabulous turquoise water found in other top diving/snorkeling spots. So Placencia might be one of Belize's top beaches, but that’s not saying much. Still, we had a great time, once we found a place to stay.
OUR VACATION RENTAL
We had left a deposit on a cool-looking beachfront rental highly rated on tripadvisor. Envisioned a non-resorty vacation, walks into town, mingling with the locals. But the place was STIFLING and the coarse sand in front of our rental was covered with trash (as were most of the beaches in Placencia). So we dropped off our luggage, checked out the colorful, quirky town, had some much-recommend Tutti Frutti gelato and hopped in a taxi to find a room with AC and a clean beach.
- CHABIL MAR – Condo resort, walking distance to town w/lovely infinity pool (possibly two), a nice beach and large 2-bedroom condos, for which we were offered an extremely reasonable "walk-in" rate plus a free half-day use of a golf cart. But the place seemed dead, had no restaurant (just room and pool-side service) and the rooms were somewhat musty. And many of the bedrooms had views of Placencia’s ubiquitous half-completed condo construction.
- TURTLE INN - Coppola's place is gorgeous w/ a Balinese aesthetic - perhaps too romantic and honeymoonish for our family, although there were quite a few kids around the idyllic pool. But there were no suites available and two rooms would have been super pricy, even with the walk-in discount. And the dealbreaker was no A/C.
ROBERT'S GROVE - About 3 miles from town but other than that, everything was perfect for us, especially the great walk-in deal we were offered. Understated, laid-back Caribbean vibe, several pools, private marina, kayaks, two restaurants, tennis court (which was too hot to use). We had a beachfront 1 bedroom suite - master + living room + kitchenette + huge balcony with hammocks and ocean view - a little dark, but very clean, and stylishly furnished with wicker and ethnic fabrics. A/C was brilliant and the boys were happy to have a t.v. for the NCAA finals. Not as chic as Turtle Inn, but more relaxed. Fellow guests were an interesting mix of Americans, Canadians, and
Guatemalan VIPs who had come in their own yachts. Dozens of kids and teens.
BOTTOM LINE - Although we probably wouldn’t return to Placencia as a destination unto itself if we weren’t also doing the jungle, I would have been perfectly happy to spend a full week sitting on the beach playing board games and reading books at Robert’s Grove. We forfeited our deposit at our rental and never looked back.
-
NEXT: PLACENCIA ACTIVITIES
May 3rd, 2009, 06:02 AM
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Thanks for continuing - it's hard to wait in between! I enjoy your writing style and all the DETAIL.
The only place in Belize we've seen wonderful beaches with palm trees and turquoise water is on Glover's Atoll. It's the water color I crave more than the beach itself (and, of course, great snorkeling from shore). I wouldn't have considered the no beach thing a secret, though. Did you get through your trip research without knowing that? Bad on us, then.
The only place in Belize we've seen wonderful beaches with palm trees and turquoise water is on Glover's Atoll. It's the water color I crave more than the beach itself (and, of course, great snorkeling from shore). I wouldn't have considered the no beach thing a secret, though. Did you get through your trip research without knowing that? Bad on us, then.
May 3rd, 2009, 07:54 AM
#25
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Thanks, hopefulist. We did know about the no-beach thing and all of your advice was spot-on, but it does hit you when you get there...When sitting on the shore looking out at the Caribbean, you crave something more like Glover's Atoll. Another family we met was headed there, but sadly they had no televisions for the NCAA finals.
May 3rd, 2009, 11:31 AM
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We usually avoid televisions but spent our last week in Honduras last summer with a nice ac room and cable tv so we could watch the Olympics - sweet!
Please don't make us wait too long for the next installment.
Please don't make us wait too long for the next installment.
May 3rd, 2009, 01:03 PM
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my boys would have insisted on a TV for the finals as well! When we were in Cairo, we thought we were in heaven when we could catch our Redskins beat the Cowboys.
Too bad about the rental - but it sounds as if you recovered nicely.
Too bad about the rental - but it sounds as if you recovered nicely.
May 3rd, 2009, 02:48 PM
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I'm really enjoying your trip report! Glad you made the best of the situation in Placencia. The cayes do have white sand/turquoise water though in many cases the beaches are still shallow. We've stayed in Dangriga, Placencia and visited Hopkins and probably wouldn't choose a mainland beach destination unless we wanted easy access to inland activities.
May 9th, 2009, 10:58 AM
#29
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PLACENCIA ACTIVITIES:
SNORKELING - Signed up for a Robert's Grove tour, which leaves from their own dock across the road. They decide where you're going based on weather conditions, and you don't find out the destination until departure time. We went to Laughing Bird Caye - a Natl. Park/World Heritage Site about 11 miles from Placencia - a smooth, short ride...nice variety of marine life, but not undiscovered - There were at least 4-5 other boats there. We had hoped to go to one of Robert's Grove's private islands or to the Barrier Reef itself, but Laughing Bird was just fine...and a good workout because our guide swam REALLY fast. Saw rays and lobsters, but no nurse sharks or whale sharks (which I think we missed by one day). Lunch was excellent...especially compared to the cave lunches at Caves Branch.
PLACENCIA - Some potential shopping possibilities, but sadly too hot to be fun. Robert's Groves had bicycles. Road is bumpy, but would have been a fun VERY early morning excursion, before the heat.
WENDY'S CREOLE RESTAURANT - Guidebooks rave about this dive in town. Worth a visit, but not a must-do.
TURTLE INN - Had an very good authentic Italian pizza dinner there...supposedly Francis' recipa...all you can eat (!)
MORE STOMACH ISSUES - Older Son came down with unpleasant symptoms, slightly different than those of Mr. Crosscheck at Caves Branch. Waiter at Roberts Grove very kindly called friend in town, who personally delivered Pepto Bismol, because our original supply was depleted.
NEXT: WRAP-UP
SNORKELING - Signed up for a Robert's Grove tour, which leaves from their own dock across the road. They decide where you're going based on weather conditions, and you don't find out the destination until departure time. We went to Laughing Bird Caye - a Natl. Park/World Heritage Site about 11 miles from Placencia - a smooth, short ride...nice variety of marine life, but not undiscovered - There were at least 4-5 other boats there. We had hoped to go to one of Robert's Grove's private islands or to the Barrier Reef itself, but Laughing Bird was just fine...and a good workout because our guide swam REALLY fast. Saw rays and lobsters, but no nurse sharks or whale sharks (which I think we missed by one day). Lunch was excellent...especially compared to the cave lunches at Caves Branch.
PLACENCIA - Some potential shopping possibilities, but sadly too hot to be fun. Robert's Groves had bicycles. Road is bumpy, but would have been a fun VERY early morning excursion, before the heat.
WENDY'S CREOLE RESTAURANT - Guidebooks rave about this dive in town. Worth a visit, but not a must-do.
TURTLE INN - Had an very good authentic Italian pizza dinner there...supposedly Francis' recipa...all you can eat (!)
MORE STOMACH ISSUES - Older Son came down with unpleasant symptoms, slightly different than those of Mr. Crosscheck at Caves Branch. Waiter at Roberts Grove very kindly called friend in town, who personally delivered Pepto Bismol, because our original supply was depleted.
NEXT: WRAP-UP
May 12th, 2009, 07:41 PM
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All in all, a really fun trip (way better than my first visit to Belize), though not for everyone. Most people we know say that the snake and robber threat alone would be a major deterrant, not to mention the heat.
But if you're an adventurous family, Belize is a close, easy destination for true jungle adventures and beach relaxation. The boys (all three) have been asking to return - an excellent endorsement, particularly from a college-bound teen.
But if you're an adventurous family, Belize is a close, easy destination for true jungle adventures and beach relaxation. The boys (all three) have been asking to return - an excellent endorsement, particularly from a college-bound teen.
Jun 11th, 2009, 08:35 AM
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OK - You're making me really nervous about the heat. I was in Cozumel for a week late June and it was hot but not unbearable. We're headed to Ambergris Caye late June and you're making me feel terrified of the heat.
Florida Keys in July heat was pretty unbearable -- hot, humid, running from rental car to our condo or restaurant. It was kinda crazy... Ambergris is showing high 80's.
Florida Keys in July heat was pretty unbearable -- hot, humid, running from rental car to our condo or restaurant. It was kinda crazy... Ambergris is showing high 80's.
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