I just returned from 12 days in Costa Rica. We had a fabulous time. I thought I'd share a few observations since this forum was so helpful in planning the trip.

We had a van take us from the airport in Alajuela - $100 for 4 people - easy 3 hour trip. We stayed 3 nights in Arenal Paraiso - seems like the place is making a transition from rustic to resort. I liked it a lot but probably wouldn't return as it becomes more oriented toward the "high end" and tour groups. The hike to the waterfall behind their property was great (very steep), the La Fortuna waterfall was also cool (I'd skip the hike on the gravel road to get there - take your car or a taxi) and Hanging Bridges was beautiful if a little pricey. The volcano finally did cooperate the last night at 5 am and was spectacular.

The road to the Pacific beachers from Arenal truly is atrocious. One 10 KM stretch is virtually all pot holes. We eventually made it to Las Tortugas hotel in Playa Grande. We loved it there - had the beach almost to ourselves, while Tamarindo seemed relatively crowded. Seeing the leatherback sea turtle laying her eggs in the moonlight, and finding a few hatchlings scarmbling to the sea at 5:30 am were highlights.

We also liked El Mono Azul near Manuel Atonio park - very ecologically aware. The 3 hour tour in the park was great, though the area is crowded and the guide was polite and very knowledgable but maybe just a bit burned out on giving tours.

I loved Hacienda Baru. We spent a night camping deep in the jungle and saw an incredible array of wildlife (toucans, poison dart frogs, and monkeys inparticular) and giant forest trees. Our guide was fabulous - all the people at Hacienda Baru were very friendly and helpful. The beach is just a short walk, almost deserted and very beautiful.

The whitewater rafting with Rios Tropicales was exciting. Most of us went into the Pacuare at some point but that was part of the fun. The guides were charming and safety was well thought about. We stayed at Hotel Don Carlos for nights to facilitate the rafting trip and it was luxurious by my standards.

We did some travel by car rental and some by vans and public bus - it all worked well. The public bus for the 3 hour trip through the mountains from San Isidro to San Jose was modern and comfortable - for $3/person!

The food was relatively inexpensive and good without being spectacular. You can get by without any Spanish but we enjoyed struggling with it and I think it made it easier to get to know people. someof the guides don't speak much English but that isn't a big problem.

What a beautiful country. Pura Vida.

John

John, thanks for the trip report. Glad to hear you had a great time. I know exactly what you mean about the drive around lake Arenal - it is not fun. But it is just the stretch between Arenal and Tilaran that is bad, the rest is actually pretty good.

John- excellent trip report, sounds like you had a great time! I too have made the drive around Lake Arenal and yes there is a pretty bad stretch at one point. And your rainforest time
in Hacienda Baru sounds amazing, I am going to have to do that sometime. I have also stayed at the Mono Azul, are they still rehabilitating sloths?


Thanks for your report...any plans to go back?!

Pura vida!

Patty

Iza - You are right about the road to Tilaran. The rest of the road was pretty good. In general the roads were better than I'd expected, and I saw a number of work crews doing improvements. They are still doing the work with sloths there. A group called Kids Sving the Rainforests (started by a nine yr. old girl) works out of Mono Azul. Their current project is installing "monkey ladders" to help the endangered Mono titi (squirrel monkey).

I'd love to go back some day - but then there are so many interesting places in the world!

John

John- Sounds like a wonderful trip. We are planning a surf trip to CR next month and are thinking about staying at the Hotel Las Tortugas in Playa Grande. How did you like the hotel? We are also considering Hotel Bula Bula, did you see it at all? Thanks.

Las Tortugas seems to be quite popular, it is now apparently owned by a fellow from France. A friend of mine in CR, an American who has been living there for a number of years,had breakfast there just last week.
His comment was that it is now a very 'gringo' place.
He emailed a copy of a 'notice' that is posted on their office wall which stated that if anyone left anything unattended for 'more than 3 seconds' on the beach or anywhere else, Costa Ricans would steal it. A charming sentiment...... it disgusted me enough that I cancelled tenative plans to stay there this November.
My reservation is now with Villa Baula,which is about a mile or so south of Las Tortugas, close to the estuary which separates Tamarindo and Playa Grande. A better option for a genuine Tico experience.

Jerry

I stayed at Las Tortugas earlier this year in a 'rancho' when the hotel was owned by gringos. I loved it. I thought the restaurant and service was very good and we enjoyed the rancho for sitting out w/morning coffee or evening cocktails. It's as close to the beach as you will get at Playa Grande. I would not be put off by a warning sign to protect your valuables from theft as this happens all over CR and it is a courtesy that the hotel is posting it for the guests. It should NOT be taken as a reflection of that particular hotel.

I have found that if you leave anything unnattended in most places or countries,(here in Steamboat Springs as well), chances are good its not going to be there when you return. So don't leave things unattended! Problem solved.