Belated Trip Report April, 2016 Costa Rica

Old Dec 20th, 2016, 10:54 AM
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Belated Trip Report April, 2016 Costa Rica

Two week trip including Tortuguero, Bosque de Paz, Arenal and Punta Leona on the Pacific Coast.

Having had a wonderful time in a 2010 trip to Savegre and Naturalista we opted to head back for a longer stay seeing more of this country.

Again, worked with Sonia Nunez of Costa Rica Gateway using the 9 day Wildlife, Birding, Volcano and Jungle package as a starting point with time in the Caribbean and Pacific lowlands and Arenal Volcano area. Then, we added Bosque de Paz to experience birding in the higher elevations. Made our own flight arrangements thru Southwest Airlines flying from Baltimore to San Jose (ticket price included the departure tax on the return flight). Stayed at the La Quinta Hotel near the BWI airport on a stay, park and fly basis for the Wednesday nite before the flight.

We expected high humidity/temperatures in the lowlands yet cooler conditions in the higher elevations. We pursued the “layered” approach with t-shirts, light jackets, rain jackets and even rubber boots (unnecessary). Took the point-n-shoot digital cameras and a Canon T1i with a 100-400 mm zoom lens and a 70-300 zoom lens as a backup with the 18-70 lens. Took spare batteries, charger and extra memory cards and two pair of binoculars. Took “The Birds of Costa Rica” by Richard Garrigues and Robert Dean and “A Bird-Finding Guide to Costa Roca”. Also, took flashlight, note books, reading material and the normal meds and toiletries and a wash cloth.

The La Quinta Hotel was an excellent choice for the overnight stay and shuttle service to the airport. Had a very nice supper at Chili’s just a block or so from the hotel. Quickly processed thru check-in and security check at the airport. With the priority check-in via Southwest Airlines we were among the first persons to board aircraft and had choice of seats. Checked baggage was free. Flight crew had wonderful sense of humor. Five hour flight was uneventful. Light refreshments served. Arrived at Juan Santamaria Airport on time and quickly proceeded thru immigration, baggage claim and customs to see Juan Carlos awaiting our arrival. About a 45 minute drive to Hotel Bougainvillea. Lots of traffic.

After checking in we looked around hotel garden area seeing a minimum of twenty species of birds, some of which were new to us. Other birders were in the gardens as well. Darla spotted a huge frog at the edge of the one small pool. Purchased 7 postcards and stamps for like $12. That evening addressed such and dropped off at front desk next morning (took something like 3 weeks before arrival). Exchanged $100 for colonies at a rate of $1:519.30. Had supper in the lounge/bar, service was a bit slow. Ordered local dish (pork tenderloin, black beans/rice, tortilla, veggies, salso and a cake. Tasty and filling. Bought two bottles of water.

In morning checked out the gardens and ready for shuttle service. Van was a bit late as delayed at prior stop for others. Traveled thru city to meet tour bus taking us to Tortuguero area. Diego was guide and spoke to us on occasion as to sights on the way. Going thru Braulion Carrilo were impressed with natural beauty of area. High roadside vegetation negated views. In Guapiles had buffet breakfast at Selva Tropical Restaurant. Nice variety and tasty. Enclosed butterfly gardens with nice variety of colorful butterflies. Drove thru extensive acreage of banana plantations, stopped at Del Monte processing factory where we saw bunches coming into plant on overhead cables and then cut into smaller bunches with water used to cushion. Venders were selling drilled coconuts and showing rhino beetles. On to La Pavona dock (I think) for boat ride to Laguna Lodge via the canal and Tortuguero River.

Due to low water levels in the canal our driver undoubtedly went slower than normal. Enjoyed seeing various birds including ani, swallows, cattle egret, herons, and a red-winged blackbird. Once we entered the Tortuguero River the paced picked up with considerable spray. The rain forest closed in on the banks. The ride was about 1.5 hrs. About a mile or two past the town of Tortuguero we came to the docks for Laguna Lodge.

We were assigned room #83 at the end of a row of rooms near the Caribbean. Nice walkways existed but not direct from the dock to the room. The room had a king-size bed, nite stands, closet, bench, shelves, a basic bathroom, and a small oscillating ceiling fan. Our part of the front porch had two comfy chairs.

Shortly after checking into our room we had buffet lunch in the dining pavilion adjacent to the river. Quite a variety of dishes including pork, beef, potatoes, beans, veggies, tomato soup, juices, water and coffee. We dined with a young couple from Switzerland who came to be our table companions during the stay at Laguna. In the afternoon we boated down to Tortuguero for an hour or so visit. Not much to the town, mostly eateries, craft shops and small homes. We walked around and then sat near the dock watching river traffic and a few birds. Understand why the lodges bring tourists to town for the businesses but would not venture to town again. Back at the lodge we wandered around seeking birds. A bunch of the Montezuma orthopendola were nesting in a couple of tall palm trees and were quite noisey. Quite a variety of birds were to be seen including tanagers, seed eaters, and red-lored parrots.

For the 7 pm supper, we again had a buffet plus a pasta bar where one selected ingredients for the sauce and then the type of pasta desired. Tap water was not to be consumed but the lodge provided a water cooler for refilling water bottles. It was quite warm and humid unless one walked maybe 200’ to the Caribbean side beach where it was breezy and much cooler. This is the beach where green and other turtles deposited eggs. Darla walked in the sea and examined a huge coconut under one of the trees. A couple from England pointed out an iguana high up in a tree near our room. We sat on the front porch ‘til mosquitoes forced us in. The oscillating fan provided air movement and background noise drowning out noise from other rooms. We found out later frogs were the source of noise outside the room.

Arose early for a 530 am boat drive in the park via one of the side channels. First, traveled back to town to purchase tickets to the park. Diego bought them in mass. Our ride was prepaid but we still had to fork over $15 each for park admission. Across the river from Laguna Lodge we saw a two-toed sloth up a tree. Was all balled up sleeping away the day. Then up the side channel for an enjoyable game drive seeking numerous birds including kingfishers, bare-throated tiger-herons, various other herons, green macaws, great curassow , spectacled caimans, a gar fish, basilisks, iguanas, and monkeys, both howlers and white-faced capuchian and a quick glimpse of a river otter. In many places the channel was quite narrow so it made for close sightings. Experienced a shower or two but the boat operator provided all with bright blue lodge ponchos.

Back to the lodge for buffet breakfast. That morning personalized omelets were available. Plenty of fresh fruit particularly pineapple and mellon. About 0845 the regular boat ride seeing many of the same critters as earlier. Lunch was buffet. In the afternoon we could have gone on a kayak trip but we opted to stay at the lodge. Took a refreshing dip in the pool near our room. Had a cold beer ($4.50). While relaxing on chairs poolside we spotted various birds including a large flock of macaws, black-mandibled toucan and a collared aracari plus tanagers and flycatchers. A very large iguana occupied the tall rock structure providing the waterfall into the pool. Strolling around we spotted a common tody-flycatcher building a nest on a short shrub. Before the buffet supper Diego gave a short tour of the landscape talking about various trees, turtles, and showed us a red-eyed tree frog he found in the maize of trees. I struggled to get photos of a woodcreeper on tree trunk right behind the dining pavillion. After the buffet breakfast we carried bags to the dock for the trip back to the bus.

Lights out at 930 or so. At 2:30 were awoken by howler monkeys. Arose at 6, packed, had breakfast and spotted a slaty-tailed trogon in trees near the cabin. Uneventful boat ride back to the dock. There we learned we were a bit early for the bus so we ventured over to the small restaurant/general store for shade, refreshments and bathrooms. Purchased a 600 ml coke for 1,100 colonies. The wait was shorter than expected and it was wonderful to be back on the air-conditioned bus. In the meantime we enjoyed watching fellow tourist arrive and depart either to the lodges or to other parks. Saw a boat with anglers heading up the canal to fish. Diego said some 55 species inhabited the river/canal including snook. We motored over the bumpy gravel road seeing herds of beef cattle and several horses before hitting the macadam road and the banana plantations. Stopped around 12:30 at the Selva Tropical Restaurant for buffet lunch and p/u by vehicle taking us to Bosque De Paz lodge. Lunch was okay.

The 2+ hr or so drive took us through small towns, farms and pineapple plantations. Henry, our driver spoke some English. Windows were rolled down as, I think, there was a leak in the exhaust system and the fumes were noticeable. We began a considerable climb up the mountain passing numerous dairy farms and small groups of houses and shops. He excitedly pulled to the side showing us a guan in a nearby tree. We could see the outline but could not get a photo. Said he would gladly stop for birds and other picture taking. Road got steeper and steeper. Soon we came to a small side road with old sign, Bosque de Pas biological reserve. Arriel or Mario came out and opened the gate and as we drove maybe 100 yards to the reception/lodge.

After a quick check-in we walked past the main building (dining area, lounge and some rooms) to the next two-story building with rooms. We had #6 upstairs on the end. A group of 8 others mostly from the US with guide and bus driver were enjoying the presence of numerous hummingbirds swarming around feeders and flowers. Darla and I simply sat or walked around taking in the scene. A feeder station with mostly mellon slices attracted tanagers while across the small stream another area had cracked corn. Saw 2 pacas and chestnut-capped brush-finches.

The dinner bell was rung at 6:30 for the first of several excellent meals. Afterwards we retired to our room reading after getting ready for bed. Being at 4,400’ elevation, the air was a bit cooler than the lowlands and a blanket felt good. The night was quiet. The next morning I arose early and went out to look for birds. First species I spotted was a yellow-thighed thrush “fighting” its reflection in a glass window. And, the day began for us in regards to seeing various birds and the paca at the cracked corn area. Breakfast with a mix of fruit/mellon, scrambled eggs, sausage and of course beans and rice got us off to a good start. The big group was heading out for a nearby destination. Their guide spotted a pair of spangle-cheeked tanagers making a nest in a tree over hanging the reception building. Made for a great photo opportunity. A house wren and a black phoebe kept us entertained at the lodge porch. During the day it showered off and on.

We enjoyed fried, breaded tilapia, soup, mashed potatoes, mixed veggies and a spinach side dish (spinach, egg, maybe breading) and a flame desert. We made arrangements with our server Daniel for a bird walk the next morning. We spent the day exploring trails or simply sitting either at the roofed eating pavilion or at the dining building watching birds. Darla spotted a tiny toad, smaller than my thumb nail on the trail. It was difficult to spot birds in the forest. Mists moving across the mountain often resulted in rain for us so we sat under the overhanging eave. We walked out the entrance road and then up and down the macadam roar seeing numerous birds particular slate-throated redstarts. The two lane road was busy and necked down to one lane at the bridge. The adjacent stream looked inviting from an angling perspective and could have been a typical Pa mountain trout stream if one didn’t know we were in Costa Rico. Later in the room I realized we had decent photos of several unknown birds.

Had stuffed chicken breast, salad plate, black beans/rice, cassava, pineapple/tapioca pudding.

The next morning we enjoyed a two hour walk with Daniel and his spotting scope. We saw several species right at the lodge and on the road to the gate. Then, down the main highway. His spotting scope and lazer pointer were very handy. We saw something like 30 species in less than 2 hrs. Fee was $30 per person. From the balcony of the upstairs rooms we spotted several species in the trees between our building and the main lodge. Later in the day we took a major walk into the woods returning to watch the birds come to us. Mario showed us a ting frog hidden in a leaf in the orchid garden. A black guan flew into a tree overlooking the corn area across the stream. One of the group of eight retiring early from a major hike to the waterfalls had not seen the big bird so Darla went over and pointed it out to her.

At lunch time the lodge owner approached us quite apologetically and said an error had been made in laying in supplies and despite the intention of having a different meat for each meal he had to serve chicken again. We said that was not an issue (as usually fixed a different way anyway). He seemed quite relieved. Supper was great! Sent Beth message via e-mail. Heard howlers during the nite.

I got up extra early and photographed a chiriqui quail-dove at the corn feeder. Breakfast included a pancake-type dough pastry with honey. We hung around the lodge, walking out the lane to the gate seeing a couple interesting birds including a long-tailed silky-flycatcher that made for a nice photo, more swanson thrushes, etc. The coati kept us entertained climbing trees in search of bird nests. Also, I was able to get several photos of a trogon that eluded Daniel on our walk the day before. A party of three Asians arrived mid-morning. After lunch we paid our bill ($30 each for the bird walk, $10 for wine/beer and a $30 tip) and loaded on the van taking us to Arenal.

The van was clean and comfy. The driver spoke very little English but the ride was very pleasant. At least we spoke about the identification of different breeds of dairy cows on local farms. After awhile we could see Arenal Volcano in the distance and the closer we got to La Fortuna more and more hotels and attractions were noted. Surprisingly the main road to the turnoff to Arenal Observatory Lodge was unpaved gravel and quite the bumpy ride. The excitement continued to rise as we approached the paved entrance to the Arenal property. Into the reception area where we got our room card, map of the area and general orientation instructions including various activities available and prices. The map was very helpful not only showing the layout of AOL but trails with lengths and degree of difficulty. Our room #34 was of the Smithsonian series and was located just 3 doors down the walkway from the dining room building. Steps and ramp made for easy access to the room. Painted tiles with wildlife themes decorated each front porch. Once inside we noted two full-sized beds facing the patio looking directly to Arenal Volcano maybe 1.7 miles away. Large ceiling fan, plenty of hanging space/shelves and a very nice bathroom were noted. The sliding glass patio doors also had sliding screen doors for additional ventilation. The covered patio had a small table and 2 comfy chairs. A small grassy area bordered by flowering bushes gave a feeling of our own lawn. Neighboring patios were step down or up with a picket fence giving some idea of privacy. Immediate adjacent to the patios was landscaping with shrubs and bushes and then forests. Laundry was available (same day service if turned in before 9 am) with pants $3 and shirts $2 and ½ the rate if just for drying.

Room fronts and walkways were adjacent to a plantation of Hondurian pines with vines and other vegetation providing great habitat for birds we were to see. After settling in we went up to the observation deck next to the dining room. Slices of watermelon and other foods were being enjoyed by various birds almost at eye level. Woodcreepers, several species of tanagers, banaquit and others were seen. Down the hill just a bit was another feeder where whole bananas were placed for larger birds such as guan, . We noted groups of coati here and there. In the reception area besides coolers of various drinks, shelves of snacks and reference literature were in abundance. The adjacent room had seating for watching tv, playing checkers and enjoying the woodburner. Guest rooms were on the second floor. We walked down the path behind the reception area thru the pine stand and across the hanging bridge with sign limiting capacity to 5 guests at a time. On the other side nicely maintained walkways led to the building housing the museum, game room, observation tower and more guest rooms, to the swimming pool, to the spa, and to more guest rooms scattered about. Also, a couple of trails led off into the forest. Everywhere we looked were birds of various species including flycatchers and oropendula in nesting mode.

Near supper time we noted a large number of guests on the observation deck awaiting sunset which was spectacular. An hour before supper was happy hour with most drinks two for one. Armoldo was our server with 17 years there. While we knew our meals at AOL were prepaid we did not know we could order anything off the menu. He walked us thru the process. I had the blackberry juice and Darla had the passion fruit juice which she really liked. Plus, I took advantage of the 2 for 1 deal with two glasses of merlot wine. We were very pleased not only with the level of service but also the quality and quantity of the food. Parmersian chicken, roasted potatoes, mixed veggies, and rolls with strawberry ice cream. After supper we retired to the room to get ready for bed, look at pictures from the day and read.

Breakfast buffet had nice variety of dishes.

The next morning after checking out birds at the feeder we gathered at the reception area for the free 2 hour guided walk. Some thirty guests including young kids were assembled. Our guide headed off across the hanging bridge and then to the trail past the museum. Darla and I made an effort to stay in the front to avoid a hearing issue. Stopping at select trees the guide covered interesting facts. Showed us a small frog in the pond, the colorful eucalyptus trees, and then onto the waterfalls. We ascended to the waterfalls for a quick picture and climbed back up. Took awhile for all to go thru the process. Just before the other hanging bridge we came upon 3 riders leading their horses up the trail. At that point the guide pointed out an eyelash pit viper curled up in some tree roots along the ditch. Given the size of our group seeing birds was basically out of the question. Crossing the swinging bridge we walked a bit further ‘til we came to the stream and farm buildings where a tractor-pulled wagon took us back to near the spa area.

Had a wonderful lunch at the restaurant. More blackberry juice, house salad, huge grilled porkchop with rice/beans, fresh veggies, and fried planktain with a piece of cake for desert. In the afternoon checked out more of the area, looked for birds at the feeders and enjoyed time on the patio. A common tody-flycatcher frequented the bushes as did a lizard with a bluish tail. At supper Darla had a tasty beef tenderloin dinner while I had the spaghetti bolonguise. The next morning we and one other guest had a guided bird walk for two hours with the naturalist who led the tour the morning before. Starting at the observation deck and then moving towards the reception area, across the hanging bridge, around the museum, onward towards the spa and other rooms, down a trail and then back across the area near the spa we moved using his spotting scope for distant birds we saw some 55 species. Heard a few we could not observe. After breakfast we explored areas on our own including one trail where we not only saw the white-faced monkeys but lineated woodpeckers after a careful stalk. Realized we both were experiencing tummy issues. Took immodium and Tylenol. Took it easy for rest of day. Continued to add birds to our list simply by looking around at the patio or front of the cabin. I had soup for supper while Darla abstained from eating.

Shied away from food for breakfast. I think I had toast with jelly. Walked around a bit and then took it easy on the patio adding new birds including a pale-billed woodpecker pair on the one dead tree. Packed, paid the bar bill (roughly $5 for the wine) and made ready for the drive to Punta Leona.

A female driver and her partner arrived on time and off we went. We let her know of the stomach issue and she offered to stop any time we felt necessary. On the way she stopped and showed us a three-toed sloth asleep up a tree near the road. Roughly a 4 hr drive stopping once for coffee break for them and opportunity for us to use restrooms and check out gift shop. As we approached the Tarcoles River she asked if we wanted to see the crocs from the bridge. She pulled into little gift shop/coffee stand as we walked across bridge seeing several crocs below. Heavy traffic, narrow walkway on the bridge and several other tourists made for interesting walking. Moving on we had great view of Pacific Ocean and then entrance to Hotel Punta Leona. Drive to the actual Hotel was couple miles passing thru farmland, past private homes, etc.

By then we were basically tired. Reception person provided maps, drawing directions to our room, and telling us of various amenities available. Was gracious enough to call Armondo Orlando as to birding walk the next morning. Arranged for vehicle to take us to Selvamar room #914 in the Panama area. Our little half cottage was probably the furthest from the reception area but convenient to the one restaurant and pool. Got to room and unpacked. Room had air-conditioner, two beds, hanging area, shelving, chest of drawers and mini-fridge. Bathroom was okay but heavy door swung into bath which was a bit crowded.

Neither of us felt super good so we settled in for a nite’s sleep. Sometime after midnite I awoke to find the air-conditioner was off, the room was very hot and I was extremely thirsty. A long drink from the chilled bottle of water really hit the spot. We were up well before six and walked down to the reception area to pick up our box breakfast and meet our birding guide. Neither of us was interested in the breakfast—a juice box, banana and some kind of sandwich. We explained to Armondo as to the tummy issue and asked if we could stop at a local market to purchase bottles of water for the walk. Being from the Tarcoles area he stopped at a local market where I purchased two bottles of water. Then, a short drive to the Carara NP office for purchasing entrance tickets ($10 for each of us and $2 for Armondo). Right away we began seeing birds including trogons and macaws. His intent was to drive down the road to small parking lot and trail into the forest (same trail I read about in the guide book). He felt this trail was one of the best in the northern pacific area. Conditions were very dry. The trail was well defined and low gradient. Every so often he spotted a bird for us to consider. Even a northern ghost bat hanging on the underside of a shrub with considerable fronds. Another guide and couple were in the area and we often leapfrogged sharing sightings in the process. Even though I was sipping water, I knew I was under the effects of dehydration as I began to experience “being in a tunnel when I spoke” and had some dizziness. About 11 am I told Armondo we would have to end the walk. I know he was disappointed as he had another trail he wanted to hit as part of our full day birding experience. I gladly paid him his $100 fee. He dropped us off back at the reception area. We saw over 30 species.

We mentioned to the reception staff as to the air-condition not working and of our stomach issue. They suggested we visit the first aid office a short distance away towards the beach. There staff member Wendy and an administrative member Roosevelt checked us out. They gave each of us pills to take right then and also later in the day. And, strongly suggested we drink Gatorade and Serum. Roosevelt then took us to the supermarket also nearby. Told us to each drink a bottle of Gatorade or a sports drink and then 2 bottles each of Serum as we were dehydrated. Our purchased amounted to $34.00. Next he drove us back to our room suggesting we have soup for next meal. At dinner time at Caracetas and Grill Restaurant I had a bowl of soup with veggies. And, we continued to work on sipping the drink. The air-conditioner was working and the room felt comfy.

The next day we walked around the place, having a light breakfast. Strolled over to the beach and elsewhere on the property photographing birds and the like. Tried to visit the butterfly garden but found it closed. Mentioned such to reception staff who said they would have it opened in a few minutes. We waited around but it never opened. (as part of response to TA lodge review we learned it was closed for the season but for some reason reception staff were not aware of such). Also, while strolling around particularly along the main street we noticed water being used on grassy areas. Smelled like sewer water. Took wrong turn back to room. Lots of extra walking. Spotted grooved-bill ani and wrens in the vicinity as well as scarlet macaws in higher trees. One maintenance worker seemed delighted in pointing out a squirrel-like critter to us. The one walk to the other end of the beach resulted in seeing a northern water-thrush and a colorful crab that would not fully expose itself from hole in sidewalk. Not too many people on the beach and often those there were under palm trees with picnic baskets and the like. Found a pair of woodpeckers tending a nest in one tree right next to the walkway at the beach.

Upon returning to the room we saw a small snake scurry thru the plants too fast for me to photograph. While Darla was inside I sat on the bench and saw another snake following the same path under the grate across the shallow ditch. Was able to photo head before it too headed off. We enjoyed a swim in the pool and laid on lounge chairs watching iguanas and the like.

Walked down to the reception area for ride to Tarcoles River and the boat ride. Victor Hugo (driving a BMW van) picked us up and had cold bottled water for us. Maybe a 20-25 minute drive to the dock. Crocodile Man Tour boat and driver were ready. We were only passengers. Saw numerous species of birds, lizards, crocs, plus cattle along the river. Took us into side channel to see mangrove trees and very close to the ocean. Added several birds including mangrove hummingbird, brown pelican, laughing falcon, roseate spoonbill, willet, and whimbrel to list. Saw interesting tiger-faced crab on tree. All-in-all a very nice experience.

At supper I had a chicken patty sandwich and a few items from the buffet including a piece of orange pie. Darla passed on having food. We still were under the influence of whatever. Slept well. I ate a bit for breakfast. While Darla was tidying up in the room I sat on the porch bench and looked for birds. Saw a squirrel cuckoo, a toucan a woodcreeper and others nearby. Also, noted the shuttle van parked next to our room at the end of hourly runs. Made for a short carry of luggage later. Eventually we packed up bags for departing. Just before heading over to the van it began to rain and really poured. Got to reception area, settled bill and waited on van to San Jose. Juan Carlos came and off to the Bouganvillea. About an hour plus ride to San Jose but maybe another 45 minutes to the hotel.

There we walked around a bit after a major rain event. Bought pills at gift shop (kinda like alkaseltzer). For supper I ordered the same meal I had the first nite and Darla had a bowl of soup with veggies and a ginger ale. The next morning after a so-so buffet breakfast we looked around in the garden for birds. Added yellow warbler to our list. Then, off to the airport. Didn’t take too long to process thru check-in, security and the like. Bought pills like the ones we had at Punta Leona. At our gate we read and did suduko. Were in the first few people to board and selected first row of seats. The extra legroom was nice and our carry-on items were in bin overhead. Flight crew was not quite as humorous as first crew but okay. Enjoyed water/coke and light snacks.

Arrived at BWI on about 7 and in less than 30 minutes processed thru immigration, baggage claim and customs. Called hotel for shuttle and was told which door. Walked outside and there was the shuttle. Back to hotel in matter of minutes, into car and on the way. The GPS unit got us on I-83. Stopped at Sheetz at Duncannon for a soda. Got home little after mid-nite.

Given the tummy issue we took fewer notes during the stay at Punta Leona and memory recall leaves much to be desired. So, some detail might be missing.

A great trip. Dozens and dozens of birds, many new to us. Did reviews of lodging on TA back in May, 2016. Would like to return again.

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