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Another wonderful trip to CR!

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Another wonderful trip to CR!

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Old Jul 13th, 2009, 04:17 PM
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p, I need to learn to post photos. And I need to learn to edit! I took over 1,000 pics on this trip. My husband does a great imitation of me on vacation, "Ooh, babe look at that." "Babe, can you hold on while I take a picture?!"
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Old Jul 13th, 2009, 04:28 PM
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Sometime during the night things cool off; we have our ceiling fan cranked on high. Finally we can get under the covers! We wake up every morning to howler monkeys close by, but we never see them on the property. Every day around 5:00 a.m. comes the howler alarm clock!

This is the day that we have to leave, and we are so sorry to say goodbye to Tortuguero. Truth be told I didn't even know if I would like it here, but all the wildlife and great service blew me away. We would definitely go back, and I think it would be hard for us to try another lodge. Tortuga Lodga has been so good to us.

Instead of a big breakfast, we hit the coffee/muffin/cookie bar and then go to checkout. The airstrip or "airport" if you can call it that is directly across from the lodge - about 30 seconds by boat. You can literally watch for your plane to land and then head over across the canal via boat. We see our plane come in, and several CRE reps come along to see us off. They stay with us as we're getting checked in. The airport is basically just a little open air building with nothing in it - one room, but the big news is they are installing a bathroom!

The airstrip is just a path away from the beach, and a couple of guides stroll over to see if there's anything good on the beach. They yell for us to come. We know it must be something amazing! We ditch our bags and run down the path and come out on the beach - fun to finally see it! The waves are really rough, and there in the surf is a pair of mating turtles. It's funny because there are tourists all snapping away with their cameras. No privacy for turtles! The waves are so strong that the two eventually get tossed up on the shore - well, finally we get some pics, but not exactly the ones I imagined! One of the guides says that "nature has truly given you a gift." It just strikes me as funny!

The guides say we have to run back to our plane, so we do. There the pilot (!) is loading the bags under the plane, kind of like you do with a bus. We had been told there were strict luggage weight requirements, but they don't weigh any bags - just six of us on the flight. They ask our names, check us off the list, and off we go back to San Jose! No security, nothing - easy as can be. Our next stop will be Xandari, and we're looking forward to it.
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Old Jul 13th, 2009, 04:44 PM
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Awww those poor turtles! I can't wait to see those pics...I think Sounds like you really loved Tortuguero, I really have to get there soon. Looking forward to your thoughts on Xandari.
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Old Jul 13th, 2009, 05:59 PM
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tully, you would really love it since you're a BdC girl!

So after a quick 25-minute flight we are back in San Jose - can't believe how quickly we make it back. We land at the Sansa airport which is right next to SJO. The plane lands out on the tarmac, and we walk to the building - it's 70 degrees and sunny - what a temperature drop. We can't wait to meet our driver and head off to beautiful Xandari.

We usually stay at the Peace Lodge, but since the earthquake damaged it, we booked Xandari and are curious to see if we'll like it.

We walk through the terminal and notice they have built a little store/cafe since we were there last - you can buy cold drinks and little pre-made sandwiches, etc. now. We reach the front of the airport and no driver is there! We wait a while, and finally I decide to call Xandari to see what's up. There's a very helpful airport employee that offers to get us a cab, a phone, whatever we need - we opt for the phone. Xandari answers and says the driver is stuck in traffic so just to hang on a few minutes more. Bummer. I decide to go to the store to buy a couple of fruit juices. We've become addicted to the Tropical brand - mango and mixed fruits are our two favorites.

I notice that now there is a security rope between me and the little store. I ask the "guard" if I can go to the store, and he says that I'll have to go through security. Interesting since I didn't even have to go through security to board the plane! Security consists of his wanding me and unclasping the security rope. I get to the store and pick out a couple of drinks and as I'm buying them the helpful guy comes to get me to say our driver has arrived! We head outside and can't get over the awesome change in temperature; we set off down the road for the 15-20 minute ride to Xandari.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 03:45 AM
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It's interesting to see the Alajuela/San Jose area - the only place in CR we've seen bars on the windows. Things are close together and pretty congested. We drive along and soon we are going up, up, up and away from the city. We arrive at the gates of Xandari, and a guard unlocks them so we can drive inside.

Xandari is another property that has its service mastered. As we are sent to reception, our luggage is whisked off to our room. At reception, we are greeted with fruit drinks (a theme for this trip!) and sit down to get the intro to the property. As we're sitting there, a man comes along and introduces himself as the owner, Broudy - really nice man. He's an architect by trade and has designed this place along with his wife who is an artist. He wanted to design something beautiful for the world, and when he found this land, he knew it was the perfect spot. He tells us we're in a great room, and that we should go check out the new pool they've just finished.

A golf cart whisks us away to our room, and wow are we impressed! It's huge - over 800 square feet, decorated in a really contemporary style and has floor to ceiling windows all the way around with a fabulous view of the city below. Lush landscaping and gardens and trails are everywhere. The bathroom has both a tub and a separate shower, and we have a frig stocked with juices, soft drinks, etc. all free. Lots of nice little touches like books and robes. We have huge sliding glass doors that open onto a nice patio - two big lounge chairs, as well as a table and chairs are out there. I love a good view, and this is one of the best I've seen. Frankly, I think it's going to be hard for me to leave this room - ever!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 04:01 AM
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The weather is so beautiful that we open up all the doors and louvered windows to enjoy it. Even though there are floor to ceiling windows, our villa is behind a locked gate and high on a hill, so it offers complete privacy. I decide to take a bath while my husband takes a shower - bye-bye to the layer of Tortuga grunge. After the bath, I grab one of their little robes and decide to sit out on the patio to enjoy the view. While I'm out there, a tiny green hummingbird zooms over my head and into our room! It's flying all over the place! We realize that it can't figure out how to get out. The ceiling is so high and has a layer of windows on top that don't open. The bird keeps repeatedly banging into the glass. We're worried it will really injure itself; after several minutes we call the front desk. They tell us it happens all the time and that eventually the hummingbird will get tired so we can catch it. What?! Finally the bird comes to a rest, and I sneak up on it to catch it. No dice. Once again it starts zooming around the room in a panic. Poor thing - more banging, banging, banging into the glass. Finally we get some towels and try to guide it out. Hurrah - success! At this point, we decide to head out onto Xandari's property to hike the trails and find the waterfalls. There are 5 waterfalls on the property, as well as orchards, an organic garden, and chickens that lay eggs for the restaurant. Tons of lush flowers and plants everywhere and a greenhouse full of orchids. This is a beautiful place.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 04:07 AM
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We hike around and go to 4 of the waterfalls. They really are quite pretty - the 4th one is pretty large and the others are smaller. We never see anyone else on the property, and it seems like we have it all to ourselves. We decide to hike back to go see the new pool. There is some construction going on near our villa as they add on a new villa and complete the landscaping and lighting around the new pool. They are really quiet - we never hear any noise from the building. We see Broudy again - he seems very actively involved in the property which is great.

The new pool area is gorgeous. The property has two other pools that are sort of small rectangular lap pools; this one is bigger and more rounded and has a hot tub and a beautiful view of the city. We vow to come back that night to enjoy the hot tub and decide to head off to the restaurant for lunch.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 04:49 AM
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Wow, the restaurant - the view is absolutely gorgeous. Xandari is set high in the hills and looks out over everything; it's all really green and lush. We order homemade guacamole and pico de gallo with homemade chips. All the chips in CR are very thick, not like the ones here at home - they are really good. Of course we get frosty Imperials - why can't we get these at home? I think Imperial could make a killing in the states! For lunch, I have fish tacos, and they're good. Everything at the restaurants seems very fresh. The service is nice. The server looks perplexed when I ask for ice water. No one in CR seems to serve ice in their drinks. They always ask, "Ice?" And I say, "Si, hielo por favor." Sometimes I get a cup of ice, and here I get an entire bowlful!

After lunch, we head back to the room for a nap. After being on the go so much, it's nice to slow down and relax. This is truly paradise.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 05:24 AM
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After the nap, we head out to explore the grounds some more. We had originally considered doing something off property, but we've already done the Doka Coffee Tour and the La Paz Waterfall Gardens on previous trips. We're happy with our decision to hang out at home so to speak. Xandari does feel like a home; they even provide you with plates, full silverware, wine glasses, etc. in the room in case you want to get room service.

We hike out to see waterfall #5; it's a pretty easy flat hike and not as steep as the earlier one. We also end up walking by the little chicken coop and see chickens, a rooster (more on that later!), turkeys, and lots of little chicks. There's a greenhouse full of herbs and fresh veggies. As we're walking, we notice the sky growing darker and darker, and we know that rain is in our future.

As we're walking we see some beautiful birds - one I don't recognize, but it's bright blue and gorgeous. I check out a bird book and discover it's a blue-crowned Mot Mot. At this point, we've seen most of the property so we head back to the villa to relax and eventually head out to dinner.

Our villa is quite a hike from the restaurant/reception area, about 10 minutes which isn't much, but in the dark it kind of spooks us! As we are seated, the skies open up and it begins to pour. Huge lightning storm with thunder that makes you jump. The open air restaurant starts getting drenched. They offer to have us move, but it's kind of fun to sit out here and watch the storm unfold. They scoot our table back so we'll stay dry, and then they come out with blankets for everyone! Isn't that awesome? I just thought it was so thoughtful. The dinner menu has lots of vegetarian choices and some pricier entrees. We're kind of leaning towards getting some comfort food. Black bean soup sounds good, and we wonder if they'll make us grilled cheese, and they agree. We also split a small salad, which is delicious and full of really fresh ingredients. Ah, so relaxing... Looks like no hot tub for us tonight, so we head off to their little media room to borrow a movie.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 06:49 AM
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Xandari has a little media room with a t.v. and lots of VHS movies. For DVDs, you have to ask at the front desk. My husband goes to get the list, and they tell him that we can't take the DVD to our room and that we have to watch it there. Bummer. We're paying for a beautiful villa but we have to watch the movie in that little room. We decide to give it a pass and just head back to enjoy our view. Still pouring rain, but we can see the view from our awesome king size bed. I decide I'm never leaving this room - lol.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 07:09 AM
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Volcanogirl, what a great trip. We are flying from Houston to CR and going to LI on the 26th and coming home on the 31st of July. After reading your posts, I am excited, yet nervous. Do we need to book tours ahead of time? How much money should we bring to spend on meals? Do they take credit cards for tours, or is cash better? Do you negotiate price with drivers? Oh my, I feel so dumb.... Any help is appreciated for a newbie. We are looking at the waterfall, the hot springs, zipline, although I have heard it is difficult to stop--I am scared of this one, the hanging bridges, and possibly the Cano Negro tour. Really want a fun, relaxing trip with some adventure thrown in.
thanks,
Holly
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 07:40 AM
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Thanks for all the info, sounds like your trip was fabulous, I might copy you on our next one
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 08:39 AM
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Hi, holly - I'm jealous you're going to CR. I'm already having withdrawals! No need to be nervous; CR is very user-friendly, and they love American tourists. The only tours I book ahead of time are things that I'm afraid might sell out. There's a beautiful hot springs in Arenal/La Fortuna called Eco Termales that serves a nice dinner in the evenings; they limit entry to 100 people so I book that ahead. I also booked our rafting trip ahead. Most things you can book when you get there. All of our hotels have offered to book things for us when we've arrived. If you book your tours online or through your hotel, using a credit card is easy. Our driver prices have been mandated to us. Sometimes I compare costs to other drivers, and they are consistently the same. One may be $140 vs. another that's $150, but they usually seem pretty consistent. We always get our drivers through our hotels.

Regarding stopping on the ziplines, ours wasn't difficult to stop; we used our hand above our head to push down on the line, and that stopped us. Some others have a hand brake. I've heard not to go in the rain because that gives you extra speed, but we had good weather when we did it. I think everyone is nervous about it, but we had fun. Ours had some surprise rappels that we didn't know about, and we ended up thinking that was the best part! I think you'll have a great time.

Feel free, owl. I get my best ideas from this board!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 08:47 AM
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We drift off to sleep, and all of a sudden there's a really loud "cock-a-doodle-do!" that startles me. It's 3:30 a.m. and it's either that blasted rooster on the other property or one nearby. My husband of course sleeps through the whole thing. I thought roosters only did this at sunrise! It's not just once, it keeps doing it over and over and over. I finally get up and close the doors and all the louvered windows, and that seems to do the trick! The temps are cool and enjoyable here.

We wake up and head to Xandari's beautiful restaurant for breakfast. Continental breakfast is included, but you can also order something heartier for an extra cost. The continental menu is really extensive. I get a bagel and also yogurt with granola and fresh fruit. Mr. volcano gets homemade muffins, ham, and a Tica Mama which is an awesome fresh fruit smoothie. Like a batido - those yummy CR fresh fruit and milk drinks that are so good! The fresh fruit is amazing. The ham is like sandwich meat which seems weird to me, but he loves it and polishes off every bite.

We head to check out and everything goes smoothly. This hotel charges you ahead of time, so everything is paid for. I should also mention that they give you one free airport transfer. The second one will cost us $16 which seems fair.

Our driver arrives and off we go to the airpot. Very sad to go but knowing we'll be back.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 08:48 AM
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I am really enjoying your report Volcanogirl. Have not had a chance to read it all but you are awesome!!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 08:56 AM
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Volcanogirl - if you had 10 nights in CR - for your first time... what would you do/go???

And yes, photos please!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 09:15 AM
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volcanogirl: sounds like a great trip. I am in the stages of planning our next trip to CR. We are again taking a nephew who is 14 and want to do a trip different from his brother. Last trip we did Arenal and BDC. We are debating between MA and BDC but now your description of Tortuguero sounds interesting. This nephew is a water kid but the turtles have always been fascinating to me. We would be going in April and I am not sure if that is a good time in Tortuguero.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 09:15 AM
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We arrive at the airport about 3 hours ahead of time. We missed a flight once, so now we're just paranoid! One thing to note: If you go to CR, you have to pay a $26 exit fee to leave the country. When you enter the airport, there's a desk to the right where you can pay. They take cash and credit cards both. We saw a family of 4, and the dad didn't believe they really had to pay; they thought it was a scam. Someone doesn't read their Fodor's board. They kept saying, "Go ask someone else. That can't be right!" Yep, as weird as it seems, it's right. We pay and they give you a form to fill out. You have to have the form filled out before you get in the check-in line. We breeze through checkout. My dh travels a lot so we get to go in the short line - yea, for dh! Then we go through the custom's/immigration line. Note that if you have kids with you, you can go through a separate line that's sometimes shorter. Everything runs smoothly, and we head off to the gate to wait. There are some nice gift shops in the airport where you can buy coffee, hand-carved wooden bowls, and things along those lines. It's a good way to kill time. The options for lunch are pretty funny - Burger King!, Schlotzky's (sp?), Papa John's pizza, and Cinnabon - all very Americanized which is kind of funny. There's also a deli. We opt for Schlotzky's and just relax and read while we wait for our plane.

One weird thing about CR is that they will not let you bring bottled water on board, even water you purchase once you're past security. We see them confiscate it from a number of people. I know that I will be selected for special screening. I have no idea why - I'm just about as girl-next-door as you can get. I don't think I look very menacing, and I smile a lot - maybe that's suspicious? For some reason, I always get yanked aside. This time I have my back to the lady, and I think I'm going to get to board, and then I hear, "Miss, Miss?!" Yep, it's me! As always! She's very nice and assures me that's it's all random. Finally we get on the plane and are soon back in the states. We breeze through customs and immigration - literally 5 minutes, and my bag is the third one off the plane. DH's comes right after, and off we go dreaming of our next trip to CR. And we will be back!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 09:17 AM
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We arrive at the airport about 3 hours ahead of time. We missed a flight once, so now we're just paranoid! One thing to note: If you go to CR, you have to pay a $26 exit fee to leave the country. When you enter the airport, there's a desk to the right where you can pay. They take cash and credit cards both. We saw a family of 4, and the dad didn't believe they really had to pay; they thought it was a scam. Someone doesn't read their Fodor's board. They kept saying, "Go ask someone else. That can't be right!" Yep, as weird as it seems, it's right. We pay and they give you a form to fill out. You have to have the form filled out before you get in the check-in line. We breeze through checkout. My dh travels a lot so we get to go in the short line - yea, for dh! Then we go through the custom's/immigration line. Note that if you have kids with you, you can go through a separate line that's sometimes shorter. Everything runs smoothly, and we head off to the gate to wait. There are some nice gift shops in the airport where you can buy coffee, hand-carved wooden bowls, and things along those lines. It's a good way to kill time. The options for lunch are pretty funny - Burger King!, Schlotzky's (sp?), Papa John's pizza, and Cinnabon - all very Americanized which is kind of funny. There's also a deli. We opt for Schlotzky's and just relax and read while we wait for our plane.

One weird thing about CR is that they will not let you bring bottled water on board, even water you purchase once you're past security. We see them confiscate it from a number of people. I know that I will be selected for special screening. I have no idea why - I'm just about as girl-next-door as you can get. I don't think I look very menacing, and I smile a lot - maybe that's suspicious? For some reason, I always get yanked aside. This time I have my back to the lady, and I think I'm going to get to board, and then I hear, "Miss, Miss?!" Yep, it's me! As always! She's very nice and assures me that's it's all random. Finally we get on the plane and are soon back in the states. We breeze through customs and immigration - literally 5 minutes, and my bag is the third one off the plane. DH's comes right after, and off we go dreaming of our next trip to CR. And we will be back!
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 09:29 AM
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Oops, I got a double post for some reason - sorry about that.

Hi, Mom - Let's see. I would definitely go to Arenal because it's my favorite spot. It's good for about 4 nights. They have the volcano, rafting, the Cano Negro tour to see wildlife, a beautiful waterfall where you can swim, ziplines like Sky Trek, Hanging Bridges, and natural hot springs like Eco Termales and Tabacon. We like the Lost Iguana, but there are a lot of good hotels in this area.

If you want a beautiful beach and a place that's easy to get around with lots of restaurants, Manuel Antonio is popular. This area is very Americanized, and the animals are the kind that can open a bag of potato chips! Buena Vista Villas, Tulemar Bungalows, and Si Como No are popular.

For something wild and lots of wildlife, I'd go to Bosque del Cabo on the Osa or Tortuga Lodge in Tortuguero. Not much in the way of air conditioning in these spots, but we think it's worth it. At BdC, you can't run a blow dryer or anything like that, but it has the best wildlife I've ever seen and beautiful ocean views.

People who are into birding like Monteverde - much cooler in this part of CR and in the cloud forest. We actually had to wear sweatshirts and fleece jackets at night, and our hotel had the fireplace going.

If you want posh and over the top, spend a couple of nights at the Peace Lodge or Xandari - both fairly close to SJO so good for the end of the trip. At the Peace Lodge, we got to hand feed hummingbirds, and they have beautiful waterfalls.

I think you have to pick what appeals most to you and your family since everyone is different, but I think it's hard to go wrong!
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